Words on the new Warden 2020 ? - Page 2- Mtbr.com
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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by knollybikes.com View Post
    In theory it's possible just as it is with the Fugitive, but unlike the Fugitive, we have not tested 2x drivetrains on this bike, so you'll be on your own a bit in terms of figuring things out. The Warden does not have cable routing for FDs (which the Fugitive does have): you would have to fix the cable down the down tube.

    Cheers,
    I'll let you know how I get on.

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  2. #202
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    Has anyone considered trying the Warden as mullet? Seems like it has potential!

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dude! View Post
    Has anyone considered trying the Warden as mullet? Seems like it has potential!
    Doing it on my Delirium soon. Already got a 29er Fox 38. #futureproof lolz

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  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by boylagz View Post
    Doing it on my Delirium soon. Already got a 29er Fox 38. #futureproof lolz

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    Awesome - thanks! So how long a 29er fork are starting with? Can't wait to hear how it turns out!

  5. #205
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    Loving the updates to the 2020 Warden

    Great reviews from everyone else.

    My quick 2c is that they took the First Gen Warden and improved it incrementally in all the right ways.

    I did a mostly full parts swap to the regular 160/160 2020 Warden (new shock, rear wheel and dropper) from my Carbon Warden. I have been riding it for a few months but with limited time as I have been dealing with some back issues.

    I am 5'11" I am on the Large with a shorter 35mm stem.

    For the way I ride and the trails I ride it feels like the changes are just what were needed.

    Climbing efficiency has improved dramatically and I have set a few pr's climbing this year even though I haven't been on the bike as much as much as I would have liked. I assume this is due to the steeper seat tube angle and the increased anti squat. I don't do alot of technical climbing but when I do I don't feel like I need to reach for the climb switch like the previous Warden.

    Flatter pedaly smooth terrain I feel like more of my effort goes to the back wheel and love the acceleration.

    Cornering took a few days to adjust from the previous bike and being a touch more aggressive and starting the turn a bit earlier helps and I am feeling more confident now.

    High speed descending is where I love this bike going fast over rough terrain this bike feels at home. I have come into corners carrying soo much more speed. The added stability of the longer wheelbase was definitely needed as I found the previous gen to get a little twitchy feeling when pushing at high speeds.

    It does suffer a bit in slower speed really tight corners but I will take the trade offs for what I mentioned above.

    Not sure if the next change should be 170 fork or if a mullet setup but that will have to wait for now as I am loving the bike the way it is.

    Words on the new Warden 2020 ?-adlj4468%5B1%5D.jpg

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dude! View Post
    Has anyone considered trying the Warden as mullet? Seems like it has potential!
    Here you go...

    https://www.knollybikes.com/post/mul...st-a-hairstyle

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by IslandForLife View Post
    Dumb question, so I apologize....
    Are Mullets mainly run with a 27.5 bike with a 29r fork slapped on it? Can you do a 29r bike and slap a 27.5 rear tire to make a mullet as well? Pros and Cons?
    THX

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    Dumb question, so I apologize....
    Are Mullets mainly run with a 27.5 bike with a 29r fork slapped on it? Can you do a 29r bike and slap a 27.5 rear tire to make a mullet as well? Pros and Cons?
    THX
    I am definitely not an expert on this and believe you should contact the manufacturer for detailed info on what mulleting (either way) will do to your geometry.

    In saying that, I'm right in the middle of giving my new Warden the "party in the back, business in the front" look. The thought had been boiling in my brain for a little while, then reading about those who had done it, as well as reaching out to Ken to get a bit more info on geometry changes, I started the process.

    For me, I started out with a 2020 Fox36 Grip2 170mm travel 27.5 front wheel and fork. I am switching to a 2021 Fox36 Grip2 160mm 29 wheel and fork. Since I had gone with a 170mm fork, my geometry was already altered by approx 0.5 degrees (slacker). And I had pretty much settled on riding it in the slack mode.

