Ay-Up style homebrew- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Ay-Up style homebrew

    I've been spending far too much of my time building these over the past few months although nearing completion now, so thought it was about time to show the world... well you guys on this forum!

    Initially this started as a project to build some cheap bright lights as my old Electrons really wouldn't cut it any more and I couldn't really justify the best part of 300 to get my self some decent lights. So I thought I'd build my own, and to my amazement it seems like everyone's at it!. Actually i've found it really addictive and got my dad and his engineering skills involved on my project.

    As it stands at the moment it's 2x Cree R2 running from an nFlex powered by 3x 18650, I'm going to double this soon and drive 4x Cree R2 and double the cells, then have a separate pair on my lid. I've got a some Ledli LC1 optics (thanks Brum) which will fit nicely inside the housings with a bit of silicone, I just need to trim some of the lens holder so it will stick on to the LED star as the solder joints are in the way, hopefully I'll get that done this weekend and get out for a ride!
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    Last edited by andyt127; 08-16-2009 at 04:35 PM.

  2. #2
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    What are you using for the housing? Is it a custom piece?

  3. #3
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    How are you heat sinking the LED's to the housing? I assume you have something in there to help get rid of the heat?

    The housing looks nice an neat! At first glance, you almost wouldn't know it wasn't a set of ay-ups

  4. #4
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    Very nice. I would also like to know what you are using as your housing.
    Are they going to remain independently adjustable? They seem to be able to swivel freely at this stage in your build.

  5. #5
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    The housings are pill containers that I found on ebay, initially I just bolted these either side of my electron mount but they came loose and flopped about, so their now connected with an aluminium tube and circlips. They will turn a full 360 with a nice tight smooth action with no play... I have to thank my old man for that and his engineering skills.

    I haven't added any additional (heatsinking apart from the star on the LED) as each LED housing has quite a bit of surface area, I ran these at the full 1 amp, they lasted for about 2.5 hours they were hot to touch but you could hold them and that was with them being stationary outside, with a bit of air flow they run warm.

  6. #6
    A waste of time it is is
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    me thinks you might kill your LEDs if you don't heat sink them better than just the stars.

    If the pill housing is hot to touch just from contact with the edge of the star then think hoe hot that star is getting. Have a godd browse through some of the other light designs and you'll see how much importance others place on making sure there is a good thermal path to suck the heat away from the emitters.

    Looks good

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    me thinks you might kill your LEDs if you don't heat sink them better than just the stars.

    If the pill housing is hot to touch just from contact with the edge of the star then think hoe hot that star is getting. Have a godd browse through some of the other light designs and you'll see how much importance others place on making sure there is a good thermal path to suck the heat away from the emitters.

    Looks good
    Looks like the corner of the star sits on the rod mounting block? Not ideal, you should really have a metal slug in there.

    Nice design though, been looking at those pils for a while.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit
    Looks like the corner of the star sits on the rod mounting block? Not ideal, you should really have a metal slug in there.

    Nice design though, been looking at those pils for a while.
    I am also looking at these and thinking...

  9. #9
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    me thinks you might kill your LEDs if you don't heat sink them better than just the stars.

    If the pill housing is hot to touch just from contact with the edge of the star then think hoe hot that star is getting. Have a godd browse through some of the other light designs and you'll see how much importance others place on making sure there is a good thermal path to suck the heat away from the emitters.
    Right, I hadn't quite seen it like that, a lot of the other light designs had multiple LED's within the same housing and thus generating a lot of heat together, and I assumed as I had a single LED in each housing the surface area of the housing would be enough. I'll look into some additional heatsinking although I'm getting a bit tight for space in there!

    If the LED over heats, what will happen, will it just go out or start to dim first?

    Cheers
    Andy

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyt127
    Right, I hadn't quite seen it like that, a lot of the other light designs had multiple LED's within the same housing and thus generating a lot of heat together, and I assumed as I had a single LED in each housing the surface area of the housing would be enough. I'll look into some additional heatsinking although I'm getting a bit tight for space in there!

    If the LED over heats, what will happen, will it just go out or start to dim first?

    Cheers
    Andy
    Hi Andy
    if the led gets too hot then it will change colour and give out less light as it gets hotter
    up to a point where it dies .

    as an experiment hold on to one of your stars when you power it up and in less than 15 seconds it will hurt .
    you need a piece of aluminium that is a close fit inside your pill container and your led fixed to that
    this will get the heat away from the led to the case and out to air as fast as possible

    the cooler you keep the leds the more lumens it will churn out

  11. #11
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    Ok thanks, I'll definitely sort out some heatsinking for these then, worst case is the lens will sit slightly forward of the housing.

