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  1. #1
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    Process 111/111 DL Thread

    News, pics, reviews of the new 2014 Process 111/111 DL here!

    I'm seriously considering one, but would love to hear how others are finding the ride. Climbing performance against the descending prowess - can it really do both well?

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    Test rode one for a maybe 10 kms Climbs ok... But holy sheet when you point it down... Super playful going down and eats up bumps well beyond its relatively small 111mm of travel. Long top tube and short stem makes it somewhat awkward for standing climbing. Seated it climbs pretty well. I just received my dl and I will ride it a few times then be switching to a 32 or even a 30 ring so I can climb steep stuff. The base model with 1 x 10 wouldnt work as well for me but if you have fire road or staright forward climbing it should be good.
    When I get some more time on my new ride I will report back.
    Last edited by yahsper; 09-25-2013 at 05:27 PM.

  3. #3
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    My PROCESS 111 DL size L :
    12,48kgrs without pedals.

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    How did you get a pink one? Super cool.

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    I had the frame repainted

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    Where did you get the decal kit?

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    Mt seat post failed last night. Need to re-cut the housing and get a new cable. Bike is amazing though. Getting used to climbing it. Just got a 32 tooth ring for the front which should make things a bit easier. I may end up with a 30 at some point.
    Handle bar is a bit wide for me so thats getting a slight chop. The bike is crazy fast going down...just sucks up everything. It really does feel like more than 111mm. Really loving it.

  8. #8
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    Anything more you can tell is about the climbing ability? Seated and standing?

    I'm more of a climber but have been improving my descending and general technical riding ability, so I'm wondering how much of my ability to climb will be muted by the suspension action of this bike.

    Currently riding a DB Mason HT with a 150mm Pike and I have really come to enjoy the slack headtube angle, descending and ascending. However I know an FS bike like this could be even more fun...

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    Quote Originally Posted by fleanutz View Post
    Anything more you can tell is about the climbing ability? Seated and standing?

    I'm more of a climber but have been improving my descending and general technical riding ability, so I'm wondering how much of my ability to climb will be muted by the suspension action of this bike.

    Currently riding a DB Mason HT with a 150mm Pike and I have really come to enjoy the slack headtube angle, descending and ascending. However I know an FS bike like this could be even more fun...
    If you already are climbing on your current set up you will have no problem with the process. Seated climbing is fine and I don't touch the shock but when I stand I flick the switch.
    I did some steeper climbs where I had to stand and I'm getting more used to the geometry. Still need to cut my bars which will help me a bit .
    Just switched to a 32 tooth ring so a few steeper climbs should be easier.
    I'm taking it on a big xc ride this morning to see what its like on my ol hardtail trails.

  10. #10
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    I can compare my PROCESS 111DL with my SATORI and with my HONZO:
    The PROCESS is the happy medium between the SATORI and the HONZO during the rises.
    It is close to the SATORI in adhesion and in motricity.
    It is close to the HONZO in dynamism and in explodability.
    In the very stiff rises, it is more effective than the SATORI because the suspension of subsides less and thus the bike gets rid of the ballast from less front.
    In the breakable rises with many of the small rocks, it is less effective than the SATORI because the suspension is firmer and generates a little less adhesion.
    In brief, the PROCESS behaves in the rises as a good bike of XC.

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    I know its not all about the numbers game but for comparisons does anyone have the frame weight and BB height for one of these (large preferably )

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    I ride my friend's Satori last weekend on some of the more challenging trails around here. It performed great, up and down. I also just built up a Honzo and will take it out tomorrow for it's first trail ride. The process line really intrigues me but I am leaning towards the 154.

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    Quote Originally Posted by boude View Post
    I can compare my PROCESS 111DL with my SATORI and with my HONZO:
    The PROCESS is the happy medium between the SATORI and the HONZO during the rises.
    It is close to the SATORI in adhesion and in motricity.
    It is close to the HONZO in dynamism and in explodability.
    In the very stiff rises, it is more effective than the SATORI because the suspension of subsides less and thus the bike gets rid of the ballast from less front.
    In the breakable rises with many of the small rocks, it is less effective than the SATORI because the suspension is firmer and generates a little less adhesion.
    In brief, the PROCESS behaves in the rises as a good bike of XC.
    What's "motricity?"
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by fleanutz View Post
    Anything more you can tell is about the climbing ability? Seated and standing?

    I'm more of a climber but have been improving my descending and general technical riding ability, so I'm wondering how much of my ability to climb will be muted by the suspension action of this bike.

    Currently riding a DB Mason HT with a 150mm Pike and I have really come to enjoy the slack headtube angle, descending and ascending. However I know an FS bike like this could be even more fun...

    Climbing on the 111 DL seated or standing is on par with other bikes in this category. Very little rear end movement out of the saddle. The long front center works and it doesn't feel odd at all with the short stem. I've climbed the Mc Gill trail in So Cal twice, up to Mt Lukens via Haines canyon once and several climbs in the Verdugo's. I consider myself a strong climber but I switched the ring to a 30t. I sold one to a customer on his XL 111 Dl and we outfitted his with a 28t. Kick ass descender. I switched to a joystick Digger bar with a 25mm rise. I am having trouble using all the rear travel. I have it set up at 30% sag, and ride hard but can't get that last 10mmout of it, even when jumping. I'll play some more with the air. great bike. I love it! mine is 29.5 pounds with XT pedals.

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    I've ridden the carbon hei hei and it's almost too good. amazing xc machine that doesn't svck in the techy. does the 111 dl climb almost as well, but absolutely crush the hei hei in tech and descending? is the hei hei so much better on the up and can it hang reasonably well in the other stuff compared to the 111?

    rog

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    i believe this is the new bike that is getting lost in the 650b hype and i've spoken to more than 1 rider that have demoed it - and bought it because it rocked. these same riders also demoed the 650b bikes. I currently own a Satori and have demoed the 153 in moab a couple weeks back. i've LOVED my satori - and it does everything amazingly well - with a bias toward dh for sure - but yet still really climbs well and is quite nimble with its great geo. The 153 was like jumping on my satori - but even easier to ride up, over and down everything - i little less tanky than the satori - maybe some of that smaller wheel size was felt in picking a line and dancing thru stuff versus point and shoot over stuff. i'm keen to see and ride one of these none the less. Keep the reviews and impressions coming - thanks Kona for the awesome bikes they've engineered over the past couple years!

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    I took the Process 111 out for a demo today. First of all, it is HEAVY...could stand a diet in the wheel and tire department. Second...heavy wheels and all it fVcking RIPS! i didnt set any strava records with it, but ,man that thing handles like its on rails. I think if I had one more day to ride it and dial it in I would be killing it on the descent and probably equally fast on the climbs as my XC bike. I am buying one FO' SHO' !!!

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    great review...must try one....thanks eurospek

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    Sound like a fully suspended Honzo!

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    I demoed the DL version (in XL) yesterday, on an hour ride in South Orange County.

    Unfortunately the dropper was broken, the bike shop is having a tremendously bad time with adjusting the demo droppers for various rider heights. I saw this same problem highlighted in the Pinkbike review. For a single rider this probably won't be an issue, set it once and forget it. Because it was broken, the shop set it at an 'average' height for me.

    Coming from my '10 Stumpy FSR 29er, the climbing proved to be really rough. It was a combination of the 1x11 gearing (.8 vs .6 ratio), the slacker head angle, and lower seat; but I wore myself out on some steep climbs that I'd normally spin up. With a proper seat height and a 32 tooth, I think it would be fine.

    Which is good, because on the flats and downhill, this thing just lit up! It made my Stumpy feel like a tank. I was popping over everything, super stable at speed. It tracked excellent through the little bit of tight single track this ride provided, although a very tight switch back was barely cleared. A loose and steep section was a breeze, I felt super confident and comfortable for a first ride.

    Unfortunately I think the DL is over my budget, so I'd like to get out on the non-DL version. I would definitely have to do something about the gearing, probably a 30 tooth just to match low end with the 1x11. I'd also like to see if it's still as stiff and lively with the heavier weight of the non-DL version (wheels especially).

    I'm 6'6" 200lbs btw, geometry felt great when I was up off the seat, will have to get a demo with a working dropper to really see how she climbs.

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    no worries, nice feedback, thanks.

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    So, I picked up the large size on Friday after taking the XL out on a demo last weekend. For the record I am 6'3" with a 35" inseam. The large has the same effective top tube as the large Honzo I used to own, which was the best feeling bike I had owned to date. I immediately took it to the garage and swapped the wheels for some custom wheels I had built with Arch-EX rims, Hope front hub and White industries rear hub with Schwalbe tires. Saved a bunch of rolling weight over the stock wheels and tires. Not sure how much, but a significant change. Also changed the 34 tooth chainring for a 32 tooth and removed the stupid chainguide. lastly, I swapped the 40mm stem for a 50mm. The stock KS internal post has major issues, so the shop loaned me a Crank bros. dropper until a Reverb stealth comes in. I rode about 20 miles on Saturday just trying to dial it in with shock pressure and settings. Felt very good, but not "just right". After some tinkering Saturday night I took it back out on Sunday and just fell in love with it. It is an amazingly capable bike for a "short travel" 29er. The 111mm feels like much more when needed, but not "too much" when climbing. I have grown to hate the feeling of a long travel bike, but I still love to hang it out on the descent. This thing fits the bill perfectly. with the changes I made, it feels close to an XC bike on the climbs and flats and rips the descent almost like an all-mountain bike. is it the best climber? Not really. but it is no slouch either. Is it as capable as a six inch all-mountain bike on the descent??? Probably not, But it splits the difference so well I could not ask for more. I had so much fun on this thing over the weekend, I am seriously considering calling in sick on wednesday to ride some more before the snow comes. If you like to ride up AND down the mountain, this is a GREAT bike. It is just plain fun to ride. As a frame of reference I consider myself an XC rider that loves to go downhill as fast as possible. I live and ride in beautiful Bend, Oregon and I have been riding a 2012 Kona Hei Hei with a 120mm fork for the past two years.

    P.S. the Process is so good, I am selling the Hei Hei.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Process 111/111 DL Thread-imag0127.jpg  


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    ^^^^^^selling hei hei for the 111 and are an xc rider. thank you for yer input. I was thinking the same thing

    rog

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    Anyone else notice in the kona site pics on the top tube where it says "process 111" it also has an "a" ....does this mean there will be a "c" at some point?


    Really looking hard at this bike as a full suspension complement to my N9...

