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  1. #1
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    DIY Dinotte Style

    I used some parts from Lowes to create a Dinotte style 200L.

    1. Hollow 1" Aluminum round tube. Not 3/4" like the picture shows.
    2. Nibco 3/4" brass plug
    3. Bar end plug from Cinelli handlebar tape

    I AA'd a Cree LED to the brass plug and then AA'd the brass plug to the inside of the Aluminum tube. When the Arctic Alumina (AA) dried, I used some black RTV to seal the front lens and the tail plug. The handle bar plug end fits perfect inside the brass Nebco fitting.

    I can't wait to try it out!
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    Last edited by p97z; 01-05-2008 at 12:09 PM.

  2. #2

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    Nice. Very clean looking finished product.

  3. #3
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    Very cool looking light!

    I have a few questions if you don't mind.
    What driver and battery are you using?
    Seeing that it's only 3.7volts you could probably power this thing with some fairly cheap batteries.

    Another question, where did you get that "rubberband" to hold the light to your bars? I was thinking maybe one of those old vacuum cleaner belts or something.

    Did you have to file down the end of that copper slug to get it to fit inside the housing? In the interest of saving weight you could probably cut that thing in half and still have plenty of surface area for heat dissipation.
    09 Giant Anthem X3
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  4. #4

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    rubber band

    any big hardware store will have a large selection

    its an o-ring. there are many many sizes metric and US..

  5. #5
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    I'm using a buck/boost converter from Sandwich Shoppe.
    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=961

    I'm using a spare o-ring from my Dinotte and 4 AA batteries for power. I did have to file down the end of the copper slug. It's a tight fit so it works out perfect.

    If i make it any smaller then I don't think it will fit well on the bars. It's a little shorter then my 200L. My 200L doesn't move at all while riding so I hope this DYI setup is the same.

  6. #6
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    I'm interested in that copper plug. Is that the heatsink? Where did you get it? If that is solid copper I could push a K2 to the 1500mA they say it will do. Does everything size good for a good fit inside that tube you're using?

  7. #7
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    What driver would you use to push the K2 emitters to 1500mA?
    The most I've seen is a 1200mA driver.
    09 Giant Anthem X3
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    Here's a poor diagram showing how it fits together. It's a tight fit! The copper plug is hollow so the driver fits inside. The diameter of the housing is the same size as the bar end plug.
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    I've been looking for a compact design for a single Lux III tail light and this would work great! A couple of questions:

    1. What optic did you use?
    2. Did you use a star?

  10. #10
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    I'm going to make a tail light next. This came out better then I expected.

    1. I used a Cree 8 degree 20mm optic. Any of the 20mm or smaller optics will fit perfect.
    2. I used a Cree LED mounted on a star. The star fits perfect without any filing.

  11. #11
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    p97z,

    Very nice! That has got to be one of the simplest and most effective led DIY's I have ever come across. Thanks for posting so much info.

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    I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...

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    Thanks jims!

    I'm making another one and this time i'll post more pictures.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockymtnway
    I'd like to see you use one of those triple Rebels with this design. 300 lumens @ 350ma or 540 lumens at 700ma would seem to be the ideal single LED to use for a compact headlamp. Still, sourcing optics is a bear and I'm having to modify optics to get what I want. Something to think about though...
    Not enough mass and surface to accomodate 3 LEDs at higher currents.
    Need optics for DIY bike lights?

  15. #15
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    The Shark driver can be altered to push up to 2 amps. Heatsinking is the issue. Read in the Candlepower forums.

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    1. Cut the hollow Aluminum tube to 2 inches.
    2. The copper plug is a little too big to fit in the aluminum. Use a rough file or a Dremel to remove the outer lip.
    3. The Aluminum housing needs a way to sit on the handle bars. Cut a round grove in the bottom using a round file or a Dremel with a round sanding attachment. Align the grove so the housing is centered. For over sized bars you may need to make the grove larger.
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    Last edited by p97z; 12-29-2007 at 11:46 AM.

  17. #17
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    4. Put two small groves in the top of the aluminum housing using a small round file. This will keep the rubber mounting o-ring from slipping.
    5. Sand the housing using some fine sand paper. You can polish it if you want.
    6. Align the LED in the center of the copper plug. I'm using a Seoul with an L2 optic. It's easier to use a star because you only have to drill one hole.
    7. Epoxy (Arctic Alumina) the LED to the copper plug. I also use silicone RTV to keep the wires from shorting against the copper plug.
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    8. Secure the optic holder to the copper plug. I let a little dry on the sides of the holder to make a snug fit. The L2 optics are a little smaller then the housing.
    9. Mix some AA adhesive and apply a thin coat to the copper slug. Slide the copper plug in the aluminum housing and let dry. Leave enough room at the front to allow a bead of silicone.
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  19. #19
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    10. Wire your favorite driver and insert the bar plug.
    11. Put some silicone on the front lens and your done.
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  20. #20
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    Hey, now we all have a use for the leftovers when we shortened our handlebars!

  21. #21
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    Hi, solder you the leds directly to the copper?? Where you put the constant current circuit??

    Great job.

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  22. #22
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    SWEET!!! I need to go to HomeDepot ASAP!

    Long Live Long Rides

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by msxtr
    Hi, solder you the leds directly to the copper?? Where you put the constant current circuit??
    No! The LED leads are not on the copper... I soldered wires to them then used silicone to keep them from shorting on the copper. The circuit is right in front of the zip tie. I use the zip to as a strain relief just in case the battery wire gets pulled.
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  24. #24
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    Eat that Niterider. You're probably going to get more light out of your home-build than those Niterider MiNewt lights if you drive the leds right. Good job fella.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn-dave
    Hey, now we all have a use for the leftovers when we shortened our handlebars!
    Now there's an idea!

  26. #26
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    It's amazing what a Dremel and some aluminum polish can do! I can almost see myself in the reflection!
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  27. #27
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    That look great, from two meter away, you can't tell if that is really dinotte or not. great info.....thanx

  28. #28
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    Thanks! Now, if I could only drill some holes in the top...

  29. #29
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    I love the light. A few questions. Where did you purchase the cree optic from? Do you have an on/off switch for the light? Also, since I'm not an electrical engineer, how is the power connected to the buck/boost? Where does the + and - lead connect? Sorry for the dumb questions.

  30. #30
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    I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on enough parts to build a few of these for me and a friend. I think I've got it figured out. I'm going with Cree stars and 800ma drivers from Dealextreme.

    I'm looking at the Following parts for Optics and Holders. I'm having problems figuring out what optic and holder goes with what LED. Are these correct for this project? Should I go with 15 or 5 degree optics? I'm thinking I'll run two on the bar, one of each.

    Luxeon III or V Star Optic Holder
    20 mm 5 Degree Optic
    20 mm 15 Degree Optic

    I'm planning on adding a switch on the back and use my current 6V battery for them.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  31. #31
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    If I can build this then anybody can... there is no such thing as a dumb question to me!

    I got the optic from a group buy on CPF but you can get the same one here.

    http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=1488

    It's a little bigger than the aluminum housing so you'll need to sand the edges to make it fit. It makes a great spot beam with little side spill. It would make a great helmet light. On the bars i like a spot with a flood.

    I've played with optics and my preference is 1 CREE with the 8 degree optic and 2 Seoul with 15 degree L2 optics. I have only done a short ride with the two lights i just built and the spot flood combo is great!

    For converter boards I used the Buck/Boost @ 1 amp from Sandwich shop.

    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=961

    I tested runtime using 2 Duracell 2650mAh AA NiMH batteries and the ran one hour and 40 mins of "useable" light. You could get some long runtime with this battery.
    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=1143

    For the switch... i put it in the power cord. There is enough room to put a switch in the light but I didn't have a small one handy. At some point I will probably pull the bar plug out and add one.

  32. #32
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    No! You can't use the Cree led's with the L2 optics! You need to use Seoul stars with the L2
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445

    I don't see the Cree 8 degree optic that I used at DealExtreme...

    So you plan on running four of them? If so, you may want three with the 15 degrees and one with the 5 degree. The nice thing about making these lights is that you can pop out the optic and see which combo you like.

    If you stick with the Seoul LED's and the L2 optics i think you'll be happy.
    Last edited by p97z; 12-30-2007 at 08:35 PM.

  33. #33
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    I'm confuzzled trying to figure out which optics and holders go with which LEDs. Is there a place on the web that explains which one goes with which? If the Seoul Use L2, which ones do the Cree's use? I thought it was the L3.

    Thanks for the help in answering my stupid questions. I was hoping to get everything from dealextreme but it looks like they are out. I'd consider going with either Seoul or Cree if I could get the optics and drivers to match from dealextreme.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  34. #34
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    Cree takes a special optic designed for the Cree led. Seoul came out after cree and claimed to be a Luxeon replacement. I've been happy with the L2 and Seoul's.

    One of the hardest things about building your own light is finding where to get the components. It's hard to find one place that sells everything you need.

    http://www.kaidomain.com has some good stuff also. I see he has some multi mode drivers that you could play with.

  35. #35
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    Probably the best place on the web to get the information is through Candle Power Forums.

    www.candlepowerforums.com

    I found the optics I like through trial and error... and lots of error!

  36. #36
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    Is this the optic you used? KaiDoman has them 10 for 9.99

    8 Degree Optic

    If this is it then I'll get the Q5 Stars and drivers from dealextreme and the optics from Kai and I should be good to go. Thanks for all of the help with this.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  37. #37
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    That's the right optic for the Cree but it doesn't have much flood. I think you'll want to mix that 8 degree with a Seoul and a 15 Degree L2.

    Do you have any Arctic Alumina epoxy? If not get it from here http://www.ledsupply.com/asta-7g.php and get a few L2 15 degree optics with holders.

