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  1. #1
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    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?

    What do you guys think of the new Unit? Any thoughts on the switch to 27.5+ tires?

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    i have zero interest in B+ anything, so the complete bike is a no-go for me. frame only option? maybe.

    I'd be a lot more interested if they made it 29+ capable instead, or just left it alone.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    i have zero interest in B+ anything, so the complete bike is a no-go for me. frame only option? maybe.

    I'd be a lot more interested if they made it 29+ capable instead, or just left it alone.
    Fair enough. Thanks. Im not so thrilled with the idea of endless wheel/tire sizes either but two things...

    First, last time I was in Utah, a shop owner/free guide was riding a B+ Rocky. Not saying it had anything to do with wheel size (although he claimed it did), but his skill was undeniable, especially in the steeeeeeep gnar and trials-like terrain. That dude could tackle pretty much anything on that bike. And like I said - he attributed it, at least partially, to wheel size.

    Second, I thought a B+ SS may make for a decent winter commuter.

    Maybe I will just try to squeeze another winter out of my sick, limping, highly corroded 2008 Kona Fire Mountain...

  4. #4
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    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?

    Have they essentially turned it into a Karate Monkey? Not saying that's good or bad since I've never ridden one. I'm not in love with the OD green but I'm going to see if my LBS can get one in so I can give it a rip. I don't see the downside to having more flexibility on wheels.

    ps. You might get more action on this topic in the SS forum
    Last edited by Xarvet; 08-24-2016 at 04:10 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xarvet View Post
    Have they essentially turned it into a Karate Monkey?
    not sure what this means? they've both always been similar bikes.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    not sure what this means? they've both always been similar bikes.
    Well, it's a question. But seems they're more alike now than ever - more trail oriented geo, fitting b+, more mounting points for bags and bottles, etc

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    they've both traditionally been XC oriented rigid bikes. similar concept, similar execution, similar tubing, similar geo, similar price/value etc. really the biggest difference was the method they use for tensioning the chain.

    it looks like this years model continues to get a slightly slacker HTA for both, and they are following the trendy thing right now, B+ compatibility.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    i have zero interest in B+ anything, so the complete bike is a no-go for me. frame only option? maybe.

    I'd be a lot more interested if they made it 29+ capable instead, or just left it alone.
    It is 29+ capable as per my shop owner who was at Kona camp. We are getting at least one in this week so I could always test fit to make sure...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by giantone View Post
    It is 29+ capable as per my shop owner who was at Kona camp. We are getting at least one in this week so I could always test fit to make sure...
    interesting. if that were the case i wonder why they wouldn't put it on the website?

    also 2.8's on 30mm rims aren't an option. if i can't run at least a Dirt Wizard on a 50mm rim, i wouldn't call it 29+ capable.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    interesting. if that were the case i wonder why they wouldn't put it on the website?

    also 2.8's on 30mm rims aren't an option. if i can't run at least a Dirt Wizard on a 50mm rim, i wouldn't call it 29+ capable.
    My guess is that the geo won't be stellar with 29+ is one good reason for not advertising compatibility. Same thing with how there hasn't been much detailed information with respect to the narrow Q-factor on the Wozo...

    I'm going to take the wheels off my Krampus to test fit 29x3 Chronicle on Duallys. The shipment got delayed so it'll have to be sometime next week at the earliest.

  11. #11
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    ^ cool, interested to hear the results.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    ^ cool, interested to hear the results.
    +2! I'm also interested in hearing if the 2017 Unit will fit 29+.

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    anyone receive a 2017 bike yet??

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    seriously! I am saving up for mine and can't wait to hear ride impressions

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    Giantone- did you ever get one in and test your Krampus wheels?
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    Giantone- did you ever get one in and test your Krampus wheels?
    The bike came in and sold before I got the chance.

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    Any word on the new Unit?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Raumfahrer Rolf View Post
    +2! I'm also interested in hearing if the 2017 Unit will fit 29+.

    Also interested, looking at the pics on the Kona website, they should fit if the dropouts are shoved all the way back, AFAIC.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    What do you guys think of the new Unit? Any thoughts on the switch to 27.5+ tires?
    Just got one last month still testing and making adjustments. The 2017 handles quicker and rides much smoother than my 2011. 275+offers a better ride, better cornering and better braking but 29 seems to climb faster. Added 780 niner carbon rdo bars,specialized chisel fork,specialized 3.0 purgatory front tire, slx brakes, esi grips, 21 niner rear cog, spd pedals, x fusion dropper post and setup tubeless. after all that the bike weighs 26.4 pounds. It is truly Fun to ride but this bike will remain strava free.

  20. #20
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    Pic please!

