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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by bim6180 View Post
    I donít have the weight, but when I upgraded to dt Swiss 471 with hope hub for rear, it didnít feel lighter from just lifting it. Not scientific, I know. But will give you an idea. Carbon wheels might be different.

    The ride quality, however, is different. Feels more solid.
    Interesting! I found another thread on the 29er section that claims the wheelset weighed in at 2400g. Grabbing something like the Hunt wheelset at 1820g would shave over a pound off the bike.

  2. #202
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    Based on fanatik website (where I bought my wheel set), my dt ex511 front and ex471 rear with hope hub weigh about 1973g (4.35 lbs).

  3. #203
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    My (formula on wtb st i29) wheels were about 2.4kg

    Ive swapped to mavic xa elites, which are 4mm narrower, not sure I notice the difference there.

    they are 1.8kg and I definitely notice that difference, made the bike much more agile

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    My (formula on wtb st i29) wheels were about 2.4kg

    Ive swapped to mavic xa elites, which are 4mm narrower, not sure I notice the difference there.

    they are 1.8kg and I definitely notice that difference, made the bike much more agile
    Agreed with Kimbers. The bike definitely felt more agile after I swapped to my DT Swiss. Again, as I said - my only reference is a "Lifting" test vs. actual scale. So, while my arms can't really tell the difference, the weight saving is there based on the 2.4kg weight that people has mentioned in the past.

    On being more agile, I think it's a combination of lighter and narrower wheel on mine (from 29mm ID on WTB to 25mm ID on ex471).
    Kona Process 153 29er

  5. #205
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    These are numbers for my 27.5 Process 153 CR.

    Stock WTB i29 Asym wheelset.
    1155g rear, 1001 front

    Replaced with DT Swiss EX471 rims on Hope Pro4 hubs
    Rear 1053
    Front 930

  6. #206
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    Awesome, thanks everyone. Confirmed heavy ass wheels!

  7. #207
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    Just got mine earlier this week and since the weather has been horrible I'm taking my time setting it up. Where are you all keeping tools and spare parts? I'm looking to ditch the backpack on shorter rides this year so on bike storage is back on the menu. The seat and the downtube in front of the rear shock seem like the only places that are obvious.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by officeboy View Post
    Just got mine earlier this week and since the weather has been horrible I'm taking my time setting it up. Where are you all keeping tools and spare parts? I'm looking to ditch the backpack on shorter rides this year so on bike storage is back on the menu. The seat and the downtube in front of the rear shock seem like the only places that are obvious.
    Im using a backcountry research strap. I played with a few positions and ended up using it laying on top of the toptube, butted up to the seat tube.

  9. #209
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    Well, I'm back in the Kona family. I sold my Release and picked up a Process from Jenson. I've never bought a bike from Jenson. I hope it comes almost ready to ride.

    I just bought the AL instead of the AL DL. The better brakes and eagle on the DL were tempting, but I think the AL has the better dropper post. I dont know if the extra cost was justified. Plus since it was only $1900 and right around what I sold my other bike for, it seemed like a good choice. I loved my Release. Its a fantastic bike, but I wanted to go all 29er.

    The Process has a more travel than I really need around here, but what the hell. I already have a 120mm 29er and was looking for something different. I demoed a Stumpjumper that has about as much travel and had no issues with it. It was great on our trails. Plus if I ever road trip to bigger trails, I now have the bike for them.

    I'm a clyde, not a speed demon and just ride for fun, so I dont mind a heavy bike at all. I rode a Process 153 on a demo day this past summer and I had a lot of fun on it. Can't wait to get back on one.

    I plan on riding it as is. I'll change out parts as they wear out. Only change right away will be some Fat Paw grips. The idea of an angled headset is interesting, though. The bottom bracket is plenty high, so lowering it a little wouldn't be a negative, and you could slacken the head angle by 2 degrees or a degree and a half and increase the seat tube angle. I'll ride it as is before trying anything, but it's nice to be able to follow the new geometry trends if needed.

    I'm hoping this is a good all rounder. Hopefully it will remind me a little of my old Process 111. I'd still have that bike if I didnt get a size too large for me. Nice to be back on a Kona.

  10. #210
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    Wicked! welcome to the family. I did the same thing for the AL vs. AL DL. I hated my old reverb.

  11. #211
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    Richulr,
    You're going to love it. To answer your question about it being ready to ride from Jenson, all you will need to do is put on the front wheel, set your seat height, set sag and adjust levers. I set my sag at 30% front and rear and it feels good. Enjoy the new whip! Glad it all worked out for ya.

  12. #212
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    More Sizing Questions

    All - thanks for the great information in this thread. I am about to order a 2019 Process 153 29 DL. I am just under 6-02 with a 36" inseam. I was able to sit on and parking lot test both the L and XL but due to the season here in CO can't get out for any rides on typical terrain. As with several of you I'm in between sizes. I was thinking the L was going to be the way to go but was surprised that the XL felt pretty darned good just sitting on it. But the XL is a big long bike much more so than the bike I'm coming off of. Any last minute advice from the group?

  13. #213
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    Does anyone know if the 153 CR/DL frame w/ shock are available anywhere? Not a Rock Shox fan and thinking of going a different route with a custom frame up build seeing the limited options with Kona. Most dealers have stopped selling them due to Kona fading out their best sellers in the past.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by archer1916 View Post
    All - thanks for the great information in this thread. I am about to order a 2019 Process 153 29 DL. I am just under 6-02 with a 36" inseam. I was able to sit on and parking lot test both the L and XL but due to the season here in CO can't get out for any rides on typical terrain. As with several of you I'm in between sizes. I was thinking the L was going to be the way to go but was surprised that the XL felt pretty darned good just sitting on it. But the XL is a big long bike much more so than the bike I'm coming off of. Any last minute advice from the group?
    XL, you'll get used to the length. I'm 5'10" on a large, fits just right.

  15. #215
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    Get XL. Iím the same height (a smidget under 6í2) with 34 ish inseam, and I ride XL process. Actually just switched my stem to 32mm stem and it felt even better.

    Tried L in the parking lot and felt a bit cramped actually, which I thought was weird.

  16. #216
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    Get XL. Iím the same height (a smidget under 6í2) with 34 ish inseam, and I ride XL process. Actually just switched my stem to 32mm stem and it felt even better.

    Tried L in the parking lot and felt a bit cramped actually, which I thought was weird.
    Kona Process 153 29er

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by archer1916 View Post
    All - thanks for the great information in this thread. I am about to order a 2019 Process 153 29 DL. I am just under 6-02 with a 36" inseam. I was able to sit on and parking lot test both the L and XL but due to the season here in CO can't get out for any rides on typical terrain. As with several of you I'm in between sizes. I was thinking the L was going to be the way to go but was surprised that the XL felt pretty darned good just sitting on it. But the XL is a big long bike much more so than the bike I'm coming off of. Any last minute advice from the group?
    You need to be on an XL with that inseam. On a large, you're going to have the seat post extended so high that the effective seat tube angle numbers aren't real. You'll end up with an effective seat tube angle of 74ish and the bike will feel massive.

    I know it's counter intuitive, but the XL will end up with a longer standing reach, but a much shorter seated reach. You'll get used to the longer standing reach quickly and won't notice it, you won't ever adapt to being stretched out while seated and climbing. In addition, the bike is going to climb like a bus because your weight will be too far back.

  18. #218
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    First time post

    Hi all,

    Long time reader, first time posting here, I just wanted to show my new toy:Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-img_0916-_rotjpg.jpg

    Kona Process 153 AL-DL 2018

  19. #219
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    Looks awesome. Can't wait until it warms up and drys out so I can try mine out.

  20. #220
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    very nice, I almost bought that same bike, Enjoy!!!!
    " What do you want for yourself?"

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    2019 Kona Process 153 CR/DL 29

  21. #221
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    I'm curious to see if any other owners are having the same issues with the dropper post that I am, so I thought I'd check.

    When I received my '18 Process 153 AL 29'er from Jenson, my dropper post was really low on air pressure. I pumped it up, and it started behaving more like I'd suspect it should (its my first bike with a dropper post, so it was hard to know what was normal). That was about 2 months ago.

    I noticed the dropper wasn't returning anymore when I went out to get ready for my ride tomorrow, so I checked the pressure, and it was again down (shock pump showed ~ 110 psi, when its supposed to be 220-250psi).

    I pumped it up to ~250psi, and its working better now. It still pauses quite a bit in the last 20-40mm of travel (which it has done from new), but it does at least return to full travel now, which it didn't do yesterday.

    This time I used a torque wrench to tighten the seat post clamp as well, so I am sure I didn't overtighten it.

    I only have 2 friends with dropper posts, and theirs don't seem to have problems with losing air pressure like this, nor do theirs have this sort of pause in their travel. In fact, tonight they were both over at my house wrenching on the bikes, and we used the same torque wrench to tighten the seat clamps on each bike. So I'm pretty sure I wasn't overtightening

    Anyway, is this normal behavior for a dropper post? Or does it sound faulty? Should I be reaching out to Kona to see if it is under warranty?

    Thanks for the help everyone .

  22. #222
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    Same issue here! I also got mine from Jenson. They probably had a bad batch. No need to go to Kona, Jenson can help you. They replaced mine with a OneUp!

  23. #223
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    My dropper was the same, I think that it could have an air leak because when I pumped 250 psi the dropper extended great but one week or two after the dropper started to up lower and not fully. Three weeks ago, the extension was slower and totally incomplete. The dropper then only showed around 100 psi.

    I sent the dropper to Jenson to activate the guarantee two weeks ago and I am still waiting for it...

    Barefootdan, how long do you wait for your dropper to come back?

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by antoniope View Post
    My dropper was the same, I think that it could have an air leak because when I pumped 250 psi the dropper extended great but one week or two after the dropper started to up lower and not fully. Three weeks ago, the extension was slower and totally incomplete. The dropper then only showed around 100 psi.

    I sent the dropper to Jenson to activate the guarantee two weeks ago and I am still waiting for it...

    Barefootdan, how long do you wait for your dropper to come back?
    I started the process on February 11th. I didnít need to send mine back in. They just offered to send me a OneUp immediately. Unfortunately they were out of stock until last week lol. So I just got it on Thursday (3/14)

  25. #225
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    Just got off the phone with Jenson.

    I described what has been happening with the post and its behavior, and he confirmed that it definitely isn't behaving as expected.

    He told me to take the bike to a shop, and have them take a look at it. If they can repair it for under $50, they said to just take the recepit, and they'd refund me the price. If it was over that, they said they'd likely just replace it.

    So... looks like I'm going to try to find a shop somewhere close, and hopefully get this all taken care of.

    Because having to wait 2 sec for the post to come back to full height on the trail is getting annoying.

    Just thought I'd give an update for everyone, in case they're going through the same thing (as it seems a bunch of us bought them from Jenson on their recent sale).

  26. #226
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    Fingers crossed to get the dropper this next week

  27. #227
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    If you could, let me know how it goes.

    I checked with my LBS, and found that a repair would be $100 or so (shipping it off to have it serviced), and so I called Jenson again. They said a warranty replacement is likely, and that they'd had the warranty folks call me back sometime today to discuss it.