  38. #38
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    I'm going to get the epoxy which I new about. When you keep mentioning L2 Optics I don't see them at LED supply. I see Luxeon K2 on this page is that it. Do you have a link to the correct optics? I'm trying to go cheap and can't find a nice simple cross reference for optics and LED's.
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  39. #39
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    Oh... Sorry, I wasn't clear. The optics for all the Luxeon LED's are the same. The optic snaps into the holder. The holder is different for each Lux.

    You posted the correct links above.
    http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php is for the wide beam.
    and the Lux III holder
    http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php

    You can use them with the Seoul.

    Edit: They mention at www.ledsupply.com that they are called L2... I can't seem to find it though.

  40. #40
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    Thanks, in that case I think I'll go all Seoul to save a few bucks. Thanks for all of the help.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  41. #41
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    I agree... I think you'll be happier with the Seoul over the Cree.

  42. #42
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    problem with seoul from dealextreme is that they are not white in color like their Q5 are. even though they say it's color bin: SW0 - pure white), but it's not. I'm waiting on a order from Kaidomain to see if they are pure white.
    remember the 800ma $1.50 driver are driven at 1000ma at even 6v to one led, so you will likely have heat issues, unless you live in a cold climate and moving. do some indoor fan test for full 10 hours before you go out. unless you like to bike in the dark.
    also http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=1603 for q5 are very narrow bright spot.

  43. #43
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    I know about the higher drive current for the driver. I'm going to give these a try, if I have heat/durability issues I'll go for another lower power driver. I'm usually moving for my rides and I'm going to take me chances.

    I've ordered the Seouls, drivers and optics. I'm now in waiting mode to receive the parts.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  44. #44
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    have fun waiting, usually it's 3-4 week for stuff from dealextreme and kaidomain, here is what happen when you have overheating. it doesn't have overheat protection. it just go pop, light out and you smell the resister burning inside the housing.

  45. #45
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    I've dealt with Dealextreme for a couple of years and I know how long it will take. And if Achesalot is running the Seouls at 1000ma in his lights without a problem I don't think it will be a problem for me!
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  46. #46
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    One nice thing about having multiple lights with separate drivers. If one goes out, there are a couple more lit. Where I ride the temperature is around freezing. I don't have any problems overheating.

  47. #47
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    Same here, It's cold on my night rides and I'm always moving. And your design has a good bit of thermal mass with both the aluminum and brass fittings. If it looks like they are too hot in testing I'll add an R/C car Heatsink to them. I doubt that will be a problem.
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  48. #48
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    I have to dissagree with the Seoul's being better than the Cree's. I have three tripple systems that I run at 1000mA, one Seouls, one Crees, and one Luxeon K2s. The Crees put out the most light and a fairly white light. The K2s don't seem to be as bright but I like the color, and the Seouls start out with a white simular to an HID but quickly loose intensity and give a really bluish tint. The Cree's seem to need a stronger battery too. I can run the Seouls and K2s with an 11.1v pack but not the Crees. I need the 14.8v pack to run it. They all use the bFlex driver. Maybe if I get some time tonight I'll take some beam shots and post them.

  49. #49
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    I agree with mofoki on the led. SSC lost their color or not as white as Q5. the good thing about SSC u-bin is that their color stay the same "off white" for the 3 hour test I've ben doing. and they are half the price of Q5. Q5 stays white, I guess you get what you pay for. Where is Cree made at. SSC are made in Korea, right? lens for SSC are $1.75 from ledsupply. good optic for Q5 cost $3 plus expensive shipping from led-spot.com. anyone get optics cheaper? looking to build the cheapest, brightest 3 hour light with minimum work on housing under $80 with battery/charger.

  50. #50
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    I've had hit and miss luck with the Souls. With the Cree's however I haven't had good luck with optics.

  51. #51
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    Here's a start. You can add or subtract components from the list below.

    Seoul LED $6.00
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
    Holder + Optic $2.00
    http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-oh-s35.php
    Optic
    http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php

    Driver $21.50
    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=961{1}2{2}2{7}5
    Battery $19.99
    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=1143
    Charger $22.95
    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=478
    Coupon for 20% off all-battery
    http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho....php?p=2102809
    Adhesive $6.80
    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=171
    Copper Slug $3.50
    Aluminum 4 Foot $9.99

    Total (-wire and connector) $92.74
    You'll get well over 3 hrs runtime.

    If you use AA batteries it would be cheaper.

  52. #52
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    I'm going cheapo on my system. By using this controller as well as Seouls Mine should cost less than 25 bucks each not including battery. The controllers are basic no level units but I never use low or medium on my dinotte. I went Seoul because they are cheaper as well. I'm using my existing 6V battery or you could use a AA battery pack for cheap. This is an untested design but it looks like it will work.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  53. #53
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    I did a run time test using both lights and 4 AA batteries for each light. Duracell 2650mAh NiMH AA batteries. Both lights held strong for 2 hours and 30 minutes. The light slowly dropped off but was still going at 2 hours and 50 minutes. I kept a box fan on them and they never got hot...

  54. #54

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    I went to Lowes today and got the 3/4" plug (Nibco 616) like in your picture and also the tubing. However, I'm pretty sure that the tubing that you are using is not the 3/4" that you showed in your photo but is actually 1" aluminum tubing. The O.D. of the 3/4" plug is 7/8" and the O.D. of the 1" tube is 1.00" with an I.D. of just over 7/8". See pictures of the tubing that I got. Am I right?

    I'm going to start by building several tail lights. I ordered red-orange Lux III and 5x20 degree oval optics from LED supply. I ordered this cheap driver from kaidomain. I'm going to run it off of 3 niNH AA cells. Other than that, I'm going to build it exactly like you.

  55. #55

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    D'oh!! Here's the photos:

    1" Aluminum Tube (Steelworks #11405)
    IMG_0623.jpg

    3/4" (Nibco #616) Plug inserted into 1" Aluminum Tube (Steelworks #11405). Nice fit with just enough room for AA
    IMG_0627.jpg

  56. #56
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    I'm going a similar route with a cheap driver from Dealextreme. I haven't been to lowes yet. I'll be sure to measure the parts when I go pick them up. I don't think I'll do any hacking on the metal until everything arrives to make sure everything will fit.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I've had hit and miss luck with the Souls. With the Cree's however I haven't had good luck with optics.

    Have you tried Carclo Lens for the Cree's?

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut688

  58. #58
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    I ordered some of those optics but never got them... After a month and a half I canceled the order. I used some Carclo's with Seoul and I liked the L2 a little better. With K2's and Lux V's the Carclo's were awesome!

  59. #59
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    Strange... They are both exactly the same from what I can tell. The Lowes near me had both of them. The only difference I can tell is that one is 3 feet long and the other is 8 feet. Maybe one is labeled wrong? It looks like either will work.

  60. #60
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    This is the cleanest DIY housing style yet. Would it be possible to skip the optics, put the LED's right on the copper plug, and run 3 of them as a flood? I have a killer spot light right now and need a bar flood. Can you run multiple LED's off one driver?

  61. #61
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    Thanks thebronze!

    You could make a light without the optic if you want but the 15 degree makes a great flood. http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-op-015.php Two of them are great!

    You would also want to put something in front to protect the LED.

    If you want to run more then one LED then it's up to the driver. The sandwich shop has a shark driver or taskled.com has a multi driver. You'll have to check the specs to see which ones can be used.
    Last edited by p97z; 01-02-2008 at 04:39 PM.

  62. #62
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    Does anybody have any beam shots yet? I am wondering what to do for a handlebar light and this is looking like it would be simple enough for me to build!

  63. #63

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    Without a lens, I think thebronze will be pretty disappointed with the light produced. Think about a 40w light bulb in a chandelier and how little light it really gives off. In that case you've got roughly 600 lumens and it barely lights up a room because the light is going in all directions (360 degrees). With the Cree and Seoul LEDs, you have less than half that light per LED, and it comes out of the LED at 160-180 degrees. The reason LEDs appear so bright is because good optics concentrate that light into 10-25 degrees, where you need it. One LED with no optic is only putting 1/10th the light directly in front of you as the same LED with a 15 degree optic. The rest is lost ot lighting up your front tire and outer space.

  64. #64

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    What about adding 2-3 of those RC car motor heatsinks to the outside?



    Just a thought. Sure, you lose some of the simplicity of the design and sleekness, but it dramatically increases the surface area.

  65. #65
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    This is great!

    Quote Originally Posted by rockymtnway
    Nice. Very clean looking finished product.
    I recently bought a bunch of these to keep around the house and in the car:

    https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...emnumber=93712



    They're cheap, and run forever on a set of batteries.

    THe whole thing is machined alu, and screws together... each piece. The LED array is all based on about a 20mm form factor, like the LED elements y'all are using.

    I'm thinking of ordering up some parts, optics, driver board... drilling some holes, AA Epoxy a copper slug behind the LED board. Run it all off my 4AH 6v NiteRider Headtrip battery. I'm thinking it can look pretty pro, and without spending crazy amounts of dough to do it. Zip a couple of round grooves in there for a rubber band type bar mount, or maybe drill and tap a screw mount for my NR Headtrip mount.

  66. #66
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    Here are some beam shots... Sorry, they were taken against a light blue wall.

    On the left is a Cree with 8 degree optics. Middle is a Dinotte. Right is 15 degree L2.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  67. #67
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    1. Cree 8 degree.
    2. Seoul L2 15 Degree
    3. Dinotte
    4. Seoul 5 Degree L2
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    Last edited by p97z; 01-02-2008 at 05:24 PM.

  68. #68
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    Wowza! I'm really looking forward to getting mine built. They look better than the Dinottes IMHO!
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  69. #69
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    VaughnA, You'll be glad you went with Seoul and the L2 optics...

  70. #70
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    A comment or two and a question:
    First, great light, great design and great step by step.