  26. #26
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    I can't wait to get mine!
    Already have a couple key upgrades which are gonna make it a killer bike!

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    Pretty much nailed that... the ONLY reason i'm in waiting is for the Process "C" lineup

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    "c" incoming. alu rear end still maybe

    rog

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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    Anyone else notice in the kona site pics on the top tube where it says "process 111" it also has an "a" ....does this mean there will be a "c" at some point?


    Really looking hard at this bike as a full suspension complement to my N9...
    I've had the 111 as a demo for the last 3 days and can confirm it is a FS version of my N9. You will not be disappointed. Don't be turned away by "only 111mm" of travel. It feels bottomless in fact like someone noted above, I haven't been able to use all the travel. Very impressed and so much so I see a new bike being added to my quiver.
    When I die I'm afraid my wife will sell all of my bikes, parts and gear for what I told her I paid for them.

  30. #30
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    Process 111 DL Nominated for Pinkbike’s Best MTB of the Year

    THE KONA COG | Process 111 DL Nominated for Pinkbike?s Best MTB of the Year | Kona COG

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    The price jump to DL and the 1x11 is pretty significant (and puts the bike firmly out of range for me).

    The straight 111 1x10 gearing, however, doesn't fit my style or location (So Cal) well either.

    Saw this new 42-tooth sprocket hit the market today, however, which is compatible with the 1x10 x9 on the 111. Check it out:

    OneUP Components 42-tooth sprocket – first look - BikeRadar

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    might be the game changer I've been looking for as well - for the non-DL 111 (or 134/DL) - once a demo ride-off occurs - leaves lots of budget for lighter stiffer wheel upgrade

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    Spent the last couple afternoons touring around North Van on a demo 111. This was my first significant amount of time on any 29, so keep that in mind.

    Background - The last couple years have seen me riding a Banshee Spitfire then Chilcotin for everything (Shuttles, epics, Bike Park). DH rig was collecting dust till I sold it. I like beefy, grippy tires and coil forks. I am not the fasted guy, or huck the most, but I am pretty clean and like a lot of feedback from my bikes (I can slay Goats Gully on a hardtail, but even on a DH bike, I'm the one holding everyone up on A Line).

    My initial concerns with the 111 was the tiny fork and 'pinner' tires. On a frosty North Shore afternoon, low pressure, grabby meats are what you want to roll on.

    The Trails - Typical was 45 min climbs on smooth trails, with a few punchy tech bits sprinkled in. Descents were what you would expect, steep gnarly, rooty and eroded with some fast and flowy frozen gold in between.

    The Ride - while climbing, I couldn't help but think what it would be like to ride the same set-up, but only in 26. On the tech stuff, it required more energy to speed up to get over things, but once I had the momentum, it rolled over the obstacle a lot easier than a 26 (this will be a common theme). It climbed find, but I am a guy who would rather suffer on the climb, in order to have more fun on the descent.

    I already had the feeling that the bike did not handle well at low speeds, so I was a little concerned as the first 2 corners are steep, loose and tight. It also occurred to me, as I entered the 1st turn, that the creek I splashed thru earlier coated the brakes in ice. With a fresh load in my shorts, I strong armed the first corner, and shot out awkwardly into the second where muscle memory took over. With a prayer I let the bike go, and gave it a heavy lean in the corner. That's when I learned slow is bad, fast is good.

    Although I was holding back a bit, because I did not want to owe Kona a new set of wheels, when you get this bike up to the right speed (or amount of momentum) it is super fun. To use the cliche 'It descends like a DH' is not accurate. At speed, it is stable like a big bike, but the feeling is very different. You can really feel the trail, without getting having the crap beat out of you. The lightness of the bike is so noticeable without being twitchy. it was effortless. Hard to explain, not better, not worse, just different.

    My original concerns of the 'little' fork and pinner tires were not an issue, which was an absolute shock, as I usually throw a hissy if my own set up is out be a psi or two.

    One thing that really surprised me was how much work it was to pump and work the terrain if you were moving just below the 'fun speed threshold', and how downright annoying it was when going slow on techy stuff.

    Overall, I am not sure a 29 is for me (at least not in a 1 bike quiver), but if you live in an area with flowy trails, or are comfortable going fast on the techy stuff this bike is great. If you are a novice with mostly technical trails, you may find the 111 challenging, if not down right sketchy.

  34. #34
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    Anybody know the weight of the frame/shock yet? Anybody tried a 130+ fork yet?

  35. #35
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    I am seriously considering putting a 140mm fork on it (34 or Pike), the frame should more than be able to take it. Would just give it a bit more comfort with the beefier fork as an all-around killer bike. Head angle will be a wee bit slacker and the bb will be a tad higher, but nothing major to worry about

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    New Pikes are waaay better than 34s and Im a long term Fox user

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    After dumping an obscene amount of money into my 111, I have it down to 28.5 lbs. and I don't see it getting any lighter short of carbon wheels. This is a large frame with dropper post, big tires and durable parts, so I am happy with the weight, but I will be the first one in line for the carbon frame when it comes out. Would LOVE to get a bike this capable and fun down to 26-27 lbs.

  38. #38
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    spec list please wasfast!

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    Here ya go:

    Large frame
    Stock Rockshox Revelation Fork
    Stock Raceface Crank w/ aftermarket Raceface narrow-wide 30 tooth ring
    XT trail pedal.
    Stans Arch EX wheelset with 3.30 hubs
    Schwalbe 2.35 nobby nic front, 2.25 racing ralph rear. both tubeless
    Sram XO1 cassette
    Sram XO1 derailleur
    Sram XO1 shifter
    Rockshox Reverb Stealth post
    WTB Volt team saddle
    Renthal Duo split stem
    Chromag Cutlass carbon bars, uncut.
    Oury lock-ons
    SLX brakes with Icetech pads and rotors, 180/160

    ready to roll at 28.65 lbs with dirt.

  40. #40
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    Process 111/111 DL Thread-p4pb10484467.jpg
    got mine, pretty much stock size xl other than the wheels (arch ex on dt 350s). Bars and stem (race face sixc 35 800 and 35mm sixc stem) coming soon...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kona_Stuff View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    got mine, pretty much stock size xl other than the wheels (arch ex on dt 350s). Bars and stem (race face sixc 35 800 and 35mm sixc stem) coming soon...
    How tall are you? I'm 6-4 and concerned the shorter seat tube will rule this bike out for me...

  42. #42
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    I'm 6' 2" and chose the bigger size because the top tube feels a bit more comfy. It is a pretty big bike though, it's noticeably longer in the wheelbase than pretty much everything else I've had before (even my large operator...). My seat post is pretty much slammed in the frame so there's still lotta room to play for someone taller.
    I won't get to ride that bike for the next 2.5 months due to snow but be sure that as soon as it starts to melt, I'll be out there shredding the living hell out of it

  43. #43
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    So I may have a line on a frameset. I wanted to go complete but I'll take what I can get and this gives me a blank canvas. Was thinking about a lowered Pike but I haven't really seen anyone do this yet. Anyone know what exactly is involved?

    Anyone running 130mm?

    X-Fusion might be the more responsible choice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    So I may have a line on a frameset. I wanted to go complete but I'll take what I can get and this gives me a blank canvas. Was thinking about a lowered Pike but I haven't really seen anyone do this yet. Anyone know what exactly is involved?

    Anyone running 130mm?

    X-Fusion might be the more responsible choice.
    What size are you looking for? There's a guy selling a large complete 111DL on Pinkbike. I considered getting it but I'm the opposite, I'm in need of a frame.

    As far as the fork, I think I'm going to do the same thing. I haven't seen a 130mm yet Pike but I know you can lower the any of the 29" Pikes down to 120mm by swapping out the air shaft. Here is a step by step, it's for a 27.5 Pike but the procedure is the same.

    Regularbob's bike blog: Reducing the Rockshox Pike RCT3 Solo Air travel

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by matmattmatthew View Post
    What size are you looking for? There's a guy selling a large complete 111DL on Pinkbike. I considered getting it but I'm the opposite, I'm in need of a frame.

    As far as the fork, I think I'm going to do the same thing. I haven't seen a 130mm yet Pike but I know you can lower the any of the 29" Pikes down to 120mm by swapping out the air shaft. Here is a step by step, it's for a 27.5 Pike but the procedure is the same.

    Regularbob's bike blog: Reducing the Rockshox Pike RCT3 Solo Air travel
    Good info there. Sizing is something I'm struggling with a bit. I am 5'11" with a longer torso which in the MTB world seems to be no mans land. I currently ride a canfield yelli screamy in size large. It has...
    622mm ETT
    456mm ST
    I run a 55mm stem and I like the fit a lot. Wouldn't want things any bigger though.
    I'm right in between sizes M and L for the Kona. What sizing does everyone have? Suggestions?

  46. #46
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    i would recommend you ignore the ETT and look at the reach. the ETT is affected by the STA and offset which is probably pretty different for those two frames.

    now the reach of a large yelli screamy is 432

    a medium process is 435

    a large process is 460

    at 5'11" i would say you are solidly in large territory. if you get the medium (which still has a longer reach than your short yelli) you will be getting a bike that is too small and undoing everything kona is trying to do with their "new" fit.

  47. #47
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    Damn, really wish I was able to get on both of them to see which one feels right. I'm not even sure which size my lbs "has a line on". I feel pretty stretched out on the Yelli and I think the "fit" on that bike would be similar. I have an easton haven stem on it marked at 55mm along with 780bars. I'd prefer the large but if I get a chance at a medium than I may have to take it. If it ends up fitting just like the yelli screamy, I'd be pretty happy. I'm very confident on that bike.

  48. #48
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    remember that the process bikes come with 40mm stems too.

    if you have a medium process with a 435 reach and a 55 stem that is 485 total.

    if you have a large process with 460 reach and a 35 stem that is 485 total.

    and for reference the yelli is 432 + 55 is 487.

    so...either of these sizes with stem are close to your yelli setup right now. do you want to ride a bike with a long stem that gets you to the same place as the larger size up with a short stem? that is what you are ultimately deciding.

  49. #49
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    Would probably still rather have a large but it sounds like a medium will work ok too. Good to know I have an option.

    I could run a 50mm stem on the medium and have the same reach as the Yelli. Not too bad.