    I looked up the OneUp dropper a bit, and it seems promising. I'm a bit nervous. There is a thread on these dropper posts here, and they say something about the cable housing needing to move to make it work correctly. With the cable housing being clamped down, I'm not sure that would work.

    I asked there, and will see if anyone has this combination (Process 153/Oneup Dropper), but thought I'd see how your install goes as well.

    Thanks .

    Edit: Just got email confirmation that I'm also getting a OneUp post as a warranty replacement. Guess we'll see how it works out once it gets here . Either way, this bike is the first time I've had to deal with warranty at Jenson, and so far, I'm super impressed. Will recommend to others in the future. They appear to have your back.
    Last edited by ocnLogan; 03-19-2019 at 03:47 PM.

  28. #228
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    Jenson has just replied me with the shipping of a new dropper hence Tranz-x couldnít be reached.


    I guess that the new dropper I am waiting for is an OneUp. I have seen some tutorials and the installation shouldnít be very different from other droppers...


    I will keep you informed


    Question for barefootdan, the OneUp came with the cable, housing and lever or plain?

  29. #229
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    Thank you for the final words of advice. I ended up ordering the XL. Just finished a week long trip to Sedona to break it in. This bike is fantastic. Once on the trail it did not seem excessively long, took tight sections as fast as I my skills can handle, climbed chunk, and railed straight line ledge descents. Pretty stoked.

  30. #230
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    I had a bad tranz x dropper as well. Started the warranty on Tuesday and they are sending me a foundation dropper. Looks like a brand new model. Just on their website with no pictures yet. It will be here on Friday. Hopefully it's better than the tranz x

  31. #231
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    Wow, looks like there really was a bad batch...

    Wonder if it was a batch from the manufacturer, or if it was due to storage, or something else?

    My Process came from Jenson with the dropper slammed all the way down (both collar on the seattube, but also the the post was at full compression). If they'd been stored like that since they came out almost a year ago, maybe thats why none of them hold air?

    Hard to know, but its interesting to see how at least 3-4 of us have had the same experience.

    Also interesting that we haven't all gotten the same replacement post. But I guess as long as they work, I'm not too picky .

    And Archer, a week long trip to Sedona to break in the new bike! That sounds amazing. I've had mine since the middle of Jan, and I've been out on it three times, for an average of maybe 1.5 - 2 hr. That's one heck of a way to get to know the new ride .

    As this is my first full suspension bike, as well as my first bike with "modern" geo, and a dropper post, felt strange for the first run or two. Now that I've got some taller handlebars on there (38mm rise Diety bars) and a few runs down familiar trails under my belt, its just starting to jell. I'm hoping once I'm all the way used to it, that I can progress a bit this season. I'm looking to clear gaps, and drops > 2-3ft (which for me, is an improvement).

  32. #232
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    Diferent droppers provided in warranty could be due to the deferent travels of Tranz-x droppers in our Konas.

    Size L Konas Tranz-x comes with 170 mm travel and size M Konas come with 150.

    Foundation dropper is 150 travel max. and OneUp is 170. It could be the reason, I guess...

  33. #233
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    Mine is a large and has the 150 I'm pretty sure it's the xl with the 170.

  34. #234
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    You have a 150mm dropper stock?

    Weird. From what I could find online, the official specs say 170mm for L and XL.

    I just went out and measured mine. I have a size large,and it's absolutely a 170mm (tape measure was just a hair over 6 5/8in, which is ~168mm).

  35. #235
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    Mine is L and comes with 170mm

  36. #236
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    You are right I thought I read that m and l came with 150 and xl came with 170. I just measured and it's 170. I'll have to call Jenson and ask why they are replacing my 170 with a 150

  37. #237
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    Let us know what they tell you

  38. #238
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    2019 CR/DL owner here and looking for chain guide fitment advice. I bought the OneUp ISCG05 chain guide and it doesn't fit. The top mount on the frame is in board by 11.5mm. The chain guide does not come with spacers or a longer bolt. OneUp sent me to Kona and Kona said tough shit(basically). No adapter, but the measurements to fabricate my own spacer. Seems stupid. Anyway, is there anyone else running a chain guide and if so were there any fitment issues. Thanks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-8gt9on2.jpg  


  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by fubuki View Post
    2019 CR/DL owner here and looking for chain guide fitment advice. I bought the OneUp ISCG05 chain guide and it doesn't fit. The top mount on the frame is in board by 11.5mm. The chain guide does not come with spacers or a longer bolt. OneUp sent me to Kona and Kona said tough shit(basically). No adapter, but the measurements to fabricate my own spacer. Seems stupid. Anyway, is there anyone else running a chain guide and if so were there any fitment issues. Thanks.
    Seems bogus. Oneup is a sponsor of kona gravity team and hereís their bike check, with the oneup guide



    http://cog.konaworld.com/kona-dream-...cess-cr-dl-29/

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by sennaster View Post
    Seems bogus. Oneup is a sponsor of kona gravity team and hereís their bike check, with the oneup guide



    Kona Dream Builds: Red Dawn, the 2019 Team Issue Process CR DL 29 | KONA COG
    That's a good damn point.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by fubuki View Post
    That's a good damn point.
    Maybe thereís some sort of spacer/bolt at the hardware store

    Something like this:

  42. #242
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    The problem is the size. It's 11.5mm. That'd probably require custom fabrication. I was looking MRP and they come with a set of spacers that are 2.5mm and 1mm, so you could build up to 11.5mm. You'd also need a longer bolt. The bolts that came with the guide are 10mm, so you'd need at least a 21mm bolt to be safe. I've found some 22mm bolts online, but without a proper spacer it's pointless.

    It just seems ridiculous that I'd have to fab up a workaround to get a chain guide to fit. I thought ISCG05 was supposed to be a standard. Why is Kona different here?

    I had an MRP on my 2015 Process 153, but I don't recall there being any fitment issues.

    I just wanted to see if others have run into this problem.

  43. #243
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    It is ridiculous. You shouldn't have to do a bunch of modifications to make it work...unless it's not the guide - but the bike.

    Have you looked at any other chain guides? Wolftooth, e*13, AbsoluteBlack, Funn, 77designz.

    I don't know if you can see anything, but here's another look:
    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-full_ltr_7460.jpg

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    It is ridiculous. You shouldn't have to do a bunch of modifications to make it work...unless it's not the guide - but the bike.

    Have you looked at any other chain guides? Wolftooth, e*13, AbsoluteBlack, Funn, 77designz.

    I don't know if you can see anything, but here's another look:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've looked really close at that picture, but you can't really tell. I've checked out all the other guides, but no mention of any fitment issues specific to the Kona.

  45. #245
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    I haven't tried to look it up again, but when I was researching the Process 153, I ran across a review that mentioned that the tabs were there. But like you have mentioned they weren't in the right location, so if you wanted to run a chain guide, you'd have to make your own spacers.

    All I guess that means, is that I'm going to guess that your bike isn't a one off, and that they're all screwed up. No idea why they bothered to put the tabs there, but in the wrong location/dimensions/etc.

    I don't forsee myself using one (I'm coming from a 3x10 setup, so this 1x with a clutched rear mech, and a narrow-wide front chainring, it already feels like I can't get the chain to come off), so it didn't stop me from buying the bike. But I agree... its just a weird thing to do, use a standard mount... but do it wrong.

  46. #246
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    So, moving to a different topic - derailleur hanger on this bike. Not sure if it's just my really really bad luck or the derailleur hanger on this bike is uber strong.... I have now broken / bent TWO RD in a year....on the same hanger... and the hanger is still in a perfect condition. (ironically on the same exact trail, within a few feet of each other....maybe I just need to avoid that trail...)

    Isn't the hanger suppose to safe the RD? One was NX RD, which was snapped in two pieces due to chain drop. The other was XT RD, due to wandering branches on the trailside that bent my cage and b-link.

    Anyone else has similar experience?
    Kona Process 153 29er

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by sennaster View Post
    Maybe thereís some sort of spacer/bolt at the hardware store

    Something like this:
    Something like that is exactly what I used. An aluminum spacer trimmed down and a longer bolt, all things we had at the shop. It was a bit of a pain and frankly something that Kona should include, but not an insurmountable issue.

  48. #248
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    Just received my replacement post (oneup). Unexpectedly, it came with a new cable, housing, and lever (the oneup lever, as you'd expect).

    Haven't installed it yet, but wanted to mention it to everyone else that is still waiting on their replacement .

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by fubuki View Post
    2019 CR/DL owner here and looking for chain guide fitment advice. I bought the OneUp ISCG05 chain guide and it doesn't fit. The top mount on the frame is in board by 11.5mm. The chain guide does not come with spacers or a longer bolt. OneUp sent me to Kona and Kona said tough shit(basically). No adapter, but the measurements to fabricate my own spacer. Seems stupid. Anyway, is there anyone else running a chain guide and if so were there any fitment issues. Thanks.
    I have the same bike, running the MRP AMg V2, No issues at all.
    " What do you want for yourself?"

    2018 Roll Comp X1
    2018 Santa Cruz HT 27.5+
    2019 Kona Process 153 CR/DL 29

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    Just received my replacement post (oneup). Unexpectedly, it came with a new cable, housing, and lever (the oneup lever, as you'd expect).

    Haven't installed it yet, but wanted to mention it to everyone else that is still waiting on their replacement .

    I have just received a foundation dropper, 150mm...

    It it seems a decent dropper but do not know why some of them get foundation and others OneUp...

    Mine was 170mm

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by antoniope View Post
    I have just received a foundation dropper, 150mm...

    It it seems a decent dropper but do not know why some of them get foundation and others OneUp...

    Mine was 170mm
    It's a mistake call them and they will fix it for you. They sent me a foundation and the guy didn't realize that the large came with a 170 dropper. They sent me a return label and will send me a replacement 170

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uwibami View Post
    I have the same bike, running the MRP AMg V2, No issues at all.
    Sweet. Just what I wanted to here. Sent the OneUp back. They told me to use a SRAM disc post mount adapter set. Stupid. MRP told me the guide comes with everything I need, but good to have validation.

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by bim6180 View Post
    So, moving to a different topic - derailleur hanger on this bike. Not sure if it's just my really really bad luck or the derailleur hanger on this bike is uber strong.... I have now broken / bent TWO RD in a year....on the same hanger... and the hanger is still in a perfect condition. (ironically on the same exact trail, within a few feet of each other....maybe I just need to avoid that trail...)

    Isn't the hanger suppose to safe the RD? One was NX RD, which was snapped in two pieces due to chain drop. The other was XT RD, due to wandering branches on the trailside that bent my cage and b-link.

    Anyone else has similar experience?
    If a stick killed it, then Im not sure a hanger would save it

    But the cheaper SRAM mechs always die on me, I had to warranty the NX on my 153 29

    As for chain guide, never fitted one, Ive had mine over a year and I think ive dropped the chain once, its done some uplift days and some tough enduro races too.

  54. #254
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    Yeah - stupid stick... Finally worked on fixing it last night and found out that the B-link actually saved my derailleur (cage looked bent, but actually not). So, put on the new b-link from the new XT mech i bought, and all is well. Keeping the new mech for spare i guess....

