Another Triple Cree...Another plug for Achesalot- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    48

    Another Triple Cree...Another plug for Achesalot

    Hi all,

    I started making this light a while ago now, and as usual got it to a working state and then started using it straight away. I finished it on the weekend so I thought I'd post some pics of it on here.

    It is a standard triple Cree light as per Achesalot's instructions found here http://myfwyc.org/bikeled/DIY_LED_Bi...ing_Guide.html
    Thanks Achesalot.

    I've mounted mine on the handlebars of my bike and am pretty happy with the light throw. I mostly need the light in the morning when I commute to work so I havn't had the chance to test it off road yet. It runs two real spot (3 Deg) lenses and a 8 degree lense. I also have two 9 deg lenses I can put on if I find it too spotty in the bush.

    I use a 14.4V, 3800mAH NiMH battery that I got made, I was supposed to fit inside a drink bottle (which it did) but I couldn’t get it to stop rattling so I made a housing out of 65mm waste pipe and packed it in there with foam. I will get the pack remade so I can make the battery holder shorter.

    I bought a swallow AC/DC charger, this will charge (and discharge) all types of batteries PROPERLY including LiPo (it also balances LiPo packs properly!)

    Yes I painted it black to match the bike but I stuck the heat sinks on to the body before I painted it and I tried not to paint the heat sinks to much. The light doesn't even get warm anyway and I drive it a 1Amp.

    It used to have a dimming pot on the back but I couldn't buy a knob for it, seeing as though I wasn't dimming the light I cut it out and replaced it with a switch, I now have on and off....

    Another thing I will begin selling CREE XR E's and other bits and peices on EBAY shortly so keep an eye out for them, they will be as cheap as I can make them.....any suggestions as to what you would like (lenses, drivers etc) would be appreciated. I will post on here when I begin to list them, if it is not spammed
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by wilso_ac; 04-29-2007 at 03:31 PM.

  2. #2
    Lev
    Lev is offline
    You Guys Riding?
    Reputation: Lev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    640
    Schwing! I like the black look

  3. #3
    Gone riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,351
    Yet another! Nice work.

  4. #4
    Spanish biker
    Reputation: msxtr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    732
    Very nice!!!! congratulations

    And now....beamshots!!!!!!!!

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  5. #5
    Gone riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,351
    Something I only just noticed too, let us know how you go with the Swallow AC / DC charger.

    At one stage I was in the market for a quality charger and the reliance of an automotive battery or dedicated power supply put me off chargers like the standard Swallow and Triton. I’d be interested to hear how you go with the AC / DC.

    Dave.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    48
    Alrighty Msxtr here are some photos. Photos are taken with a Canon 300D (Digital Rebel) at 2 sec F6.3

    At 3m (10Ft) the picture is waaaay over exposed, the light is typically hot in the centre with a flat rectangular beam

    At 10m (30ft)

    At 20m (60ft)

    At 30m (90ft)

    Low_Rider

    The charger is excellent and I would thoroughly recommend it. It will charge up to 14cells in 1.2v cells.

    Here is what it says on the box.

    1-14 NiCd cells
    1-14 NiMH cells
    1-5 Li ion or LiPol cells (3.6 or 3.7V/cell)
    1-6 Lead acid cells (2v/cell)

    Charge current 0.1A - 5A in 100mA steps (you can set this to whatever you want, along with the discharge rate up to 5W)
    Trickle charge 0-200mA (at termination of charge cycle)
    Charge termination; zero delta v peak detection for NiCd and NiMH
    constant current/constant voltage for Li-Ion/Po and Pb
    charge to discharge/discharge to charge (as many times as you require)
    2 line 16 blue backlit LCD
    LiPo cell balancer and voltage monitoring (with additional balancer)

    It also tells you how many mA have gone into the battery when you charge it.

    Best of all you can plug it straight into the wall although it will also run from a 12v car battery if you need to, perfect for those 12h races.

    I paid about $140 Aus for this charger and I think it was worth every cent simply because it will charge all types of batteries (its amazing what a proper discharge/charge cycle will do for an old dieing drill battery!)

    If you are serious about the life of your batteries a charger like this is a must.

    Something else I forgot to add; the battery is 3800mAH and the light draws 700mA (its a 1amp driver, its 700mA at 14.4V) from it flat out so thats about 5.5 hours burn time give or take a bit...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: peterh88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    41
    Good looking light that one.
    When I built my triple, I too went for a bit of a different look.
    Thanks to achesalots great design we can all have fantastic lights, just up to the individual on how you choose to make them look.
    helmutMountLH_small.jpg

    On another note can someone explain the 1 amp buck puck only running at 700 Mamp when using a 14.4 volt battery.
    I am using 14.4 v with my lights as well. Does that mean that my lights are not running at their full potential brightness??