    Beaten to death in this thread, but that driver you used is on the pricey side for my budget on a single LED light. I have had good luck with this one from Dealextreme. I got 3-4 hours on high with three new 2600mah AA nimh's. at 72 degrees inside with no moving air it got pretty warm, but in front of the heat vent with moving air it stayed cool as can be. Outside it was ice cold.

    My question is how do you keep the driver exposed wiring/components from touching the housing? I put a bead of silicone on mine in a few places and covered the + totally, but on my taillight, I had it stop working the other day, pulled the wiring out of the housing and it started working again. There were no broken wires. I wonder if I should just cover the whole driver in clear silicone?

  71. #71
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    Electrical tape, heatshrink tubing or liquid electrical tape.

  72. #72
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    mjzraz,

    I think the trick for intermittent problems is to keep the power wire from moving. I've had problems with another light where the power wire would rotate or move inside the housing and cause problems. I put a nice gob of silicone on the driver and the wire where it goes into the body. I also add a zip tie to the inside power cable which acts as a strain relief and gives the silicone something bond to. Basically I silicone everything...

    Thanks for the tip on the driver. I had a bunch of stuff laying around from some projects I did last year. The only thing I purchased for this project was the aluminum bar and copper plugs. I just bought some more stuff from deal extreme so I could make a couple more of these.

  73. #73
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    Very Classy and professional light. I love it.

  74. #74
    btc
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    p97z,
    Great job ! very nice & clean look to the light. Thank you for sharing.

    Some questions before I built one for the bike. I'm going to use this light as a tail light.

    1- Do you have a picture of the switch (light - switch - battery) & where did you buy the switch?
    2- Do they make a bright RED led for tail light? If not I can use a red len in front of the light.
    3- Is a 15 degree len a good angle for a tail light ?
    4- I see that you have posted 3-4 different web site to order parts from. Is there one site that I can order all the parts to save on the shipping ?

    Thanks!

  75. #75
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    Thanks toyota200x and btc!

    1. I'm still looking for the perfect switch so for now I put the switch on the power connector. I'm looking for a push button but having problems finding one small enough.
    2. Yes, they make red LED's. I just ordered a Red Cree from here. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1776
    3. I think an L2 15 degree would make a great angle for a tail light. You could use a Red Luxeon.
    4. As far as I know there isn't just one site to get everything from.

    Here's some pictures of the power connectors and switch. I don't like the stitch on the cord... it's hard to find and doesn't work well with gloves.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  76. #76
    btc
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    p97z,

    You are using 4AA battery that = 6v. I forgot to mention, I'm planning to use my existing Li-ion 7.2V 5.5ah rechargable battery. Is this too much volt for the driver or circuit to the LED ?

  77. #77
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    btc, It depends on the driver circuit. Which driver circuit are you going to use?

  78. #78
    btc
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    p97z, I'm looking at these SOB series on the bottom of this page (see link below). It have a max volt input up to 16v, so my 7.2v battery should be OK for this? this is getting too technical for me

    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...8_49_61&page=2

  79. #79
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    btc,

    That looks fine. I've got a downboy (the old version of the SOB) in a couple lights. I ran them off of 9.6 V. A 7.2v should work fine!

    Just be careful not to reverse polarity. Make sure you use connectors that can't be plugged in backwards. I learned the hard way. I blew up a downboy ...

  80. #80
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    p97z, I'm also looking at this one post up by VaughnA, it a better price. See link below.
    I'm going to put a list of all the parts together this weekend.

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

  81. #81

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    I understand that the brightest LED for a tail light is a red orange Luxeon III LXHL-LH3C which is typically 190 lm at 1.4 A http://luxeon.com/products/line.cfm?lineId=2
    You can get it here for $8 http://www.ledsupply.com/lxhl-lh3c.php

    I believe that this is much brighter than any Cree red LED. For example, the Cree XR in red-orange is only 30 to 40 lm and in red is only 18 to 31 lm. http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampLEDcolorBrief.pdf

    I am currently building a Dinotte Style tail light with the Lux III and will report back when it is finished.

  82. #82
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    btc, I ordered some of those drivers also. For the price you can't go wrong.

    smacmillin, Thanks for the tip on red led's. I had a red Lux III and tired to make a sandwich with it. I got frustrated with the sandwich (led with driver board combo) and decided to take it apart. When I took it apart I broke the red LED. In the end I used the driver for this light...

    For a tail light I wanted a flashing mode so ordered some multi mode drivers from here. http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=3151

    btc, you may want to look at that driver also...

  83. #83
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    p97 It's looking like you have another classic design like achesalot and the pond scum project. Thanks for the design. I'm going to have to wait another 2 weeks for my dealextreme stuff, I"m going to go crazy. I'd like to go ahead and work on the housings while waiting for the parts. Do you know how long I'll need to make the aluminum outer when using a star? I'm making 4 units so I'd like to get a head start.

    You Da Man!
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  84. #84
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    VaughnA, Thanks for the compliment!

    Cut the aluminum housing to 2 in = 5.1 cm. Don't glue the copper housing into the aluminum tube though. The depth of the copper slug is what's different for the type of LED (star, non-star, Cree, Seoul, Luxeon, etc). When you file down the lip on the copper slug be careful not to round it off or file too much. If you file too much of the copper slug, it can crack. You have to grind a lot to do it but it's worth mentioning.

    I’m waiting for some parts also so I know how you feel…

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popper252
    What driver would you use to push the K2 emitters to 1500mA?
    The most I've seen is a 1200mA driver.
    Hi, for my "N5" with 2 luxeon K2 (olds) I use this driver to 1500 ma





    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  86. #86
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    smacmillin is right... This is 1 inch round tube not 3/4 like the picture shows. The piece I bought must be marked wrong! Sorry for any confusion.
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    For a tail light I wanted a flashing mode so ordered some multi mode drivers from here. http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=3151

    btc, you may want to look at that driver also...[/QUOTE]

    Question about this and other multi-mode drivers: How do you switch between modes? Is it with a momentary switch on specific contacts on the board? Or is it by switching on and off the power?

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by smacmillin
    Question about this and other multi-mode drivers: How do you switch between modes? Is it with a momentary switch on specific contacts on the board? Or is it by switching on and off the power?
    I think you switch between modes by switching the power on and off. You need to switch the power on and off for no longer then two seconds. I'll let you know for sure when I get one.

  89. #89
    btc
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    p97z, Thanks for verify the tube size, I'm glad I did not buy the tube yet. BTW. Nice measuring tool. I use the cressent wrench and a ruler.

  90. #90
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    p97z

    Great design. Very keen to give it a go. I’ve always liked the simplicity of the Dinotte light and this is much better.

    Only problem I’m in OZ so need to find some local alternatives.

    Our local equiv to Lowes has some 25mm Alum tube but the actual thickness of the wall looks pretty thin compared to yours. This maybe an issue in terms of filing the grooves for the O-Rings and where it sits on the bar – as it looks like you would not have to go too deep to go through the wall. Would it possible for you to measure the thickness of the walls so I can check.

    Any help appreciated.

    Cheers – Richard.

  91. #91
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    You can get those....

    Quote Originally Posted by btc
    p97z, Thanks for verify the tube size, I'm glad I did not buy the tube yet. BTW. Nice measuring tool. I use the cressent wrench and a ruler.
    ... at Harbor freight for like $20... $15 when they are on sale. They rule. I have Hope Mono Mini brakes that use a shim stack to set the alignment. Using a caliper makes that process a one or two try 5 minute process. Before using a caliper, it was more like 15 minutest to half an hour of adding and removing shims.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...emnumber=47256

    Last edited by pimpbot; 01-10-2008 at 11:26 AM.

  92. #92
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    Interesting...

    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    smacmillin is right... This is 1 inch round tube not 3/4 like the picture shows. The piece I bought must be marked wrong! Sorry for any confusion.
    Pipe size is usually the inside diameter. Fine with me, as long as I know what I'm getting.

    Hit another snag last night. I found another slightly bigger Harbor Freight flashlight I thought would work. It was bigger, but still didn't work.

    I think I should just do the pipe and copper plug thing like you did.

  93. #93
    ballbuster
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    I like this one:

    Quote Originally Posted by rockymtnway
    What about adding 2-3 of those RC car motor heatsinks to the outside?



    Just a thought. Sure, you lose some of the simplicity of the design and sleekness, but it dramatically increases the surface area.
    https://stores.channeladvisor.com/rc...ms/hi-acc3921?


  94. #94
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    plasticman,

    It's not real thick. You really don't need much to hold the rubber bands in place.
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  95. #95
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    p97z

    thanks. much appreciated. The standrd in Oz for wall thinkness seems to be 1.6mm for both copper and Al pipe so the one I saw should be OK based on your measurement. I just need to find some copper plugs to suit and I'm off. (after I order some stuff from DX and Kaidomain). Thanks for flicking the switch to mm as well. Saved me a conversion !!

    Thanks again - richard.

  96. #96

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    Just been browsing the Dinotte website out of interest, they have some reasonably priced spare parts available, inc a good bar mount for $9 Here

  97. #97
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    TheFunkyMonkey, Good catch! I may use the tail light mount for a red light.

  98. #98

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    Wouldn't have been there without your inspiration p97z!

    The battery kits are pretty good value with charger, battery bag and cables inc too

  99. #99
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    Nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by TheFunkyMonkey
    Wouldn't have been there without your inspiration p97z!

    The battery kits are pretty good value with charger, battery bag and cables inc too
    ... and here I was gonna fabricate my own helmet mount. I have a NR Headtrip, and a spare mount shoe. I was gonna make a bracket of some sort between them to hold two of these lights.

  100. #100
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    If you are looking for a battery I just bought this...

    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2147

    and this charger...

    https://www.all-battery.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=478

    Enter coupon code: "independence" and get 7% off and free shipping.

  101. #101
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    First off, nice job on the light!!!! I have been lurking on this board for a couple of months and finally decided to pull the plug and order all the stuff for my own light... using your design (which is the cleanest, simpliest one that I have seen so far!!!)

