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  1. #5801
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    I got a flat rear tire today so pretty good timing that I値l hopefully get my new rear tire in the mail tomorrow. Pinch and puncture flat at the same time, the sealant sprayed like crazy, I知 a little skeptical that it will hold though.

    I was running 1.8BAR in the rear and I知 100kg. Is that really low? I thought it was kind of standard rear tire pressure for tubeless.

  2. #5802
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnmz10 View Post
    How many grams would be considered lightweight for a mtb wheelset?
    I have Ibis 935 wheels with i9 Torch hubs. The set weighs 1,590 grams. Thats pretty damn light in my book. I'd say anything < 1,750 grams is light.
    Honzo CR Radtail | Ripmo | RLT Steel Groadie

  3. #5803
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    I got a flat rear tire today so pretty good timing that I値l hopefully get my new rear tire in the mail tomorrow. Pinch and puncture flat at the same time, the sealant sprayed like crazy, I知 a little skeptical that it will hold though.

    I was running 1.8BAR in the rear and I知 100kg. Is that really low? I thought it was kind of standard rear tire pressure for tubeless.
    Hi,
    I'm about 84 kg nekkid, so I guess ready to ride I'll be about 90kg. I usually run 2 bars in the rear of the Honzo. I have a Maxxis High Roller 2, 29x2.3, Dual Compound TR Exo on a WTB Frequency I23 rim. I haven't had any flats in almost 2 years with that setup.
    You're currently runnig the oem WTB tire on the rear, right? Which tire did you order now?

  4. #5804
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    Anyone using CushCore inserts for the R or F wheels on their honzo? I'm thinking about giving them a whirl...
    I run a cushcore in the rear, have done for almost a year. wouldnt go back, stupid amounts of grip and can confidently run 15psi no troubles ( its pretty wet and loose here)

    Havent used any other insert but cushcore looked like the best in my opinion, looked a little bit more like just some tube you jam inside your tire.

    Only downside is the weight, i think theyre like 125gm for a 29 or maybe 150? isnt much but if youre already running 1200g tires it adds up!

  5. #5805
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hi,
    I'm about 84 kg nekkid, so I guess ready to ride I'll be about 90kg. I usually run 2 bars in the rear of the Honzo. I have a Maxxis High Roller 2, 29x2.3, Dual Compound TR Exo on a WTB Frequency I23 rim. I haven't had any flats in almost 2 years with that setup.
    You're currently runnig the oem WTB tire on the rear, right? Which tire did you order now?
    Yes, running oem WTB Trail boss 29肺2.25. Ordered a DHF EXO 2.3.

  6. #5806
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    I have Vittoria Airliners front and rear on my Honzo. Fantastic!
    CADRE RACING

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    http://misfitpsycles.com/

  7. #5807
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    Now in full DHF mode.
    2.5 front and 2.3 rear.

  8. #5808
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    Honzo in action, kind of. Steep up and steep down. I biked with a colleague with mad skills, he did things both the way up and down that I didn稚 think was possible, so I now realize I need to practice my climbing.
    Last edited by yonsson; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:57 AM.

  9. #5809
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    Another question I'm having trouble finding the answer to: what adapters do I need or where so I find the correct adapter?
    Honzo ST
    SRAM Guide RS brakes
    180mm rotor front & rear

  10. #5810
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnmz10 View Post
    Another question I'm having trouble finding the answer to: what adapters do I need or where so I find the correct adapter?
    Honzo ST
    SRAM Guide RS brakes
    180mm rotor front & rear
    Just go to your local bike shop and bring your bike. They can help you.

    You haven't clearly explained what your current setup is so nobody here can answer your question. Either post specific details and pictures or just go to a bike shop.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  11. #5811
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    What specific details are needed? What beside the frame, brakes, and rotor size are needed? Thanks for help.

  12. #5812
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnmz10 View Post
    What specific details are needed? What beside the frame, brakes, and rotor size are needed? Thanks for help.
    Is it post mount or direct mount? Is it Sram or Shimano? Are you asking about the front or rear, they're mounted differently. Is it stock or modified?
    Last edited by *OneSpeed*; 08-17-2019 at 05:27 AM.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  13. #5813
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Is it post mount or direct mount? Is it Sram or Shimano? Are you asking about the front or rear, they're mounted differently. Is it stock or modified?

    Instead of asking stupid follow up questions you could at least answer my relevant questions and post a couple pictures. Or just go to your local bike shop like I said.

    People aren't very obliged to answer basic questions around here that can easily be answered by searching and doing a little reading. Be appreciative of knowledgable responses even if you don't understand fully.
    He provided all the info you're asking from him in his first post (honzo St always has IS2000, and he's looking for adapters for 180mm front and rear) . If you can't or don't want to help, you could at least not insult him with your arrogance.

  14. #5814
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnmz10 View Post
    Another question I'm having trouble finding the answer to: what adapters do I need or where so I find the correct adapter?
    Honzo ST
    SRAM Guide RS brakes
    180mm rotor front & rear

    I believe all the info you need is on the previous page. Good luck!

  15. #5815
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    Thank you!

  16. #5816
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    Those of you with the Steel variants, what did you do for mounting the rear caliper? I'm going to be running a 180mm rotor, but don't know what adapter to get since it's not the usual direct mount I have on the other bike.

    Or maybe I should just take a better look at the post 2 before mine.
    Looking at it I see how it's mounting it now.
    Haha.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  17. #5817
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    All the paint has been stripped.

    I've used a spray on clear coat that's normally used for car wheels. We'll see how that works out.
    The clear coat is a matte finish so it takes the shine out a bit. But it gives the raw metal a little more depth in look.

    These pictures are before applying the clear coat. By the time I finished spraying it on the sun had gone down.




  18. #5818
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    Does anybody know if there痴 a wire included if I order a Wolftooth dropper lever? I ordered one today, their website isn稚 helping.
    All the OneUp dropper levers are sold with wire.

  19. #5819
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Does anybody know if there痴 a wire included if I order a Wolftooth dropper lever? I ordered one today, their website isn稚 helping.
    All the OneUp dropper levers are sold with wire.
    I have 2 of them. Neither came with a cable.
    2020 Kona Unit
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  20. #5820
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    Finished (1st) build!

    https://forums.mtbr.com/attachment.p...&thumb=1&stc=1
    KONA Honzo ST - Medium - Battleship Gray/Lime
    SRAM X01/GX 1x12
    - X01 rear derailleur
    - GX Grip Shifter
    - GX cranks
    - GX Chain
    Wolf Tooth 32t Elliptical chainring
    SRAM Guide RS brakes
    SRAM Centerline 180mm rotors (F&R)
    Rockshox Revelation boost 15x110 fork
    Race Face NEXT Carbon handlebars 760mm
    Lizard Skin Northshore grips (gray)
    SDG Circuit Ti saddle (Black/Lime)
    SDG Tellis dropper seatpost
    HUNT XC Wide Wheelset
    Schwalbe Nobby Nic 29x2.35 front tire
    Schwalbe Racing Ralph 29.2.25 rear tire
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  21. #5821
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    All the paint has been stripped.

    I've used a spray on clear coat that's normally used for car wheels. We'll see how that works out.
    The clear coat is a matte finish so it takes the shine out a bit. But it gives the raw metal a little more depth in look.

    These pictures are before applying the clear coat. By the time I finished spraying it on the sun had gone down.



    This looks so rediculously good!

    Also along this route, I have kind of entertained the thought of doing a Mad Max build, stripping the paint and letting it get a bit rusty before protecting it. Make it look like a total junker but then just point it downhill and unleash it!

  22. #5822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autoclave_Armadillo View Post
    This looks so rediculously good!

    Also along this route, I have kind of entertained the thought of doing a Mad Max build, stripping the paint and letting it get a bit rusty before protecting it. Make it look like a total junker but then just point it downhill and unleash it!
    Thanks!

    I was mulling the idea of trying to do some sort of rust patina a la Rusty Bimmer styles but I realized I'm impatient and went straight to spraying on the anti-rust clearcoat.

    A friend suggested that I get some die cut Kona stickers and apply them before clearcoating then peel them off after to get the Kona lettering to rust out. That idea is definitely going to happen at some point.

  23. #5823
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    Installed the wolf tooth today, works like a charm.
    I also bought a mismatch adapter for the right side to eliminate the gear clamp (shimano breaks & SRAM gears). Do I need to dismantle the gear lever to remove the clamp? Seems like it. Any springs I need to be ready to catch when I dismantle it?

  24. #5824
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    A friend suggested that I get some die cut Kona stickers and apply them before clearcoating then peel them off after to get the Kona lettering to rust out. That idea is definitely going to happen at some point.
    That is awesome idea. I have always liked aged raw metal. Even better is Saint stuff will match well with the golden brazing material on the Honzo.

  25. #5825
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    Epic fail! The gear lever handlebars clamp is integrated in the shifter, so apparently it only works on more expensive gear shifters.

  26. #5826
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    It should work on GX and up shifters. No go on NX.

  27. #5827
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooledup View Post
    It should work on GX and up shifters. No go on NX.
    I know that, now.
    I値l keep it for the next bike, whenever that happens.

  28. #5828
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    This bike is awesome AF.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_9390.jpg

    The Honzo is absolutely glorious in all its simplicity.

    So. Much. Fun.
    2020 Kona Unit
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  29. #5829
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    Honzo dropper help.st

    Hey,I have a 2016 honzo st that's nearly done.just trying to sort out a dropper.what size drop are you mob running.im 170cm tall.id post a photo but can't work out how to post a pic.cheers legends

  30. #5830
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    Quote Originally Posted by freetibet View Post
    Hey,I have a 2016 honzo st that's nearly done.just trying to sort out a dropper.what size drop are you mob running.im 170cm tall.id post a photo but can't work out how to post a pic.cheers legends
    Bike size?

  31. #5831
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    Medium.the bend in the tube is sorta messing with my head.1st time build

  32. #5832
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    Quote Originally Posted by freetibet View Post
    Hey,I have a 2016 honzo st that's nearly done.just trying to sort out a dropper.what size drop are you mob running.im 170cm tall.id post a photo but can't work out how to post a pic.cheers legends
    Hey
    I'm running a 125mm reverb on my large 2016 Ti, will upgrade to a 160mm revive soon, there is enough room for that length.

    and a 125mm kind shock drop zone on my medium 2103 steel. This might take a 150, but not sure.

    I'm 179cm.
    I think a 150 Dropper would be max for your bike and size.

  33. #5833
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    I am 178 cms. I am using a 150mm Transfer in my 2019 large ST (pic posted above). Works beautifully. The bend in the seat tube does not impact things. You can see that I almost have the Transfer buried. If I recall correctly, there is no issue dropping it fully into the frame.
    2020 Kona Unit
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  34. #5834
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    This bike is awesome AF.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The Honzo is absolutely glorious in all its simplicity.

    So. Much. Fun.
    So! Sweet!


    I'm agonizing about building up my frame. If I do that I, unfortunately, cannot run my fs bike because I share main parts between the two frames.
    It'll probably be mid-October when I swap over the Honzo and get my hardtail thrashing going.

  35. #5835
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    So! Sweet!


