DIY Light Newbie Help Please- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    DIY Light Newbie Help Please

    H building
    Im new to building lights and could do with some advice please.
    First off any suppliers of components in the UK would be great especially batterys.
    Secondly could you please advise if i have got the right components for a 3 light system before i go ahead and order.
    1 off CNC style housing made by me
    1 off 3021-A-E-1000 External dimming Buckpuck driver
    1 off 3021-3023 wiring harness convertor
    3 off PWCO8 TFFC K2 Luxeon Star White 80 Lumen @ 350ma
    1 off 5K potentiometer
    Im unable to find a supplier who will ship a 18650 14.8v 4400 mah battery pack to the uk so any help here greatly appreciated.
    I have found a supplier who will ship single 25500 protected 5500ma 3.7v units but are these any use.
    Any assistance appreciated
    Thanks Mark

  2. #2
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    My 2 cents; if you want to build something "advanced" w/ a CNC casing, I would look at something else than the K2 LEDs. 2 MC-Es would do an awesome job.

    Also, you forgot to put some lenses for your LEDs!

    Good luck!

  3. #3
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    2 MCEs it is then but supplier in uk please

  4. #4
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    Now my 2 cents! I am in the UK and get my LEDs and optics from Cutter in Aus, my drivers from TaskLED in the states, switches from Rapidonline here and batteries and misc stuff from DX in China.
    I know you are looking for a UK supplier, I tried that too but had no luck. IMHO you can't beat taskled for the drivers and I have never had a problem with Cutter this year.
    I've just finished building a dual MC-E light today and it's silly bright!
    Good luck with your build!

  5. #5
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    Reputation: HEY HEY ITS HENDO's Avatar
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    Hey dadandlad, welcome to the crazy house ...
    as piesoup says, take a look here,

    http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+XPG

    139 lumens at 350ma
    ...and here for drivers

    http://www.taskled.com/
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  6. #6
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    Hanks HHIH! I am on the iPhone and it's a pain to copy and paste links!
    It's definitly worth the wait for the postage to get the best drivers and LEDs. What size battery do you intend using? That will determine the driver to get.
    Boost drivers require an input LOWER than your led forward voltage. And a boost driver requires an input HIGHER than the led vf. These are better!

  7. #7
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    Hi
    Thanks for the links and info
    My head is totally in bits now
    I have managed to source my battery 14.8v 5.2ah
    The drivers i looked at seem to be mounted on circuit boards am i correct and the leds you linked me to dont seem to have any info regarding voltage etc.
    Could you list the parts i require.
    What was wrong with my original selection?
    I can see this could be either great fun or a real nightmare and i have come to realise i have a great deal to learn
    My original inspiration being the DIY LED bike light guide
    HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELP

  8. #8
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    Nothing wrong with your parts list, just that there are better bits out there to make a better light! If you are going to the trouble to write a cnc program and set the tooling I'd have ther best parts possible in the body.
    So with your battery you'll most probably need a buck driver. Like the bFlex from TaskLED. That will be able to drive about 4 dies in series. That is, the total Vf of the LEDs must be less than your battery + the drop in the driver. Usually one volt per die.

    So that will be one MC-E with it's 4 dies in series or 4 XR-E type LEDs. In this config, with the dies in series, all the dies 'see' all the current.

    However!! This is where it gets good! If you have 2MC-E with their dies in series but LEDs in parallel, the voltage will be the same but the current will be shared by the 2 LEDs. Each die will see 600mA. That will make a super bright light with some good optics.

    Optics, I have used the CMC RS, available from Cutter. There is a threat started by Troutie, about the different optics for the MC-E.

    Switches, you will need a momentary switch for the flex drivers. I get mine from Rapidonline. There is one with a built in LED to use with the status function.

    I hope I haven't insulted your intelligence here. I've just mentioned what I could have done with when I started out!! It is confusing when you first start out, but it does get easier!

  9. #9
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    Cheers lads for the input,i have spent the last few days re-evaluating my project and would like you to comment on my parts selection once again please.
    14.8v 5.2ah battery
    3023-d-e-1000 pma wired buckpuck
    3 off cree xre 7090 Q5 on star pcb
    3 off carclo lense holder for cree xr-e
    2 off carclo 20mm plug in lense 13 degree
    1 off carclo 20mm plug in lense 23 degree
    Im trying to keep it nice and simple for my first attempt.(and reasonably cheap) so i have opted for the single led's
    Just a bit of confusion does the driver i have chosen come with the potentiometer or do i need to source one.
    Do i need to fit a on/off switch
    Your comments very much appreciated
    p.s has anyone dealt with a firm called led-tech who i think are in Germany?
    Thanks Mark

  10. #10
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    Hi Dadandlad

    I think you could do better and I may be able to help here .

    you can do a housing to suit which for you will be easy .

    and a quad xre R2 on a board with a cute quad optic and a bflex driver or a 1000 ma buckpuck is a killer light and will work well with your 14.8 volt battery.

    which for the uk you could contact [email protected] who does good packs and chargers.

    I am in the uk and just happen to have a quad R2 board and cute optic to suit you can have for the price I paid plus PP

    your chosen optics are not that good there are better and easier to use ones if you go with the seperate leds IE the ledil CRS xre optics which you can get from
    bram here http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=175502

    he is very fast and good prices he also has the leds too

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