    So I ordered all the parts for it today, based on your parts list that was posted a little while ago and I think that I may have made an error... let me know if this is going to work or if I should get a different battery.

    Parts list:

    SSC P4 leds
    the 4 pack of driver boards from Deal Extreme (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256)
    2 batteries... one 2200 mah and one 4400 mah 7.4v lith ion battery
    Charger
    A bunch of optics and holders
    (I have a ton of nightrider cables and connectors, so I am going to use those for the wiring and connections)

    The question that I have... with the driver and one led and the battery voltage of 7.4v, will that work ok or will it toast the led? Do I need to have a lower voltage battery to use this board with just one led?

    Also, will one of these drivers run 2 leds?

    Sorry for the newbie questions, but I just wanted to make sure I was not going to cook the led... I am not a very good cook!!!

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamen00

    The question that I have... with the driver and one led and the battery voltage of 7.4v, will that work ok or will it toast the led? Do I need to have a lower voltage battery to use this board with just one led?

    Also, will one of these drivers run 2 leds?
    tamen00, Thanks!

    You should be good with the driver and battery combo you chose. It looks like you can go up to 9V with that driver. The driver will keep the LED from burning up so don't worry. I will be using the same setup.

    The driver spec doesn't say how many LED's that board will drive but I am willing to bet you can only drive one at a time.

    I see somebody added a schematic diagram and explained how to boost the efficiency at higher voltages. I may play with adding some capacitors when I get mine. By boosting the efficiency you can get a little longer run time.

  103. #103

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    p97z, I got the same charger with the 6600 battery, good value from all-battery. Cost me about £55 (about $110) to the UK inc duty.

  104. #104
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    6600 NICE! That should give several hours of runtime! If I ever outlast my 4400... I'll buy one of those. The price sure is right.

  105. #105
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    Thanks a lot for the additional information! One other question... the batteries say that they have a protection circuit built in to save the batteries from over discharge. What will happen when the batteries start running low? Will the light gradually dim until it goes out? Will that ruin the batteries? Also, I used one of the run time calculators I found online and it said that I would gat a little over 2 hours of runtime for the 2200 mah battery and about double for the 4400 mah battery... does that sound about right?

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamen00
    Thanks a lot for the additional information! One other question... the batteries say that they have a protection circuit built in to save the batteries from over discharge. What will happen when the batteries start running low? Will the light gradually dim until it goes out? Will that ruin the batteries?
    I haven't tested with that battery yet but I believe the protection circuit will just shut off. The light will just go out when the battery gets below the cut off voltage. The protection circuit keeps the battery from over discharging so the battery won't get destroyed. Lithium batteries are picky about overcharge and discharge. The protection circuit also keeps the battery from burning up if the battery were to short out.

    Quote Originally Posted by tamen00
    Also, I used one of the run time calculators I found online and it said that I would gat a little over 2 hours of runtime for the 2200 mah battery and about double for the 4400 mah battery... does that sound about right?
    I think your calculations sound about right. I plan on using the 7.4v 4400mah battery with two lights. I calculate a little over two hours with two running at 1000ma.

    I've been using 4AA 2650mah batteries on each light and I get 2.5 hrs runtime.

  107. #107
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    I was thinking about using a flashlight body like this:

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1255

    to build a similar light. I like that it has a decent switch built in.
    The aluminum body on this light seems a little thin, though. Do you think that will pose a problem? The filed down copper plug fits inside ok and I have other parts on the way from HK.

  108. #108
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    I don't know much about the boards used to power the lights, but this is what I want to use. Please tell me if you see any problems.

    <a href="http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394">Cree XR-E Q5 Emitter on Premium Star (228LM at 1A)</a>

    <a href="http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=1488">8 Degree CREE XR-E Collimator Lens w/ Holder</a>

    <a href="http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=218">D ownboy 400mA Stepdown Converter Board-Rev. 3</a>

    I also have questions about batteries.

    <a href="https://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1600">
    4 Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600 mAh Rechargeable Batteries with Internal PCB</a>

    or this?

    <a href="http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-3100HV-74-Pack.htm"> http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-3100HV-74-Pack.htm</a>

    If I use the AA batteries should I get a diffrent board since they have an automatic cut off?

  109. #109
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    4 tenergy li-ion is the way to go. Safer than the lipo. It is not an AA battery but an 18650 cell which is fatter and longer. Dont remove the board. Dont forget to get the charger.


    Anyway that is still a lot of battery for only 1 light. Something like 8-10 hrs depending on the board efficiency.

  110. #110
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    With only 400 mA it is more going to be 25 hours, I would push the led to 1A and use a 2 cell li-ion battery. (runtime will be at least 4 hours). You'd need to choose a batterypack that is wired in series (so it gives 7.4V nominal).

  111. #111
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    Should I be using a diffrent board? Is 400 mA going to be bright enough?

  112. #112
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    My main concern is I want a bright light, that runs cool. I also want a cut off on the batteries so I don't ruin them by running them to long.

    I understand if I have to pay a little more for quality.

    What do you suggest for board and batteries?

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by thaphillips
    My main concern is I want a bright light, that runs cool. I also want a cut off on the batteries so I don't ruin them by running them to long.

    I understand if I have to pay a little more for quality.

    What do you suggest for board and batteries?
    750mA is a good compromise with very good efficiency but doesn't get that hot. There is no reason to limit yourself to that low brightness. Even with a 2000mAh pack 14.4V, Vf of 3.7V, at 750mA and a driver at 85% efficiency, you can still get almost 9 hours of burn time. If you spend the extra bucks to get a higher capacity pack at 2600mAh, you get ~11.5 hours.
    Long Live Long Rides

  114. #114
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    10. Wire your favorite driver and insert the bar plug.
    11. Put some silicone on the front lens and your done.
    P97Z,

    That is a great light and something I may be able to do.

    I do have a couple of questions if you have the time to respond it would be appreciated.

    1) I do not see where you used any Plexiglas to seal the leans is that not required? If you did how thick can it be without affecting the light distribution.
    2) How far back did you recess the front of the lens? I assume that if it is too far back the light distribution would be affected.


    Thanks for sharing

    Jim

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by qdave
    I was thinking about using a flashlight body like this:

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1255

    to build a similar light. I like that it has a decent switch built in.
    The aluminum body on this light seems a little thin, though. Do you think that will pose a problem? The filed down copper plug fits inside ok and I have other parts on the way from HK.
    I haven't had good luck with flashlights... It may work though. If you try it be sure to let us know.

  116. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by thaphillips
    <a href="http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394">Cree XR-E Q5 Emitter on Premium Star (228LM at 1A)</a>

    <a href="http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=1488">8 Degree CREE XR-E Collimator Lens w/ Holder</a>

    <a href="http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=218">D ownboy 400mA Stepdown Converter Board-Rev. 3</a>


    400ma is not enough current... 750ma or greater would be better... 400ma with a narrow 8 degree spot will probably not work well.

    Quote Originally Posted by thaphillips
    I also have questions about batteries.

    <a href="https://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1600">
    Quote Originally Posted by thaphillips
    4 Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600 mAh Rechargeable Batteries with Internal PCB</a>
    I don't know how you could use them. There is no battery holder that I know of that takes 18650 batteries.

  117. #117
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    400ma is ok. it's great for efficient battery use. but downboy driver Efficiency is only 75%-85% is not good. the difference b/w 500ma and 1000ma is led output b/w 7lux and 9.5lux per led. I got 21.5lux out of Trinewt. my setup was 27lux running 500ma to all 4 led on q5. now it's 37lux running 1000ma. now the bad. the batteries life is cut in half. only gain 35% gain in brightness from 50% more use of battery. most gain is when you power it up to 600ma, then after that it's more energy to heat then lighting up the led. this is the still the best deal and most effecient driver at 90%. I order 60 of them by mistake, was waning to keep it coming until I think I order too much of it.
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

  118. #118
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    60!! Wow! I just got 4 but haven't tried them yet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    60!! Wow! I just got 4 but haven't tried them yet.
    ever mod your maglite with these, went from 3100lux to 17600lux( tested light box) with ssc u-bin driven by these $1.50 driver. I'm mod all my lights and my brother in law's. They love it. 5 times more light( battery last longer as I don't know how long) and you can even control the beam pattern like regular mag lite( 3D or 3C minimum though). depending on what kind of riding you do. we have tight twisty trails here, so I have been switching out lens to suit my trails that I run that night. oval for tight twisty, medium for regular trails and spot for road ride and fast pace dirt logging roads.

  120. #120
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    COPPER is Expensive!

    I just went to Lowes and looked at the 8' section of Aluminum and I thought the price was like the 10-$15 range (I don't remember) But I could not find the Nibco 3/4"plug even with help.
    I went over to Home Depot and they had 4' sections of the aluminum tube and they did have the Nibco fittings, but they were $3.75 each!! I asked if that was right when checking out and the cashier said the price of copper has gone up a lot. I thought they might be $1 or so. I wonder if there is a cheaper option like 3/4" aluminum rod.

    I am thinking of a dual version possibly like the attached, but not sure if there is an advantage other than looks (subjective, I know) vs two separate heads with the o-ring mounting
    -Mike
    Attached Images Attached Images

  121. #121
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    If you could find 3/4 aluminum it should work. I just bought a couple of Nibco plugs last night and they were $3.87 each. For some reason only Home Depot sells them.

    If you have a drill press you could use a 1 inch and 1/8 hole drill bit and make some aluminum plugs.

    I got creative last night and put the switch in the tail cap. I used a plug from a sliding closet door. I'll post some pictures later tonight. You may be able to use the sliding closet door plug...

    I like the look of the double! How do you plan on holding them together? JB Weld?

  122. #122
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    I got creative with the switch. I used a toggle from radio shack and a pull knob from a sliding closet door. The switch is set back to help keep it from the elements.
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  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wadejp
    P97Z,

    That is a great light and something I may be able to do.