  50. #50
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    For what it's worth, I've spent several days on both a medium and large. I'm 5'10" with an average reach and I ride a medium Nimble 9 with a 55mm stem so similar set up to your Yelli only med vs lg. My few few days was on the med Process and it felt perfect. Funny thing is, several weeks later I spent a few days on a large and enjoyed it as well. That being said, I plan to go with the med but based on your size and current set up I agree with dogbox- don't undue what Kona has done with the Process by getting too small of a bike. I'm confident you'll feel most at home on a large.
    When I die I'm afraid my wife will sell all of my bikes, parts and gear for what I told her I paid for them.

  51. #51
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    Well the shop came through and found a frame. Bad news is it's a medium. This might be my only opportunity to nab one of these things before next year. I hope the medium will work out for me. Reach is slightly longer than on the elli so I think I'll feel alright with a 50mm stem.

    Now I have to work out the fork. I'm thinking lowered Pike but still considering the X-Fusion and the revelation. Not sure if I'll do a little extra travel in the front.

    Wonder if there is a way I can change the color without voiding the warranty? I am really not a fan of the red.

  52. #52
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    rusty.. a local shop here in santa barbara has a L 111 in stock..(at least it did just a few days ago).. I dont think i can post shop names here in the forum---so message me and ill send you their number..

    ps..im not affiliated with the shop in anyway--so no spam here..just saw the bike on the rack and trying to help..

  53. #53
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    Well I went with the medium my shop could get. They gave me a pretty good discount and they promised if I did not like the fit they would take it back. We shall see how it goes!

    Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

  54. #54
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    Starting up my build and I have one more question. Should I get the 380mm reverb or the 420? I'm riding a medium and have a 32" inseam.

    Kona doesn't list the travel of the KS post but I assume it's 125mm. I had a 125mm post on my Norco sight and it was more than enough drop. Just wondering if 125 will be enough with the Kona.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Starting up my build and I have one more question. Should I get the 380mm reverb or the 420? I'm riding a medium and have a 32" inseam.

    Kona doesn't list the travel of the KS post but I assume it's 125mm. I had a 125mm post on my Norco sight and it was more than enough drop. Just wondering if 125 will be enough with the Kona.
    I'm not sure about the total length of the post but the 111DL complete comes with the 150mm drop LEV.

    I have a Large on the way and to be safe I'm going to get the longest post available with the most drop available. I'm still not sure if I'm going with the Reverb of LEV yet...

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogbox View Post
    remember that the process bikes come with 40mm stems too.

    if you have a medium process with a 435 reach and a 55 stem that is 485 total.

    if you have a large process with 460 reach and a 35 stem that is 485 total.

    and for reference the yelli is 432 + 55 is 487.

    so...either of these sizes with stem are close to your yelli setup right now. do you want to ride a bike with a long stem that gets you to the same place as the larger size up with a short stem? that is what you are ultimately deciding.
    Actually, if you have a large process with 460 reach and a 35 stem that is 495 total, not 485.

    Wanted to clear that up b/c we are being so technical on sizing. Im in the same boat as everyone trying to figure which size to get.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by NHMB View Post
    Actually, if you have a large process with 460 reach and a 35 stem that is 495 total, not 485.

    Wanted to clear that up b/c we are being so technical on sizing. Im in the same boat as everyone trying to figure which size to get.
    oops, i messed up some other math in there, must of been in a hurry when i posted that.

    medium 435 reach plus 55 stem is 490

    large 460 reach plus 35 stem is 495

    if you put a 60mm stem on a medium process you are at 495 which means you could have the same reach as a large with a 35.

    ok, that is what i originally meant to say, just need to make sure i can add first

  58. #58
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    this a xpost from 29 parts forum...

    HI,
    I have a process 111 frame on order.

    i'm now trying to find a good fork for it.
    I would love a pike but my budget is getting a bit tight so I have to rule it out.

    I have a good deal on a xfusion trace direct from the distributer around here. reviews so far are excellent, people seem to say that it compares to the pike. being a less known company for me I less incline to go that route but i'm tempted.

    I can also get a great deal on a rock shox revelation. but would need to put extra $$ to lower it to 120mm wich would bring me closer to the trace price.

    both fork gets good reviews,
    i'm 200lbs , ride fairly aggressive and love technical trails.

    i'm wondering if someone has experience with both fork and could help me choose ?
    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  59. #59
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    I'm 6'1 & 1/2" currently on a large honzo with 70mm stem. That said, I think the short seat post length on the process is going to push me into an XL. If anyone knows where I can find an XL frame please shoot me a PM.

  60. #60
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    My frame showed up today and it looks pretty darn good! I'm still not a fan of the color but it's definitely better than the pictures show. Paint quality is good but not great, there's some noticeable fade and some unfinished spots around the pivot bearings. I'm going to see if the color grows on me and if it doesn't, I might soda blast the front end and leave it raw.

    For those of you that are interested my size M frame weighed 7.62lbs with Maxle and the seatclamp.

    A few things I noticed...

    -Looks like the internal routing is only for cable actuated posts. Did those of you that run a reverb drill it out? I'm kind of afraid to do this on a brand new frame but I already have the reverb.

    -There are some bolt on cable guides on the non drive side top tube. Assuming these are for a non-stealth dropper post? Can't think of any other use for them.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    My frame showed up today and it looks pretty darn good! I'm still not a fan of the color but it's definitely better than the pictures show. Paint quality is good but not great, there's some noticeable fade and some unfinished spots around the pivot bearings. I'm going to see if the color grows on me and if it doesn't, I might soda blast the front end and leave it raw.
    That's funny about the missing painted spots, my Honzo is missing paint on the left chainstay yoke/BB area. And I say raw ftw!!




  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    My frame showed up today and it looks pretty darn good! I'm still not a fan of the color but it's definitely better than the pictures show. Paint quality is good but not great, there's some noticeable fade and some unfinished spots around the pivot bearings. I'm going to see if the color grows on me and if it doesn't, I might soda blast the front end and leave it raw.

    For those of you that are interested my size M frame weighed 7.62lbs with Maxle and the seatclamp.

    A few things I noticed...

    -Looks like the internal routing is only for cable actuated posts. Did those of you that run a reverb drill it out? I'm kind of afraid to do this on a brand new frame but I already have the reverb.

    -There are some bolt on cable guides on the non drive side top tube. Assuming these are for a non-stealth dropper post? Can't think of any other use for them.
    Yes the Process has routing for stealth and non-stealth posts.

    Regarding the hole for the Reverb, I really hope it I don't have to drill it out. I just bought a Reverb Stealth for my frame because I heard about a few bad experiences with the LEV integra. I think the Pinkbike reviewers had so many issues with the LEV that they swapped it out on their test bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    That's funny about the missing painted spots, my Honzo is missing paint on the left chainstay yoke/BB area. And I say raw ftw!!



    I've been contemplating either stripping or powdercoating my frame when it arrives, does anyone know if this voids the warranty? I know specialized usually had a provision in their warranty about "non-factory paint."

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by matmattmatthew View Post
    Yes the Process has routing for stealth and non-stealth posts.

    Regarding the hole for the Reverb, I really hope it I don't have to drill it out. I just bought a Reverb Stealth for my frame because I heard about a few bad experiences with the LEV integra. I think the Pinkbike reviewers had so many issues with the LEV that they swapped it out on their test bike.


    I've been contemplating either stripping or powdercoating my frame when it arrives, does anyone know if this voids the warranty? I know specialized usually had a provision in their warranty about "non-factory paint."
    Yeah I was wondering the same thing. I may contact Kona but I think I know what their answer will be. I'm sure they will take any way to relieve themselves of liability that they can. Not a fan of the color or the quality of the factory paint and that raw looks pretty sexy. May leave the rear end on mine black but I'm not sure.

    I got the reverb stealth for the same reasons you did. It looks like drilling may be the only option. I have seen at least one on this thread with a reverb so I wanted to see how they did it.

  64. #64
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    Take the hose off the remote side, not the post side. It will fit through the hole no problem.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    Take the hose off the remote side, not the post side. It will fit through the hole no problem.
    Unless I'm missing something there's no way anything other than a cable will fit through that hole. Don't know if this picture shows it well but it's the best I could do. The didn't change the frames mid model year did they?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Process 111/111 DL Thread-photo.jpg  


  66. #66
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    I hope you guys know that the hole there is for the derailleur cable and not the dropper… The dropper goes on the top of the down tube with the brake cable, hence why there's two cable slots on those little guides on the top tube

    The hole you're pointing at is for the derailleur cable to flow through, kona was even intelligent to put a guide inside the frame so you don't have to fish your cable out ...

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Unless I'm missing something there's no way anything other than a cable will fit through that hole. Don't know if this picture shows it well but it's the best I could do. The didn't change the frames mid model year did they?
    You have the wrong hole. Look on the front of the seat tube. The new frames have the hole moved higher than the first batch. I will take a picture of mine tomorrow. I am sure the Lev or Reverb with internal routing will work.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kona_Stuff View Post
    I hope you guys know that the hole there is for the derailleur cable and not the dropper… The dropper goes on the top of the down tube with the brake cable, hence why there's two cable slots on those little guides on the top tube

    The hole you're pointing at is for the derailleur cable to flow through, kona was even intelligent to put a guide inside the frame so you don't have to fish your cable out ...
    Ah yes. That makes sense, haha I'm an idiot.

  69. #69
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    So I'm all done with my build for now and I'm pretty pleased overall. I've never gone anywhere near this high end on a build but I worked very hard over the last few months scrounging for great component deals. Ended up with a bunch of Take-off parts and significantly better value than the factory DL build. I'll provide some details and impressions in a bit. In the meantime, here's a pic!
    Process 111/111 DL Thread-photo-12-.jpg

  70. #70
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    Looks great! I'm about to start that process..got a frame sitting on the couch, but few parts. What dropper post did are you using? I'll be looking forward to impressions and your build list.

  71. #71
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    Any 6'1" process owners here? If so what size are you riding. Trying to decide what size works best before making a purchase.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    Any 6'1" process owners here? If so what size are you riding. Trying to decide what size works best before making a purchase.
    I def going to say large. Im 5'10 with a 32 inseam. Im even leaning towards a large with a 35mm stem. I just tried the med and although the fit was ok. I felt a little cramped. My knees felt too high up. Hope this helps.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    So I'm all done with my build for now and I'm pretty pleased overall. I've never gone anywhere near this high end on a build but I worked very hard over the last few months scrounging for great component deals. Ended up with a bunch of Take-off parts and significantly better value than the factory DL build. I'll provide some details and impressions in a bit. In the meantime, here's a pic!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Very nice.
    What fork is that, a 120-mm Rev?
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  74. #74
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    That's definitely a Pike.