    Quote Originally Posted by saki View Post
    Added 780 niner carbon rdo bars,specialized chisel fork,specialized 3.0 purgatory front tire, slx brakes, esi grips, 21 niner rear cog, spd pedals, x fusion dropper post and setup tubeless.
    Sounds nice! What does it look like?

    I like the 2017 paint - looks like a Jabberwocky, or '07 Monocog Flight.
    2017 Diamondback Haanjo
    2016 Pivot 429T
    2011 Kona Unit

  21. #21
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    Damn where did you buy it I don't think we are going to see 2017 **** in NZ for a while.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryder1 View Post
    Sounds nice! What does it look like?

    I like the 2017 paint - looks like a Jabberwocky, or '07 Monocog Flight.
    Heres a iphone pic on todays ride.https://attachment.outlook.office.ne...live.com&isc=1

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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post
    Damn where did you buy it I don't think we are going to see 2017 **** in NZ for a while.
    I bought it at my LBS. The Path in Tustin California. If you can't get one locally give them a call at 1-714-669-0784 ask for Brian he can hook you up. Good luck

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by saki View Post
    ^ bad link. try just posting the photo, i'm interested too.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

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    Sorry hope this works

    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?-img_1895.jpg

  26. #26
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    What size is that?

    Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

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    It's a size small with 780 wide handlebars and a 50mm stem

  28. #28
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    I can't wait to ride one, I am pretty much sold, just want to spend more time on a demo 27.5+ before I buy. I can demo a trek Stache but I know I will want to buy that things probably over the Unit but $$$$$ falling short. I love my 2015 Trek Superfly but looking to get back into steel. How are there not more reviews or info. Maybe singlespeed forum?

  29. #29
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    Ordered the unit, supposedly one in stock, can't wait!

  30. #30
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    Got my 2017 Kona Unit a few weeks ago and love it. I'm a big guy 6'5" 300lb so wanted to get back to a nice solid steel rigid bike that could take my beating. Now understand I got the bike with the intention of lots of changes, upgrades and gears. I'm just a bit picky and know what works for me vs smaller lighter guys. Also I liked the versatility that Kona built into this frame.
    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?-20161029_113944.jpg
    Base:
    2017 XL Kona Unit

    Upgrades:
    hand built (by me) wheels Bitex 6 pawl hubs (108 points of engagement) laced with Sapim laser butted spokes to WTB Scraper I45 rims.
    Origin 8 space bar (AKA marry bar clone)
    X7 rear derailer and shifter
    11x36 cassette
    WTB 3.0 Bridger front tire
    XT trail pedals
    Orange seal tubeless
    Halo hex bolt skewers

    Present weight: 28lb

    Possible future plans:
    XT 11 speed 11x46. Soon as money allows
    Wolf tooth oval chain ring? kinda want to try it.
    WTB Ranger tires? unless something better is out when what I got wears down.
    Rear through axle? seams solid as it is not sure its needed.
    Carbon fork? Would like the weight savings but not sure I want the failure.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMasonJones View Post
    Wolf tooth oval chain ring? kinda want to try it.
    Very nice build. Love the burly looks of it.
    And I can whole heartedly recommend oval rings. I was sceptical first, but I'm running 34T oval one up on my Honzo (with 11-42 out back), and it is amazing how much traction you get, and how much longer your legs can deliver.

    i can also recommend to extend the 11-36 cassette with a 42T cog, assuming you'd like to test this as well.
    hope this helps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rynee View Post
    Very nice build. Love the burly looks of it.
    And I can whole heartedly recommend oval rings. I was sceptical first, but I'm running 34T oval one up on my Honzo (with 11-42 out back), and it is amazing how much traction you get, and how much longer your legs can deliver.

    i can also recommend to extend the 11-36 cassette with a 42T cog, assuming you'd like to test this as well.
    hope this helps.
    Thanks Loving the bike and pimping it out a bit more than I would normally. I'm digging the matte green and black base colors with a little blue bling to match the Kona decals just enough to make it pop.

    My next upgrade will be taking it from a well worn 10 group to 11 with 11-46. Would like to add the Oval as well but not sure its available for the FSA comet cranks. haven't done a lot of looking yet though.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

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    Should have just gotten a frame only option with ditching so many own parts. Put any miles of the factory wheels, how's feel vs scraper i45?

  34. #34
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    Got a real good deal on the full bike as I'm the trail steward for the shop managers favorite trail. The only additional Money out of my pocket on the bike was the wheels all other parts were in the bin and the 3.0 Bridger was a straight trade to a friend that had just gotten a Heller and wanted to get some better rolling on the rear.

    I am hell on wheels so the original wheels were slated as a back up set from the beginning. This way I have an extra set sitting in the car just in case on bike trips ect. I have a backup set of wheels for every bike I own.