    I'm agonizing about building up my frame. If I do that I, unfortunately, cannot run my fs bike because I share main parts between the two frames.
    It'll probably be mid-October when I swap over the Honzo and get my hardtail thrashing going.
    Thanks tons.

    I am blown away by this bike.

    I bought it to narrow the gap while riding with my daughter but I was shocked to discover that it's not all that much slower than my Druid. To be clear, I am riding pretty buff, flowy stuff with her (e.g.; Merlin View Loop at West Bragg) but nonetheless.

    I have also been very happy to discover that my body is still 100% intact with zero pain/fatigue post rides, and that I did not have to adjust my riding style at all for the hardtail (although I am still getting used to riding flats after decades of rocking clip-ins). Not really a question for this thread but WTF about launching off stuff on flats? I bet my feet often come a minimum of 12 inches off my pedals mid flight. I am very lucky I haven't yet landed nuts first on my top tube. I need to figure that out and then everything will be golden. Climbing with the flats is simple. Any suggestions about how to safely launch while riding flats would be appreciated.

    Back to the Honzo...

    After decades of screwing around with rear suspension and tens of thousands of dollars spent on different bikes trying to eliminate all the negatives of rear suspension, I believe I have finally found "the one" with the Druid. But my good God - the Honzo is perfectly capable and possibly even more fun for a lot of the terrain I am riding these days, even with my balls to the wall buddies, some of whom are beasts.

    Anyway, I could be perfectly happy with the Honzo being a one bike quiver. It obviously has its limits, but that's part of the fun and challenge. I feel a huge sense of accomplishment riding that bike, especially when I am with my buddies who are all hammering hard on full suspension bikes.

    As for you and your dilemma, just be happy that your riding season is likely a lot longer than mine. Soon I will be entering a deep freeze (although I will at least continue commuting on my rigid).

    Good luck with your ongoing Honzo project.

    PS - it took me forever, and almost cost me my relationship with my GF and daughter because of my raging, but I finally got that custom Ride Wrap kit installed (first on my Druid, then on the Honzo). The Druid was not so necessary, being a flat black carbon frame, but I sure am happy I persevered with the Honzo.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2865.jpg
    2020 Kona Unit
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    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
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  36. #5836
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    WTF about launching off stuff on flats?
    Hey mike, excellent that you like your awesome looking Honzo that much. I fully second that emotion. My Smuggler doesn't see any use these days - last time I rode it is almost 2 years ago.

    Regarding jumping with flats: you wanna use decent shoes with sticky soles (5.10s have been the best for me) and well shaped flats (i use RF Atlas and OneUps). With regards to the technique, you need to tilt your foot forward (toes down, heels up) and apply some backward pressure on the pedals, that will lock your foot onto the pedal and enable you to pull up your feet. Push into the fork to use the rebound for the launch and push your butt down a bit, then straighten your legs, pull up the bars and feet.

    Oh man my description sounds completely weird, sorry. That is at least the sequence of movements how I think I'm doing it if I break it down in my mind.

  37. #5837
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hey mike, awesome that you like your awesome looking Honzo that much. I fully second that emotion. My Smuggler doesn't see any use these days - last time I rode it is almost 2 years ago.

    Regarding jumping with flats: you wanna use decent shoes with sticky soles (5.10s have been the best for me) and well shaped flats (i use RF Atlas and OneUps). With regards to the technique, you need to tilt your foot forward (toes down, heels up) and apply some backward pressure on the pedals, that will lock your foot onto the pedal and enable you to pull up your feet. Push into the fork to use the rebound for the launch and push your butt down a bit, then straighten your legs, pull up the bars and feet.

    Oh man my description sounds completely weird, sorry. That is at least the sequence of movements how I think I'm doing it if I break it down in my mind.
    Perfect. I' m using some older Specialized Bennies flats that have the pins worn down a bit so I don't shred my legs. I will be replacing those with my Kona Wah Wah 2s very soon (maybe right now). I am wearing 5-10 Freerider Pros and Freeriders.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_9430.jpg

    Your suggested technique sounds great. I will try it!

    Thanks Rynee.
    2020 Kona Unit
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    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
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  38. #5838
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Perfect. I' m using some older Specialized Bennies flats that have the pins worn down a bit so I don't shred my legs. I will be replacing those with my Kona Wah Wah 2s very soon (maybe right now). I am wearing 5-10 Freerider Pros and Freeriders.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Your suggested technique sounds great. I will try it!

    Thanks Rynee.
    no need to thank me! those flats look wickedly good. as does the e-guitar in the background
    and yes, long pins are a (sometimes painful) must for flats. have you seen the chromag daggas? omg...
    good luck!

  39. #5839
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    deleted - duplicate post

  40. #5840
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    The Chromag Daggas comment...gone...

    I do love anything Chromag so I will check them out...

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_9431.jpg
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  41. #5841
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    The Chromag Daggas comment...gone...

    I do love anything Chromag so I will check them out...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    yeah sorry, my web connection playing tricks.

    I've edited my first post for the sake of clarity

    btw did you get an in person look at the unit x you mentioned in the other thread?

  42. #5842
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    yeah sorry, my web connection playing tricks.

    I've edited my first post for the sake of clarity

    btw did you get an in person look at the unit x you mentioned in the other thread?
    No. But I have owned enough Konas that I don't need to. I trust that it will be a masterpiece.

    I can't get my head around the SRAM components though. I am all about Shimano (and Fox) these days, and nothing else. That Unit X will be my winter commuter so after I rip and replace, it will be an expensive "unit" (pardon the pun) to be exposing to salt and grime.

    I need to decide what I am doing about the winter soon. Currently riding a rigid 2008 Fire Mountain that is ready to crumble from 12 years of corrosion and neglect.
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  43. #5843
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    No. But I have owned enough Konas that I don't need to. I trust that it will be a masterpiece.

    I can't get my head around the SRAM components though. I am all about Shimano (and Fox) these days, and nothing else. That Unit X will be my winter commuter so after I rip and replace, it will be an expensive "unit" (pardon the pun) to be exposing to salt and grime.

    I need to decide what I am doing about the winter soon. Currently riding a rigid 2008 Fire Mountain that is ready to crumble from 12 years of corrosion and neglect.
    yeah it looks amazing, that unit x. good point on the grit and salt. i kinda got inspired by your praise on the unit x and picked up a used 2018 unit for a great price a few weeks back. I'll use the stock 27+ wheels for winter commuting, and I've added a 29er wheelset with maxxis grifters for the other seasons. I'm sticking to single speed for that one. it's replacing a 2011 explosif which has been amazingly versatile in the last few years, but i wanted larger diameter tires for commuting and hauling the kids.

  44. #5844
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    yeah it looks amazing, that unit x. good point on the grit and salt. i kinda got inspired by your praise on the unit x and picked up a used 2018 unit for a great price a few weeks back. I'll use the stock 27+ wheels for winter commuting, and I've added a 29er wheelset with maxxis grifters for the other seasons. I'm sticking to single speed for that one. it's replacing a 2011 explosif which has been amazingly versatile in the last few years, but i wanted larger diameter tires for commuting and hauling the kids.
    WOW. Nice! My buddy has the 2018 Unit. Awesome bike.

    Maybe I should just buy the Unit myself. I am a little intimidated by the hills on my way home from work. I have to stand on my Paddy Wagon for about 18 minutes straight and not fall behind on cadence or I am f'ed. In the winter, that would be killer. Presumably the Unit would have significantly easier stock gearing though. Maybe I should just do it. My fitness has gone through the roof commuting on the Paddy Wagon.
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  45. #5845
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    WOW. Nice! My buddy has the 2018 Unit. Awesome bike.

    Maybe I should just buy the Unit myself. I am a little intimidated by the hills on my way home from work. I have to stand on my Paddy Wagon for about 18 minutes straight and not fall behind on cadence or I am f'ed. In the winter, that would be killer. Presumably the Unit would have significantly easier stock gearing though. Maybe I should just do it. My fitness has gone through the roof commuting on the Paddy Wagon.
    Ha that is so funny, I also have a paddy wagon (2010, geared 44x15) for the summer commute. depending on how satisfied i'll be with the unit, it might go on sale soon.
    the stock unit (18) has 32x18 gearing, which is useless for commuting. I'm trying 40x15 now with the 29er wheels, with the option to drop to 13 on the rear.
    on the explosif (26er), i used 40x13 for the warmer seasons with slicks, and 40x15 in winter with maxxis treadlites.

    but back on topic: here's the link to the chromag daggas: https://chromagbikes.com/collections...s/pedals-dagga

  46. #5846
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Ha that is so funny, I also have a paddy wagon (2010, geared 44x15) for the summer commute. depending on how satisfied i'll be with the unit, it might go on sale soon.
    the stock unit (18) has 32x18 gearing, which is useless for commuting. I'm trying 40x15 now with the 29er wheels, with the option to drop to 13 on the rear.
    on the explosif (26er), i used 40x13 for the warmer seasons with slicks, and 40x15 in winter with maxxis treadlites.

    but back on topic: here's the link to the chromag daggas: https://chromagbikes.com/collections...s/pedals-dagga
    Hahahaha! Not quite on point, but yeah, those things are weapons. Wow.

    Re the Honzo, I replaced the stock seat with a Specialized Power and bolted a Bandit underneath it to carry a tube, levers and a CO2 setup. Works wicked. With the Zee cage (which holds my bear spray) and the integrated tool, I can ride packless (carrying a bottle or two in my Sombrio Smuggle bibs if need be).

    LOVE the Honzo.
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  47. #5847
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    Is it common to have a lateral play in the dropper post, meaning I can turn the saddle slightly sideways? It痴 not due to the fastening, the play is in the dropper. Pretty annoying.
    It痴 the Trans x dropper that the bike came with.

  48. #5848
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Is it common to have a lateral play in the dropper post, meaning I can turn the saddle slightly sideways? It痴 not due to the fastening, the play is in the dropper. Pretty annoying.
    It痴 the Trans x dropper that the bike came with.
    yeah unfortunately, that is quite common. depends on the brand and model afaict. i have the same with my reverb and my dropzone as well. both have a tensioning ring around the seal where the telescopic post enters the lower tube, if i tighten these, it helps a bit, but it does not completely solve the issue.

  49. #5849
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    yeah unfortunately, that is quite common. depends on the brand and model afaict. i have the same with my reverb and my dropzone as well. both have a tensioning ring around the seal where the telescopic post enters the lower tube, if i tighten these, it helps a bit, but it does not completely solve the issue.
    OK, thanks! Then I値l just have to get used to it I guess.

  50. #5850
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    Warranty Issues

    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_3336.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_4442.jpg  


  51. #5851
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    Linskey repairs titanium frames, even those they didn't manufacutre.

    Solution: Have Kona warranty you a 2020 carbon frame, then hock it off to pay for the titanium repair!

  52. #5852
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    Quote Originally Posted by funfunn View Post
    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That痴 a strange break with the strut being pulled away from the top tube in the forward direction.

    It almost seems as though it couldn稚 happen unless you were running a post with too little insertion and the saddle/post was somehow pushed forward from the rear.

    It ought to be an easy repair regardless.


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  53. #5853
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    Anybody knows the weight of a kona big honzo cr frame?