  75. #75
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    Ok, so I did a long ride over the weekend and I've got some thoughts and my current build list. I'll start with the build.

    -Fork: Pike Currently set at 140mm
    -Drivetrain: X01 W/32T wolftooth direct mount
    -Wheels: Light Bicycle AM Carbon with hope hubs, Nobby Nic SS 2.35 F, Rocket Ron SS 2.25R
    -Brakes: X0 Trail W/Hope Rotors
    -Cockpit: Reverb Stealth post, Silverado saddle, 55mm Haven Stem, CB Opium DH bars, RF Half Nelson Grips

    It ended up weighing in at almost exactly 27lbs w/out pedals. I'm going to swap out the tires for a Specialized Butcher up front and a Purgatory in the rear. I think more aggressive tires will suit the bike better. I'm also going to swap out the bars for something in carbon and with less back sweep. Also I may add an MRP AMG or blackspire bruiser to protect my chainring.

    And for the ride impressions. I'm coming off a Canfield Yelli Screamy in size large and a Norco Sight Killer B in M which I sold to get this. If I had to sum up, this bike is pretty much a Yelli Screamy with some squish out back. For those of you that haven't ridden a Canfield I'll provide a bit more detail.

    Fit/Geo: I'm definitely on the upper edge of the medium size at 5'10 3/4" and regretfully I have to run a 55mm stem to make the cockpit work for me. I think I'd be a little happier on a large but I'm pretty comfortable anyway. I get they were going for an ultra low frame but the seattube is unnecessarily short. I don't have the longest legs but the reverb looks a bit goofy at full height. Doesn't seem to affect performance, just a bit strange. The long TT gives me enough room but once again a large would be better. I'm a big believer in the benefits of short chainstays and my beliefs were confirmed yet again on this bike. The short rear end lets me know what the back wheel is doing all the time, makes jumps a lot more comfortable, adds grip on the climbs, and just gives a general feeling of nimbleness without compromising stability.

    Suspension
    The suspension has a nice solid ramp up without being harsh. It's difficult to get full travel but I think that's by design. It deals pretty well with small chop but can be a bit harsh on square edge bumps. I'm unfairly comparing it to my Norco but I do feel that they are on to something with their rearward axle path. Single pivot is a compromise in this area. The suspension really shines on soaking up drops and harsh jump landings. It also does a great job working with the short stays to keep the rear end super planted on climbs although you will want to use the platform switch if you really want to stand up and hammer. Although I wasn't aware of heel rub with pedaling, the seatstays rub the inside of the ankles when they compress under hard cornering. It actually kinda hurt a couple times.

    I have my bike paired up with the 140mm Pike. Even though I've never ridden it with a 120mm fork, I get the clear feeling the front end is a bit higher and slacker than it's meant to be. It's not necessarily a bad feeling, the bike doesn't feel unbalanced, but you are "aware" of it. I think it says a lot that the 111mm rear end can keep up with the best 140mm fork ever made (IMO!). The only downside is that I have to "hug the stem" quite a bit on climbs to keep the front end from floating. I'll probably end up lowering the fork in the near future.

    I think Pinkbike covered the descending characteristics well but to sum up, the bike never made me forget it only had 111mm of travel yet I felt way more comfortable descending on it than I had a right to. It was loads of fun!


    That was a lot more long winded than I intended it to be and I still probably left some stuff out but there ya go!

    If anyone wants has the opposite problem and wants to swap a L for a M let me know! Otherwise I will happily carry on with a 55mm stem.

  76. #76
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    Nice writeup..thanks. Would you lower the pike to 120mm or maybe try 130mm?

  77. #77
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    Awesome review!!!
    Thank you for telling us what you have on the bike, the weight and thoughts. Really informative.
    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Ok, so I did a long ride over the weekend and I've got some thoughts and my current build list. I'll start with the build.

    -Fork: Pike Currently set at 140mm
    -Drivetrain: X01 W/32T wolftooth direct mount
    -Wheels: Light Bicycle AM Carbon with hope hubs, Nobby Nic SS 2.35 F, Rocket Ron SS 2.25R
    -Brakes: X0 Trail W/Hope Rotors
    -Cockpit: Reverb Stealth post, Silverado saddle, 55mm Haven Stem, CB Opium DH bars, RF Half Nelson Grips

    It ended up weighing in at almost exactly 27lbs w/out pedals. I'm going to swap out the tires for a Specialized Butcher up front and a Purgatory in the rear. I think more aggressive tires will suit the bike better. I'm also going to swap out the bars for something in carbon and with less back sweep. Also I may add an MRP AMG or blackspire bruiser to protect my chainring.

    And for the ride impressions. I'm coming off a Canfield Yelli Screamy in size large and a Norco Sight Killer B in M which I sold to get this. If I had to sum up, this bike is pretty much a Yelli Screamy with some squish out back. For those of you that haven't ridden a Canfield I'll provide a bit more detail.

    Fit/Geo: I'm definitely on the upper edge of the medium size at 5'10 3/4" and regretfully I have to run a 55mm stem to make the cockpit work for me. I think I'd be a little happier on a large but I'm pretty comfortable anyway. I get they were going for an ultra low frame but the seattube is unnecessarily short. I don't have the longest legs but the reverb looks a bit goofy at full height. Doesn't seem to affect performance, just a bit strange. The long TT gives me enough room but once again a large would be better. I'm a big believer in the benefits of short chainstays and my beliefs were confirmed yet again on this bike. The short rear end lets me know what the back wheel is doing all the time, makes jumps a lot more comfortable, adds grip on the climbs, and just gives a general feeling of nimbleness without compromising stability.

    Suspension
    The suspension has a nice solid ramp up without being harsh. It's difficult to get full travel but I think that's by design. It deals pretty well with small chop but can be a bit harsh on square edge bumps. I'm unfairly comparing it to my Norco but I do feel that they are on to something with their rearward axle path. Single pivot is a compromise in this area. The suspension really shines on soaking up drops and harsh jump landings. It also does a great job working with the short stays to keep the rear end super planted on climbs although you will want to use the platform switch if you really want to stand up and hammer. Although I wasn't aware of heel rub with pedaling, the seatstays rub the inside of the ankles when they compress under hard cornering. It actually kinda hurt a couple times.

    I have my bike paired up with the 140mm Pike. Even though I've never ridden it with a 120mm fork, I get the clear feeling the front end is a bit higher and slacker than it's meant to be. It's not necessarily a bad feeling, the bike doesn't feel unbalanced, but you are "aware" of it. I think it says a lot that the 111mm rear end can keep up with the best 140mm fork ever made (IMO!). The only downside is that I have to "hug the stem" quite a bit on climbs to keep the front end from floating. I'll probably end up lowering the fork in the near future.

    I think Pinkbike covered the descending characteristics well but to sum up, the bike never made me forget it only had 111mm of travel yet I felt way more comfortable descending on it than I had a right to. It was loads of fun!


    That was a lot more long winded than I intended it to be and I still probably left some stuff out but there ya go!

    If anyone wants has the opposite problem and wants to swap a L for a M let me know! Otherwise I will happily carry on with a 55mm stem.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripley View Post
    Nice writeup..thanks. Would you lower the pike to 120mm or maybe try 130mm?
    If 130mm is an option I'd probably go that route. I know you can mod the pike to 120mm but can you lower it in 10mm increments?

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    If 130mm is an option I'd probably go that route. I know you can mod the pike to 120mm but can you lower it in 10mm increments?
    My understanding is that there are air shaft assemblies for 120mm & 130mm. I've seen the 120mm in stock at, for example Bikeman, but haven't come across the 130mm in stock anywhere. Haven't looked very hard yet, though. I've got a Pike on the way and trying to decide which travel to try, since it's a ~$40 invesment to change travel.

  80. #80
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    for those of you that already have their process(waiting on my frame), what kind of rear axle does it use? I know its 142x12 but is it maxle? or something else?.
    maybe a pic of it?

    thanks
    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  81. #81
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    'tis a maxle.

    Quote Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
    for those of you that already have their process(waiting on my frame), what kind of rear axle does it use? I know its 142x12 but is it maxle? or something else?.
    maybe a pic of it?

    thanks

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
    for those of you that already have their process(waiting on my frame), what kind of rear axle does it use? I know its 142x12 but is it maxle? or something else?.
    maybe a pic of it?

    thanks
    He u go!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Process 111/111 DL Thread-009.jpg  


  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripley View Post
    My understanding is that there are air shaft assemblies for 120mm & 130mm. I've seen the 120mm in stock at, for example Bikeman, but haven't come across the 130mm in stock anywhere. Haven't looked very hard yet, though. I've got a Pike on the way and trying to decide which travel to try, since it's a ~$40 invesment to change travel.
    My Pike with the 130 air shaft. Started as a 150.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Process 111/111 DL Thread-010.jpg  


  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    My Pike with the 130 air shaft. Started as a 150.
    Nice! So what's your impression @ 130mm. And what size frame?

    Any info will help, as I'm trying to make the 120 or 130mm decision with my pike + Large 111 frame.

  85. #85
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    Will also post this to 153 DL thread. This is for the 111 DL owners. There was story on the pinkbike that KS has come up with upgrade to their LEV Integra seatpost, that doesn't require moving of the cable housing. Acoording to the article This update should be free for those who own it already. I contaced KS about this but didn't get any response. Anyone else heard anything about this?
    Its at the end of this article -> First Look: VP, Biknd, KS - Taipei Show 2014 - Pinkbike

  86. #86
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    So this sizing dilemma is killing me. After a little more pedaling the bike I'm convinced it's just a bit to small. Even worse, the LBS seems to be going back on their promise to take it back. They just want me to put on a 70mm stem! To me that kind of defeats the purpose of the bike. It's so damn close to the right size but it's just that little bit cramped and it bothers me. Maybe I'm just being too picky.

    Anyway, if anyone is interested in a medium frame in perfect condition, shoot me a PM, I think I may have to size up.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripley View Post
    Nice! So what's your impression @ 130mm. And what size frame?

    Any info will help, as I'm trying to make the 120 or 130mm decision with my pike + Large 111 frame.
    I am also quite interested!

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripley View Post
    Nice! So what's your impression @ 130mm. And what size frame?