    In terms of chain guide - i haven't dropped my chain yet, even at the bike park, so not sure if you actually need one....
    Kona Process 153 29er

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by antoniope View Post
    I have just received a foundation dropper, 150mm...

    It it seems a decent dropper but do not know why some of them get foundation and others OneUp...

    Mine was 170mm
    Within an hour of when I dropped the foundation post at the UPS drop off I got an email from the warranty Dept saying they were shipping out the 170 oneup. So definitely call in and let them know the wrong size was sent to you.

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by sladesy View Post
    Within an hour of when I dropped the foundation post at the UPS drop off I got an email from the warranty Dept saying they were shipping out the 170 oneup. So definitely call in and let them know the wrong size was sent to you.
    Roger that.

    I will call Jenson to get my 170mm

  57. #257
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    Podium for Connor fearon on his 153 29 at the EWS & top 10 for Miranda Miller on hers, nice!

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    Podium for Connor fearon on his 153 29 at the EWS & top 10 for Miranda Miller on hers, nice!
    Oh good!

    More evidence that my lack of ability is me, and not the bike :P.

    I really only started riding last fall (Oct), and I'm hoping to progress a fair bit this summer. The weak point right now is in the air, so I've been trying to session jumps/drops to practice, I just haven't had the "epiphany" moment quite yet.

    I'm hoping to install the replacement dropper post sometime this week. Additionally, my shifting is a touch sloppy. When I do the dropper post, I'm going to see if there is some slack in the shifter cable as well. If its really bad, I may switch the cable as well.

    I think I've got a very slow leak in the rear tire (switched to tubeless recently). Lost ~5psi in a week. Is that normal/expected for tubeless. This is my first time with tubeless, so not entirely sure what to expect. When I converted to tubeless, I had 40PSI in them overnight, but I read that may not have been enough? Either way, I pumped them up to 50PSI last night, and was going to let them sit for a day or two, and see if that helps.

    And I think I'm going to order new pedals for the bike this week. I'm currently rocking a set of pedals that came with my Haro Street/BMX bike from 1999 (the only flat/platforms I had at the time to test with, as I had been riding clipless for a while). The Crank Brothers Stamp 1 is only $37 atm, and is likely what I'll be going with.

  59. #259
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    On tire pressure, it's normal to lose a little pressure on tubeless. I always pump it up and check with independent gauge before every ride.
    Kona Process 153 29er

  60. #260
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    The more I research, the more the Process 153 seems to be the best long travel 29er for me. The weight is the biggest concern. Sorry if this has been asked before, does anyone know the difference between AL and CR frames? Based on what have been posting, it seems as if there is a 2lb difference in complete bikes. It is hard to work out if that is frame. If not I will probably go with AL and a nice wheelset to offset the total weight difference.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  61. #261
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    I'm not sure on the exact difference in frames of the same size, with the same spec, but the ~2lb difference you're mentioning sounds about right.

    I mostly wanted to point out that the CR, still has AL chainstays. So the weight difference between other "full CR" bikes and their respective AL versions may not be as pronounced.

    Its a relatively heavy bike, but otherwise has been its hard to fault it too much. Myself, I'm more worried about value, and durability/longevity, so I went with the AL, and will just count the extra weight as "an attempt to further increase my fitness", as I'm not timed on anything, and ride to stay in shape/have fun.

    Good luck deciding if its the bike for you .

  62. #262
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    Anyone have experience putting a coil on their newer 153's? I'm running a 2018 AL and the stock RS Deluxe feels way over damped. I'm not able to use all of the travel even though I'm running a bit over 30% sag. I believe the linkage is fairly progressive but I'm looking to throw a RS Super Deluxe coil on. Any thoughts? Thanks so much.
    2019 Transition Sentinel
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  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    Oh good!

    More evidence that my lack of ability is me, and not the bike :P.

    I really only started riding last fall (Oct), and I'm hoping to progress a fair bit this summer. The weak point right now is in the air, so I've been trying to session jumps/drops to practice, I just haven't had the "epiphany" moment quite yet.

    I'm hoping to install the replacement dropper post sometime this week. Additionally, my shifting is a touch sloppy. When I do the dropper post, I'm going to see if there is some slack in the shifter cable as well. If its really bad, I may switch the cable as well.

    I think I've got a very slow leak in the rear tire (switched to tubeless recently). Lost ~5psi in a week. Is that normal/expected for tubeless. This is my first time with tubeless, so not entirely sure what to expect. When I converted to tubeless, I had 40PSI in them overnight, but I read that may not have been enough? Either way, I pumped them up to 50PSI last night, and was going to let them sit for a day or two, and see if that helps.

    And I think I'm going to order new pedals for the bike this week. I'm currently rocking a set of pedals that came with my Haro Street/BMX bike from 1999 (the only flat/platforms I had at the time to test with, as I had been riding clipless for a while). The Crank Brothers Stamp 1 is only $37 atm, and is likely what I'll be going with.
    Hi,
    As posted above, some leaking is to be expected with tubeless especially in the beginning. I taped all my wheels myself with various results, meaning that some tires need to be pumped up every other week, some hold their air for months. It's a bit more hazzle than with tubes, but the advantages of tubeless are well worth the effort.
    Regarding pedals: yes try something more up to date, I don't know the ones you mentioned but have had good experiences with one up comps which are rather inexpensive as well.
    Good luck with your riding season!

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Hi,
    As posted above, some leaking is to be expected with tubeless especially in the beginning. I taped all my wheels myself with various results, meaning that some tires need to be pumped up every other week, some hold their air for months. It's a bit more hazzle than with tubes, but the advantages of tubeless are well worth the effort.
    Regarding pedals: yes try something more up to date, I don't know the ones you mentioned but have had good experiences with one up comps which are rather inexpensive as well.
    Good luck with your riding season!
    Thanks for the feedback.

    As I said, I'm kind of new at this, and so are all of my riding buddies. So things like that we all say "well, mine lost some pressure too, so maybe its normal"?

    I just used the tubeless tape that was in the wheels from the factory and its seemed to work just fine so far. It just lost a few psi during the week (3-5psi maybe?). Perhaps it would be improved if I gorilla taped it, but at this point thats too much work to worry about. Perhaps in the future when I switch tires.

    As far as its advantages, I'm not so sure I've noticed much yet. In my riding since Oct, I haven't flatted once, not have I had a puncture, and thats with tubes. I think this is partially because the PNW has so few sharp rocks, and relatively few things with thorns, but also partially because I'm apparently too slow to cause rim strikes :P.

    I noticed a few on my old hardtail... but with rediculously low pressures on a 26x1.90. With these (relatively much more air volume) 29x2.4's, I'm still not having problems. Also, I used the full 4oz of sealant (OS Endurance) recommended. So I'm not sure its much/any lighter than tubes at this point. Maybe I'll notice it more as I get more time on it.

    And good luck with your season as well. Here's to hoping for progression all around .

  65. #265
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    Hi!
    Thanks as well! Haven't gotten a single mtb ride in so far due to a knee injury, so it can only get better
    Piece of advice regarding tubeless: once you've taped the rim (and before you add sealant, but i gather that's aready done), put in the tube again and pump it up nicely, and let it rest for another day or two, to ensure that the tape really sticks properly to the rim. I've had good results with this method.
    I tried tapes from Stan's and BOR with little luck, and settled on DT Swiss tape, which has been almost perfect. So far i've been using Stan's sealant exclusively, but have recently purchased a bottle of e13 sealant as it appears to be highly recommended by Maxxis for use with their tires.

  66. #266
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    Just got a 2018 AL/DL frame (size M) on sale for about $1500 brand new with a Super Deluxe rear shock. I hope I can get this built by the end of the month.

    Looking to pair this with a 160mm Lyrik with a reduced 42mm offset.

    I got really surprised by how heavy it was (9.7 lbs / 4.4 kg) but I've been told it rides lighter than it weighs. Target weight for the full build was 32 lbs but 34 lbs seems to be more realistic owing to the unexpected heft of the frame.

    Anything I need to do / check with the frame before I start with the build?

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by Verbl Kint View Post
    Just got a 2018 AL/DL frame (size M) on sale for about $1500 brand new with a Super Deluxe rear shock. I hope I can get this built by the end of the month.

    Looking to pair this with a 160mm Lyrik with a reduced 42mm offset.

    I got really surprised by how heavy it was (9.7 lbs / 4.4 kg) but I've been told it rides lighter than it weighs. Target weight for the full build was 32 lbs but 34 lbs seems to be more realistic owing to the unexpected heft of the frame.

    Anything I need to do / check with the frame before I start with the build?

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

    Nice!

    yeah its never light, but pedals very well, I use mine as an all day bike with a decent wheelset

    only advice would be get some frame protection on the seat stays, especially, as its wide and you get some heel rub

    this stuff is great

    https://www.allmountainstyle.com/col...guards-xl-size

  68. #268
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    gorgeous, mate, congrats!
    grease the insides of the headtube and bottom bracket before you press in the bearing shells...and any threads before you apply the screws.
    and if you're unsure about stack and reach, leave some steerer tube length for experimenting.
    finally, if you want to slacken it out further, consider a works components degree headset...there's recently been an initial review posted on nsmb.com
    enjoy the build!

  69. #269
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    Has anyone here used a Works angled headset? I'd love to hear impressions.

  70. #270
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    Everyone is creaming their pants over the Druid but the impressions that I read were just luke warm. Doesnt appear to be a game changer.

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by richulr View Post
    Has anyone here used a Works angled headset? I'd love to hear impressions.
    I don't have one on my P153 but I've got them on a couple of other bikes and they are great. Just order well in advance of when you need it - they are a 1-man show and sometimes it takes a few weeks before certain headsets are back in stock. And take your time and be patient during installation to make sure you get the cups lined up properly.

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by richulr View Post
    Has anyone here used a Works angled headset? I'd love to hear impressions.
    Not me, but I'm considering one for my honzo. @rideeverything has one in his honzo St 2019, he seems to be very happy.
    If you go through the comments in that nsmb.com article, you will see that Andrew major mentions that the cups have above average insertion depth inside the head tube. The stack height also increases (depending on the model) so the available steerer tube length needs to be sufficient. Other than that, it seems to be the best way to upfork an existing bike while not changing the seat angle and bb height by a drastic amount (depending on the additional fork travel obviously).

  73. #273
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    But 66 degree angle is not enought?


    Iím very happy than my process, is the best bike Iíve Ever ride!

    In my opinion the longer reach balancing perfectly from the not extreme slacker steer tube angle

    My bike weight 15.5 kilos but every ride is an happy ride!

    After the climb iím not enought tired for the dh


    Sorry for my English

  74. #274
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    I love my Process as is too. The current geometry is probably better for my trails than slacking it out. But I'm still interested in hearing impressions from anyone that's done it.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by richulr View Post
    I love my Process as is too. The current geometry is probably better for my trails than slacking it out. But I'm still interested in hearing impressions from anyone that's done it.
    Perfect!

    Whit 65 degree angle this bike is like a dh bike!!!!