    I do have a couple of questions if you have the time to respond it would be appreciated.

    1) I do not see where you used any Plexiglas to seal the leans is that not required? If you did how thick can it be without affecting the light distribution.
    2) How far back did you recess the front of the lens? I assume that if it is too far back the light distribution would be affected.


    Thanks for sharing

    Jim
    Jim, Sorry for the long delay. I just saw this unanswered post.

    I didn't use any Plexiglas. The optic is out in the open. I just used a layer of silicone to keep the water from getting inside. So far it's been trough salt and snow and it's still working great. You want to put if far enough back to put a good layer of silicone on it. If it's too far back then the plug won't fit. I would say it's about 2 mm back.

    Also I found a perfect way to mount the switch. I posted pictures at the end.

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    If you could find 3/4 aluminum it should work. I just bought a couple of Nibco plugs last night and they were $3.87 each. For some reason only Home Depot sells them.
    If you have a drill press you could use a 1 inch and 1/8 hole drill bit and make some aluminum plugs.
    Not following what you mean here...

    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I got creative last night and put the switch in the tail cap. I used a plug from a sliding closet door. I'll post some pictures later tonight. You may be able to use the sliding closet door plug...
    I like the look of the double! How do you plan on holding them together? JB Weld?
    Can you buy replacement pulls like that? Where? What switch is that you are using?
    I was planning on JB weld I think. I tried some destructive testing after curing for 24 hours for 2 pieces of aluminum bonded with JB weld. I had to give it a few good whacks with the hammer do get it to break apart.

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjzraz
    Not following what you mean here...
    If you have a drill press you can use a hole saw like this.

    http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...10000003+90054

    Cut a circle out of some flat aluminum and epoxy it in the tube instead of the copper plug. I think the size you need is an inch and 1/8. You will need to file it down a little to make it fit.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjzraz
    Can you buy replacement pulls like that? Where? What switch is that you are using?
    Home depot has them with the door hardware. You can get them in different colors. They come in packs of four for about $2.50. I don't see them on the HD web site though. I think they will be too thin for the LED though.

    The switch i used is from radio shack. I think this is the one.
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

    I added a piece of heat shrink to keep it protected.

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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I got creative with the switch. I used a toggle from radio shack and a pull knob from a sliding closet door. The switch is set back to help keep it from the elements.

    that looks very professional. you should be able to sell them.... very informative thread...

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    One question: Where does the switch go in the circuit? I'm guessing it would go on the negative lead between the battery and the circuit board. Is that correct?

  128. #128
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    sknhgy,

    Yes, I put the switch on the negative side. I used some multi-mode drivers and change modes by turning the switch on and off.

    Here's some pictures of the the light polished with a black tail cap. I used a black tail to remind me that it has a multi-mode driver.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  129. #129
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    I have a newbie question - does the optics holder just sit on the LED star, the optics inside the holder, and all held together by pressure, or do you have to somehow glue the holder, optics, and star together?

    Nice light BTW.

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    Thanks GeeTeeOhh,

    The holder fits over the star and then I use some silicone to hold it in place. There is enough room for the wires and glue. Then the lens snaps into the holder and then I use more silicone on the front to hold the lens. The silicone also keeps the front water tight.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  131. #131
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    Thanks for the pictures - helps me out a lot. Is the copper plug a plumbing item? I have never seen one of them at HD.

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    Yes, the copper plug is kept with the rest of the plumbing. Both HD's I checked, it was on the bottom shelf. The newer style plugs need little filing to make them fit.

    Also, The best file for making the rubber band groves is a small chain saw sharpening file.

  133. #133
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    I found some plastic "O" rings at Claire's in the mall! They are not a stretchy as rubber ones but they still seem to work. They come in a pack of 10 and cost $3.25...
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  134. #134
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    Like the tail cap design. I stretched a couple of #9 o-rings from the plumbing dept around the inside of the cap to seal it inside the AL tube. Nice, tight fit.

    Also got a bag of mixed size rubber grommets @ Radio Shack and used the smallest ones to seal where the wire goes through the tail cap. Looks identical to yours.

    Waiting on optics to complete.

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    UpRocks, I tried an o-ring from a mini mag but it was a little too small. Did you glue the tail cap or just press it in?

  136. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    UpRocks, I tried an o-ring from a mini mag but it was a little too small. Did you glue the tail cap or just press it in?
    No need to glue. It is a tight fit. Three o-rings is tighter than two.

    Couple of points.
    I expect that because of variations in wall thickness between tubing sources, the best o-ring choice would also vary. The tubing I am using has a 1.2X mm wall thickness. The Plumbing Dept @ Home Depot has a great variety of o-ring sizes to try before making a selection.

    Because of the shape of the tail cap, the first o-ring will only butt up against the rim of the tubing. It's the second (and/or third) that actually makes the internal seal.

    Too small, and the o-rings are really tough to stretch around the tailcap…especially with the switch installed. Too large, and the o-ring doesn’t thin out enough to fit inside the tube when stretched.

  137. #137
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    Great advice! I'll give it a try on my next one!

    You should probably put the plug and lens in first though. If the tail cap is in place the force of the wires may push the lens and plug forward while drying.

  138. #138
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    Good point. If there is a good side to slow component delivery, it is allowing time to fine tune the design.

    Pics of the o-ring/door handle end cap. Cap removal is not fingernail friendly...
    Attachment 336127
    Last edited by UpRocks; 08-21-2009 at 09:53 PM.

  139. #139
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    That looks great! I have had problems using silicone… If I don’t wait long enough for the silicone to dry the plug can move and become off center.

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    How is this light wired up? What I mean is, how are the connections made between the LED, the circuit board, and the battery? How is the circuit board connected into the circuit?
    I'm going bananas trying to figure this out.

  141. #141
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    sknhgy, How the board is wired depends on the driver. The driver board will have a positive and negative wire that connects to the LED. Once you connect the LED then you will need a positive and negative for the battery. The back side of the board will contain a + and - for the battery. Every driver board is different so it's hard to describe. You have to be careful not to wire the connections backwards. If you wire anything incorrectly then chances are the driver will burn up... Which driver are you using?

  142. #142
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    Guys, I already have 2 cree q bins gathering dust on the shelf. Is there an optic that will fit in this housing for a flood light? Would these fit ?

    http://www.ledsupply.com/optx.php

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    thebronze, Those are too big. I think they are over 30mm. I made one with a 17mm cree reflector but it's still too spotty for my taste. I would also like to know of a good 20mm CREE flood optic!

  144. #144
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    OK, so I finally have a couple of these lights completed, and learned some very valuable lessons, and have a few burned up parts to prove it...

    First off, this was a very easy project thanks to the instructions and guidence from p97z... you are the man!! Second thing, the parts take forever to get in the mail!! OK, so now on to the "lessons learned".

    OK, all-battery.com is a nightmare. Ordered 2 2200 mah 7.4 v li-ion batteries, two 4400 mah 7.4 Li-ion batteries, and a charger. Received the first order 1 month later after several calls, and only one 2200 mah battery was in the package. Still calling and they are sending them piece by piece, however they have since discontinued the 4400 mah batteries and have had to make substitutions... also, one of the batteries I received was dead, will not take a charge. This has been a 2+ month ordeal and it is still going... Rant over...

    Next, the deal extreme cheap drivers (4 for $6.44) really do not like the 7.4v batteries. I burned several of them up "experimenting". I finally figured out that some of them will push the led well over 1100 mah with the 7.4 v battery. This was causing everything to heat up and cook all the parts. I tested the remaining driver boards, and used the ones that were only putting out 1000 mah or less, and everything works fine now. The remaining boards seem to work fine with 4AA batteries, so that is what I am using them for. I am also going to work on the board mod for lowering the current to 800 mah. Lesson here... get a voltage/current meter and test those out...

    Heatsinking is super important!! I underestimated the importance of this in the first couple of lights. I was not able to locate the brass plug at lowes or homedepot, so I tried a couple of other things. The first led worked for a little while, then quit... I could not figure it out. I pried it off the heatsink and discovered the bottom was not completly covered with AAA... big mistake. I then started to make my own heatsinks... I took Aluminum barstock, turned it down to fit inside the tube, and now have a heatsink that is 1" solid aluminum AAA to the inside of the tube... works perfect. Lesson learned... have a really good heatsink and make sure everything fits tight!!

    Next thing, the O-Ring mounting system works excellent on the handlebar. I found a small cell phone case that the batteries fit in that velcro's to the stem... that mounting system is solved. Helmet mounting.. that is another story... I really did not have a good way to mount to a helmet... so just to try it out, I zip tied it to my helmet (ghetto, I know), however that worked excellent!! I have an extra helmet that I am going to Zip tie the light on, and just leave it (they are cheap enough to build I can just make an extra and stick it on there). I am also going to zip tie the battery case on the helmet as well... One of the great things about that is, once you have it on the helmet and zip tied, the thing does not move, wobble, the cables do not flop around, and it is light!! I race mostly 24 hour solo races/etc... so I always have a second helmet set up for night anyway... Lesson learned... Ghetto mounting worked great.

    OK, so I started to use the light... pretty bright for one led (seoul SSC P4) I have been using it on my raod bike for training rides/etc. The light is not as white as an HID, but not bad. I then put it on my helmet, used it with my HID, and it was awesome!! I could not believe how well the thing works. I was at the Old Pueblo race this weekend and visited the niterider booth (I had the light in my pocket) They were showing their latest and greatest lights... the Dual minewt thing, SOL, and some of the others. It was night out so we compared those lights to this homebrew job.... It was way brighter and had a better beam pattern than any of their LED lights (Except Trinewt of course), and did not cost 200+ dollars. It also has a way longer burntime than any of their lights on high... pretty cool. Ayup was also there, and same thing... a lot brighter and a way better beam pattern (the Ayups have a ton of rings in the beam)

    So, now I need to order some more parts (I am going to try different drivers at 800 mah unless I can mod the deal extreme ones...) and build a few more of these things for some of the people that I ride with. This is probably the same story for many of the other people on the board... Thanks again for all the help and the inspiration to tackle this project!!