    Any info will help, as I'm trying to make the 120 or 130mm decision with my pike + Large 111 frame.
    I have only ridden up the street,off curbs etc.. The pike seems to be just as plush as when I had it at 150. I may go ride it on trails tomorrow. The frame is an XL. I put the 130 air shaft in, because I could not find a 120 yet. If I don't like it, I may switch it out when the 120 becomes available

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    So this sizing dilemma is killing me. After a little more pedaling the bike I'm convinced it's just a bit to small. Even worse, the LBS seems to be going back on their promise to take it back. They just want me to put on a 70mm stem! To me that kind of defeats the purpose of the bike. It's so damn close to the right size but it's just that little bit cramped and it bothers me. Maybe I'm just being too picky.

    Anyway, if anyone is interested in a medium frame in perfect condition, shoot me a PM, I think I may have to size up.
    dont put a 70mm stem on it!! i would say just sell it and get a new one in the next size up, i am sure it will be easy to sell.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    I have only ridden up the street,off curbs etc.. The pike seems to be just as plush as when I had it at 150. I may go ride it on trails tomorrow. The frame is an XL. I put the 130 air shaft in, because I could not find a 120 yet. If I don't like it, I may switch it out when the 120 becomes available
    Thanks for the info. Definitely let us know how it feels on the trail. Did you add tokens going to 130mm? I see that 3 tokens are recommended for 130mm. Looks like 1 token for 150mm.

  91. #91
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    Ok, PAID SPAM! If anybody wants one of these frames at a discount here's your chance! It comes with a new SRAM BB. Message me if you need any more details!

    Kona Process 111 Frame! Size M - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripley View Post
    Thanks for the info. Definitely let us know how it feels on the trail. Did you add tokens going to 130mm? I see that 3 tokens are recommended for 130mm. Looks like 1 token for 150mm.
    They have the 120 air shaft in stock now. I am sure they will not last long.

    Bikeman RockShox Pike Air Shaft Solo Air 150mm Travel 26/120mm Travel 29 A1

  93. #93
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    I found someone locally who has a large frame. Going to pick it up this evening, I'll probably hold onto both for the weekend to make sure I like the large better. Unfortunately I'm going to have to ride it this weekend with a 50mm stem as that's the shortest I have!

    Also I tried picking up the 120mm airshaft from bikeman. I can't find a 130mm in stock anywhere so I'm going to give this a try. I suppose it will give me the geometry that kona intended.
    Last edited by rusty904; 03-20-2014 at 03:01 PM.

  94. #94
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    Ripped straight from another website here in Australia. Got to be the sweetest Process 111's going around.


    Frame - kona process 111 small
    Rear shock - r/s monarch
    Front shock/fork - pike solo air dropped from 140-120mm
    Handlebars - enve riser
    Stem - stock kona 40mm
    Headset - stock sealed
    Grips - esi silicon
    Saddle - selle slr xc
    Seatpost - enve, dont need dropper's
    Front brake -new xtr carbon
    Rear brake - ^^^^^^^^
    Cranks - raceface next carbon 170mm
    Chainguide - none
    Chain - xx1
    Pedals - xtr spd
    Rear derailleur - xx1
    Rear shifter - xx1 trigger
    Cassette - xx1 10-42t
    Front hub - dt 240
    Rear hub - dt 240 upgraded engagment point,
    Front rim - enve am 29
    Rear rim - enve am 29
    Spokes - dt
    Nipples - enve
    Tyres - schwalbe ralph/nic 2.25
    Total weight - 11.55 no pedals 11.8 with pedals
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  95. #95
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    How many people are waiting for delivery? I have ordered a large >5months with significant deposit and am still waiting for delivery. With snow starting to go away and a long winter here in the northeast I am getting anxious to get my new bike. Are others who are not shop owners/ workers waiting long times like me?

  96. #96
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    Lol, why are you gaining a good anxious ? we are getting a snowstorm tomorrow.
    where are you located? I live in New Hampshire and I just got my 134 DL. thankfully I called around and one was on the way a week ago with nobody putting a deposit on it.
    you should get yours soon, and I am guessing within the end of the month, because a 134 DL in a medium is coming to the shop I got my bike from and the KONA rep told the owner that it should be delivered by the end of the month. if you are by new hampshire pM me if you want to ride in a month or two.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dingus518 View Post
    How many people are waiting for delivery? I have ordered a large >5months with significant deposit and am still waiting for delivery. With snow starting to go away and a long winter here in the northeast I am getting anxious to get my new bike. Are others who are not. shop owners/ workers waiting long times like me?

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    Thanks. I am a bit further west so hopefully won't get the snow. Based on comments in reviews and such I have a hunch the run for 111's is going to be less than the 27.5 wheeled bikes. Would be disappointed if I need to switch.

    Launching frozen snowbanks would have been fun to start learning the bike.
    Last edited by Dingus518; 03-24-2014 at 05:55 PM.

  98. #98
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    Any issues with bottom brackets creaking? About to pull the trigger but potential press fit bb issues are my final reservation.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    I have only ridden up the street,off curbs etc.. I may go ride it on trails tomorrow.
    Hey pdqmach26, did you get a ride in at the 130mm setting? I'm wondering how it is, as I contemplate at length to cut & tap my current air shaft..

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    Any issues with bottom brackets creaking? About to pull the trigger but potential press fit bb issues are my final reservation.
    these bikes use BB92 not PF30, so they are fine.

  101. #101
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    So I've decided to take a gamble and powdercoat my frame. Nothing in the warranty specifically against it and I don't foresee breaking this thing. (famous last words)

    Anybody want to throw out a color suggestion? I've looked at Satin bronze, black chrome, and satin gunmetal finishes but I won't rule out bright colors either. Pretty much the whole build is matte black and I'm thinking about leaving the rear triangle black to save cost. Opinions?

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    So I've decided to take a gamble and powdercoat my frame. Nothing in the warranty specifically against it and I don't foresee breaking this thing. (famous last words)

    Anybody want to throw out a color suggestion? I've looked at Satin bronze, black chrome, and satin gunmetal finishes but I won't rule out bright colors either. Pretty much the whole build is matte black and I'm thinking about leaving the rear triangle black to save cost. Opinions?
    I've always wanted to paint a frame in the bright blue Specialized had on the SX Trail: SX Trail Darren Berrecloth edition - Aftermarket's Bike Check - Vital MTB

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    So I've decided to take a gamble and powdercoat my frame. Nothing in the warranty specifically against it and I don't foresee breaking this thing. (famous last words)

    Anybody want to throw out a color suggestion? I've looked at Satin bronze, black chrome, and satin gunmetal finishes but I won't rule out bright colors either. Pretty much the whole build is matte black and I'm thinking about leaving the rear triangle black to save cost. Opinions?
    I couldn't find anything on US Kona's warranty page, but pulled this from their European website:

    Warranty Limitations:

    The warranty will be voided in the following situations:
    - Material abuse (e.g. use of a XC bike for Freeride applications, Racing)
    - Bad maintenance or use of non-appropriated components (ex: DH fork on a Back-Country frame)
    - Frame not suited for the rider morphology (e.g. a 17-inch frame for a 1,85m tall rider)
    - Problem due to crashes or accidents
    - Bicycle purchased second hand or from a non-authorized Kona dealer
    - Material fatigue (please refer to the owner’s manual for further details about frame material and fatigue)
    - Re painting by a non Kona Authorized painter, or if the frame has been stripped of its paint
    - Any altering of spec which may affect the performance
    warranty.konaworld.com/documents/Europeanwarranty.doc

  104. #104
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    Process 111/111 DL Thread

    And that is exactly why Kona made the process 111 prone to heel rub on rear stays so that when paint rubs off it's not under warranty 😝

  105. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I couldn't find anything on US Kona's warranty page, but pulled this from their European website:



    warranty.konaworld.com/documents/Europeanwarranty.doc
    Oh well, I suppose I don't have a warranty anyway as this frame had 20miles on it when I bought it. If Kona didn't want me to strip the paint they should have made it available in a better color!

    Right now my plan is to soda blast the frame. If I like it raw, I'll probably leave it as-is, if I don't I'll figure out a powdercoat color.

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Right now my plan is to soda blast the frame. If I like it raw, I'll probably leave it as-is, if I don't I'll figure out a powdercoat color.
    I'm with you on the 111color schemes. Not so much the color as how busy it looks. Which I think is just clear-coated decals. I vote RAW! I dig raw frames and the prototype pics of the 111 in raw look fantastic.

  107. #107
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    Rust904, did you ever get a chance to ride the larger size w the shorter stem? I'm in a similar situation as you being 6'1" and thinking of going XL 35mm stem (Vs. large with 55mm). Your feedback would definitely help with my choice. FYI, I'm also leaning toward a pike 130.

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    Rust904, did you ever get a chance to ride the larger size w the shorter stem? I'm in a similar situation as you being 6'1" and thinking of going XL 35mm stem (Vs. large with 55mm). Your feedback would definitely help with my choice. FYI, I'm also leaning toward a pike 130.
    Yes I found a large frame and I am currently riding it with a 40mm stem. I think it feels just right. I could even go with a 35mm but I don't really see a reason to. I knocked my knees against the bar on tight uphill switchbacks with the medium and a 55stem, no such problems with the large. Also, I really like not having such a huge amount of exposed seatpost.

    I could have lived with the medium just fine but the opportunity arose to get a large and sell my medium without really losing any money, so I took it. I think it was the right choice. This bike really thrives with a super short stem.

  109. #109
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    Thanks fro the update Rusty. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the XL frame.

  110. #110
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    Front triangle doesn't look great after a soda blast. Looks like bright silver spray paint. Taking it to the powdercoat shop tomorrow. Pretty excited.

    On an unrelated note, I'm thinking about switching to some rubber soled shoes, the giro terraduro specifically. I'm a little worried about that a wider "trail" type shoe might accelerate the heel rub issues we've all seen on this frame. Anyone using this type of shoe that can shed light on the issue?

  111. #111
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    So my XL just arrived and even in the XL I'm going to have a lot of post showing. Can someone help me on dropper post sizing? Looking at either a reverb 420 w 125 or 150 drop, or 430 w 150 drop.

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    So my XL just arrived and even in the XL I'm going to have a lot of post showing. Can someone help me on dropper post sizing? Looking at either a reverb 420 w 125 or 150 drop, or 430 w 150 drop.
    I am using the Reverb 420 w/125 drop. It's the standard style, no stealth, and it works fine. I already had it, so I did not want to go spend another $400 on a new post.