    Switching to a 160mm 29'r wheel/fork will further slacken my HTA by approx 1 degree. Even with the reduced travel, the axle to crown measurement of the 160mm 29r fork vs the 170mm 27.5 fork is still 10mm more. I'll gain 0.75 of those degrees back by switching to riding in the neutral mode which will give me an approx 64 degree HTA. I was really enjoying the progressiveness of the slack setting, back I just add a band or two to my shock. I'll definitely be trying the slack mode out of course... that 63.25 degree head angle sounds intriguing!

    Keep in mind... more aspects of your geometry are affected by doing this... wheelbase extends a little, reach shortens a little, stack increases, and your bottom bracket will be a little higher. I'm ok with all of that... but some people may not be.

    Regarding giving the Mullet treatment to a full 29r bike, I believe that is more difficult as you can run into really low bottom bracket issues when you drop the rear wheel size on a bike designed for a 29 inch rear wheel. Good question though... I wonder how much it would affect the geometry of the Fugitive LT..?Perhaps allow for a longer stroke shock?? Fugitive LT LT? with 145 or 150mm of rear travel mated with a 160mm fork up front? Hmmm...
    Last edited by IslandForLife; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:19 AM.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by IslandForLife View Post
    I am definitely not an expert on this and believe you should contact the manufacturer for detailed info on what mulleting (either way) will do to your geometry.

    In saying that, I'm right in the middle of giving my new Warden the "business in the back, party in the front" look. The thought had been boiling in my brain for a little while, then reading about those who had done it, as well as reaching out to Ken to get a bit more info on geometry changes, I started the process.

    For me, I started out with a 2020 Fox36 Grip2 170mm travel 27.5 front wheel and fork. I am switching to a 2021 Fox36 Grip2 160mm 29 wheel and fork. Since I had gone with a 170mm fork, my geometry was already altered by approx 0.5 degrees (slacker). And I had pretty much settled on riding it in the slack mode.

    Switching to a 160mm 29'r wheel/fork will further slacken my HTA by approx 1 degree. Even with the reduced travel, the axle to crown measurement of the 160mm 29r fork vs the 170mm 27.5 fork is still 10mm more. I'll gain 0.75 of those degrees back by switching to riding in the neutral mode which will give me an approx 64 degree HTA. I was really enjoying the progressiveness of the slack setting, back I just add a band or two to my shock. I'll definitely be trying the slack mode out of course... that 63.25 degree head angle sounds intriguing!

    Keep in mind... more aspects of your geometry are affected by doing this... wheelbase extends a little, reach shortens a little, stack increases, and your bottom bracket will be a little higher. I'm ok with all of that... but some people may not be.

    Regarding giving the Mullet treatment to a full 29r bike, I believe that is more difficult as you can run into really low bottom bracket issues when you drop the rear wheel size on a bike designed for a 29 inch rear wheel. Good question though... I wonder how much it would affect the geometry of the Fugitive LT..?Perhaps allow for a longer stroke shock?? Fugitive LT LT? with 145 or 150mm of rear travel mated with a 160mm fork up front? Hmmm...
    So when is the transformation happening? Thanks for the link above - good to read. It seems like folks are bumping up the travel without bike handling issues.

    Interesting that you are looking to go that slack. I think I would be content is 150mm front 29er with 160mm rear 27.5 to keep the geometry closer to its design intent. I believe as far fork travel goes, that I would not overly notice the diference in travel between 150 to 170mm fork as much as I would notice more geometric changes and its influences in weighting/balance. For me it is finding that perfect front center that balances the bike's geometry, amount of fork travel is more of geometric tuner once past 150mm. That's just me though. I look forward to hearing more!

    Are you going short fork offset or long?

    I like hearing about this versatility!!!

  10. #210
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    I ran my Fugitive LT last year with a 160mm fork in the slack mode and it was amazing. Warden with a 170 is even amazing-er. Iíd stick with a 170 29r if it didnít mess with the geometry so much. I think 64 degrees with 160 29r fork will be pretty much perfect.

    In progress as in my new fork/tire/wheel/insert are all a few days away. Will probably have everything in hand next week and be riding it by the next weekend.
    Last edited by IslandForLife; 08-28-2020 at 01:13 PM.