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  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    Nice!

    yeah its never light, but pedals very well, I use mine as an all day bike with a decent wheelset

    only advice would be get some frame protection on the seat stays, especially, as its wide and you get some heel rub

    this stuff is great

    https://www.allmountainstyle.com/col...guards-xl-size

    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    gorgeous, mate, congrats!
    grease the insides of the headtube and bottom bracket before you press in the bearing shells...and any threads before you apply the screws.
    and if you're unsure about stack and reach, leave some steerer tube length for experimenting.
    finally, if you want to slacken it out further, consider a works components degree headset...there's recently been an initial review posted on nsmb.com
    enjoy the build!

    Thanks for the encouragement, guys! I actually felt a tinge of buyer's remorse when I saw the scale go past 8.5 lbs and even zoom past 9 lbs. I'm a little dude at 5'6" and 140 lbs so the weight is a bit of a concern.

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by Verbl Kint View Post
    I got really surprised by how heavy it was (9.7 lbs / 4.4 kg) but I've been told it rides lighter than it weighs.
    I used to care about bike weight. Last time I sold a bike, the guy calls and says "what's it weigh?"... to which I responded "I dunno. Never weighed it. I built it to ride. It weighs what it weighs"
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  78. #278
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    Looking at this bike to couple with my 130/120, 29er. Looking for a bigger bike for days in Sedona, Moab GC and St George type riding. Iím wondering how is does up step rocky punchy tech climbs. As well as how it does in slow downhill tech moves

    I can mitigate the weight be swaping our to a lighter wheelset and tires that I have.

    Trails is usw the bike in would be THE, Mag7. Capt Ahab. Ribbon, Gunny Hiline and Hogs

    I know this bike was designed or PNW riding. Just curious how it would do in SW tech

  79. #279
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    Any feedback on the formula hubs on the base CR model? I know that formula is a large manufacturer that are sold under a lot of brand names. Are these particular hubs decent or should I look to upgrade right away?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  80. #280
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    Another problem with my brand new process 153 AL,

    today I pumped air into the rear wheel, tubeless with sealant, and I realised that the juncture of the rim is a little bit open and there is a leak that the sealant cannot seal. The thing is that the rim cannot reach more than 1.5 bar before starting leaking...

    I have contacted Jenson, to ask for a solution... but it seem that the rims are far from being heavy duty.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-7719c6a1-a43d-48e5-a5d0-e43a604d0fa4.jpg  

    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-67bcce19-0228-47e4-97e8-4919bd890b16.jpg  


  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by antoniope View Post
    Another problem with my brand new process 153 AL,

    today I pumped air into the rear wheel, tubeless with sealant, and I realised that the juncture of the rim is a little bit open and there is a leak that the sealant cannot seal. The thing is that the rim cannot reach more than 1.5 bar before starting leaking...

    I have contacted Jenson, to ask for a solution... but it seem that the rims are far from being heavy duty.
    Gorilla tape? I had a rim that was doing the same thing and leaking from the seam, and after a gorilla re-tape and fresh Trucker-co fluid, it was fixed.


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  82. #282
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    Hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by Stu Pidassle View Post
    Any feedback on the formula hubs on the base CR model? I know that formula is a large manufacturer that are sold under a lot of brand names. Are these particular hubs decent or should I look to upgrade right away?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    I myself have not ridden/ used formula hubs but know a few guys that have had them come on their bikes as part of the stock build and they seem to be a weak link for the bike, sort of like the cheap novatec hubs Santa Cruz used for a while. I would replace as soon as I could.

  83. #283
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    Five0 I have about 200 miles on my new Process 153 CR. I love the bike. I only get one bike and it has to do it all and this thing is not letting me down. I am 6-02 and around 205 lbs ride ready on an XL frame so weight is not a primary factor as it would be perhaps if I was on smaller frame. I have ridden several of the trails you list but not yet on this bike. I can not imagine it wouldn't do well and be better than anything I have ridden prior. What I did ride on it in Sedona a couple of weeks ago I felt it was really good at on that terrain. I have been surprised that for an XL with a long wheelbase it still feels maneuverable, but of course you may be on a different plane than me and require something different. My only comparison is to a Hightower LT I rode in Moab and I prefer the feel of the Process over similar (if not exact trails) terrain.

  84. #284
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    I put a thread of loctite glue (flexible) in and out of the seam and it seems that the problem is solved.

    Anyway, I will be eyes opened and in case of leaking, I will retape with gorilla tape all the way up

  85. #285
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    Just swapped the RS Deluxe out for the new Marzocchi Bomber CR with a Fox SLS coil. Actually feels really good thus far. Will spend a few days dialing things in, but it seems to be a good option for a coil on a budget.

    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-img_20190501_164123.jpg
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  86. #286
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    I am extremely interested in hearing your ride impressions of the Marzocchi. Been wondering about that shock for awhile now. Keep us updated.

  87. #287
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    Looks great, I am planning to do thew same on mine. Did you increased the travel? I hear a gossip that this frame allows 5mm more travel on the shock and that converts to 165mm travel on the wheel.

    Cheers

    L

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eluiso View Post
    Looks great, I am planning to do thew same on mine. Did you increased the travel? I hear a gossip that this frame allows 5mm more travel on the shock and that converts to 165mm travel on the wheel.

    Cheers

    L
    I don't know about the 29er version but on my medium 27.5 you could go to 2.5mm more travel on the shock for 160mm wheel travel but the extra 2.5mm 65mm trunnion caused the rocker to contact the frame.

  89. #289
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    Thanks all! I did not try to increase travel, just running a 205x60 setup on the Marzocchi. I'll try to update after I get some extended experience.
    2019 Transition Sentinel
    2018 Kona Process 153 AL

  90. #290
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    I'm setting up the stock wheelset of my Process 153 AL 29 as a DH/bike park set, using a 29x2.5 Assegai DH on the front. Now, what I'm struggling with is finding options for the rear wheel. So far I've found DHRII 2.4 in DH casing - does it fit in the frame mounted on 30mm rims? All other options seems to be even wider, and I'm uncertain if even a 2.4 would fit with sufficient clearance. Any input or suggestions on a good rear tire for a DH setup?

  91. #291
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    Anyone know if a 29x2.5 Maxxis Aggressor will fit in the back on the stock rims? I'm looking for something a little faster rolling than the DHF for summer.

  92. #292
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    No idea on if the aggressor will fit back there. But I'm thinking I'll likely be replacing the rear DHF with a 2.4in WTB Trail Boss. I hear they measure a bit narrow, but they look to be pretty decent pedaling, but also have big shoulder knobs, and come in a tough casing.

    I'm going to replace the front DHF with the WTB Vigilante in 2.5 or 2.6in widths (which, I hear actually measure larger than advertised) when it wears out.

    I did just order some TRP Quadiems from WWC, so that will be a pretty decent upgrade from my current Level T's .

  93. #293
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    Got it back in November, my first bike and it's been awesome.
    Not light but neither am I and that's ok.

    Recently I've been making some upgrades as needed or I felt could be improved so here's my list so far.

    Installed Charger 2 RCT3 damper
    Code R brakes
    Spank Spike 350 Vibrocore wheels
    Now have a 2.4wt DHR 2 on the back, Which just barely clears even though Kona states they set it up for that size tire from Maxxis to be the largest to run.
    2.6 Bontrager XR5 on the front
    150mm volt saddle
    Deity Topside handlebar
    XX1 Gold chain
    30T Aluminum chainring(For now)

    And it's been riding way better with the new wheels, kills some of the chatter of the trail here in SoCal.

    Put a solid dent in the i29 that came with it some how.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  94. #294
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    finally finished her

    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-resized_20190521_163625_9388.jpgDedicated Kona 153 29er forum-resized_20190521_163717_4043.jpg

    2019 CR/DL 29

    Renthal 35 Carbon Fatbars
    Renthal Apex Stem
    Chris King Headset
    Chromag Grips and saddle
    MRP Ramp Control / Bash Guard and Chain guide
    Ice Tech Rotors
    I9 Enduro 305 wheelset with Hydra Hubs
    Wolftooth Seatpost Clamp
    Raceface Crank Protectors
    Wah Wah 2 Pedals

    I love this thing, not bad for a 55 yr. old man.
    " What do you want for yourself?"

    2018 Roll Comp X1
    2018 Santa Cruz HT 27.5+
    2019 Kona Process 153 CR/DL 29

  95. #295
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    Mogollon - were you able to swap out the hardware (bushings) from the stock shock onto the Marz or did you have to buy new?

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by Five0 View Post
    Looking at this bike to couple with my 130/120, 29er. Looking for a bigger bike for days in Sedona, Moab GC and St George type riding. Iím wondering how is does up step rocky punchy tech climbs. As well as how it does in slow downhill tech moves

    I can mitigate the weight be swaping our to a lighter wheelset and tires that I have.

    Trails is usw the bike in would be THE, Mag7. Capt Ahab. Ribbon, Gunny Hiline and Hogs

    I know this bike was designed or PNW riding. Just curious how it would do in SW tech
    Five0,
    I got my new Process a couple of weeks ago. Many of the trails that I ride are tight, technical and rocky with short steep sections that usually include navigating some sort of obstacle. I am very happy with how responsive the handling is for a bike with this much travel. I have not had to make any adjustments to my riding technique as a result of the new bike. It handles the terrain that you are asking about with no issue.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  97. #297
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    Does anyone have a link to a good Derailuer hanger for the 2018 process? I cant seem to find anything outside of what kona sells on their parts store.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by JN29 View Post
    Does anyone have a link to a good Derailuer hanger for the 2018 process? I cant seem to find anything outside of what kona sells on their parts store.


    Bikeman Kona Derailleur Hanger TT V5TT

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooledup View Post
    Sweet, thanks. Part #s match up to Konas so I'll order that up.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  100. #300
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    What water bottle cage + bottle are you guys running on your Process 29'ers? So far I've only tried a standard side loaded cage + a regular 620ml Camelbak bottle, and it's not even close to room enough for that combo in my AL size large.

    Would love a cage that fits in the frame with a 620ml bottle without any modifications or a hard time getting the bottle in and out.

  101. #301
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    Elite Cannibal with a 22oz. purist bottle
    Last edited by Uwibami; 06-07-2019 at 05:21 AM. Reason: add info
    " What do you want for yourself?"

    2018 Roll Comp X1
    2018 Santa Cruz HT 27.5+
    2019 Kona Process 153 CR/DL 29

  102. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnroyal View Post
    Anyone know if a 29x2.5 Maxxis Aggressor will fit in the back on the stock rims? I'm looking for something a little faster rolling than the DHF for summer.
    I tried that tire on my '18 153 29er AL and it was okay in dry, dusty conditions but rubbed badly in any kind of moisture. I've run the 2.4 DHRII on the rear and it was fine. I'm pretty much sticking to 2.3s now so I don't have to worry about it.
    I've been running Bontrager XR5s with a 2.3 in the rear and a 2.5 in the front. I've been happy with the traction and they're quire a bit lighter than the DHF/DHRII combo I've run in the past.

  103. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jiv View Post
    What water bottle cage + bottle are you guys running on your Process 29'ers? So far I've only tried a standard side loaded cage + a regular 620ml Camelbak bottle, and it's not even close to room enough for that combo in my AL size large.