    Cheers

    Peter

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    48
    No your lights are working fine.

    The reason why they are 'only' drawing 700ma is because the total forward voltage (vf) of the LEDs does not equal 14.4V. Its probably around the 10V mark. That is the addition of the voltage required to drive each individual LED.

    If you had your lights hooked up to a bench mounted power supply that showed voltage and current and you slowly wound back the voltage you would notice the current rising as the voltage went down. At the precise moment you hit the actual vf of the three LEDs (give a bit for the loss in the driver) you would see 1amp of current being drawn from the power supply.

    Generally the cells in your batteries are going to be a higher voltage than 1.2V when charged (1.2V is a nominal voltage) and the battery voltage will be even higher than 14.4 volts, so the actual current drawn from the pack will be even less than 700ma.

    To make it all sound familiar you can use the power equation to work it out P = I x V this will give you a power output which you can use to put things into context.

    Where P = power, I = Current, and V = Voltage

    so P = .700A x 14.4

    P = 10.08W

    So if we wanted to work out the total vf of the light at 1amp we could use the equation again transposed.

    (P) 10.08W = 1 x V

    V = 10.08V

    I remember reading somewhere that each LED needs about 3V and you add 1V for the buckpuck, so thats about 10V

    If you have access to a power supply try it out.

    Remember though you cannot directly compare light's power because LEDs are very efficient light sources and they output more light per watt.
    Last edited by wilso_ac; 04-30-2007 at 03:31 PM.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    500
    Great job wilso_ac! Thanks for the kind words. The black looks sweet... just make sure the local authorities don't mistake your battery pack for a pipe bomb! lol . Peter's got a great looking light as well. It's really good to see people building nice bright lights that burn holes in garage doors and light up trails and streets. Keep it up!

  10. #10
    Spanish biker
    Reputation: msxtr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    732
    wilso_ac wowwwwwwwww, excellent brigh light, thanks for the translation to meters

    Enjoy it !!!!!

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: peterh88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by wilso_ac
    No your lights are working fine.

    The reason why they are 'only' drawing 700ma is because the total forward voltage (vf) of the LEDs does not equal 14.4V. Its probably around the 10V mark. That is the addition of the voltage required to drive each individual LED.

    If you had your lights hooked up to a bench mounted power supply that showed voltage and current and you slowly wound back the voltage you would notice the current rising as the voltage went down. At the precise moment you hit the actual vf of the three LEDs (give a bit for the loss in the driver) you would see 1amp of current being drawn from the power supply.

    Generally the cells in your batteries are going to be a higher voltage than 1.2V when charged (1.2V is a nominal voltage) and the battery voltage will be even higher than 14.4 volts, so the actual current drawn from the pack will be even less than 700ma.

    To make it all sound familiar you can use the power equation to work it out P = I x V this will give you a power output which you can use to put things into context.

    Where P = power, I = Current, and V = Voltage

    so P = .700A x 14.4

    P = 10.08W

    So if we wanted to work out the total vf of the light at 1amp we could use the equation again transposed.

    (P) 10.08W = 1 x V

    V = 10.08V

    I remember reading somewhere that each LED needs about 3V and you add 1V for the buckpuck, so thats about 10V

    If you have access to a power supply try it out.

    Remember though you cannot directly compare light's power because LEDs are very efficient light sources and they output more light per watt.
    Thanks Wilso_ac, I am a real newby when it comes to the electrical side of things.
    Tell me if I get it now, if I run an 11.1 volt battery the driver will run at around the 1 amp mark but the light will be no brighter than it is drawing 700mAmp at 14.4 volt ???

    Cheers

    Peter

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by peterh88
    Thanks Wilso_ac, I am a real newby when it comes to the electrical side of things.
    Tell me if I get it now, if I run an 11.1 volt battery the driver will run at around the 1 amp mark but the light will be no brighter than it is drawing 700mAmp at 14.4 volt ???

    Cheers

    Peter
    Thats right, in theory it will be closer to the figure I worked out above, 10.08V but in reality it could be anywhere around that figure due to many things such as heat, resistance in the wire etc. etc. As soon as your battery voltage drops below the voltage it takes to drive the 3 LEDS and the driver your light will go out.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.