  11. #211
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    suspension play

    OK had this bike since March I believe and have rode it a ton. It is my only bike and i have reveiwed it on this thread and it is still great. HAve a question though, there seems to be some play in the suspension. If I lift on the seat tube and hold the tire there is some movement up and down and all of the bearing and bolts are perfectly torqued. also I changed the shock and both the air and coil did the same so I know it isnt the shock hardware. anyhow have a similar experience and if so how did you fix it?

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenwood72 View Post
    OK had this bike since March I believe and have rode it a ton. It is my only bike and i have reveiwed it on this thread and it is still great. HAve a question though, there seems to be some play in the suspension. If I lift on the seat tube and hold the tire there is some movement up and down and all of the bearing and bolts are perfectly torqued. also I changed the shock and both the air and coil did the same so I know it isnt the shock hardware. anyhow have a similar experience and if so how did you fix it?
    Call Knolly directly.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenwood72 View Post
    OK had this bike since March I believe and have rode it a ton. It is my only bike and i have reveiwed it on this thread and it is still great. HAve a question though, there seems to be some play in the suspension. If I lift on the seat tube and hold the tire there is some movement up and down and all of the bearing and bolts are perfectly torqued. also I changed the shock and both the air and coil did the same so I know it isnt the shock hardware. anyhow have a similar experience and if so how did you fix it?
    All FS bikes will develop play in the linkage as the parts wear out, not saying for sure that is what is going on but it might be. Try grabbing each pivot, bearing, moving part, while moving the suspension up and down and find out where the play is coming from. On my chilcotin it is the shock hardware wearing out (aluminum)

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex345 View Post
    All FS bikes will develop play in the linkage as the parts wear out, not saying for sure that is what is going on but it might be. Try grabbing each pivot, bearing, moving part, while moving the suspension up and down and find out where the play is coming from. On my chilcotin it is the shock hardware wearing out (aluminum)
    i don't disagree this just seems kinda premature, this is something i always check and it seems to be coming from the upper link in the suspension. maybe it is just a product of the design, which is not a big issue just asking if others have the same play. the bike is great and honestly i have ridden it a ton and love it. i was actually going to buy a new evil wreckoning as I got caught up in the hype but then remembered how much i love this bike and that i am no where near pushing its limits, i do think though my next bike may be an Ebike sadly....or i need to shuttle more cuz after two hours of climbing i am tired on the dh more than i use to be, though maybe i need more fitness too i am 48.

  15. #215
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    I think if you find the part that is causing the play it may be a warranty replacement since it is new . On my chili i replaced the main pivot axle bearings twice (first time within the first year), a few of the others, broke a shock bolt, and I snapped one of the linkage yokes (warranty replacement).

  16. #216
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    I have similar play on my Fugitive after ~9 months of regular riding. I am attributing it to the pivot bushings which Knolly sells a replacement kit for, although they are sold out at the moment, perhaps because this is common. It seems like a wear item to me and I wouldn't say it is a problem with design/materials. Its fairly cheap and easy to replace, once they are back in stock I will pop the new bushings in and see if that tightens things back up.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenwood72 View Post
    i don't disagree this just seems kinda premature, this is something i always check and it seems to be coming from the upper link in the suspension. maybe it is just a product of the design, which is not a big issue just asking if others have the same play. the bike is great and honestly i have ridden it a ton and love it. i was actually going to buy a new evil wreckoning as I got caught up in the hype but then remembered how much i love this bike and that i am no where near pushing its limits, i do think though my next bike may be an Ebike sadly....or i need to shuttle more cuz after two hours of climbing i am tired on the dh more than i use to be, though maybe i need more fitness too i am 48.
    kenwood72:

    You're local to Vancouver, so we can try and find out what's happening. Let me know
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  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by coachfillip View Post
    I have similar play on my Fugitive after ~9 months of regular riding. I am attributing it to the pivot bushings which Knolly sells a replacement kit for, although they are sold out at the moment, perhaps because this is common. It seems like a wear item to me and I wouldn't say it is a problem with design/materials. Its fairly cheap and easy to replace, once they are back in stock I will pop the new bushings in and see if that tightens things back up.
    Just confirming some parts orders with our vendors this week, but I think these will be back in stock in the relatively near future. Sorry for any delays: to say that things are "unprecedented in the bike industry" right now is massively understating the current level of craziness industry wide!
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  19. #219
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    Question to ya'all Warden v2 riders! Anybody running 2.8 tires, and if so what are your thoughts? I built mine up with some beefy 2.6 WTB's and it's been good, but I just ordered up a pair of Maxxis Rekon 2.8 skinwalls. Can't wait to try and see how they ride.