    The Alex rims are OK at 40mm inner width but the hubs are silly low engagement for a bike sold as single speed. with the new wheel set I took almost 2lbs of the bike.

    As for the scrapper rims I like them. They have a good weight to stiffness and if you match them with a WTB tire they will hold without sealant just fine. Hell I set them up with a floor pump.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  35. #35
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    2lbs! Guess upgrade is in my future.....

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driverfound337 View Post
    2lbs! Guess upgrade is in my future.....
    I went to the limit of how light I thought I could go. I have built wheels for years and am very, very, very picky about them and the proper build tension ect. I also ruff check true/round after every ride. So you might not be able to shave off quite as much as I did but you could get close with a shop built set.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  37. #37
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    [QUOTE=TrailMasonJones;12898581]Got my 2017 Kona Unit a few weeks ago and love it./QUOTE]

    Could you snap a couple of pics of the cable housing? Do they still have housing stops for the rear mech and along the TT?

  38. #38
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    The rear derailer cable runs down the down tube and under the bottom bracket. It has some housing zip tie brazes to tie to until you get to the 3rd of the 5 water bottle mounts. you can simply use eyelet cable ties like I show here.
    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?-20161101_181132.jpg
    after the bottom bracket there are 3 mounts on the bottom of the chain stay however I prefer to go old school with a tube wrap chain stay protector. so the housing is sitting in the mounts but just warped in place.
    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?-20161101_181206.jpg
    I have the drop out sliders slammed full forward there are some alignment bolts that I did not install as they are not needed with this arrangement. the sliders make it very easy to go back to single speed as a trailside repair.
    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?-20161101_181225.jpg
    plenty of rear clearance with the 2.8 on the 45mm inner rim a friend of mine is running a large unit with 3.35s on 35mm rims and still has ok clearance.
    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?-20161101_181244.jpg
    and the fork has loads of room left with the 3.0s on I45 rims
    2017 Kona Unit - verdict?-20161101_181312.jpg
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  39. #39
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    Cool-blue Rhythm Steel, rigid, SS, 27.5+ and a great price

    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    What do you guys think of the new Unit? Any thoughts on the switch to 27.5+ tires?
    i haven't ridden a unit, or a 27.5+ but it sure looks like a fine combination. I just bumped my front tire up to a 2.35 from 2.15 and I can't believe the difference in handling on my trails.
    Not so much for the suspension crowd but for the SS rigid folk, hell yeah.
    I noticed it the other day on their website and can't stop thinking about the damn thing.

    Where am i gonna hide this so my wife doesn't see the new bike?

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crankyone View Post
    i haven't ridden a unit, or a 27.5+ but it sure looks like a fine combination. I just bumped my front tire up to a 2.35 from 2.15 and I can't believe the difference in handling on my trails.
    Not so much for the suspension crowd but for the SS rigid folk, hell yeah.
    I noticed it the other day on their website and can't stop thinking about the damn thing.

    Where am i gonna hide this so my wife doesn't see the new bike?
    I can blame the change for me on my fat bike. I was happy with my 29r then I started to play with the fatty and loved the traction and how I could just dive into corners without the fear of my front tire washing out. But I hated the overall weight and resistance if the big tires. With the 27.5+ setup your bridging that gap getting damn close to the rollover of 29r and close to the traction of a fatty.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  41. #41
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    Will 29x3" fit?

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMasonJones View Post
    plenty of rear clearance with the 2.8 on the 45mm inner rim a friend of mine is running a large unit with 3.35s on 35mm rims and still has ok
    Do you think a 29x3" (Maxxis Chronicle) on a 50 mm rim will fit? It would be ok if it'd just about fit.

    I'm contemplating an extended expedition in sandy tracks/washboard conditions.

    Usually one would take a fully featured fatbike, but for several reasons I think I could get away with a plus bike.

    I could go with 27,5x3", but like you, I'm building my wheels myself for years for several reasons (I'm a rather big guy too), so I wouldn't use the stock wheelset and instead build a dedictaded one.

    Reason for why I want to go 29 plus is, I have the stuff laying around.

    Else, I'd had to go for a Surly ECR or wait for the new Krampus. But Surly I find a tick to pricey, also what I like about the Unit is, that they didn't jump the Boost-train.

    Also, for the future I'd rather go down the 29/27,5 PLUS-road instead of the 29 PLUS-road that I had to with a surly 29 PLUS bike ...

  42. #42
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    There is a chance get me dimensions center to top of tread, center to widest point and widest measurement and I will see.

    The old school hub standard was a selling point for me.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMasonJones View Post
    There is a chance get me dimensions center to top of tread, center to widest point and widest measurement and I will see.
    OK, here they are, 29x3 MAXXIS Chronicle on 50 mm rims:

    Tire width: 78 mm (~ 3.07")
    Wheel, center to tire outer most: 395 mm (~ 15 1/2")

    As I expect rather dry and sandy conditions 5-6 mm clearance on each side should suffice.