  54. #5854
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffgicklhorn View Post
    Linskey repairs titanium frames, even those they didn't manufacutre.

    Solution: Have Kona warranty you a 2020 carbon frame, then hock it off to pay for the titanium repair!
    Or ask Kona if they can arrange the repair or pay for it.
    Sucky situation.

  55. #5855
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    Finally got around to taking a few pics. Bike has been running a few weeks now and did a local XC race and another trail ride and it climbs so much better than I would have thought.

    2020 st in XL

    GX eagle cassette
    GX derailleur
    Xo1 shifter
    Kmc 12 spd chain in full silver
    Dub descendant cranks
    Guide RE brakes with 200/180
    Old Kona bar
    Renthal stem
    Cane Creek z44/56 headset
    Odi rogue grips
    Crankbrothers Highline dropper 170mm
    2020 160mm Yari soon to be a Yarik after upgrading the damper with 42mm offset

    Old wtb wheels from the Process
    2.5 dhf
    2.3 aggressor

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  56. #5856
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    Quote Originally Posted by JN29 View Post
    Finally got around to taking a few pics....
    Wow that looks absolutely gorgeous!! Nice job!

    How do you like the Highline? I have a 160mm version at home, but not installed yet. I also have a revive and am trying to figure out, which of the two should be on the honzo, which sees more use, and which on the smuggler, which sees barely any use these days.
    I'm eager to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
    Last edited by Rynee; 09-08-2019 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Adding question

  57. #5857
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Wow that looks absolutely gorgeous!! Nice job!

    How do you like the Highline? I have a 160mm version at home, but not installed yet. I also have a revive and am trying to figure out, which of the two should be on the honzo, which sees more use, and which on the smuggler, which sees barely any use these days.
    I'm eager to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
    Not sure, the highline does return quite slow as in their design intent and it's mildly annoying but you deal with it. I do like the cable operation and the lever is nice also super easy to install. And actually at 170mm and slammed to the collar it's at my max height almost too tall at times. And I'm almost 6'4 on an XL

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  58. #5858
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    Jealous! My XL frame has been on back order for over a month. Supposed to be available by end of September.

  59. #5859
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    Quote Originally Posted by funfunn View Post
    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It seems that these cracks are the reason why they don't make the Honzo Ti anymore:
    https://www.rotorburn.com/forums/ind...0/post-3211471

  60. #5860
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    Still loving my Honzo. 400km so far since late April.

  61. #5861
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Jealous! My XL frame has been on back order for over a month. Supposed to be available by end of September.
    Right on. It's my first hardtail and it's sweet! You'll love how much fun it is.

    And I got mine through my LBS, they had one in stock and I snapped it up.

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  62. #5862
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    This has always been a concern of mine. My Ti frame has been solid thus far, but I had an issue with a first gen Honzo steel frame that came from the factory with an ovalized head tube, which caused play in the headset. I had it honed by my LBS and it worked fine after that, but Kona customer service failed miserably and refused to cover the cost or do anything to address it as a warranty claim. After that I refused to buy another Kona product. Of course that got blown out of the water when they released the Ti Honzo.

    I bought this as my forever hardtail, assuming if anything went wrong I'd be on my own. Hope you can get your frame fixed without too much hassle/cost. If you get the weld repaired let us know how it goes.

    Quote Originally Posted by funfunn View Post
    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  63. #5863
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    Suggestions?

    I have the opportunity to buy a 2018 Kona Honzo AL/DR from a local bike shop that has been renting it. The bike is from their trailhead location that encompasses mostly paved trails, gravel, and very tame green rated trails (so I imagine the bike hasn't been thrashed around). Although, I plan on thoroughly inspecting it tomorrow.

    I'm strongly considering this option because it's only $1100 CAD, it has the Honzo geometry that in 2020 is only offered only higher end models, and is 11 speed. I'd personally much prefer an 11 speed bike over a 12 speed. If you're not XC racing, it seems like a waste of money and weight in my opinion.

    I'm curious to know what others think of this opportunity. Does the price sound fair? Should I scrounge up the extra $700 for the 2020 Honzo? etc etc

  64. #5864
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    If the bike looks clean and the rims are true it doesn't sound like a bad deal. The big item for me when buying a demo bike is will you be eligible to register as the original owner so that a full warranty is available as if you were purchasing new. I've needed to warranty several items on bikes that get beat up riding in Moab and if there isn't a way to register as the original owner I'd hold off.

  65. #5865
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    Took the new Honz for a lap on the Luge. Climbed super well for having the massive fork on it but it rode surprisingly well going down. Almost tied my PR on the Process and let up a bit at times.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  66. #5866
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    If the bike looks clean and the rims are true it doesn't sound like a bad deal. The big item for me when buying a demo bike is will you be eligible to register as the original owner so that a full warranty is available as if you were purchasing new. I've needed to warranty several items on bikes that get beat up riding in Moab and if there isn't a way to register as the original owner I'd hold off.
    Thanks for the advice! I'm the original owner so there's no warranty concerns. Not only are the rims true, but even the tires are in near mint condition (lol soccer moms). I decided to replace the chain which was rusted, and have the mechanic set it up tubeless. Unfortunately the lowers on the fork (Recon RL) should be serviced, and the dropper isn't very smooth or reliable but that can wait until winter. I've saved so much money that I'm looking at getting a RockShox revelation or something similar. All in, tax included, this bike cost me $1350 CAD and I'm very happy with the purchase. A huge upgrade from my 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport.

    What forks are considered excellent value? The new Rockshox 35 seems intriguing. Where are my fellow Canadians buying forks from? Is it worth trying to negotiate a significant discount on fork purchase from the bike store because my current fork is in poor condition ( I don't have experience with this and don't want to be rude)?

  67. #5867
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    The 2019 and 20 Honzo AL frames are different from the AL DL frames. Look at the dropout area, there it is most obvious. And the BB standards and chainstay lengths differ as well: the AL has a 73mm threaded BB and 420mm CS, the AL DL has a pressfit BB and 415mm CS.
    Makes sense as the usual argument is that the PF BB makes it possible to attach the chainstays further apart from each other in the BB area, compared to the threaded BB - hence they can effectively bring the rear wheel closer to the BB with PF. I guess the rear tire clearance will still be greater for the AL DL compared to the AL, but who can confirm this?
    If you compare the two frames side by side, there are quite a few differences...this started with the MY 2019.
    Has anyone spent a significant amount of time on both frames (ideally AL vs AL)? I'd be curious to know which you preferred and why. I'm sure both have their benefits and deficits.

  68. #5868
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    Happy to help. My honzo is set up with a Pike, although a fox 34 would be great as well. I bumped my travel up to 140mm so that is the fork I shopped for, however I think 130 would be nice as well, and you could stay at 120mm for travel if you are on more smooth terrain. Not sure where you'll find the best deal but Jensonusa.com or competitivecyclist.com can give you some good deals if you chat or call them directly sometimes.

  69. #5869
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    https://youtu.be/NFZAJUZ7KhU

    Had a nice ride today!

    2019 AL with modifications:
    Handlebar: Renthal Carbon 30mm rise, Chromag grips.
    Fork: 140mm Pike 2020.
    Brakes: Shimano Zee + 203/180mm Shimano Ice rotors.
    Dropper lever: Wolftooth
    Tires: DHF 2.5/2.3 29.

  70. #5870
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    Few more rides down on the new steely boy and it's pretty damn fast and fun. It's fun stopping by people and them realizing you're riding harder than they are on a hardtail, gives me a little chuckle.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  71. #5871
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    2020 Big Honzo; big fun

    What can I say? I知 preaching to the choir...

    Here is my story.

    I took one ride on my bro痴 2017 Honzo 29er AL/DL and I knew that everything I had ever heard about the mythical Honzo hardtail was true. Sorted geometry, low standover, great descending, and still a hardtail so instant power to the wheels (I love out of saddle efforts).

    Over the past couple of months I sold my 2015 Rocky Mountain Altitude 730 and a 2011 Trek Superfly carbon hardtail. Had both bikes from new but most of my riding was the Rocky Mountain with the Trek quickly depreciating and collecting dust.

    Now with a family to support, I never quite took the same chances and drops as I did in my single years on former trail bikes. The Rocky was more bike than I needed and I致e always loved riding a hardtail for the instant power transfer and having to slice and carve your way through the lines rather than plow over everything on a fully.

    The replacement, a 2020 Big Honzo base.

    I went over and over on the regular 29 or the plus 27.5 tires debate, but ultimately the versatility of running both sizes a bit easier (slightly higher BB) won out. I plan to buy a 29er wheelset in the future.

    I have over 100 trail miles on the Big Honzo and I can honestly say that this is the most fun over ever had on a bike. Plus tires work really well for a little extra cushion. But I know I would have been happy on a 29er version. I will have a different wheelset so I can swap before too long.

    Sure, I went backwards on a few components. Fork is not quite as plush as I知 used to and it痴 a bit heavier than i would dream up. But I knew all of this going in and it doesn稚 seem to effect the fun factor. I am still having a blast railing turns, am faster on the descents, and am certain I am having more fun.

    1x12 Eagle has shifted perfectly. Low end shimano brakes do their job. Dropper hasn稚 given me fits. The bike just works. It痴 utilitarian. Has what you need and nothing you don稚. The Honzo is the Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 of the biking world.

    Anyways, hope you enjoy a few pics of my bone stock big honzo. Absolutely loving it!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-21d5bae9-8e25-462c-9773-c0233a6eaaea.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-c2eec0f1-4a53-4430-bc09-4020c4481370.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-ffe17dcf-5614-45f2-becb-e11778e29533.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-c04d1609-0f2f-433e-8f0d-426f77a89fde.jpg  

    2020 Kona Big Honzo
    2017 Cervelo C3 (setup for gravel)
    1971 Schwinn Varsity (kid hauler)

  72. #5872
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    Quote Originally Posted by funfunn View Post
    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hey,
    I have a large Ti frame, and am quite disconcerted by your experience. Pray tell, which length seatpost did you use, and how far was it inserted in the seat tube?
    Thanks mate.
    Cheers, Rynee

  73. #5873
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    Today was my first ride on my SS Ti Honzo in 1.5 years (injury). I set it up with a Fox 36 160 and it felt pretty good. I'd need to ride it again with the Fox 34 130 I had on it before to get a better idea of the difference since it's been so long, but my immediate concern was how it would climb and handle tight stuff. It handled it just fine. Raising the BB height didn't cause it to feel less nimble like I feared. Again, I'd need to try it in 130 form to get a true idea of the changes, but if anyone was curious, a 160mm form on the Honzo doesn't make it any less playful. The only other change I'd make if I had the option was to go with a 44mm offset fork, otherwise I think I'll stick with the 160 for a while.

  74. #5874
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    Yeah, me too. No problems at all on mine yet, and I hope to be riding it years into the future. But if I did crack it, and Kona offered a carbon or steel frame replacement (and that's it), I'd be pretty bummed. At least as far as retail goes, the ti is about 1g more (at least in Canada). They've always treated me well, so I'm hopeful they would try to make it a fair deal.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hey,
    I have a large Ti frame, and am quite disconcerted by your experience. Pray tell, which length seatpost did you use, and how far was it inserted in the seat tube?
    Thanks mate.
    Cheers, Rynee

  75. #5875
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    Picked up my ST frame today. Thought it would come with a headset but it didn't. What size do I need to get?

