3x SSC P7 need your help for newbie- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    3x SSC P7 need your help for newbie

    I'm doing a diy for 3 SSC P7 led on Aluminum 1inch tubing. I need some help picking a good budget driver.

    My first question is should I run 1 driver for all 3 leds or can I run separate driver for each led?

    This is the one I would get if i run separate driver for each led:
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

    Or, I can run this to power all three leds:
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.26110

    I'll be powering it with 7.4v 4000mah lipo pack.


    I'm new at diy, so any tip would be appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Whichever you want, but not with those drivers. Either you take something like http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20330 for each one or look for a http://www.taskled.com/h6cc.html at TaskLED and set it to 6A or less. But this will suck you battery dry really quick.
    Last edited by Toaster79; 11-28-2010 at 02:40 PM.

  3. #3
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    ........... this link works (i always check they work ;-) ...)
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20330

    http://www.taskled.com/techh6cc.html

    ..the ssc p7 is usually driven at its max current rating of 2.8 Amps (each one)
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79
    But this will suck your battery dry really quick.
    If I remember correctly, Vf is 3.7 @ 2.8 Amp for the P7, then add in about 10% for the driver loss (can be more on cheap drivers), and you are about 11.4 watt each, so 34.2 Watts total, and 34.2 Watt-hours of battery capacity for each hour at full power. Being able to throttle back and extend runtime might be a good idea, even if it is just turning one or two off. But you can get one or more packs to get it done for some weight and cost. This is better to know at the start, trust me.

  5. #5
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    Wow at 2.8amps, my battery will run out very quickly. I'm starting to think twice about running 2 of P7's now.

  6. #6
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    Why P7s? Three or four XPGs @ 1A each is quite a lot of light - and _much_ longer runtime.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by klynk
    Why P7s? Three or four XPGs @ 1A each is quite a lot of light - and _much_ longer runtime.

    I didn't know anything about xp-g's. Why would you go with xp-g?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericepark
    I didn't know anything about xp-g's. Why would you go with xp-g?
    I already went
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=661529
    IMO, 3*XPG @ 1A with Reginas would be perfect in terms of runtime/light (and 4 would be even better, of course ).
    XPG gives about 350-370 lumen @ 1A, P7 gives about 600-700 lumen @ 2,8A - so, XPGs are much more efficient.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericepark
    I didn't know anything about xp-g's. Why would you go with xp-g?
    Because they are MUCH more efficient than P7s. However, they are single-die-package, as opposed to P7 which is 4-die-package LED. For the same amount of light you will typically need larger housing with XP-Gs.

  10. #10
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    This is the best way to design/build a light system. To think it through before you buy your way into a ystem that will not do as you hoped, is the smart way to go. Getting help in that process, when needed, is even smarter.

    OK. I elected to go 2 x 3 XPG instead of 2 x P7. So you know my bias.

    Two P7's at 2.8 A area about 11 Watts with driver each or about 22 W and say 600 lumens each out the front, so 1200 lumens. All numbers approximate.

    Four XP-G R5's at 1 A are 3.3 volts, so with driver about 14.5 Watts each quadruplet, and about 1200 lumens. Same amount of light

    So at 1 A, the 4 XP-G's produce as many lumens and are about 2/3 of the power consumption, or for the same runtime, 2/3 as heavy a battery pack.

    Twin triple XP-G R5's run at 0.5 A are also about 1200 lumens. The Vf is only 3.1 V,each so about 10.25 watts, or les than half the power consumption for the same amount of light. PLUS you will have a very bright downhill/emergency power light!

    The problem is optics and the type of beam you want and the size and weight of the housing. A single P7 can fit a nice reflector giving a fairly nice narrow beam with decent throw in an MR11 (32 mm or so ID 35 mm or so OD) housing. You can check out EL34's site for bean=m shots of the P7.

    There is at least one thread in here discussing triple and quad lenses for the XP-G, and the Cute triple and quad, if I remember right, won those, but you will need to decide if that is the beam you want. Of course, you can make a four regina or CXP lens light if you want more of a thrower. It will be larger, but then cooling area will be no issue at all! Lots of beamshots of lights using those. in here. You could go a triple XP-G bar light with more flood and twin reginas on the helmet for throw. The combinations are endless.

    This multiple tradeoff aspect combined with highly personal preferences, makes this a very addictive hobby!

    Hope this helped.

  11. #11
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    I am running a triple P7 on the bars this year and it is freaking awesome so far.

    I only use it on the downhills, not on the climbs
    I use a single P7 on the helmet for climbs

    No driver at all = direct drive from a 3.6 volt 7 x 18650 parallel water bottle pack.
    The light pulls 7+ amps and thus the 7 x 18650 pack was needed for a long run time if needed.

    More info and pics of this light on this page
    https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights49.htm

    Check out the beam shot animation image.
    Let the animation load and then it will play in a loop.
    https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/...7Animation.gif


  12. #12
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    I found out what xp-g is finally. It's a another led made by CREE. Since P7 is availble on DX, I'll go with that for now.

