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  1. #5801
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Perfect. I' m using some older Specialized Bennies flats that have the pins worn down a bit so I don't shred my legs. I will be replacing those with my Kona Wah Wah 2s very soon (maybe right now). I am wearing 5-10 Freerider Pros and Freeriders.

    Attachment 1276145

    Your suggested technique sounds great. I will try it!

    Thanks Rynee.
    no need to thank me! those flats look wickedly good. as does the e-guitar in the background
    and yes, long pins are a (sometimes painful) must for flats. have you seen the chromag daggas? omg...
    good luck!

  2. #5802
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    deleted - duplicate post

  3. #5803
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    The Chromag Daggas comment...gone...

    I do love anything Chromag so I will check them out...

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_9431.jpg
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  4. #5804
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    The Chromag Daggas comment...gone...

    I do love anything Chromag so I will check them out...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    yeah sorry, my web connection playing tricks.

    I've edited my first post for the sake of clarity

    btw did you get an in person look at the unit x you mentioned in the other thread?

  5. #5805
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    yeah sorry, my web connection playing tricks.

    I've edited my first post for the sake of clarity

    btw did you get an in person look at the unit x you mentioned in the other thread?
    No. But I have owned enough Konas that I don't need to. I trust that it will be a masterpiece.

    I can't get my head around the SRAM components though. I am all about Shimano (and Fox) these days, and nothing else. That Unit X will be my winter commuter so after I rip and replace, it will be an expensive "unit" (pardon the pun) to be exposing to salt and grime.

    I need to decide what I am doing about the winter soon. Currently riding a rigid 2008 Fire Mountain that is ready to crumble from 12 years of corrosion and neglect.
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  6. #5806
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    No. But I have owned enough Konas that I don't need to. I trust that it will be a masterpiece.

    I can't get my head around the SRAM components though. I am all about Shimano (and Fox) these days, and nothing else. That Unit X will be my winter commuter so after I rip and replace, it will be an expensive "unit" (pardon the pun) to be exposing to salt and grime.

    I need to decide what I am doing about the winter soon. Currently riding a rigid 2008 Fire Mountain that is ready to crumble from 12 years of corrosion and neglect.
    yeah it looks amazing, that unit x. good point on the grit and salt. i kinda got inspired by your praise on the unit x and picked up a used 2018 unit for a great price a few weeks back. I'll use the stock 27+ wheels for winter commuting, and I've added a 29er wheelset with maxxis grifters for the other seasons. I'm sticking to single speed for that one. it's replacing a 2011 explosif which has been amazingly versatile in the last few years, but i wanted larger diameter tires for commuting and hauling the kids.

  7. #5807
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    yeah it looks amazing, that unit x. good point on the grit and salt. i kinda got inspired by your praise on the unit x and picked up a used 2018 unit for a great price a few weeks back. I'll use the stock 27+ wheels for winter commuting, and I've added a 29er wheelset with maxxis grifters for the other seasons. I'm sticking to single speed for that one. it's replacing a 2011 explosif which has been amazingly versatile in the last few years, but i wanted larger diameter tires for commuting and hauling the kids.
    WOW. Nice! My buddy has the 2018 Unit. Awesome bike.

    Maybe I should just buy the Unit myself. I am a little intimidated by the hills on my way home from work. I have to stand on my Paddy Wagon for about 18 minutes straight and not fall behind on cadence or I am f'ed. In the winter, that would be killer. Presumably the Unit would have significantly easier stock gearing though. Maybe I should just do it. My fitness has gone through the roof commuting on the Paddy Wagon.
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  8. #5808
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    WOW. Nice! My buddy has the 2018 Unit. Awesome bike.

    Maybe I should just buy the Unit myself. I am a little intimidated by the hills on my way home from work. I have to stand on my Paddy Wagon for about 18 minutes straight and not fall behind on cadence or I am f'ed. In the winter, that would be killer. Presumably the Unit would have significantly easier stock gearing though. Maybe I should just do it. My fitness has gone through the roof commuting on the Paddy Wagon.
    Ha that is so funny, I also have a paddy wagon (2010, geared 44x15) for the summer commute. depending on how satisfied i'll be with the unit, it might go on sale soon.
    the stock unit (18) has 32x18 gearing, which is useless for commuting. I'm trying 40x15 now with the 29er wheels, with the option to drop to 13 on the rear.
    on the explosif (26er), i used 40x13 for the warmer seasons with slicks, and 40x15 in winter with maxxis treadlites.

    but back on topic: here's the link to the chromag daggas: https://chromagbikes.com/collections...s/pedals-dagga

  9. #5809
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Ha that is so funny, I also have a paddy wagon (2010, geared 44x15) for the summer commute. depending on how satisfied i'll be with the unit, it might go on sale soon.
    the stock unit (18) has 32x18 gearing, which is useless for commuting. I'm trying 40x15 now with the 29er wheels, with the option to drop to 13 on the rear.
    on the explosif (26er), i used 40x13 for the warmer seasons with slicks, and 40x15 in winter with maxxis treadlites.

    but back on topic: here's the link to the chromag daggas: https://chromagbikes.com/collections...s/pedals-dagga
    Hahahaha! Not quite on point, but yeah, those things are weapons. Wow.

    Re the Honzo, I replaced the stock seat with a Specialized Power and bolted a Bandit underneath it to carry a tube, levers and a CO2 setup. Works wicked. With the Zee cage (which holds my bear spray) and the integrated tool, I can ride packless (carrying a bottle or two in my Sombrio Smuggle bibs if need be).

    LOVE the Honzo.
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  10. #5810
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    Is it common to have a lateral play in the dropper post, meaning I can turn the saddle slightly sideways? Itís not due to the fastening, the play is in the dropper. Pretty annoying.
    Itís the Trans x dropper that the bike came with.

  11. #5811
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Is it common to have a lateral play in the dropper post, meaning I can turn the saddle slightly sideways? Itís not due to the fastening, the play is in the dropper. Pretty annoying.
    Itís the Trans x dropper that the bike came with.
    yeah unfortunately, that is quite common. depends on the brand and model afaict. i have the same with my reverb and my dropzone as well. both have a tensioning ring around the seal where the telescopic post enters the lower tube, if i tighten these, it helps a bit, but it does not completely solve the issue.

  12. #5812
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    yeah unfortunately, that is quite common. depends on the brand and model afaict. i have the same with my reverb and my dropzone as well. both have a tensioning ring around the seal where the telescopic post enters the lower tube, if i tighten these, it helps a bit, but it does not completely solve the issue.
    OK, thanks! Then Iíll just have to get used to it I guess.

  13. #5813
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    Warranty Issues

    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_3336.jpg
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  14. #5814
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    Linskey repairs titanium frames, even those they didn't manufacutre.

    Solution: Have Kona warranty you a 2020 carbon frame, then hock it off to pay for the titanium repair!

  15. #5815
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    Quote Originally Posted by funfunn View Post
    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thatís a strange break with the strut being pulled away from the top tube in the forward direction.

    It almost seems as though it couldnít happen unless you were running a post with too little insertion and the saddle/post was somehow pushed forward from the rear.

    It ought to be an easy repair regardless.


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  16. #5816
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    Anybody knows the weight of a kona big honzo cr frame?

  17. #5817
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffgicklhorn View Post
    Linskey repairs titanium frames, even those they didn't manufacutre.

    Solution: Have Kona warranty you a 2020 carbon frame, then hock it off to pay for the titanium repair!
    Or ask Kona if they can arrange the repair or pay for it.
    Sucky situation.

  18. #5818
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    Finally got around to taking a few pics. Bike has been running a few weeks now and did a local XC race and another trail ride and it climbs so much better than I would have thought.

    2020 st in XL

    GX eagle cassette
    GX derailleur
    Xo1 shifter
    Kmc 12 spd chain in full silver
    Dub descendant cranks
    Guide RE brakes with 200/180
    Old Kona bar
    Renthal stem
    Cane Creek z44/56 headset
    Odi rogue grips
    Crankbrothers Highline dropper 170mm
    2020 160mm Yari soon to be a Yarik after upgrading the damper with 42mm offset

    Old wtb wheels from the Process
    2.5 dhf
    2.3 aggressor

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  19. #5819
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    Quote Originally Posted by JN29 View Post
    Finally got around to taking a few pics....
    Wow that looks absolutely gorgeous!! Nice job!

    How do you like the Highline? I have a 160mm version at home, but not installed yet. I also have a revive and am trying to figure out, which of the two should be on the honzo, which sees more use, and which on the smuggler, which sees barely any use these days.
    I'm eager to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
    Last edited by Rynee; 09-08-2019 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Adding question

  20. #5820
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Wow that looks absolutely gorgeous!! Nice job!

    How do you like the Highline? I have a 160mm version at home, but not installed yet. I also have a revive and am trying to figure out, which of the two should be on the honzo, which sees more use, and which on the smuggler, which sees barely any use these days.
    I'm eager to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
    Not sure, the highline does return quite slow as in their design intent and it's mildly annoying but you deal with it. I do like the cable operation and the lever is nice also super easy to install. And actually at 170mm and slammed to the collar it's at my max height almost too tall at times. And I'm almost 6'4 on an XL

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  21. #5821
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    Jealous! My XL frame has been on back order for over a month. Supposed to be available by end of September.

  22. #5822
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    Quote Originally Posted by funfunn View Post
    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It seems that these cracks are the reason why they don't make the Honzo Ti anymore:
    https://www.rotorburn.com/forums/ind...0/post-3211471

  23. #5823
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    Still loving my Honzo. 400km so far since late April.

  24. #5824
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Jealous! My XL frame has been on back order for over a month. Supposed to be available by end of September.
    Right on. It's my first hardtail and it's sweet! You'll love how much fun it is.

    And I got mine through my LBS, they had one in stock and I snapped it up.

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  25. #5825
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    Suggestions?

    I have the opportunity to buy a 2018 Kona Honzo AL/DR from a local bike shop that has been renting it. The bike is from their trailhead location that encompasses mostly paved trails, gravel, and very tame green rated trails (so I imagine the bike hasn't been thrashed around). Although, I plan on thoroughly inspecting it tomorrow.

    I'm strongly considering this option because it's only $1100 CAD, it has the Honzo geometry that in 2020 is only offered only higher end models, and is 11 speed. I'd personally much prefer an 11 speed bike over a 12 speed. If you're not XC racing, it seems like a waste of money and weight in my opinion.

    I'm curious to know what others think of this opportunity. Does the price sound fair? Should I scrounge up the extra $700 for the 2020 Honzo? etc etc

  26. #5826
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    If the bike looks clean and the rims are true it doesn't sound like a bad deal. The big item for me when buying a demo bike is will you be eligible to register as the original owner so that a full warranty is available as if you were purchasing new. I've needed to warranty several items on bikes that get beat up riding in Moab and if there isn't a way to register as the original owner I'd hold off.

  27. #5827
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    Took the new Honz for a lap on the Luge. Climbed super well for having the massive fork on it but it rode surprisingly well going down. Almost tied my PR on the Process and let up a bit at times.

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  28. #5828
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    If the bike looks clean and the rims are true it doesn't sound like a bad deal. The big item for me when buying a demo bike is will you be eligible to register as the original owner so that a full warranty is available as if you were purchasing new. I've needed to warranty several items on bikes that get beat up riding in Moab and if there isn't a way to register as the original owner I'd hold off.
    Thanks for the advice! I'm the original owner so there's no warranty concerns. Not only are the rims true, but even the tires are in near mint condition (lol soccer moms). I decided to replace the chain which was rusted, and have the mechanic set it up tubeless. Unfortunately the lowers on the fork (Recon RL) should be serviced, and the dropper isn't very smooth or reliable but that can wait until winter. I've saved so much money that I'm looking at getting a RockShox revelation or something similar. All in, tax included, this bike cost me $1350 CAD and I'm very happy with the purchase. A huge upgrade from my 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport.

    What forks are considered excellent value? The new Rockshox 35 seems intriguing. Where are my fellow Canadians buying forks from? Is it worth trying to negotiate a significant discount on fork purchase from the bike store because my current fork is in poor condition ( I don't have experience with this and don't want to be rude)?

  29. #5829
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    The 2019 and 20 Honzo AL frames are different from the AL DL frames. Look at the dropout area, there it is most obvious. And the BB standards and chainstay lengths differ as well: the AL has a 73mm threaded BB and 420mm CS, the AL DL has a pressfit BB and 415mm CS.
    Makes sense as the usual argument is that the PF BB makes it possible to attach the chainstays further apart from each other in the BB area, compared to the threaded BB - hence they can effectively bring the rear wheel closer to the BB with PF. I guess the rear tire clearance will still be greater for the AL DL compared to the AL, but who can confirm this?
    If you compare the two frames side by side, there are quite a few differences...this started with the MY 2019.
    Has anyone spent a significant amount of time on both frames (ideally AL vs AL)? I'd be curious to know which you preferred and why. I'm sure both have their benefits and deficits.