  76. #5876
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Picked up my ST frame today. Thought it would come with a headset but it didn't. What size do I need to get?
    On my 2019 Honzo ST I used:
    Cane Creek 40 ZS44/56 Tapered Headset

  77. #5877
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    Finally!

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_3775.jpg

    Been a year and a half since I've been able to ride this bike. Figured it was worth an update:

    2015 Ti Honzo size large, built up single speed. Lucky enough to be the first person on the west coast to take delivery of this frame 4 years ago. One of the first people in the US.

    Fox 36 160 fork. Had this fork laying around and figured I'd give it a shot. Alters handling a little bit compared to my previous 130. You need to weight the front a little more to get the tire to bite the same as when I had the 130. Otherwise still plenty playful and handles tight stuff with ease.

    Roval Traverse Carbon wheels (DT Swiss hubs)
    Maxxis DHF front (2.3), Purgatory rear (2.3)
    Easton Haven stem - 40mm
    Race Face Next carbon bar cut to 760
    Chris King headset
    XT M8000 brakes
    Lizard Skins Northshore grips
    180 mm rotors front and rear
    PNW Components dropper (external routing) - 150mm
    Specialized Phenom saddle
    SRAM XO crank - 32t
    XT pedals
    Absolute Black rear cog - 20t

    That's basically it. If the frame looks strange it's because I had it bead blasted than I hit it with a scotch brite pad. I always hated the paint and glossy finish. IMHO, this is how titanium should look.

    And if you're wondering why I have a knife strapped to my bike, it's for animals, not people. A couple years ago I was riding in remote BC and came across a hunter. He asked if I had any protection. I told him I had bear spray. He said, "That won't help against the wolves." WOLVES! So he offered one of his spare knives. I asked him what a knife would really help with, and he said, "If a wild animal is charging you, would you rather have a knife, or not have a knife." I took the knife and never ride without one.

  78. #5878
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Been a year and a half since I've been able to ride this bike. Figured it was worth an update:

    2015 Ti Honzo size large, built up single speed. Lucky enough to be the first person on the west coast to take delivery of this frame 4 years ago. One of the first people in the US.

    Fox 36 160 fork. Had this fork laying around and figured I'd give it a shot. Alters handling a little bit compared to my previous 130. You need to weight the front a little more to get the tire to bite the same as when I had the 130. Otherwise still plenty playful and handles tight stuff with ease.

    Roval Traverse Carbon wheels (DT Swiss hubs)
    Maxxis DHF front (2.3), Purgatory rear (2.3)
    Easton Haven stem - 40mm
    Race Face Next carbon bar cut to 760
    Chris King headset
    XT M8000 brakes
    Lizard Skins Northshore grips
    180 mm rotors front and rear
    PNW Components dropper (external routing) - 150mm
    Specialized Phenom saddle
    SRAM XO crank - 32t
    XT pedals
    Absolute Black rear cog - 20t

    That's basically it. If the frame looks strange it's because I had it bead blasted than I hit it with a scotch brite pad. I always hated the paint and glossy finish. IMHO, this is how titanium should look.

    And if you're wondering why I have a knife strapped to my bike, it's for animals, not people. A couple years ago I was riding in remote BC and came across a hunter. He asked if I had any protection. I told him I had bear spray. He said, "That won't help against the wolves." WOLVES! So he offered one of his spare knives. I asked him what a knife would really help with, and he said, "If a wild animal is charging you, would you rather have a knife, or not have a knife." I took the knife and never ride without one.
    The bead blast finish looks very similar to my paint stripped ST. Nice work!

    I rode my 2012 OG HonzoST with a 160mm Fox36 and, personally, found the handling to be not the best. I had been running the fork previously at 150mm and found it much better in the handling department.
    Currently, on my 2019 HonzoST, I have -2ー Works angleset with my 36 at 160mm and the handling is even better than on my 2012 with it at 150mm.

    I've been away for 2 weeks without being able to ride and I feel crazy for not riding. I had my first ride today since getting back and it was bliss!
    I hope your first time back riding after all that time off was fantastic!

  79. #5879
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    With the temps dropping and snow at higher elevations I figured it was hardtail time!
    I swapped the parts need from my Transition Sentinel to my 2019 HonzoST which I stripped the paint from over the summer.

    It's looking good!

    I have a few more things to sort out with the build/parts swap and then it'll be ride time! Hopefully everything goes to plan and I'll get a ride late morning or early afternoon tomorrow!

    Stoked with how it's looking!








  80. #5880
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    Thanks! Yeah, at 160 it felt a little twitchy on the first ride, but I made some adjustments to my riding style and it's felt OK since. So with the angle set decreasing head angle that much the front end doesn't feel floppy at all?

    Going to 150 with this fork is super easy. Just a matter of installing travel reducers. So the next time I service the fork I might lower it. But what I really wanna do is go with a reduced offset, so if I ever come across a 44mm offset steerer I'm gonna make the swap.

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    The bead blast finish looks very similar to my paint stripped ST. Nice work!

    I rode my 2012 OG HonzoST with a 160mm Fox36 and, personally, found the handling to be not the best. I had been running the fork previously at 150mm and found it much better in the handling department.
    Currently, on my 2019 HonzoST, I have -2ー Works angleset with my 36 at 160mm and the handling is even better than on my 2012 with it at 150mm.

    I've been away for 2 weeks without being able to ride and I feel crazy for not riding. I had my first ride today since getting back and it was bliss!
    I hope your first time back riding after all that time off was fantastic!

  81. #5881
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    @i.a.n. and @RideEverything awesome looking bikes, it's visible that you put lots of effort into altering the appearance of the frames. Good job well done!
    Good point with the knife, BTW... Jack London style 😁
    Regarding the angle set: I recently followed RideEverything's lead and built a cotic bfe 26 with a - 2ー angleset and a 160 fork (my AL honzo was stolen and I had a lot of nice 26"parts lying around). It rides really well, and I'm thinking about giving my honzo ti the same treatment. I had a chat with Andrew major about this, he said that he recently installed one in a friend's Ti honzo without issues (he'd previously been cautious about the insertion depth, and the fact that Ti might too tough for standard tools needed to ream the head tube if required).

  82. #5882
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    So with the angle set decreasing head angle that much the front end doesn't feel floppy at all?
    No, not really. Because of the angleset it doesn't raise the bar height too much nor does it slack the STA much either.

    The 160mm on my 2012 Honzo made the front end and BB noticeably taller and not in a good way. I was also quite far back over the rear wheel with my seat at climbing height. That caused the front end to really wander if I wasn't "on it" all the time while climbing. It was tiring on bigger rides with lots of elevation gain.
    My 2019 Honzo with the evolution of the geo tweaks doesn't have that wandering front end issue until it gets into the really steep sustained climbing. Even then I don't need to get super far forward like I had to on my 2012.

    It's funny what the difference of 10mm made in how my 2012 felt!

  83. #5883
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    @i.a.n. and @RideEverything awesome looking bikes, it's visible that you put lots of effort into altering the appearance of the frames. Good job well done!
    Good point with the knife, BTW... Jack London style
    Regarding the angle set: I recently followed RideEverything's lead and built a cotic bfe 26 with a - 2ー angleset and a 160 fork (my AL honzo was stolen and I had a lot of nice 26"parts lying around). It rides really well, and I'm thinking about giving my honzo ti the same treatment. I had a chat with Andrew major about this, he said that he recently installed one in a friend's Ti honzo without issues (he'd previously been cautious about the insertion depth, and the fact that Ti might too tough for standard tools needed to ream the head tube if required).
    Thanks!
    It was a fair bit of work and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I was just jealous of the limited 30 year anniversary Honzo. So, I made my own! Technically it is a 30 year anniversary frame as it's a 2019 as well! lol!

    It's crazy how the angleset changes a bike for the better. Granted I've only had an angleset on one bike so far. But your experience seems to indicate that my experience isn't just a one off!

  84. #5884
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    Since my Ti Honzo is my forever bike I'll be tinkering over time, so I'm sure an angle set is in my future. For some reason this bike is more fun to tweak and modify than any other bike I've owned.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    @i.a.n. and @RideEverything awesome looking bikes, it's visible that you put lots of effort into altering the appearance of the frames. Good job well done!
    Good point with the knife, BTW... Jack London style 😁
    Regarding the angle set: I recently followed RideEverything's lead and built a cotic bfe 26 with a - 2ー angleset and a 160 fork (my AL honzo was stolen and I had a lot of nice 26"parts lying around). It rides really well, and I'm thinking about giving my honzo ti the same treatment. I had a chat with Andrew major about this, he said that he recently installed one in a friend's Ti honzo without issues (he'd previously been cautious about the insertion depth, and the fact that Ti might too tough for standard tools needed to ream the head tube if required).

  85. #5885
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    Even 5mm can completely change how a bike feels. Amazing how little changes here and there make a big difference. I was worried my bike would wander on steep climbs with the 160, but it's surprisingly planted. What I did notice is that in corners, especially fast sweepers it just feels a little twitchy. So I need to weight the front more. But on climbs it's rock solid. That definitely wasn't what I was expecting.

    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    No, not really. Because of the angleset it doesn't raise the bar height too much nor does it slack the STA much either.

    The 160mm on my 2012 Honzo made the front end and BB noticeably taller and not in a good way. I was also quite far back over the rear wheel with my seat at climbing height. That caused the front end to really wander if I wasn't "on it" all the time while climbing. It was tiring on bigger rides with lots of elevation gain.
    My 2019 Honzo with the evolution of the geo tweaks doesn't have that wandering front end issue until it gets into the really steep sustained climbing. Even then I don't need to get super far forward like I had to on my 2012.

    It's funny what the difference of 10mm made in how my 2012 felt!

  86. #5886
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    I went out for my first Fall hardtail ride on my diy paint stripped skinny tubed steel bike cycle.
    It still rides like a hardtail. It beats you up if you like to plow. But, hot damn, is it fun!

    Here's an excessive amount of outdoor bike beauty shots.










  87. #5887
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I went out for my first Fall hardtail ride on my diy paint stripped skinny tubed steel bike cycle.
    It still rides like a hardtail. It beats you up if you like to plow. But, hot damn, is it fun!

    Here's an excessive amount of outdoor bike beauty shots.









    That turned out incredible.

    I have to be honest. I thought you were a little cray stripping that frame. Man - you have WAY better vision than me.

    INCREDIBLE.
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  88. #5888
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    I'm running CushCore front and back now. I was only running it in the rear wheel on my Sentinel.
    I think that, for me, I'll see the most benefit from using CushCore on the Honzo.

    Today was the first ride with the CushCore install front and back. I think I can run lower pressure than what I have at the moment.
    I did notice that there weren't any harsh rear wheel feeling spikes when riding through sharp jagged rocky sections. It still an HT so it wasn't like I felt like I was floating. But it definitely didn't feel like I was smashing the rims into things.
    I normally do feel the rims once or twice a ride on the HT. With the CushCore there were no rim dings. The down must be doing its job!

  89. #5889
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    That turned out incredible.

    I have to be honest. I thought you were a little cray stripping that frame. Man - you have WAY better vision than me.