    Oh, and how wide is the fork on the outside?

    Cheers, much appreciated!
    Last edited by macrusher; 11-05-2016 at 06:37 AM.

  44. #44
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    Using tape measure only I would call it a no go. In real life it might just squeeze in but no clearance for anything pulled up by the tire.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  45. #45
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Cheers, after all, I now know that I have to look further for a suitable ride...

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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMasonJones View Post
    Using tape measure only I would call it a no go. In real life it might just squeeze in but no clearance for anything pulled up by the tire.
    Another question: is this diameter or width or both? Do you think a 3" tire on a 50 mm rim will fit in?

  47. #47
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    OK I have got my unit 2017
    It replace my unit 2014
    After 2 days in very loose terrain trials and big stones I think the 27.5 more grippy then 29 and rolling like the 29.
    brakes are work very good.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by macrusher View Post
    OK, here they are, 29x3 MAXXIS Chronicle on 50 mm rims:

    Tire width: 78 mm (~ 3.07")
    Wheel, center to tire outer most: 395 mm (~ 15 1/2")

    As I expect rather dry and sandy conditions 5-6 mm clearance on each side should suffice.

    Oh, and how wide is the fork on the outside?

    Cheers, much appreciated!
    Sorry to leave you hanging but having way to much fun riding the unit. With the sliders full back you have just over 15.5" to the crown if the chain stay yoke at about 14" from wheel center you have just over 3.5" and it starts tapering down quick from there.

    Myself I would not run 29+ I understand you want to use wheels you got but seriously I have. Ridden a few 29+ stash and krampus and I'm happyer with the 27.5+
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  49. #49
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    Few things more
    The front wheel feel harder to lift up then unit 2014
    In very fast rolling the steering are fill strange a bit (heavy like)
    I open the wheels bearing to add grease. In every wheel one side was lake of grease.
    The rear wheel spokes are very very loose.
    I do not like the open bearings in both wheels
    I do not understand why Kona still use QR9/10 wheels shafts
    Other Bayer claim he need to add grease to the headset ( I did not open it yet)

  50. #50
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    Fresh shipment of units coming in this week, get ready for those who ordered can't wait to rip it next week!

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yuval11 View Post
    Few things more
    The front wheel feel harder to lift up then unit 2014
    In very fast rolling the steering are fill strange a bit (heavy like)
    I open the wheels bearing to add grease. In every wheel one side was lake of grease.
    The rear wheel spokes are very very loose.
    I do not like the open bearings in both wheels
    I do not understand why Kona still use QR9/10 wheels shafts
    Other Bayer claim he need to add grease to the headset ( I did not open it yet)
    Yuval11 I'm an old bike mechanic from a shop that thought they were the best around. I was thought that it didn't matter what brand that bike was if it was made in a factory the first thing you did was take every last component apart degrease it repack it with quality grease and build it correctly true and tension the wheels ect...ect... I have seen the same things you describe on Trek, Cannondale, Kline, Bontrager, Specialized, Caloi, Garry Fisher, and Scott all directly out of the box.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMasonJones View Post
    Yuval11 I'm an old bike mechanic from a shop that thought they were the best around. I was thought that it didn't matter what brand that bike was if it was made in a factory the first thing you did was take every last component apart degrease it repack it with quality grease and build it correctly true and tension the wheels ect...ect... I have seen the same things you describe on Trek, Cannondale, Kline, Bontrager, Specialized, Caloi, Garry Fisher, and Scott all directly out of the box.
    It a pity to read it because when you bay a new car you not going to disparate it.
    Price of bicycles are very high if you compare it to motorbike so why I can not get it with grease in 2 wheels and headset and BB (+/- 10 bearings ) and spokes tight as needed ?

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMasonJones View Post
    Got a real good deal on the full bike as I'm the trail steward for the shop managers favorite trail.
    Yea, you deserve it. Marco verified Kona had the XL frame and ordered it this morning. Hope it gets in soon. Christmas shopping is early this year.

    Already contemplating the best way to easily swap a geared rear wheel to a single speed. Never tried SS before, and it's easy to do with the Unit. Thinking full length housing and SRAM shifters that I can just disconnect from the mount. Velcro straps or cable ties to hold them down. 2 bolts, some velcro straps, and a wheel/change swap to go geared to single speed. Can't get much easier. Adjust dropouts and maybe the brake caliper alignment.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yuval11 View Post
    ... so why I can not get it with grease in 2 wheels and headset and BB (+/- 10 bearings ) and spokes tight as needed ?
    Time to find a better LBS. That stuff should be standard bike assembly for a good shop.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Yea, you deserve it. Marco verified Kona had the XL frame and ordered it this morning. Hope it gets in soon. Christmas shopping is early this year.