  30. #5830
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    Happy to help. My honzo is set up with a Pike, although a fox 34 would be great as well. I bumped my travel up to 140mm so that is the fork I shopped for, however I think 130 would be nice as well, and you could stay at 120mm for travel if you are on more smooth terrain. Not sure where you'll find the best deal but Jensonusa.com or competitivecyclist.com can give you some good deals if you chat or call them directly sometimes.

  31. #5831
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    https://youtu.be/NFZAJUZ7KhU

    Had a nice ride today!

    2019 AL with modifications:
    Handlebar: Renthal Carbon 30mm rise, Chromag grips.
    Fork: 140mm Pike 2020.
    Brakes: Shimano Zee + 203/180mm Shimano Ice rotors.
    Dropper lever: Wolftooth
    Tires: DHF 2.5Ē/2.3Ē 29Ē.

  32. #5832
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    Few more rides down on the new steely boy and it's pretty damn fast and fun. It's fun stopping by people and them realizing you're riding harder than they are on a hardtail, gives me a little chuckle.

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  33. #5833
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    2020 Big Honzo; big fun

    What can I say? Iím preaching to the choir...

    Here is my story.

    I took one ride on my broís 2017 Honzo 29er AL/DL and I knew that everything I had ever heard about the mythical Honzo hardtail was true. Sorted geometry, low standover, great descending, and still a hardtail so instant power to the wheels (I love out of saddle efforts).

    Over the past couple of months I sold my 2015 Rocky Mountain Altitude 730 and a 2011 Trek Superfly carbon hardtail. Had both bikes from new but most of my riding was the Rocky Mountain with the Trek quickly depreciating and collecting dust.

    Now with a family to support, I never quite took the same chances and drops as I did in my single years on former trail bikes. The Rocky was more bike than I needed and Iíve always loved riding a hardtail for the instant power transfer and having to slice and carve your way through the lines rather than plow over everything on a fully.

    The replacement, a 2020 Big Honzo base.

    I went over and over on the regular 29 or the plus 27.5 tires debate, but ultimately the versatility of running both sizes a bit easier (slightly higher BB) won out. I plan to buy a 29er wheelset in the future.

    I have over 100 trail miles on the Big Honzo and I can honestly say that this is the most fun over ever had on a bike. Plus tires work really well for a little extra cushion. But I know I would have been happy on a 29er version. I will have a different wheelset so I can swap before too long.

    Sure, I went backwards on a few components. Fork is not quite as plush as Iím used to and itís a bit heavier than i would dream up. But I knew all of this going in and it doesnít seem to effect the fun factor. I am still having a blast railing turns, am faster on the descents, and am certain I am having more fun.

    1x12 Eagle has shifted perfectly. Low end shimano brakes do their job. Dropper hasnít given me fits. The bike just works. Itís utilitarian. Has what you need and nothing you donít. The Honzo is the Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 of the biking world.

    Anyways, hope you enjoy a few pics of my bone stock big honzo. Absolutely loving it!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-21d5bae9-8e25-462c-9773-c0233a6eaaea.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-c2eec0f1-4a53-4430-bc09-4020c4481370.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-ffe17dcf-5614-45f2-becb-e11778e29533.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-c04d1609-0f2f-433e-8f0d-426f77a89fde.jpg  

    2020 Kona Big Honzo
    2017 Cervelo C3 (setup for gravel)
    1971 Schwinn Varsity (kid hauler)

  34. #5834
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    Quote Originally Posted by funfunn View Post
    So it looks like Kona's Lifetime frame warranty failed me. The other day I found a crack on one of the welds of my titanium Kona Honzo. Since the TI version was a limited run that they released three years ago, Kona is unable to replace it because they have no more in stock.

    They did offer me a carbon, ST, or AL replacement, but those options all seem inferior since they're cheaper frames and not my preference. I sill have my old 2014 ST Honzo frame, and I'm likely going to switch my bike parts to that until I figure out what to do.

    I was hoping that Kona could help me out more on this

    Anyways, does anyone have a useful reference on a shop that can repair titanium frames? I expect that this may cost a lot of $$$ to repair but it's worth it to me instead of ditching Ti to go back to ST or getting the carbon frame.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hey,
    I have a large Ti frame, and am quite disconcerted by your experience. Pray tell, which length seatpost did you use, and how far was it inserted in the seat tube?
    Thanks mate.
    Cheers, Rynee

  35. #5835
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    Yeah, me too. No problems at all on mine yet, and I hope to be riding it years into the future. But if I did crack it, and Kona offered a carbon or steel frame replacement (and that's it), I'd be pretty bummed. At least as far as retail goes, the ti is about 1g more (at least in Canada). They've always treated me well, so I'm hopeful they would try to make it a fair deal.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hey,
    I have a large Ti frame, and am quite disconcerted by your experience. Pray tell, which length seatpost did you use, and how far was it inserted in the seat tube?
    Thanks mate.
    Cheers, Rynee

  36. #5836
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    Picked up my ST frame today. Thought it would come with a headset but it didn't. What size do I need to get?

  37. #5837
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Picked up my ST frame today. Thought it would come with a headset but it didn't. What size do I need to get?
    On my 2019 Honzo ST I used:
    Cane Creek 40 ZS44/56 Tapered Headset

  38. #5838
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Attachment 1285473

    Been a year and a half since I've been able to ride this bike. Figured it was worth an update:

    ē 2015 Ti Honzo size large, built up single speed. Lucky enough to be the first person on the west coast to take delivery of this frame 4 years ago. One of the first people in the US.

    ē Fox 36 160 fork. Had this fork laying around and figured I'd give it a shot. Alters handling a little bit compared to my previous 130. You need to weight the front a little more to get the tire to bite the same as when I had the 130. Otherwise still plenty playful and handles tight stuff with ease.

    ē Roval Traverse Carbon wheels (DT Swiss hubs)
    ē Maxxis DHF front (2.3), Purgatory rear (2.3)
    ē Easton Haven stem - 40mm
    ē Race Face Next carbon bar cut to 760
    ē Chris King headset
    ē XT M8000 brakes
    ē Lizard Skins Northshore grips
    ē 180 mm rotors front and rear
    ē PNW Components dropper (external routing) - 150mm
    ē Specialized Phenom saddle
    ē SRAM XO crank - 32t
    ē XT pedals
    ē Absolute Black rear cog - 20t

    That's basically it. If the frame looks strange it's because I had it bead blasted than I hit it with a scotch brite pad. I always hated the paint and glossy finish. IMHO, this is how titanium should look.

    And if you're wondering why I have a knife strapped to my bike, it's for animals, not people. A couple years ago I was riding in remote BC and came across a hunter. He asked if I had any protection. I told him I had bear spray. He said, "That won't help against the wolves." WOLVES! So he offered one of his spare knives. I asked him what a knife would really help with, and he said, "If a wild animal is charging you, would you rather have a knife, or not have a knife." I took the knife and never ride without one.
    The bead blast finish looks very similar to my paint stripped ST. Nice work!

    I rode my 2012 OG HonzoST with a 160mm Fox36 and, personally, found the handling to be not the best. I had been running the fork previously at 150mm and found it much better in the handling department.
    Currently, on my 2019 HonzoST, I have -2į Works angleset with my 36 at 160mm and the handling is even better than on my 2012 with it at 150mm.

    I've been away for 2 weeks without being able to ride and I feel crazy for not riding. I had my first ride today since getting back and it was bliss!
    I hope your first time back riding after all that time off was fantastic!

  39. #5839
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    With the temps dropping and snow at higher elevations I figured it was hardtail time!
    I swapped the parts need from my Transition Sentinel to my 2019 HonzoST which I stripped the paint from over the summer.

    It's looking good!

    I have a few more things to sort out with the build/parts swap and then it'll be ride time! Hopefully everything goes to plan and I'll get a ride late morning or early afternoon tomorrow!

    Stoked with how it's looking!








  40. #5840
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    @i.a.n. and @RideEverything awesome looking bikes, it's visible that you put lots of effort into altering the appearance of the frames. Good job well done!
    Good point with the knife, BTW... Jack London style 😁
    Regarding the angle set: I recently followed RideEverything's lead and built a cotic bfe 26 with a - 2į angleset and a 160 fork (my AL honzo was stolen and I had a lot of nice 26"parts lying around). It rides really well, and I'm thinking about giving my honzo ti the same treatment. I had a chat with Andrew major about this, he said that he recently installed one in a friend's Ti honzo without issues (he'd previously been cautious about the insertion depth, and the fact that Ti might too tough for standard tools needed to ream the head tube if required).

  41. #5841
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    So with the angle set decreasing head angle that much the front end doesn't feel floppy at all?
    No, not really. Because of the angleset it doesn't raise the bar height too much nor does it slack the STA much either.

    The 160mm on my 2012 Honzo made the front end and BB noticeably taller and not in a good way. I was also quite far back over the rear wheel with my seat at climbing height. That caused the front end to really wander if I wasn't "on it" all the time while climbing. It was tiring on bigger rides with lots of elevation gain.
    My 2019 Honzo with the evolution of the geo tweaks doesn't have that wandering front end issue until it gets into the really steep sustained climbing. Even then I don't need to get super far forward like I had to on my 2012.

    It's funny what the difference of 10mm made in how my 2012 felt!

  42. #5842
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    @i.a.n. and @RideEverything awesome looking bikes, it's visible that you put lots of effort into altering the appearance of the frames. Good job well done!
    Good point with the knife, BTW... Jack London style
    Regarding the angle set: I recently followed RideEverything's lead and built a cotic bfe 26 with a - 2į angleset and a 160 fork (my AL honzo was stolen and I had a lot of nice 26"parts lying around). It rides really well, and I'm thinking about giving my honzo ti the same treatment. I had a chat with Andrew major about this, he said that he recently installed one in a friend's Ti honzo without issues (he'd previously been cautious about the insertion depth, and the fact that Ti might too tough for standard tools needed to ream the head tube if required).
    Thanks!
    It was a fair bit of work and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I was just jealous of the limited 30 year anniversary Honzo. So, I made my own! Technically it is a 30 year anniversary frame as it's a 2019 as well! lol!

    It's crazy how the angleset changes a bike for the better. Granted I've only had an angleset on one bike so far. But your experience seems to indicate that my experience isn't just a one off!

  43. #5843
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    I went out for my first Fall hardtail ride on my diy paint stripped skinny tubed steel bike cycle.
    It still rides like a hardtail. It beats you up if you like to plow. But, hot damn, is it fun!

    Here's an excessive amount of outdoor bike beauty shots.










  44. #5844
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I went out for my first Fall hardtail ride on my diy paint stripped skinny tubed steel bike cycle.
    It still rides like a hardtail. It beats you up if you like to plow. But, hot damn, is it fun!

    Here's an excessive amount of outdoor bike beauty shots.









    That turned out incredible.

    I have to be honest. I thought you were a little cray stripping that frame. Man - you have WAY better vision than me.

    INCREDIBLE.
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  45. #5845
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    I'm running CushCore front and back now. I was only running it in the rear wheel on my Sentinel.
    I think that, for me, I'll see the most benefit from using CushCore on the Honzo.

    Today was the first ride with the CushCore install front and back. I think I can run lower pressure than what I have at the moment.
    I did notice that there weren't any harsh rear wheel feeling spikes when riding through sharp jagged rocky sections. It still an HT so it wasn't like I felt like I was floating. But it definitely didn't feel like I was smashing the rims into things.
    I normally do feel the rims once or twice a ride on the HT. With the CushCore there were no rim dings. The down must be doing its job!

  46. #5846
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    That turned out incredible.

    I have to be honest. I thought you were a little cray stripping that frame. Man - you have WAY better vision than me.

    INCREDIBLE.
    Thanks!
    I'm stoked with how it turned out!

    I also had an unintended matchy-matchy with my bars. They are almost the same silver colour as the frame! I usually run those bars on my Sentinel and have the carbon Chromag BZA on the Honzo. As I was building it up I noticed the colour matching and went with that swap.

    I'm also kind of surprised with the finished colour of the frame. It came out with a much more silver colour than I anticipated. I thought it would be a little more "raw" with colour blemishes, if that makes sense.

  47. #5847
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Since my Ti Honzo is my forever bike I'll be tinkering over time, so I'm sure an angle set is in my future. For some reason this bike is more fun to tweak and modify than any other bike I've owned.
    Yeah I totally second that. Cannot stop improving mine either. Next step is updating the 29er wheelset to asym i29s with dhf 2.6 f and 2.5 r.
    Currently running 27x 2.8 minions since for this entire season, and I'm really enjoying the wide rubber. Can't wait to test the wide-is 29ers

  48. #5848
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thanks!
    It was a fair bit of work and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I was just jealous of the limited 30 year anniversary Honzo. So, I made my own! Technically it is a 30 year anniversary frame as it's a 2019 as well! lol!

