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  1. #1
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    36-21.5-33

    The next supermodel's measurements???
    emu's avatar measurements???


    No, just the dimensions of my latest light. Dual Reginas on XP_G R5s. Only have the first 2 milling operations done. The big block on the bottom will go away after all the fins are cut and holes are drilled and tapped. It's on there only to make holding it in the vise easier. This will replace my original microlight, using its battery(11.1V 2800mAh), driver(1000mA buckpuck) and switch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 36-21.5-33-new-microlight-4.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-3.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-2.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-1.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Looks good. Nice lines

  3. #3
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    Hah you have done what I have been thinking for a while now,

    very nice

    any tips on how you have milled it????

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    any tips on how you have milled it????
    Been playing a bit with a CNC .

    In reality everything I have done could all be done with a rotary/cross slide combo table on a manual mill. It is easier though with CNC. I write the programs right at the machine using a mix of standard "G and M code" language and a special language "Macro B". Maybe someday I'll get into the CAD/CAM programming and do some more complex shapes.

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    Are you planing to shave off some sides of reflectors, where they stick together? I'm assuming those measures are in mm, so there is no way you could squeeze two intact reginas into such a small cavity, right?

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    Jeez ... with that quality of machining, who needs the reginas! That is VERY nice!

    Reminds me of the front end of the philips light.

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    Nice.

  8. #8
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    How the f did you do that?
    Is that even possible on a manual mill?

    Good job...

  9. #9
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    Looking sweet so far!





    ***

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ortelius
    Are you planing to shave off some sides of reflectors, where they stick together? I'm assuming those measures are in mm, so there is no way you could squeeze two intact reginas into such a small cavity, right?
    Yes, the Reginas are modified. I turned down the "rib" on the end. This puts them at18.5mm diameter. Then I milled off 2mm of the edge to make a flat. They fit together like overlapping circles.

  11. #11
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    ooh, that looks nice - very jealous (looks angrily at dremel and hopes it magically turns into a lathe)

    can't wait to see the rest of the project as it unfolds

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    Have to agree that the finish and angle of the inside of the light looks like it would make a decent reflector as is.
    Amazing what you can do with a CNC.
    Keep bringing the entertainment. Raining here in Texas so no saddle time for me.....

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Have to agree that the finish and angle of the inside of the light looks like it would make a decent reflector as is.
    It probably would not work well. It is tapered from an oval at the top to a round cornered rectangle at the bottom. The finish is nicer than it needs to be. It is all cut with a 4.5mm ballnosed endmill. I have looked into CNC turning some aluminum 10mm reflectors as an experiment. Something that would give some decent throw with the XP-G in the 10mm form factor. Haven't given up on that...but only so much time for projects. I need some help with the geometry of parabolic curves and how to define them in CNC code.

    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Raining here in Texas so no saddle time for me.....
    Yeah, everything is a mudbowl or slopfest in the NW now. Not much riding for me either.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    How the f did you do that?
    Is that even possible on a manual mill?

    Good job...
    As noted in an earlier reply this was done on a 3 axis CNC mill.

    It would be possible to do on a manual mill using a cross slide mounted to a rotary table. Here is a document that describes this technique.

    rick.sparber.org/rtcs.pdf

    This level of the art of manual machining is fading fast.

    Here is a page showing a nice example of this type of rotary table.

    http://www.astratool.com/machines/ph2914.htm

    I am fortunate to have access to CNC machinery. It makes doing complex work far easier than any manual method.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    As noted in an earlier reply this was done on a 3 axis CNC mill.

    It would be possible to do on a manual mill using a cross slide mounted to a rotary table. Here is a document that describes this technique.

    rick.sparber.org/rtcs.pdf

    This level of the art of manual machining is fading fast.

    Here is a page showing a nice example of this type of rotary table.

    http://www.astratool.com/machines/ph2914.htm

    I am fortunate to have access to CNC machinery. It makes doing complex work far easier than any manual method.
    It can also be done with a four jaw chuck on a lathe.

    Vancbiker, it's looking very good but don't go too thin with the Alu.

    I dropped mine in Epping Forest today... time to build another me thinks.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by yetibetty; 12-30-2010 at 04:28 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    It can also be done with a four jaw chuck on a lathe.

