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  1. #201
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    Got Amoeba??

    Great to hear that everyones is digging their Amoebas, makes the weekend nights out in my freezing garage sitting right on top of my little electric heater all worth it






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  2. #202
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    I still think that's such a neat light. If I hadn't made my own rip-off I would have bought one of yours. I would also recommend yours to anyone I know getting into night riding

  3. #203
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    Feedback And A Mod

    Just got my Amoeba last week! WOW! So much I could say about it! So small, so bright, hand made, great customer service. I have yet to get it out on on a trail ride, but given how light and bright it is compared to other LEDs I have and have used, I see no reason why it won't be perfect.

    I did have on problem- the helmet mount set up with the velcro just would not work with my Lazer Genesis helmet. BUT a quick look in my bike junk drawer of discarded and little used parts had me finding a great solution- I found a rubber bar mount to be used with my heart rate monitor. Mounted the Velco strip to it, drilled a hole, use a zip tie, and bam. Problem solve.

    Thanks for a great light Jay!

    PS- The mount is a lot lower profile than it appears in the pic. Also, as you can imagine this works as a bar mount too
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Former XXC Mag publisher (re)turned amateur bike blogger at The Soiled Chamois.

  4. #204
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    A quick video from our Friday morning ride before work (5am)

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17679468?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0"></iframe>


    Notice all of them poor souls in their cars down below as we are playing on the ridge above



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  5. #205
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    another flavor

    3x Cree XP-G R5's driven at 800ma

    3 different output choices -
    1 LED (center) - ~300 lumens
    2 LED's (outer) - ~600 lumens
    3 LED's (all) - ~900 lumens

    Housing - 3/4" x 2 1/4" x 1 3/8"
    Weight - should be about 60 grams, still need to weigh it


    The trIclops -







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  6. #206
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    Right on the money!




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  7. #207
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    My EDC goes XM-L

    Built this fun little EDC (Every Day Carry) back in late '08 as a means to show people the small size of my Amoeba light and the 3 different colors of anodized aluminum I offer for the housings. Originally built up using SSC P4's. Have had some XM-L's lying on my bench for quite awhile now and threw a couple in this light. Still one of my favorites!






  8. #208
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    That looks awesome! That last picture really tells the story of the size.

    I'm curious if you have ever tested to see how many watts that case can handle in still air? I'm itching to start a another project light, and I REALLY like the lines of your setup.

  9. #209
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    I imagine the 2x XM-L puts out too much heat at 3A to be usable at full power unfortunately, right? Wonder if a heat sink with a hole for the switch would be enough surface area to make it work...

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmblur
    I imagine the 2x XM-L puts out too much heat at 3A to be usable at full power unfortunately, right? Wonder if a heat sink with a hole for the switch would be enough surface area to make it work...
    Not even close in surface area...at 1.5A it SHOULD be fine, but I believe the drivers Scar use are only regulated at 800mah anyways.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by anthonylokrn
    Not even close in surface area...at 1.5A it SHOULD be fine, but I believe the drivers Scar use are only regulated at 800mah anyways.
    Hmm, after looking at the scale pics... yeah, even with a big ol' heat sink on the entire top surface there's no way! Didn't realize quite how tiny those things are. ~10W heat / XML at 3A, right? Wonder if one with 1" sq tubing (~9" exposed surface area before heat sinking vs ~5.25" - not counting bottom). might have enough with a sufficiently low resistance heat sink...

    now where'd that thermodynamics book go...

  12. #212
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    Or you could add some heatsink to the top and sides. It would mess up the appearance a bit, but would help.

  13. #213
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    Yep, 800ma for this design is probably the limit, maybe 1 amp. Pictures have never done it justice, it is small.

    Got me some of George's boards (LFlex, b2Flex, and MaxFlex) and some XM-l's on my bench, just been trying to find some time! Got a few new designs that have been floating around in my head. Stay tuned.




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  14. #214
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    2x Cree XM-L

    2x Cree XM-L's mated up to Regina reflectors
    LFlex driver

    dimensions - 2" x 1 1/2" x 3/4"










    First time for me using one of George's drivers, got to say I am very impressed. Those XM-L's at 3.5 amps are just crazy



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  15. #215
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    What are you driving this at? It seems there might be a heat dissipation issue? It is a nice design w/ two xml's you wouldn't have to drive them at max. I guess w/ George's driver you can choose a low amperage when going slow and r-amp it up at speed.

  16. #216
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    That's the approach I'll take with the Sled lights too- I've set up with multi-levels and warned them not to use max unless you're moving well.

    Very nice job, Scar, getting it all in a nice little build. I guess you could limit the max to 2.5A and still get a lot of light.

  17. #217
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    Took it for its maiden voyage this morning at 5am. Had it set at 1500ma on the climb and bumped it up to 3500ma on the down. Had to turn it back down to 1500ma about halfway down (was using Tri-mode) as the amount of light coming out of it at 3500ma was totally distracting my buddy in front of me ( I could see him keep looking back after I had switched to full power) and totally washing out his lights. Temps were about 34 degress. Had the thermal protection set at 60 C, never saw it dip down.

    Andy13 - You from Evergreen, huh? We did Elk Meadows this morning at 5am. The winds were howling at the start but coming down Too Long was stellar.

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  18. #218
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    I am very interested.

  19. #219
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    Nice work, Scar. Keep tinkering. Looks like I might have to get something new from you later this year...

  20. #220
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    Took the new XM-L light out for another test run yesterday morning. Really digging on the driver and all of the different options.

    Here is a comparison of the XM-L light next to the standard Amoeba






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  21. #221
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    And you thought you couldn't keep up with orders before the Megamoeba!
    Crank up your price commensurate with the power and quality of your lights- you'll still get orders.
    I know an adventure racing/ orienteering forum where one posting would probably avalanche you with orders. They just put in an order for a dozen Ay-ups.
    Last edited by Ofroad'bent; 04-14-2011 at 06:41 AM.

  22. #222
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    Jay,

    For us non-electrical folks, well me really, what are the key differences between the original and the XM-L.

