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  1. #1
    Unshaven Yak
    Reputation: Stinky Wiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004

    Progressive setting & spring rate

    I've been on my 04 Coiler DL for about four months now. 1st I changed the rear shock spring rate from a 650 to a 600 (I hover over 200lbs), but I still find the rear shock to be a bit dead feeling. I'm thinking about going down to a 550, but I wanted to know a few things.

    The replacement spring was a 2.20 instead of the originals length of 2.3 or 2.35 (I dont remember which); does this really effect spring feel?
    I have zero preload on the thing & it just doesn't feel lively enough, the 650 was overkill, xcept for ski resorts. The shop mech told me that the advertised stroke length difference didn't really matter, that they were close enough.

    If I do get another proper length spring at 550, how much difference will it make to switch it over to the progressive position? Can I inhibit bottoming by using that setting? With the current 600, I still have only felt the thing really bottom once.

    I've brought the bike more into balance by getting the xtra firm springs for my zoke (instead of using lotsa air), bit I still don't quite have the happy feel from the back that I crave. I have a 03 Heckler too & it has a 500 lb spring on its ancient 98 Van-R, I have the preload cranked on that one, I'm thinking about bumping it to a 550. Could that be the elusive #? Both bikes have Z-1 FR's leading the way.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joe - Kona's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    I'm not sure what to tell you about the spring length, or what exactly that difference will do. I'd recommend trying to stick with the correct length.
    If the bike is feeling dead, try this before changing the spring any more; Have Fox revalve the shock to get rid of the ProPedal. That system tends to slow the shock down a hair, and that might be what you're complaining of more than the spring weight.
    The progressive setting will make a big difference as well, try it out before spending any money. It may be the change you're looking for, and will go a long way in keeping the shock from bottoming out.

  3. #3
    Just roll it......
    Reputation: ebxtreme's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004

    It sounds like it might have too heavy of a spring.

    Stinky Wiz,

    Sounds like you know enough here, but with everything below, I'm going to assume that you have the compression knob open (full fast). If not, start there.

    Question for you? How does your sag measure with the 600# spring when you sit on the bike? Are you gettting the recommended sag? If not, then I'd definitely say go with a lighter shock.

    I think they say that the eye-to-eye length should be about 7.4" with the proper sag (about .5" less than the shock eye to eye uncompressed ). You can have a bit more sag for a squishier ride or less for a firmer ride. FYI, this is not something I attempt to measure by myself....have someone measure this while you're sitting on the bike.

    You say that you have the shock attached to the front mounting hole with zero preload and yet you rarely bottom it out. This also leads me to believe that the shock has too heavy of a spring on it. Most suspension companies say that a bike is sprung right if you bottom it once or twice a ride (this means you're using most or all of the travel). I think you could go down to the 550# spring and see how the bike feels. If you're bottoming it more than once or twice a ride, then drop it to the more progressive mounting holes. If not, then just leave it on the front mounting (linear) holes.

    About the spring length. The stroke on that shock is 2 inches so a 2.2 will work just fine. I don't know why the shock mfgrs have different lengths that work on the same shock....but it'll work for you. Your shop guy knows what he's talking about. The spring length will effect a couple of things like the amount of potential pre-load you can put on the spring before it binds during compression, etc. In general, you shouldn't pre-load a shock with more than 3 full turns of the shock collar to achieve proper sag. If you have to do that, then it's time for a firmer spring......but it doesn't seem like an issue that you'll have if you move down to the 550#.

    Good luck....let us know if that helps it.

    P.S. I'd do the lighter spring option before I'd take Joe's advice and get your shock re-valved. $25 for a new spring is much cheaper than a total shock overhaul and why would you want to remove the ProPedal? Doesn't make sense to me. If you were to do that, I'd say just send it in to Push Industries and have Darren revalve it.

  4. #4
    Unshaven Yak
    Reputation: Stinky Wiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Thanks guys.

    I'm pretty sure I'm gonna step down to the 550, I had never run a spring with just enough preload to hold the spring in place!

    EB, I do have the compression damping full open on the descents, I add 3-4 clicks on the ascent. I run fast rebound settings for trail riding & only have 2 maybe 3 clicks of rebound descending on most trails (keeping things lively). I haven't measured actual sag, but I suspect it's just shy of the numbers you put up, that is will zero preload. I appreciate the re-assurance on the length issue, I thought it was cool, but I wanted to rule that out as a potential cause of the deadite issue.

    I was actually surprised to come to the conclusion that I would need the same spring rate in both frames, arriving at that point from both ends of the spectrum. I guess with my weight & riding style being at issue, it makes sense...but I would have thought the way each bike actuates its shock (stroke, leverage, rate) would have some effect. Not as much as I thought.

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