A bit of help needed! changed driver in light, but runs in protected mode??- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    A bit of help needed! changed driver in light, but runs in protected mode??

    hello DIY bike light peeps!!
    I am after a bit of help, I recently picked up one of these SingFire SF-823 9-LED 6000lm 5-Mode White Memory Bike Light - Black + Red (12 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme Cheap from a chap on another bike forum, mainly for the battery as it came with a 12cell 8.4v pack, the guy got it on a review basis but said it seems to be stuck in low mode, on looking it isn't but there really is very little to tell between the modes.

    So, i set about researching the driver installed in the light and looking for an upgrade, the installed driver is a TR-0169D, after a fair bit of searching and confusing myself with the technical details i settled on this driver 5-9*XML LED Circuit Board 3 Modes, 6-12V, 2.8-3.0A FL239, according the the specs etc and comparing them it should have been what i needed to give the light some Ooomph??
    but on finishing the driver swap and powering it up, the light sat in protection mode, minimal power and flashing every 5 seconds, on searching it said make sure it is heatsinked?? i couldn't quite figure it out, but checked it all over, made sure of no bridging, but couldn't get it to do anything other than protection mode, So, swapped it out for the original driver and poured a glass of red and forgot about it,

    inners of the light,
    Original driver



    Led wiring


    i have a few beam shots of it with the original driver in compared to an xm-l U2 single lamp, its alleged to have 6000 lm, but i'd be surprised if it was much more than 1200!!
    9LED high

    Medium

    Low

    Single XM-L U2 high

    low


    the 9 led does give a good wide even spread but just seems to lack a lot of Ooomph considering the size etc. Am i being unrealistic expecting to get a Lot of light form it?? or is it really as good as its going to get??

    Any help, pointers or tips would be gratefully received, if i cant get anywhere with it i shall pop it on the wifes commuter! ;-) but would be great to be able to make it a Kick 4ss light! :-D

    Many thanks in advance,
    Timmo.
    I am the biketart!

  2. #2
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    additional images of the internals for ledoman




















    if you want any more specific pictures let me know and i'll try and sort them out!
    I am the biketart!

  3. #3
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    Yes, thanks. I's hard to read resistors R8 markins. For R10 I can see R820. R5 (empty), R8 and R10 compose sense resistance. To gain some more current you can add another resistor in place of R5. When we know R8 then we can do some calculation

    Can't see for shure but it looks to me two big black capacitors are in parallel. Can you inspect the traces? I would replace them with higher capacitance as I've already wrote. Preferably with low ESR or tantalum ones. Voltage has to be 9 times Vf or at least 35V.
    Check also traces with big yellow capacitor. It should be positioned between Vcc+ and Vcc- (ie input power terminals where power through switch is comming in). When leds are pumping a lot of power this capacitor can't keep with them and there might be much pulsing. If the frequency is high you won't see it, but the output would be dimmer same as you would use PWM. You might add or replace with another higher apacitance 10V minimum.

    Read and see the pictures at: Operating Instructions ? DealExtreme Forum - Page: 18 , take a look also plan on page 21. There are some similarities.

    Also taking away the heat from the driver can be important.

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