    It seems you can change the power output on the fly.
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  23. #223
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    Would it look daft with one of these bonded on top?

  24. #224
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    Ofroad'bent - Thanks for the positive vibes!! Got a couple more flavors using George's boards being brewed up in the brewhouse right now! Going to build a 2x XP-G version using a bFlex and a 3 XPG version using a MaxFlex. Everything will be based around the 7.4V Li-Ion packs I have been using.

    BadBoyNY - Yes, with George's boards you get a whole host of options, one being dimming. The standard Amoeba has always been single mode, it is either on or off. Never been much off a problem but I have always had people asking about dimming options. Could never fit one of Georges boards in my standard Amoeba housing, but have been dreaming about it for a long time!


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  25. #225
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    Yeah, the one big disadvantage for me using the L-flex and single XM-L is that I can't use all my nice 7.4v battery packs I use on my other lights. I'm mainly making them for others at this point. The versatility of the L-flex is all worth it for us though.

    For us multisport types, it's more about long burn times and lots of power when needed, rather than continuous high burn. We're sometimes trekking, dragging bikes through forests and swamps, slogging along slowly in muddy ATV trails, reading maps and fixing bikes, or sometimes hammering down roads or technical singletrack at night. We need lo-o-ong burn times on medium, we need a very low setting for repairs and transitions, and we need lots of lumens on tap for shorter periods.

  26. #226
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    Originally posted by Ofroad'bent
    Would it look daft with one of these bonded on top?

    Yep, going to stay with the clean lines. The larger 3/4" x 1 1/2" extrusion not only gives me more room for George's boards it also give me some more mass. I only ridden with it twice but am very impressed with its performance.



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  27. #227
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    looks very neat, I was wondering if you were considering the *flex drivers and XM-Ls, now I know!

    why 2x XP-G with a b2flex and 2S pack though? I would have thought that the lflex would be perfect for that - cheaper, smaller, same functionality and you only lose the stat LED which you don't use anyway.

  28. #228
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    Originally posted by mattthemuppet
    why 2x XP-G with a b2flex and 2S pack though? I would have thought that the lflex would be perfect for that - cheaper, smaller, same functionality and you only lose the stat LED which you don't use anyway.
    I have had the b2Flex for quite awhile, just never got around to using it. Thanks for pointing out using the lFlex for 2x XPG's, hadn't had time to think about it much.



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  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar
    I have had the b2Flex for quite awhile, just never got around to using it. Thanks for pointing out using the lFlex for 2x XPG's, hadn't had time to think about it much.



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    no worries The lflex has supplanted the b2flex for a lot of lights most people make (1-2 LEDs) - it's really only the stat LED that makes the difference for me and that's moot for helmet lights. Plus the 20mm diameter size makes all the difference when you're using tubing like your lights (and mine).

  30. #230
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    Long time since i received Amoeba and Boitatá and only now i re-started to ride. Here is my first photo (Boitata). Tomorow i´ll take some pictures during my night ride. Yesterday i almost ran over a rattlesnake because the moon was so beautifull that i turned off all lights - never again.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Amoeba received-dsc00452.jpg  


  31. #231
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    Originally posted by BrunoBB
    Long time since i received Amoeba and Boitatá and only now i re-started to ride. Here is my first photo (Boitata). Tomorrow i´ll take some pictures during my night ride. Yesterday i almost ran over a rattlesnake because the moon was so beautifull that i turned off all lights - never again.
    Hey Bruno, great to hear from you. Hope things have been going well for you in Spain!



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  32. #232
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    3x Cree XP-G's

    3x Cree XP-G's mated up to Regina reflectors
    maxFlex driver
    dimensions - 2" x 2 1/4" x 3/4"
    weight = 72 grams








    3x XP-G's w/maxFlex and 2x XM-L's w/lFlex




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  33. #233
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    you're just going wild now Scar!

  34. #234
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    2x Cree XP-G w/ b2Flex

    2x Cree XP-G's mated up to Regina reflectors
    b2Flex driver
    dimensions - 2" x 1 1/2" x 3/4"
    weight = 55 grams








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  35. #235
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    nice job

    how'd you get your housings so neat and tidy? Do you use a table saw or something? How did you pot the b2flex, by using some kind of small standoff? It must have been a lot easier getting it in there than the 1in.sq. tubing I used for mine

  36. #236
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    Originally posted by mattthemuppet
    how'd you get your housings so neat and tidy? Do you use a table saw or something? How did you pot the b2flex, by using some kind of small standoff? It must have been a lot easier getting it in there than the 1in.sq. tubing I used for mine
    End mill (manual).

    Yep, made up a small standoff out of some copper.



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  37. #237
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    Picked up the Scar's 900 lumens Amoeba a couple months ago and have to say that it's an excellent light. Really impressed with the performance so far. For me, it has a great combination of spot and flood. Also really impressed with the quality as well. Although it's a tad longer than the original Amoeba, it is tiny. Really hard to imagine just how small it is until you have it sitting in the palm of your hand.

    As for service, I can't speak to it because haven't had any problems so far. However, Scar was really helpful through the entire purchasing process and answered all my questions promptly. Anyway, I've been pretty satisfied with everything.

  38. #238
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    Thanks for the feedback jrands!

    Love to hear back from the users. Glad everything is meeting your expectations.



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  39. #239
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    Scar, Since I am a curious sort of person, do you have any beam shots of the new duel XM-L set-up? I take it both reflectors are the same type? I really am glad to see someone come up with a duel XM-L design. Actually I was expecting MagicShine to be the first to offer an affordable version but it seems you've beat the big boys to the punch.

    Now the real question: can I have one for free so I can take it apart, drown it in water just to see if it still works?........

  40. #240
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    2x Cree XM-L @ 2000ma's

    Finally got out and got some beam shots this weekend.