    It's crazy how the angleset changes a bike for the better. Granted I've only had an angleset on one bike so far. But your experience seems to indicate that my experience isn't just a one off!
    Yeah, that upgrade with the angle set is totally recommendable. As I said, I followed your lead and took a few clues from Andrew majors article on the works components sets. So thank for blazing that trail 👍😁

    Very nice fall riding shots, thanks for sharing. I'm about to head out for a ride in 2hrs with my dad and my 6 year old nephew, three generations on konas 😁😁

  49. #5849
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thanks!
    I'm stoked with how it turned out!

    I also had an unintended matchy-matchy with my bars. They are almost the same silver colour as the frame! I usually run those bars on my Sentinel and have the carbon Chromag BZA on the Honzo. As I was building it up I noticed the colour matching and went with that swap.

    I'm also kind of surprised with the finished colour of the frame. It came out with a much more silver colour than I anticipated. I thought it would be a little more "raw" with colour blemishes, if that makes sense.
    I keep looking at those pics. Wow. I am blown away at how nice your bike looks.

    Is there a clear coat on it? Did you use Fluid Film, Frame Saver or some other rust inhibitor?

    I am going with lots of Chromag on my Unit build - Ranger stem, FU 40mm rise bar, Dolomite post, and Chromag seat collar, grips, pedals, spacers and top cap, lol. Plus I ordered 2 coffee mugs, the griz/black comparison water bottle, and some clothes. Love Chromag!

    Anyway, back to your Honzo - even your plastic head tube badge that you were not happy about looks rad AF. Outstanding!
    2020 Kona Unit
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  50. #5850
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    I keep looking at those pics. Wow. I am blown away at how nice your bike looks.

    Is there a clear coat on it? Did you use Fluid Film, Frame Saver or some other rust inhibitor?

    I am going with lots of Chromag on my Unit build - Ranger stem, FU 40mm rise bar, Dolomite post, and Chromag seat collar, grips, pedals, spacers and top cap, lol. Plus I ordered 2 coffee mugs, the griz/black comparison water bottle, and some clothes. Love Chromag!

    Anyway, back to your Honzo - even your plastic head tube badge that you were not happy about looks rad AF. Outstanding!
    Again, thanks!!

    I used a rattle can matte finish clear coat meant for bare steel car rims. I figure that I can touch it up easily as it wears off.
    A friend who had done something similar a few years back said he used the same kind of clear coat and that it lasted about 2 years before needing a serious redo of the frame.

    Chromag HQ is just down the road from me and I find it really challenging not to buy things whenever I'm there or building up a new bike! Working as a bike coach gets me deals that helps take some of the sting out of the purchases!

    Yeah, the headtube badge has grown on me. It does look good on the stripped frame. It'll come down to how it wears. Plastic can sometimes not look too good after a few years out in the elements.

  51. #5851
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Again, thanks!!

    I used a rattle can matte finish clear coat meant for bare steel car rims. I figure that I can touch it up easily as it wears off.
    A friend who had done something similar a few years back said he used the same kind of clear coat and that it lasted about 2 years before needing a serious redo of the frame.

    Chromag HQ is just down the road from me and I find it really challenging not to buy things whenever I'm there or building up a new bike! Working as a bike coach gets me deals that helps take some of the sting out of the purchases!

    Yeah, the headtube badge has grown on me. It does look good on the stripped frame. It'll come down to how it wears. Plastic can sometimes not look too good after a few years out in the elements.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/general-disc...s-1118055.html
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  52. #5852
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    For those who are interested I figured I'd post a current spec build list here.



    2019 Honzo ST

    Frame - size XL (diy paint stripped frame)

    Fork - 2016 Fox 36 Float RC2 29 160mm, non-Boost, 51mm offset

    Headset - Works Components Angleset -2į

    Stem - Chromag BZA 60mm, Chromag spacers 15mm

    Bars - Chromag OSX 35

    Grips - Sensus Meaty Paws

    Brakes - Shimano Saint, 200mm/180mm

    Cranks - Sram XO

    Drivetrain - Chainring Sram steel 28T DM, Cassette SunRace 50-11T 11spd, GX shifter + derailleur

    Pedals - Crank Bros Mallet DH

    Seatpost - 9point8 FallLine 175mm

    Saddle - Chromag Trailmaster II

    Wheels - Front custom built NOBL TR36 rim + e13 LG1; Rear Spank 359 Vibrocore

    Tires - Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.3 Snakeskin with CushCore


    Rider

    Height - 200cm (6'6")
    Weight - 106kg (235lbs)

    Terrain

    Whistler and Sea To Sky Corridor
    I ride almost everything in the S2S on the Honzo that I ride my full suspension bike with. I like the challenge of riding the same stuff on a hardtail.

  53. #5853
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    You're making me blush linking me in other forums!

    I posted a response there highlighting my research and the stuff I found out about yhe stripping steel frames and the "hysteria" of an unprotected raw frame.

    I'll admit I'm not fussed about rust. If it happens it happens. And, when it does I'll take care of it rather than ignore it. If I don't ignore the rust I shouldn't have the catastrophic rust eating holes in the frame that most of the mtb internet prognosticators fortell.
    'Cuz if I'm to believe the majority of what I've read when researching this paint stripping project any splash of water on my raw frame will immediately result in insanely large rust holes that will compromise the structural integrity of the frame!!

  54. #5854
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    You're making me blush linking me in other forums!

    I posted a response there highlighting my research and the stuff I found out about yhe stripping steel frames and the "hysteria" of an unprotected raw frame.

    I'll admit I'm not fussed about rust. If it happens it happens. And, when it does I'll take care of it rather than ignore it. If I don't ignore the rust I shouldn't have the catastrophic rust eating holes in the frame that most of the mtb internet prognosticators fortell.
    'Cuz if I'm to believe the majority of what I've read when researching this paint stripping project any splash of water on my raw frame will immediately result in insanely large rust holes that will compromise the structural integrity of the frame!!
    On the rust hysteria issue, I am building my Unit frame for daily Calgary commuting, which is brutal with the salt and extremes in temps with the Chinooks blasting through. Minus 30 to plus 30 in hours. Not quite, but almost. I have learned that all sorts of people ride Surlys in the same conditions here, so why not? I will try to maintain it a little bit with frequent salt rinses if I can.

    Anyway, back to your bike. I am blown away with how nice it turned out, and am delighted for you. I know you could never get excited about the warranty replacement green frame.
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  55. #5855
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    I've always meant to take a look at what my bikes geo ended up like with the mullet and 140mm fork. So just threw a side view photo in PS and measured, cellphone camera pincushion/field of view will throw it off some. But it's close.

    STA, actual. ~68* VS Stock bike is ~71* (this one's kind of hard to judge, starting up "after the bend" in the seat tube that allows for shorter stays which makes it very slack)

    STA Effective. 72.8* (this is using about the same seat height Kona is using to measure it 74.5)

    STA Effective at my seat height of 32.5". 72.6* (out of curiosity, it looks like at that seat height makes Kona's 74.5* measurement about 74.2-3*)

    STA Effective taking slammed forward seat into account. 73.8*

    HTA 65.8!!! winner

    BB height just under 12"

    So anyway, obviously STA is not ideal but on a hardtail it's workable.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-geo.jpg


    Thanks!

  56. #5856
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    Quote Originally Posted by stiingya View Post
    I've always meant to take a look at what my bikes geo ended up like with the mullet and 140mm fork. So just threw a side view photo in PS and measured, cellphone camera pincushion/field of view will throw it off some. But it's close.

    STA, actual. ~68* VS Stock bike is ~71* (this one's kind of hard to judge, starting up "after the bend" in the seat tube that allows for shorter stays which makes it very slack)

    STA Effective. 72.8* (this is using about the same seat height Kona is using to measure it 74.5)

    STA Effective at my seat height of 32.5". 72.6* (out of curiosity, it looks like at that seat height makes Kona's 74.5* measurement about 74.2-3*)

    STA Effective taking slammed forward seat into account. 73.8*

    HTA 65.8!!! winner

    BB height just under 12"

    So anyway, obviously STA is not ideal but on a hardtail it's workable.




    Thanks!
    Wow. That bike is awesome AF.

    The Honzo must be particularly photogenic because every single one that is being posted is a grand slam.

    Can you please advise where you got the ultra rad head tube badge? [edit: nvm]

    Love how the colours all come together on that build.

    Really really well done. Congrats.
    Last edited by mtnbkrmike; 10-13-2019 at 07:07 AM.
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  57. #5857
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    I just picked out my Honzo from autumn service after 500km of riding since I got it this spring. My only concern is the squeak that has started to occur from the bottom bracket area. According to the bike mechanic thereís not much to do except for swapping the bottom bracket if it keeps marking sounds after today.

    So that has made me spend hours of googling bottom brackets and cranks.
    IF I need to swap the bottom bracket, then do you recommend an upgrade of some sorts or should I just swap BB?

    Iím currently on the stock SRAM powerspline 73mm BB (whatever that means) and NX cranks (11spd). Is it worth upgrading to the new DUB-standard? Worth upgrading to better cranks? Iíd like to keep with T28 front chainrings since thatís what Iím used to.
    I donít mind spending some money if it will add ride quality.

    These standards drive me crazy by the way, I guess itís a threaded BB and not DUB standard but thatís all Iíve been able to figure out.

  58. #5858
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    These standards drive me crazy by the way, I guess itís a threaded BB and not DUB standard but thatís all Iíve been able to figure out.
    DUB isn't a "standard" it's a group of BB's from SRAM, there are DUB threaded & DUB press fit. SRAM is hoping to consolidate multiple system under one "easy" to use system...we'll see how that works out...

    The one you need (if you go DUB) is a 68/73 threaded BB for a boost rear axle (will come with spacers in the box as well).

    If you go DUB (which I'm SO glad I did), you'll also need a new crank set...but you can swap your 28T chainring right over if you want.

    I went DUB with a Eagle GX crankset (and also full GX Eagle drive train including the cassette, derailleur, chain and shifter), I had to swap my hub driver body, but it was the best money I've spent on my build.
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  59. #5859
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    OK, thanks!
    I get that swapping to Eagle gets me a larger gearing range (which I donít need since I stand up during technical climbs). Is there any other reason to upgrade to lighter cranks other than getting the weight of the complete bike down a few 100 grams? Would a switch to DUB and X01 cranks for example make a noticeable difference? Sturdier feel during high power pedaling for example...?

  60. #5860
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    OK, thanks!
    I get that swapping to Eagle gets me a larger gearing range (which I donít need since I stand up during technical climbs). Is there any other reason to upgrade to lighter cranks other than getting the weight of the complete bike down a few 100 grams? Would a switch to DUB and X01 cranks for example make a noticeable difference? Sturdier feel during high power pedaling for example...?
    For me it wasn't a matter of needing more range, it was more a matter of me wanting smoother shifting and better quality over the NX stuff...how much better is the quality? Depends on your perspective I suppose.

    As far as noticing the difference between your existing powerspline BB with NX cranks versus a DUB BB and a X01 crank?...I suspect you won't notice the difference at all, especially considering the rest of the drivetrain is still NX, the most appreciable difference I noticed was in the shifting, most of the magic happens at the cassette & derailleur.

    My advice, since your satisfied with the performance of your existing drivetrain, would be to buy the DUB BB, and then buy a NX Eagle crankset (you can use the Eagle cranks with any drivetrain), and just swap over your 28T ring (the crankset will likely come with a 32T ring).

    Something like this:
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...black-crankset

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...eaded-mtb-73mm
    19 Kona Honzo ST (King of the hill)
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  61. #5861
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    Thanks! Yeah, thatís kind of what I was thinking. Iíll only swap if it starts to creek again.
    Might upgrade to GX cranks or something like these:
    Edit:
    Made a shopping list: https://r2-bike.com/index.php?wlid=c...7944879e&jtl=w

  62. #5862
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    chain slap - Honzo ST

    Hi all!

    Have a new-ish (to me) 2018 Honzo ST...my first hardtail in a LONG time. Love it so far, it is a blast to ride and has really livened up some of my favorite trails!

    One question I had, being new again to the hardtail world. Is chain slap more common on hardtails? I hardly ever have this issue on my full-sus bikes but I have been getting a ton on the Honzo lately when riding downhill in rough terrain. Repeated hits will get the chain slapping like crazy and is driving me nuts. The first time it happened I thought the rear end was coming apart and had to pull over to make sure nothing was obviously loose in the rear.

    I need to wrap up the chainstay with an old tube still, the previous owner just had some packing tape wrapped around the chains, but was also wondering - will adjusting the chainstay length in the dropouts have an impact on this as well? I would think that shortening the chainstay length would in turn decrease chain tension a bit? I have never had a bike with adjustable dropouts, so I need to play around a bit with it. Right now I have them forward at 415mm which I really like so far.