    Already contemplating the best way to easily swap a geared rear wheel to a single speed. Never tried SS before, and it's easy to do with the Unit. Thinking full length housing and SRAM shifters that I can just disconnect from the mount. Velcro straps or cable ties to hold them down. 2 bolts, some velcro straps, and a wheel/change swap to go geared to single speed. Can't get much easier. Adjust dropouts and maybe the brake caliper alignment.
    your on the right track also helps if you have a split clamp on the front shifter. on the bottom section of the down tube there is a longish section that dose not have any cable tie locations as they have the 3rd water bottle cage bosses there I presently have my housing in cable ties attached to the water bottle location but one of these days will look around for one of the housing clamps that are used on many bikes down tubes these days.

    see you on the trail soon
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  56. #56
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    My SRAM x7 shifter lets me remove the shifter without removing the clamp. I haven't tried to see what it takes to hold the clamp down securely without the shifter (assuming I just put the bolt back in), but I should be able to figure it out pretty easy. No FD for me, 1x10 with the 11-42 sunrace cassette. Has worked great on my alloy 29er so far.

    Question concerning rear brake. Will a 180mm rotor fit out back, or does it get close to the frame? I know the stock configuration is 160mm in back, and didn't know if the frame rotor notches were size for 160mm or 180mm.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    My SRAM x7 shifter lets me remove the shifter without removing the clamp. I haven't tried to see what it takes to hold the clamp down securely without the shifter (assuming I just put the bolt back in), but I should be able to figure it out pretty easy. No FD for me, 1x10 with the 11-42 sunrace cassette. Has worked great on my alloy 29er so far.

    Question concerning rear brake. Will a 180mm rotor fit out back, or does it get close to the frame? I know the stock configuration is 160mm in back, and didn't know if the frame rotor notches were size for 160mm or 180mm.
    Hi,
    I have the same shifter on my Honzo. If i remember correctly, you can either put the bolt back inside the clamp, or not, it does not make a difference.
    Regarding your earlier post: you dont need to realign the brake pads when you move the dropouts to tension the chain - the calipers are screwed to the dropouts and not the frame, i.e. they move together with the wheel. just make sure you allow some slack in the brake hose. regarding rotor size i cannot comment, but if you click on the second picture here and enlarge it, I think there's plenty of clearance: http://www.probikeshop.net/mtb-kona-...17/128320.html

    Stating the obvious here: you'll need to buy a new drive side dropout with a derailleur hanger, as the unit comes stock with a dedicated single speed dropout (i.e. no derailleur hanger).
    I have a 2011 Explosif where I've already switched several times between single speed and geared, whatever is more to my liking, and I really like the simplicity of the kona sliding dropouts for that purpose.

    hope this helps!

  58. #58
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    looking at the Bike I think 180mm will fit I have one at home and will take a better look to make sure.

    the sliding drop outs are very nice one of the selling points for me as geared was always my primary intention for my bike but having the SS backup for a bad day far from the trail head is super nice. the one down side to sliders is keeping it all straight and aligned as you side. That being said if you use the adjuster nut properly its pretty easy better than many systems out there.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  59. #59
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    I know they say wheelset is tubeless ready but sometimes it's time only. Are the stock wheel tubeless valves and taped for it ready to go? All I should need is Stans if they are

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    [QUOTE=
    Question concerning rear brake. Will a 180mm rotor fit out back, or does it get close to the frame? I know the stock configuration is 160mm in back, and didn't know if the frame rotor notches were size for 160mm or 180mm.[/QUOTE]

    Hi
    I have 180 mm rear disk on the unit 2017 with no problem and 203mm in the front and the originals Spyke caliper work fine for me (I am 70kg)

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    My SRAM x7 shifter lets me remove the shifter without removing the clamp. I haven't tried to see what it takes to hold the clamp down securely without the shifter (assuming I just put the bolt back in), but I should be able to figure it out pretty easy. No FD for me, 1x10 with the 11-42 sunrace cassette. Has worked great on my alloy 29er so far.

    Question concerning rear brake. Will a 180mm rotor fit out back, or does it get close to the frame? I know the stock configuration is 160mm in back, and didn't know if the frame rotor notches were size for 160mm or 180mm.
    Quote Originally Posted by Driverfound337 View Post
    I know they say wheelset is tubeless ready but sometimes it's time only. Are the stock wheel tubeless valves and taped for it ready to go? All I should need is Stans if they are
    Hi
    My LBS open the box and assembled my 2017 Unit. He had told me the valves for tubeless was inside the set. I have now tubeless and I can not say what type of valves there
    Hope it help

  62. #62
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    That's all I was wondering thanks! I love in the desert and need tubeless asap so I want to be ready to set it up myself, thank you!

