Dual MC-E Light- What do you think?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Dual MC-E Light- What do you think?

    Finished it up early Sunday morning and ridden with it two nights since. What do you think? I'll add beamshots soon.. The specs are below:

    - Dual mc-es wired 2s2p2s
    -ims 20 reflectors
    -bFlex driver
    -500mA per die on high
    -14.4 v 4800mAh li-poly battery
    -TIG welded aluminum housing
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  2. #2
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
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    Cool.....it's Groucho Marx!

    JZ

    Last edited by Jim Z in VT; 03-10-2009 at 07:30 PM.
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  3. #3
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
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    Wow, That is seriously cool!!!

    What the heck are all the parts? ie. What is holding the reflectors in? Where did the heat sinks come from? What is the Al housing tubing from?

    how does it go for heat?

    oh, and most importantly BEAM SHOTS!!!!!

    edit: And is that a deans connector with some kind of rubber boot over the end of it??

  4. #4
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    Very cool.

  5. #5
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    It's 1.125" .125 wall 6061 Tubing bored out. The whole thing is held together with a series of ~.0005" presses including the backs and lens holder. The heat sinks are modified rc car motor sinks.

    As for heat with no airflow it was at 47 degrees C (116 F) after being on high for two hours. I have the thermal protection on the bflex set at its lowest setting (50 C) and it hasn't tripped yet.

  6. #6
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    Nice Tig work there. Did you do it yourself??
    Heat sinks - Are they epoxied on? Not seeing any welds on the margins.
    A buddy of mine if going to try to Tig some of my .065 6061. Not sure if it will take the heat. Seeing your .125's gives me some hope though.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Nice Tig work there. Did you do it yourself??
    Heat sinks - Are they epoxied on? Not seeing any welds on the margins.
    A buddy of mine if going to try to Tig some of my .065 6061. Not sure if it will take the heat. Seeing your .125's gives me some hope though.
    Yes. I did the tig work. The tubing started off as .125" wall but was bored out to .0625" before welding. So, it is completely doable. I've tigged 5052 aluminum sheetmetal as thin as.020" for gas tanks in our Formula SAE car. I'm sure your friend will be able to weld it. As for the heat sinks they are epoxied on.

  8. #8
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    they look quite good!!

  9. #9
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    Very nice. I like the eyebrows too!

  10. #10

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    Beautiful light, excellent craftsmanship.

    I considered using a LiPo battery for my current project, but shied away from it because of their reputation for being unstable, especially with regards to physical damage. Have you taken some sort of precaution to avoid your battery pack from being damaged, or do you just consider it to be a non-issue?

  11. #11
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    Excelent

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinkansen
    Beautiful light, excellent craftsmanship.

    I considered using a LiPo battery for my current project, but shied away from it because of their reputation for being unstable, especially with regards to physical damage. Have you taken some sort of precaution to avoid your battery pack from being damaged, or do you just consider it to be a non-issue?
    I've been using li-po batteries for over a year with my custom halogen light without issues. I've had them mounted on my frame and in my jersey pocket with no casing around them, just battery heat shrink. I love them for they're high charge rates (~10c) where they can been charged to full capacity in ~20 mins. I say go for it!!

  13. #13
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    A tig machine I am envious. I just have a little hobart 135 MIG that does steel real well and stainless OK, never even tried aluminum with it. I wish I had a tig, I have tried brazing aluminum a few times and probably need to just keep practicing, since the results have been terrible. How hard was it to press the parts together with the .0005" difference. Did you heat up the tubing, or freeze the slug or both? Is it something that can be done with a bench vise and a little hammering or did that take a proper press? I have a single MC-E light that is currently glued together that I am getting ready to remake with the bottom of a Cannondale lefty fork and some aluminum round bar stock. If you can weld .020 aluminum sheet metal well enough to do a tank you have got skills. Very nice looking light.

  14. #14
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    Reputation: rollertoaster's Avatar
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    All I have to say is.... That is some amazing tig welding. I have a tig and there is no way I could do a weld that nice.
    Team _________

  15. #15
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    pass-through?

    Very cool design, how /where did you do the wiring pass-through from one tube to the other? I'm guessing it's under the welded area.

    I'm guessing the controller's in the left and just the switch in the right?

    Thanks
    Rob

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimZinVT
    Cool.....it's Groucho Marx!

    JZ
    x2! LOL

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjay
    How hard was it to press the parts together with the .0005" difference. Did you heat up the tubing, or freeze the slug or both? Is it something that can be done with a bench vise and a little hammering or did that take a proper press?
    No special tools for that light of a press, the parts can be pressed together with strong thumbs or a small rubber hammer.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndrordr
    Very cool design, how /where did you do the wiring pass-through from one tube to the other? I'm guessing it's under the welded area.

    I'm guessing the controller's in the left and just the switch in the right?

    Thanks
    Rob
    There are two grommeted pass-through holes one in front of the slugs that the leds mount to and one behind. The front hole allows for wiring between the stars and the rear allows for wiring the switch to the driver.They are both hidden by the weld.

    Yes, the driver is on the left thermally connected to the led and the switch on the right.

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