    Thanks!

  63. #5863
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    Hi all!

    Have a new-ish (to me) 2018 Honzo ST...my first hardtail in a LONG time. Love it so far, it is a blast to ride and has really livened up some of my favorite trails!

    One question I had, being new again to the hardtail world. Is chain slap more common on hardtails? I hardly ever have this issue on my full-sus bikes but I have been getting a ton on the Honzo lately when riding downhill in rough terrain. Repeated hits will get the chain slapping like crazy and is driving me nuts. The first time it happened I thought the rear end was coming apart and had to pull over to make sure nothing was obviously loose in the rear.

    I need to wrap up the chainstay with an old tube still, the previous owner just had some packing tape wrapped around the chains, but was also wondering - will adjusting the chainstay length in the dropouts have an impact on this as well? I would think that shortening the chainstay length would in turn decrease chain tension a bit? I have never had a bike with adjustable dropouts, so I need to play around a bit with it. Right now I have them forward at 415mm which I really like so far.

    Thanks!
    It could be a few things that are causing a lot of chain slap noise.

    - the age of the derailleur (spring could be wearing)

    - age of the chain (chain stretches as it gets used resulting in slacker tension)

    - length of the chain (could be a few links too long)


    To minimize the noise:

    - wrap chainstay (you said you are going to do this. However depending on the wrap material and/or how worn the chain/derailleur is it may not do as much as you want to minimize the noise)

    - lengthen the CS (pulling the dropouts further out will tighten the chain; I have my dropouts at the longest possible)

    - take a few links out of the chain (I run my chain as short as possible. There's minimal room for the derailleur to move when it's in the biggest cog)

    - put a new chain on (I replace my chain 2 to 3 times a season because of wear and to minimize wear on the drivetrain. The added bonus is when I put a new chain on the bike it is really quiet for a while as the chain isn't stretched out to slap around)


    I hope some of this helps!

  64. #5864
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post

    I need to wrap up the chainstay with an old tube still, the previous owner just had some packing tape wrapped around the chains, but was also wondering - will adjusting the chainstay length in the dropouts have an impact on this as well? I would think that shortening the chainstay length would in turn decrease chain tension a bit? I have never had a bike with adjustable dropouts, so I need to play around a bit with it. Right now I have them forward at 415mm which I really like so far.

    Thanks!
    Hi,
    welcome to the tribe!
    Be aware that the chainstay length has an effect on the ride characteristics of the bike. You first should figure out your preferred CS length setting, then shorten the chain to the minimum length. There are lots of guides on this topic on the web, e.g. this vid from absoluteblack:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUybJs7uork
    As RideEverything said, a worn drivetrain (lengthened chain, worn derailleur clutch) will also have a negative effect on chain slap.
    Again, what I want to point out is: the chain length should be a function of the chainstay length, not the other way round. The chainstay length has an effect on the ride characteristics.
    Hope this helps. Good luck!

  65. #5865
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hi,
    welcome to the tribe!
    Be aware that the chainstay length has an effect on the ride characteristics of the bike. You first should figure out your preferred CS length setting, then shorten the chain to the minimum length. There are lots of guides on this topic on the web, e.g. this vid from absoluteblack:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUybJs7uork
    As RideEverything said, a worn drivetrain (lengthened chain, worn derailleur clutch) will also have a negative effect on chain slap.
    Again, what I want to point out is: the chain length should be a function of the chainstay length, not the other way round. The chainstay length has an effect on the ride characteristics.
    Hope this helps. Good luck!
    I second this. Determine how long you want your chain stays (I like mine short, RideEverything likes his long). THEN deal with your chain slap issue in one or more of the ways recommended above. The adjustable chain stay length should NOT (IMHO) be used for anything other than tweaking the ride characteristics of the bike.
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  66. #5866
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    I second this. Determine how long you want your chain stays (I like mine short, RideEverything likes his long). THEN deal with your chain slap issue in one or more of the ways recommended above. The adjustable chain stay length should NOT (IMHO) be used for anything other than tweaking the ride characteristics of the bike.
    Thanks for all the replies!

    On my other rides I have always ridden in the 425-435mm chainstay length and this has always felt fine, albeit on 27.5 wheels. On the Honzo at 415mm I so far really like the playfulness of the bike. For those of you who have pulled the dropouts back and lengthened the chainstays, how much of a difference have you noticed in ride quality? One thing I would think may be beneficial is a slightly more stable ride? Considering the steep (compared to what other bikes are at today) head angle, maybe this would be advantageous on the Honzo. Not sure, might have to try it out!

    Also, somewhat related: roughly how much tension should there be in the chain and is there any good way to measure it other than by feel? If I leave my CS at 415mm, may need to take a link or two out. Of note, I did check the chain wear and it is fine on my current GX chain.

    Thanks again!

  67. #5867
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    I have a question about crank arm length. It seems like the group sets all come with 175mm. There are no markings on my crank arms so I tried to measure them, Iím guessing they are 175mm. If I buy a new crankset separately should I go for 175mm or 170mm? Iím guessing 170mm means slightly better ground clearance but slightly less power output? Any advice?

  68. #5868
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    I have a question about crank arm length. It seems like the group sets all come with 175mm. There are no markings on my crank arms so I tried to measure them, Iím guessing they are 175mm. If I buy a new crankset separately should I go for 175mm or 170mm? Iím guessing 170mm means slightly better ground clearance but slightly less power output? Any advice?
    There are different sizes for sure, I've seen 165, 170 and 175 (I believe I've even seen 172.5 somewhere).

    I'm sure there is an exact science somewhere for this, but I think it's basically dependent on your height/inseam, with taller riders on 175 cranks.

    Many (but maybe not all) manufactures base their bikes crank lengths on frame size, with the larger frames obviously shipping with 175's

    I'm sure someone with WAY better info than me can guide you...but based on my VERY limited physics knowledge you'd think a longer crank arm would give you more mechanical advantage, and as such more output watts...but I bet there is a small rider out there on 165 cranks that would beg to differ.
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  69. #5869
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    Quote Originally Posted by BassistBiker View Post
    Many (but maybe not all) manufactures base their bikes crank lengths on frame size
    That sounds 100% logical! I didnít even think of that.

  70. #5870
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    @yonsson fwiw, the sram nx gxp cranks are available in 155, 165, 170 and 175. r2-bike lists them at 84.50 euro, which is the cheapest i found so far (i checked hibike, bike-components and bike24).
    on a side note though: do you have any experience with r2-bike?

  71. #5871
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    on a side note though: do you have any experience with r2-bike?
    Yes, I bought my Pike fork and my handlebars from them. No issues at all, very fast shipping. The same with bike components.de. Got my stuff within a week.

    Just waiting for the rain to stop pouring down, then Iíll check if the creaking has stopped. Leaning towards DUB-BB and GX-cranks with additional Wolftooth T28 Eagle up front if it keeps creaking. That way Iíll future-proof the drivetrain. So I can swap to the eagle system easier if I want to go that route later.

  72. #5872
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    Are you able to run the Honzo ST as 27.5+ (not the Big Honzo)...I asked Kona themselves and they said no but I swear I have seen some running plus tires before.

  73. #5873
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    Are you able to run the Honzo ST as 27.5+ (not the Big Honzo)...I asked Kona themselves and they said no but I swear I have seen some running plus tires before.
    Hi,
    can't speak for the ST, but it's a non-issue on the 2016 Ti. This is a 27x2.8 Minion DHF on a Praxis AL32 rim, dropouts all the way forward:



    And judging by the 4th picture here
    KONA BIKES | MTB | HONZO | Honzo ST
    where you see that the chainstay yoke is built similarly (if not identical) to the Ti version, it should be fine as well.
    On top of that, the current ST has boost rear, while that Ti still has 142x12.
    Pedal strikes might be an issue obviously depending on your fork travel. Mine is set up with a 150mm Fox 36, which provides plenty of clearance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20190330_184255.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20190330_184137.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20190519_135747.jpg  


  74. #5874
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    Crankset question - Waiting on a 2017 carbon Honzo frame to arrive and build. Does it need a boost or regular crankset?

  75. #5875
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    Quote Originally Posted by phorest View Post
    Crankset question - Waiting on a 2017 carbon Honzo frame to arrive and build. Does it need a boost or regular crankset?
    https://2017.konaworld.com/bikes.cfm
    148x12mm, so Boost.

  76. #5876
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    So, this happened on yesterday's ride!

    Photo taken moments before...


    ...this happened!




    It was a small root step/drop. Upon landing the crank arm snapped!
    The cranks are pretty old and have had a lot of hard riding put into them. If I was injured when it happened I'd likely feel way more upset.

  77. #5877
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    So, this happened on yesterday's ride!

    It was a small root step/drop. Upon landing the crank arm snapped!
    The cranks are pretty old and have had a lot of hard riding put into them. If I was injured when it happened I'd likely feel way more upset.
    what the heck man, good to hear that you're alright! that could have ended in a desastrous way easily...
    how did you make it home, looks like that happened in the middle of the woods!
    me thinks, a ti eewings crankset would make a nice and useful appearance on your awesome bike!!

  78. #5878
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    what the heck man, good to hear that you're alright! that could have ended in a desastrous way easily...
    how did you make it home, looks like that happened in the middle of the woods!
    me thinks, a ti eewings crankset would make a nice and useful appearance on your awesome bike!!
    It happened on our second loop. We had already ridden another trail at this point. The area where this trail is it was relatively easy to get out without too much trouble. It was mostly downhill back to my friend's place so only a little bit of one foot pedalling was required.
    Playing the "What If" game had me thinking of all the places that the crank arm could've failed had me being very thankful it happened where and how it did!

    I've just finished the swap over of cranks from my Sentinel. This now makes my list of parts needed to run both bikes simultaneously that much bigger!

    lol! The eewings would look good! But they are so far out of my price range they can't even be on a dream list!

  79. #5879
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    Yes, it has a boost rear end - so does that automatically mean the crankset needs to be boost as well? that's what I'm not clear on. Thanks

  80. #5880
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    Quote Originally Posted by phorest View Post
    Yes, it has a boost rear end - so does that automatically mean the crankset needs to be boost as well? that's what I'm not clear on. Thanks
    Yes, with a 148mm rear you'll need a boost crank set, not to be confused with "super boost".
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  81. #5881
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    So... took a ride last night, first ride after the autumn service.
    No creeks! Kind of irritating that I donít need to buy the new parts Iíve been learning about the last days, thatís probably a sign of some sort of illness.

  82. #5882
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    Fork Suggestions

    Looking to get a new fork on my 2018 Honzo ST. Bought it used, with a Rockshox SID 120mm fork on it but want to get something a little stiffer and with a little more travel.

    Read through a lot of these pages here and seems 140mm is a sweet spot many people are happy with? The Honzo is "specced" per Kona for 120mm travel and 51mm offset. From what I understand, increasing fork travel 10-20mm shouldn't be an issue typically. If you increase the travel would you prefer to keep the offset the same, or reduce offset slightly to 44 or 46mm? Honestly, I doubt I would even notice a difference personally, so it may be moot.

    Looking at Fox 34 vs. MRP Ribbon. MRP being local gives them a slight edge for me, all else being equal. Anyone run a ribbon on the honzo and have insight to share?

    Edit: And just to show her off a bit, here's a recent picture of us out on a date
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo.jpg

  83. #5883
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    I've got a 140mm pike with a 51mm offset and it feels great. I use the bike for all mountain riding along with XC racing and I don't feel the travel or offset negatively impact the bike under any circumstances except the slight slackening of the STA.

  84. #5884
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    Well, after waiting nearly 2 months for my Hanzo ST frame to arrive, I finally picked it up and went to start building it. First thing I do is take the big peace of foam off the head tube and see the below. Yes that is the top of the head tube which, believe it or not, is supposed to be round. Well, Kona is a big company i'm sure they can send me a new frame. Nope! They say it's shipping damage even though both shop and I confirm that there is no damage to the box. So no replacement, just a suggestion to try and press a round piece of steel into it to open it back up. I'll get back to y'all and let you know if it works out, but not the best first experience with this company. if someone bought a $3500 carbon Process frame and there was a crack in the head tube when they open the box, is that person just SOL? I'm sure that Hanzo frame cost them $150, seems like a no brainier to replace.Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-20191023_175334.jpg

  85. #5885
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Oh I would be SO pissed.....

    That sucks, all of my dealings with Kona have been great...it sucks to hear about this.

    Back when I was an auto tech, I had a steel cone tool, that I used to make the openings in exhaust pipes that were damaged in shipping round again...I assume something similar could be used here, but I suspect there "could" be some paint chipping as you tap it back round again.

