I've got all the bits and after some thought come up with the following design for a round tripple xml using a cute optic and a H6flex..
Thinking it looks a bit basic at the moment...
If i only want to turn anything up to 32mm i can put some round bar into the appropriate sized collet in a ER32 chuck, like shown in this video..
If i need to go a bit larger id have to mill a stub on one end of the bar to fit into a collet..
I have seen that video a few times and it will work for the small stuff. Unfortunately the largest you can fit in an ER32 collet is 20mm (16mm for ER25) as the ER number is the outside diameter of the collet not the inside.
You're doing fine as you are and the results are the same with a lathe , the lathe is just faster.
You could always get a screw on chuck, screw it to an MT3 taper and stick it in your spindle! But what's the rush?
Rear and front cover...working on the rear cover here..I machined the front and rear cover from one piece of round ali bar. Once i've machined the two sides, one side of the front and one side of the rear. I then saw them in two and machine the remaining face for each cover.
Front cover-after i parted the two.
Main body and rear cover in the 4 jaw chuck mounted vertically
Opinion guys..
ok i've crudley manipulated this image and added in some extra slots that are present but not got a photo..should i mill a grove around the body through the middle of the horizontal slots as indicated by the black line?
Idea being that the hot air in the fins will be able to clear better...
I gotta be carefull noy to remove to much material, it weighed around 175grams before i started trying to make it look pretty..
This has to cope with 3 xmls running at 3amps
For years there has been the debate about which direction the fins should point. In the end I decided both directions is best ( in other words I couldn't make my mind up ).
This light still works today after lots of use over a couple of years and it runs cool. Not 3 XML's and I had to do it on a drill press with router bits.
GD, I'm sure you can do a similar thing only better with your mill.
Yeti i really like that light...not sure mine will look as good to be honest..
Anyway here is the updated pic of the grooves..no time to do anything tonight but will get some done tomorrow after work hopefully
Here's an update on a little bit of tonights works..had to make dinner so i didnt get to finish it..
Still need to finish the part from the front bezel to the start of the horizontal grooves..
Had a lumicycle mount in the draw so used that rather than buggering around maching a mount for it.
Looking good GD. Certainly a good testiment of what can be acheived just with a rotary table and some skill.
Make dinner...... life's hard for us blokes these days with all the extra things required from us eating into play time like cooking, vacuuming etc etc etc . Hope my wife doesn't read that sentence.
Nearly finished, just need to sort out the switch and cable gland...which will be a hirchmann M8 connector
Oring in place for the led end...
Oring in place for the driver end, which needs to be redone as i cut the oring chord to short
All put together..
What do people think on using one of my little mom switches? to small? If i used one of them i would put the switch on the right, M8 connector on the left and a status led above in the middle..
Or use one of the usual ITW switches with led in the middle as seen on the tripple P7?
And just to add, this light was machined entirely on the rotary table...wasn't as bad as it used to be now i have the 4 jaw chuck
I would go with the big switch if you have the space for it. I only use the tiny switch in my lights now due to lack of space, both work just as well but if you have created enough space then you may as well use it.
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