    Would love a cage that fits in the frame with a 620ml bottle without any modifications or a hard time getting the bottle in and out.
    I'm running a Lyzene Flow SL (left hand because I like to keep my rear brake and shifter in-hand while drinking) that I modified to slide lower by opening up the mounting holes with a dremel tool - slotting them longer. The bottle and cage now sits very close to my shock (a Fox DPX2) and fits a Camelbak 24 oz bottle (710 ml is the conversion on that.)

  104. #304
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    Looking to replace the 160mm Lyrik on '19 CR/DL 29 with a 170mm Lyrik and I'm on the fence about the offset. Current offset is 51mm, but I can get it in 42mm as well. I imagine the 10mm in travel increase will probably slacken the HT by around .5 deg, so I'm leaning towards the 42mm offset. I'm mostly riding bike park, so not a lot of climbing. Thoughts?

  105. #305
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    Doesnít a 170 air spring rod just drop in to the 160 Lyrik 29?

  106. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Doesnít a 170 air spring rod just drop in to the 160 Lyrik 29?
    It does. I'm working a trade in on my current fork, so I'm upgrading to the 2020 Ultimate.

  107. #307
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    Thinking about picking up a Marzocchi Bomber CR coil shock for bike park days, but new to this whole coil thing. I know the size of the shock, 205mm x 60 mm trunnion mount, no problems there. But, do I need to get any mounting hardware? And what spring length to get? I'm around 95kg fully kitted, so I'm thinking a spring rate of 500 would be good, maybe 550.

  108. #308
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    I've been reading reviews and watched a few things on youtube about the 153 29er, but a lot of them say it doesn't descend that well. As in it stays really high in the travel and gets knocked around a lot. What do you guys think??? Is that something a big, adjustable shock like an X2 could fix, or maybe some custom tuning on the Super Deluxe?? I'm liking the geometry of the large and like the fact 100% of the reviews say it climbs well!

    Regarding the Works Components headsets... yes! They're great. I have a -1 deg headset in my Carbine 29 and a +7mm reach adjust headset in my 951Evo.

    If I switch to a carbon 153, I plan on ordering a -1 deg headset from them.
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  109. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    I've been reading reviews and watched a few things on youtube about the 153 29er, but a lot of them say it doesn't descend that well. As in it stays really high in the travel and gets knocked around a lot. What do you guys think??? Is that something a big, adjustable shock like an X2 could fix, or maybe some custom tuning on the Super Deluxe?? I'm liking the geometry of the large and like the fact 100% of the reviews say it climbs well!
    I never felt that it didnt descent well. By far one of my most confident inspiring bikes on the trails. The stock Super Deluxe DID feel lacking compared to the fork though.This isnt to say it descended badly. Just that the rear wasnt up to par. I swapped in a DVO Topaz and boy was it NICE. Very supple and still pedaled up without the use of the climb switch. I am in AZ so we have chunky climbs and not very many service roads. I sold my Kona a couple months back only do to the weight (I had the base 153 AL build). If I ever see a carbon frame for sale, I plan to jump on it immediately!

  110. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    I've been reading reviews and watched a few things on youtube about the 153 29er, but a lot of them say it doesn't descend that well. As in it stays really high in the travel and gets knocked around a lot. What do you guys think??? Is that something a big, adjustable shock like an X2 could fix, or maybe some custom tuning on the Super Deluxe?? I'm liking the geometry of the large and like the fact 100% of the reviews say it climbs well!

    Regarding the Works Components headsets... yes! They're great. I have a -1 deg headset in my Carbine 29 and a +7mm reach adjust headset in my 951Evo.

    If I switch to a carbon 153, I plan on ordering a -1 deg headset from them.
    I read tons of reviews as well. I didn't interpret any of the reviews as saying the bike didn't descend well, but rather I took them to mean that the bike was more into "fun" than it was descending fast (which I took to mean, it may not be the best race bike).

    Its my first full suspension bike, but I've demo'd a few more recently. I rode a Canyon Spectral CF 9, Pivot Mach 5.5, Transition Smuggler, and Diamondback Mission 2 each for about an hour. I will say that as my bike is stock (Base model AL 29'er), it doesn't ride as smoothly as some of the other bikes I rode. The Pivot in particular was more of a "magic carpet". I'd say it descended most similarly to the Canyon out of that group.

    Keep in mind though, that I'm comparing a $3k USD bike, to a $6500 USD Pivot. The Pivot also runs 2.6in wide tires, which would quiet the trail chatter to some degree as well.

    I've also thought about trying a -1 headset, as well as a 170mm air shaft in the fork, although I'm not 100% certain on the total effect of the changes that would have to the geometry.

    Anyway, I'd at least try to grab a demo on one, as I've been quite happy with mine.

  111. #311
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    Id say that the suspension isnt as smooth descending as it was on my old 153, BUT it handles steeper terrain better & faster

    AND after I replaced the monarch with a DPX2 I was able to find a much better feel

    Love the bike, last ride was Sunday, Ive been dying to get back out every day since!

  112. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    I've been reading reviews and watched a few things on youtube about the 153 29er, but a lot of them say it doesn't descend that well. As in it stays really high in the travel and gets knocked around a lot. What do you guys think??? Is that something a big, adjustable shock like an X2 could fix, or maybe some custom tuning on the Super Deluxe?? I'm liking the geometry of the large and like the fact 100% of the reviews say it climbs well!

    Regarding the Works Components headsets... yes! They're great. I have a -1 deg headset in my Carbine 29 and a +7mm reach adjust headset in my 951Evo.

    If I switch to a carbon 153, I plan on ordering a -1 deg headset from them.
    I would offer that someone suggesting that the Process 153 doesn't go downhill well either hasn't actually ridden one or has a poor/skewed frame of reference. I find that this bike goes downhill VERY well, and goes uphill well - for what it is; a big, heavy Enduro bike. The stock Deluxe shock on my AL/DL 29er was absolute garbage but there are a lot of other options that fit. I have a DPX2 on my bike that I really like, but you could also run an X2, DVO Topaz, DHX2 (with some custom work), Marzocchi Bomber Coil, or even a Push 11-6.

  113. #313
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    Yep the deluxe RT shock shouldn't be fitted to any bike ever. Swapping my 27.5 CR 153 to a DPX2 made it a hell of a lot better.

    I guess from a kinematics point of view, the leverage hump at the start of the curve probably doesn't help the Kona win points for traction compared to frames that have better shock breakaway characteristics. I also found the 425 chainstays to make weighing the front end a little harder and drifting more difficult when required. When the back wheel breaks loose, it lets go hard - which caught me be surprise a few times. If you were super serious about racing, there might be quicker bikes particularly for less confident or aggressive riders, but in terms of bang for buck and getting a robust, sensible Enduro complete bike for the cost of a boutique frame then it is very hard to go past the Process.

    FWIW, the build quality on those frame and the features/design of the pivots make some very expensive boutique frames look terrible.

  114. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by toodles View Post
    Yep the deluxe RT shock shouldn't be fitted to any bike ever. Swapping my 27.5 CR 153 to a DPX2 made it a hell of a lot better.

    I guess from a kinematics point of view, the leverage hump at the start of the curve probably doesn't help the Kona win points for traction compared to frames that have better shock breakaway characteristics. I also found the 425 chainstays to make weighing the front end a little harder and drifting more difficult when required. When the back wheel breaks loose, it lets go hard - which caught me be surprise a few times. If you were super serious about racing, there might be quicker bikes particularly for less confident or aggressive riders, but in terms of bang for buck and getting a robust, sensible Enduro complete bike for the cost of a boutique frame then it is very hard to go past the Process.

    FWIW, the build quality on those frame and the features/design of the pivots make some very expensive boutique frames look terrible.
    Out of curiosity, what did you like about the change?

    This is my first FS bike... but so far I have no complaints about the shock. But perhaps thats just because I don't know any better?

    And I agree on the short chainstays. They're fun, and make it easier to manual/wheelie/etc, and do help make it pretty maneuverable. But the bike does want you to ride it hard to get the weight out front. And then, the back does want to drift pretty easily.

    I do also think that is why the reviews tend to say its more a "fun" than "fast" bike, as I think riding 10/10's on this bike would be harder for me (a regular guy). But thats fine for me, as I ride for fun, and never really approach 10/10's anyway.

  115. #315
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    The DPX2 I put on bumped the travel a little bit more, so I could run more sag and get better traction. I felt like on the Deluxe RT that the rebound adjustment was affecting the compression somehow and that also the "Open" position was too open for my preference. The DPX2 has a LSC adjuster inside the 3 position switch so I was able to get it just the way I wanted for trail feedback and cornering support. As a result it was just a more confidence inspiring ride and let me get a bit more out of the bike as it seemed more predictable and consistent.

    Apparently the Super Deluxe works well, but they were unavailable when I was looking to replace the Deluxe.

  116. #316
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    Hi everyone, potential new Kona rider here. I currently have a trance 27.5 alloy, ready to roll itís 13.2kg so the weight of the Process even in the carbon is a bit of a shock to me. Iím looking at the 153 29 CR model. How do people find it climbs with the extra beef? My normal rides are a loop with a couple of short but technical climbs. How does it go as a trail bike? I occasionally have a crack at a local Enduro but am nowhere near the pointy end of the field.

    Has anyone weighed the stock wheelset?

  117. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anth08 View Post
    Hi everyone, potential new Kona rider here. I currently have a trance 27.5 alloy, ready to roll itís 13.2kg so the weight of the Process even in the carbon is a bit of a shock to me. Iím looking at the 153 29 CR model. How do people find it climbs with the extra beef? My normal rides are a loop with a couple of short but technical climbs. How does it go as a trail bike? I occasionally have a crack at a local Enduro but am nowhere near the pointy end of the field.

    Has anyone weighed the stock wheelset?
    I have about a month on my 153 cr and really like it as an agile long travel trail bike. The bike is around the same weight as the one it replaced. It handles technical climbs very well and doesn't feel heavy in the heat of the battle. Being a biggish travel bike it isn't the fastest on long grinders.

    I ditched the oem wheels immediately so I don't know their weight.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  118. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anth08 View Post
    Hi everyone, potential new Kona rider here. I currently have a trance 27.5 alloy, ready to roll itís 13.2kg so the weight of the Process even in the carbon is a bit of a shock to me. Iím looking at the 153 29 CR model. How do people find it climbs with the extra beef? My normal rides are a loop with a couple of short but technical climbs. How does it go as a trail bike? I occasionally have a crack at a local Enduro but am nowhere near the pointy end of the field.

    Has anyone weighed the stock wheelset?
    I use mine exclusively as a trail bike, and have no issues with it. It's my first FS bike,and I know it's heavy, but the weight doesn't seem to be noticeable to me.

    The pedaling platform is actually pretty good. I only bother to lockout the suspension on longer /non technical climbs. Otherwise I don't really notice it much.

    I came from a 26in hardtail xc bike... And the climbing isn't noticeably worse Imo. Admittedly though, I haven't compared times,so it could very well be slower than the hardtail. I just haven't felt it enough to care to check, if that tells you anything.