  20. #220
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    Question to ya'all Warden v2 riders! Anybody running 2.8 tires, and if so what are your thoughts? I built mine up with some beefy 2.6 WTB's and it's been good, but I just ordered up a pair of Maxxis Rekon 2.8 skinwalls. Can't wait to try and see how they ride.

  21. #221
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    Has anyone externally routed a brake hose?

    I'm thinking attaching one to the cable entry near the headtube, fitting a couple of clamps to the water bottle bosses, then under the shock and along the chainstay.

    Same on the other side for the front derailleur cable.

    from the Shockcraft mobile typewriter
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  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by knollybikes.com View Post
    kenwood72:

    You're local to Vancouver, so we can try and find out what's happening. Let me know
    vancouver wa, not bc-dont think they will let me in. play seems to be getting worse after a few more long rides.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sharp7 View Post
    Question to ya'all Warden v2 riders! Anybody running 2.8 tires, and if so what are your thoughts? I built mine up with some beefy 2.6 WTB's and it's been good, but I just ordered up a pair of Maxxis Rekon 2.8 skinwalls. Can't wait to try and see how they ride.
    No regrets and loving the ride.
    Very glad I went with 2.8 right from the start!
    Last edited by Dawgprimo; 09-02-2020 at 07:48 PM.
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  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenwood72 View Post
    vancouver wa, not bc-dont think they will let me in. play seems to be getting worse after a few more long rides.
    Have you e-mailed us at our [email protected] e-mail address?
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  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by knollybikes.com View Post
    Have you e-mailed us at our [email protected] e-mail address?
    thanks, i just filled out the warranty claim section on your website, bike is less than 6 months old so hopefully we can get it all sorted out. appreciate your help.

  26. #226
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    Mulleting my Delirium, building the front wheel tomorrow. Im very curious if there's a noticeable diff. vs 275 fr and fr. Measuring my bb height before and after. Note Im already running a 29 Fox 38 atm at 170mm, bike feels balanced albeit moar pedal strikes, but man this fork is unreal.

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  27. #227
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    Riding the Chilcotin for several years I am looking at the new Warden. Been happy with the Chilcotin, especially in steep, technical and lowspeed terrain. But always felt the bike is a little small riding bikepark terrain, bike donít feels as stable at high speed. Will the new Warden give more stability as well keeping the agility of the Chilcotin?

    Im 6í1 riding a L Chilcotin.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by FattigBalle View Post
    Riding the Chilcotin for several years I am looking at the new Warden. Been happy with the Chilcotin, especially in steep, technical and lowspeed terrain. But always felt the bike is a little small riding bikepark terrain, bike donít feels as stable at high speed. Will the new Warden give more stability as well keeping the agility of the Chilcotin?
    I can confidently say your mind will be blown.

    The v2 is going to be every bit as capable especially in steep, janky tech; but much more stable at speed. And climbing is going to feel like an ebike compared to your chili. The new geo really does make a huge difference.

  29. #229
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    Fork offset?

    Hi there,
    finally pulled the trigger on a Warden LT frame with a X2 shock to replace my old V1 Warden. My plan is to put a Fox 38 Factory 170mm on the front. But I don't know what offset. On my Fugitive they were only offering the reduced offset on the forks and now I saw on the Knolly homepage that all the builds come with a regular fork offset (44mm). Any thoughts about the reduced offset (37mm). Would the difference be noticeable? Or what would be the better choice?

    Cheers

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by wessisch View Post
    Hi there,
    finally pulled the trigger on a Warden LT frame with a X2 shock to replace my old V1 Warden. My plan is to put a Fox 38 Factory 170mm on the front. But I don't know what offset. On my Fugitive they were only offering the reduced offset on the forks and now I saw on the Knolly homepage that all the builds come with a regular fork offset (44mm). Any thoughts about the reduced offset (37mm). Would the difference be noticeable? Or what would be the better choice?