  63. #63
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    Getting the frameset, so it comes with the geared 135mm dropouts with der. hanger. The brake alignment was in reference to pad alignment. Some hubs don't have the exact same hub spacing for their brake rotors, so a 1mm or 0.5mm washer will need to get added. or I'll have to simply give the bb7 knob a spin. Easy to do, just need to remember to do it.

    If you bought the frame, did it come with the headset and seatpost collar?
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  64. #64
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    Those of you with the new unit running it geared. What do the chainstays measure if you slam the dropouts forward? I know on Kona's site it lists them at 17.4" actual (center of bb to center of rear axle), but it doesn't say if that is centered or forward. I am hoping that they are at or close to 17" ...

    Cheers,
    -A
    Disclaimer: I'm a fan-boi for Jenson USA.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlyontwo View Post
    Those of you with the new unit running it geared. What do the chainstays measure if you slam the dropouts forward? I know on Kona's site it lists them at 17.4" actual (center of bb to center of rear axle), but it doesn't say if that is centered or forward. I am hoping that they are at or close to 17" ...

    Cheers,
    -A
    I want to say that they are about 435mm slammed full forward.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Getting the frameset, so it comes with the geared 135mm dropouts with der. hanger. The brake alignment was in reference to pad alignment. Some hubs don't have the exact same hub spacing for their brake rotors, so a 1mm or 0.5mm washer will need to get added. or I'll have to simply give the bb7 knob a spin. Easy to do, just need to remember to do it.

    If you bought the frame, did it come with the headset and seatpost collar?
    if you have the BB7s sitting around I understand but if your buying for this build do yourself a big favor and go with the TRP spikes instead lots more modulation and power and less continual maintenance. I will say that I have moved to XT hydros and am very happy.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  67. #67
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    already have the bb7. I'm basically moving the brakes, wheels, crankset, and cockpit off my 29er to the unit. Getting new GX clutch derailure and shifter. Everything else I need to re-build the 29er into a gravel grinder is stuff I've got spares of, which is kinda sad.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  68. #68
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    Anyone interested in my 2017, medium located in Phoenix ready to go. Hasn't been ridden, financial issue arose, still might hang onto it. 1000$ and it's yours

  69. #69
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    Nice vid!


  70. #70
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    Where does this blue unit come from, it looks brand new is it 2017? I love the green we have now and to be honest I have refused to buy a unit due to its coloring the last few years.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driverfound337 View Post
    Where does this blue unit come from, it looks brand new is it 2017? I love the green we have now and to be honest I have refused to buy a unit due to its coloring the last few years.
    The baby blue is the 2017 unit in Europe, the matt green is the 2017 unit in north amarica. I love the look of the matt Green I am vary glad it is the color that we have as i would have had a much harder time buying that blue thing.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  72. #72
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    I'd rather have that blue thing. Everybody is different though. Hopefully we can all agree, dirty brown is out.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  73. #73
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    I would prefer the matt green but had to settle for that baby blue.

    There's also different brakes between the two. Europe version has tektro's hydraulic and US TRP spyres.
    Last edited by jurso; 12-07-2016 at 01:15 PM.

  74. #74
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    Very interesting about colors and brakes, oh well, thank goodness that orange thing is done

  75. #75
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    I tried to see if I could use my floor pump to get my Unit's Trailblazers mounted tubeless. I did this without sealent because this was just a test to see if my pump was good enough. The tires popped on perfectly and i was able to pump them up, but the other rim is leaking air from the rim joint (not from the bead of the tire). The other rim is fine and holds pressure ok. I have the rim tape that came on the bike from factory. Sealant propably would seal the leak, but I started to wonder if the rim is something I shoud contact the shop I bought it from for a warranty replacement or not. Today is Sunday, so I can't call there today... Is it totally normal for tubeless ready rims to leak like that from the joint?

  76. #76
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    Not normal
    I replaced a WTB rim on my 2yr old Kona when it started leaking like that. It was my fault as I'd bent the edge in a few places (one right on that leaking crack) with some rock strikes. I learned never to run less than 25psi on the rear, the knobies (Ardent) hook-up so well at 20psi, but not enough protection for the rim.
    I bet they give you a warranty replacement.
    oops I wasn't clipped in