    I have no idea on the stock wheels, sorry :/.

  119. #319
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    stock wheels on my 2018 were 2.4kg

    replacing them improved the feel & handling loads

  120. #320
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    Thanks. What size are people around 174cm (5í8.5) riding? I sat on the Medium in store and it felt good, not able to ride a demo so I took a sight 29 for a demo ride to get the feel for the big wheels and the medium felt too small, especially seated. Pretty sure the Kona is longer as the effective top tube on the sight came up about 25mm shorter than stated

    Wound anyone be able to tell me the actual horizontal measurement from the centre of the top of the head tube to the centre of the seatpost?

  121. #321
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    174cm on a medium here and it's spot on

    But I suppose it depends on arm length too

    I'll try & measure later

  122. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    I've been reading reviews and watched a few things on youtube about the 153 29er, but a lot of them say it doesn't descend that well. As in it stays really high in the travel and gets knocked around a lot. What do you guys think??? Is that something a big, adjustable shock like an X2 could fix, or maybe some custom tuning on the Super Deluxe?? I'm liking the geometry of the large and like the fact 100% of the reviews say it climbs well!
    Remove the volume spacers on the Super Deluxe and it will descend the same way as many enjurow plow bikes. The drawback there is that it will not climb as well.

    My solution here is simple, remove the volume spacers and engage the lockout whenever I need to do long climbs.

  123. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anth08 View Post
    How do people find it climbs with the extra beef? My normal rides are a loop with a couple of short but technical climbs. How does it go as a trail bike? I occasionally have a crack at a local Enduro but am nowhere near the pointy end of the field.
    I find the P53 to be an excellent technical climber on account of the soft/active suspension. There is one short trail I use as a benchmark that has a really tricky climb and the P53 is the only bike on which I cleared it.

    The P53 does suffer on easy/non-technical climbs due to weight and the active suspension. I added a coil shock (without a lockout lever) which make this even more noticeable. But I didn't buy the bike with any intention of it being a fast climber so I'm happy.

    On a side note, Jenson is no longer replacing the defective TranzX dropper posts sight unseen. I had to send mine back to them earlier this week. I'll post back here with how it gets resolved.

  124. #324
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    Anyone have complete build weight with the carbon version?
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  125. #325
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    Just thought I'd leave this here for everyone.

    I just picked up a side loading bottle cage, and a 24oz camelback podium bottle that was on sale at jenson. I thought I'd be ok, as the reviews all say it should fit a bottle just fine .

    It wasn't.

    I've got a Large AL model, and it doesn't even come close to fitting. Its at least an inch too tall. Maybe they only meant the carbon versions could fit bottles?

    The plan was to add the bottle cage for longer rides, as I'm a thirsty person (usually going through my full 3L camelback bladder in 2-3hr rides, even if I'm hydrated beforehand). Looks like I'll have to find a substantially smaller bottle if I'm going to do that.

    Anyone know of any water bottles that are < 8in in height?

  126. #326
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    Wow, I thought it was only an issue for frames smaller than a L. That sucks. I tried the Wolftooth cage adapters but it didnít work well for my Med frame, but maybe it would on a large.

    I read there is a Blackburn or other cage & bottle combo that
    might work but I didnít want to spend $50+ to do it.

  127. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    I've got a Large AL model, and it doesn't even come close to fitting. Its at least an inch too tall. Maybe they only meant the carbon versions could fit bottles?
    I've got a Large 2019 AL/DL. With a Specialized Zee cage I can fit the short (20 oz?) Specialized water bottle. The regular-sized (24 oz?) specialized bottles fit, but it's tight, with some contact, so I only use the short bottles...

  128. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by XenoVelo View Post
    I've got a Large 2019 AL/DL. With a Specialized Zee cage I can fit the short (20 oz?) Specialized water bottle. The regular-sized (24 oz?) specialized bottles fit, but it's tight, with some contact, so I only use the short bottles...
    Hey, thanks for the tip! It looks like the 21oz bottle is the "little big mouth"? I just might pick one of those up, and see if it fits in my current cage. If not, I can always spring for the Zee cage.

    Also, how did you manage the cables under the bottle cage? I was looking at that the other night, wasn't sure what I'd do with it. Thought I might as well ask .

  129. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    Hey, thanks for the tip! It looks like the 21oz bottle is the "little big mouth"? I just might pick one of those up, and see if it fits in my current cage. If not, I can always spring for the Zee cage.

    Also, how did you manage the cables under the bottle cage? I was looking at that the other night, wasn't sure what I'd do with it. Thought I might as well ask .
    Yeah, the little big mouth, or similar bottles, should work.

    I bolted my bottle cage on top of the cable guides. If I recall correctly, I needed longer bolts than the ones that came stock for the guides.

  130. #330
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    I just took off the guides and tucked the cables in behind my cage. They seem to be staying put fine.

  131. #331
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    She's about done. Upgrades are:

    -Santa Cruz Reserve 30 wheels with I9 hubs
    -RS Lyrik Ultimate 170
    -CushCore inserts
    -Continental Der Kaiser Projekt tires
    -Renthal Fatbar Carbon
    -Renthal Apex stem
    -MRP AMg guide

    I'm currently looking into rear shock upgrades. Maybe coil. Haven't decided yet.


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-g6dj8fel.jpg  


  132. #332
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    Joining the club!!! Bike feels awesome and the fit is amazing, super excited about this bike!

    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-2019-07-04-07.21.24.jpg
    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-2019-07-04-07.21.33.jpg
    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-2019-07-04-07.21.38.jpg

  133. #333
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    How many people here tried the 27.5 before deciding on the 29er 153? Is there a massive difference in the ride or does the 29 retain the playful character just with better rollover? Iím interested in making the jump to 29 but 27.5 is familiar to me and currently much better pricing for the same buikds as they were less popular.

  134. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anth08 View Post
    How many people here tried the 27.5 before deciding on the 29er 153? Is there a massive difference in the ride or does the 29 retain the playful character just with better rollover? Iím interested in making the jump to 29 but 27.5 is familiar to me and currently much better pricing for the same buikds as they were less popular.
    I had a 2015 Process 27.5 prior to my 29r and I wouldn't go back. There's a bit of a learning curve to adjust to the bigger wheels, but once you do it's fine. The bike is still plenty playful, but so much faster.

  135. #335
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    Rode two Pivots today. Rode the 429 and the Firebird 29. Liked the Firebird better out of the two, but liked my Process more than both. Such a steal from Jenson.

  136. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anth08 View Post
    How many people here tried the 27.5 before deciding on the 29er 153? Is there a massive difference in the ride or does the 29 retain the playful character just with better rollover? Iím interested in making the jump to 29 but 27.5 is familiar to me and currently much better pricing for the same buikds as they were less popular.
    I rode both 27.5 and 29 - I feel with 27.5 I'm "on top" of the bike and more "inside" the bike with the 29. Otherwise would have picked up the carbon 27.5 from Jenson as it was such a good deal but went with the Al/Dl 29 instead because it felt so much better to me.

  137. #337
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    Thanks, how tall are you for reference? Iím currently cry much on top of my current 27.5 trance. The 570mm stack might have something to do with that even most 27.5 bikes are at least 30mm higher up front

  138. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anth08 View Post
    Thanks, how tall are you for reference? Iím currently cry much on top of my current 27.5 trance. The 570mm stack might have something to do with that even most 27.5 bikes are at least 30mm higher up front
    6 ft but short inseam for my height - 32. I ride a large and my legs barely clear the dropper, but it is a 170.

  139. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnroyal View Post
    I find the P53 to be an excellent technical climber on account of the soft/active suspension. There is one short trail I use as a benchmark that has a really tricky climb and the P53 is the only bike on which I cleared it.

    The P53 does suffer on easy/non-technical climbs due to weight and the active suspension. I added a coil shock (without a lockout lever) which make this even more noticeable. But I didn't buy the bike with any intention of it being a fast climber so I'm happy.

    On a side note, Jenson is no longer replacing the defective TranzX dropper posts sight unseen. I had to send mine back to them earlier this week. I'll post back here with how it gets resolved.
    Just following up on my prior post - it's now been 39 days and no sign of a replacement post from Jenson despite my sending the TranzX post back to them a month ago. I have spent many thousands of dollars with them over the years so I am pretty disappointed in their lack of customer service on this.

    All that said, I still love the bike.

  140. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anth08 View Post
    How many people here tried the 27.5 before deciding on the 29er 153? Is there a massive difference in the ride or does the 29 retain the playful character just with better rollover? Iím interested in making the jump to 29 but 27.5 is familiar to me and currently much better pricing for the same buikds as they were less popular.
    You can do what I did and just keep a 27.5 wheel at the back for a mullet build. I'm 5'7" and ride a medium.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/kona/kona-pr...d-1100874.html

  141. #341
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    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-img_4555.jpg

    Slapped a DPX2 on it. It was the last 205x60 on jenson on sale so I figured it was meant to be. Definitely a noticeable upgrade, way less bob than the deluxe RT.

  142. #342
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    I have buyed an superdeluxe select + on ebay formula 250 dollar
    This is an OEMshock but I don't know how is the compression and rebound tune

    Inviato dal mio SM-A505FN utilizzando Tapatalk

  143. #343
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    Iíve just noticed a subtle spec change on the 2020 153 CR, 29 models come with a DPX2 with compression adjust only, not 3 pos + lsc like the 27.5. Not sure what the reason for the different step on the different bikes but it does mean no on the fly adjustment as there is no lever on the 29 shock. In my mind this makes it lower spec than the 27.5. Until last week the spec was showing the 3 pos shock. Iím in Aus so not sure if the spec is global.

    Interested to know if people find the climb switch useful on the 29?

  144. #344
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    I have a dpx2 3pos on my 153 29

    I only use the firm on long steep climbs
    But I use the trail mode quite a bit, the open setting is brilliant on the descents, the LSC allows me to get it setup with the perfect combo of grip Vs plush Vs support

  145. #345
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    Because I didn't find something when doing my research regarding a new shock, I post my experiences with the Suntour Triair in my Process 153 AL 29.

    I weigh in at 165lbs with all gear. I found my sweet spot with the main chamber pressure set to 200psi, IFP pressure to 220psi with 3 spacers in the positive chamber and 1 in the negative chamber. But I use the monarch spacers, don't know if they have the same volume as the ones from Suntour/DVO.
    Without any spacers it was supple with a lot of wobble when pedalling in the open mode. Especially interesting as the original RS Deluxe remained absolute calm when pedalling. Also with the inital setup the Triair did blow through the travel easily, even on flat parts of trail.

    With the spacers added there still is suspension movement when pedalling in the open mode but not as much that it would bother me. Didn't touch the 3 position dial on the last rides, but I'm not one to care much about uphill performance. When descending the rear end feels way more composed than with the deluxe, feels like an invitation to leave the brakes untouched when charging through rough stuff.

  146. #346
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    If anyone is seeking a pre-owned AL model with upgraded parts:

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2652673/

  147. #347
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    Anyone replace the press fit bb with a Wheel Manufacturing thread together unit? If so, would you mind sharing the model that is compatible with the 153 and dub crank?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  148. #348
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    Just removed volume spacers from the Super Deluxe shock on my mullet build (there were 2 tokens in there). Will try to give it a ride and see how the ride changes.