    INCREDIBLE.
    Thanks!
    I'm stoked with how it turned out!

    I also had an unintended matchy-matchy with my bars. They are almost the same silver colour as the frame! I usually run those bars on my Sentinel and have the carbon Chromag BZA on the Honzo. As I was building it up I noticed the colour matching and went with that swap.

    I'm also kind of surprised with the finished colour of the frame. It came out with a much more silver colour than I anticipated. I thought it would be a little more "raw" with colour blemishes, if that makes sense.

  90. #5890
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Since my Ti Honzo is my forever bike I'll be tinkering over time, so I'm sure an angle set is in my future. For some reason this bike is more fun to tweak and modify than any other bike I've owned.
    Yeah I totally second that. Cannot stop improving mine either. Next step is updating the 29er wheelset to asym i29s with dhf 2.6 f and 2.5 r.
    Currently running 27x 2.8 minions since for this entire season, and I'm really enjoying the wide rubber. Can't wait to test the wide-is 29ers

  91. #5891
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thanks!
    It was a fair bit of work and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I was just jealous of the limited 30 year anniversary Honzo. So, I made my own! Technically it is a 30 year anniversary frame as it's a 2019 as well! lol!

    It's crazy how the angleset changes a bike for the better. Granted I've only had an angleset on one bike so far. But your experience seems to indicate that my experience isn't just a one off!
    Yeah, that upgrade with the angle set is totally recommendable. As I said, I followed your lead and took a few clues from Andrew majors article on the works components sets. So thank for blazing that trail 👍😁

    Very nice fall riding shots, thanks for sharing. I'm about to head out for a ride in 2hrs with my dad and my 6 year old nephew, three generations on konas 😁😁

  92. #5892
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thanks!
    I'm stoked with how it turned out!

    I also had an unintended matchy-matchy with my bars. They are almost the same silver colour as the frame! I usually run those bars on my Sentinel and have the carbon Chromag BZA on the Honzo. As I was building it up I noticed the colour matching and went with that swap.

    I'm also kind of surprised with the finished colour of the frame. It came out with a much more silver colour than I anticipated. I thought it would be a little more "raw" with colour blemishes, if that makes sense.
    I keep looking at those pics. Wow. I am blown away at how nice your bike looks.

    Is there a clear coat on it? Did you use Fluid Film, Frame Saver or some other rust inhibitor?

    I am going with lots of Chromag on my Unit build - Ranger stem, FU 40mm rise bar, Dolomite post, and Chromag seat collar, grips, pedals, spacers and top cap, lol. Plus I ordered 2 coffee mugs, the griz/black comparison water bottle, and some clothes. Love Chromag!

    Anyway, back to your Honzo - even your plastic head tube badge that you were not happy about looks rad AF. Outstanding!
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  93. #5893
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    I keep looking at those pics. Wow. I am blown away at how nice your bike looks.

    Is there a clear coat on it? Did you use Fluid Film, Frame Saver or some other rust inhibitor?

    I am going with lots of Chromag on my Unit build - Ranger stem, FU 40mm rise bar, Dolomite post, and Chromag seat collar, grips, pedals, spacers and top cap, lol. Plus I ordered 2 coffee mugs, the griz/black comparison water bottle, and some clothes. Love Chromag!

    Anyway, back to your Honzo - even your plastic head tube badge that you were not happy about looks rad AF. Outstanding!
    Again, thanks!!

    I used a rattle can matte finish clear coat meant for bare steel car rims. I figure that I can touch it up easily as it wears off.
    A friend who had done something similar a few years back said he used the same kind of clear coat and that it lasted about 2 years before needing a serious redo of the frame.

    Chromag HQ is just down the road from me and I find it really challenging not to buy things whenever I'm there or building up a new bike! Working as a bike coach gets me deals that helps take some of the sting out of the purchases!

    Yeah, the headtube badge has grown on me. It does look good on the stripped frame. It'll come down to how it wears. Plastic can sometimes not look too good after a few years out in the elements.

  94. #5894
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Again, thanks!!

    I used a rattle can matte finish clear coat meant for bare steel car rims. I figure that I can touch it up easily as it wears off.
    A friend who had done something similar a few years back said he used the same kind of clear coat and that it lasted about 2 years before needing a serious redo of the frame.

    Chromag HQ is just down the road from me and I find it really challenging not to buy things whenever I'm there or building up a new bike! Working as a bike coach gets me deals that helps take some of the sting out of the purchases!

    Yeah, the headtube badge has grown on me. It does look good on the stripped frame. It'll come down to how it wears. Plastic can sometimes not look too good after a few years out in the elements.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/general-disc...s-1118055.html
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  95. #5895
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    For those who are interested I figured I'd post a current spec build list here.



    2019 Honzo ST

    Frame - size XL (diy paint stripped frame)

    Fork - 2016 Fox 36 Float RC2 29 160mm, non-Boost, 51mm offset

    Headset - Works Components Angleset -2ー

    Stem - Chromag BZA 60mm, Chromag spacers 15mm

    Bars - Chromag OSX 35

    Grips - Sensus Meaty Paws

    Brakes - Shimano Saint, 200mm/180mm

    Cranks - Sram XO

    Drivetrain - Chainring Sram steel 28T DM, Cassette SunRace 50-11T 11spd, GX shifter + derailleur

    Pedals - Crank Bros Mallet DH

    Seatpost - 9point8 FallLine 175mm

    Saddle - Chromag Trailmaster II

    Wheels - Front custom built NOBL TR36 rim + e13 LG1; Rear Spank 359 Vibrocore

    Tires - Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.3 Snakeskin with CushCore


    Rider

    Height - 200cm (6'6")
    Weight - 106kg (235lbs)

    Terrain

    Whistler and Sea To Sky Corridor
    I ride almost everything in the S2S on the Honzo that I ride my full suspension bike with. I like the challenge of riding the same stuff on a hardtail.

  96. #5896
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    You're making me blush linking me in other forums!

    I posted a response there highlighting my research and the stuff I found out about yhe stripping steel frames and the "hysteria" of an unprotected raw frame.

    I'll admit I'm not fussed about rust. If it happens it happens. And, when it does I'll take care of it rather than ignore it. If I don't ignore the rust I shouldn't have the catastrophic rust eating holes in the frame that most of the mtb internet prognosticators fortell.
    'Cuz if I'm to believe the majority of what I've read when researching this paint stripping project any splash of water on my raw frame will immediately result in insanely large rust holes that will compromise the structural integrity of the frame!!

  97. #5897
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    You're making me blush linking me in other forums!

    I posted a response there highlighting my research and the stuff I found out about yhe stripping steel frames and the "hysteria" of an unprotected raw frame.

    I'll admit I'm not fussed about rust. If it happens it happens. And, when it does I'll take care of it rather than ignore it. If I don't ignore the rust I shouldn't have the catastrophic rust eating holes in the frame that most of the mtb internet prognosticators fortell.
    'Cuz if I'm to believe the majority of what I've read when researching this paint stripping project any splash of water on my raw frame will immediately result in insanely large rust holes that will compromise the structural integrity of the frame!!
    On the rust hysteria issue, I am building my Unit frame for daily Calgary commuting, which is brutal with the salt and extremes in temps with the Chinooks blasting through. Minus 30 to plus 30 in hours. Not quite, but almost. I have learned that all sorts of people ride Surlys in the same conditions here, so why not? I will try to maintain it a little bit with frequent salt rinses if I can.

    Anyway, back to your bike. I am blown away with how nice it turned out, and am delighted for you. I know you could never get excited about the warranty replacement green frame.
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  98. #5898
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    I've always meant to take a look at what my bikes geo ended up like with the mullet and 140mm fork. So just threw a side view photo in PS and measured, cellphone camera pincushion/field of view will throw it off some. But it's close.

    STA, actual. ~68* VS Stock bike is ~71* (this one's kind of hard to judge, starting up "after the bend" in the seat tube that allows for shorter stays which makes it very slack)

    STA Effective. 72.8* (this is using about the same seat height Kona is using to measure it 74.5)

    STA Effective at my seat height of 32.5". 72.6* (out of curiosity, it looks like at that seat height makes Kona's 74.5* measurement about 74.2-3*)

    STA Effective taking slammed forward seat into account. 73.8*

    HTA 65.8!!! winner

    BB height just under 12"

    So anyway, obviously STA is not ideal but on a hardtail it's workable.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-geo.jpg


    Thanks!

  99. #5899
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    Quote Originally Posted by stiingya View Post
    I've always meant to take a look at what my bikes geo ended up like with the mullet and 140mm fork. So just threw a side view photo in PS and measured, cellphone camera pincushion/field of view will throw it off some. But it's close.

    STA, actual. ~68* VS Stock bike is ~71* (this one's kind of hard to judge, starting up "after the bend" in the seat tube that allows for shorter stays which makes it very slack)

    STA Effective. 72.8* (this is using about the same seat height Kona is using to measure it 74.5)

    STA Effective at my seat height of 32.5". 72.6* (out of curiosity, it looks like at that seat height makes Kona's 74.5* measurement about 74.2-3*)

    STA Effective taking slammed forward seat into account. 73.8*

    HTA 65.8!!! winner

    BB height just under 12"

    So anyway, obviously STA is not ideal but on a hardtail it's workable.




    Thanks!
    Wow. That bike is awesome AF.

    The Honzo must be particularly photogenic because every single one that is being posted is a grand slam.

    Can you please advise where you got the ultra rad head tube badge? [edit: nvm]

    Love how the colours all come together on that build.

    Really really well done. Congrats.
    Last edited by mtnbkrmike; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:07 AM.
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  100. #5900
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    I just picked out my Honzo from autumn service after 500km of riding since I got it this spring. My only concern is the squeak that has started to occur from the bottom bracket area. According to the bike mechanic there痴 not much to do except for swapping the bottom bracket if it keeps marking sounds after today.

    So that has made me spend hours of googling bottom brackets and cranks.
    IF I need to swap the bottom bracket, then do you recommend an upgrade of some sorts or should I just swap BB?

    I知 currently on the stock SRAM powerspline 73mm BB (whatever that means) and NX cranks (11spd). Is it worth upgrading to the new DUB-standard? Worth upgrading to better cranks? I壇 like to keep with T28 front chainrings since that痴 what I知 used to.
    I don稚 mind spending some money if it will add ride quality.

    These standards drive me crazy by the way, I guess it痴 a threaded BB and not DUB standard but that痴 all I致e been able to figure out.

  101. #5901
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    These standards drive me crazy by the way, I guess it痴 a threaded BB and not DUB standard but that痴 all I致e been able to figure out.
    DUB isn't a "standard" it's a group of BB's from SRAM, there are DUB threaded & DUB press fit. SRAM is hoping to consolidate multiple system under one "easy" to use system...we'll see how that works out...

    The one you need (if you go DUB) is a 68/73 threaded BB for a boost rear axle (will come with spacers in the box as well).

    If you go DUB (which I'm SO glad I did), you'll also need a new crank set...but you can swap your 28T chainring right over if you want.

