Custom nitefighter bt21- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Custom nitefighter bt21

    Ok so everything to do this build should be here this week (ordered custom 17mm driver from mtnelectronics) to rebuild my bt21 that I shorted the driver in shear stupidity....own 2 so killing one wasn't the end of the world.


    So here's the parts going in it:


    17mm mtn-max driver 3.0A, custom modes at 10-40-70-100 with 180sec timer for "turbo" (dont need 100% setting but rarely for short bursts). And 6v cutoff. Timer eliminates need for step down and with custom mount from vancbike thermal on "high" will be fine.


    So 0.3A-1.2A-2.1-3.0A


    Waiting for driver to decide on how switch is going in. Trying to see if I can do a standard flashlight switch remotely.


    Xp-L v6 3c emitters. 1226 @ 10w


    Run cooler than xm-l2 but dome is that of xm-l2 so my optics selection will work perfectly.


    Estimated lumens on high will be around 2000 (emitter rating ideal would be closer 2500 prior to optics) optics pending. Gloworm spot optics should be able to do more over 2k.

    Only mod machining work I have to do is the case where the stock emitter plate sits has to be machined out as 16mm noctigons wont fit stock set up. And made open up switch hole a bit(or close it off completely).

    Then make an aluminum casing to hold the driver that fits the space for the old driver (which is why I chose 17mm driver, easier to build a 2 piece casing so driver has good thermal path)


    This is my "testing electronics" phase as I slowly work on machining my custom head. Problem I have is taskled drivers are huge, beyond difficult to use for compact light heads.

  2. #2
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    Alright get a pic in here. SImple start, mill out the inside of the head for noctigons. CHECK.



    Next up, start machining the casing for the driver, thankfully I have a couple 17mm flashlight drivers in the parts bin, so itll give me reference (their 16.8mm for example) to test fit. BT 21 housing has a 20x20x12 mm cavity for the driver. Goal is to make a 2 piece casing that houses the driver and switch that fits snug but not too much that I can remove if/when needed.

  3. #3
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    Ok driver came today. Its amazing a 17mm flashlight style driver that can do 4 modes all that with much smaller form factor, less components and simpler design.

    Other stuff will be here tomorrow for it (switch emitters etc) and start machining the casing for the driver tomorrow night as well.

  4. #4
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    Taskled Lflex is only 19mm. That can fit into a pretty small design. 3.5A capable too.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  5. #5
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    ill grab one later to try. Thnx for the heads up on size, I thought they were bigger. Still bigger than what I wanted for this purpose and would have been very difficult with my minimal ability to precision machine to make it work. Forget I have a dremel and a wanna be drill press( those cheapy things, got it for free) that uses my regular drill mounted on it.

    Richard got me as a loyal customer after all the help and everything he's given with all this (playing with flashlights too a little). And for $22 for a driver built/programmed exactly how I want... Goes into my "budget build" for this light well.

    I do plan on doing light with a task driver just not yet. This was a good but budget quick fix to get my other bt21 going again.

  6. #6
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    So to see what all the fuss is about the XP-L emitters, I took tthe 2 I got in for this (already on Noctigons) and shoved them in my yinding....

    HOLY SH*&!!

    Yinding 2.5-2.7A
    BT21 2.8-2.9A
    MJ880 Clone boosted 3.1A

    Yinding and bt21 wasnt a huge difference but visable with dual 15deg optics (yeap I even used XM-L2 optics, not ideal but didnt seem to matter). Yinding Came out ON TOP!!! BARELY, very BARELY but Was a "wtf" moment. And BT21 had a GW optic in it with a 15deg next to it.

    So I swapped the optics to match the mj880 clone (dual 45Deg) cause its brighter than anything I own.... Didnt see this coming, WAS AS BRIGHT!!! 500mA less current but visably, you'd think they were the exact same lights side by side.

    Now Im having fun with this, gotta save some more cash cause I want to XP-L my primary lights (other bt21, yinding and MJ880 clone). May even research the P-G2 optic mod and cram 4 in the bt40s.

  7. #7
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    OK after more machining (XP-L idea wasnt working with 45 deg optics, XP-L dome too small, great for spot optics though) I got everything set up and installed. Had to machine the case deeper to make up for extra thickness of noctigons.



    Light output and functionality of this driver is pretty awesome. 2.1A on "high" is plenty for anything, 1.2 on medium for cruising and low is nice and low. "Turbo" which has 180 sec timer (3 mins is more than longest fast decent I have ridden yet but a fair bit) so I dont even have to worry about step down, just does it for me so I dont forget.

    Gotta take a picture of my crappy prototype remote switch. Hacked it out of a chunk of plastic so it will use a magicshine style band to mount to bars. Ill get a pic tomorrow.

    Going to get another driver that works fully off momentary switch (MTN electronics got the firmware set up for me) and fit it to my other bt21. Then when I get my bonus check ordering up my bench top drill press and mill plate to start on the custom head. Running into an issue there, use 3x xp series with those style optics or just 3 single emitters. Thinking the 3x x 3 would be pretty cool since I can keep the current down where it needs to be still but brings up the lumens quite a bit.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    ......Running into an issue there, use 3x xp series with those style optics or just 3 single emitters. Thinking the 3x x 3 would be pretty cool since I can keep the current down where it needs to be still but brings up the lumens quite a bit.
    Depends on what type beam you are after. The 20mm triple optic I played with had very little throw, even though it was the tightest version available at the time. Beyond ~60-70 feet was pretty poorly illuminated IIRC.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  9. #9
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    Ya I have a flashlight build im doing just to play with optics and see how everything works out.

