Any ideas on how to mount a bFlex?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Any ideas on how to mount a bFlex?

    I'm starting with a cylindrical housing with a compartment on the front for the LED and a compartment on the back for the driver. I'd like to be able to use the thermal control so I can make the housing smaller this time. I'm thinking if I make the back cover the right depth, I can use that as my mount for the bFlex and it can press the driver against the back of the slug for the LED.

    Anyone know how thick a bFlex is?

  2. #2
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    Hi unterhausen, I have used a small amount of AA to glue the bflex to the led slug and just a tiny dollop of silicone on the edge of the board to improve the strength.

    I only used AA on the square 8 pin chip on one side of the board as this is the one that has the thermal monitoring magic inside it. The bflex is about 8.5mm at its highest point (inductor) and about 5mm high over the rest of the board. Hope this helps, dont forget we want photos and beamshots!!

  3. #3
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    that sounds like a good way to mount it, but I'm thinking I'd like to make it removable since I'm going to be driving a single XR-E with it for a backup of my dyno light.

    Thanks for the measurements. I'll definitely post pictures in progress this time.

  4. #4
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    My housing has a 1 inch diameter rear section for the driver and power cable. I put an o-ring the same diameter in the bottom of the bore. It has a cross section of 2.05mm. The micro processor chip on my bFlex is 2mm tall. A bit of thermal transfer pad was placed on top the chip to make good contact with the LED mount. Placed the bFlex in the bore and put a piece of closed cell foam between it and the rear cap of the housing to act as a spring to hold the bFlex tight against the LED mount. This works well so far and the bFlex is very good at controlling the heat. I set the bFlex to trip at 50C. The light housing reaches 42-44C when the light dims. This thread has some pics that may help my description.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=501179

  5. #5
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    Your description was perfect, just what I needed. Thanks for the link to your thread as well.

    I was trying to decide if I should use the bFlex switch, or remotely mount a switch. What did you use for the cover?
    Last edited by unterhausen; 06-15-2009 at 09:04 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen
    Your description was perfect, just what I needed. Thanks for the link to your thread as well.

    I was trying to decide if I should use the bFlex switch, or remotely mount a switch. What did you use for the cover?
    The switch cover is a piece of 1.5mm thick rubber sheet with a 3M high strength peel and stick adhesive from the scrap bin at work. 1mm thick would be better as the 1.5 kind of mutes the click of the switch. I have seen others use a circle punched from an old innertube and contact cement to glue it on.

  7. #7
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    wow, your light is really well thought out. I'll see if I can find any really thin shim stock.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen
    wow, your light is really well thought out. I'll see if I can find any really thin shim stock.

    Thanks for the compliment.

    One important thing to note. If you are going to use the built in switch on the bFlex and mount it like I have, you need to solder the switch on the "backside" of the bFlex. You will need to bend one of the mounting ears slightly to clear R6 and clip a corner of the same ear to clear a pin on Q1.

  9. #9
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    I didn't solder it all the way down on the board. Maybe I'll wish I had later. Seems fairly robust for now.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen
    I didn't solder it all the way down on the board. Maybe I'll wish I had later. Seems fairly robust for now.
    I had thought about leaving it a bit high but it seemed simple enough to mod the switch and be able to get the support that it was designed to have. A bit of epoxy could be used to add support to the switch. That would make repairs or replacement difficult though.

  11. #11
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    How did you do your wiring? I'm thinking about leaving a little slack on the led side. Would be nice if this was one of the _Flex with a hole for the wires to go through.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen
    How did you do your wiring? I'm thinking about leaving a little slack on the led side. Would be nice if this was one of the _Flex with a hole for the wires to go through.
    LED wires come out the "front" of the driver and pass through 4mm holes in the LED mount surface. Since the LED connections come off the bFlex on nearly opposite sides, these line up nicely with the notches in the MC-E star. The power wires come out of the "back". I cut the LED wires so they were only just long enough to reach through the thickness of the led mount surface plus the thickness of the star plus a small amount of slack. I kept the star lifted slightly off the thermal paste (I screwed the star to the mount instead of gluing it) with a small screwdriver tip as a wedge while soldering otherwise the heat is taken away too much to get good solder flow. A PITA for sure but works fine.

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