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by anzi View Post
    I tried to see if I could use my floor pump to get my Unit's Trailblazers mounted tubeless. I did this without sealent because this was just a test to see if my pump was good enough. The tires popped on perfectly and i was able to pump them up, but the other rim is leaking air from the rim joint (not from the bead of the tire). The other rim is fine and holds pressure ok. I have the rim tape that came on the bike from factory. Sealant propably would seal the leak, but I started to wonder if the rim is something I shoud contact the shop I bought it from for a warranty replacement or not. Today is Sunday, so I can't call there today... Is it totally normal for tubeless ready rims to leak like that from the joint?
    is it a pinned rim or a welded rim? if it's a pinned rim there will often be a minor crack and it's no big deal. just cover it with tubeless tape. if you think it's a defect in the rim then ask about a warranty replacement. hopefully the shop can help you determine if it's normal or a defect.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  78. #78
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    I would worry about the rim loosing strength and causing a nasty failure. I guess I'll keep an eye out for mine. Goodluck

  79. #79
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    its an pined alex brand rim. pretty normal to leak at the joint most will just let your stan's or orange seal do its job and never have a problem. If your relay worried use some spray coat rubber leak fix and that will seal it good. when the rim says tubeless ready it is intending a sealant to be applied.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  80. #80
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    Lots of bike rims are pinned, and they leak. Plenty strong, so I wouldn't worry about that aspect. Difference between tubeless and tubeless ready. The tubeless ready requires tape, while true UST tubeless rims are completely sealed on the tire side. I'd rather have tubeless ready because I prefer the easier spoke design. My WTB rims are pinned to, and a simple strip of electrical tape did the job of sealing the seam up.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  81. #81
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    I learned on another forum that the place where air is exiting the rim is probably not the place where it's entering the rim. So I might have a bad tape job or crappy valve. I had to put tubes back so I can commute with the bike. I'll investigate further when I have sealant, new valves and some tape.

  82. #82
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    Just got my Unit today! Got it going tubeless and I had a leak on both rims at the seams as well. After 5 minutes and rotating wheels seems sealant took care of the problem. Again this was right at the point where the rim is fuzed together. Can't wait to get it on the trail! One of konas supplied removable valve core was a fail, but swapped it out with one lying around and back on track.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driverfound337 View Post
    Just got my Unit today!
    pics or it didn't happen!
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  84. #84
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    Well I didn't get a live version picture but I got the after my ride picture, just the same it explains the truth. Never had a rim do this but I am not the only one so ride on. First ride impressions were very good! Better wheel set would be about all it needs in my opinion.
    IMG_5694 by driverfound337, on Flickr

  85. #85
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    I just threw a small strip of electrical tape across the seam, then taped the rim up. No problems with it. (WTB i29 asym rim, similar bead shape).
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  86. #86
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    So here it is, 20 miles on it so far. Man do I love the green color! This is a fun easy bike anyone can enjoy. The Unit does offer a nice steel ride which is smooth and meaty tires make the Unit surprisingly smooth ride. It's maneuverable and capable for a 1,000$ and ready to perform. I will say the wheelset is heavy in my opinion, it would be the first place for improvement and I believe it could change my opinion a lot on this bike. I enjoy the rear hub engagement strangely in it's smooth quiet operation. TRP brakes went off after 6 miles and found myself much happier on Shimano Deore Stoppers on stock tektro rotors. Just barely got it set up tubeless on a floor pump with valve cores removed. Went with Orange Seal and had plenty of leaking around joints and spokes. But after a ride things seem quiet and sealed up fine. Next tire change I will setup my own tape preference but for now all is well. The bike certainly rolls slower so don't expect increased PR's on this one at least not in my case.
    I will say that the added meat on the rim and tire is not enough "fun" for me to choose over my 29" 2.3" tired rigid Trek Superfly. It probably has a lot to do with my Trek Superfly is 20 pounds, that said this was really bought as a backup bike and to change things up when I don't feel like working my smaller tires so hard over the desert terrain. Wish I could get a wheelset on it to see a difference but for now it sits as is. This only happens to be my experience and hope no one gets too worked up just felt like sharing, Happy trails

    History
    2006 Raleigh XXIX Rigid Single Broke two
    2012 Raleigh XXIX Rigid Single Broke one
    2014 Custom Steel Rigid Single Broke one
    2015 Custom Steel Rigid Sinlge Broke one
    2015 Trek Super Fly Rigid Single Surviving so far

    IMG_5691 by driverfound337, on Flickr
    IMG_5689 by driverfound337, on Flickr
    IMG_5694 by driverfound337, on Flickr
    IMG_5704 by driverfound337, on Flickr
    IMG_5703 by driverfound337, on Flickr

  87. #87
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    Driverfound337 a lighter wheel set with more engagement makes a world of difference. Also I feel the unit shines more on tight technical stuff then on open fast. I find myself on normal days now cleaning tech climbs and sections that I would struggle through on a good days with my 29r.