    2x Cree XM-L @ 2000ma's




    more to come



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  41. #241
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    New beamshots 07/31/2011

    Camera settings -
    Aperature - f/3.2
    ISO - 200
    Exposure time - 4 sec
    White balance - daylight



    Standard Amoeba @800ma's









    2x Cree XP-G with b2Flex driver @ 250ma's (L1)





    2x Cree XP-G with b2Flex driver @ 600ma's (L2)





    2x Cree XP-G with b2Flex driver @ 1200ma's (L3)






    Still to come - 3x Cree XP-G with MaxFlex driver and 2x Cree XM-L with Lflex driver



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  42. #242
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    the Level and mA values don't quite add up Scar - L2>4 are scaled dependent on L5 and L1 is (I think) always 50mA across all the *flex drivers. So, if you set L5 @1200mA, then L4 is ~650mA, L3 is ~350mA and L2 is ~150mA (off the top of my head). A rough guide is that current halves for each level down from L5. It took me some time to figure this out or, rather, for what everyone else was saying to sink in

  43. #243
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    I have been setting mine up in Three mode (L1, L2, L3)

    Measured the actual output at each level. Will double check this evening.


    Thanks.


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  44. #244
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    ah. Threemode doesn't refer to the levels, but to how you switch between them. You always have to specify L5 (max drive current), then two out of L1 to L4. I have mine set up as L5=1.2A and Threemode (L1>L4-L5), so I cycle between L4 and L5 with a click, then L1 with a press. Trimode in contrast is Lx-Ly-L5, where "-" is a click, so to get from L5 to Ly, you have to go through Lx.

    Given that those are actual current readings (that's thorough!), my guess is that you have yours set as L2 or L3>L4-L5, with L5=1.2A, especially as L1 is just enough light to tie my shoelaces and a bigger drop compared to the other levels that what your beamshots show. 2x XP-G R5s really rock @1.2A with Reginas - I'm super happy with mine and I'm sure you'll have a lot of happy customers. I actually upgraded one XP-G to an XM-L T6 which broadened the spot nicely - I'm going to change both to XM-L U2s and up the current to 1.5A when it cools down a bit, as it currently trips a fair bit with the heat (and slow riding).

    Anyway, hope I haven't come across as patronising. The *flex drivers took me a while to get my head around but they're well worth the effort once I did!

  45. #245
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    mattthemuppet - You did not come off as patronizing at all, just the opposite.

    I have a few customers that like to "Bike Pack" that really enjoy the low level 1. Like to stretch their batteries and don't need much light when the moon is up and by themselves.



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  46. #246
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    phew, that's a relief

    I think the Threemode is just about the best way of controlling a mtb light ever. I've used L1 a lot for riding to the trail head or fixing flats/ finding my phone/etc, L4 for climbing and L5 for the flats/ DH. Being able to go straight from Med to High to Med again, without touching Low is just awesome.

    Oh, and if you're thinking of improvements you could make to your lights, I really recommend remotes. I made one for my bar light and I've never used the switch on the light itself. I'm not sure how you could incorporate it into your design (or even if there's a demand for it), but it would be worth thinking about.

  47. #247
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    A little help please...

    I have the standard Amoeba running at 800mA and love it. I'm ready to order another one and am considering upgrading to the new 2x Cree XP-G with b2Flex driver.

    One of my concerns is balancing battery life and power WITHOUT having to switch levels while on the trail. The speeds on the single track around here fluctuate constantly. Our tight and some can be pretty technical. The climbs are short and steep as are the downhills. There really aren't a lot of places to take your hands off the bars without stopping.

    So I want a light source that is pretty much constant, but having a low level for repairs, hike-a-bike or BS sessions would be nice. I don't think I want less than 800mA while riding. It would be nice to be able to bump it up, but I want to keep run times around 2.5 hours or more. I also don't want the thing over heating.

    Would running it at a constant 1200mA might cutting it close in terms both run time and heat?

    Can I configure the levels without any special tools or knowledge or should this be decided before the build?

    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    the Level and mA values don't quite add up Scar - L2>4 are scaled dependent on L5 and L1 is (I think) always 50mA across all the *flex drivers. So, if you set L5 @1200mA, then L4 is ~650mA, L3 is ~350mA and L2 is ~150mA (off the top of my head). A rough guide is that current halves for each level down from L5. It took me some time to figure this out or, rather, for what everyone else was saying to sink in
    So if I understand this correctly, having it set up to run at 1200ma and 800mA is not an option?

    Last question, will the new driver dim the light when the battery drains below a certain level or the temps get too high?
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  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohiomoto View Post
    A little help please...

    I have the standard Amoeba running at 800mA and love it. I'm ready to order another one and am considering upgrading to the new 2x Cree XP-G with b2Flex driver.

    One of my concerns is balancing battery life and power WITHOUT having to switch levels while on the trail. The speeds on the single track around here fluctuate constantly. Our tight and some can be pretty technical. The climbs are short and steep as are the downhills. There really aren't a lot of places to take your hands off the bars without stopping.

    So I want a light source that is pretty much constant, but having a low level for repairs, hike-a-bike or BS sessions would be nice. I don't think I want less than 800mA while riding. It would be nice to be able to bump it up, but I want to keep run times around 2.5 hours or more. I also don't want the thing over heating.

    Would running it at a constant 1200mA might cutting it close in terms both run time and heat?

    Can I configure the levels without any special tools or knowledge or should this be decided before the build?

    Last question, will the new driver dim the light when the battery drains below a certain level or the temps get too high?
    The B-flex has a tri-mode option that allows you to custom set each level.
    You could have one full mode, one almost full, and one low. It's fiddly to program, but needs no tools, just a lot of button presses.

    It will warn you when the battery's low, and dim if it overheats.

  49. #249
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    well, to tread on Scar's toes a little bit more

    The b2flex has 4 modes - fivemode (all five, click to scroll through each one), duomode (2 modes, click to change), trimode (3 modes, click to change) and threemode (3 modes, Med and High are in their own loop). So if you want 1 high power mode and a low mode for trailside stuff, then Duomode would do that fine.

    Heat - running it at 1200mA will cause the thermal monitoring to trip if it's hot out or you slow right down below walking speed, but other than that you should be fine. It depends to some degree where Scar sets the thermal trip point, but that's he's design decision.

    Battery life - Scar'll have to weigh in on that one as I don't know the capacity of the pack that he sells. Whatever the capacity, running it at 1200mA constant will cut runtime compared to switching between med and high to some degree.