    Bummer about the damage, and good luck with the repair!
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  86. #5886
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    I had a similar problem 5 years ago with my steel Honzo. My head tube was slightly ovalized from the factory, but not nearly as bad as yours. When I contacted Kona I was basically told, "Not our problem". So I had to pay a shop to hone the head tube so the headset didn't have any play. Yours clearly is beyond a simple repair like mine, but I was pretty disappointed with Kona's customer service after that. I hope you can get things sorted out. For damage like that to be a cause from shipping it would have need to get tossed off a 5 story building onto the concrete. Kona needs to do the right thing in this case and get you a new frame.

    If there is shipping damage, shouldn't they go after the courier? Either way, it should be rectified.

  87. #5887
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    I've got a 140mm pike with a 51mm offset and it feels great. I use the bike for all mountain riding along with XC racing and I don't feel the travel or offset negatively impact the bike under any circumstances except the slight slackening of the STA.
    Same for me. 140mm Pike Select 2020, 51mm offset. Ride all mountain and sometimes a little Enduro-inspired. Very happy with the setup and a vast improvement over the stock 120mm Recon RL. Iím wondering though if itís not possible to upgrade a SiD to more travel, seems like a cheaper option if itís possible.

    I have no experience with different offsets, but keep in mind Kona went for 51mm offset on the new 2020 Process 134 29Ē since the test riders liked it better than a shorter offset.

  88. #5888
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Same for me. 140mm Pike Select 2020, 51mm offset. Ride all mountain and sometimes a little Enduro-inspired. Very happy with the setup and a vast improvement over the stock 120mm Recon RL. Iím wondering though if itís not possible to upgrade a SiD to more travel, seems like a cheaper option if itís possible.

    I have no experience with different offsets, but keep in mind Kona went for 51mm offset on the new 2020 Process 134 29Ē since the test riders liked it better than a shorter offset.
    I did not know that about the 134...thanks for the info!

    I think the sid is maxed out at 120, but I very well could be wrong. Also wanted something with a little stiffer frame/stanchions...found a good deal on a MRP Ribbon and think I am going to give it a try! Adjustable 120-160mm w/ 51mm offset so I am going to start at 140 and if I don't like the feel I can lower to 120 or 130.

  89. #5889
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    I did not know that about the 134...thanks for the info!

    I think the sid is maxed out at 120, but I very well could be wrong. Also wanted something with a little stiffer frame/stanchions...found a good deal on a MRP Ribbon and think I am going to give it a try! Adjustable 120-160mm w/ 51mm offset so I am going to start at 140 and if I don't like the feel I can lower to 120 or 130.
    Sounds cool! I havenít regretted swapping to 140mm for a single second and I donít think I would have a problem going up to 160mm. I havenít experienced anything negative going to 140mm and the improvement is massive descending.

  90. #5890
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    Got tired of the 18 POE, so I have ordered a DT Swiss E 1700 30mm rear wheel + 54T ratchet upgrade.

  91. #5891
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    Well, I had the shop bend back out the head tube and moved on with it. It is what it is, just wanna ride.

    Bike is awesome. Got to take it out on my local trails Friday and had a blast. It's been 5 years since I've ridden a hard tail. Definitely caught my self off guard in a few instances trying to do stuff that wouldn't even phase me on my RIP. I do feel like it's making me think more which I'm not upset about. But man, there's nothing like stomping down on the pedals on a hard tail.
    Build:
    2019 Hanzo ST XL
    Pike Ultimate 150 et42
    Bontrager Kovee Pro 30
    XX1 AXS
    G2 Ultimate 180/180
    Reverb AXS
    Minion DHF/ Agressor
    Deity Cockpit/Pedals

    I'll Try to get a weight sometime soon. Probably 28-29
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-20191102_145956-2-.jpg

  92. #5892
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Great looking ride, with a sweet build spec!

    Enjoy that beauty!!
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  93. #5893
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    Considering building up a '19 or '20 Big Honzo ST with spare parts I have lying around. I'm intending to run it with 29x2.3 for the most part and potentially single speed for now, but want to keep the ability to swap my 27.5+ wheelset from my other bike, 2.8 Maxxis DHF/Rekon on Race Face ARC 40s. I'm assuming Big Honzo ST is the safe bet over regular Honzo ST for fitment while being able to run 29x2.3 (or 2.35/2.4 if needed)?

    Would I be able to use my old XT (FC-M760) 3x9 non boost crankset on this and if so what size of chainrings can I likely use? I have it setup 1x with a 30T at the moment.
    2018 RSD Middlechild
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  94. #5894
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnmz10 View Post
    How many grams would be considered lightweight for a mtb wheelset?
    I have no idea. I just ordered a DT Swiss E 1700 rear wheel and 54 POE upgrade ratchet.
    The weight wasnít a concern, I just wanted the extra POE in an enduro package. The rear wheel is 1058g. Itís a hardtail after all, and I didnít want to spend too much. If I want to save weight I should buy a light weight rear cassette.

  95. #5895
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    And I find it strange that my ninja google skills canít find the weight of the WTB i29 wheels that my Honzo came equipped with. Iíll weigh both rear wheels when I make the swap. Iím curious to see if the Swiss wheel is lighter or not.

  96. #5896
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    This winter is going to drive me crazy. The sun already rises @8 and sets @16, and it will get worse.

  97. #5897
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post


    This winter is going to drive me crazy. The sun already rises @8 and sets @16, and it will get worse.

    Night riding, my friend. It's amazing.

  98. #5898
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    Quote Originally Posted by drpheta View Post
    Night riding, my friend. It's amazing.
    Yeah, I bet it is, but my wife wonít let me out in the dark woods by myself since I crash sometimes. And my biking friends donít ride in the dark.

  99. #5899
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Yeah, I bet it is, but my wife wonít let me out in the dark woods by myself since I crash sometimes. And my biking friends donít ride in the dark.
    Just get some good lights and a beacon app on your phone. It will let your wife know where you are and you can set it to send her a message if you stop moving for more than 5 or 10 minutes.

    If you're not in a remote area, riding alone isn't too much of a problem anyway. But, it may not be too hard to convince a couple friends to join you.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  100. #5900
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    Nice looking Honzo...... I got my Honzo frame last week with the exact same problem that you had. My head tube was damage during shipping probably. I live in Costa Rica so I dont know if it was the cuorier who damage the head tube. What I did was insert an old upper headset cup, put a piece of wood on top and use a hammer to bend the head tube. It worked perfectly. No damage to the paint. I think I will finish building my Honzo today. I'm using some new and old parts to build it.

  101. #5901
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Well, I had the shop bend back out the head tube and moved on with it. It is what it is, just wanna ride.

    Bike is awesome. Got to take it out on my local trails Friday and had a blast. It's been 5 years since I've ridden a hard tail. Definitely caught my self off guard in a few instances trying to do stuff that wouldn't even phase me on my RIP. I do feel like it's making me think more which I'm not upset about. But man, there's nothing like stomping down on the pedals on a hard tail.
    Build:
    2019 Hanzo ST XL
    Pike Ultimate 150 et42
    Bontrager Kovee Pro 30
    XX1 AXS
    G2 Ultimate 180/180
    Reverb AXS
    Minion DHF/ Agressor
    Deity Cockpit/Pedals

    I'll Try to get a weight sometime soon. Probably 28-29
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice looking Honzo...... I got my Honzo frame last week with the exact same problem that you had. My head tube was damage during shipping probably. I live in Costa Rica so I dont know if it was the cuorier who damage the head tube. What I did was insert an old upper headset cup, put a piece of wood on top and use a hammer to bend the head tube. It worked perfectly. No damage to the paint. I think I will finish building my Honzo today. I'm using some new and old parts to build it.

  102. #5902
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    2016 ST rust

    On my 2016 ST I have just recently noticed this rust building underneath the top tube. Has anyone else had issues with this? Any advice on treatments, sealants, etc?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-20191002_210142.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-20191002_210116.jpg  


  103. #5903
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    54 POE upgrade in da house.

  104. #5904
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post


    54 POE upgrade in da house.
    I have a set of M 1700 on my Honzo with a 32t ratchet. For the price they're a fantastic wheel that's light and stronger than a lot of more expensive ones out there. Even though the rim is pinned and welded at the seam, it's failure is never at the weld but rather an unlucky rock striking HARD.

    At that pricepoint, you're getting DT quality rims (E 532 rims on the E 1700 30, and M 462 on the M 1700 25), a 350 hub, competition spokes, and a stupid easy to maintain ratchet system.

    Keep your 18t ratchet in your bag/kit for emergency trail maintenance. In the off chance your 54t strips or explodes on the trail you'll still have a way to make it back home by riding and not walking.

  105. #5905
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwm5772 View Post
    On my 2016 ST I have just recently noticed this rust building underneath the top tube. Has anyone else had issues with this? Any advice on treatments, sealants, etc?
    You will need to sand/polish off all the rust, then paint with a self etching primer. Then regular paint.

    I'd recommend checking the frame over carefully and getting it all at once. Most likely there are other spots. Stripping the bike down to the bare frame may not be a bad idea. While you're at it I'd treat the inside of the frame with Frame Saver, or the like. That's also a lot easier with a bare frame.

    If you don't want to do it yourself you can have it blasted and powder coated. Pick any color you like. Then, afterwards, Frame Saver before reassembly.

    Preventative maintenance going forward, I wax my frames with carnauba car wax. Keeps the paint in good condition and helps keep rust away. Even on my fatbike that gets exposed to salt. No rust.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  106. #5906
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    Quote Originally Posted by drpheta View Post
    Keep your 18t ratchet in your bag/kit for emergency trail maintenance. In the off chance your 54t strips or explodes on the trail you'll still have a way to make it back home by riding and not walking.
    Haha! Ooookej. Iím living on the edge, I never bring more than my water bottle when Iím riding. But I sure will keep the 18T in case of emergencies.

    Iím looking forward to mounting the wheel on the bike. Couldnít find any weight info on the stock rear wheel so will try to weigh both the new and old kit.

  107. #5907
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    Old (WTB i29) VS new. Not concerned about weight, but saved 172g.

  108. #5908
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbutcher13 View Post
    Well, after waiting nearly 2 months for my Hanzo ST frame to arrive, I finally picked it up and went to start building it. First thing I do is take the big peace of foam off the head tube and see the below. Yes that is the top of the head tube which, believe it or not, is supposed to be round. Well, Kona is a big company i'm sure they can send me a new frame. Nope! They say it's shipping damage even though both shop and I confirm that there is no damage to the box. So no replacement, just a suggestion to try and press a round piece of steel into it to open it back up. I'll get back to y'all and let you know if it works out, but not the best first experience with this company. if someone bought a $3500 carbon Process frame and there was a crack in the head tube when they open the box, is that person just SOL? I'm sure that Hanzo frame cost them $150, seems like a no brainier to replace.Click image for larger version. 

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    I had the exact same damage to my frame a few years ago. I got like $50 from UPS because the box was pretty beat up, but nothing from Bikeman. Had to sent it to Waltworks to get it fixed.

  109. #5909
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    Tested the new rear wheel yesterday. Clearly but not massively noticeable better response from pedaling.

  110. #5910
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    Getting there!

    2018 Honzo DL/AL frame
    XX1 drivetrain
    RS Pike RT3-set at 130mm
    Custom built wheels-- Bitex hubs laced to Spank Oozy 30mm rims!
    (on the way)

    Currently sits at 27.4lbs with all the accouterments!

    Now, I just need to ride it!

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_3755.jpg
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    Salsa El Mariachi--SS
    Gone-
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    Airborne Guardian
    Redline Monocog Flight

  111. #5911
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Tested the new rear wheel yesterday. Clearly but not massively noticeable better response from pedaling.
    Turn that DHR 2 around! It'll help more that 6oz lost 🤘

  112. #5912
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Turn that DHR 2 around! It'll help more that 6oz lost 🤘
    🤣🤣🤣

    half a lb off a wheel is no joke.

  113. #5913
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Turn that DHR 2 around! It'll help more that 6oz lost 🤘
    Haha! Total noob mistake. Thanks for noticing, that would have taken me a long time to notice.

  114. #5914
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-812ad84a-fd67-4c83-9861-98648dd8662d.jpeg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-a43d69fe-f97f-4fe4-b769-70d95d409961.jpeg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-8f0f1c3d-6dba-44d9-aa8c-dc11c71fdb76.jpeg

    2019 Honzo ST build inspired by my first real MTB, the 1997 GT Timberline FS.

    Pike Ultimate 130mm 42mm Offset

    TRP Quadiem

    Deity Contact Points

    GX Eagle

    KS Dropper

    King HS

    Hope with WTB rim up front, with a buddyís OEM wheel off a Process 29 AL/DL in the back.

    Rear wheel upgrade as time allows.