    I went DUB with a Eagle GX crankset (and also full GX Eagle drive train including the cassette, derailleur, chain and shifter), I had to swap my hub driver body, but it was the best money I've spent on my build.
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  102. #5902
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    OK, thanks!
    I get that swapping to Eagle gets me a larger gearing range (which I don稚 need since I stand up during technical climbs). Is there any other reason to upgrade to lighter cranks other than getting the weight of the complete bike down a few 100 grams? Would a switch to DUB and X01 cranks for example make a noticeable difference? Sturdier feel during high power pedaling for example...?

  103. #5903
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    OK, thanks!
    I get that swapping to Eagle gets me a larger gearing range (which I don稚 need since I stand up during technical climbs). Is there any other reason to upgrade to lighter cranks other than getting the weight of the complete bike down a few 100 grams? Would a switch to DUB and X01 cranks for example make a noticeable difference? Sturdier feel during high power pedaling for example...?
    For me it wasn't a matter of needing more range, it was more a matter of me wanting smoother shifting and better quality over the NX stuff...how much better is the quality? Depends on your perspective I suppose.

    As far as noticing the difference between your existing powerspline BB with NX cranks versus a DUB BB and a X01 crank?...I suspect you won't notice the difference at all, especially considering the rest of the drivetrain is still NX, the most appreciable difference I noticed was in the shifting, most of the magic happens at the cassette & derailleur.

    My advice, since your satisfied with the performance of your existing drivetrain, would be to buy the DUB BB, and then buy a NX Eagle crankset (you can use the Eagle cranks with any drivetrain), and just swap over your 28T ring (the crankset will likely come with a 32T ring).

    Something like this:
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...black-crankset

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...eaded-mtb-73mm
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  104. #5904
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    Thanks! Yeah, that痴 kind of what I was thinking. I値l only swap if it starts to creek again.
    Might upgrade to GX cranks or something like these:
    Edit:
    Made a shopping list: https://r2-bike.com/index.php?wlid=c...7944879e&jtl=w

  105. #5905
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    chain slap - Honzo ST

    Hi all!

    Have a new-ish (to me) 2018 Honzo ST...my first hardtail in a LONG time. Love it so far, it is a blast to ride and has really livened up some of my favorite trails!

    One question I had, being new again to the hardtail world. Is chain slap more common on hardtails? I hardly ever have this issue on my full-sus bikes but I have been getting a ton on the Honzo lately when riding downhill in rough terrain. Repeated hits will get the chain slapping like crazy and is driving me nuts. The first time it happened I thought the rear end was coming apart and had to pull over to make sure nothing was obviously loose in the rear.

    I need to wrap up the chainstay with an old tube still, the previous owner just had some packing tape wrapped around the chains, but was also wondering - will adjusting the chainstay length in the dropouts have an impact on this as well? I would think that shortening the chainstay length would in turn decrease chain tension a bit? I have never had a bike with adjustable dropouts, so I need to play around a bit with it. Right now I have them forward at 415mm which I really like so far.

    Thanks!

  106. #5906
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    Hi all!

    Have a new-ish (to me) 2018 Honzo ST...my first hardtail in a LONG time. Love it so far, it is a blast to ride and has really livened up some of my favorite trails!

    One question I had, being new again to the hardtail world. Is chain slap more common on hardtails? I hardly ever have this issue on my full-sus bikes but I have been getting a ton on the Honzo lately when riding downhill in rough terrain. Repeated hits will get the chain slapping like crazy and is driving me nuts. The first time it happened I thought the rear end was coming apart and had to pull over to make sure nothing was obviously loose in the rear.

    I need to wrap up the chainstay with an old tube still, the previous owner just had some packing tape wrapped around the chains, but was also wondering - will adjusting the chainstay length in the dropouts have an impact on this as well? I would think that shortening the chainstay length would in turn decrease chain tension a bit? I have never had a bike with adjustable dropouts, so I need to play around a bit with it. Right now I have them forward at 415mm which I really like so far.

    Thanks!
    It could be a few things that are causing a lot of chain slap noise.

    - the age of the derailleur (spring could be wearing)

    - age of the chain (chain stretches as it gets used resulting in slacker tension)

    - length of the chain (could be a few links too long)


    To minimize the noise:

    - wrap chainstay (you said you are going to do this. However depending on the wrap material and/or how worn the chain/derailleur is it may not do as much as you want to minimize the noise)

    - lengthen the CS (pulling the dropouts further out will tighten the chain; I have my dropouts at the longest possible)

    - take a few links out of the chain (I run my chain as short as possible. There's minimal room for the derailleur to move when it's in the biggest cog)

    - put a new chain on (I replace my chain 2 to 3 times a season because of wear and to minimize wear on the drivetrain. The added bonus is when I put a new chain on the bike it is really quiet for a while as the chain isn't stretched out to slap around)


    I hope some of this helps!

  107. #5907
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post

    I need to wrap up the chainstay with an old tube still, the previous owner just had some packing tape wrapped around the chains, but was also wondering - will adjusting the chainstay length in the dropouts have an impact on this as well? I would think that shortening the chainstay length would in turn decrease chain tension a bit? I have never had a bike with adjustable dropouts, so I need to play around a bit with it. Right now I have them forward at 415mm which I really like so far.

    Thanks!
    Hi,
    welcome to the tribe!
    Be aware that the chainstay length has an effect on the ride characteristics of the bike. You first should figure out your preferred CS length setting, then shorten the chain to the minimum length. There are lots of guides on this topic on the web, e.g. this vid from absoluteblack:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUybJs7uork
    As RideEverything said, a worn drivetrain (lengthened chain, worn derailleur clutch) will also have a negative effect on chain slap.
    Again, what I want to point out is: the chain length should be a function of the chainstay length, not the other way round. The chainstay length has an effect on the ride characteristics.
    Hope this helps. Good luck!

  108. #5908
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hi,
    welcome to the tribe!
    Be aware that the chainstay length has an effect on the ride characteristics of the bike. You first should figure out your preferred CS length setting, then shorten the chain to the minimum length. There are lots of guides on this topic on the web, e.g. this vid from absoluteblack:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUybJs7uork
    As RideEverything said, a worn drivetrain (lengthened chain, worn derailleur clutch) will also have a negative effect on chain slap.
    Again, what I want to point out is: the chain length should be a function of the chainstay length, not the other way round. The chainstay length has an effect on the ride characteristics.
    Hope this helps. Good luck!
    I second this. Determine how long you want your chain stays (I like mine short, RideEverything likes his long). THEN deal with your chain slap issue in one or more of the ways recommended above. The adjustable chain stay length should NOT (IMHO) be used for anything other than tweaking the ride characteristics of the bike.
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  109. #5909
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    I second this. Determine how long you want your chain stays (I like mine short, RideEverything likes his long). THEN deal with your chain slap issue in one or more of the ways recommended above. The adjustable chain stay length should NOT (IMHO) be used for anything other than tweaking the ride characteristics of the bike.
    Thanks for all the replies!

    On my other rides I have always ridden in the 425-435mm chainstay length and this has always felt fine, albeit on 27.5 wheels. On the Honzo at 415mm I so far really like the playfulness of the bike. For those of you who have pulled the dropouts back and lengthened the chainstays, how much of a difference have you noticed in ride quality? One thing I would think may be beneficial is a slightly more stable ride? Considering the steep (compared to what other bikes are at today) head angle, maybe this would be advantageous on the Honzo. Not sure, might have to try it out!

    Also, somewhat related: roughly how much tension should there be in the chain and is there any good way to measure it other than by feel? If I leave my CS at 415mm, may need to take a link or two out. Of note, I did check the chain wear and it is fine on my current GX chain.

    Thanks again!

  110. #5910
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    I have a question about crank arm length. It seems like the group sets all come with 175mm. There are no markings on my crank arms so I tried to measure them, I知 guessing they are 175mm. If I buy a new crankset separately should I go for 175mm or 170mm? I知 guessing 170mm means slightly better ground clearance but slightly less power output? Any advice?

  111. #5911
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    I have a question about crank arm length. It seems like the group sets all come with 175mm. There are no markings on my crank arms so I tried to measure them, I知 guessing they are 175mm. If I buy a new crankset separately should I go for 175mm or 170mm? I知 guessing 170mm means slightly better ground clearance but slightly less power output? Any advice?
    There are different sizes for sure, I've seen 165, 170 and 175 (I believe I've even seen 172.5 somewhere).

    I'm sure there is an exact science somewhere for this, but I think it's basically dependent on your height/inseam, with taller riders on 175 cranks.

    Many (but maybe not all) manufactures base their bikes crank lengths on frame size, with the larger frames obviously shipping with 175's

    I'm sure someone with WAY better info than me can guide you...but based on my VERY limited physics knowledge you'd think a longer crank arm would give you more mechanical advantage, and as such more output watts...but I bet there is a small rider out there on 165 cranks that would beg to differ.
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  112. #5912
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    Quote Originally Posted by BassistBiker View Post
    Many (but maybe not all) manufactures base their bikes crank lengths on frame size
    That sounds 100% logical! I didn稚 even think of that.

  113. #5913
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    @yonsson fwiw, the sram nx gxp cranks are available in 155, 165, 170 and 175. r2-bike lists them at 84.50 euro, which is the cheapest i found so far (i checked hibike, bike-components and bike24).
    on a side note though: do you have any experience with r2-bike?

  114. #5914
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    on a side note though: do you have any experience with r2-bike?
    Yes, I bought my Pike fork and my handlebars from them. No issues at all, very fast shipping. The same with bike components.de. Got my stuff within a week.

    Just waiting for the rain to stop pouring down, then I値l check if the creaking has stopped. Leaning towards DUB-BB and GX-cranks with additional Wolftooth T28 Eagle up front if it keeps creaking. That way I値l future-proof the drivetrain. So I can swap to the eagle system easier if I want to go that route later.

  115. #5915
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    Are you able to run the Honzo ST as 27.5+ (not the Big Honzo)...I asked Kona themselves and they said no but I swear I have seen some running plus tires before.

  116. #5916
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    Are you able to run the Honzo ST as 27.5+ (not the Big Honzo)...I asked Kona themselves and they said no but I swear I have seen some running plus tires before.
    Hi,
    can't speak for the ST, but it's a non-issue on the 2016 Ti. This is a 27x2.8 Minion DHF on a Praxis AL32 rim, dropouts all the way forward:



    And judging by the 4th picture here
    KONA BIKES | MTB | HONZO | Honzo ST
    where you see that the chainstay yoke is built similarly (if not identical) to the Ti version, it should be fine as well.
    On top of that, the current ST has boost rear, while that Ti still has 142x12.
    Pedal strikes might be an issue obviously depending on your fork travel. Mine is set up with a 150mm Fox 36, which provides plenty of clearance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20190330_184255.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20190330_184137.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20190519_135747.jpg  


  117. #5917
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    Crankset question - Waiting on a 2017 carbon Honzo frame to arrive and build. Does it need a boost or regular crankset?

  118. #5918
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    Quote Originally Posted by phorest View Post
    Crankset question - Waiting on a 2017 carbon Honzo frame to arrive and build. Does it need a boost or regular crankset?
    https://2017.konaworld.com/bikes.cfm
    148x12mm, so Boost.

  119. #5919
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    So, this happened on yesterday's ride!

    Photo taken moments before...


    ...this happened!




