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Thread: Comb the Air

  1. #1
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    Comb the Air

    I'm not allowed to mountainbike at the moment and my lights are a bit outdated, so I've got all the excuses to built some lights. I don't have any fancy machines like some of you do, so I have to hack out my housings by hand.

    I wanted to try out some of the new leds and drivers. My helmet light should be light and use the airflow to keep it cool.

    bar light:

    Battery: 4S1P 18650 cells
    Driver: Taskled HBFlex (Boost)
    LED: 12S1P x OSRAM Oslon SSL 80 (9 cold white, 4 warm white)
    optic: Osram Sandra 10 (8 times frosted with sand paper)


    I wanted a very good throwng light. These small Oslon leds have a viewing angle of 80 degrees and throw very well, but are not that bright. First I was disapointed with the throw - after I cut the little legs of the optic away the optic went all the way down on the led doome and the throw was much better (and all the rings in the beam disapeared). I frosted the bottom optics to have some light near the bike too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Comb the Air-heatsink.jpg  

    Comb the Air-start.jpg  

    Comb the Air-bar.jpg  

    Comb the Air-battery-connection.jpg  

    Comb the Air-finished.jpg  


  2. #2
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    helmet light

    helmet light:

    Battery: 1P1S on the helmet Panasonic NCR18650GA high drain cell
    Driver: LD-M2 , 8A
    LEDs: 1S2P nichia 219C low Forward leds
    optics: Ledil Tina3-s and 10 Degree 21mm Reflector Collimator LED from LEDDNA

    I tried to use the normal heatsinks so they would comb the cool air to keep the small housing cool.

    Comb the Air-heatsink-fat.jpgComb the Air-heavy.jpgComb the Air-lighter.jpgComb the Air-bellow-100.jpgComb the Air-helmet.jpgComb the Air-only-lighthead.jpg

    The first comb-light I made with XP-L and LD-2 set to 6A was 140g and therefore to heavy for helmet for my liking. So I made a light with a lighter heatsink and no battery holder. I wanted this light to be under 100g, which I just about managed. The light dosen't stay long in regulation of course, but I will only use it to ride down the montains again, which usually dosen't take longer than 20 minutes. The light stays bright enough for 20 minutes - certainly more than 1000 lumens!
    Last edited by mrradlos; 02-24-2016 at 08:37 AM.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the sharing. These look great.

    Tim

  4. #4
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    Awesome DIY work there. That's all out DIY. Info for you though, xp-l hi produces far more lumens than 219c's. 6A (3A each) would give you right about 2000 lumens.

    But I like the tint of 219Cs a lot more. 5000k Xp-l hi are nice but the CRI and less yellow of the 219c is awesome!!!

    So good choice! And awesome work!!! We all start with little, I had a dremel to start with, now just running a cheap bench top drill press, a cheap x/y vise off eBay and cheap mill bits I find on Amazon. The rest is just patience (which sometimes I'm lacking lol)

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Info for you though, xp-l hi produces far more lumens than 219c's. 6A (3A each) would give you right about 2000 lumens.

    But I like the tint of 219Cs a lot more.
    My 219C's are driven at 4A each (8A driver!), so they should produce over 2000 lumens for a short while too. The tint is superb, nice creamy white!

    I used the normal XP-L with the dome, they deliver a bit more lumens, but less throw.

    You have to keep in mind, that the small headlights are only driven by one cell:
    The forward voltage of the XP-L is about 3.6V at 3A
    The forward voltage of the 219C is only 3.4V at 4A

    The new panassonic cell should by able to deliver both for 8 minutes, after that both lights will slowly fall under 2000 lumens (this is before optic an heat loss).


    By the way: I bought a soldering station and a dremel allready, but I'm still far away from a integrating sphere ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    The rest is just patience (which sometimes I'm lacking lol)
    If only I would not have to wear that silly collar (on the pictures), I would really like to hop on my mountainbike and test the lights on the trails. Sadly, I have to wait until bones in my cervical spine are grown togheter again, which is probably not bevor summer ....
    Well, there might be time to make another light / torch?

  7. #7
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    Sphere isn't a big thing, I do testing/reviews for several companies and am a light nerd so I made a sphere (which cost me around $50 going the DIY route).

    Most DIY guys don't have one. Calculating output works quite well. You know how to find all the specs on the emitters and understand how things work from battery to emitter which calculations are easy from there.

    Figure your lumen output, multiple that by .80 (since your using good optics) and final number gives you a really good idea of your output. Usually that number ends up being slightly low for cold start, sometimes high if going by "ANSI fl-1" procedure but only a little on either end.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    .... a light nerd so I made a sphere (which cost me around $50 going the DIY route).
    I saw your thread here - I woundered if that thing can fly to the moon - looks very spuky. How do you explain visitors what that thing in your house is and did anybody ever believe you?

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