    After that, will probably try out a MegNeg after New Year's. Lots of good feedback over at vitalmtb on the Super Deluxe + MegNeg combo. Feedback is that it's currently the best possible one out there that's not a coil.

  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimbers View Post
    stock wheels on my 2018 were 2.4kg

    replacing them improved the feel & handling loads
    Quick question here.

    Which model did 153 do you have?

    I've got the base model 2018 Process 153 AL/29'er, with the WTB STP rims and the novatec hubs.

    I've been considering an upgraded wheelset, and I'm not quite sure how much the stock wheelset weighs. Also, I'm not quite how strong the rims are supposed to be (ie, if they're supposed to be rated for trail/endure/all mountain/DH, etc).

    The upside, is that even going with a heavy wheelset (Spank 350 Vibrocore, DT Swiss ex511, etc), it seems I'd lose over a half pound, if your 2.4Kg measurement is correct.

  150. #350
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    Has anyone ridden both the carbon and alu version?
    Is there any perceivable difference other than weight?

  151. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by barefootdan View Post
    I never felt that it didnt descent well. By far one of my most confident inspiring bikes on the trails. The stock Super Deluxe DID feel lacking compared to the fork though.This isnt to say it descended badly. Just that the rear wasnt up to par. I swapped in a DVO Topaz and boy was it NICE. Very supple and still pedaled up without the use of the climb switch. I am in AZ so we have chunky climbs and not very many service roads. I sold my Kona a couple months back only do to the weight (I had the base 153 AL build). If I ever see a carbon frame for sale, I plan to jump on it immediately!
    I miss my P153! Since selling it, I have owned and sold the Yeti SB4.5, Guerrilla Gravity The Smash, and an Intense ACV (up for sale currently). None of these bikes gave me the feeling of the P153. Kona really nailed this bike. I'm such a bike nerd and always looking to try new things...so the new Ripmo AF has my eye. Or should I stick to what I know works, good ol Kona.

    I'll definitely be looking into the carbon model this time around for some weight savings. The P134 full carbon looks nice too. Anyone ridden both?

  152. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by barefootdan View Post
    I miss my P153! Since selling it, I have owned and sold the Yeti SB4.5, Guerrilla Gravity The Smash, and an Intense ACV (up for sale currently). None of these bikes gave me the feeling of the P153. Kona really nailed this bike. I'm such a bike nerd and always looking to try new things...so the new Ripmo AF has my eye. Or should I stick to what I know works, good ol Kona.

    I'll definitely be looking into the carbon model this time around for some weight savings. The P134 full carbon looks nice too. Anyone ridden both?
    Check the ripmo af thread, a guy was set on the AF but after testing the 153 he went for the Process.
    Iím still debating between both..

  153. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaniardclimber View Post
    Check the ripmo af thread, a guy was set on the AF but after testing the 153 he went for the Process.
    Iím still debating between both..
    I'll check that out, thanks. I know I'll run the Topaz and diamond on my process so that's the main selling point of the Ripmo so far.

  154. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by barefootdan View Post
    I'll check that out, thanks. I know I'll run the Topaz and diamond on my process so that's the main selling point of the Ripmo so far.
    Sorry, my bad, the thread was in pinkbike, not here..
    https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listc...hreadid=217362

  155. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaniardclimber View Post
    Sorry, my bad, the thread was in pinkbike, not here..
    https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listc...hreadid=217362
    Thanks! I should stick with what I know works for me. A process 153!

  156. #356
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    Has anyone done pivot maintenance on one of these yet?

    Last night I noticed a bit of grittiness on my headset. So I pulled it apart, and found that there was essentially no grease on the headset. Luckily the races still seemed pretty good, so I just greased it up and reassembled.

    Its got me worried about the pivots though, so I wanted to tackle that in the offseason.

    The problem is I can't find any torque specs, nor any documentation/videos detailing the process.

    So has anyone done any maintenance on these? And if so, what documentation/process/torque specs did you use?

  157. #357
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    I emailed Kona about this several months ago and I got these as a response.
    They also said that because of the locking pins no extra threadlock is needed.




    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-exploded-view.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  158. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by sladesy View Post
    I emailed Kona about this several months ago and I got these as a response.
    They also said that because of the locking pins no extra threadlock is needed.






    SWEET.

    Thats exactly what I was looking for. My plan was to email them if no one here had any info. So thanks for this.

    Did you actually service the pivots? If so, any insight/feedback/tips for me?

    I've never done a pivot service on a bike before, but I'm hoping its pretty straightforward, and somewhat similar to doing headsets, or things like automotive wheel bearings, just on a smaller scale.

  159. #359
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    No, I haven't serviced them yet. I just wanted to have the specs available for when I do need to service them. Since the trails are covered in snow it might be a good time to actually do it now myself.

  160. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by sladesy View Post
    No, I haven't serviced them yet. I just wanted to have the specs available for when I do need to service them. Since the trails are covered in snow it might be a good time to actually do it now myself.
    Basically my situation as well.

    I also got some tendentious/runners knee (started back up leg day workouts a bit too aggressively... after along absence) that means I should stay off of it for a while. I figure if the bike is in the stand taken apart... its easier to fight the urge to ride/aggravate it .

    Going to attempt the pivot bearings here in the coming weeks, as well as my first attempts at fork/shock service.

    Also considering overforking the bike when I do the fork service. Maybe just 10mm more. Not sure on that one yet.

    The most recent change I made to the bike was adding a longer stem. I swapped the 35mm stem for a 50mm stem.

    I'm between the L and XL in sizing (6'1"), and went with the large. I was feeling ever so slightly cramped in the cockpit, and I was also having trouble weighting the front end enough. I only have one ride on the new stem, but so far I think its an improvement in every way so far.

    I'd love to try the bike with a reduced offset fork as well, but thats not really financially feasible at the moment...

  161. #361
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    Started trying to service things today.

    Actually went very poorly.

    There is so much threadlock on the inside pivot bolts that even with the correct Allen keys, the bolt heads strip. Now Iím struggling to get them out, as theyíre totally stripped. A buddy has an easy out set, which Iím borrowing tonight. If that doesnít work, not quite sure what to try.

    The main pivot was easy to loosen, as it uses a different style of bolt.

    But the chain stay pivots, and rear linkage pivots all seem to have this problem.

    Has anyone loosened these successfully? Does anyone know where to get replacement bolts (the ones on the inside, not the ones on the outside)? Is it a normal bolt, or do I have to get a speciality one from Kona?

  162. #362
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    Kona has a bolt kit
    Bolt Kit: BK16 | KONA PARTS

    And a complete kit with bearings

    Bushing & Bolt Kit: Bushing and Bolt Kit #13 | KONA PARTS

  163. #363
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    Good to know what my worst case scenario is. For some reason I wasnít able to find that specific kit previously.

    I reached out to kona letting them know about the situation, and asking if I can buy that single bolt. Guess we will see what happens.

    EDIT:

    Spent some time on it tonight. Tried a bunch of tricks, but eventually the I had to drill out the stripped screw. And luckily, that worked better than expected. I may be able to get away with only replacing two screws (upper seatstay/rocker pivots, inside smaller bolts/screws).

    Also, discovered something interesting. You may not have a debonair air spring, even if your serial number says you do.

    I have a 2018 Process 153 AL 29'er. It is listed in the Kona website as having a soloair air spring, but also has the normal disclaimer that says that "specs can change without warning/notice"". So when I checked the forks serial information into the rockshox trailhead thing and it said that I have a debonair fork, I figured it was a late cycle upgrade

    When took the fork apart today to service it, I found that I most definitely don't have a debonair air spring. The bottom of the air spring assembly is black (debonair is red usually afaik), and sealhead had two washers on it, one of which was not a typical flat washer.

    This sealhead assembly exactly matches what I pulled out of/serviced in my fork tonight, if anyone is interested.

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...399b50b66dbd24
    Last edited by ocnLogan; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:16 AM.

  164. #364
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    Update here for everyone.

    Reached out to Kona tech support to ask about the bolts over the weekend, and after a bit of clarifying which bolts I was talking about (photos/exploded diagram), they told me today that they'll be sending me a few more bolts to replace the ones that got stripped.

    That means I should be able to be back up and running in a few days.

    For anyone else that has this issue, and for some reason can't get replacement parts from Kona, here is what I found out about this.

    The bolts are flat head cap screws. And the thread/pitch of the bolts are either a Metric M5 0.8, or a SAE 10-32 x 3/4". Both threaded in pretty well, and its a bit hard to tell exactly which one it is on the little test things at lowes.

    I also checked one of the other pieces of pivot bolt hardware in the set (there are three bolts per pivot), and it was an M10. So if that one is metric, I'd assume the other one is metric is well. So if I had to guess, I'm assuming it is an M5 0.8.

    The problem is that all bolts of that type I can find are stainless steel/steel. The pivot hardware is clearly aluminum, so a steel bolt would corrode into place if left alone long enough. Stainless steel would be even worse for corrosion. But if you could find an aluminum bolt, it seems easy enough to replace.

  165. #365
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    Great news that they are sending you some new bolts! Those small set screws can round out pretty easily. The the stock ones I have look to be a soft black oxide coated steel.

    I've got one in the main pivot that's starting to round out but it hooks up well on a fresh allen key & it's well greased.
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  166. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    Basically my situation as well.

    I'd love to try the bike with a reduced offset fork as well, but thats not really financially feasible at the moment...
    Hey guys thought I'd chime in here. I've got a '19 Process 153 29 I've been ripping around with a Bomber coil rear shock. The bike is amazing, but leans a little too trail for me, cause I've got a Following mb at home for those duties. I'm the tinkering type and never totally satisfied, so I just ordered a works -1.5 angleset and going to pair that with a used Fox 36 Grip2 reduced offset fork I scored a good deal on. Any one else going this route? Slackening w/ reduced offset?

  167. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gigi View Post
    Hey guys thought I'd chime in here. I've got a '19 Process 153 29 I've been ripping around with a Bomber coil rear shock. The bike is amazing, but leans a little too trail for me, cause I've got a Following mb at home for those duties. I'm the tinkering type and never totally satisfied, so I just ordered a works -1.5 angleset and going to pair that with a used Fox 36 Grip2 reduced offset fork I scored a good deal on. Any one else going this route? Slackening w/ reduced offset?
    I've been thinking the same thing, trying to think of ways I can stave off the desire for a new bike.

    The angleset is pretty cheap all things considered, and the -1.5 degree one was what I would be considering as well. And then increasing the travel of the fork by 10mm to keep the BB height close to stock.

    I've also thought about trying some offset bushings for the shock, as they're pretty cheap as well.

    Let me know how you like the changes. I'm really curious.

    The hard part is the reduced offset fork, as thats a bigger investment in money than the others. But I was thinking that would help bring the front wheel back under the bike a bit, something I struggle to do as well as I'd like (weighting the front tire on my size L, with its short chainstays).