    It was a small root step/drop. Upon landing the crank arm snapped!
    The cranks are pretty old and have had a lot of hard riding put into them. If I was injured when it happened I'd likely feel way more upset.

  120. #5920
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    So, this happened on yesterday's ride!

    It was a small root step/drop. Upon landing the crank arm snapped!
    The cranks are pretty old and have had a lot of hard riding put into them. If I was injured when it happened I'd likely feel way more upset.
    what the heck man, good to hear that you're alright! that could have ended in a desastrous way easily...
    how did you make it home, looks like that happened in the middle of the woods!
    me thinks, a ti eewings crankset would make a nice and useful appearance on your awesome bike!!

  121. #5921
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    what the heck man, good to hear that you're alright! that could have ended in a desastrous way easily...
    how did you make it home, looks like that happened in the middle of the woods!
    me thinks, a ti eewings crankset would make a nice and useful appearance on your awesome bike!!
    It happened on our second loop. We had already ridden another trail at this point. The area where this trail is it was relatively easy to get out without too much trouble. It was mostly downhill back to my friend's place so only a little bit of one foot pedalling was required.
    Playing the "What If" game had me thinking of all the places that the crank arm could've failed had me being very thankful it happened where and how it did!

    I've just finished the swap over of cranks from my Sentinel. This now makes my list of parts needed to run both bikes simultaneously that much bigger!

    lol! The eewings would look good! But they are so far out of my price range they can't even be on a dream list!

  122. #5922
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    Yes, it has a boost rear end - so does that automatically mean the crankset needs to be boost as well? that's what I'm not clear on. Thanks

  123. #5923
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    Quote Originally Posted by phorest View Post
    Yes, it has a boost rear end - so does that automatically mean the crankset needs to be boost as well? that's what I'm not clear on. Thanks
    Yes, with a 148mm rear you'll need a boost crank set, not to be confused with "super boost".
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  124. #5924
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    So... took a ride last night, first ride after the autumn service.
    No creeks! Kind of irritating that I don稚 need to buy the new parts I致e been learning about the last days, that痴 probably a sign of some sort of illness.

  125. #5925
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    Fork Suggestions

    Looking to get a new fork on my 2018 Honzo ST. Bought it used, with a Rockshox SID 120mm fork on it but want to get something a little stiffer and with a little more travel.

    Read through a lot of these pages here and seems 140mm is a sweet spot many people are happy with? The Honzo is "specced" per Kona for 120mm travel and 51mm offset. From what I understand, increasing fork travel 10-20mm shouldn't be an issue typically. If you increase the travel would you prefer to keep the offset the same, or reduce offset slightly to 44 or 46mm? Honestly, I doubt I would even notice a difference personally, so it may be moot.

    Looking at Fox 34 vs. MRP Ribbon. MRP being local gives them a slight edge for me, all else being equal. Anyone run a ribbon on the honzo and have insight to share?

    Edit: And just to show her off a bit, here's a recent picture of us out on a date
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo.jpg

  126. #5926
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    I've got a 140mm pike with a 51mm offset and it feels great. I use the bike for all mountain riding along with XC racing and I don't feel the travel or offset negatively impact the bike under any circumstances except the slight slackening of the STA.

  127. #5927
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    If you are getting a new fork you should seriously consider a reduced offset (44mm). The 51mm offset is beyond outdated and goes back to the Gary Fisher days when bikes were short with steep head angles. A 44mm offset will help the bike climb better, track better in turns, increase stability on descents...basically make it better all around.

    It's not like your Honzo will feel bad with a 51mm offset, but it just feels better tucking the front axle in a bit more. I still don't know why companies are still shipping modern bikes with a 51mm offset fork. I personally wouldn't run any bike, whether XC, or enduro with a 51mm offset fork. If you have the option, try a 51 and 44mm offset fork on back to back rides and I'd bet you anything that you will prefer the 44.

    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    Looking to get a new fork on my 2018 Honzo ST. Bought it used, with a Rockshox SID 120mm fork on it but want to get something a little stiffer and with a little more travel.

    Read through a lot of these pages here and seems 140mm is a sweet spot many people are happy with? The Honzo is "specced" per Kona for 120mm travel and 51mm offset. From what I understand, increasing fork travel 10-20mm shouldn't be an issue typically. If you increase the travel would you prefer to keep the offset the same, or reduce offset slightly to 44 or 46mm? Honestly, I doubt I would even notice a difference personally, so it may be moot.

    Looking at Fox 34 vs. MRP Ribbon. MRP being local gives them a slight edge for me, all else being equal. Anyone run a ribbon on the honzo and have insight to share?

    Edit: And just to show her off a bit, here's a recent picture of us out on a date
    Click image for larger version. 

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  128. #5928
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    Well, after waiting nearly 2 months for my Hanzo ST frame to arrive, I finally picked it up and went to start building it. First thing I do is take the big peace of foam off the head tube and see the below. Yes that is the top of the head tube which, believe it or not, is supposed to be round. Well, Kona is a big company i'm sure they can send me a new frame. Nope! They say it's shipping damage even though both shop and I confirm that there is no damage to the box. So no replacement, just a suggestion to try and press a round piece of steel into it to open it back up. I'll get back to y'all and let you know if it works out, but not the best first experience with this company. if someone bought a $3500 carbon Process frame and there was a crack in the head tube when they open the box, is that person just SOL? I'm sure that Hanzo frame cost them $150, seems like a no brainier to replace.Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-20191023_175334.jpg

  129. #5929
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Oh I would be SO pissed.....

    That sucks, all of my dealings with Kona have been great...it sucks to hear about this.

    Back when I was an auto tech, I had a steel cone tool, that I used to make the openings in exhaust pipes that were damaged in shipping round again...I assume something similar could be used here, but I suspect there "could" be some paint chipping as you tap it back round again.

    Bummer about the damage, and good luck with the repair!
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  130. #5930
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    I had a similar problem 5 years ago with my steel Honzo. My head tube was slightly ovalized from the factory, but not nearly as bad as yours. When I contacted Kona I was basically told, "Not our problem". So I had to pay a shop to hone the head tube so the headset didn't have any play. Yours clearly is beyond a simple repair like mine, but I was pretty disappointed with Kona's customer service after that. I hope you can get things sorted out. For damage like that to be a cause from shipping it would have need to get tossed off a 5 story building onto the concrete. Kona needs to do the right thing in this case and get you a new frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Well, after waiting nearly 2 months for my Hanzo ST frame to arrive, I finally picked it up and went to start building it. First thing I do is take the big peace of foam off the head tube and see the below. Yes that is the top of the head tube which, believe it or not, is supposed to be round. Well, Kona is a big company i'm sure they can send me a new frame. Nope! They say it's shipping damage even though both shop and I confirm that there is no damage to the box. So no replacement, just a suggestion to try and press a round piece of steel into it to open it back up. I'll get back to y'all and let you know if it works out, but not the best first experience with this company. if someone bought a $3500 carbon Process frame and there was a crack in the head tube when they open the box, is that person just SOL? I'm sure that Hanzo frame cost them $150, seems like a no brainier to replace.Click image for larger version. 

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  131. #5931
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    I had a similar problem 5 years ago with my steel Honzo. My head tube was slightly ovalized from the factory, but not nearly as bad as yours. When I contacted Kona I was basically told, "Not our problem". So I had to pay a shop to hone the head tube so the headset didn't have any play. Yours clearly is beyond a simple repair like mine, but I was pretty disappointed with Kona's customer service after that. I hope you can get things sorted out. For damage like that to be a cause from shipping it would have need to get tossed off a 5 story building onto the concrete. Kona needs to do the right thing in this case and get you a new frame.

    If there is shipping damage, shouldn't they go after the courier? Either way, it should be rectified.

  132. #5932
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    I've got a 140mm pike with a 51mm offset and it feels great. I use the bike for all mountain riding along with XC racing and I don't feel the travel or offset negatively impact the bike under any circumstances except the slight slackening of the STA.
    Same for me. 140mm Pike Select 2020, 51mm offset. Ride all mountain and sometimes a little Enduro-inspired. Very happy with the setup and a vast improvement over the stock 120mm Recon RL. I知 wondering though if it痴 not possible to upgrade a SiD to more travel, seems like a cheaper option if it痴 possible.

    I have no experience with different offsets, but keep in mind Kona went for 51mm offset on the new 2020 Process 134 29 since the test riders liked it better than a shorter offset.

  133. #5933
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Same for me. 140mm Pike Select 2020, 51mm offset. Ride all mountain and sometimes a little Enduro-inspired. Very happy with the setup and a vast improvement over the stock 120mm Recon RL. I知 wondering though if it痴 not possible to upgrade a SiD to more travel, seems like a cheaper option if it痴 possible.

    I have no experience with different offsets, but keep in mind Kona went for 51mm offset on the new 2020 Process 134 29 since the test riders liked it better than a shorter offset.
    I did not know that about the 134...thanks for the info!

    I think the sid is maxed out at 120, but I very well could be wrong. Also wanted something with a little stiffer frame/stanchions...found a good deal on a MRP Ribbon and think I am going to give it a try! Adjustable 120-160mm w/ 51mm offset so I am going to start at 140 and if I don't like the feel I can lower to 120 or 130.

  134. #5934
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    I did not know that about the 134...thanks for the info!

    I think the sid is maxed out at 120, but I very well could be wrong. Also wanted something with a little stiffer frame/stanchions...found a good deal on a MRP Ribbon and think I am going to give it a try! Adjustable 120-160mm w/ 51mm offset so I am going to start at 140 and if I don't like the feel I can lower to 120 or 130.
    Sounds cool! I haven稚 regretted swapping to 140mm for a single second and I don稚 think I would have a problem going up to 160mm. I haven稚 experienced anything negative going to 140mm and the improvement is massive descending.

  135. #5935
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    Got tired of the 18 POE, so I have ordered a DT Swiss E 1700 30mm rear wheel + 54T ratchet upgrade.

  136. #5936
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    Well, I had the shop bend back out the head tube and moved on with it. It is what it is, just wanna ride.

    Bike is awesome. Got to take it out on my local trails Friday and had a blast. It's been 5 years since I've ridden a hard tail. Definitely caught my self off guard in a few instances trying to do stuff that wouldn't even phase me on my RIP. I do feel like it's making me think more which I'm not upset about. But man, there's nothing like stomping down on the pedals on a hard tail.
    Build:
    2019 Hanzo ST XL
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    Deity Cockpit/Pedals

    I'll Try to get a weight sometime soon. Probably 28-29
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-20191102_145956-2-.jpg

  137. #5937
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Great looking ride, with a sweet build spec!

    Enjoy that beauty!!
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  138. #5938
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    Considering building up a '19 or '20 Big Honzo ST with spare parts I have lying around. I'm intending to run it with 29x2.3 for the most part and potentially single speed for now, but want to keep the ability to swap my 27.5+ wheelset from my other bike, 2.8 Maxxis DHF/Rekon on Race Face ARC 40s. I'm assuming Big Honzo ST is the safe bet over regular Honzo ST for fitment while being able to run 29x2.3 (or 2.35/2.4 if needed)?