  115. #5915
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zach Morris View Post

    2019 Honzo ST build inspired by my first real MTB, the 1997 GT Timberline FS.

    Pike Ultimate 130mm 42mm Offset

    TRP Quadiem

    Deity Contact Points

    GX Eagle

    KS Dropper

    King HS

    Hope with WTB rim up front, with a buddyís OEM wheel off a Process 29 AL/DL in the back.

    Rear wheel upgrade as time allows.
    Impressive build, very nice composition. And a great idea with the tribute-design!

  116. #5916
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    So, who here is running 160mm forks? I know RideEverything is, anybody else?
    What could I expect In ride characteristics if I go from 140mm to 160mm?
    Itís a pretty cheap thing to do, so might be a fun thing to fiddle with during the snowy month.

  117. #5917
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Impressive build, very nice composition. And a great idea with the tribute-design!
    Thanks- very fun piecing this one together.

    42mm offset Pike demands attention, but good form is rewarded by a ripping bike!

  118. #5918
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    So, who here is running 160mm forks? I know RideEverything is, anybody else?
    What could I expect In ride characteristics if I go from 140mm to 160mm?
    Itís a pretty cheap thing to do, so might be a fun thing to fiddle with during the snowy month.
    I like it, I ride aggressive and I'm heavy so I'll take the extra cushion.
    But I do like that it slacked it out a bit and still getting used to the longer reach as this one is an XL.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  119. #5919
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    What could I expect In ride characteristics if I go from 140mm to 160mm?
    I went from the original 120mm to 140mm in the first few weeks of riding my 2012 HonzoST and never looked back.
    A few years later I went to 150mm and liked the handling. My last summer on the 2012 frame I had the fork at 160mm and didn't like how the bike felt.

    At 160mm on the 2012 HonzoST the bike felt too tall both at the bars and BB. It made cornering feel not good. At all.
    It's funny what 10mm does to the feel of the bike. 150mm felt fine but that extra 10mm threw everything off. I run my bars quite high but on the 2012 it didn't feel right. Whereas on the 2019 the bars are about the same height but the bike feels great.

    On my 2019 HonzoST I'm running a -2į angleset and my fork at 160mm. The angleset makes a world of difference with the fork at 160mm. That being said the 2019 frame is quite a bit longer in the FC than the 2012. I'm sure that also adds to difference in feel.

    The biggest differences in ride feel between frames running the fork at 160mm is with climbing and cornering.
    With the angleset I don't need to always be perched on the nose of the saddle whenever the trail starts to point up. And, cornering still feels snappy with the angleset.
    With regards to cornering I also run my dropouts at the longest setting. Yes, at the shortest setting it's snappier in corners but there are so many other negatives for me because I'm tall that it's not worth it to run them short. But, that's a whole other discussion, though!

  120. #5920
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    Hi all,

    I've been reading through all these inspiring posts and getting anxious about putting together my Honzo steel frame. This is going to be my first build, and I have some questions.

    The frame is a 2019 Honzo Steel - Small

    I have - >

    Frame (heh)

    Eagle GX Group Set

    Ibis s35 - 12x148 XD , 15x110

    Fox Float 34 Factory 130 51mm offset

    I'm a little confused on bottom bracket and headset. The steel frame has an integrated headset and after viewing all the builds here - i can't seem to figure out which BB and headset would be best for me.

    Does anyone have any suggestions relative to BB and headsets? Any help would be appreciated.

  121. #5921
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    Iím running a Chris King i2 Inset Tapered 44mm | 52mm ZS 1.5 on my 2019 ST pictured a few posts back.

    Canít recall the details on my BB...

    Sounds like you have the bones of a great build!

  122. #5922
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    The bb is a bsa 73,i.e.external threaded. The spindle diameter depends on the crankset you have, either 24, 28.99 (= sram dub) or 30mm.
    Headset AFAIK upper cup 44 zero stack (, lower 56 zero stack.

  123. #5923
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    Just some pictures of my new 2020 Honzo ST build. I used some old and new parts. I want to change my fork to something more aggressive in the near future. Loving this bike Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo-1.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo-3.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo-2.jpg

  124. #5924
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    Custom PNW Moss Edition

    Me and my 2017 ST, before and after a mid-ride Moss install, at my local trail network here in Seattle.



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo2.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo3.jpg  


  125. #5925
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    Hi guys, I am new rider and Id like a bit of advice.


    I am looking at the 19' and 20' models. Is 20 better version for certain? I am asking because the drivetrain is eagle, but it is a mixture of sx/nx while the 19' version is just nx (not eagle, but no sx either)

    https://www.konaworld.com/honzo.cfm

    https://2019.konaworld.com/honzo.cfm

    The other thing I need to know, are the front and rear axle boost-thru?

    I need to be able swap frames in 6 months for:

    https://rsdbikes.com/portfolio/wildcat-v2-aluminum/

    Can someone please make double tripple sure, that the fork and seat posts and wheels and rims and other stuff all syncs? Im close to getting the honzo like this weekend or early next.

    Thank you guys for reading

    cheers.
    Never be cruel, never be cowardly. And never ever eat pears! Remember Ė hate is always foolishÖand love, is always wise.

  126. #5926
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    Both Honzo's have Boost thru-axles, seat post diameters are different. 30.9 for Wildcat v2 and 31.6 for Honzo.
    2018 RSD Middlechild
    2010 Giant STP SS

  127. #5927
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    So Ill have to get a new dropper right, and then sell this one, Okay. What about the gear set? Which version is better to go with?
    Never be cruel, never be cowardly. And never ever eat pears! Remember Ė hate is always foolishÖand love, is always wise.

  128. #5928
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    I only had 11spd GX from SRAM, so no experience with NX and SX. NX generally does not get ton of love, it is heavy etc. so I imagine SX will be even worse. The NX bike however has powerspline BB, I would much prefer the new DUB and while I don't care for Eagle for my type of riding, you at least get 30T chainring on the flip side instead of a 28 if that matters to you. ( I have to connect trails so I don't want to constantly spin out so it would help) But yeah, I personally would not pick either drivetrain if I had a choice, I would literally rather have Deore M6000 10 spd with their 11-42, but that is irrelevant I suppose and now I'm just rambling...
    2018 RSD Middlechild
    2010 Giant STP SS

  129. #5929
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisCR23 View Post
    Just some pictures of my new 2020 Honzo ST build. I used some old and new parts. I want to change my fork to something more aggressive in the near future. Loving this bike Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice bike. I will be able to purchase the same bike in the near future, but wondering about sizing if anyone can give me some pointers. With my 1.78 am I better off with the medium or the large?

    My previous 2 bikes were a canyon spectral Medium 2014 (felt to small with reach 415) and a bird Aeris 145 M/L (reach 480 was very stable at high speed and rowdy terrain but I missed the playfullness)

    Can anyone let me know how tall the are, what size they ride and they fair with it?

  130. #5930
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    I'm 178 cm (I think) and very happy on a medium.

  131. #5931
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb-remco View Post
    Nice bike. I will be able to purchase the same bike in the near future, but wondering about sizing if anyone can give me some pointers. With my 1.78 am I better off with the medium or the large?

    My previous 2 bikes were a canyon spectral Medium 2014 (felt to small with reach 415) and a bird Aeris 145 M/L (reach 480 was very stable at high speed and rowdy terrain but I missed the playfullness)

    Can anyone let me know how tall the are, what size they ride and they fair with it?
    I'm 179cm an on a large 2016 Honzo, which on paper had a 460 reach. I run a 150mm fox 36 though, with a 40mm stem and 780 roox dominator bar, so the actual reach will be a tad shorter. i recon 455ish - i cannot measure it right now.
    I run the dropouts all the way forward, and use either 29er or b+ wheels. I really love that bike both up and down, and the size is spot on for me.
    I'm using a 160mm bikeyoke revive fwiw, and 175mm cranks with rf atlas pedals.

    i guess for you the current model medium should be preferable to the large at your height - you can always gain about 20mm wheelbase by moving the dropouts all the way back, in case you need more stability for certain trails.
    some folks around here have also been very happy with an angle set, which would shorten the reach a bit, while lengthening the wheelbase and making the bike yet more stable.
    can you test ride the bike before purchasing/ordering?

  132. #5932
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    i guess for you the current model medium should be preferable to the large at your height - you can always gain about 20mm wheelbase by moving the dropouts all the way back, in case you need more stability for certain trails.
    some folks around here have also been very happy with an angle set, which would shorten the reach a bit, while lengthening the wheelbase and making the bike yet more stable.
    can you test ride the bike before purchasing/ordering?
    Thanks for the input (and Pudackl as well). PLanning on running it on 29'' wheels and a 140mm fork. I can probably arange to sit on one, but a test ride might not be an option. Will have to look into that. So far, everyone has said Medium, so that would be my go to option now.

  133. #5933
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb-remco View Post
    Thanks for the input (and Pudackl as well). PLanning on running it on 29'' wheels and a 140mm fork. I can probably arange to sit on one, but a test ride might not be an option. Will have to look into that. So far, everyone has said Medium, so that would be my go to option now.
    I'm 179 cm on a 2019 large steel Honzo, with 29 inch wheels and a 140 fork. Perfect size for me. I would never want that bike in a medium. That said, I like my bikes on the roomier side, and this bike does not disappoint. It may be the most comfortable bike I have ever owned. And OMG does it shred...
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  134. #5934
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    Nice activity here and a lot of nice looking new bikes!
    Thanks for the input about 160mm fork.
    I have no re-evaluated and I think Iíll stick with the Honzoand pass on the Process until at least spring/summer, I just like the Honzo way too much to get rid of it.

  135. #5935
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    I needed to update my fork, so I added a Pike Ultimate to my custom Honzo AL

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-5beyafs.jpg
    Last edited by drpheta; 12-02-2019 at 09:28 AM.

  136. #5936
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    I upgraded my Big Honzo a little. It now has a 150mm Yari, -1.5 degree Works headset, 2.8 Minion DHF and DHR II, and Shimano BR-MT520 4 piston brakes.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  137. #5937
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    Did you happen to weight this frame? I have a 2012 Honzo, love it, but am contemplating a 2020 frame and hoping it's lighter than the 7 pounds i'm currently hauling around...


    Quote Originally Posted by JN29 View Post
    Finally got around to taking a few pics. Bike has been running a few weeks now and did a local XC race and another trail ride and it climbs so much better than I would have thought.

    2020 st in XL

    GX eagle cassette
    GX derailleur
    Xo1 shifter
    Kmc 12 spd chain in full silver
    Dub descendant cranks
    Guide RE brakes with 200/180
    Old Kona bar
    Renthal stem
    Cane Creek z44/56 headset
    Odi rogue grips
    Crankbrothers Highline dropper 170mm
    2020 160mm Yari soon to be a Yarik after upgrading the damper with 42mm offset

    Old wtb wheels from the Process
    2.5 dhf
    2.3 aggressor

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  138. #5938
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjulier View Post
    Did you happen to weight this frame? I have a 2012 Honzo, love it, but am contemplating a 2020 frame and hoping it's lighter than the 7 pounds i'm currently hauling around...
    It's not any lighter. If you want to save a significant amount of weight you will have to switch to aluminum, or more realistically, carbon.

    It's a cheap steel frame, which will never be light weight with a retail price tag of $550. You can spend 3x that and get a custom frame, but if it's steel you will likely only save ~1lb assuming it's also designed as a rowdy Trail hardtail.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  139. #5939
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    I probably should have couched my query with a little background - the fellas at Kona don't have a frame weight (I am friends with one of their industrial designers, being one myself, but they are not the best at record keeping) and I was curious if JN29 weighed that frame before he built it up. And you're right, it's going to be hard to drop noticeable weight without switching materials.


    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    It's not any lighter. If you want to save a significant amount of weight you will have to switch to aluminum, or more realistically, carbon.

    It's a cheap steel frame, which will never be light weight with a retail price tag of $550. You can spend 3x that and get a custom frame, but if it's steel you will likely only save ~1lb assuming it's also designed as a rowdy Trail hardtail.

  140. #5940
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjulier View Post
    I probably should have couched my query with a little background - the fellas at Kona don't have a frame weight (I am friends with one of their industrial designers, being one myself, but they are not the best at record keeping) and I was curious if JN29 weighed that frame before he built it up. And you're right, it's going to be hard to drop noticeable weight without switching materials.
    Right, and I'm telling you I know what the current version weighs, it's not lighter than your frame.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  141. #5941
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    I've lurked on this thread for a while, so I figured it's time for me to contribute. I'm on a 2018 CR Trail with a few substitutions from stock: Stan's Arch MK3 rims laced to DT 240s, Teravail Honcho Tan walls, Raceface Next R bars and 40mm Turbine Stem. XT cassette, KMC gold chain (because... gold), and a Specialized Phenom saddle. It's such a rad bike. I'm blown away by how capable it is every time I ride.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-inside-passage.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-gold-chain.jpg

  142. #5942
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    Update on my 2016. It was built as a single speed since new. Now with gears, canít wait to hit the trails. Itís is rollen with new: f+r tires, rear wheel, xt drivetrain, cranks, dropper lever, and chainring. Hardtail party on the slikrock in the am!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-7d5f7a63-f9f7-4267-9b7f-5826e78313e9.jpeg  

    Last edited by OLDFATUGLY; 12-13-2019 at 09:08 AM.