    Vancbiker, it's looking very good but don't go too thin with the Alu.

    I dropped mine in Epping Forest today... time to build another me thinks.
    Ouch! That's a shame Yeti. What is your thickness where it broke? I am keeping the area around the Reginas about 1 to 1.5mm thick. It gets down to .5mm thick where the o-ring groove is cut.

  17. #17
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    It's 0.7mm ish. I got a bit carried away with all of those fins. It never got above skin temp so the next one will be smoother and a little thicker.

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    Double post
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 12-31-2010 at 08:44 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Ouch! That's a shame Yeti. What is your thickness where it broke? I am keeping the area around the Reginas about 1 to 1.5mm thick. It gets down to .5mm thick where the o-ring groove is cut.
    That sounds to thin to me..that wouldnt take a knock I don't think..
    I could bend that with my hands.. at a minimum id say 2mm..
    Are you a weight weeny?
    Last edited by Goldigger; 12-30-2010 at 08:14 PM.

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  21. #21
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    I really like the look of your case. I've really wanted to do an XPG double, but just haven't gotten to it yet. Can't wait to see your finished light.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    That sounds to thin to me..that wouldnt take a knock I don't think..
    I could bend that with my hands.. at a minimum id say 2mm..
    Are you a weight weeny?
    I'm not really a weight weeny, but I don't want excess, particularly on the helmet. If everything on the bike was overbuilt for the "just in case" type situation, it would weigh 40 plus pounds. My original microlight has several 1.5 mm sections. It has had one pretty good crash with no damage other than knocking the lexan optics cover loose.

    I don't have any worries about the durability of this new design. Besides, if it does get damaged, it is a good excuse to build another .

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    .. at a minimum id say 2mm..
    Wow, 2 mm minimum? I'm not sure your bike's frame pipes are that thick!

    Really, for helmet monted light, every gram less is worth more than 100 g weight savings on a bike, IMHO.

    I assume your light builds are mainly for the bar mounting, where, at least for me, weight is much much less important. For the helmet mounted lights, they have too much excessive material. For my taste, of course.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    I'm not really a weight weeny, but I don't want excess, particularly on the helmet. If everything on the bike was overbuilt for the "just in case" type situation, it would weigh 40 plus pounds. My original microlight has several 1.5 mm sections. It has had one pretty good crash with no damage other than knocking the lexan optics cover loose.

    I don't have any worries about the durability of this new design. Besides, if it does get damaged, it is a good excuse to build another .
    Mmm an excuse to build another, but then i would be [email protected] if i trashed one of mine..especially with the amout of time i spent doing my tripple P7..
    Even so a crash could pretty much mess up any ali light..ali isn't that hard if it meets concrete steps etc

    ortelius ... I have no idea how thick the walls are on my ali frame Anthem X2, but then i wouldnt want to break that as i probably would

    But i agree helmet lights need to be light weight.. sub 100grams for me.. although i might go heavy and build my neck muscles up

  25. #25
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    My current helmet light is 27 grams with mount. I am hoping this new light will come in about the same.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    My current helmet light is 27 grams with mount. I am hoping this new light will come in about the same.
    I fill my tyres with helium..

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    Another small step

    cable entry/strain relief/seal is now done. The gland nut compresses the o-ring on the cable and against the housing to make a waterproof seal. The split ring is compressed by the gland nut to "grab" the cable jacket to provide the strain relief.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 36-21.5-33-new-microlight-5.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-6.jpg  


  28. #28
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    Housing is complete. Should be plenty of cooling. I think I am going to need a jig for the LEDs to position them while the thermal epoxy hardens.

    Next up, a mount.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 36-21.5-33-new-microlight-8.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-9.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-10.jpg  


  29. #29
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    Nice work Vancbiker, good luck with the soldering.

    I have started building a replacement for mine but it will look huge next to yours.

  30. #30
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    A few more progress pictures. Mount is done. Assembly next. Made a jig to line up and hold the LEDs while the AA hardens.

