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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006

    coilair shock settings

    Hey guys, I'm having a little trouble getting the DHX Air 5.0 settings right on my '06 Coilair... I'm wondering what other people are running. So if you would please list:

    -Model year (the '07s use a different stroke shock...)
    -Rider weight (Specify with or with out gear, water etc...)
    -air pressure main chamber
    -air pressure in the boost chamber
    -rebound setting
    -bottom out damping setting
    -Which shock mount hole you use/prefer
    -And anything else....Go ahead and list info on the Fox 36 fork if you want...
    For what it's worth I weigh 155lbs with out gear...
    Thanks a bunch!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    So am I to understand no one on this forum rides a coilair?...? But seriously, any advice would be apreciated. Thanks

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dowst's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    I have been riding/tuning a Coilair w/ DHX 5 for the past year. If anyone has that frame/shock setup dialed, it's me. Luckily for you, I also weigh 155lbs without gear.

    I'll start by saying the DHX Air is a great shock. Really, it is. You hear a lot of bad reviews about them, but the majority of those reviews are written by people who have little experiance riding the shock, or haven't taken the time to tune it properly for them. And that being said, you really need to tune it for it to perform like you want it to.

    I'm going to take a blind guess here. The problem your having with setting up your shock is inadequate midstroke support, which causes frequent bottoming out. Am I right? Maybe not. Hey, it was a guess.

    If you're haveing that problem, which I'm guessing you are, then it can be remedied in one of 3 ways. First, there's the easy way. Order the $40 lower volume RP23 air sleeve from Fox. This will allow you to run a lower air pressure and achieve the same sag percentage, all the while making the suspension curve very progressive. The other two techniques do essentially the same thing as this, except are more or less free of charge. You can either shim the outer air sleeve (take the DHX air apart and you'll notice that there are in fact two air sleeves, an inner large volume sleeve, and an outer low volume sleeve) with 1mm thick flexible polycarbonate sheeting, or increase the oil level inside the shock.

    The air sleeve shim is a fairly straightforward mod that more or less eliminates the space in the outer air sleeve, effectively reducing the air volume of the shock itself, causing a more progressive suspension curve.

    The next option, which does the same as the previous two, but requires a fair bit less work, is to add about 10ml (or more, depending on how much bottom-out resistance you want) of high grade suspension oil to the inside of the air sleeve. Fox already has a couple of ml in there for lubrication, so you're basically just adding more to take up space inside the sleeve to reduce the volume.

    Try any of these, they'll all help increase the progressiveness of the suspension cirve and help prevent bottomout.

    Moving on, if you're experiencing a lack of mid stroke support, this is not to be blamed on any adjustment or knob that some people will blame it on. Just like with a coil shock, if you are experiencing a lack of mid-stoke support, you need to up your spring rate. A combination of an increase about 10-15psi of air in the main air sleeve plus a tad higher Boost Valve pressure w/increased oil level in the shock will give you a nice and well supported mid-stoke and progressive end stroke if you are having mid stoke/bottomout problems with 30% sag. I've found that with the DHX air, you don't need to follow the 30% sag rule to the first degree. Just mess with the oil level and air pressure until you have a nice and plush, yet well supported mid-stoke with a fairly good bottomout resistance. Keep in mind that you want to be using all of your travel on the bigger hits, so don't set your shock up to never bottom out.

    Here's the gold:

    Main Chamber- ~200psi w/ approx 7ml oil in sleeve and shimmed outer air sleeve.

    Boost Valve- 145-170psi, depending on day. Higher for the days when I know I'll be hucking, lower for the DH at the resort.

    Bottom Out Resistance- Usually cranked all the way in.

    Rebound- Again, depends on day. Slower for the big hits, faster for DH. A good test is to ride off a curb seated, and set the rebound damping so that the suspension only bounces once after riding off the curb at a medium speed. Set it like that and then fine tune on the mountain. You want it to be as fast as possible without ever getting bucked.

    I've used both mounting holes extensively. I've found that I prefer the front hole, which gives a more Linear suspension curve ( I know, call me counter productive to tune the shock progressive, and then use a more linear mount, but I've found that it feels more balanced and plush). You can try both. The rear hole is supposed to give a more progressive rate suspension, but I never liked the feel.

    Let me know how it works for you.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Thanks a ton! Thats exactly what I was looking for... And your asumptions were pretty spot on.
    So far I've settled on 210-220 in the main, 190-200 in the boost, bottom out cranked and the pro-pedal stays withen 5 clicks of full damping. This does not leave me with much sag, but feels the best so far. And this is without the chamber volume modifications you describe.
    I am gonna hold out on those for now. I'm headed to Moab tomorrow (porcupine should be a good test I think...) and can't break into a project like that. I'll try to do upon my return and will keep you updated. Thanks again!

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    I am also on an '06 Coilair and have played around a bunch with this shock. I ride the largest frame and weigh in at about 200 lbs. loaded out to ride.

    I changed out the air sleeve for the RP23 sleeve and I mount it in the rear hole, set up is:

    Main Chamber - 220 psi

    Boost Valve - 180 psi,

    Bottom Out Resistance - Just backed off from max.

    Rebound - Usually around 7 back from full fast

    Pro-pedal - adjust as needed.

    On a side note, I sent my OE '06 36 Talas in for some work and long story short they gave me a crash replacement price on an '08 36 Float. The difference is noticable and positive. I really like the way it rides. After the first month I left the Talas set 150 mm anyway.

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