    EDIT:

    Also, I got the replacement pivots from Kona. I'll post up some photos later, but the interesting thing, is that the replacement screws are steel (marked A2 tool steel). I'm pretty sure the ones I had before were aluminum (super soft, not magnetic, and weighed less than half the steel replacements on my kitchen scale), so I'm wondering if its a running change they made.

    Got it all assembled again last night, and am itching for my next ride .

  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    I've been thinking the same thing, trying to think of ways I can stave off the desire for a new bike.

    The angleset is pretty cheap all things considered, and the -1.5 degree one was what I would be considering as well. And then increasing the travel of the fork by 10mm to keep the BB height close to stock.

    I've also thought about trying some offset bushings for the shock, as they're pretty cheap as well.

    Let me know how you like the changes. I'm really curious.

    The hard part is the reduced offset fork, as thats a bigger investment in money than the others. But I was thinking that would help bring the front wheel back under the bike a bit, something I struggle to do as well as I'd like (weighting the front tire on my size L, with its short chainstays).

    EDIT:

    Also, I got the replacement pivots from Kona. I'll post up some photos later, but the interesting thing, is that the replacement screws are steel (marked A2 tool steel). I'm pretty sure the ones I had before were aluminum (super soft, not magnetic, and weighed less than half the steel replacements on my kitchen scale), so I'm wondering if its a running change they made.

    Got it all assembled again last night, and am itching for my next ride .
    Reducing fork offset can be done fairly cheaply. I have experience with running -2* headsets and reduced fork on konas if you need advice sometime.
    greener pastures

  169. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATXZJ View Post
    Reducing fork offset can be done fairly cheaply. I have experience with running -2* headsets and reduced fork on konas if you need advice sometime.
    How do you like the Process with the -2 angleset, and reduced offset fork?

    It seems like the additional slackness would lengthen the wheelbase, and make it more stable + the additional stability of the slacker HTA. But that it would put the front wheel even farther in front, making it hard to weight. The Reduced offset fork should help reign that in some, and make it a bit more stable as well (increased trail).

    Is that what happened? And would you recommend the mods?

    Also, how cheap is "fairly" cheap?

    The only way I know how to do it "cheaply", is to find a 27.5 yari, buy it whole, take the CSU, and then pair it with my current lowers.

    But then I'm left with a 51mm 29'er CSU and 27.5 lowers, which makes no sense as a complete unit to sell, so then you're reduced to selling them both separately? Guess I'm not sure how much they would go for, or how much demand there are for those parts. But on the surface, as a complete, it seems like it wouldn't sell at all.

    Pivot update/information as promised:

    For those that don't know, the pivots on the back of the bike are a 3 bolt configuration. You have two inner bolts, and one outer bolt.

    The largest inside bolt (8mm allen/hex interface) is held in by the outside bolt (6mm allen interface). The outside bolt is held in by the smallest inside bolt, which threads through the 8mm opening of the first bolt, and has a 3mm allen head.

    Its the 3mm allen bolt that stripped completely. I was only able to remove it by drilling it through from the outside with a smallish diameter bit (~1/8" or 9/64" iirc). It removed 2-3mm of material, then bit, and completely unscrewed the bolt. This "technique" worked perfectly on both sides, and did not damage the threads of the bolt it was screwed into.

    Here is the hasty photo/drawing that I made to send to my buddies the night it stripped and I got it apart.

    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-20200126_073220684_ios.jpg

    The replacement pivots smallest bolts are clearly different than what I have from the factory. You can clearly see the original pivot on the left, and the two new ones on the right.

    The ones on kona shipped me have a steel bolt (marked A2 steel, are magnetic, and weighed ~2g each), while I am pretty certain that I had aluminum bolt from the factory (black anodized, weighed under my scales 1g sensitivity limit, non magnetic, super crazy soft).

    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-20200131_232121225_ios.jpg

    Perhaps this was a running change in production (aluminum bolts to steel), or perhaps only the warranty parts are steel. Not sure.

    It just means that if you have the same issues that I had, you can drill them out, and go buy a steel M5 0.8 bolt from your local hardware store for under a dollar, and reassemble.

    Just thought I'd put this out there in case anyone else has this problem in the future .

  170. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mogollon View Post
    Just swapped the RS Deluxe out for the new Marzocchi Bomber CR with a Fox SLS coil. Actually feels really good thus far. Will spend a few days dialing things in, but it seems to be a good option for a coil on a budget.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's a lot of shock body thread showing,,, the spring seems short for that shock.

  171. #371
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    Are the frames the same between 27.5 and 29? I want to run 29 but found a good deal on a 27.5 frameset.

  172. #372
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    They are different.
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  173. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by eshew View Post
    They are different.
    The new frames are the same. We just got one for warranty from a HeiHei to a Proces 134, its a 27.5 frame, chain stays are same length as my managers carbon 153. We took his rear wheel off and has a maxxis 2.6 and fit the 27.5 frame no problem with a lot of clearance

  174. #374
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    The chain stays may be the same, possibly seat stays as well but I can't believe that the BB drop would be the same between 27.5 & 29. I'm sure there are differences between the frames with different wheel sizes. I'm guessing the front triangles have to be vastly different in order to keep the stack height the same between 27.5 & 29 which is something Kona designed for.
    83 Ritchey Everest
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  175. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by eshew View Post
    The chain stays may be the same, possibly seat stays as well but I can't believe that the BB drop would be the same between 27.5 & 29. I'm sure there are differences between the frames with different wheel sizes. I'm guessing the front triangles have to be vastly different in order to keep the stack height the same between 27.5 & 29 which is something Kona designed for.
    Geo charts are of course very similar. It does look like the 27.5 version has 19mm less BB drop (-10 vs -29mm).

    https://www.konaworld.com/process_153_275.cfm

    https://www.konaworld.com/process_153_29.cfm

    I'd wager that the chainstays/seatstays are the same, and are swapable between models (saves money on the manufacturing side). But the front triangle/rocker assembly will determine where they are mounted, and how much BB drop they have.

  176. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    I've been thinking the same thing, trying to think of ways I can stave off the desire for a new bike.

    The angleset is pretty cheap all things considered, and the -1.5 degree one was what I would be considering as well. And then increasing the travel of the fork by 10mm to keep the BB height close to stock.

    I've also thought about trying some offset bushings for the shock, as they're pretty cheap as well.

    Let me know how you like the changes. I'm really curious.

    The hard part is the reduced offset fork, as thats a bigger investment in money than the others. But I was thinking that would help bring the front wheel back under the bike a bit, something I struggle to do as well as I'd like (weighting the front tire on my size L, with its short chainstays).

    EDIT:

    Also, I got the replacement pivots from Kona. I'll post up some photos later, but the interesting thing, is that the replacement screws are steel (marked A2 tool steel). I'm pretty sure the ones I had before were aluminum (super soft, not magnetic, and weighed less than half the steel replacements on my kitchen scale), so I'm wondering if its a running change they made.

    Got it all assembled again last night, and am itching for my next ride .
    Will def let you all know how it plays out, just waiting on the 1.5 angleset from Works.

  177. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickerman1 View Post
    That's a lot of shock body thread showing,,, the spring seems short for that shock.
    I've got a Bomber on my 153, and the 350lb fox spring I got was also too short for the shock. I ended up getting/modifying a spacer so I could properly preload.

  178. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    Geo charts are of course very similar. It does look like the 27.5 version has 19mm less BB drop (-10 vs -29mm).

    https://www.konaworld.com/process_153_275.cfm

    https://www.konaworld.com/process_153_29.cfm

    I'd wager that the chainstays/seatstays are the same, and are swapable between models (saves money on the manufacturing side). But the front triangle/rocker assembly will determine where they are mounted, and how much BB drop they have.
    Interesting. So swapping wheels is no problem between the two. The geo will be slightly different. There is also the change in headtube length I noticed to account for stack. I wonder if it's too funky to run 29 on the 27.5 frame

  179. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by barefootdan View Post
    Interesting. So swapping wheels is no problem between the two. The geo will be slightly different. There is also the change in headtube length I noticed to account for stack. I wonder if it's too funky to run 29 on the 27.5 frame
    You could probably grab some offset bushings to lower the BB some. I don't think you'll ever get the 19mm back though.

    But yes, I think you could easily run 29in wheels in a 27.5 frame (assuming they're narrow enough like the normal 29'er version calls for), or vice versa.

  180. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    How do you like the Process with the -2 angleset, and reduced offset fork?

    It seems like the additional slackness would lengthen the wheelbase, and make it more stable + the additional stability of the slacker HTA. But that it would put the front wheel even farther in front, making it hard to weight. The Reduced offset fork should help reign that in some, and make it a bit more stable as well (increased trail).

    Is that what happened? And would you recommend the mods?

    Also, how cheap is "fairly" cheap?

    The only way I know how to do it "cheaply", is to find a 27.5 yari, buy it whole, take the CSU, and then pair it with my current lowers.

    But then I'm left with a 51mm 29'er CSU and 27.5 lowers, which makes no sense as a complete unit to sell, so then you're reduced to selling them both separately? Guess I'm not sure how much they would go for, or how much demand there are for those parts. But on the surface, as a complete, it seems like it wouldn't sell at all.

    .
    Just buy a 42mm offset upper csu as they can be had for way under $300. This is what ive done on my pike and lyrik builds. I purchased the lowers, upper, air shaft, and damper all separately and built exactly what i wanted.

    This *experiment* all started when I built a sentinel for a buddy of mine with the short offset.

    I ran my 29er pike on a process 111 and my current kona hei hei both with a 40mm offset CSU and 2* works angleset. The 111 was 130mm with a 65.5 HTA and Hei Hei is 120mm with 66 HTA. The fork really smoothed out the steering at slow speed corners and felt like it didn't need as many micro corrections. Hard to describe but it just flows better.

    My other bike, a commencal supreme SX has a 180mm lyrik with 37mm offset and a 62.8 HTA.

    Quote Originally Posted by wickerman1 View Post
    The new frames are the same. We just got one for warranty from a HeiHei to a Proces 134, its a 27.5 frame, chain stays are same length as my managers carbon 153. We took his rear wheel off and has a maxxis 2.6 and fit the 27.5 frame no problem with a lot of clearance
    Quote Originally Posted by ocnLogan View Post
    Geo charts are of course very similar. It does look like the 27.5 version has 19mm less BB drop (-10 vs -29mm).

    https://www.konaworld.com/process_153_275.cfm

    https://www.konaworld.com/process_153_29.cfm

    I'd wager that the chainstays/seatstays are the same, and are swapable between models (saves money on the manufacturing side). But the front triangle/rocker assembly will determine where they are mounted, and how much BB drop they have.
    Can attest to the last generation process having the EXACT same rear links on the 111,134 and 153 as I owned all of them at the same time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gigi View Post
    Will def let you all know how it plays out, just waiting on the 1.5 angleset from Works.
    Cant go wrong with works.
    Last edited by ATXZJ; 1 Week Ago at 08:33 AM.
    greener pastures

  181. #381
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    I took the wheel off my 29er and put in on the process 134 frame, which is labelled 27.5. My wheel has a 2.6 on it.
    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-img_20200214_152853.jpg
    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-img_20200214_152628.jpg
    Dedicated Kona 153 29er forum-img_20200214_152922.jpg

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