    Cheers
    Hi wessisch!

    Thank you!

    For 27.5" forks, the 170mm 38 forks are offered with the standard 44mm offset / rake. For 180mm forks on the Delirium, we do have a an option for 37mm offsets (when available). The differences move the 180mm fork (what we spec on what is effectively the Delirium) into a situation where the bike is more stable in high speed situations and extremely aggressive terrain, but with a reduction in slower speed stability. While not technically correct, you can think of the reduction in offset equivalent to a reduction of head angle by a quarter of a degree or so.

    So, it depends what you want. The bike is already insanely capable with a 170mm fork and 44mm offset in "neutral geometry" mode: this is the "general purpose, aggressive terrain" bike build for the Warden LT. In slack mode, the bike is insanely capable.

    For customers that are looking for a dedicated heavy duty bike and want to move towards the Delirium, the spec changes (more rear travel, heavier duty tires, longer fork travel with 37mm fork offset) help to further differentiate the frame away fro "do everything" and more towards purely descending focused and FR / Bike park usage.

    Hope that helps!
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  31. #231
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    Does the Warden feel way bigger than the Chilcotin or is the difference minor?

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by FattigBalle View Post
    Does the Warden feel way bigger than the Chilcotin or is the difference minor?
    I can't speak to the Warden, but I am 6' tall and went from a L Chilcotin (which I loved) to a L Fugitive. The Warden has a longer reach than the Fugitive, but I imagine the fit to feel similar. Things I noticed when going Chili to Fugi were a way better pedalling position and the longer reach puts you further forward which allows for more aggressive descending. Chili is still an awesome bike, but I would not want to go back!

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by FattigBalle View Post
    Does the Warden feel way bigger than the Chilcotin or is the difference minor?
    There is a massive difference in front center geometry between the two models:

    • The reach measurement of the new 2020 Warden is 56mm (2.2") longer than the 2012-2014 Chilcotin;
    • The ETT is 35mm longer on the new 2020 Warden vs the 2012 - 2014 Chilcotin.

    https://www.knollybikes.com/older-bike-models

    https://www.knollybikes.com/wardenv2

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  34. #234
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    I didn't want 2.8 tires on a bike this big but wanted to try 2.6! Maxxis don't have what I would have liked so I finally did buy those Michelin Wild Enduro! Was about to buy the 2.6 but some people scared me and is only available on the harder compound so I bought the 2.4! My friend bought the 2.6 so maybe I could borrow his front wheel to test it one day!

    I thought about going mullet this winter when building it but didn't do it because I was afraid of climbing/geo. If I knew it had a good straight position and was climbing so well, I would have done it for sure!!!! Now I would need to sell my nobl/i9 wheels and I'm pretty sure there is no bike except the warden that is 27.5 (non +) superboost so that would be a tough sell! Also, I wasnt sure for the balance as I would have to go 150mm! 150mm 29er fork =170mm 27.5 fork but would still be higher/slacker because of the wheel's height difference. 160 or 170mm 29 is probably only good for shuttle or chairlift or if you're small and don't care going back to a slack seattube like warden V1. I do care. lol

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by HH4L View Post
    I didn't want 2.8 tires on a bike this big but wanted to try 2.6! Maxxis don't have what I would have liked so I finally did buy those Michelin Wild Enduro! Was about to buy the 2.6 but some people scared me and is only available on the harder compound so I bought the 2.4! My friend bought the 2.6 so maybe I could borrow his front wheel to test it one day!