    1200mA and 800mA - nope, levels 2-4 are predetermined, depending on what L5 is set as. They were picked by George as offering the best steps in output that your eyes register (as opposed to steps in current), so I'm guessing he knows what he's doing

    The driver can be set to flash at Med battery, Low battery and flash continuously or shut off at Empty. There's no dimming. However, when the thermal protection triggers, the light automatically drops to L3 and won't allow you to go back up until temps have dropped.

    I hear what you're saying about not having time to let go of the bars as I have a similar problem (very rocky trails), so now I tend to leave my helmet light on high all the time and use a remote to switch between Med and High on my bar light. If I'm going on a longer night ride, then I can use the Med setting on my helmet light for climbing. I'd recommend the Threemode - if you don't need to drop the light output, then you can leave in on High the whole time, but at least you'll have the option there.

    You can program these yourself, even if you can't count above 10 like me, but it takes a bit of practice. I'd recommend getting it set by Scar and then perhaps tweaking it with advice later if needed as some of the menus can be complicated/ confusing and a few of them (battery warnings, temp protection etc) are really important to get right.

  50. #250
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    ohiomoto - your scenario is exactly why I have been digging on the three mode set-up. Ride at L2 for most situation, bump it up to L1 for downhills and when more light is needed. This is a quick button press to cycle between L2 and L1. When you ar BS'ing ar doing a repair, then a button hold drops the output down to L3.

    Let me mess with the programming and see what the final output measure. I have just been using the defaults for L2 and L3. Pretty sure both can be bumped up getting L2 closer to 800 lumens, just need to measure once reprogrammed

    8.3 Three clicks – UIBmode select or UIF/UIP Selection
    This menu option behaves differently, depending on whether the firmware is set to UIB2/UIB2Q
    Base Mode or UIF/UIP Base Mode (see Sec 8.13)
    For UIB2/UIB2Q Base Mode:
    The circuit can be configured to operate in either a simple 2 level mode (Duomode), 3 level mode (2
    level toggle called Threemode), 3 level mode (Trimode) or a more elaborate and flexible 5 level
    mode (Multimode). The force setting (Sec 8.1) will be ignored if Duomode, Threemode or Trimode
    are enabled.
    For Duomode, Threemode and Trimode:
    Initially the LED will be dim (actual L1 in this case) to indicate that L1 is chosen. Each click will cycle
    to the next choice and wrap back to the beginning.
    • 0 click (actual L1) → low level L1 select
    • 1 click (actual L2) → low level L2 select (default when UIB2 is first selected)
    • 2 click (actual L3) → low level L3 select
    • 3 click (actual L4) → low level L4 select
    When you are satisfied with the choice, press to save the setting. For Duomode you are done and
    the LED will flash twice to indicate that the selection has been made and then go dim to indicate
    that it has returned to the Menu mode for the next selection. For Threemode, Trimode the LED will
    flash once and then go dim to wait for you to select the intensity for the user configurable medium
    level.
    For Threemode and Trimode only:
    Initially the LED will be dim (actual L1 in this case) to indicate that L1 is chosen. Each click will cycle
    to the next choice and wrap back to the beginning.
    • 0 click (actual L1) → medium level L1 select
    • 1 click (actual L2) → medium level L2 select
    • 2 click (actual L3) → medium level L3 select (default when UIB2 is first selected)
    • 3 click (actual L4) → medium level L4 select


    Battery life at 800ma is going to be about 3.5 hrs, about 2 hrs at 1200ma

    Ofroad'bent and mattthemuppet - Thanks for constructive input.


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  51. #251
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    Thanks for all the helpful input. I have a much better understanding now. I have my order in and I'm sure Jay will get it set up right. I just wanted to have a better understanding of the driver and options.
    Need some cool clothing, Merino Wool, or a tour of Pisgah? Check out www.PisgahWorks.com Pisgah Works, more than just shirts!

  52. #252
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    Beamshots

    OK, Going to try this again and get these beamshot all in one post.

    Camera settings -
    Aperature - f/3.2
    ISO - 200
    Exposure time - 4 sec
    White balance - daylight


    2x Cree XP-G with b2Flex driver programmed in Three mode
    low (default of L2) measured @~250ma's




    medium (default of L3) measured @~600ma's



    high measured @~1200ma's







    3x Cree XP-G with MaxFlex driver programmed in Three mode
    low (not sure of TaskLed level) measured @~350ma's




    medium (not sure of TaskLed level) measured @~600ma's



    high (not sure of TaskLed level) measured @~1500ma's








    2xCree XM-L with LFlex driver programmed in Three mode
    low (not sure of TaskLed level) measured @~400ma's



    medium(not sure of TaskLed level) measured @~800ma's



    high(not sure of TaskLed level) measured @~2000ma's



    ***

  53. #253
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    Thanks for posting these Scar. I find them very interesting. The XM-L certainly puts out more light close in, but it looks on my monitor like the twin XP-G delivers a more even beam with just as much or even more throw. Until we have more efficient optics (or maybe use aspherical lenses) for the XM-L, it looks like the XP-G may still be just as effective and use less power.

  54. #254
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    Are these available in the US? Where can I get more info?

  55. #255
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    natac - I need to try again and pay more attention to where I am aiming the lights. I was right next to a small creek and was just getting mauled by the mosquitoes! I agree though, we need some XM-L specific reflectors.

    BlueMoon100 - doesn't look like you are interested in purchasing from your other thread, but I will go ahead and answer you anyways. Yes, these are available in the US, from me. I have been building my Amoeba light for about 4 years now, got them all around the world. I am a one man operation. I buy all the raw materials and have to modify almost every component to get them to fit in my housings. I am just trying to raise my kids in today's world, perform at my job during the day, build some lights on Friday and Saturday nights, and trying to get a bike ride in there somewhere. 95% of my riding is done in the dark at 5am because of all of my other commitments, therefore I need lights. I also like sharing my stuff with others that value a handmade, custom light and the service that goes with it.