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    Thanks for the update tamen00!

    I have also learned a few lessons. I don't like to bad mouth companies but I also had a bad experience with all-battery.com. I ordered the beginning of January and still haven't gotten what I ordered (long story).

    I ordered some multi-mode drivers and they haven't been working well. I think you get what you pay for with drivers. I have had the best luck with taskled drivers and sandwich shoppe drivers. I know they cost more but sometimes it's worth the extra cash.

    LED's from DX are a little on the blue side for my taste. I have had the best luck with LED's from PhotonFanatic over at CPF. They are $11.00 but I get them in 2 days. Depending on the bin they are nice and white (compared to DX). Also he sells Khatod reflectors that make a great flood. I have only tried the smooth but so far I like them.

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    Tamen.

    Great run down - thanks.

    I'm also planning on building a couple of these but like you cannot find the plugs. (I live in OZ and our version of Lowes/Home Depot does not seem as well stocked as the ones in the US). BUT a mate has a lathe and some Al rod so I was also thinking of getting him to turn me up a few plug heat sinks. What length did you run with. Its probably not critical anyway - but it's always nice to know what others have done. Any help appreciated.

    Cheers.

    PS - I'm also going to use the cheap DX drivers using 4 x 4500mAh sub C NIMH, (4.8V), so battery feedback is interesting.

  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    thebronze, Those are too big. I think they are over 30mm. I made one with a 17mm cree reflector but it's still too spotty for my taste. I would also like to know of a good 20mm CREE flood optic!
    Turns out they are 26mm OD, or 1.02". So the 1" tubing wont work, you'd have to get 1.5" and then use a bigger brass plug, 1.25". Even then those optics have clip ons that kind of muck up the measurements. Theres got to be some 20mm Cree optics out there for a flood.

  148. #148
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    I actually did not measure the length of the heatsink, but I think it was around an inch.. I made one a little less than half an inch and it was not enough...

    Also, the DX cheap drivers have worked fantastic at 4.8 volts for me... the issues have come when I tried to use them with the Li-Ion 7.4 v battery pack.

  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebronze
    Turns out they are 26mm OD, or 1.02". So the 1" tubing wont work, you'd have to get 1.5" and then use a bigger brass plug, 1.25". Even then those optics have clip ons that kind of muck up the measurements. Theres got to be some 20mm Cree optics out there for a flood.
    I'm afraid the plugs are tough to find in different sizes.

    I have tried those optics and there are all kinds of artifacts in the beam. When you add the diffusers the artifacts go away but you loose a lot of light. The best thing to do with those cree led's is to buy some 8 degree spot optics and use them as helmet lights. That's what did and it worked out great.

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    Thanks Tamen - an inch it is.

    In terms of batteries - when you do the sums, 4 x 4500mAh sub C';s are a pretty decent option for these lights. Relatively cheap, packs are easy to make yourself, chargers are cheap, at 4500mAH they are not that much bigger than lithium in terms of energy v size v weight and they are safer than lithium chemistry. I'm using a lithium battery for my HID but will run the LEDS using 4.8V NIMH packs and see how they go.

  151. #151
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    Do you guys know if you can modify the L2 20mm optics to fit on a Cree? It looks the you would just need to shape the optic holder a little to fit the larger LED.

    Oh yeah, if you need a battery, check ebay for all-batteries items. They seem to be a few dollars cheaper then what's on their website. I think the 3.7v li ion 4400 mah was $13.

  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by plasticmann
    Tamen.

    PS - I'm also going to use the cheap DX drivers using 4 x 4500mAh sub C NIMH, (4.8V), so battery feedback is interesting.

    I have learned from various forum posts that the cheap drivers, particularly those with the AMD7135 chip, can overheat if they are driven at too high a voltage
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=188470
    In my limited experience with this driver: http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=2958
    I have avoided heat problems by keeping the battery voltage less than 1V more than the Vf

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebronze
    Do you guys know if you can modify the L2 20mm optics to fit on a Cree? It looks the you would just need to shape the optic holder a little to fit the larger LED.

    Oh yeah, if you need a battery, check ebay for all-batteries items. They seem to be a few dollars cheaper then what's on their website. I think the 3.7v li ion 4400 mah was $13.
    I don't think you can modify an L2 to work... I tried and ended up with an ugly beam. I used a drill bit so maybe there is a better way...

    I use one of those batteries on my helmet with a q5 cree and 8 degree optics. I get 4.5 hrs run time using a buck boost.

  154. #154
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    Optic Holder Mod?

    Just a thought here about mixing an XRE with an L2 optic…

    It looks like the XRE emitter sits flush inside the L2 optic with the holder omitted.

    The obvious compatibility issue is the round base of the optic vs. the rectangular base of the emitter.

    Does anyone have an educated guess at the results I would get from trimming the round “hole” in the base of the holder into a rectangle to mate with the emitter base (fit and/or light dispersion)? Anyone tried it yet or have another suggestion?

    It takes so long to get components that I hate to generate any scrap, but I’m also not sure I want my R2s stuck with 8° optics.

    Attachment 337853

    edit: note to self...read recent posts before posting identical questions.
    Last edited by UpRocks; 08-21-2009 at 09:53 PM.

  155. #155
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    UpRocks,

    tamen00 found these on CPF.

    http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=175502

    The round ones should fit! I think brum is also a member here.

  156. #156
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    Thanks p97z and tamen00.

    Ordered. They ship tomorrow. Thanks Bram!

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    UpRocks,

    Post some beam shots when you get them. Looks like some R2's and optics my be my next purchase!

  158. #158
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    I was looking at the Cutter website and it looks like there are several different optics that would work with the cree leds and fit into our DIY Dinotte lights... however they are expensive!! Has anyone tried any of these optics, and can you recommend one over the other? Here are the links to the ones in question....

    Carclo: 20 mm Come in 8.4 degree, 10.4 degree, 25 degree, and 41x10.4 degree... These are like 8 bucks a piece with a holder... any comments on how well they work.. and someplace else to get them that is cheaper?

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail....=cut687&cat=33

    Cree XRE Optic Part #XLSL-7090-247

    I think this is the 8 degree optic that p97z has been using... on cutter it is 2.95 with holder...

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut680

    Fraen Cree XRE Optics: come in narrow, medium, wide. Looks like about 200 mm optic. about 3.95 without holder

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail....=cut679&cat=33

    Fraen Low Profile FC Series: come in several different beam patterns and will fit in our housings... 4.59 with holder...

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut768

    Khatod: Narrow beam, 12 degree... about 12 bucks US... The second link is for some different Khatod optics that are 40 and 30 degree... too much spread probably

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut745
    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail....=cut754&cat=33

    Also, there are the candlepower forums optcs from Brum... Ledil optics in like 3 different beam patterns for 3.75

    http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=175502


    So, if anyone has any feedback on the above optics, or someplace else to buy them, that would be great... If you think we should start a new thread with this info... I can do that as well. I looked through and there really is not a good thread for round Cree 20 mm optics and sources to get them....

  159. #159
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    At one point I bought two of every cree 20mm Carclo from Cutter. I purchased some LED's and optics. After a couple months I finally canceled the order. In the end it ended up costing me about $7.00 because the exchange rate went down. Cutter lists items that are not currently in stock.. Also, some companies charge for items when the order ships and others charge before the order ships...

    PoorBarDog put up shots of a lot of different optics.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...66875#poststop

    However it looks like there are some new optics since the last thread.

  160. #160
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    Guys I cant find the aluminum pipe in Home Depot. Is it in the hardware aisle, the electrical/conduit section, or the plumbing section by the nibco plug?

    Cutter optics are too expensive and the shipping was another $15, I decided to go with the L2's.

  161. #161
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    My Home depot did not have the aluminum pipe either. I found it at Ace Hardware and also at Lowes (10 or 11 bucks for 6 feet I think). The aluminum pipe that I bought and made my first couple of lights out of had too thin of wall thickness to make good handlebar and O-Ring indentations. I took my optics to a local steel yard and they had a few different sizes and pieces of aluminum.

    I ended up getting a piece that the optics fit tighter than the home depot pipe, and the wall was 2X as thick as the home depot aluminum. While I was there I also picked up some solid aluminum barstock that fit on the inside of the pipe to use in place of the Nibco plug. This was more expensive than the home depot pipe, but the barstock was cheaper than the Nibco plugs, so it offset the cost.

    The aluminum pipe was 18 bucks for 3 (18 housings) feet and the barstock was 8 bucks for 1.5 feet (16 heatsinks). The light head becomes a little heavier due to the increased wall thickness, but the optics fit with a lot tighter tolerances, and I can put a pretty big groove in it for the handlebar. Also, If I can figure out how to do it, it is thick enough to machine grooves in it for additional heatsinking.

    Anyway, have fun with the light... they do work awesome and are really fun to build. Thanks to p97z for the excellent idea and instructions. My current set up is 2 on the handlebar (like a Niterider Dual X2) and one on the helmet... works great for mtn biking!!

  162. #162
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    uber newbie

    I am not electronically inclined, at all. My brother is however, and he'll hlep figure some things out. The one question that I can't seem to find in this forum is whether or not I can make one of the DIY dinotte style lights that will come close to the 600L in brightness. And, if not, will two lights that emit 228 lumens produce 456 lumens or is it not quite additive?
    thanks for any patience you can afford
    Cycle tracks will abound in Utopia. ~H.G. Wells

  163. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebronze
    Guys I cant find the aluminum pipe in Home Depot. Is it in the hardware aisle, the electrical/conduit section, or the plumbing section by the nibco plug?