  113. #113
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    For anyone who put a pike on your process 111 -- did you go with the 46mm rake version or the 51mm rake?
    Last edited by SB Trails; 04-06-2014 at 12:54 PM.

  114. #114
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    I ordered the standard 46mm version but don't have it yet (nor have I built the frame up). Already picked up the 130mm airshaft and plan to change the length before installing. That said, anyone have any experience with a 130mm fork yet?

  115. #115
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    Still waiting for my frameset with no definite delivery date. If anyone has a line on a large frame please let me know.

  116. #116
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    Matmatt, I'll send yo a PM the shop that hooked me up a week ago. They had a large at the time I decided to buy.

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    Matmatt.. In case chowda's shop doesnt have a L left in stock-- Ill pm you also.. The shop i just got my xl from had 3 or 4 frames in stock and i think 1 of them was a large.. Id post it here but not sure if that is cool or not.. I dont work for the shop or have any affiliation-- i just know they had a few frames there when i picked mine up..

    Chowda-- how come you went with a 130 vs a 120? I ask cause i was thinking about doing the same thing-- a bit more travel is always good.. My worry is taking a bike that everyone praises for geo and ride quality and changing things that might effect the ride characteristics..

  118. #118
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    If anyone has a line on an XL 111 frame, please let me know via PM!

    I was in Hawaii last week and talked to a guy out there who's in deep with Kona. Expect Carbon Processes to drop in August. Exciting!

  119. #119
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    [QUOTE=chowdapilot;11116054]I ordered the standard 46mm version but don't have it yet (nor have I built the frame up). Already picked up the 130mm airshaft and plan to change the length before installing. That said, anyone have any experience with a 130mm fork yet?[/QUOTE

    Check post #83

  120. #120
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    I got my bike back from the powdercoaters and built up for some Pisgah riding last weekend. I'm pretty pleased with the results of the "satin gunmetal". Not sure if I'm going to put some decals on it or not. I do need to figure out a way to re-stick the headtube badge.

    I did about 50miles of technical riding over the weekend in Pisgah and I couldn't be more pleased with the bike. It's just a beast. Very lively and playful and surprisingly good at techy climbs. I think I was ripping descents faster than ever on it and it just loves to change direction and pop off roots and rocks. Found my airing large sections and hopping over trail obstacles a lot more than usual.

    For those interested, I think I may keep the fork at 140mm. I had no problem keeping the front end down on climbs and the slacker headtube angle really shines on high speed descents. I think the capability of the frame matches a 140mm fork just fine. I could see how a 120mm fork might be better when less speed/elevation/tech is involved but that is not a problem in the mountains. To be fair however, I've never ridden the bike in any other configuration. If anything I may experiment with 130mm but I'm in no rush to change it.

    I have a 120mm airshaft if anyone is interested!

    Process 111/111 DL Thread-img_1239.jpg

  121. #121
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    Yup checked post 83 but didn't see anything about how the bike rides with a 130mm fork. Guess I'll just have to find out.

  122. #122
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    One moreProcess 111/111 DL Thread-photo-14-.jpg

  123. #123
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    So is that the raw frame or did you paint it silver?

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    So is that the raw frame or did you paint it silver?
    It's satin gunmetal powdercoat. Raw was my original plan but frame had a texture that made it look like it was spray painted silver after soda blasting.

  125. #125
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    Looks good, similar to the proto pics. Now slap your headtube badge back on.

  126. #126
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    Thanks! I'm happy with it especially for the money. (He only charged me $45!). Still trying to figure out the best way to stick the badge back on.

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Thanks! I'm happy with it especially for the money. (He only charged me $45!). Still trying to figure out the best way to stick the badge back on.
    That's a good deal! Paint job looks terrific..nice color choice.

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    Matmatt, I'll send yo a PM the shop that hooked me up a week ago. They had a large at the time I decided to buy.
    Quote Originally Posted by SB Trails View Post
    Matmatt.. In case chowda's shop doesnt have a L left in stock-- Ill pm you also.. The shop i just got my xl from had 3 or 4 frames in stock and i think 1 of them was a large.. Id post it here but not sure if that is cool or not.. I dont work for the shop or have any affiliation-- i just know they had a few frames there when i picked mine up..
    Funny enough, you both directed me to the same shop. I spoke with them today and they are holding one of the larges for me until tonight. I need to make sure getting my deposit back from my LBS is going to be painless before giving money to another shop. Hopefully it all works out and by this time tomorrow I'll have a 111 frame on it's way to my house.

  129. #129
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    chowda.. I talked to a guy today that is running the 130 on his 111 and says it feels the same as the 120.. So im thinking im going to run 130 on my xl 111...

    The part im stuck on is if i should go 46mm offset or 51mm offset... The revelation is 46mm offset-- but that is all that is offered with the rev.. If kona had put the pike on-- i wonder if it would have been 46 or 51.. I know mandell is running a pike on his 111, but no idea which one it is..

  130. #130
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    From my limited amount of research I went with the standard 46mm offset. I gather the 51mm would make the wheelbase even longer so I think 46 is the ticket. That said, offset is totally new to me so I may be completely wrong.

  131. #131
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    Large 111 frame is in the mail as we speak. Thanks to Chowdapilot and SB Trails for directing me to a shop. I felt bad about going to my LBS and getting a refund for my deposit but they understood and were really apologetic.

  132. #132
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    matt-- glad that worked out.. Im sure youll be needing all kinds of new jibs for your bike-- so your lbs will be getting your money one way or the other lol..

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Thanks! I'm happy with it especially for the money. (He only charged me $45!). Still trying to figure out the best way to stick the badge back on.
    3M VHB tape!!

    I will be down in Brevard early October on my Kona Honzo. A little time in Ashville too. I hear the riding is good...

  134. #134
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    I considered something like that but I an having a hard time cutting out the holes in the "K" logo so that it looks clean.

    Riding down here is amazing. Bent Creek is good but the Pisgah Ranger district is just unbelievable.

    Quote Originally Posted by hjulier View Post
    3M VHB tape!!

    I will be down in Brevard early October on my Kona Honzo. A little time in Ashville too. I hear the riding is good...

  135. #135
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    Tons of sizing info here but can anyone post up ride reviews? All you can find on this bike other tan the Pink Bike review is that it is a great bike. Pro ride reviews generally take place on buff trails, I ride rocky technical trails in Az and wonder if its enough suspension to ride higher speed rocky descents? Not looking for a DH bike obviously but I do want to have some fun. I'm really interested in this bike but cant help but think 27.5 with more travel might be the way to go? Any thoughts?

  136. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by confused View Post
    Tons of sizing info here but can anyone post up ride reviews? All you can find on this bike other tan the Pink Bike review is that it is a great bike. Pro ride reviews generally take place on buff trails, I ride rocky technical trails in Az and wonder if its enough suspension to ride higher speed rocky descents? Not looking for a DH bike obviously but I do want to have some fun. I'm really interested in this bike but cant help but think 27.5 with more travel might be the way to go? Any thoughts?
    I did about 55 miles of East Coast type tech in Pisgah last weekend. Terrain is relatively steep, tons of exposed roots, waterbars, and rock. Some of the faster stuff can get you above 30mph if you really let loose. Doubt it's as rocky as the stuff in your area but most people consider the area pretty technical.

    I had a blast on that terrain and I felt like I was maintaining speeds consistent with my previous full suspension (Norco Sight 650b). My friend on a Yeti SB66 who I consider to be at an equal skill level was struggling to keep up. I think the 140 Pike adds a lot to the descending ability and I liked the ability to easily hop over rough sections of trail instead of plowing through them. The short travel makes the bike very easy to get off the ground. It still only has 111mm of rear travel but it's immensely capable especially with a slightly longer fork. I consider myself a pretty quick downhiller but since I ride a hardtail primarily, I tend to pick my lines rather carefully. I think you should give it a try, don't think you'll be disappointed.

  137. #137
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    Thanks for the reply, does the 140 fork hamper the climbing ability at all? Iv'e read a few reviews that recommend leaving the travel at 120 not to undo the geometry. I like slack bikes so probably not that big of a deal but sometimes bikes just dont agree with big forks.

  138. #138
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    Rusty, just saw one of your earlier post on the 140 fork. Next question, wheelbase. Im riding a medium Tallboy that has a 44" wheelbase, the med Kona has a 45" WB. I'm 6' and am thinking about the large frame but that has a 46" WB, getting kinda long and worried about the "nimbleness"

  139. #139
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    Never found the bike to be unwieldy and/or lacking in nimbleness. Chainstays are nice and short, (16.9 vs. 17.5 on the tallboy). The front center is longer but I think the shorter stem on the kona yields more direct steering. It's not an XC bike like the Tallboy though and I think it's designed to be more stable.

    The longer fork does slow things down a bit on tight, low speed stuff but I primarily use the bike on steeper terrain so the compromise is more than worth the extra capability for me. When it comes time for the first service I will likely try it out at 130mm.

    To answer your earlier question, I don't have any issue climbing with it. Most of my bikes have been set up with short stems so I might have just gotten used to it. I personally like the short stem in technical climbing because I can easily lift the front end over trail obstacles.

    I'd think you'd want a large but if you like your M SC you might be able to do a medium. That's be a lot of exposed seat tube though.

  140. #140
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    Just unboxed my 111 frame, for those curious my scale puts it at 7lbs 12oz with shock, rear axle and seatpost clamp. A little portly but I'm not worried. Even if there is a 111 carbon on the horizon, I'll ride this guy for a year or so and get all of the parts figured out then upgrade to the carbon and swap everything over.

    As for the build, I was going to go high end right off the bat but I've decided to swap over my existing build from my Mason HT, give the bike a few rides and figure out what works. Hopefully I'll get it built tonight, I'll post pics of the frame/build ASAP.

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    Yup checked post 83 but didn't see anything about how the bike rides with a 130mm fork. Guess I'll just have to find out.
    Where'd you get your 130mm airshaft? I'll probably wait until the fork needs service to change travel but I can't find one anywhere.

  142. #142
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    Ebay.

  143. #143
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    Can anyone confirm the seatpost diameter? Someone in another thread said all Processes were 31.6 so I bought a reverb in that size but it won't go in the frame. A 30.9 post I have lying around fits pretty snug....

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    31.6 is what my honzo uses and that post fits my process too.