    These are some of the reasons some people purchase my lights -

    1. - Size
    2. - Weight
    3. - Non proprietary batteries
    4. - Customer service
    5. - Made by someone who uses his lights on an almost daily basis and knows the importance of reliability and has the same passion for biking.

    If interested you can PM me or email me (see my signature) and Iwill get you in my build que.



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  56. #256
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    Beam shots look great Jay.

    I put in my order for the new flavor and I'm looking forward to my next light. My standard Amoeba light is the envy of all my friends (using $$$$ Light and Motion lights), can't wait to for them to see the new one.

    Keep up the good work.
    Need some cool clothing, Merino Wool, or a tour of Pisgah? Check out www.PisgahWorks.com Pisgah Works, more than just shirts!

  57. #257
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    2x Cree XM-L from amoeba

    Got to ride using amoeba's new light last nite.
    1. It is small
    2. The output is unbelievable
    I will track battery life for each mode by end of week. I am very impressed with the quality put into this light. The customer service that Scar has provided to me was top notch too. I emailed 3 light makers and companies and Scar was the only one to get back to me at all!!
    I still have yet to here from the other 2.
    I still can't believe how small this light is and put out that much power. I thought i didn't get the whole light at first.

  58. #258
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    Special request

    3x Cree XM-L's
    Ledil Regina reflectors
    H6Flex driver set to 2000ma's max output
    powered by a 14.8V Li-Ion battery
    2 1/4" wide x 2 1/8" long x 3/4" tall






    Going to be used on the bars of an offroad motorcycle and mountainbike

    ***

  59. #259
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    Some quick beamshots of the 3x XM-L light from this mornings ride.

    Camera settings -
    Aperature - f/3.2
    ISO - 200
    Exposure time - 4 sec
    White balance - daylight


    2x XP-G's on med (600ma's)




    3x XM-L's on low (450ma's)



    3x XM-L's on med (1000ma's)



    3x XM-L's on high (2000ma's)





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  60. #260
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    That's a lot of light! Have to be travelling at a fair old rate of knots to keep it cool though I imagine.

  61. #261
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    scar, I notice that your beam shots don't show the sharp cut-off around the perimeter normally associated with the Regina’s.

    Is the cut-off there and maybe a wider camera lens would show it? or is it due to (what looks like) the removal of some of the front of the reflector?

    How much have you removed from the front of the reflector(if anything)?

    This is what I'm getting from my Regina's. I can't go slower than 1/8th [email protected] f 2.8 with my camera so ignore the lack of ooomph.

  62. #262
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    Originally posetd by yetibety
    I notice that your beam shots don't show the sharp cut-off around the perimeter normally associated with the Regina’s.


    Interesting observation, hadn't really noticed. Will have to look thru my photos and see if I have one from farther behind the camera

    I whack down the Reginas to an overall height of .600"


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  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    Interesting observation, hadn't really noticed. Will have to look thru my photos and see if I have one from farther behind the camera

    I whack down the Reginas to an overall height of .600"
    I cut the sides down on 2 Reginas to "conjoin" them in one of my lights. It makes a slightly "softer" pattern to the sides. It is really only noticeable if pointing at a wall. I can't see it when riding.

    I have wondered what the Amoeba beam would look like if the end of the Regina was cut to a square to fit the tubing instead of cut shorter overall. Not enough to cut up a set though to try

  64. #264
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    Thanks scar for the reply.

    I think that going by your pictures in post 252 the removal of some of the front of the Regina's has put the dark part of the beam closer to the the bike.


    I'll have to shorten some to find out but I dont think my front plate is helping as in the end it is adding length to the reflector.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfj197 View Post
    That's a lot of light! Have to be travelling at a fair old rate of knots to keep it cool though I imagine.
    You might be surprised. On my 2xXML, 2000ma is no-go for climbing, but 1000ma is no problem. 1500 was also fine for climbing earlier in the year when the temps were cooler - I haven't done any night riding recently (too much sun to enjoy during the day, too much homework at night), so I don't know all the limits yet.

  66. #266
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    I am considering one of these lights and have a cuople of questions for current users.

    How is the waterproof rating on these? Can it survive a few Pacific Northwest winters where the thing may never entirely dry?

    Do the handlebar mounts fit a road bike 31.8 mm bar which are now pretty standard?

    Does using velcro on the mounts feel secure enough?

  67. #267
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    Waterproof?

    Mine have survived two autums/winters/spring of BC rain with no problems at all. Riding two to three times a week, in rain and snow.

    Bar mount?

    Comes with enough padding to manage most bars I've fitted them to

    Velcro mount:

    Pretty stable, but new ones have a clip on connection for the lights, only the battery is velcro mounted. On the helmet no problem at all, on the bike, I add a strap to keep the battery in position, though you could try without.

    Summary great lights, good price, fantastic service....


    Regards

    David

  68. #268
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    Thanks ZADavid

    Was hoping one of my customers would take some time from night riding and chime in. Yep, got them in some real wet places around the world and have not had any problems with moisture.




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  69. #269
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    Finally made some time to make myself a new light!

    I have been rockin' my Troll bar light since May, 08





    Mounted it to my previous bike and only removed it to mount it on my current ride. 6x SSC P4's. Has been an excellent light, no issues, bright, and always gets a lot of comments. I have been kind of embarrassed when asked what type of LED's are in it that they over 3 years old and are not they latest and greatest.


    Well, I was finding not finding any extra time with the days getting shorter and 24 hr race season in full swing, so I took a few days off from my real job and squeezed out a new bar light for myself.



    4x Cree XM-L's (2S2P)
    LFlex driver set in three mode, L1 = .50ma's, L2 = 1.40ma's, L3 = 3.25ma's (as measured)





    This is going to a fun little bar light



    ***

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    Well, I was finding not finding any extra time with the days getting shorter and 24 hr race season in full swing, so I took a few days off from my real job and squeezed out a new bar light for myself.



    4x Cree XM-L's (2S2P)
    LFlex driver set in three mode, L1 = .50ma's, L2 = 1.40ma's, L3 = 3.25ma's (as measured)
    I assume you mean amps and not milliamps.