    I also love the matte green it just feels at one on the trail.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  88. #88
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    Throw this in rear. It's a cheap upgrade. It will make you lighter in the rear and faster. Keep the front existing setup to experiment with your suspension. Then put put something more fat and aggressive up front. If it's a direct mount chain ring, you could probably run a smaller chain ring 30t to 26t and a smaller cog in the rear. Think about an upgrade to weight ratio. You could also run it geared but that's going to bring up the cost substantially.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickyFiggz View Post
    If it's a direct mount chain ring, you could probably run a smaller chain ring 30t to 26t and a smaller cog in the rear.
    keep in mind, the smaller chainring and cog you use, the more tension the chain will have and the higher chance of busting a chain. The force you're applying to the ground and the rear hub is the same regardless of the cog set you use, so when you use a smaller ring, higher tension in the chain and teeth. also have less teeth for the chain to pull against, increasing the chance of chain slipping (shouldn't be an issue with properly adjusted chain tension, but it could happen).
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    The force you're applying to the ground and the rear hub is the same regardless of the cog set you use
    Holding gear ratio constant, a larger ring/sprocket combo is more efficient (less drivetrain loss) than a smaller ring/sprocket combo. I think it's God's way of punishing weight weenies looking to save grams by swapping in smaller rings/sprockets on a SS.
    2017 Diamondback Haanjo
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  91. #91
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    Another random question for you all with the olive drab green unit. Are the Kona logos stickers that can be removed? Or are they under the clear-coat?

    Thanks,
    -A
    Disclaimer: I'm a fan-boi for Jenson USA.

  92. #92
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    pretty sure they are decals not stickers think they are under some coating but hard to tell. pretty hard to tell they are even on the bike unless your looking for them. very stealth.
    No guts no glory, No brains same story.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryder1 View Post
    Holding gear ratio constant, a larger ring/sprocket combo is more efficient (less drivetrain loss) than a smaller ring/sprocket combo. I think it's God's way of punishing weight weenies looking to save grams by swapping in smaller rings/sprockets on a SS.
    You guys are harsh just a suggestion. It would be a not so expensive upgrade compared to carbon components. However, back in the summer, I ended up snapping a plate on one of the links running 34:16 ratio, mainly for urban BMX like use. I thought it might have been because I was running 3/32 cog on a 1/8 chain.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickyFiggz View Post
    You guys are harsh just a suggestion.

    I thought it might have been because I was running 3/32 cog on a 1/8 chain.
    Didn't want to seem harsh. I spent my first couple years riding thinking a smaller cog up front was better, then one day I did the math and I was surprised by the 50% extra tension that was put on the chain using a 22T chainring and an 11-28 cassette vs. the 32T chainring and a wide range cassette. Unless weight weenie is necessary (steel frame weight weenie?), for fun and bulletproof riding, go big gears. Just not so big they get bashed on rocks/roots.

    I planned on using a 9-speed chain for singlespeed. Everything I found said it was just as good (and sometimes better) than single speed chains. Anybody have trail side experience with wide vs. narrow chains?
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by anzi View Post
    I tried to see if I could use my floor pump to get my Unit's Trailblazers mounted tubeless. I did this without sealent because this was just a test to see if my pump was good enough. The tires popped on perfectly and i was able to pump them up, but the other rim is leaking air from the rim joint (not from the bead of the tire). The other rim is fine and holds pressure ok. I have the rim tape that came on the bike from factory. Sealant propably would seal the leak, but I started to wonder if the rim is something I shoud contact the shop I bought it from for a warranty replacement or not. Today is Sunday, so I can't call there today... Is it totally normal for tubeless ready rims to leak like that from the joint?
    I put Schwalbe tubeless valves and sealant on the wheels, and they sealed instantly. Only on one drop of sealant visible on the "problematic" wheel between the rim joint and tyre bead. So, I guess I just had a tubeless-novice panic, and and all is fine!

  96. #96
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    anyone know what travel fork would be most appropriate for this bike?

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    anyone know what travel fork would be most appropriate for this bike?
    Depends what you're going to be using it for.
    I was running a Manitou Marvel 100mm and am now running an old Fox F29 80mm.
    For my riding, I prefer the 80mm. If it was my only bike, 100mm.

  98. #98
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    im planning on a ss build and rigid initially but wouldnt mind a 100mm fork at some point should my old fella wrist and elbows decide its needful...

  99. #99
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    Has anyone tried 29er wheels in the 2017 yet?

  100. #100
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    I've got em in mine. WTB Asym I29 with a 2.4" ardent up front and a random 2.3" WTB in back. Plenty of room to go bigger up front. Sitting about mid point on the rear sliding dropouts, and I think I could easily get a 2.8" 29er in there. Larger than that, will have to depend on the tire/rim combo. Of course, none of the tire manufacturers are actually supplying a 3.0" tire that's truly 3.0" Have to trial and error measure.
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