    Does anyone know where I can buy xp-g for real cheap?

  13. #13
    deals with engineers...
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericepark
    I found out what xp-g is finally. It's a another led made by CREE. Since P7 is availble on DX, I'll go with that for now.

    Does anyone know where I can buy xp-g for real cheap?
    isn't this one?
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.44305
    although some prefer the star arrangement i think.

  14. #14
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    edit... beaten by bb!
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  15. #15
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    yes but the crapiest pcb.

    XP-Gs are cheaper than the P7 but not by much.

    Digikey doesn't give a decent price break unless you buy a bundle of them. Last I looked around 9.00 per emitter to get it on a star already.

    Cutter is high on shipping because of being a different continent. Up-charge for star mounted emitters there also.

    There are a few scattered but as usual, the DIYer is left to scramble for the leftovers since there are no good retail options for LEDs, at least the ones most people want.

    I already had the P7s to use in a double and since I don't want to waste that money, I will go ahead with the build. Someday I will do another light for the helmet. Only took me a year to decide to finish this one up...sheeesh I will get of the box now.

    JB
    Last edited by jbflyfshr; 12-01-2010 at 10:00 PM.
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by black_box
    isn't this one?
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.44305
    although some prefer the star arrangement i think.

    I did see this on DX before, but why does it look different from other "star" led's. This one looks so bare.

  17. #17
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    I'd read around some of the other DIY threads first
    Seems like your jumping to step 2 or 3 without understanding step 1.
    www.mtbiker.ca

    My Rides:
    FSR XC -R7 Platinum - SRAM X7 (26.5lbs)
    Cervelo SLC - SRAM Rival - Reynolds DV46T (16.25 lbs)

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbgobie
    I'd read around some of the other DIY threads first
    Seems like your jumping to step 2 or 3 without understanding step 1.
    so what's step one?

  19. #19
    A waste of time it is is
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    Damn EL34 that is so much neater than my attempt. even with a block I made out of american Oak I still couldn't get it to bend that neatly. Nice work

  20. #20
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    It took lots of heat to make it bend around the form.
    In fact, the form caught on fire.

  21. #21
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    My latest build uses 3xP7's i used them as i had them to use and no other reason..
    They are battery killers if ran on full power at 2.8amps..plus the generate a lot of heat!

    But if you can afford a Hipflex there is no reason why you cant run them at a different current level. 1000mA/1400mA/2000mA/2400mA or 2800mA.

    You wont need it on full power most of the time, unless you are doing downhill riding.

    What are the mtbr camera settings? I'll try and take some beam shots of all 5 current levels. Then we can compare these to say 2 tripple XPG's..

    edit, i just noticed that the Hipflex is discontinued..Have to use the H6Flex instead..This would only give 3 levels usefull for the P7
    1400mA/2000mA/2800mA/3000mA/3600mA/5000mA/5600mA/6000mA



    I have a spare Hipflex if your interested..not sure what it will cost to send to sunny cali..
    Think it cost me $35

  22. #22
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    Ithink this is what you are looking for. Thank Troutie.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericepark
    so what's step one?
    Assuming you already have that battery pack....

    Why dont you figure out how long a run time you need? Than at least you know how much power you can be sending out to the lights.
    Once you figured that out, why don't you figure out if you want more throw or a wider light?

    Than figure out how big a light your willing to carry?

    Once you've figured that out, read some more.

    Than read some more....
    www.mtbiker.ca

    My Rides:
    FSR XC -R7 Platinum - SRAM X7 (26.5lbs)
    Cervelo SLC - SRAM Rival - Reynolds DV46T (16.25 lbs)

  24. #24
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    Beam shots are up on my thread now..
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...84#post7575984

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    edit, i just noticed that the Hipflex is discontinued..Have to use the H6Flex instead..This would only give 3 levels usefull for the P7
    1400mA/2000mA/2800mA/3000mA/3600mA/5000mA/5600mA/6000mA
    Those values are the max setting numbers. Each max setting value has a table of lower values within it.

    See the table about 2/3rds of the way down this page...

    http://taskled.com/techh6flex.html

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Those values are the max setting numbers. Each max setting value has a table of lower values within it.

    See the table about 2/3rds of the way down this page...

    http://taskled.com/techh6flex.html
    I never noticed that, that makes this driver pretty universal
    Level -1400mA --2000mA----2800mA----3600mA--5000mA----5600mA----6600mA
    L1-------50mA-------50mA-------50mA-------50mA-------50mA-------50mA-------50mA
    L2-------116mA-----116mA------220mA-----220mA-----250mA------307mA-----505mA
    L3-------311mA-----450mA------730mA-----937mA-----1105mA----1420mA----1620mA
    L4-------680mA-----1020mA----1593mA----2022mA----2450mA---3000mA----3377mA
    L5-------1420mA----2022mA----2800mA----3610mA----5040mA---5640mA---6570mA

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