    Anyway, I'd always wondered about the heat dissipation of those amoebas. They look a bit small on surface area to be running that much current through. Am I missing something, or do you just ride fast or turn it down?

    If I recall, your usual amoebas are limited to well under 3A (I assume for this reason). Maybe the version you build for yourself is the "non-user-friendly" version that has the potential to fry itself if you do something stupid?

  71. #271
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    yep, meant amps. You may be missing that the LED's are wired 2S2P and the LED's are only seeing half of the 3.25 amps on high. Not much moticeable increase in light output of the XM-L's over 2 amps so 3.25 amp / 2 is a sweet spot for a lot of light and reasonble heat generation.

    The 3/4" x 1 1/2" extrusion used for the main body on the newer style has a thicker wall thickness plus 3/4 inch longer in length, so a little more square area.

    I don't ride with full power on the slow uphill climbs. Usually run medium for the ups, on high for the downs. Just needs a little bit of air traveling across the light head and it handles the heat just find.

    No "non friendly" vesions being built, even for myself, as I don't have the time to repair lights, barely having enough time to build new ones


    Thanks for wondering


    ****

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    yep, meant amps. You may be missing that the LED's are wired 2S2P and the LED's are only seeing half of the 3.25 amps on high.
    Yep, I missed that, thanks for pointing that out.

    Wall thickness shouldn't matter, really, right? I seem to recall reading that it thickness is preferred for fluctuating heat demands, but not as useful for constant ones.

    Also--does your temperature protection cut in at all?

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    that is my new desktop background
    2009 Jamis Trail X2
    2002 Raleigh Mountain Scout
    2008 Trek fuel ex7

  74. #274
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    Some beam shots from this mornings ride

    Here are some beam shots of my new 4x XM-L (2S2P) bar light. Had to drop down from 4 sec exposure to 2 sec as the photos were totally washing out. About a 2hr ride with an even use of high and medium. Don't know how much battery (7.4V 4800ma 2S2P pack) I used. No thermal tripping, but it was a little crisp this morning at about 50 degrees. Worked great for me, just what I was wanting!


    Camera settings -
    Aperature - f/3.2
    ISO - 200
    Exposure time - 2 sec
    White balance - daylight



    L1 - 500ma's




    L2 - 1400ma's




    L2 - 1400ma's





    ***

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I have wondered what the Amoeba beam would look like if the end of the Regina was cut to a square to fit the tubing instead of cut shorter overall. Not enough to cut up a set though to try
    i've done just that on my light, will post a pic when i get a chance. the output is kinda square because some of the light reflects off the flat aluminum surface where there is no reflector.

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riken View Post
    i've done just that on my light, will post a pic when i get a chance. the output is kinda square because some of the light reflects off the flat aluminum surface where there is no reflector.
    Cool. Looking forward to seeing the pic.

  77. #277
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    I like to ride my bike in the dark!

    Here is a snippet of one of our before work rides at 5 am. Trail is called the Dakota Ridge/Dinosaur Ridge/The Hogback. Very cool ride that takes you along the ridge of a hogback feature. Here is what it looks like in the day time - Dakota/RidgeRedRocks.



    There are even some dinosaur tracks in the rock in one of the areas -

    .


    Sheer cliffs to both sides in most parts. White lights you see in the video on the right are houses. Lights on the left side are cars on the highway commuting to work. No better way to start your day!


    <iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/30216518?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="640" height="424" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe>



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  78. #278
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    I wanted to add to this thread and thank Jay for my new light. I just received my XPG 2x this weekend and will be trying it out tomorrow night. I have to say Jay has been extremely patient with my million questions. When the light actually came I couldn't stop laughing at how small the light head actually is. This light is a perfect setup for my helmet and have no questions that I will be purchasing another in the future for my bars. The only complaint about the setup I have is that the jumper cable that can extend where the batter is placed looks a little crude. Part of the cable was cut and changed out for another end connector and to re-seal the cable a wrap was placed over the cable. To me, it just does not look as clean as I would have expected. Other than that I am thoroughly impressed and glad that I went with Jay for my light.

    Josh

  79. #279
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    Got Amoeba.....

    on your airplane???





    Had someone inquire a while back about building a light for an airplane. He is running a 2x Cree XP-G w/b2Flex driver and looks like he decided on duo mode. This is from his email -

    I finally was able to get some night shots of my landing light setup. It is ideal for my use. I am using duo mode with 1000 mA for high beam, L2 for low beam. It is ideal for my application. High beam lights up what I need while low beam is reduced enough not to destroy the night vision of every pilot in the region.







  80. #280
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    Take off / Landing lights

    Mounted under the wings







    View from the cockpit










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  81. #281
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    Jay
    Whats the inner tube for zip tied to the front of your forks?

  82. #282
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    Ghetto fender - keeps alot of those little pebbles out of your eyes when railing the downhills. You can see them in some of my videos, look like popcorn coming up from the bottom of the screen. Don't need it in dry conditions but when it starts getting moist the small pebbles like sticking to your tires



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  83. #283
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    I guess the official term is Mud Flaps



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  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluewar View Post
    Scar, what type of velcro do you use to secure your lights, if you don't mind me asking? Where is it available?
    TIA
    I'm not Scar, but it's 3M Dual Lock. I got mine on eBay.

  85. #285
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    Thanks Offroad"bent


    Industrial Strength Velcro for basic helmet mounting





    Dual Lock when using helmet mount




    or handlebar mount




    The DualLock requires for two flats surfaces to work. When trying to use it on the curved surface of the helmet you only get a very narrow contact patch down the center of the DualLock that is attached to the helmet



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  86. #286
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    Lookin' good, scar!

    It's been a while since I built anything...I'm gonna have to pick your brain before I do. I have been recommending your lights to people that email me though. I'm not set up in my new shop yet...and really don't plan on doing anything but fun projects for myself.

  87. #287
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    is that a temperature gauge for your top cap?

  88. #288
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    chelboed - Thanks. Saw you poke your head in the other day, welcome back. I have been pretty much living out in my garage building lights lately.

    Riken - yes it is a thermometer from StemCAPtain. They also do a clock, compass, picture holder, and a bottle opener.