  143. #5943
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    I'm a short guy, 1.70m (5ft 6in)....my bike is medium size. According to Kona I can go with Small or a Medium but I chose a Medium and its perfect. Hope somebody else (taller) can help you.

  144. #5944
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb-remco View Post
    Nice bike. I will be able to purchase the same bike in the near future, but wondering about sizing if anyone can give me some pointers. With my 1.78 am I better off with the medium or the large?

    My previous 2 bikes were a canyon spectral Medium 2014 (felt to small with reach 415) and a bird Aeris 145 M/L (reach 480 was very stable at high speed and rowdy terrain but I missed the playfullness)

    Can anyone let me know how tall the are, what size they ride and they fair with it?
    I'm a short guy, 1.70m (5ft 6in)....my bike is medium size. According to Kona I can go with Small or a Medium but I chose a Medium and its perfect. Hope somebody else (taller) can help you.

  145. #5945
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisCR23 View Post
    Hope somebody else (taller) can help you.
    Maybe a bit late, but I'll chime in. I'm 5'10 and ride a medium CR. I had to add a 15mm longer stem, but it fits me great now, and I love the way it rides. I also a large Process 134. On the Process I needed a shorter dropper. The reason I went with the medium Honzo was because the stock seatpost didn't go low enough for me when fully extended. I didn't know the mediums and larges had different length droppers when I test rode. If I had, I probably would have gone with a large Honzo and sold the long post to buy a shorter one.

  146. #5946
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    Stoked to soon be a Honzo owner!

    This frame is en route to me and should be built up before Xmas!




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    '19 Yeti SB150
    '19 Specialized Chisel

  147. #5947
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    Just finished my build tonight. Mix of new and used parts, but turned out pretty well for a budget build I think!

    Taking it out for a low key shakedown ride with my son tomorrow.




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    '19 Yeti SB150
    '19 Specialized Chisel

  148. #5948
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    Quote Originally Posted by DETarch View Post
    Just finished my build tonight. Mix of new and used parts, but turned out pretty well for a budget build I think!

    Taking it out for a low key shakedown ride with my son tomorrow.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Nicely done. An excellent Xmas present to yourself. I have made a few of those purchases myself over the past 2 weeks (much to the chagrin of my loved ones who don't know what to buy me), and am now eying up matching WOs for my daughter and me.

    Have fun, and good luck with the maiden voyage.
    2020 Kona Unit
    2019 Forbidden Druid
    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  149. #5949
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    Quote Originally Posted by XenoVelo View Post
    Maybe a bit late, but I'll chime in. I'm 5'10 and ride a medium CR. I had to add a 15mm longer stem, but it fits me great now, and I love the way it rides. I also a large Process 134. On the Process I needed a shorter dropper. The reason I went with the medium Honzo was because the stock seatpost didn't go low enough for me when fully extended. I didn't know the mediums and larges had different length droppers when I test rode. If I had, I probably would have gone with a large Honzo and sold the long post to buy a shorter one.
    Thanks to you both. I sat on a large honzo and ordered the medium size. I could go either way without any problems, but want to make it more playfull and i think the medkium is better for that. Will post pictures once the bike is ready.

  150. #5950
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    Hello everyone!

    Iím joining the ranks very shortly. Iíve already got my honzo st frame in large (I had my choice of Ď19 or Ď20 and went with the 2019 British racing green instead of the newest color).

    I race xc and (ultra)endurance, so this build is to save wear on my new fancy race ht or even my carbon fs in the winter months and have a more slack and all around fun bike for whenever. Also, it has the capability of being a fun bikepacking rig which is good because itís replacing my old carbon superfly I had used for that (sold it to a roadie friend who is getting into mtb).

    Iím excited for this build since Iíll be focused on fun, durability, and performance without stressing about weight. I also imagine it will be more fun on the descents.

    I know that people might comment that this bike isnít very slack at 68 degrees stock, but remember I race xc. This will be my only bike with a sub-69 degree hta. Plus, I am starting out with a 130mm fork with the ability to up that to 140.

    Anyway, this is what Iíve cobbled together:
    - large honzo st frame
    - Fox factory 34 130 (got a fantastic deal on this!)
    - 175 xt crankset I already had
    - xt wheels that Iím already using though Iím looking to get some wider wheels to run a 2.6 in the future
    - gx drivetrain (other than cranks)
    - 50mm stem -6*
    - Eaton havoc bar 750 (narrow to many, but what Iím used to)
    - ergon ga3 grips that I already have
    - m8100 brakeset which I got with my race ht
    - ks lev si 150mm dropper
    - ergon saddle
    - cane creek 40 headset

    The 130mm fork should slacken it to about 67.5, correct? Iím thinking about getting a 140mm air spring installed next time it gets serviced. Those of you who have ridden either 130 or 140, what are your thoughts? I know that Iíll ride it a while before making any changes.

    In general, any tips or suggestions for a primarily xc rider looking for a tougher bike to have fun on knowing that Iím pretty smooth on my bikes as opposed to mashing over things?

    Also, do I need to treat the inside of the frame before putting it together?

    Thank you everyone!

  151. #5951
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    Sounds like a good kit!
    I run my Pike fork at 140mm and there are many more here that do.
    I swapped from the stock Recon RL 120mm and the improvements are massive. It feels much more capable downhill and I havenít noticed anything negative climbing. I moved my saddle a little forward to get a better climbing position lowered the stem 5mm, but thatís it. I climb standing up most of the time anyway.

  152. #5952
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    Iím fiddling with my gear settings, canít get it to work satisfactory. My gear cable looks a little messed up so I thought I should try to swap it. Iím pretty sure someone here mentioned a specific gear cable that was good but I canít find it. Help please.

  153. #5953
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    A mullet christmas and a happy new year!

    Unintentionally had my first ride in mullet setup on the 24th - during the recent cold spell, 2 spoke nipples on my 27+ front wheel snapped while standing in the garage, so i swapped in the 29er. And as the 29er rear wheel is up for a rim upgrade, i kept the 27+ rear wheel installed:

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_20191224_151843.jpg

    I really enjoyed the downhill part of the ride. It's very flowy and non-technical, and the mullet setup was no disadvantage.
    I negatively noticed the even more slacked out seat angle on the ups though (I stil run a 150mm fox36 sans angleset).

    Anyways, wherever you ride, I wish you all a belated merry christmas, happy holidays, and an excellent new year!

    PS: it's never been that green/brown on the 24th in my area...

  154. #5954
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Sounds like a good kit!
    I run my Pike fork at 140mm and there are many more here that do.
    I swapped from the stock Recon RL 120mm and the improvements are massive. It feels much more capable downhill and I havenít noticed anything negative climbing. I moved my saddle a little forward to get a better climbing position lowered the stem 5mm, but thatís it. I climb standing up most of the time anyway.
    Thanks! Iíll almost certainly be swapping in the 140mm airspring next service or at the beginning of summer (whichever comes first).

    Did you treat the inside of your frame or is that something to worry about? I ride all year in the pnw with plenty of mud in the winter.

  155. #5955
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    Quote Originally Posted by yonsson View Post
    Iím fiddling with my gear settings, canít get it to work satisfactory. My gear cable looks a little messed up so I thought I should try to swap it. Iím pretty sure someone here mentioned a specific gear cable that was good but I canít find it. Help please.
    I donít know how much the brand matters, but Iíve had good luck with shimano and jagwire, as well as others. I would say replace the housing with some nice housing along with the new cable and you should be in good shape.

    Otherwise, make sure your derailleur hanger isnít bent. That will prevent anything you do from making much of a difference. The b-screw sometimes can cause some finicky shifting, but that likely isnít the issue.

  156. #5956
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    Quote Originally Posted by cirecc View Post
    Did you treat the inside of your frame or is that something to worry about? I ride all year in the pnw with plenty of mud in the winter.
    Iíll let one of the ST-guys answer that. Iím running the Aluminium frame.

  157. #5957
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    Quote Originally Posted by cirecc View Post
    Did you treat the inside of your frame or is that something to worry about? I ride all year in the pnw with plenty of mud in the winter.
    Yeah dude, you'll want to framesave it. I'm pretty sure all of Kona's steel frames are bare metal on the inside (not E.D. coated, like recent surly and all city frames, for example. It will definitely rust if it's left untreated. Treating the frame is worth the peace of mind.

  158. #5958
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    I coated my winter duty Unit with Fluid Film. I didnít bother with my 3 season Honzo.
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  159. #5959
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    Thanks, guys! I picked up some fluid film for peace of mind.

  160. #5960
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    Fluid film will wash away so you need to retreat it every year.

  161. #5961
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by rlee View Post
    Fluid film will wash away so you need to retreat it every year.
    Good to know. Ok. I will hit the Unit again next fall.

    I bought 2 $25 sprayers from Home Depot. I keep one at work and one at home. They work like a damn. I am so impressed.

    Takes me 5 minutes to spray and towel dry my bike. 10 minutes max if I want to do a pristine job.

    Here is my work setup...

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_0203.jpg
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  162. #5962
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    Thanks, I sprayed the frame tonight. Interesting stuff.

    I also use one of those speakers when we go riding away from home. They work great and are cheap ($15?).

  163. #5963
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    Sorry guys for contaminating the Honzo thread with a Unit. I do own a Honzo too though :-)
    2020 Kona Unit
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  164. #5964
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Good to know. Ok. I will hit the Unit again next fall.

    I bought 2 $25 sprayers from Home Depot. I keep one at work and one at home. They work like a damn. I am so impressed.

    Takes me 5 minutes to spray and towel dry my bike. 10 minutes max if I want to do a pristine job.

    Here is my work setup...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hi Mike,
    That is a real workhorse! Those over gloves (or whatever these contraptions are called) are awesome, what kind of temperatures do you have that you need these?

  165. #5965
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hi Mike,
    That is a real workhorse! Those over gloves (or whatever these contraptions are called) are awesome, what kind of temperatures do you have that you need these?
    Hey Rynee. It can get to minus 35C here. It's been a very mild winter so far but we have minus 20 temps on their way.

    I am 100% comfortable riding in anything as low as minus 20. I still ride in pretty much all temps regardless of how cold they are, but anything colder than, say, minus 25 and I risk things going sideways very quickly with my drivetrain and brakes.

    This is my 12th year in a row of dedicated winter commuting. I am still trying to fine tune apparel choices/combos. That's the trickiest thing for me.
    2020 Kona Unit
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    2018 Kona Honzo ST 30th BDay SE
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon Fixed Gear

  166. #5966
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Hey Rynee. It can get to minus 35C here. It's been a very mild winter so far but we have minus 20 temps on their way.

    I am 100% comfortable riding in anything as low as minus 20. I still ride in pretty much all temps regardless of how cold they are, but anything colder than, say, minus 25 and I risk things going sideways very quickly with my drivetrain and brakes.

    This is my 12th year in a row of dedicated winter commuting. I am still trying to fine tune apparel choices/combos. That's the trickiest thing for me.
    Wow, that is a long time and these are seriously cold winters! The coldest I recall commuting in was -15į celcius. This winter so far was just sad, not a day below - 5, and no snow at all.

    Yeah these Temps really put the equipment to test.
    I get your point regarding the drivetrain: the fact that the snow used to clog the cassette and make shifting difficult was one of the reasons to go single speed (for commuting and also for mtb on the og honzo). Luckily the brakes always fulfilled their tasks without issues.
    On the apparel side, I mix warm bike pants and winter gear from other winter sports, the colder it gets, the more layers on top of each other. I use lobster gloves for really low Temps.

    What kind of boots do you use? Below - 5, warm gore tex boots are fine, but if it's around zero with slushy conditions, I use padded rubber boots and a thick pair of socks... Looks ridiculous but keeps the feet dry.

    Would these tires you use be good for winter mtb in mixed conditions as well? Are you using them on the honzo too?
    Thanks.
    Enjoy your ride!

  167. #5967
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    Im looking to pick up a Big Honzo ST in the future but reviews always give the Honzo a "harsh" ride, even for steel. Does anyone have comparisons between the Hozno ST and a similiar style steel hardtail? (think, Ragely Blue Pig, RSD Middle Child, Chromag Rootdown, etc.).

    My side of the thought is that with 27.5+, you wont notice a huge difference. But it will be my first hardtail so I am not familiar with the ride...let alone AL vs. ST.

