Dual Cree XR-E Bike Headlight- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Dual Cree XR-E Bike Headlight

    I just finished building my dual Cree XR-E Bike Headlight.

    https://yojimg.net/bike/equipment/lights/led_lights.php




  2. #2
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    Nice...

    I'm in the process of ordering the parts to make a pair of lights very similar to yours. One question- where did you get the handlbar mount? I've ordered some from Deal Extreme (where I'm getting the LEDs) but they look a bit flimsy...

  3. #3
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    I ordered mine from batteryspace.com...

    http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2198

    Unfortunately, I discovered after-the-fact that this part is *entirely* plastic, even the clamping bolt! I don't think it's sturdy enough...I'm going to at least replace the bolt with a metal one.

  4. #4
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    Nice looking light! Have you got a chance to try it out yet?

    Also. Which lenses, battery, driver did you choose?
    Last edited by achesalot; 04-25-2007 at 07:55 PM.

  5. #5
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    Hi, Yeaaaahhhhh!!!! simple and effective

    Could you put any photos of the process building?

    What degree optics are you used?

    Has used you constant current circuit??

    Congratulations

    Ps. Beamshots, please

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by achesalot
    Nice looking light! Have you got a chance to try it out yet?

    Also. Which lenses, battery, driver did you choose?
    Thanks. I haven't tried the light on a bike yet, though I've been doing some run-time tests.

    The lenses are 26mm L2 Optics OPTX 1-006. The battery is 8xAA NiMH for 9.6V. The driver is a bFlex @750mA in UIB mode (steady/flash/3 brightness levels) from http://taskled.com.

    A few more photos are at http://flickr.com/photos/jimg/sets/72157594520682904/

    Thanks for your DIY LED bike light guide website, I obviously copied a majority of the design from your Triple-Cree helmet light as well as your Dual Lux5 light!

  7. #7
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    How long does it run for on the 2500mAh batteries?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by STS01
    How long does it run for on the 2500mAh batteries?
    2 crees at that current needs about 7or 8 Watts of power. the battery if 9.6V and 2500mAh will have 9.6*2.5 = 24 Watt hours

    24/8= 3 Hours roughly

    Nice light by the way. The clamp looks similar to the one on my trailtech which has a metal bolt.....its not failed yet.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart B
    2 crees at that current needs about 7or 8 Watts of power. the battery if 9.6V and 2500mAh will have 9.6*2.5 = 24 Watt hours

    24/8= 3 Hours roughly

    Nice light by the way. The clamp looks similar to the one on my trailtech which has a metal bolt.....its not failed yet.

    Stu
    i will have to arrest you on this one.
    3,5V @ 700mA yields: (3,55V @ 0,750mA for arguments sake)
    3,55*0,750*2 = 5,325W
    24/5,325 = 4,5 hours

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by langen
    i will have to arrest you on this one.
    3,5V @ 700mA yields: (3,55V @ 0,750mA for arguments sake)
    3,55*0,750*2 = 5,325W
    24/5,325 = 4,5 hours
    you u are correct.....I think I looked at the wrong column in my spreadsheet. I think I used Vf total instaed of the powe total column DOH.

    sorry

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by STS01
    How long does it run for on the 2500mAh batteries?
    I haven't thoroughly tested the light yet, but I did do a simple run-time test the other day while at work....

    The bFlex driver used in my light is set to have 3 brightness levels: low/medium/high, where high is equal to the max current (750mA) and the other two settings scale accordingly.

    Starting from a nearly-full battery, after 30 minutes on high, the medium and high settings are indistinguishable. I suspect this is because the battery output drops enough to no longer supply enough power to the bFlex.

    I then ran the light for another 2 hours at medium with no noticeable drop in brightness.

    Also, the light housing got warm to the touch for the first 20-30 minutes, and then was only lukewarm during the remainder of the test.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimgskoop
    I haven't thoroughly tested the light yet, but I did do a simple run-time test the other day while at work....

    The bFlex driver used in my light is set to have 3 brightness levels: low/medium/high, where high is equal to the max current (750mA) and the other two settings scale accordingly.

    Starting from a nearly-full battery, after 30 minutes on high, the medium and high settings are indistinguishable. I suspect this is because the battery output drops enough to no longer supply enough power to the bFlex.

    I then ran the light for another 2 hours at medium with no noticeable drop in brightness.

