Anyone have problems with their MTE SSC P7?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Anyone have problems with their MTE SSC P7?

    I recently purchased two MTE SSC P7 from dealextreme and one battery leaked while charging (It still works though) and one of my lights flickers all the time. If I smack the light it will come on and then flicker again, so it seems like something is loose. I have tried both batteries in both lights and its not the battery. The same light flickers with both batteries. Also I have a voltmeter but I don't know how to hook it up and use it to check the batteries. Could someone fill me in? And has anyone else had their lights flicker. These are brand new, I've only used them two or three times to ride home from class at night. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Yes, many people have had the same problem. First, dispose of the leaking battery. Next, look at the end cap that houses the switch. There is a lock ring that sometimes is not tightened down enough. Using a bent paper clip should work ( look for two small holes in the lock ring ) turn clockwise to tighten. Some people have used small magnets ( conductors ) to lengthen the batteries for a tighter fit, sometimes that helps. Make sure the head is tightened down well and making electrical contact. Sometimes cleaning the threads helps. Hopefully you do not have a bad switch like one of mine. The switches can be taken apart but don't try that unless all else fails. You almost have to have the hands of a neurosurgeon to fix one of these switches but it can be done...not by me unfortunately, I'm all thumbs. Lastly, there are other threads here on this subject. Do a search and you should find more answers.

  3. #3
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    Also wrap the battery with a layer of shipping tape, or duct tape half way around to keep the battery from jiggling around in the cylinder.

  4. #4
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    I checked the switch and it's tight. I have changed both switches and batteries between both lights and one always works and the other always flickers, so I don't think the switches are giving me problems. I'm at school so it's probably going to be hard to find a small magnet to put in the end to take up space. I'll check with to see if my dad has any small magnets when I'm home next. I tried searching for posts about similar problems, but the search didn't give me anything for MTE or SSC. I did find the gigantic thread about these lights and I've read the whole thing previously, but it doesn't mention fixing the flickering light.

  5. #5
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    Its its flickering constantly it means that driver has gone, it comes on normally then starts flickering after about 3 seconds. Either the driver was faulty or battereis outputting too much voltage has been used, e.g. 2 x 16340 instead of one 18650. If theat not the case send it back. If that is the case swap the driver out. I got one off KD for about $3.99 which has a slightly wider input and has low/med/high and memory although it shouldn't according to the spec.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad5080
    I checked the switch and it's tight. I have changed both switches and batteries between both lights and one always works and the other always flickers, so I don't think the switches are giving me problems. I'm at school so it's probably going to be hard to find a small magnet to put in the end to take up space. I'll check with to see if my dad has any small magnets when I'm home next. I tried searching for posts about similar problems, but the search didn't give me anything for MTE or SSC. I did find the gigantic thread about these lights and I've read the whole thing previously, but it doesn't mention fixing the flickering light.
    Okay, that helps narrow things down a bit. Sounds like the problem might be up front in the light head on the one that flickers. Maybe the pill isn't tight enough or maybe a bad solder job on the LED. D/X used to sell the little magnets...don't know if they still do but they are on my next list. You might try dismantling the front end and reassembling. Just be careful, once again make sure the threads are clean...it might help. It sure would be nice if the people who make these things would do a vibration test before shipping. The problem I originally had with mine ( MTE P-7 two mode ) was with the switch cap. Finally I decided to try another switch/cap I had on another MTE torch I had. The replacement cap had no spring on it and is made very different from the other. Hell if I know why but the replacement cap works great. Later on I tried to dismantle the button switch on the old cap. Had no problem getting it apart. Once apart though you need a magnifying glass to see what to do. The hard part is trying to snap the top back on when you're done without breaking something. Anyway...I failed the test. I sent D/X an e-mail to see if you could buy the switch/caps as a separate item...never did get an answer.

  7. #7
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    It does flicker constantly unless you beat on it. Then it goes away until you move the light again. When the light is flickering I can hold the flashlight in one hand and just rotate the light 90 degrees and it will stop flickering. It's hard to explain but if I am holding the light with the emblem pointing up, I can rotate the light in my hand so the emblem is horizontal with the ground (for example) and it stops flickering. So it sounds like it may be the driver like you mentioned. I tried to search for a website called KD and I didn't find anything, what does KD stand for or could you give me a link to the driver? Thanks guys for the help, I appreciate it.

  8. #8
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    KD is short for Kaidomain, they sell many similar items to dealextreme and bestbuy, but also a few different, i could'nt find a 17mm driver on DX so had a look on KD and they had a few, i went for the cheapest and found it to be good enough, direct drive and nowhere near 2800ma, but most are nearer 2400 anyway.

    Link below:

    http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...ProductId=1845

    Spec is:

    - Accepts one Li-ion (e.g. 18650)
    - Direct drive P7 LED
    - 10% 45% 100%
    - High frenqency PWM
    - 17mm diameter PCB
    - Gold plated PCB for superior conductivity

    Dimension: Diameter 16-17mm*Height 4.5mm
    Input Voltage: 3.2-4.5V
    Output current: 100-3500mA
    Modes: High/Mid/Low/Strobe/SOS

    45% is really useful as it increases runtime to over 2 hours at maybe 300 lumens

    Good setup of "everything P7" on the site, not quite as professional looking as DX but a underrated site.

    Might be worth checking all if your connections first though, take the board out and check where the wires connect onto the board.

    Moggy

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