    Also they are carclo optics, so far carclo to me has been less than impressive. They don't even make a good tight spot lens for xml/L2. Their narrow spot is about 20-25 deg.

    Im not sure if ill bother redoing the remote switch set up cause its a flashlight reverse clicky anyway. Looks ghetto but it works well. Trying to "machine" soft plastic is a pain and

  10. #10
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    Right with you on the Carclo stuff, pretty much crap.

    I'm thinking about a new helmet light or remodeling my current one with the XPL high intensity with Ledil Regina reflectors. That seems a very promising combination.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  11. #11
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    Im trying to find options, thought about getting xp-l optics holders and putting XML optics in them. Im gonna check out those reginas too

  12. #12
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    Tigris, would you make good closeup pictures of stock BT21 driver? Now when you have take it out of housing I'm shure is not a problem. Just want to see how it's buit and what elements it is using. As I undestood it does't have reverse polarity protection. Thanks.

  13. #13
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    I dont have a bt21 driver out. This one was from the one I shorted out. I was checking something with my meter and forgot it was plugged into the other end, no reverse polarity protection, it fried.

    I may or may not take the other one back out so I can machine the head to fit XP-Ls (work great with spot optics, seem to throw slightly better) at which point I will try to remember to take pictures

  14. #14
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    Sorry, I dont get it. So you left shorted driver in the housing? I didn't think you would take the working one out. I thought you have taken out the shorted one so taking pictures of that wouldn't be difficult.

  15. #15
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    No I put shorted on in the trash like 2 weeks ago, when I first damaged it. It smelled really bad lol. So I dont have it to take pictures of, even if I did you wouldnt be able to read components, many of them were badly cooked.

  16. #16
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    Ok, to bad. Will have to wait for another opurtunity. Thanks anyway.
    I wouldn't trash that stuff. The switch could be probably used as a spare.

  17. #17
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    It smelled really bad I wanted it gone. Spare components are readily available here so I don't care too much.

  18. #18
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    Here you go ledoman. Best I could do


  19. #19
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    Thanks Tigris, would you send original picture on private so I can magnify it? This is fried one, right? You probably fried diode between coil and IC on the left side.

    Nice to see big yellow Tantalum capacitor. Just can't see is it on input or output side.
    What's on the other side, just the switch and color signaling leds + their resistors?

    Indeed it is different animal that can be seen elswhere. Pretty much stuffed on small place. Still two R100 resistors could be sense resistors. If in parallel then resistance is 0.050 Ohm. Does this tells you anything regarding current used?

  20. #20
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    No that's the good driver, I was trying out xp-l emitters in that light head so I pulled the driver all the way out to take a pic for you. The things that look "fried" have silicone remaining on them is all.

  21. #21
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    heres the picture of my quickly made button housing. Works good just looks like crap lol. But theres how you use a flashlight driver in a bike light head with remote Going to order another driver next week that uses a regular momentary switch. That will go in my other BT21 as a final driver test before I have the ones built for the custom light head.


  22. #22
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    I have these available in black ABS plastic for $17.00 including Grayhill momentary switch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Custom nitefighter bt21-p1020190.jpg  

    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  23. #23
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    Hmm, damn it vanc lol. $17 to save myself the trouble of making a new one!!! Though this driver functions on reverse clicky that will be changing when I get the next driver. This driver will be finding a home in a flashlight Im assuming that housing is fairly water resistance (just in case i get stuck in the rain)? The offset was a nice idea be easier to reach between my remote lockout levers to hit the button.

  24. #24
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    The Grayhill switch is IP67 rated for waterproofing. It has a sealing ring that presses tightly against the housing once the switch is snapped in place. I use "superglue" to seal and secure the cable at the exit.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  25. #25
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    ok sweet. ill be hitting you up probably next week sometime. Need a second bt21 mount too (one like i have is fine, dont need bigger like I thought I would)

  26. #26
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    I'm running a small batch of BT21 adapters this weekend. Design has been tweaked a tiny bit. I'll be posting a picture on the finned adapter post later.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  27. #27
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    Next week I also start my next insane light mod thread. I ran a "test" on the mj880 clone but the details will get its on thread. I couldn't believe the head with other readily available parts did this mod so well with 0 machining (unless I install a custom driver)

  28. #28
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    Hey...I know this is an older thread.

    So I tried to take my BT21 driver out tonight. I couldn't get it out for the life of me. The switch won't clear the housing and gets hung up inside the top switch hole. Is there a trick to this?

    Also, I accidentally pulled out the silicone button on the top. Is there anything I can do to get this back in? I couldnt pry the silver ring off to press it back in either. I hope I didn't just junk my light due to the silicone button removal

  29. #29
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    Tbh, that's why I posted in the beginning not to open up the light if your not experienced in modding.

    Unless you get that ring out or find another button that will fit and seal it, the button problem isn't fixable.

    As for the driver it comes right out but you have to carefully remove the potting compound fro. The bottom of the driver first before you can. The battery cable holds it up and the potting compound is securing the wire in place.

    The driver on these is NOT modifiable without experience and knowledge of how to change several components on the driver board. Current driver won't handle increasing the current output.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  30. #30
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    Try to heatup the light housing and the ring should come out more likely, specialy if you cool it down with some pliers.

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