    I thought about going mullet this winter when building it but didn't do it because I was afraid of climbing/geo. If I knew it had a good straight position and was climbing so well, I would have done it for sure!!!! Now I would need to sell my nobl/i9 wheels and I'm pretty sure there is no bike except the warden that is 27.5 (non +) superboost so that would be a tough sell! Also, I wasnt sure for the balance as I would have to go 150mm! 150mm 29er fork =170mm 27.5 fork but would still be higher/slacker because of the wheel's height difference. 160 or 170mm 29 is probably only good for shuttle or chairlift or if you're small and don't care going back to a slack seattube like warden V1. I do care. lol
    Just a note regarding my mullet... as I get more kms under my Mullet Warden... if you've got spacers under your stem, you have another method of keeping the front end height under control. So I went from riding in the slack position with 170mm 27.5 fork with 15mm under my stem to riding in the neutral position with a 160mm 29 fork with 10mm under my stem. So my numbers didn't change much at all... and I can tell you the way this thing handles (climbing and descending) with that 29 inch wheel up front is blowing me away. Any negatives of moving to a mullet set-up have been totally negated by the way the bike now handles and rides. For some reason, maybe it's the roll-over plus the momentum carrying ability of the 29 inch wheel combined with the quick acceleration and ability to get the power down quickly of the 27.5 out back... but I swear this bike climbs better (especially steep tech) than it did with with 27.5 on both ends. In my last couple of rides, I've cleaned some tech sections that I failed at even when I was on my Fugitive LT last year. It's giving me tons of confidence right now.

    I am loving life with the mullet set-up and honestly, with the way this bike feels right now... I don't think I'd go back to a full 29r or full 27.5.

  36. #236
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    I wouldn't care and maybe even be happy to have a higher front end. I just really don't want to go back to a slack seattube (my seat is way higher than my handlebar) now that I finally have that position that I wanted! :P

    For sure a 29er front wheel can't be worse than a 27 for climbing... in fact I didn't really like jumping and turning on a 29 but climbing, oh boy what a joy!! I want a 29er only for that! lol Didn't think only a front 29'' wheel would help with that though!

    As much as I ****ing love my warden LT, I am now thinking about a 29er once again.... decided not to go with it last year but I'm getting older and older and my body would probably love it. looll Otherwise I'll try to sell my wheels and do a mullet with it.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by IslandForLife View Post
    Just a note regarding my mullet...

    I am loving life with the mullet set-up and honestly, with the way this bike feels right now... I don't think I'd go back to a full 29r or full 27.5.
    I have been a Mullet guy for a long time. I have also owned pretty much every Knolly except the Vtach and the Free Radical.

    My first Mullet was the Podium, which I raced at Crankworks and USA Nationals at Mammoth. The 27.5/26 was great. It made everything better, and didnt affect the geometry at all (I dropped the stantions to make the fork the same axle-crown. There is probably an old thread around.

    My second and third Mullets were the Gen2 Delirium, first in L, then XL. Being a delirium there was slack mode, which helped. I also used a Cane Creek Angleset on both bikes, since they were DH race bikes. I had to go to the limits of dropping the stantions, and minimizing spacers, but felt fine without having to reduce the travel in the fork.

    My 4th Knolly Mullet is my Carbon Warden. Since I have the Fugitive, I didnt need a bike so close to the Fugitive in capability. Part of the problem is that the Fugitive is do darn capable, I was having trouble finding terrain that the warden would do better at. I have the Helm on the Fugitive, We Are One carbon rims laced to Hadley hubs, so its super stiff for a 29r.

    I thought the 27.5 front was the big limiting factor in making the Warden more chunk worthy, so decided to make it for those double black diamond enduro runs, since the Fugitive would do every thing else so well. Remember the Warden Carbon is 155mm, so its not exactly comparable to the v2 Warden.

    I have a Fox 36 at 160mm travel. This is the same travel for as I came from (minus the PUSH treatment of the older fork)

    I have a PUSH 11-6 coil on the Warden.


    Results: I couldnt be happier. It would be nice to have the v2 Warden, but I am happy with the Warden C as a mullet. I cut the steerer a little long, just in case I wanted spacers under the stem. I kept the same spacers so the front end is MUCH higher. it feels almost like my DH bike, and very different. However, this is what I was going for. On big chunk I tend to get a little whiplash on a short travel bike (short travel = 160-180mm) when I cant extend my arms all the way. At slower speeds, or something not as steep, its not an issue. So having the front end taller actually makes it really nice. I will slam it down with just a 1mm or 2.5mm spacer, just to see how it feels. I am sure it will be faster, but I may go for more comfort, since I am not going to race an EWS any time soon.

    I was going to do the TransBC on the Warden this year. I did it last year on the Fugitive, so that would have been a nice comparison. For the local CDC enduros, I am pretty sure the Fugitive would be faster, since I am usually limited by endurance.