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  89. #289
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    Diggin' the 4x with the 2x2 wings. That setup is probably enough to melt snow off the trail, LOL.

  90. #290
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    Another custom build

    2x XP-G w /LFex driver headband mounted






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  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    2x XP-G w /LFex driver headband mounted






    ***
    Nice setup on a great light. Might have been a bit cleaner set further back, so it doesn't protrude so far.

    I set up a flat plate of Dual-lock on the front of my headband, but I also secure it with Velcro One-wrap over the front of the light mount. Not as secure as yours, but can be moved quickly and easily.

  92. #292
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    Thanks Offroad I was concerned about the cable exiting the housing having to make to sharp bend right out of the cable gland if pushed rearward any, so that is where it ended up, nice smooth bend transition up to the battery.

    Go to test it out last night, got home and needed to get some Christmas lights put up on the roof before the snow storm came in last night, threw the headband mounted light on and away I went. I couldn't help but laugh as most of my neighbors had the same idea but most were using basic flashlights that barely lit up the area in front of them. I could light up their whole roof with my light from across the street.


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  93. #293
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    I'm running home with one of my XM-L lights on a headband. I have it set up in 5-mode, and rarely need 3 or higher to run through the forest. Now the snow's fallen I'm using level 1 and 2.
    I did see quite a few pairs of eyes last night at a fair distance, which turned out to be an entire herd of deer once I cranked it up to 3A.

  94. #294
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    Great morning for a ride!














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  95. #295
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    Nuts I says! Absolutely nuts!

  96. #296
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    nice job! Looks lovely and crunchy Mine wasn't quite as bad last night, only 28F, but it was fun in the twistys when I wasn't sure if the corner was frozen or sloppy+slippery until I got there.

    I love winter night riding, it's so much fun. Hopefully I'll be able to keep riding singletrack for longer this year as I've found a great spot not far from where I live (the main trails here are lethal in the snow).

    Is that a Diesel on the front? How'd you find it in the snow and slush? I'm using Rubber Queens (chuckle) and they're working a treat right now.

  97. #297
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    Vancbiker - the hardest part is getting out of the warm car. Once you get going you really start to heat up nicely.

    Matt- Good eye. My buddy a boatload of them on sale last year for like $5 a piece. They are 2.5's so they do pretty well. My favorite snow tire is still Schwalbe Fat Alberts


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  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    Vancbiker - the hardest part is getting out of the warm car. Once you get going you really start to heat up nicely.
    Hah! You're not changing my mind that easy. Next it will be "no, really, it's not bad. It's a dry cold"

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    Vancbiker - the hardest part is getting out of the warm car. Once you get going you really start to heat up nicely.

    Matt- Good eye. My buddy a boatload of them on sale last year for like $5 a piece. They are 2.5's so they do pretty well. My favorite snow tire is still Schwalbe Fat Alberts


    ***
    I agree - tbh I usually have more of a problem keeping cool, apart from the extremities which is fixed with hotpockets (not the edible kind, the other ones).

    I had a Diesel 2.5 for a couple of years, great tire in anything other than mud (which was most of the year in Bristol) when it was scary as hell.

  100. #300
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    Short clip from Fridays ride

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/33550650?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="800" height="530" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>


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  101. #301
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    it's funny how the tunnel vision effect makes it look like you're riding along the edge of an abyss (are you?)

  102. #302
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    The trail is called Chimney Gulch. ~1300 feet of elevation gain over ~3.5 miles. Definitely some real steep sections to roll down if you go off the side.



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  103. #303
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    wow, cool looking trail! An out and back I'm guessing?

    this is where I do most of my riding, especially on that knife edge ridge above Treaster Kettle Rd. Lots and lots of rock plus great views.

  104. #304
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    Winter Solstice morning ride

    Yep, I like to ride my bike all year long







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  105. #305
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    Add me to the list of happy customers. I received my standard version today and I am just amazed at that tiny thing puts out so much light! I can't wait to hit the trails.

  106. #306
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    X Post

    I wanted to post up this info in this thread from another thread titled Cold Weather Battery Issues in the Lights & Night Riding Forum as I have been asked about this quite a few times but had no personal experience lower that 7 degrees F.



    From a recent customer in Anchorage, Alaska




    How low can you go? (in my best limbo voice)


    ***

  107. #307
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    Been banging out quite a few of these lately!

    2x Cree XM-L's with Ledil Regina reflectors and LFlex driver




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  108. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    2x Cree XM-L's with Ledil Regina reflectors and LFlex driver




    ***
    What do those cost? Can they run off a Geoman pack? Have always wanted to try one of your lights. It would probably go well with my new 7-up build . Oh, and how hard are the XML driven?
    "It looks flexy"

  109. #309
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    f*** that's cold!

  110. #310
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    gticlay - PM sent



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  111. #311
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    Crafted some micro brews this weekend

    a little bit of everything




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  112. #312
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    glad to see things are still going strong. I like the polished one - how do you keep them from tarnishing? I polished my bar light with Mother's Alu polish (originally got it to clear a car headlight) and it's dulled considerably since then, especially with sweat dripping down.

    Also, I see you're still rocking the Reginas. Ever had any interest in trying out optics? I know a lot like the Regina beam pattern, but quite a few like a smoother pattern too (myself included).

    Final Q - do you use Judco switches? Which one do you use with the *flex drivers?

  113. #313
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    Hey thanks Matt. These are all anodized finishes. Dark bronze, matte silver, and bright silver (chrome) on the standard units. Matte silver for the other two.

    Not sure why, but I have always used reflectors. I like the beam they produce (no problems with throwing for me ).

    Yes I use the Jusco switches. The standard on/off switch for my standard units and the Mom/NO tactile feel switch for the TaskLED drivers


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  114. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    wow, cool looking trail! An out and back I'm guessing?
    You can keep going over the top & roll down Apex


    Good to scar's back at it in his laboratory.
    Trailwrecker at large

  115. #315
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    2012 Iditarod Invitational (foot, bike, ski)

    Been watching the the 2012 Iditarod Invitational but not really paying any attention to names. Best coverage was in this thread in the Fatbike forum - Iditarod Trail Invitaional 2012.