    Would I be able to use my old XT (FC-M760) 3x9 non boost crankset on this and if so what size of chainrings can I likely use? I have it setup 1x with a 30T at the moment.
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  139. #5939
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnmz10 View Post
    How many grams would be considered lightweight for a mtb wheelset?
    I have no idea. I just ordered a DT Swiss E 1700 rear wheel and 54 POE upgrade ratchet.
    The weight wasn稚 a concern, I just wanted the extra POE in an enduro package. The rear wheel is 1058g. It痴 a hardtail after all, and I didn稚 want to spend too much. If I want to save weight I should buy a light weight rear cassette.

  140. #5940
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    And I find it strange that my ninja google skills can稚 find the weight of the WTB i29 wheels that my Honzo came equipped with. I値l weigh both rear wheels when I make the swap. I知 curious to see if the Swiss wheel is lighter or not.

  141. #5941
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    This winter is going to drive me crazy. The sun already rises @8 and sets @16, and it will get worse.

  142. #5942
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post


    This winter is going to drive me crazy. The sun already rises @8 and sets @16, and it will get worse.

    Night riding, my friend. It's amazing.

  143. #5943
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    Quote Originally Posted by drpheta View Post
    Night riding, my friend. It's amazing.
    Yeah, I bet it is, but my wife won稚 let me out in the dark woods by myself since I crash sometimes. And my biking friends don稚 ride in the dark.

  144. #5944
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Yeah, I bet it is, but my wife won稚 let me out in the dark woods by myself since I crash sometimes. And my biking friends don稚 ride in the dark.
    Just get some good lights and a beacon app on your phone. It will let your wife know where you are and you can set it to send her a message if you stop moving for more than 5 or 10 minutes.

    If you're not in a remote area, riding alone isn't too much of a problem anyway. But, it may not be too hard to convince a couple friends to join you.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  145. #5945
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    Nice looking Honzo...... I got my Honzo frame last week with the exact same problem that you had. My head tube was damage during shipping probably. I live in Costa Rica so I dont know if it was the cuorier who damage the head tube. What I did was insert an old upper headset cup, put a piece of wood on top and use a hammer to bend the head tube. It worked perfectly. No damage to the paint. I think I will finish building my Honzo today. I'm using some new and old parts to build it.

  146. #5946
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Well, I had the shop bend back out the head tube and moved on with it. It is what it is, just wanna ride.

    Bike is awesome. Got to take it out on my local trails Friday and had a blast. It's been 5 years since I've ridden a hard tail. Definitely caught my self off guard in a few instances trying to do stuff that wouldn't even phase me on my RIP. I do feel like it's making me think more which I'm not upset about. But man, there's nothing like stomping down on the pedals on a hard tail.
    Build:
    2019 Hanzo ST XL
    Pike Ultimate 150 et42
    Bontrager Kovee Pro 30
    XX1 AXS
    G2 Ultimate 180/180
    Reverb AXS
    Minion DHF/ Agressor
    Deity Cockpit/Pedals

    I'll Try to get a weight sometime soon. Probably 28-29
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice looking Honzo...... I got my Honzo frame last week with the exact same problem that you had. My head tube was damage during shipping probably. I live in Costa Rica so I dont know if it was the cuorier who damage the head tube. What I did was insert an old upper headset cup, put a piece of wood on top and use a hammer to bend the head tube. It worked perfectly. No damage to the paint. I think I will finish building my Honzo today. I'm using some new and old parts to build it.

  147. #5947
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    2016 ST rust

    On my 2016 ST I have just recently noticed this rust building underneath the top tube. Has anyone else had issues with this? Any advice on treatments, sealants, etc?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-20191002_210142.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-20191002_210116.jpg  


  148. #5948
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    54 POE upgrade in da house.

  149. #5949
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post


    54 POE upgrade in da house.
    I have a set of M 1700 on my Honzo with a 32t ratchet. For the price they're a fantastic wheel that's light and stronger than a lot of more expensive ones out there. Even though the rim is pinned and welded at the seam, it's failure is never at the weld but rather an unlucky rock striking HARD.

    At that pricepoint, you're getting DT quality rims (E 532 rims on the E 1700 30, and M 462 on the M 1700 25), a 350 hub, competition spokes, and a stupid easy to maintain ratchet system.

    Keep your 18t ratchet in your bag/kit for emergency trail maintenance. In the off chance your 54t strips or explodes on the trail you'll still have a way to make it back home by riding and not walking.

  150. #5950
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwm5772 View Post
    On my 2016 ST I have just recently noticed this rust building underneath the top tube. Has anyone else had issues with this? Any advice on treatments, sealants, etc?
    You will need to sand/polish off all the rust, then paint with a self etching primer. Then regular paint.

    I'd recommend checking the frame over carefully and getting it all at once. Most likely there are other spots. Stripping the bike down to the bare frame may not be a bad idea. While you're at it I'd treat the inside of the frame with Frame Saver, or the like. That's also a lot easier with a bare frame.

    If you don't want to do it yourself you can have it blasted and powder coated. Pick any color you like. Then, afterwards, Frame Saver before reassembly.

    Preventative maintenance going forward, I wax my frames with carnauba car wax. Keeps the paint in good condition and helps keep rust away. Even on my fatbike that gets exposed to salt. No rust.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  151. #5951
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    Quote Originally Posted by drpheta View Post
    Keep your 18t ratchet in your bag/kit for emergency trail maintenance. In the off chance your 54t strips or explodes on the trail you'll still have a way to make it back home by riding and not walking.
    Haha! Ooookej. I知 living on the edge, I never bring more than my water bottle when I知 riding. But I sure will keep the 18T in case of emergencies.

    I知 looking forward to mounting the wheel on the bike. Couldn稚 find any weight info on the stock rear wheel so will try to weigh both the new and old kit.

  152. #5952
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    Old (WTB i29) VS new. Not concerned about weight, but saved 172g.

  153. #5953
    JB
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Well, after waiting nearly 2 months for my Hanzo ST frame to arrive, I finally picked it up and went to start building it. First thing I do is take the big peace of foam off the head tube and see the below. Yes that is the top of the head tube which, believe it or not, is supposed to be round. Well, Kona is a big company i'm sure they can send me a new frame. Nope! They say it's shipping damage even though both shop and I confirm that there is no damage to the box. So no replacement, just a suggestion to try and press a round piece of steel into it to open it back up. I'll get back to y'all and let you know if it works out, but not the best first experience with this company. if someone bought a $3500 carbon Process frame and there was a crack in the head tube when they open the box, is that person just SOL? I'm sure that Hanzo frame cost them $150, seems like a no brainier to replace.Click image for larger version. 

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    I had the exact same damage to my frame a few years ago. I got like $50 from UPS because the box was pretty beat up, but nothing from Bikeman. Had to sent it to Waltworks to get it fixed.

  154. #5954
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    Tested the new rear wheel yesterday. Clearly but not massively noticeable better response from pedaling.

  155. #5955
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    Getting there!

    2018 Honzo DL/AL frame
    XX1 drivetrain
    RS Pike RT3-set at 130mm
    Custom built wheels-- Bitex hubs laced to Spank Oozy 30mm rims!
    (on the way)

    Currently sits at 27.4lbs with all the accouterments!

    Now, I just need to ride it!

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_3755.jpg
    www.getbusylivin.org
    Salsa El Mariachi--SS
    Gone-
    Trek SuperFly FS 7
    Airborne Guardian
    Redline Monocog Flight

  156. #5956
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Tested the new rear wheel yesterday. Clearly but not massively noticeable better response from pedaling.
    Turn that DHR 2 around! It'll help more that 6oz lost 🤘

  157. #5957
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Turn that DHR 2 around! It'll help more that 6oz lost 🤘
    🤣🤣🤣

    half a lb off a wheel is no joke.

  158. #5958
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Turn that DHR 2 around! It'll help more that 6oz lost 🤘
    Haha! Total noob mistake. Thanks for noticing, that would have taken me a long time to notice.

  159. #5959
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-812ad84a-fd67-4c83-9861-98648dd8662d.jpeg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-a43d69fe-f97f-4fe4-b769-70d95d409961.jpeg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-8f0f1c3d-6dba-44d9-aa8c-dc11c71fdb76.jpeg

    2019 Honzo ST build inspired by my first real MTB, the 1997 GT Timberline FS.

    Pike Ultimate 130mm 42mm Offset

    TRP Quadiem

    Deity Contact Points

    GX Eagle

    KS Dropper

    King HS

    Hope with WTB rim up front, with a buddy痴 OEM wheel off a Process 29 AL/DL in the back.

    Rear wheel upgrade as time allows.

  160. #5960
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zach Morris View Post

    2019 Honzo ST build inspired by my first real MTB, the 1997 GT Timberline FS.

    Pike Ultimate 130mm 42mm Offset

    TRP Quadiem

    Deity Contact Points

    GX Eagle

    KS Dropper

    King HS

    Hope with WTB rim up front, with a buddy痴 OEM wheel off a Process 29 AL/DL in the back.

    Rear wheel upgrade as time allows.
    Impressive build, very nice composition. And a great idea with the tribute-design!

  161. #5961
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    So, who here is running 160mm forks? I know RideEverything is, anybody else?
    What could I expect In ride characteristics if I go from 140mm to 160mm?
    It痴 a pretty cheap thing to do, so might be a fun thing to fiddle with during the snowy month.

  162. #5962
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Impressive build, very nice composition. And a great idea with the tribute-design!
    Thanks- very fun piecing this one together.

    42mm offset Pike demands attention, but good form is rewarded by a ripping bike!

  163. #5963
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    So, who here is running 160mm forks? I know RideEverything is, anybody else?
    What could I expect In ride characteristics if I go from 140mm to 160mm?
    It痴 a pretty cheap thing to do, so might be a fun thing to fiddle with during the snowy month.
    I like it, I ride aggressive and I'm heavy so I'll take the extra cushion.
    But I do like that it slacked it out a bit and still getting used to the longer reach as this one is an XL.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  164. #5964
    Bnerd
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    What could I expect In ride characteristics if I go from 140mm to 160mm?
    I went from the original 120mm to 140mm in the first few weeks of riding my 2012 HonzoST and never looked back.
    A few years later I went to 150mm and liked the handling. My last summer on the 2012 frame I had the fork at 160mm and didn't like how the bike felt.

    At 160mm on the 2012 HonzoST the bike felt too tall both at the bars and BB. It made cornering feel not good. At all.
    It's funny what 10mm does to the feel of the bike. 150mm felt fine but that extra 10mm threw everything off. I run my bars quite high but on the 2012 it didn't feel right. Whereas on the 2019 the bars are about the same height but the bike feels great.

    On my 2019 HonzoST I'm running a -2ー angleset and my fork at 160mm. The angleset makes a world of difference with the fork at 160mm. That being said the 2019 frame is quite a bit longer in the FC than the 2012. I'm sure that also adds to difference in feel.

    The biggest differences in ride feel between frames running the fork at 160mm is with climbing and cornering.
    With the angleset I don't need to always be perched on the nose of the saddle whenever the trail starts to point up. And, cornering still feels snappy with the angleset.
    With regards to cornering I also run my dropouts at the longest setting. Yes, at the shortest setting it's snappier in corners but there are so many other negatives for me because I'm tall that it's not worth it to run them short. But, that's a whole other discussion, though!

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