    Here's a couple of pic's of the first fit on the bike, need to do a bit of tidying up on the wiring!
    Just took it for a quick spin and really impressed... much better than my old Electrons!

    Hopefully these pic's will only appear once this time!
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  12. #12
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    nice tidy packaging
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  13. #13
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    beamshots

    How about beamshots.
    How did you handle heat dissipation from the led?

  14. #14
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    The heat sinking is all done now, I've used a small disc to the exact internal diameter of the housing so it touches the sides, this is screwed to the back of the LED star with some heat sink compound. The casings definitely get warmer quicker when stationary, compared to the lights without the heat sinking.

    I haven't got any beam shots yet... I need to work that one out! I see there is a thread for that, I'll post some as soon as I've done them.

    I've also connected up a second pair to my nFlex so I'm guessing that must be around 1000 lumens, we're going out Friday night for a ride so hoping to try them as long as I get my bike back together!

  15. #15
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    Andy,

    I really admire your work, an AYUP style light has been my desire for some time.

    Given how your mounting works is there a need for the ability to move the two light units seperately?

    I ask this as I do not think I have the skills to do as you have done and fit circlips inot such a small place with sufficiently controlled tolerances to ensure that they did not flop about.

    Cheers

    Pete

  16. #16
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    Thanks Pete,

    To be honest I have only ridden with it a couple of times and I found myself tweaking the housing angles quite a lot, but this was probably down to me trying to get the maximum out of my new toy! It works really well though and does give you the ability to drop one light slightly in front of you if you need to look near your front wheel!

    The pill containers I used came in two parts, the silver half is larger and allowed the fitting of the bushing and circlips, and the gold half is slightly smaller so these are fixed solid together, I'll use these for a helmet light.

    When I get a minute I'll post some more pics showing the assembly of both types of lights.

    Andy

  17. #17
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    Here's a few more pic's of my various lights, the last pic shows the component breakdown for the swivel motion used on the silver lights. The blue lights show the heatsink disks and DX optics, which are also used in the gold ones.
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  18. #18
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    Andy,

    Thanks for your generousity in sharing the inner workings of your design, they look truely professional!

    Am I correct in assuming that the o-ring is the part that creates the friction to hold the light in place and the surclip is not tight against the white spacer?

    I have ordered a new batch of bits from DX including some of thier Alloy pill shaped key chains, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.27551. So hopefully I can create something close to your suppurb effort.

    Cheers

    Pete

  19. #19
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    These are great looking lights. Congrats!

    Just wondering where you found your mounting hardware, and what you are using to charge your battery pack.

    I'm in a big battery debate right now with my own light build.

    Thanks so much for sharing!

  20. #20
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    Thanks for you comments, I've gained a lot of info from generous people on this forum so it's only right to give my experiences back.

    Quote Originally Posted by pjc223
    Am I correct in assuming that the o-ring is the part that creates the friction to hold the light in place and the surclip is not tight against the white spacer?
    Yes, that's right, there is also some resistance when the shaft is placed into the white housing but the o-ring adds to it and also seals out any water, the circlip doesn't touch the plastic and is only there to stop the lights being pulled apart, we looked at using a split pin here but that would have restricted the wire through the shaft.

    Quote Originally Posted by cdn_hammer
    Just wondering where you found your mounting hardware, and what you are using to charge your battery pack.
    If you mean the bracket for the handlebars then I used this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=6091

    to connect the lights to the bracket I used this: https://www.screwfix.com/prods/15371...7mm-Pack-of-50

    As for batteries and charging I finally decided to go with 18650 li-ion cells and a GE Power B6 balance charger: http://www.rchelicoptershop.net/cata...ply-p-739.html
    I chose this as I decided to make my own battery packs, if this is the route you choose then make sure you only buy cells with tags on, if you solder directly to a li-ion battery you will find yourself in all sorts of trouble! you'll also need to add over/under charge protection circuitry. One thing I have done that some folk on this forum may frown upon is to use laptop batteries, I bought a used pack off ebay for 5, stripped out the cells (6x2200mah) and made some battery packs from these, you will find the voltage is already matched and they are tagged together. I'm getting about 3hrs runtime per pack on my twin lights.

    Cheers
    Andy

  21. #21
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    andy, how many lumens from each light?

  22. #22
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    Thanks Andy, really appreciate your comments and you sharing your project.
    Cheers

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcsurfer
    andy, how many lumens from each light?
    I guess they must be about 500 - 550 lumens per pair, I'm using the Cree XR-E R2 LEDs from DX and driving them at 1000mA.

    I'll try and sort some beam shots out soon, just need to dig out the tripod!

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