anybody added mirrors to their lights- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 40 of 40
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    7

    anybody added mirrors to their lights

    hi all. just wondered if anybody has tried adding strips of mirror or highly polished metal above and below the lenses, and seated the lenses further back in the housing to try and reflect as much light as possible out of the housing?. ive only just powered up my 6 x xpg for the first time ( no smoke and it all works to my utter suprise ).at the moment its all heatsinked outside the housing and before a seal it all up i just wondered if its worth trying
    cheers

  2. #2
    Ola
    Ola is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    25
    I'm making a 3xpg light with reflective metal roof at the moment. Riding mainly road bike and looking for a sharp cut-off in the vertical plane. Seems to work very well with Regina reflectors...roof sticks out approximately 60mm in front of the reflectors. Also tried with lenses (think it was LXP) but they were not so easy to cut off using a roof.

    Tried different material for the roof, I'm going for a dimpled metal sheet instead of plain mirror. With the mirror I got annoying hot spot that differed from the main beam, the structured metal gives more spread to the beam.

    Sorry no pics yet.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    744
    My opinion on this:

    The reflectors and optics you're more than likely using are already pushing +90% efficiency. The small amount of light that exists inside the housing wouldn't justify the effort required to try and focus it outward. If you wanted a cut off, like Ola mentioned, then recessing the lights further into the housing or extended a lip over the LED would be beneficial. You could also remove a portion of the housing, like the lip under the LED, as Troutie did which would allow the light in the housing to spill downward.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: znomit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,980
    Pepko made a crazy bright light with a lowbeam using a mirror for cutoff.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=581232

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    I've just made 2 "hoods" for CK/Hammond lights on Troutie's STW big thread. They are a experiment to see if they can provide a bit of car-friendly cut-off for the dip beam in the picture seen on here (near bottom of page), and a dynamo version of the same light on another bike.

    I've yet to take either bike out to see the effect and hope the anodised aluminium will reflect enough of the useless upward spill to add a little to the beam. It would be easy enough to stick a more reflective mirror to the underside of the hoods to see the effect.

    Ola ... any more detail on the "dimpled metal sheet"?

    Kan3 ..... in my case its not so much trying to get more than the 90% efficiency out of the reflectors (reginas) .... it's more where they place that 90% .... i.e on the ground, not in the trees, or in oncoming drivers'/riders'/walkers' eyes. I may try some elliptical optics in the near future.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    744
    I don't believe you guys are talking about the same thing the OP was, or at least I assume that. He wants to know how to get that last 10% out of the housing while the posts so far are about altering the beam after it's already left.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Is that realistic?, non of my lights are suitable for use on the road.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    744
    I think it is, if you're referring to a cut off

    Slap a 2" extension over each reflector/optic and point it down slightly and you shouldn't bother cars too much.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    kan3 ... you mean just like I did in my picture on STW?

    MrLee ... I'll tell you if it works, shortly!

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    I'm not so sure, your bars are close to the drivers eyeline anyway, I suspect unless you run your lights at a significant dipped angle, then it won't make any difference to oncoming traffic. - that might be ok if you are riding on the road all the time.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    4,437
    Appologies if this long post appears to be thread theft. I think it contributes to the OP's question, and I have not reported this aspect of my low beam light in detail elsewhere because I thought no one else was interested. I may still be right for most of you.

    Some of the older LED builds I read of here and in CPF used reflective paint in the housing. Presumably to capture the wandering photons and re-emit a fraction of them out the front. With lower efficiencies of the older LED's that might have been worth the effort or at maybe just to feel like you did some good.

    A not too strange thing occured. I polished the beejessus (lapped) a copper heat sink/fire wall derived from a copper pipe cap and had polished the inside of a Marwi housing to a glorious sheen except a few low spots. This was to aid thermal path of MCPCB to heat sink and heat sink to housing. Unsurprise: high reflectivity happened! The lenses are Carclo 10417s, so open sided with no black plastic holder (or a barrel like I have on the high beam light's Aspheric lenses), so that 10-15% escaped light bounces around nicely.

    So how did that work out? A bit too well, actually. The 10 mm lenses are as narrow a beam as you can get in that size last year at this time for XP-G's. About 18-20 FWHM angle. With the addition of the reflection off the copper sink and the inner sides of the housing, I had almost a 180 degree spread out into the left hand ditch only 2-3 feet ahead of the bike!! The nearest part of the beam especially at the wider angles was noticeably warmer than the main beam so presumably it was predominantly from light bouncing at least once off the copper bypassing any lens. Mounted on the bars, the light's upward glare was a problem. My bars from midway to the hoods on out, were well lit and the glare off the SKS fender was fierce competing with what passed for the hot spot. No such thing as too much light on tap (you can power it down), badly placed light, yes. I thought the light would be perfect on the front of a fender like the old cruiser torpedo lights if you didn't mind searing oncoming drivers retinas.