    But then....Covid.

    In any event, I love the mullet for my 27.5 Knolly's. Having the option to go to slack mode is one of the things that makes it work so well. Also having an active rear end that generally out performs the front end (traditional fork) makes upping the tire to 29 a better all around choice.

    Frankly, I would like to see a dedicated DH bike in mullet format. The 29 DH bikes are not ideal imo, esp on steep stuff, since you end up buzzing your butt too often. A 27.5 rear solves this.

    There is a small learning curve to riding and racing a 29/275. And rear tire choice is very important (A HR2, or Hans Dampf wouldnt work well, but I have run DHR2, Assegai, MM, and the Shorty with good results)

    Those are my thoughts. lmk if you have any questions or comments.
    Regional Race Manager, Knolly Bikes
    Washington, Oregon, Montana, Idaho, Wyoming

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by knollybikes.com View Post
    Have you e-mailed us at our [email protected] e-mail address?
    Noel sorry to bring this here but three contact attempts with no response, one via your website warranty page and one direct email, and a call on Monday. Did talk to someone and she took my phone number and said she would return my call

    Need to understand the process of how to deduce if this is a warranty claim as the bike is still less than 6 months old.

    thanks!!

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenwood72 View Post
    Noel sorry to bring this here but three contact attempts with no response, one via your website warranty page and one direct email, and a call on Monday. Did talk to someone and she took my phone number and said she would return my call

    Need to understand the process of how to deduce if this is a warranty claim as the bike is still less than 6 months old.

    thanks!!
    I'll PM you - apologies - we're beyond slammed right now and lead times are longer than usual given - everything LOL...

    Noel
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  40. #240
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    Hey I was wondering if anyone here has bought a Knolly from their site and had it shipped to the US, and could give me an idea of how bad the import fees are? I totally didn't think about it but some past forum posts for other bikes suggest it might be up to 13% which would suck

  41. #241
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    I paid $50 shipping to New Hampshire. No import fees.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jtravnh View Post
    I paid $50 shipping to New Hampshire. No import fees.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the info I'm super glad to hear that!

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zae5op View Post
    Thanks for the info I'm super glad to hear that!
    We are smart with our shipping and if you're purchasing direct from us, we cover the USA inbound duties / brokerage.

    Please note - however - that our shipping prices have risen recently as rates from shipping providers have jumped considerably due to Covid related shipping challenges.

    Cheers!
    Noel Buckley
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  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zae5op View Post
    Hey I was wondering if anyone here has bought a Knolly from their site and had it shipped to the US, and could give me an idea of how bad the import fees are? I totally didn't think about it but some past forum posts for other bikes suggest it might be up to 13% which would suck
    Shipping charge on my Warden (frame only) was around $75 and no import fee I think.

  45. #245
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    Thanks for the info, super stoked on this bike it can't come soon enough!

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zae5op View Post
    Thanks for the info, super stoked on this bike it can't come soon enough!
    Where are you from? Here's a little teaser for you
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Words on the new Warden 2020 ?-img_5399.jpg  

    Last edited by 2sharp7; 09-25-2020 at 04:17 PM.

  47. #247
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    Been trying to get my hands on a 2021 36 but they are hard to come by and I noticed that the 38 was available. Stoked to see how this feels...going to have to ride some gnar this weekend!

    I may have said this before...but holy @([email protected] this bike is rad.

    I am switching between the V2 and a Chromag Rootdown (while I wait!) and it is such a stunning contrast in bikes. I feel like i am riding so much smoother and smarter due to time on the hardtail...but freaking eh...had a couple rides on the V2 that are hard to explain! Shoulda called this bike the "honey badger".

    Words on the new Warden 2020 ?-2020-09-24-20.44.28.jpg
    I support EMBA

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sharp7 View Post
    Where are you from? Here's a little teaser for you
    I'm from Seattle so mostly ride the I-90 corridor but also try to get north of the border whenever possible! I think the Warden is gonna be pretty awesome here

  49. #249
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    Switching between slack & neutral - do you need to make adjustments on the shock, or are you good to go just changing positions of the shock?