  168. #5968
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    I've had a 2017 Honzo Ti for a few years now and just threw in some CuchCore XC tire inserts. This allowed me to drop pressure in the rear with a 2.4'' Minion DHRII, 29'' wheels, at *update* 19-21 PSI... and I live in Grand Junction CO riding high desert rock terrain and frequent Moab. Dropping the pressure down has been awesome. No issue with the carbon wheels with the CushCore inserts either, and the traction has been great. I was around 29-30 psi before the inserts, its certainly taken the edge off hard impacts while protecting my rims. Of course you could use these on any HT you end up getting. I've loved the Honzo Ti I got though wouldn't trade it for anything. Best of luck ~
    Last edited by SteamboatSteamer; 01-12-2020 at 09:36 AM.

  169. #5969
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    Quote Originally Posted by barefootdan View Post
    Im looking to pick up a Big Honzo ST in the future but reviews always give the Honzo a "harsh" ride, even for steel. Does anyone have comparisons between the Hozno ST and a similiar style steel hardtail? (think, Ragely Blue Pig, RSD Middle Child, Chromag Rootdown, etc.).

    My side of the thought is that with 27.5+, you wont notice a huge difference. But it will be my first hardtail so I am not familiar with the ride...let alone AL vs. ST.
    I have a 2020 Big Honzo ST as my only mountain bikeó I read the review of the harsh ride as well and was a bit worried. In my experience thus far (finished the build in November and been riding since) it is more compliant than my specialized fuse 27.5+ which was AL. I stole all the parts I could from the fuse to build out the Big Honzo so the frame was basically the only difference.

    I wouldnít say that it was a massive difference in compliance, but it was definitely less harsh of a ride. Im running 2.8 wtb rangers and am loving the cushion they provide.

    I know this isnít answering what you asked- but I hope it helps. Additional caveat here, Iíve never ridden a full suspension bike and come from a gravel grinding background, so this thing feels like Iím on a cloud compared to when I was hitting single track on my grave bike.

    Iíve really loved the big Honzo so far - been a blast. I like it a lot more than the fuse I was riding. Feels like it fits a lot better so that could be why, but I love this thing.

    Best of luck!

  170. #5970
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    Iíve been thinking about your question. I have just built my honzo st and am waiting for a couple of days without heavy precipitation to try it out (this month is killing me). Though Iím waiting to test out that bike, I do want to chime in about hardtails in general. I race xc/ultra endurance and have an xc race hardtail and fs. I used to ride and race a carbon 2012 Trek superfly. This bike was pretty average as far as dampening goes. I recently got a new giant xtc sl which is more compliant. I loved that old trek and never thought that it was that harsh though I do notice the improvement with the newer fancier frame that was specifically engineered for compliance.

    The new xtc is noticeably softer in the right places. That being said, the difference in riding is more in the bouncing you get on the small bumps and the smaller vibrations while youíre seated. This makes climbing generally nicer as well as fast generally smooth trails. Going over roots and rocks (and descending) is done out of the saddle negating almost all the difference in frame dampening since your legs are absorbing any bumps and vibrations and your hands are on suspension.

    No matter what, it is still a hardtail. Youíre going to learn to ride it differently because of that. Youíll spend more time out of the saddle regardless of frame since it helps you clear things more smoothly (not to mention itís way more efficient out of the saddle than your fs). A steel honzo is going to be relatively supple. Those that say itís harsh, might be expecting something a lot more flexy. I would rather have some more stiffness in a steel frame for efficiency and precision than have a super flexy frame that drags on climbs or does not feel snappy. My xtc weighs under 21 pounds and only has 100mm of suspension on its xc race fork. My steel honzo weighs about 50% more and has a 130mm trail fork, a dropper (the carbon post on the xtc does help with compliance as well), more forgiving geometry, and considerably bigger tires. The honzo should be smoother and softer than my race bike - even if it were aluminum, since the other features would probably overshadow the compliance of the xtcís fancy carbon.

    I like steel and wasnít concerned about weight with this build. I donít mind working harder on the climbs since I often ride with people who arenít racers and chasing each other up mountains isnít the way they like to ride. If you are wanting to drop a few pounds, I would grab the aluminum frame since plus tires will dampen most things. If you want the burliness and a little more compliance, get the steel frame.

    I probably wrote all of this because I canít go ride outside and talk about how the bike actually rides and feels. Weíll see if I feel any different after getting out there on this bike.
    Last edited by cirecc; 01-14-2020 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Typo

  171. #5971
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    Well, I just got about 2.5 hours in on the honzo st today. It was a little bit of sloppy ride since we had some snow melting.

    I stand by my statements from this morning. I wouldnít say that the honzo st is any more harsh than other hardtails. I am still waiting for my 2.6 rear tire to come in, so I used my winter training wheel which has a 2.35 Nobby Nic on 25 mm rims. I would say that the xtc sl is more compliant, but comparing a honzo st frame to a fancy carbon xc race ht isnít an apples to apples comparison.

    I would say That the honzo st feels more solid with the extra weight, bigger front tire at least, and longer and slacker frame. When I think of a harsh feeling bike, I think of feeling rattled around, and I definitely didnít get that or any feeling that the frame was transmitting more vibration up to me.

    I would say get that big honzo st or honzo st if it suits what youíre looking for.

  172. #5972
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    Quote Originally Posted by cirecc View Post
    Well, I just got about 2.5 hours in on the honzo st today. It was a little bit of sloppy ride since we had some snow melting.

    I stand by my statements from this morning. I wouldnít say that the honzo st is any more harsh than other hardtails. I am still waiting for my 2.6 rear tire to come in, so I used my winter training wheel which has a 2.35 Nobby Nic on 25 mm rims. I would say that the xtc sl is more compliant, but comparing a honzo st frame to a fancy carbon xc race ht isnít an apples to apples comparison.

    I would say That the honzo st feels more solid with the extra weight, bigger front tire at least, and longer and slacker frame. When I think of a harsh feeling bike, I think of feeling rattled around, and I definitely didnít get that or any feeling that the frame was transmitting more vibration up to me.

    I would say get that big honzo st or honzo st if it suits what youíre looking for.
    Thank you for the write up!!

  173. #5973
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Wow, that is a long time and these are seriously cold winters! The coldest I recall commuting in was -15į celcius. This winter so far was just sad, not a day below - 5, and no snow at all.

    Yeah these Temps really put the equipment to test.
    I get your point regarding the drivetrain: the fact that the snow used to clog the cassette and make shifting difficult was one of the reasons to go single speed (for commuting and also for mtb on the og honzo). Luckily the brakes always fulfilled their tasks without issues.
    On the apparel side, I mix warm bike pants and winter gear from other winter sports, the colder it gets, the more layers on top of each other. I use lobster gloves for really low Temps.

    What kind of boots do you use? Below - 5, warm gore tex boots are fine, but if it's around zero with slushy conditions, I use padded rubber boots and a thick pair of socks... Looks ridiculous but keeps the feet dry.

    Would these tires you use be good for winter mtb in mixed conditions as well? Are you using them on the honzo too?
    Thanks.
    Enjoy your ride!
    Shit. I missed this. Sorry for the delayed response Rynee.

    Boots - Solomon goretex X Ultra for temps above minus 10 C, and Solomon X Ultra Winter for colder temps.

    My winter riding is confined to commuting. It's just too much to add anything to it, since I commute 2 hours a day Mon-Fri and also lift pretty heavy during the winter.

    Those tires are wicked. Best tires I have ever used for winter commuting. My God. They have saved my ass in the icy downs numerous times. I honestly can't say enough good about them. They slaughter those completely shitty Schwalbe Marathons I used to run. If the 45NRTHs are a 10, the Schwalbes are a 4. The Schwalbes are a steaming pile of shit in comparison. I am so mad I listened to others...for 5 years!!!
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  174. #5974
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Shit. I missed this. Sorry for the delayed response Rynee.

    Boots - Solomon goretex X Ultra for temps above minus 10 C, and Solomon X Ultra Winter for colder temps.

    My winter riding is confined to commuting. It's just too much to add anything to it, since I commute 2 hours a day Mon-Fri and also lift pretty heavy during the winter.

    Those tires are wicked. Best tires I have ever used for winter commuting. My God. They have saved my ass in the icy downs numerous times. I honestly can't say enough good about them. They slaughter those completely shitty Schwalbe Marathons I used to run. If the 45NRTHs are a 10, the Schwalbes are a 4. The Schwalbes are a steaming pile of shit in comparison. I am so mad I listened to others...for 5 years!!!
    No worries Mike, thanks for the reply, appreciate it. Good insights regarding the tires, thanks. Those 45th are studded, right? Can you still set them up tubeless?
    Thanks

  175. #5975
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    No worries Mike, thanks for the reply, appreciate it. Good insights regarding the tires, thanks. Those 45th are studded, right? Can you still set them up tubeless?
    Thanks
    Yes and unlikely.
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  176. #5976
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    Hey guys- Iíve got mine listed for sale if anyone is shopping. Link to my Pinkbike ad:

    https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/2698524/




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  177. #5977
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    Honzo 2019 max seatpost insertion

    Hello!
    I have been looking for this info, but no luck..
    Do you know what is the maximum insertion length for a MEDIUM 2019 Honzo frame?
    I am thinking to buy but the frame alone, and I would like to use my 150mm dropper post but I am worried that the curved seat tube could stop the long dropper post to sit at the right position for my height.
    Thank you!

  178. #5978
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jingleman View Post
    Hello!
    I have been looking for this info, but no luck..
    Do you know what is the maximum insertion length for a MEDIUM 2019 Honzo frame?
    I am thinking to buy but the frame alone, and I would like to use my 150mm dropper post but I am worried that the curved seat tube could stop the long dropper post to sit at the right position for my height.
    Thank you!
    I don't know the max insertion. But I have just build up a 2019 steel honzo frame. I have a 150mm stealther reverb in (2018 model) and i can slam it all the way down. Maybe this helps.

  179. #5979
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb-remco View Post
    I don't know the max insertion. But I have just build up a 2019 steel honzo frame. I have a 150mm stealther reverb in (2018 model) and i can slam it all the way down. Maybe this helps.
    Thank you!
    which size of frame you have?

  180. #5980
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jingleman View Post
    Thank you!
    which size of frame you have?
    Same as yours, Medium.

  181. #5981
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    Well, I ordered a '20 Honzo CR frame today!!!

    i have been wanting to build a honzo for some time now, although I had always planned on an ST, i decided to go with the carbon frame since this bike will be primarily XC riding, plus I really love the color of the carbon frame!!

    Now, to start selecting components! I'm thinking i will do a Fox 34 SC fork, eagle drivetrain of some sort, and everything else is to be decided yet. I can hardly wait to ride it!!

  182. #5982
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    Gday! Im sure this has been covered but cant really find what im after, ive recently joined the SS bandwagon, running 30t oval to a18t cog, only trouble is It wont allow me to run my wheel at the rear of the dropouts where I like it, ive got a tensioner on now so I can run it back there but is there a magic gear that lets me run my wheel all the way back and have good chain tension...also, the Honzo ST may be getting geo update... shhh

  183. #5983
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    Quote Originally Posted by HonzSolo View Post
    Gday! Im sure this has been covered but cant really find what im after, ive recently joined the SS bandwagon, running 30t oval to a18t cog, only trouble is It wont allow me to run my wheel at the rear of the dropouts where I like it, ive got a tensioner on now so I can run it back there but is there a magic gear that lets me run my wheel all the way back and have good chain tension...also, the Honzo ST may be getting geo update... shhh
    Hey, I assume you're running a standard chain, and adding one more link would make the chain too long already.
    Two suggestions:
    1. Have you considered running a half link chain?
    2. You could use narrow wide front and rear (absolute black produce an 18t nw cog with a 7mm base, made of aluminum and quite lightweight).

    No idea about a magic gear. I run 34 oval x 21, but am not that sensitive as to the position of the dropouts. They end up wherever chain tension is right. Never dropped a chain or skipped a gear with kona's sliding dropouts. I had my share of pain with chain tensioners on my commuter (ie dropped chains or skipped gears) I'd never use one on an mtb.
    Hope this helps.

    Ps regarding geo: whats up?

  184. #5984
    mtbr member
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    Blackspire stinger on bottom bracket,rotate up to tension chain that is one link too long.

    https://www.blackspire.com/wp-conten...tingersAll.jpg

  185. #5985
    Wanna ride bikes?
    Reputation: *OneSpeed*'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HonzSolo View Post
    Gday! Im sure this has been covered but cant really find what im after, ive recently joined the SS bandwagon, running 30t oval to a18t cog, only trouble is It wont allow me to run my wheel at the rear of the dropouts where I like it, ive got a tensioner on now so I can run it back there but is there a magic gear that lets me run my wheel all the way back and have good chain tension...also, the Honzo ST may be getting geo update... shhh
    https://eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup.php

    https://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/...r-1040376.html

    Never use a half link chain on a SS MTB.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

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