    Anodized would be nice, but I just can't talk myself into the chemicals and stuff to DIY that. $50 minimum at a local ano shop. Too expensive for a single housing. It will just go bare.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 36-21.5-33-new-microlight-11.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-12.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-13.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-15.jpg  


  31. #31
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    Looking sweet.
    Seeing it on the helmet really gives a good perspective of it's size. Much smaller than I originally thought it was.
    Great work!!!!
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  32. #32
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    Nice work Vancbiker

    I was going to bump this thread up if you hadn't posted as I'm looking for ideas to help me out. You're very lucky not to have to try and fit a bFlex in the back

    Will you be using MCPCB mounted LEDs and if so what size?
    Like the low profile mount.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    You're very lucky not to have to try and fit a bFlex in the back.
    It would be a better light if it had a bFlex in it though. I miss not having the safety that the temp and low battery sensing of the flex drivers provides.


    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    Will you be using MCPCB mounted LEDs and if so what size?
    Like the low profile mount.
    Yes, the XPGs are on 10mm round MCPCB from Cutters.

    Quote Originally Posted by savageman
    Seeing it on the helmet really gives a good perspective of it's size. Much smaller than I originally thought it was
    It looks big to me on the helmet pic. The thing is about twice as big (estimated volume) as my original microlight. It's going to be a much better beam for my preference though.

    In an earlier post it was asked if I was a weight weeny. I guess maybe I am. As it sits in the last pictures, it's 18grams.

  34. #34
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    weight weeny

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    I.

    In an earlier post it was asked if I was a weight weeny. I guess maybe I am. As it sits in the last pictures, it's 18grams.
    A dual XPG housing weighing 18g? That must be some sort of a record

    It is a lovely piece of work Vancbiker. Congratulations. I look forward to seeing it in its final form.

  36. #36
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    Finished it up today. Final weight is 26.4 grams. This new light suits my preference in beam pattern far better than the 10mm Carclo used in my original microlight.

    My camera does not have a manual setting capability so I have to use a "night scenery mode". Regina beamshot EXIF data is...

    4 sec
    f3.3
    iso 100
    - 2 step exposure compensation ( forgot to reset it after taking the indoor closeups.

    The frosty grass brightens this up a bit more than it really looks. The fog on the right of the image is apparently my breath.

    The second beamshot is from the light that this is replacing, my original microlight. (http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=574292)

    EXIF Data..

    8 sec
    f3.3
    iso 100
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 36-21.5-33-new-microlight-16.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-17.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-new-microlight-18.jpg  

    36-21.5-33-p1020123.jpg  


  37. #37
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    Looks awesome!!!!!
    Amazingly lite. Amazing light......= )
    Nice job on the reginas there.
    I've been wondering what would happen if they were modified......and the beam looks great.
    Great job!!!
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Finished it up today. Final weight is 26.4 grams.
    Did you weigh it using kitchen scales? Do you find when cooking things turn out smaller than you expected?

    Seriously, that is a fantastic piece of work, I am really impressed. How hot does it get? I guess you don't have thermal protection with a remote driver

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    Nice job on the reginas there.
    I've been wondering what would happen if they were modified......and the beam looks great.
    Great job!!!
    The parabolic reflectors joined like that give a little more spill on the right and the left, and the throw decrease a little , until the two reflectors don't interfere too much (old little experiment at university)
    This light is a fabulous job !
    I'am very far from that !

  40. #40
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    Terrific job. I wouldn´t dare. My thumbs, all 10 , are just to big hehe

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTGV
    The parabolic reflectors joined like that give a little more spill on the right and the left, and the throw decrease a little , until the two reflectors don't interfere too much (old little experiment at university)
    That is true. It shows slight additional spill to the side when you point the light at the ceiling or wall. Outdoors, you can not tell any difference.

  42. #42
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    Ace I like how you have done the reflectors very neat and tiny .

  43. #43
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    Vancbiker,
    did you have any issues with the reflective material wanting to peel up when you modded them?
    That was a concern of mine when I thought about doing regina mods.
    What did you use to trim them down?
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  44. #44
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    Vancbiker,
    you must have very good eye sight and tiny little fingers to finish this one. I bet you said a few swear words along the way.

    The beam shots just go to show how inefficient those 10mm optics are.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by JezV
    Did you weigh it using kitchen scales?
    Weighed on a lab scale at the job.