    Yes, I was not the only one affected. Neighbours meeting me slowed tremendously on meeting me oncoming, some driving off the edge of the road. (Visions of overturned vehicles burning in my wake with passengers running for their lives!) Being a trained scientist, I took that observation as good evidence that the light was not road worthy in that state. Figured I would address it before I got shot.



    This is the current mounting point and modification of the light. SInce I have a good narrow aimable beam on the helmet, I can aim at getting more shadows of sticks and potholes the added bonus is that the light is below drivers eyes (except for the lowest slung sports cars). The B & M mount is from Peter White Cycles, and judicious application of a pair of pliers and a little reaming and it fit like it was custom made! The bar bag isolates me from any stray light, though I don't think there is much, now. I derived a fresnel lens cut from the center of a 5" plastic halogen landscape lamp (2 for $10 at Home Depot). That tamed the reflected light a lot and narrowed the beam to maybe 12 degrees FWHM at a 10% output penalty. I added the hood derived from a black 35 mm film canister and tipped the light down to help more. I plan to apply the shiny aluminum 'peel and stick' duct tape to the underside of the hood once I am done messing with it. That would mean it will have reflectors inside and out. Some light reflects down off the shiny black plastic as it is. The classy black electrical tape used to mount the hood increases water resistance at the bezel joint, too. Fortunately, it blends in well.

    Problem: there are three lens-LED systems and ONE hood. A previous post pointed out a hood for each would be best. Yup. In a former mounting location with the light upside down, two of the three LED-lenses were just below the hood. That is the one I videoed. Currently, only one is immediately below the hood with the light upright as intended again (more water resistant). Disassembling the light will alow me to rotate two of the LED's to the top. Having one LED a bit less controlled is good for being seen day or night. Blinding oncoming drivers is out, but a little spill seems to make them give me room. I have met more than one neighbour who wide turned into the midddle of the straight stretch I was riding so that the driver was directly in my beams' paths.. They moved to their side pretty quickly, I presume, not enjoying the direct part of my lights' beams at all. They don't move like that in the day, anyway. A little negative reinforcement. I aim to borrow a better night camera to determine if this last setup is good enough as is or I need to rotate the LEDs.

    A single XM-L with a larger reflector or lens would be tighter to start with with only one lens loss and one hood would do. It should work in a Marwi like the recent MC-E thread showed. Figures. Just as you home in on the solution...

    This light is destined for a dynamo on the errand bike where I need three LEDs. I will likely keep the Bflex and battery plug in capabilities. I will use my single XM-L to build a replacment for it. Should be fun.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    Nice to see someone riding a mercian :-) they are made just down the road from me, are you the original owner? they mostly make custom frames to order.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    744
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobblehat
    kan3 ... you mean just like I did in my picture on STW?
    Not familiar with STW, can you post a link?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    Quote Originally Posted by MrLee
    I'm not so sure, your bars are close to the drivers eyeline anyway, I suspect unless you run your lights at a significant dipped angle, then it won't make any difference to oncoming traffic. - that might be ok if you are riding on the road all the time.
    My bars might be close to drivers' eye levels but my lights are not on the bars! The twin battery lights are several inches below the bars, the "dip" beam being even lower. The dip is indeed pointed at a significant angle .... puts the main spot of the reginas' beam maybe 20 - 30ft out and its effects extend out farther along the road. The dynamo version on the hack bike is mounted somewhat like Brian's light above, and at a similar height, and is pointed at an angle similar to the "dip" beam for the twin battery lights, as that bike is used only on the road.

    But it's not the main spot that is my concern for blinding drivers, it's the relatively wide and bright "spill" from the reginas that needs controlling for road use. The spill to the side and below is great to see obstacles and kerb/pavement (sidewalk?) detail. So my hoods are to control the bright upward spill, not to necessarily to affect the main part of the beam. A bit of experimentation will be needed .... back yard viewing looks promising.

    If you've seen the photos on STW, you'll have noticed that the Twin light has a "main" beam (aimed higher) and a "dip" beam. I travel a combination of off and on-road ...... hence the elaborate set-up. I'm not concerned about taming the main beam (muwhahaha ) ..... just like a road vehicle isn't concerned either ... you know what I mean!

    kan3 ... the link is the word "here" in first paragraph in my first post! You can try the link "here" too! The photos are near the bottom of the page.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ortelius's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    190
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Not familiar with STW, can you post a link?
    It is there, in his post - click on the underlined thingy there.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobblehat
    ... They are a experiment to see if they can provide a bit of car-friendly cut-off for the dip beam in the picture seen on here (near bottom of page) ...
    EDIT:
    Ups, sorry, I'm too late....