    These guys had some crazy weather to deal with. Blizzard snowstorm hit right before the race started so these guys were pushing their bikes thru waist/chest deep snow. Many racers bailed because of these conditions, few slogged on. Well, the first one to cross the line this year was on a bike and his name is Pete Basinger. Why does that name sound so familiar? Search thru my emails and find out that Pete is an Amoeba customer.

    Found this article on the race and a few pics of the the conditions - Photos: 2012 Iditarod Trail Invitational | Alaska Dispatch

    and this would be a photo of Pete with an Amoeba light mounted to his handle bar! -



    How cool is that!!! Shot him an email but don't expect to hear from him for a bit until he recovers some.


    ***

  116. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    Been watching the the 2012 Iditarod Invitational but not really paying any attention to names. Best coverage was in this thread in the Fatbike forum - Iditarod Trail Invitaional 2012.

    These guys had some crazy weather to deal with. Blizzard snowstorm hit right before the race started so these guys were pushing their bikes thru waist/chest deep snow. Many racers bailed because of these conditions, few slogged on. Well, the first one to cross the line this year was on a bike and his name is Pete Basinger. Why does that name sound so familiar? Search thru my emails and find out that Pete is an Amoeba customer.

    Found this article on the race and a few pics of the the conditions - Photos: 2012 Iditarod Trail Invitational | Alaska Dispatch

    and this would be a photo of Pete with an Amoeba light mounted to his handle bar! -



    How cool is that!!! Shot him an email but don't expect to hear from him for a bit until he recovers some.


    ***
    Hey, that IS cool. Sounds like good blog material.
    "It looks flexy"

  117. #317
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    neat, I didn't realise that chrome anodising was an option.

    I've ridden with Reginas for a while (just about to get rid of the last one in my commuting light), I just find that the sharp transition from bright spot to dim spill messes with my ability to see multiple lines through rock gardens. I prefer a smoother beam, so I've been moving gradually to all optics, although they have their own drawbacks too

    thanks for the heads up on the Judco switches. I'm going to get one of the wired ones to use as a remote - certainly beats making one yourself, especially for $2.50, and with the screw on cap it's completely waterproof!

  118. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post


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    I guess they work in the cold then?! Those guys are completely off the chart bonkers, I have the utmost respect for them.

  119. #319
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    If I could only use a word to describe Jay's work, the word would be "Amazing"

    Jay has been patient with me and my numerous questions.

    2x XP-G2 LFlex
    GoPro mount for use with GoPro mountings

    Its so small that the GoPro mount looks huge!

    Thank you Jay!







    Comparison with a 5mm LED

  120. #320
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    WooHoo!!!

    Right on, glad to see the light made it to Singapore

    I can't wait till you get out and light that thing up in the night time!!!!



    Amoeba lights are now shipping with latest Cree XP-G2 LED's. Interbike just happened and all the major manufactures are releasing their 2013 line ups, not sure if anyone is using the XP-G2's yet. Why wait when you can get them now!



    ***

  121. #321
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    Isn't there going to be a good bit of heat involved using that 3S pack? If driven at the 1.5A max, wouldn't that be north of 9watts of heat to dissipate?

    Unless the emitters are paralleled instead of series, and the lflex is running somewhere round 3A, and that's a 3P pack, then it all makes sense.

  122. #322
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    Scar,
    what are you using to glue your lens covers on? It is very clean looking and I am envious as this is one thing I can't seem to manage w/o looking pretty ghetto.
    thanks.
    andy

  123. #323
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    adrenalnjunky - posted in the pic are a 2S 2600mah pack and a 2S2P 5200mah pack (yeah, they are super small also). LFlex is set to 1.5amps max

    andy - thanks for the kind words. I use Dow Corning 732 RTV Sealant. I place a piece of painters tape across the front lens during the sealing process, then remove after done cleaning everything up.


    ***

  124. #324
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    ahh - I see it now, initially it looked like a 2S and 3S pack. I love how well your housings go together.

  125. #325
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    Scar,
    thanks for the reply. You are so helpful. I have learned alot from your designs. It sounds like you put the lens cover on and run a bead of silicone on the outside. It looks like there may be a small 'lip' where the metal body sticks out a little past your lens cover. So it sounds like you put your meticulously cut lens cover on w/ the blue tape covering all but the edge of the lens cover, making for a nice thin layer of silicone on the outside of the lens cover holding it in place. Thanks again for the inspiration.

  126. #326
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    you can also, if you have a very steady hand, good eyes and a sharp tooth pick, add a bead of 5min epoxy to seal the lens. It probably won't have as sharp an edge as Scar's professional work, but it's easy enough to do and hard to see as it's clear and only 1-2mm wide.

  127. #327
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    Weights







    totally RAD.

  128. #328
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    [QUOTE=jason6142004;9717763]If I could only use a word to describe Jay's work, the word would be "Amazing"

    Jay has been patient with me and my numerous questions.

    2x XP-G2 LFlex
    GoPro mount for use with GoPro mountings

    Its so small that the GoPro mount looks huge!

    Thank you Jay!



    Comparison with a 5mm LED

    Does anybody know what type of go pro mount this is? Im referring to the part that attached to the body of the lamp. I have a couple of helmet lights that I want to convert over to go pro compatible mounts.

    I had to remove the links because of my post count is not high enough.

  129. #329
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    I got it from TrailTorch


    ***

  130. #330
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    Jay does very fine work. Easily the best light from an mtbr member for every day use.
    "It looks flexy"

  131. #331
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    Scar, are you still making and selling lights?

  132. #332
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    Oh yeah!

    Shoot an email to the address below and I will get you some details. If you sent me an email already and I have not responded yet, this weekend had been super busy.

    *****

  133. #333
    how heavy are you ??
    Reputation: Scottay5150's Avatar
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    I sent you an email last week. Did you get it?

  134. #334
    Go faster!
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    wow amoeba still shipping?

  135. #335
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    Scotty5150 - sorry it took me a few days to respond to your email. I will get you fixed right up.

    sergio_pt - oh yeah

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