Driver board power problem- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Driver board power problem

    Today I soldered on new/longer wires onto my gloworm XS board after becoming displeased with the look of my splicing job to make the originals longer. Everything came out very clean, I finally got the length needed to mount the button right next to my grip. The cables I used are silicone insulated 90 strand 22awg so they are very flexible. I plugged in the battery and held my breath as I pressed the power button and to my relief the lights came on and it cycled through the setting fine.

    Now here's the problem.

    I didn't catch it at first because its bright in my shop but after a moment I realized its only operating at like 10% power. So my 10% is only like 1% and my 100% is only like 10% output. So I can use the remote to program the setting and everything but it's just really weak.

    Any helpful input would be appreciated as to what exactly isn't functioning right and any possible fixes. I was very carful not the heat anything up to much and short out any connection so I hate to think I burnt anything out but then again what else could to possibly be?

  2. #2
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    Post a picture of the area that you soldered. Both sides.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Post a picture of the area that you soldered. Both sides.
    I can't because after all that time carefully working one the light only to have a failed results left me a bit bitter. I just got up and walked away so since the stuff is at my work I won't have it in hand again till Monday. I'm kinda just wallowing in self pitty at the moment but that'll pass

    Are you thinking I have a weak connection? I thought that and I'll admit they probably aren't as great as original but seem ok to me. I even tried to soften the solder and let it set a second time but that didn't change anything.

    While the light is on I check the voltage at two point on the board. First where the battery connects, that was 7.4v. Second was the leads for the remote button and that was like 3.7 or something. Not really sure if that right and without an amp reading I'm thinking its kinda useless.

    Let me know what your thinking and I'll brainstorm over the weekend and see what I can do on Monday.

    I asked Jim at actionled if may have a broken XS with a good board that he's be willing to send me so maybe that'll turn into something.

  4. #4
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    I've never seen the board layout on one of those lights. The symptom you describe is similar to what happens when the current sense resistor burns out on the typical cheapo Chinese driver. If that resistor is close to where you were working, maybe its connection or possibly the component itself was damaged.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  5. #5
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    Driver board power problem-bd720c8f-a530-4128-a0d3-af62e7129892_zpsxnvnrss1.jpg
    Driver board power problem-68fb3cb3-baf9-4611-a481-6607314e6142_zpskis0vdhd.jpg

    I can't identify any of the components used on a printed broad so you'll have to keep it simple.

  6. #6
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    Nothing is clear enough to be sure. It looks like there are a couple components very close to the wire that looks to be soldered just to the right of the small mounting? hole. Any solder bridging from the wire to the components that should not be?
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  7. #7
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    Sorry all I've got is the Iphone and it don't do macro. As far as soldering bridges where they don't belong goes, I made sure nothing was bridged before plugging in the battery.

    Like you said it sound like the resistor is burnt out but hell I can't tell wich one these is a resistor. The little green guy seems like a possible suspect based on proximity alone but I just don't know. Even if I filigree out what resistor was bad, would replacing it even be possible without a spec sheet from gloworm?

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