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    It would interesting to see your findings, do you think you'll need to shield off the spill on the offside and not just the top? keeping the larger spill on the nearside? (the same as dipped car headlights work).

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    I'll let you know when I get out with them properly .... wussed out tonight .... I was out in the back yard playing with a rear light to partner the dynamo front light .... had the bike up on a stand and was spinning the front wheel merrily .... something wasn't right with the rear light, although it worked in a fashion ..... then the rain came down! Still ... the rain will help wash all the remaining ice and slush away!

    A rough test against the house wall gave a pretty sharp and wide horizontal line effect, so an asymmetrical hood might be "icing on the cake". I did notice that the ends of the horizontal line seemed prominently marked by "little hook" shadows formed by the wrap around remains of the side walls on the hoods I made. As I said, a bit of experimenting is in order ....... junior hacksaw and file at the ready! ( or maybe also a Cornflake packet and a pair of Val's old knickers ... for all you more mature UK readers!)

    Added: link to dynamo version here. Half way down.
    Last edited by Bobblehat; 12-28-2010 at 12:52 PM.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    Hey! Brian .... your pic has disappeared ...or is it just me?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    4,437
    Quote Originally Posted by MrLee
    Nice to see someone riding a mercian :-) ... are you the original owner? they mostly make custom frames to order.
    This IS OT, so I beg the OP's indulgence: link



    On topic: The upside down location of the headlight to control the reflections used until Santa brought the new mount, & some other bits.

    Pic: I don't know. It dissappeared and I could not get to it in my album. Closed all reopened and it is back. No idea. Call me Kreskin.

  21. #21
    Ola
    Ola is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    25
    MrLee; a roof on top of the Reginas makes a huge difference. I put my friend in my car and tested with and without roof. With the roof I could aim my light almost straight forward. Without roof he complained even when I pointed the light at a quite sharp angle to the ground, hotspot maybe 5-7m in front of bike. I'm planning to connect my roof to a spring loaded mobile phone slider mechanism, so I easily can slide the roof forward/backward for road/trail.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    7
    wow, thanks for all the info,i think im going to play about a bit more. my original idea was to put the leds 15 or 20 mm further back into the housing and add strips of mirror in front of the leds, to the floor and roof of the housing. from what your all saying i might be better off with some sort of adjustable hood with a mirror on the underside facing down.?
    ill give it a go and let you all know how it goes

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    Ola .... great idea .... remote control hood! Handsfree phone call to activate!



    Only kidding!

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    broberto ..... have a look here .... seems it might fit your original idea. It gave me some ideas,

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    This IS OT, so I beg the OP's indulgence: link



    On topic: The upside down location of the headlight to control the reflections used until Santa brought the new mount, & some other bits.

    Pic: I don't know. It dissappeared and I could not get to it in my album. Closed all reopened and it is back. No idea. Call me Kreskin.
    Nice mounting arrangement, that frame would probably cost you about $1500 to replace!

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    205
    A concept of an "anti-blind roof" for light:
    https://s004.radikal.ru/i207/1012/9f/cefc9caf2eb5.jpg
    Aluminium foil is glued to the inside of "the roof", so some mirrored spill goes directly under the front wheel, which mades more comfort short-distance lighting.
    P.S. The photo isn't mine, but it shows the idea of "anti-blind roof" quite well.

  27. #27
    Ola
    Ola is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobblehat
    Ola .... great idea .... remote control hood! Handsfree phone call to activate!



    Only kidding!
    Haha. Great idea! But I think I start with pure mechanical solution.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    OK ... a bit of feedback on adding a "mirror" to my hood. The hood is a piece of anodised Hammond case as seen in the link higher up. The satin effect of the anodized aluminium provided some reflection from this dynamo light ....... more on that later.

    EDIT: link here is better ..... near the bottom.

    The "mirror" was a piece of old CD blu-tacked to the underside. It increased the reflection ..... but I do not find it to my liking!

    The problem is that with the reginas, it produces a small strong hot-spot closer to the wheel than the main direct hot-spot further out produced by the reginas. This closer hot-spot was always there after I added the hood, but the satin anodized effect diffused it and made it less of a problem. I can still see it now that I have removed the experimental mirror even though I hardly noticed it when I first added the hood! I would not want this closer hot spot to be any brighter than it is now. I'm going to leave the mirror off on this dynamo light. The effect with optics may be different to that with the regina. The hood still provides useful anti-dazzle effect for road or shared-use paths.