    Cutter optics are too expensive and the shipping was another $15, I decided to go with the L2's.
    I got the aluminum pipe from Lowes, and the Nibco plug from Home Depot. The aluminum pipe was in with the rest of the steel and aluminum pieces but I don't remember which section. The Nibco plug was in the plumbing department.

    The L2 optics won't disappoint you!

  164. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebronze
    Guys I cant find the aluminum pipe in Home Depot. Is it in the hardware aisle, the electrical/conduit section, or the plumbing section by the nibco plug?
    It's nowhere in the 3 Home Depots and 2 Lowes's's's's's's in my area.

    I ended up ordering it through McMaster Carr through our account at work.

    -uprocks

  165. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by chumbacabra
    And, if not, will two lights that emit 228 lumens produce 456 lumens or is it not quite additive?
    thanks for any patience you can afford
    From my understanding, the effects of adding a second unit are additive. In the LED shootout, take the 200L vs. 200L dual for example.
    On our ambient light meter measurements, the Dinotte 200L came in at 16 Lux. The 200L dual measured in at 32 Lux.
    The lux measurements cannot be directly compared to lumen measurements, but the point is, that in the test that they ran, the output was additive.
    When under pressure, your level of performance will sink to your level of preparation.

  166. #166
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    I think rkj__ is right. In theory lumens add up with the number of led's. So you could make a 600 lumen light using three 200 lumen led's.

    I ride with two of these on the bar and one on my helmet. Each running at 1000ma for 240 lumens. In theory 720 lumens.

  167. #167
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    I had some problems with the radio shack toggle switch. The first switch couldn't take the heat of the soldering iron and the second lasted for about a week. Radio Shack replaced the metal toggle switches with plastic ones. The case is made of plastic and the toggle is still metal. They don't hold up well at all. Because I had two failures a fellow co-worker talked me into making a push button switch. The push button should be a little more water proof. Here's a finished picture. The push button also works better with multi-mode drivers.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  168. #168
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    how about this led?

    Can this LED work? Maybe a problem with fitting in the aluminum piping? or optics wont work? or heat dissipation will be a problem?
    http://www.ledsupply.com/07007-pwc-10-3.php
    Sorry
    Last edited by GhisalloWheels; 03-07-2008 at 10:04 AM.
    Cycle tracks will abound in Utopia. ~H.G. Wells

  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by chumbacabra
    Can this LED work? Maybe a problem with fitting in the aluminum piping? or optics wont work? or heat dissipation will be a problem?
    Can you post a link to the LED?

  170. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I had some problems with the radio shack toggle switch. The first switch couldn't take the heat of the soldering iron and the second lasted for about a week. Radio Shack replaced the metal toggle switches with plastic ones. The case is made of plastic and the toggle is still metal. They don't hold up well at all. Because I had two failures a fellow co-worker talked me into making a push button switch. The push button should be a little more water proof. Here's a finished picture. The push button also works better with multi-mode drivers.
    Any tips on how you made that switch?

  171. #171
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    chumbacabra, I can't wait for some optics for the Endor Star LED.

    http://www.ledsupply.com/07007-pwc-10-3.php

    To use it, you would need a 14.4v battery or a smaller battery and a boost regulator. I'm also not sure how much surface area you would need to cool it. You could also just dim the light down when you are not moving. I think as long as air is moving, this housing would be Ok.

    The only thing keeping me from trying this LED is the lack of optics. In a couple of months there will probably be a bunch of options.

    hillbilly_hank, I can post some pictures how to make that switch later tonight.

  172. #172
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    I made the push button tail switch using a switch from digikey.

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...?name=519PB-ND

    Silicone tail caps from DX.

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5742

    The housing is the sliding closet door plug from Home Depot.

    To get the silicone cap to fit over the switch you need to file the corners of the switch and then cut the nub on the inside of the silicone cap. Once the cap fits on the switch you need to file the back of the door plug so the contacts fit through the back. Run a bead of silicone around the cap and your done. Also after it's wired I squirt some silicone on the connections to water proof it.

    Here's a water proof tail switch. It's been trough snow and salt and still works great...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  173. #173

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    Anyone interested in a machined Dinotte Style housing?
    Last edited by rottweiler; 03-09-2008 at 03:26 PM.

  174. #174
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    I could be, what do you have in mind?

  175. #175

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    Exactly as the Dinotte..same size, lighter and instead of holes, I will cut slots for increased surface area.

    US$45 shipped inclusive of Body (6061 T6), Brezel and Tailcap (either 6061 T6 or Delrin White). I will throw in switches, screws and gromet. Machined to fit star pcb and Carlo 20mm optic..

    Can machine just about any design as long as you provide drawing and dimension..add US$10 for 28mm diameter X 56mm length in your design but if it is easy...same price.

    Pm me with your email address for pic of complete housing.



    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I could be, what do you have in mind?

  176. #176
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    rottweiler,

    Thanks! However, I don't think I'm interested. These are cheap and easy to make. I can't see spending that much. I'm sure that the housing would look better but after a few rides in the snow and salt they all look dirty anyway. Also, at that price I couldn't afford to give them away to my friends.

    Thanks again!

  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I made the push button tail switch using a switch from digikey.

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...?name=519PB-ND

    Silicone tail caps from DX.

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5742

    The housing is the sliding closet door plug from Home Depot.

    To get the silicone cap to fit over the switch you need to file the corners of the switch and then cut the nub on the inside of the silicone cap. Once the cap fits on the switch you need to file the back of the door plug so the contacts fit through the back. Run a bead of silicone around the cap and your done. Also after it's wired I squirt some silicone on the connections to water proof it.

    Here's a water proof tail switch. It's been trough snow and salt and still works great...
    I ordered some of these with my led's and stuff... http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5602

    When it all gets here and I start working on them I'll if they will work. I've also got some ideas for cooling slots and a DIY metal lathe to help dress it up. If the lathe works I'll post how to build it.

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillbilly_hank
    I ordered some of these with my led's and stuff... http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5602

    When it all gets here and I start working on them I'll if they will work. I've also got some ideas for cooling slots and a DIY metal lathe to help dress it up. If the lathe works I'll post how to build it.
    Looks like those switches should work fine. I'm interested to see what you came up with! I tried using a drill as a lathe but it didn't work. It did however work great for polishing!

    I can't wait to see your results!

  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    Looks like those switches should work fine. I'm interested to see what you came up with! I tried using a drill as a lathe but it didn't work. It did however work great for polishing!

    I can't wait to see your results!
    Sounds like you have already tried what I wanted to do. What didn't work about it?

  180. #180
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    I tried a threaded rod being held by the chuck and then a nut with a washer at the other end. I could never center it and any force would push it and make it wobble. The next method that I currently use is a rubber piece with a nut that tightens. The piece of rubber presses against the aluminum but still can get off center. The rubber piece with a threaded rod works great for polishing. I can make a polished housing in under 10 mins. I can post some pictures later tonight.

  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I tried a threaded rod being held by the chuck and then a nut with a washer at the other end. I could never center it and any force would push it and make it wobble. The next method that I currently use is a rubber piece with a nut that tightens. The piece of rubber presses against the aluminum but still can get off center. The rubber piece with a threaded rod works great for polishing. I can make a polished housing in under 10 mins. I can post some pictures later tonight.
    I was hoping to find a rubber stopper that would fit inside the housing and drill a hole through it. Then I'd put a threaded rod through it with nuts and washers on either side of the stopper. Hopefully I can crank the nuts down tight enough to expand the washer and hold the housing tight. I think it's good in theory but we'll see how it works in practice.

  182. #182
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    hillbilly_hank, It could work if you can keep the aluminum tight against the drill head. I could only tighten the rubber stopper from the end that goes into the chuck. Because I could only tighten it from the same end that goes into the chuck, it would wobble whenever I tried to put pressure on it. If you could get a 2 inch piece of rubber that fits the inside of the housing it could also work. I'm sure there is a way to make it work...

  183. #183
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    Hey Hillbilly and p97z... we are all living in different places trying exactly the same things at the same time... crazy. I have tried the all- thread rubber stopper thing, and a couple of the other ideas, however I sill can not figure out how to do it and make it come out looking good without buying expensive tools...

    Also, p97z, nice job on the switch... I ordered some of the pushbutton ones from digikey with the rubber boot and they look pretty decent sticking out the back... waterproof also!

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamen00
    Hey Hillbilly and p97z... we are all living in different places trying exactly the same things at the same time... crazy. I have tried the all- thread rubber stopper thing, and a couple of the other ideas, however I sill can not figure out how to do it and make it come out looking good without buying expensive tools...

    Also, p97z, nice job on the switch... I ordered some of the pushbutton ones from digikey with the rubber boot and they look pretty decent sticking out the back... waterproof also!
    It's funny we all have the same idea's... Great minds think a like, we must be on the right track!

    I'm amazed at how waterproof this light is. I've made a couple other designs and they end up fogging and just can't hold up to the weather. They have been through snow, rain, mud, salt.. I thought my helmet light had stopped working once but it turned out to be packed in snow. Snow got packed solid on top and around it blocking the light. Just removed the snow and found it was still working and bright as can be.

  185. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    It's funny we all have the same idea's... Great minds think a like, we must be on the right track!

    I'm amazed at how waterproof this light is. I've made a couple other designs and they end up fogging and just can't hold up to the weather. They have been through snow, rain, mud, salt.. I thought my helmet light had stopped working once but it turned out to be packed in snow. Snow got packed solid on top and around it blocking the light. Just removed the snow and found it was still working and bright as can be.
    p97z,

    This is a great design thanks for sharing it.

    I am a little confused if you used lens covers or if you just used silicone on the lens themselves and still got this remarkable weather proof light.

    Thanks

    Jim

  186. #186
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    Hi Wade! The lenses are just siliconed in the housing, there is no lens cover (correct me if I am wrong or if you are doing something different p97z) Also, if anyone is ordering switches from digikey... they have the ledil lenses and holders for the SSC P4 leds, and they are pretty cheap... just a thought if you are doing an digikey order.