  145. #145
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    31.6 is what kona confirm to me by email...(still waiting on my frame...apparently ill get it on the 24th)
    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  146. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    31.6 is what my honzo uses and that post fits my process too.
    Quote Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
    31.6 is what kona confirm to me by email...(still waiting on my frame...apparently ill get it on the 24th)
    I e-mailed Kona as well, they got back to me in less than 5 minutes! Upon further inspection the very end of the seat tube was a little ovalized making it hard to get the post in. After a little extra grease I was able to get it in, hopefully it won't be a problem anymore. But now I have a whole other issue, I looked at the press fit GXP BB and didn't see any designation for drive side/nondrive side so I didn't pay it any mind. Then I went to put the crank in and realized I did have it backwards and unfortunately i don't have the tool to remove the BB so I'll be making a call to the shop tomorrow. Hopefully I can still get it built by this weekend...

  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by matmattmatthew View Post
    I e-mailed Kona as well, they got back to me in less than 5 minutes! Upon further inspection the very end of the seat tube was a little ovalized making it hard to get the post in. After a little extra grease I was able to get it in, hopefully it won't be a problem anymore. But now I have a whole other issue, I looked at the press fit GXP BB and didn't see any designation for drive side/nondrive side so I didn't pay it any mind. Then I went to put the crank in and realized I did have it backwards and unfortunately i don't have the tool to remove the BB so I'll be making a call to the shop tomorrow. Hopefully I can still get it built by this weekend...
    Tap the cups out with a wooden dowel.

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    Ebay.
    No luck there so far but I'll have to keep my eyes open. Seems like a tough thing to come by.

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    Are you SURE yours is 130 chowda? The guy i use for parts contacted sram and they said they only make a 120 and a 140/150-- but no 130... I think a 130 would be sweet..


    edit(this might help others)... I just read this on here but also remember hearing it from a mechanic that works on suspension---- what you do to get 130mm on your 29er pike is order a 27.5 150mm air shaft-- and that comes out to 130mm on the 29er forks.. 160 on 26=150 on 27.5=130 on 29er.

  150. #150
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    Mine is indeed a 130mm, says right there on the airshshaft. Just so you know it also fits/list the following:
    26" = 160mm
    27.5" = 150mm
    29" = 130mm

    These numbers are clearly marked on the airshaft and also included in the RS parts manual.

    This page also shows the part clearly marked:
    Regularbob's bike blog: Reducing the Rockshox Pike RCT3 Solo Air travel

    Hope that helps.

  151. #151
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    chowda.. can you feel any difference between the 120 and 130 when riding?

  152. #152
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    Sorry but the bike isn't currently together and it will probably be another 3 weeks before I get around to my build. I can tell you that when I switched from 120 to 130mm (revelation) on my Honzo, I definitely noticed a difference. Steering was slower with fewer pedal strikes. 120 was better on single track but 130 performed better on steeper technical trails. All in all I'd say both performed equally well though at 130mm I would never think of going to 140mm. In my opinion 140mm on a honzo would take it out of the bike's intended sweet spot and I can only assume this would also be the case with the process.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    In my opinion 140mm on a honzo would take it out of the bike's intended sweet spot and I can only assume this would also be the case with the process.
    Doubt it. I ran my Honzo first with a 140/110 Talas 34 in the lower setting most of the time and hated it, pedal strike galore. Then switched to a 120 Revelation and still wasn't impressed. Now rocking a Fox Float 34 140 and it's a beast.

  154. #154
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    No worries, I'm just saying that for me 120 to 130 is best. I would never go less than 120 or more than 130 on the Honzo but there are many that would not agree with me. In the end I'm sure the 111 will be fun regardless.

  155. #155
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    I've been living my Honzo, and am putting a 140 Pike on it this weekend! However, with a host of trips coming up in 2015 to ride including Iceland, I am interested in making the switch to a 111... but after i shred on the Honzo this season. I am literally counting the days till "August" when the carbon version is supposed to drop...

    This new geometry paradigm is really helping out tall guys like me.

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjulier View Post
    I've been living my Honzo, and am putting a 140 Pike on it this weekend! However, with a host of trips coming up in 2015 to ride including Iceland, I am interested in making the switch to a 111... but after i shred on the Honzo this season. I am literally counting the days till "August" when the carbon version is supposed to drop...

    This new geometry paradigm is really helping out tall guys like me.
    I'm in the same boar, 6'4" and love my 20" Long Honzo with a Fox 34 140 up front but I'm slowly getting tired of getting sometimes beat up on longer rides and need some squish in the back. I've been eyeing a few FS frames but want to see what the Process line looks for next year in 29er format.

  157. #157
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    I got two rides in this weekend on my process including a 25 mile ride yesterday. The bike is awesome!!! It's like someone at Kona went into my brain and made this bike exactly for me and my local trails. The talas 34 I put on the bike can be switched between 120 and 140 but I found myself riding in the 120 for most of the ride because it felt more balanced and the steering was noticeably quicker. I did flip it to 140 for a few steeper sections of trails and also tried it on the flats but still tended to prefer the 120 setting. Although some of the enduros I plan on racing this summer at at Bike Parks where I might prefer the 140. I had plans to switch to a Pike 140 but the travel adjust of the Talas is making me reconsider. I'll write a more comprehensive review, including pics when I get a little more time.

    I do have one question for process owners, in the section of the frame where the shift cable goes through the downtube, are you guys using ferrules? When I built the frame I couldn't get any of my ferrules to fit so I went without them. While I was riding I had some weird ghost shifting and couldn't seem to remedy it while on the trails.

  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by matmattmatthew View Post
    I do have one question for process owners, in the section of the frame where the shift cable goes through the downtube, are you guys using ferrules? When I built the frame I couldn't get any of my ferrules to fit so I went without them. While I was riding I had some weird ghost shifting and couldn't seem to remedy it while on the trails.
    yes, use ferrules, metal might not fit, try plastic.

  159. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by matmattmatthew View Post
    I got two rides in this weekend on my process including a 25 mile ride yesterday. The bike is awesome!!! It's like someone at Kona went into my brain and made this bike exactly for me and my local trails. The talas 34 I put on the bike can be switched between 120 and 140 but I found myself riding in the 120 for most of the ride because it felt more balanced and the steering was noticeably quicker. I did flip it to 140 for a few steeper sections of trails and also tried it on the flats but still tended to prefer the 120 setting. Although some of the enduros I plan on racing this summer at at Bike Parks where I might prefer the 140. I had plans to switch to a Pike 140 but the travel adjust of the Talas is making me reconsider. I'll write a more comprehensive review, including pics when I get a little more time.

    I do have one question for process owners, in the section of the frame where the shift cable goes through the downtube, are you guys using ferrules? When I built the frame I couldn't get any of my ferrules to fit so I went without them. While I was riding I had some weird ghost shifting and couldn't seem to remedy it while on the trails.
    Isn't the Talas 34 29 usually only 140 or 110 in travel?

  160. #160
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    Anyone have luck securing extra derailleur hangers? Been trying to get my lbs to get some for me for about a month with no luck.

    Kona made a great bike but I guess they are having a hard time keeping up with demand.

  161. #161
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    I used the plastic ferrules that came with my saint shifter and they fit fine. I got the 1st three rides in over the wkend on my freshly built proc111 and the 120mm travel felt really good. I was originally planning to lower my Pike to 130mm, but couldn't find an air shaft. So ended up at 120 with the thought I'd switch to 130mm down the road. We'll see, I may just stay with 120mm.

  162. #162
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    So I guess I need to revise my statement about a 140mm fork on the Honzo/Process. After measuring the travel on my Honzo I was surprised to see I actually have a 140mm revelation. When purchased from CRC a few years ago I ordered the 130mm but they must of shipped the wrong fork. That said 140mm would be my max on the Honzo and 120mm my min, so I'm guessing 130mm on the Process will probably be the best of both worlds.

  163. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Isn't the Talas 34 29 usually only 140 or 110 in travel?
    Just looked up the Spec's on the bike I swapped my Talas from and sure enough it's 110. No wonder the steering felt dramatically quicker when I dropped it down from 140. That makes me think a Pike at 120 might be perfect on the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by dogbox View Post
    yes, use ferrules, metal might not fit, try plastic.
    I added plastic ferrules and they fit perfectly, the shifting was much improved, until I broke my chain....

  164. #164
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    Anyone selling a frame? lol
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  165. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonesy22 View Post
    Anyone selling a frame? lol
    what size you need?

  166. #166
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    Im riding a medium yelli screamy and a large 13 bandit 29 right now
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  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonesy22 View Post
    Anyone selling a frame? lol
    No more race bike build?

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogbox View Post
    what size you need?
    I'd love to buy an XL second-hand.

  169. #169
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    I'm all over the place. Lol
    I don't know what I want!
    Someone needs to organize an event here in ohio with every major bike to test out lol
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  170. #170
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    Just got another 16 mile ride in today. I LOVE this bike!!! I tried riding it with the fork at 140mm for the whole ride but ended up dropping it back down to the 110 for all but a few descents. I know when I get out to some big mountains and some enduros I'm going to appreciate the 140 setting more but it also has me questioning getting a Pike. Is the dual position Pike like the Talas with it's travel settings? i.e Can it be ridden hard in both travel settings or is the lower travel setting just for climbing?

  171. #171
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    Hey guys, I have sort of general question which might not have anything specifically to do with the Process but might just be a fit question. I swapped over everything from my hardtail including saddle, handlebars, stem, everything. So each ride at about the 1 hour mark I'm getting a lot of numbness in my hands, mostly on the inside of my thumb, between the thumb and pointer, it occasionally turns into a shooting pain up my forearm. In all my years of riding this is a completely new issue. I adjusted the roll of my bars slightly which helped a little but didn't cure the problem. I checked the geometry and the Process has a reach over 15mm longer than my previous bike. The stem I swapped over is 50mm so I'm thinking I should start there and get a shorter stem, I'm also considering upgrading to carbon bars to take dampen the trail a bit. My current bars are Renthal DH bars and they are quite stiff, but I had them on my old bike and they weren't an issue so I'm not sure...

    Any suggestions?

  172. #172
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    What is the shock size/stroke on the 111? I've combed the interwebs and can't find an answer anywhere...

  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    What is the shock size/stroke on the 111? I've combed the interwebs and can't find an answer anywhere...
    Same as the odd-ball Phantom.

    Monarch RT3 in 184x44mm (7.25x1.75)

    New Trail Bike - Odd size shock and offset bushings

  174. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Same as the odd-ball Phantom.