    Also, the light housing got warm to the touch for the first 20-30 minutes, and then was only lukewarm during the remainder of the test.
    I don't know much about the bflex....but it may be that it struggles to regulate on fresh bats and makes the top 2 settings bright. I know my fenix p1d ce torch does similar things if I use a 3.6V bat instead of a 3V.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart B
    I don't know much about the bflex....but it may be that it struggles to regulate on fresh bats and makes the top 2 settings bright. I know my fenix p1d ce torch does similar things if I use a 3.6V bat instead of a 3V.
    I don't think it's that -- when the battery is fresh hi/med work fine, it's after 20-30 minutes on full power that the two modes are the same brightness (the medium brightness). The bFlex can take much more input voltage than 9.6V...its max recommended input is 25V.

    http://taskled.com/bflex.html

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimgskoop
    I don't think it's that -- when the battery is fresh hi/med work fine, it's after 20-30 minutes on full power that the two modes are the same brightness (the medium brightness). The bFlex can take much more input voltage than 9.6V...its max recommended input is 25V.

    http://taskled.com/bflex.html
    the batteries should be able to supply it at full current pretty much for the whole time. the board isn't getting hot is it?

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  15. #15
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    Hmmm -nice job Jim
    That runtime is terrible on high.
    I would chuck those battery holders and get some better quality ones.I've read of others who have had problems with those type holders -much resistance!
    Also -can you run a quick check of the batteries under load?
    Cheers
    Dom

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Hmmm -nice job Jim
    That runtime is terrible on high.
    I would chuck those battery holders and get some better quality ones.I've read of others who have had problems with those type holders -much resistance!
    Also -can you run a quick check of the batteries under load?
    Cheers
    Dom
    I'm using this battery holder:

    http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2124

    I was wondering if the leads from it were too thin to support ~1000mA of current. I'll try soldering my thicker power cord's leads directly to the holder's terminals...hopefully that'll drop the overall resistance.

    Note also that I'm not ONLY getting 30 minutes of runtime @ the high setting -- the light ran for over 2 hours actually, just that the brightness (current?) drops after about 30 minutes.

    What parameter of the batteries should I test under load -- the current or the voltage?

  17. #17
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    Hi Jim
    I was thinking the voltage -but someone would probably know better than me.
    I think the metal used in those holders is very resistive -it's just i have heard complaints before where it has been an issue.
    There are better options for the holders - something like these

    Always better to have a bit thicker wire -like you say.Never can hurt :-)
    Cheers
    Dom

  18. #18
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    The links won't go in
    If you google for "digikey aluminium aa battery holder" a pdf file will come up the holders are made by Keystone.
    Also just "aluminium aa battery holder" will come up with lots of places that sell them.

    Did research a few years ago for the same holders for camera extra powerpacs.
    The ones i got are plastic drawer type ones -but pretty expensive.

    Cheers
    Dom

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Hi Jim
    I was thinking the voltage -but someone would probably know better than me.
    I think the metal used in those holders is very resistive -it's just i have heard complaints before where it has been an issue.
    There are better options for the holders - something like these

    Always better to have a bit thicker wire -like you say.Never can hurt :-)
    Cheers
    Dom

    Alternate URL: http://tinyurl.com/2t4tmm

  20. #20
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    Ahhh -How did you make that url? -i can't even see the link in my post!

  21. #21
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    If you quote your original post, the URL shows up in the window. I copied that URL and plugged it into http://tinyurl.com...

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Hmmm -nice job Jim
    That runtime is terrible on high.
    I would chuck those battery holders and get some better quality ones.I've read of others who have had problems with those type holders -much resistance!
    Also -can you run a quick check of the batteries under load?
    Cheers
    Dom
    I just thought of something: After I recharged the 8xAA NiMH cells after that first runtime test (where I only got 30 minutes of super-bright light before it dimmed somewhat), one of the cells turned up dead (zero voltage, won't take a charge). Maybe the cell was actually bad beforehand, so I was running on 7 instead of 8 during the test? I'll have to repeat this test with different cells and see what happens...

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimgskoop

    They look just like Batteryspace holders. Do you or anyone else know if the springs are stiffer. My problem w/ the batteryspace holder is the light flashes on and off occasionally due to the battery disconnecting from the terminal on the other end of the holder opposite of the spring end due to the spring not being strong enough.

    Hope that made sense.

    MB

  24. #24
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    The bFlex is a great controller and in terms of load will have no issues powering a couple of Cree XR-E emitters, providing you have a bit of voltage overhead with you power source (which you should have with that setup).

    From your description the issue is most definitely with your power source, and could be a number of things. You mention a dead cell, and I’d say that’s probably your problem. A single dead cell in a pack like that will render the pack useless.

    Those holders are well known for being a pain and causing problems too, with so many contacts there’s a lot of mechanical connections increasing resistance and causing connection issues.

    And while I know most AA cells can cope with the kind of power draw that you see here, I hate the things with a passion. I know they’re convenient, but a nice well built pack with some decent sized cells will be a much better solution in my opinion.

    Dave.

  25. #25
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    Here is a pic of the holder in the link i gave before -the link has timed out so i too a photo of my screen.
    These are Keystone brand aluminium holders -which come in different configurations -available from places like Digikey and Keyelco



    If you are going to go the aa holder route -you may as well do it properly.

    As Dave says -a proper pack is the way to go.

    Cheers
    Dom

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