Cutter quad R2 kit questions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Cutter quad R2 kit questions

    Hi guys, I was originally planning on a dodgey double mc-e mounted on a pentium 3 heatsink
    but realized the trouble with mounting and the cost relative to buying a kit.
    So I jumped the gun and got the quad R2 MR-11 maxflex3 boost kit from cutter.

    After calling them about heatsinking, they told me that I cannot mount the maxflex3 inside the back plastic housing.
    Apparently I need to fabricate my own heatsink and enclosure for it
    I'm running it off a 12V dc/dc converter

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
    aka RossC
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    Apparently I need to fabricate my own heatsink and enclosure for it
    I'm running it off a 12V dc/dc converter

    Any ideas?
    How about an old pentium heatsink

    Sorry couldn't resist....

    You need to use a thermal adhesive to bond the PCB to a heat sink. The heat sink needs to make a good thermal pathway to the housing. Your best bet is to make everything out of Aluminium due to its relatively good heat conduction properties.

    Check out the DIY dinotte thread, you may well be able to upscale the design to fit MR11 size. Otherwise, I am completely out of ideas and hope someone else has more to offer.

  3. #3
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    To clarify, you bought their housing and the maxflex cant go in the back bit?
    I thought lots of people would have faced this issue (sorry, my electronics is in the steerer tube). Does it physically fit in there? Shame that end cap isn't aluminium.

  4. #4
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    thanks for the reply guys,
    Physically it fits in there but after talking to mark riley
    from cutter electronics, he said that it needs heatsinking
    and due to the fact that the pad is recessed on the maxflex3
    just slapping it on a heatsink wont work

  5. #5
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    is there a bolt that holds the rear on to the front heatsink
    then you could use a piece of copper fixed to that bolt and glued with thermal epoxy to the maxflex.

    can you put up a pic showing the inside of the plastic bit.

  6. #6
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    You could contact nightlightningnewzealand. I am sure they have an elegant solution as the cutter kits are essentially there lights.

  7. #7
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    Hello Hugoce
    I was in similar problems and have stollen heatsink idea for maxflex from someone here, who used it in torch lamp. Maxflex is glued with thermal glue to heatsink
    You can see it on last picture in my thread
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=482921

  8. #8
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    Hughoce, I have just built a cutter Mr11 quad R2 but even though I made my own housing I just couldn't find a way to Heatsink a maxflex.

    My housing struggles to keep the LED's cool and would get too hot with a red hot driver inside as well. So I went with a bFlex and a 18v battery.

    But Frozen managed to do a good heatsink job with his maxFlex kit. Ihope he doesn't mind me posting his pic but it will give you an idea of what is required.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by yetibetty; 03-23-2009 at 10:22 AM.

  9. #9
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    Great timing Frozen, I type so slow that everything has changed when I get to press submit.

  10. #10
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    Here's the MR11 heatsink with the back plastic part
    The screw that goes into the back of the heatsink is also plastic...
    I have no idea what its for if the maxflex cannot go inside

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...0&id=736791619
    Last edited by Hughoce; 03-10-2009 at 05:29 PM.

  11. #11
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    "You must log in to see this page". Sorry, i do not want facebok

  12. #12
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  13. #13
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    Why dont you switch out your maxflex for a bflex ? Then HSing is not a problem. Just make sure you batt has in excess of about 15V. Cutters will probably allow you to switch it out .

  14. #14
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    i'm running it off a 48v to 12v dc/dc converter
    so it needs to run off 12v

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