    I have decided on my light setup finally. I am going to have two of these on the bar, and one on the helmet. This setup seems to work very well for singletrack and also wide open fire roads.

    The two on the bar will be run off of one battery and one switch, mounted on either side of the stem. This is my question... I would really like to continue to use the 7.4v batteries. Should each light head be its own self contained unit with its own driver/etc., just wired to the switch individually, or would it be better to run both lights off the same driver and have the leds wired in series? Also, would it be a problem to run 2 of the light heads off the same battery (I do not see and issue, however the runtime would be cut in half)? I really want to have both of these running off the same switch... I have no need for multi-modes, the ability to turn one off, or make it blink or anything like that.

    For the helmet mounted light, I have night helmet, so the light head and pouch for the battery is mounted permanently. I have also come up with a remote pushbutton switch that will be mounted to the side of the helmet so I can turn it on and off easily. I do a lot of 24 hour solo races, so I need to be able to easily turn the light on and off to go through the transition tents.

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wadejp
    p97z,

    This is a great design thanks for sharing it.

    I am a little confused if you used lens covers or if you just used silicone on the lens themselves and still got this remarkable weather proof light.

    Thanks

    Jim
    Thanks Wadejp... It is waterproof using just the lens with no cover. Just make sure the silicone covers the lip where the lens snaps into the holder. I will make one suggestion however. With the salt and snow the lens can get blocked like I mentioned. Sometimes I need to wipe it with my glove to keep it clean. Over time I can see the plastic lens getting scratched by the repeated wiping. If you are worried about exposing the lens to the elements you could put a clear piece of glass over the front. It's also easy to change optics by pealing off the silicone and popping the lens out of the holder.

    Another thing I forgot to mention is the power cord. I use a rubber grommet then put silicone over the hole after the cord is through.

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamen00
    if anyone is ordering switches from digikey... they have the ledil lenses and holders for the SSC P4 leds, and they are pretty cheap... just a thought if you are doing an digikey order.
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by tamen00
    I have decided on my light setup finally. I am going to have two of these on the bar, and one on the helmet. This setup seems to work very well for singletrack and also wide open fire roads.

    The two on the bar will be run off of one battery and one switch, mounted on either side of the stem. This is my question... I would really like to continue to use the 7.4v batteries. Should each light head be its own self contained unit with its own driver/etc., just wired to the switch individually, or would it be better to run both lights off the same driver and have the leds wired in series? Also, would it be a problem to run 2 of the light heads off the same battery (I do not see and issue, however the runtime would be cut in half)? I really want to have both of these running off the same switch... I have no need for multi-modes, the ability to turn one off, or make it blink or anything like that.

    For the helmet mounted light, I have night helmet, so the light head and pouch for the battery is mounted permanently. I have also come up with a remote pushbutton switch that will be mounted to the side of the helmet so I can turn it on and off easily. I do a lot of 24 hour solo races, so I need to be able to easily turn the light on and off to go through the transition tents.
    Two on the bar and one on the helmet works for me. I would run a driver in each light. You can run them both off the same battery and put a switch in the cord. Don't put them in series because it will decrease the brightness. How did you make the remote switch? Can you use the same idea for the bar lights?

  189. #189
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    The remote switch is just one of the cheap digikey pushbutton switches with flying leads. I just ran the leads outside of the housing, and then mounted it with velcro to the side of the helmet. The switch is self contained with a square plastic housing, and there is a rubber boot that goes on the button as well. The switch looks pretty waterproof, however i covered the thing with silicone and then put shrink wrap on the outside, and then siliconed the rubber boot on it. I know it is waterproof now because I submerged it in the sink overnight and it still worked the next day just fine I think they are exactly the same switch the old niterider halogens used to use... remember that red remote handlebar switch?? this would also work fine for a remote handlebar switch... wait, maybe I will do that... They can be found on the digikey site at:

    http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T081/1968-1982.pdf

    I have also used the same switch in the housing on one of the lights. It was a little bit of a tight fit, however it works just fine. Best part, the switches are pretty cheap... we will see how long they last.

    This year I am going to be going to the 24 hour Solo world championships and make a run at the singlespeed class... so p97z, your design will be used at a world championship race The nice part is that I have two identical bikes for the races, so I am building sets that will go on both bikes so I do not have to worry about having my mechanic move lights around or put them on the bike when nighttime rolls around. I really would not have been able to afford to have enough lights, batteries, etc to do this without your design and guidance... so thanks a lot!!!

  190. #190
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    customizing an old dinotte light?

    I have an old 200L light engine. Could I put one of the Endor Star 300 ( http://www.ledsupply.com/07007-pwc-10-3.php ) in this housing. I am assuming that I would need a new driver and optics. But is there other issues I don't understand?
    Cycle tracks will abound in Utopia. ~H.G. Wells

  191. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamen00
    The remote switch is just one of the cheap digikey pushbutton switches with flying leads. I just ran the leads outside of the housing, and then mounted it with velcro to the side of the helmet. The switch is self contained with a square plastic housing, and there is a rubber boot that goes on the button as well. The switch looks pretty waterproof, however i covered the thing with silicone and then put shrink wrap on the outside, and then siliconed the rubber boot on it. I know it is waterproof now because I submerged it in the sink overnight and it still worked the next day just fine I think they are exactly the same switch the old niterider halogens used to use... remember that red remote handlebar switch?? this would also work fine for a remote handlebar switch... wait, maybe I will do that... They can be found on the digikey site at:

    http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T081/1968-1982.pdf

    I have also used the same switch in the housing on one of the lights. It was a little bit of a tight fit, however it works just fine. Best part, the switches are pretty cheap... we will see how long they last.

    This year I am going to be going to the 24 hour Solo world championships and make a run at the singlespeed class... so p97z, your design will be used at a world championship race The nice part is that I have two identical bikes for the races, so I am building sets that will go on both bikes so I do not have to worry about having my mechanic move lights around or put them on the bike when nighttime rolls around. I really would not have been able to afford to have enough lights, batteries, etc to do this without your design and guidance... so thanks a lot!!!
    Thanks for the tip on the switch!

    When is the race? I'll be cheering you on!! Go tamen00, go!!!

    Glad I could help.

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by chumbacabra
    I have an old 200L light engine. Could I put one of the Endor Star 300 ( http://www.ledsupply.com/07007-pwc-10-3.php ) in this housing. I am assuming that I would need a new driver and optics. But is there other issues I don't understand?

    I think it's a little too soon. I don't think there are any optics that will fit yet. Once there are optics, it may work if there is a star in there now. Do you have a picture of the LED without the optic in place?

  193. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I think it's a little too soon. I don't think there are any optics that will fit yet. Once there are optics, it may work if there is a star in there now. Do you have a picture of the LED without the optic in place?

    I'll get a pic. The other issue is the inside diameter is 17.5 mm. If that LED won't work, what is the brightest led on a <17 mm board?
    thanks.
    Cycle tracks will abound in Utopia. ~H.G. Wells

  194. #194
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    At this point a brighter seoul LED. I think they are 240 lumen's at 1000ma. There is not much of a difference. If you wait about 6 months you may have more options. If you want to make it brighter you could make one or more of these lights and ride with two, or three...

  195. #195
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    Thanks for your help,

    Do either of you know what size battery will power two Seouls wired in series for 2-3 hours?

    Thanks in advance

    Jim

  196. #196
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    Here is a runtime calculator... You can put in the number of LED's and the battery size and it will tell you the runtime.

    http://www.jtice.com/led_pro/led_pro.htm

    There is also a discussion in this thread.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=374949

  197. #197
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    will this work with an older dinotte housing

    I would like to use this emitter
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11022
    and this board
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7612

    I am wondering if the switch with the engine will work.
    Any ideas?
    Cycle tracks will abound in Utopia. ~H.G. Wells

  198. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by chumbacabra
    I would like to use this emitter
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11022
    and this board
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7612

    I am wondering if the switch with the engine will work.
    Any ideas?

    If you use that emitter then you would have better soldering skills then me. I haven't used that form factor with a Cree emitter but it looks like it may be a little hard to solder. With a star, if you mess up, you can solder to another set of pads. It doesn't look like they give you much room in case you make a mistake.

    The driver doesn't say what the max voltage is. It looks like 3.7v... a fully charged 3.7v pack is 4.2v. Not sure how well that driver will work.

    Either switch (the toggle or push button) will work with multi mode drivers. To change modes turn the power on and then off within two seconds. I think the push button works a little better for multi-mode drivers but that's just my opinion.

  199. #199
    Vertical Member
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    Jun 2004
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    Thought I would add my .02 since I finally got a couple of these DIYs put together and trail tested. I may post some pics later.

    Couple of quick thoughts:
    - these lights are way easy to build
    - they are also very cheap to build
    - they are also very quick to build
    - optic selection is a PITA
    - collecting components from so many sources is a PITA
    - no real need to "groove" the housing for the o-ring
    - a longer o-ring shortened with knots in the middle is great if it's what you have lying around at work.
    - the next two I build will use a 3" housing length

    Dinotte is selling a very well-designed product in the 200L, which becomes more evident after trying to duplicate the effectiveness of the 200L. The 200L optic selection is remarkable in its light dispersion. I am very pleased to be using it as a baseline and somewhat displeased that I have not been able to replicate its combination of throw/spill.

    Conclusion:
    - props to Dinotte for setting the bar high with the 200L
    - props to p97z for being so supportive of this project

    ***riding with lights you made yourself doubles your riding pleasure

  200. #200
    mtbr member
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    Dec 2006
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    306
    UpRocks, Thanks for the update and the kind words!

    I'm glad you had success... What optics have you tried? I've had great success with the L2's mentioned above.

    Quote Originally Posted by UpRocks
    ***riding with lights you made yourself doubles your riding pleasure
    You can say that again!!

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