    Quote Originally Posted by JezV
    How hot does it get? I guess you don't have thermal protection with a remote driver
    I have not put the probe on it yet. It seems similar to the previous microlight which would get to about 60C when stopped. A bit of moving cools it down nicely. No thermal protection. Unfortunately, that is one of the drawbacks to this design. V3.0 will address that.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    did you have any issues with the reflective material wanting to peel up when you modded them?
    What did you use to trim them down?
    No trouble with the reflective surface peeling. I cut these on a milling machine. Only trouble is holding them. If I do more, I'll make a better fixture.

  47. #47
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    I may have to sacrifice a regina to the dremel tool and see what happens.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    I may have to sacrifice a regina to the dremel tool and see what happens.
    I think a dremel with something like this type of blade would cut the reflector easily.

    http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/...aw-blade/BCQ32

    You'll want to attach the Regina to something before cutting else you'll cut more off your fingers than the reflector .

    I made a little block that had holes in it for the legs of the Regina to sit in and a tapped hole in the center. I used a screw and a washer (one edge cut off previously) to hold the Regina to the block. Clamp the block in the mill vise and cut the Regina edge off using a 1mm wide slitting saw. Locating on the legs kept the saw cut flat aligned with the solder pad pockets in the base of the Regina.

  49. #49
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    Good call on the saw blades you linked too.
    That should make a fast clean cut.
    One concern I had is if the cutting edge was more of a diamond, carbide or other type of cutting wheel, it could heat the plastic too much and start melting right at the cut.
    It would clog the blade with melted plastic and wouldn't be very clean.
    Good call on making a jig for those blades as well.

    Tomorrow I am picking up a milling/drilling vise for my drill press. Will be perfect for these kinds of mods, and milling other types of plastic for remote switches and such.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-...ise-94276.html
    I'll be making the mods mentioned in the reviews on that page.
    It'll be better than nothing.

    You've given me a good idea for a jig for holding the reflector. I'll let you know if it pans out for me.
    Thanx!!
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    One concern I had is if the cutting edge was more of a diamond, carbide or other type of cutting wheel, it could heat the plastic too much and start melting right at the cut.
    It would clog the blade with melted plastic and wouldn't be very clean.
    If you have an air compressor, direct a stream of air at the part while cutting. This helps keep it cool and clears the chips. A lot of times it is plastic chips getting dragged back though the cut that creates extra friction and starts the melting in the cut.

  51. #51
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    Vanc,

    Watching this one, for sure. Wanted to copy you orig light as I mentioned before but I think this is the ticket!

    Q---With all the surface area and fins, do you really need the temp sensing?

    I made my housing too small like yours for the H6Flex to fit and so I am counting on the housing to protect the emitters...next option would have a pocket for the driver. Haven't re-designed it but my have to...good thing I have extra LEDs in case I fry the first set.
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbflyfshr
    Q---With all the surface area and fins, do you really need the temp sensing?

    I made my housing too small like yours for the H6Flex to fit and so I am counting on the housing to protect the emitters...next option would have a pocket for the driver. Haven't re-designed it but my have to...good thing I have extra LEDs in case I fry the first set.
    The thing gets hot on the high setting if not moving. I let it run 30 minutes in the garage to test it. Nothing burned or melted. It was hot enough that you could touch it but not hold it. I have not put a temp probe on it to get an actual number. Don't really plan to as there is nothing to do besides remember to set it on low if I stop for any amount of time. It only takes a small amount of air movement to cool it down nicely. The thin walls seem to lose heat quickly. On low it will run indefinitely and stay cool. It would be nice to have temp sensing but it's not necessary.

    Do you still have an interest in buying the original lighthead?

  53. #53
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    I am...but weather here has gotten in the way of my work for a while now. If I buy anything extra I will hear about it from the mrs. for sure!

    PM me and I will see what I can come up with.

    JB
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  54. #54
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    I put a thermocouple with a dab of thermal paste between the fins just behind the surface the LEDs are mounted to. After 20 minutes in the garage at 11C the light had peaked at 64C. Went for a walk around the back field the temp was down to 35C in a couple minutes. After 10 minutes it was at 15C. I'm sure a riding pace will keep it pretty close to ambient.

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