    Monarch RT3 in 184x44mm (7.25x1.75)

    New Trail Bike - Odd size shock and offset bushings
    Haha, that was my thread. To be honest, the Monarch has performed flawlessly and I haven't really considered replacing it. I'm hoping to get to some Enduros that are lift assisted this summer so we'll see how the shock holds up on long rough descents.

    And as far as the numbness I was talking about, I adjusted the nose of my saddle down just slightly and slid it forward on the rails a few mm and that seemed to really help. I was still getting a little numbness during my 3 hour ride this morning but it was no where near as bad as the last few rides. I still think I may swap out the stem to a 35/40mm and might upgrade to carbon bars.

  175. #175
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    So at just about 5'10 or 71 inches tall. 31 inseam would a Large work or Medium?
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  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonesy22 View Post
    So at just about 5'10 or 71 inches tall. 31 inseam would a Large work or Medium?
    I have the same height and inseam and i bought a large. I have long arms so its always a better fit for me to go large.

    You ride a medium yelli scramy, I used to ride a large yelli screamy with 50mm stem. The kona has a 35mm stem to acheive same reach ( by the way, i'm the guy that bought your marzo 44),

    if you were ok on your med yelli, think both could fit you depending on stem lenght you currently use. Calculate aproximately 20mm less stem lenght vs the yelli
    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  177. #177
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    Hey!
    You still have your yelli? Or just the process? How you like it?
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  178. #178
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    I sold the yelli, it was a test on the 29er for me, test was conclusive so i bought a process as i feel its the full suspension vesrion of my yelli.... I also sold my canfield one.

    My process will arrive friday. I cant wait to get it
    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  179. #179
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    Nice
    Just sold my yelli. Have a bandit 29 also but looking for a process for my second bike since it's so similar to the yelli
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  180. #180
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    What's your guys builds weigh?
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  181. #181
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    I haven't thrown mine on a scale yet but the frame is about 2.5 lbs heavier than my previous bike and I swapped all of my parts over, that bike was 27.5lbs so I'll venture to say my 111 is 30lbs. It's obviously not "lightweight" by current trail bike standards but it carries the weight well and never feels heavy on the trails. I've had at least 30 PR's on my local trails including a few KOM's so it doesn't seem to be slowing me down. My planned upgrades should drop at least two pounds, and if they drop a pound or two with the carbon version I'll be all over it.

    I'd also love if they found a way to squeeze a bottle mount inside the carbon version as well.

  182. #182
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    Mine weighs 29.3 lbs. will be right around 30 with the reverb...
    2014 Kona Process 111 size xl, with some changes. 2 ztr arch rims on dt swiss 350 hubs rolling with tubeless schwalbe nobby nics, 2 180 mm rotors, 32t narrow wide chainring, shimano zee derailleur, saint m-820 shifter, 35 mm carbon race face sixc 800mm bar, 35 mm long 35 mm race face atlas stem. Just missing a reverb stealth and my chromag lynx saddle and it will be perfect!

    Process 111/111 DL Thread-p4pb10886456.jpg

  183. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonesy22 View Post
    So at just about 5'10 or 71 inches tall. 31 inseam would a Large work or Medium?
    Pick a size yet? Maybe this will sway your decision.

    Kona Process 111 Frame L 2014 29er | eBay

    Super bummed it wasn't an XL.

  184. #184
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    Lol been watching it already for a few days
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  185. #185
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    Forgot to post a picture of my build.

    crappy cell pic
    Process 111/111 DL Thread-10255842_10101391113379558_6849807975325927678_o.jpg

  186. #186
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    In the picture is the fork in 110 or 140 mode?

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    In the picture is the fork in 110 or 140 mode?
    That was in the 140 mode, about 200 feet into my first ride when I had to stop and adjust the roll of the bars. About 200 feet later I dropped it to 110.

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Pick a size yet? Maybe this will sway your decision.

    Kona Process 111 Frame L 2014 29er | eBay

    Super bummed it wasn't an XL.
    We would have been in a bidding war!!

  189. #189
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    eurospek- it's all yours!

    Kona Process 111 DL Frameset 29er XL | eBay

    (i've decided to wait for the carbon version)

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by matmattmatthew View Post
    That was in the 140 mode, about 200 feet into my first ride when I had to stop and adjust the roll of the bars. About 200 feet later I dropped it to 110.
    Not what I've wanted to hear. How was it at 140mm? I have a Fox Float 34 140mm on my Honzo and I love all the travel, and yet hated it with only 110mm when I ran a Talas 34 previously.

  191. #191
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    with my yelli screamy I used an angleset to slacken the angle 1.5deg and used a marzo 44 micro ti at 140mm... was a perfect combo.

    I should get my process111 tomorrow, I will start with my fork at 120mm, but plan on doing the angleset/140mm in the future
    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Not what I've wanted to hear. How was it at 140mm? I have a Fox Float 34 140mm on my Honzo and I love all the travel, and yet hated it with only 110mm when I ran a Talas 34 previously.
    For my local trail systems 100-120mm of travel and good geometry is really all you need for 90% of the trails. I could get away with the talas at 140mm on my previous bike because it was a hardtail. Honestly, the reason for dropping it to 110 vs 140 is more about the quicker handling than it is about the travel. There are a few descents that I bumped it back up to 140 and flipped the Monarch to Open, but as soon as I finish the descent I go right back to 110. I have yet to ride the bike for a complete ride at 140 to see if I get used to it but I think I'll give it a try on my next ride. Right now I'm glad I have the 140 mode because I do plan to ride the bike on some bigger trails and lift assisted mountains.

  193. #193
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    Finally finished mine. First ride tomorrow.

    <a href="https://s135.photobucket.com/user/fleanutz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/C563166A-5D1D-4DC3-B23B-5AA4EFC72125_zpsxt2qbfio.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q140/fleanutz/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/C563166A-5D1D-4DC3-B23B-5AA4EFC72125_zpsxt2qbfio.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo C563166A-5D1D-4DC3-B23B-5AA4EFC72125_zpsxt2qbfio.jpg"/></a>

  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonesy22 View Post
    Lol been watching it already for a few days
    Why did Kona make such a short ST on these? The Reach and Stack would work just fine on the Large for me comparing with the 20" Long Honzo, but I'm missing over an inch in seat tube to get fully extended pedal positioning. I just measured and compared in the garage as I would really love to bid on that Large but I'm going to pass.

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowdapilot View Post
    So my XL just arrived
    Done yet?

  196. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Why did Kona make such a short ST on these? The Reach and Stack would work just fine on the Large for me comparing with the 20" Long Honzo, but I'm missing over an inch in seat tube to get fully extended pedal positioning. I just measured and compared in the garage as I would really love to bid on that Large but I'm going to pass.
    Mainly to work with a 6" dropper post and to provide lots of stand over clearance, especially for the smaller frames. Just get a longer seat post.

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    Mainly to work with a 6" dropper post and to provide lots of stand over clearance, especially for the smaller frames. Just get a longer seat post.
    The don't make longer dropper posts than 430mm!!! And that's with only 80mm post inserted into the XL frame with a 420mm Reverb. I ran the numbers and I'd still be maxing out the post for efficient full extended peddling. And I'm not really confident in the ST with only 80mm of post inserted into it. I can understand the short seat tube on smaller sizes, but 18.3" ST on an XL clearly marketed for people over 6'2" is absurd, especially with reach numbers over 19" and ETT of 26". It just doesn't make sense. Hopefully they change this in 2015.

  198. #198
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    Interesting. They did this, (through my filter anyway), for two reasons. First, in order to accommodate people who aren't able to achieve a low pedaling height with a dropper installed like most other manufacturers out there, they can drop the seat tube overall length and people can get more out of their dropper and still pedal perfectly.

    I'm a perfect example; on another bike I have, I have 1mm or so from the collar on the reverb to the seat clamp. Other people I know have a seat tube 1/4" too high, forcing them out of their comfort zone (and I think this will cause problems for them after big miles).

    The other factor is, I might now be able to squeeze a 150mm travel seat dropper where I could have only had ~120mm or less in the past. With less wiggle room. An extra inch helps me shred that much harder. Some people who are more skilled and/or who have longer inseams will not have this problem. But going from an old frame with a 15" seat tube (which I had ZERO problems finding a proper pedaling height with) to a frame with a 17.5" seat tube really affected my descending in a negative way.

    Think if you had a seat height that was equivalent to a BMX bike while you were descending. You would have so much more control over the bike than with a high seat. It's a dropper post issue taken to the extreme end.

    Now, of course, if you can't find a proper pedal height without exceeding the minimum recommended insertion level on the seat tube, that will be a problem for you. Are you super long legged? It was a surprise to me that Kona kept the larger bike sizes with such short seat tubes, but I personally welcome this change.

    If the rest of the manufacturers are listening, this is HUGE. This trend is going in the RIGHT direction.

    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Why did Kona make such a short ST on these? The Reach and Stack would work just fine on the Large for me comparing with the 20" Long Honzo, but I'm missing over an inch in seat tube to get fully extended pedal positioning. I just measured and compared in the garage as I would really love to bid on that Large but I'm going to pass.

  199. #199
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    Find another frame unless they change seat tube length on the largest size for future model years... which might not be a bad idea, but asking for long seat tubes for all sizes across the board is going backwards, not forward.

    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    The don't make longer dropper posts than 430mm!!! And that's with only 80mm post inserted into the XL frame with a 420mm Reverb. I ran the numbers and I'd still be maxing out the post for efficient full extended peddling. And I'm not really confident in the ST with only 80mm of post inserted into it. I can understand the short seat tube on smaller sizes, but 18.3" ST on an XL clearly marketed for people over 6'2" is absurd, especially with reach numbers over 19" and ETT of 26". It just doesn't make sense. Hopefully they change this in 2015.

  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by brettf View Post
    Find another frame unless they change seat tube length on the largest size for future model years... which might not be a bad idea, but asking for long seat tubes for all sizes across the board is going backwards, not forward.


    The short seat tube makes sense on the smaller sizes for short people, but they completely dropped the ball IMO on the Large and XL frames, you know, for normal height riders.

    I would gladly give up 2 or 3 inches of standover from the current 26"+ to have a seat tube that extends to 20" or 21".

    On the Honzo, the ST is 20.25", with a slammed Reverb, I still have it about 5 inches of post out of the seat tube and it never gets in the way of descending or similar. I never once thought to myself that it should be even lower when slammed down.

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