    The black anodized hoods on my battery lights might benefit from some reflection material .... so more experiments to follow.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    205
    Bobblehat
    Maybe you could use some reflective (mirrored) tape on that hood.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    Quote Originally Posted by klynk
    Bobblehat
    Maybe you could use some reflective (mirrored) tape on that hood.
    Errrrmmmmm? ..... Do you mean on the battery lights? Reflective tape could prove to be as reflective as the piece of CD I used on the dynamo light and produce a similar close in hot-spot. Might be worth a try though. I'll want something similar in reflective properties as satin anodised ali .... as on my dynamo light. A thin piece of sanded ali might do it actually!

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    205
    Bobblehat
    I experimented with Magicshine and made similar cap as on this photo:

    But I glued some aluminium foil to the inside surface of the cap.
    So, the oncoming cars was obviously happier, and I get more close-range spill aroud the front wheel - that was the light reflected from the cap.
    P.S. Magicshine was mounted on the bars.

  32. #32
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,539
    I added a hood to my triple xpe light and polished it. The main advantage was as a bar light I was not blinded when standing and pedaling and it did reduce the glare to oncoming traffic a little whilst throwing more light down by the front wheel




  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    145
    As I said .... trying these mirror ideas with a regina just produces a distracting hot spot too near the front wheel ....not a nice spread as most of us would want!

    I'll experiment with something that will diffuse the upward spill a bit better. As a hood to cut the upward spill, the extensions I made work fine.

  34. #34
    Ola
    Ola is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    25
    I have made some tests with different"mirror" materials. Have no pics available but patterned metal sheets spread the light much better than a plain mirror. Since it's less reflective than a mirror you loose some light but I see that as a minor problem. Refer to AN6 in the following link for an illustration of patterned metal.

    http://www.astoncarlsson.se/Produktb...tervalsadp.pdf

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HEY HEY ITS HENDO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    716
    ..brad, that looks ace!
    surely you have got the most possible out of this triple
    with the liberator bit + the reflector!
    is this the way forward?
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  36. #36
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,539
    Quote Originally Posted by HEY HEY ITS HENDO
    ..brad, that looks ace!
    surely you have got the most possible out of this triple
    with the liberator bit + the reflector!
    is this the way forward?
    Thanks mate. It is still one of my Favorite lights. The XPE leds give a good colour on the trail, she light and gets excellent battery life Here's a beam shot with a spot optic @750mA. (horse @ 40 meters, houses @ 110)


  37. #37
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,456
    Mate it's time to take the chrissy lights down

  38. #38
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,539
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Mate it's time to take the chrissy lights down
    Thats the best part, they go from xmas lights to pool area lights then back to xmas lights. I never have to touch them I should probable attach them properly one day though.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    4,437
    The headlight that is in post 11 and 20 is now on the errand-commute bike sans Bflex and driven by Martin's PCB in spite of my best efforts to render it useless:



    (Classic threaded sterring tube: so alternate location solution required.)

    While messing with the light I added aluminum foil tape as used to properly seal duct work:



    When mounted upside down, the shade was on 180 degrees from this photo, blocking light from 2 not 1 LED effectively. I may need to open the light (AGAIN, ) and rotate the pill inside to get the beam I had before. I like what I see if it is traffic friendly enough. Time for more video, I'm afraid.

    Enough backgrouond. This thread is about mirrors. In the 'one LED dorsal and two ventral' version shown here, the shiny shade gives an oval hotspot bright but not bad enough to affect night vision with a smooth application of the tape. The light is mounted on the front of the rack and gives great shadow definition. The brighter spot at a dodgeable distance in front of the tire in case I did not see a pothole sooner, is a nice addition, but it could be bigger and less bright. If I rotate the pill to reduce glare to drivers (2 dorsal & 1 ventral LED), I will have two LEDs contributing reflected light and the spot should be wider but likely too bright where their relected light overlaps. I will need to try a wrinkled (simulated orange peel) surface, I think. But I am happy reclaiming a portion of the cut-off light instead of heating the plastic shade.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by znomit
    Pepko made a crazy bright light with a lowbeam using a mirror for cutoff.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=581232
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobblehat
    broberto ..... have a look here .... seems it might fit your original idea. It gave me some ideas,
    ... and my another version here:
    http://forum.fotonmag.cz/index.php?s...04&#entry15904


Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.