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by n3sta View Post
    Switching between slack & neutral - do you need to make adjustments on the shock, or are you good to go just changing positions of the shock?
    No Shock adjustments necessary.

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by n3sta View Post
    Switching between slack & neutral - do you need to make adjustments on the shock, or are you good to go just changing positions of the shock?
    Depends on the rider... you definitely do not have to... but the leverage ratio is a little more progressive in Slack vs Neutral. From my Fugitive LT to this years Warden, I've always preferred Slack not just for the geometry but also the progressiveness of the suspension.

    Now that I've set mine up as a Mullet and need to keep it in the neutral position... I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I'll be adding a band to the shock to get that progressiveness back.

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by IslandForLife View Post
    Depends on the rider... you definitely do not have to... but the leverage ratio is a little more progressive in Slack vs Neutral. From my Fugitive LT to this years Warden, I've always preferred Slack not just for the geometry but also the progressiveness of the suspension.

    Now that I've set mine up as a Mullet and need to keep it in the neutral position... I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I'll be adding a band to the shock to get that progressiveness back.
    I added a few psi to my shock after switching to slack mode. Seems to stay up in it's travel a bit better, and still gets full travel when I need it. No problems climbing in slack mode on the Fugitive LT

  53. #253
    roots, rocks, rhythm
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    Just loving the Warden!
    Still getting use to it but it is amazing.
    I built it up as an Enduro, so it is not the fastest up but I am bettering my personal times, so that is positive. (Just to clarify.....Fast for me........you won't be seeing my name on Strava, anytime soon.)
    Glad I built it up they way I like it but it was not cheap........
    Cheers!
    Kevin
    97' Brodie Expresso
    00' Turner RFX
    08' Turner RFX
    13' Surly Troll
    15' Surly ICT
    20' Knolly Warden

  54. #254
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    Apologies, been away from this thread as the mtbr app has been shlte lately. Ive ran my Delirium/Warden Mullet for maybe 2 mos. now but not much mileage. Just got a shorter 205x60 SD Ultimate with the megneg can and lowered my 29er 38 to 160mm, and so far Im loving the shorter travel/160mm mode vs. 175 of the Delirium. Before dropping to 160 from 170 up front, I measured my actual bb height and its damn high at 370mm; now its at 360ish, still taller than stock Delirium geo with a 180 27.5 fork (350mm). Im running around 33ish % sag and bike feels so damn good; good midstroke and b/o support; zero spacers inside the shock, zero bands in the megneg can, zero LSC. Wanna try some bands in the megneg can but Im prolly gonna get lazy as its pretty damn good rn.

  55. #255
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    No, I don't even see a difference between slack and neutral...I use the same amount of travel in both case so really nothing to do on the shock! If I know I'm gonna climb something steep and a bit hard, I take 2 minutes to change it. In fact I often let it on neutral but if doing a ride with a lot of steep trails, I put it in slack.. it's that easy, 2 mins max.



    Quote Originally Posted by Skooks View Post
    I added a few psi to my shock after switching to slack mode. Seems to stay up in it's travel a bit better, and still gets full travel when I need it. No problems climbing in slack mode on the Fugitive LT
    Slack mode= more progressive so should not put more psi, no?!

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by HH4L View Post
    I didn't want 2.8 tires on a bike this big but wanted to try 2.6!
    My original build was with WTB Vigilante and Trail Boss 2.6" tires. I'd been wanting to try 2.8's though from the beginning, and my rear tire center knobs were worn to the point traction was compromised, so after about 300 miles with the 2.6" tires, I swapped to 2.8" tires yesterday. One observation; The Maxxis 2.8" tires are smaller than the 2.6" WTB tires ....

  57. #257
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    Maxxis tires are notoriously small, especially when new.

  58. #258
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    I've got a Minion DHR 2.8 that comes in at 2.65 on an I29...

  59. #259
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    2 things

    are you interested in selling the coil that came with the bike?

    2nd I put a 180 zen on my warden/delirium and at 180/175 wow it felt great yesterday, better than 170/175. call me crazy but even climbing i thought my position felt better, yeah i am not climbing fast but we did about 3000 feet and all was pretty good. as for the dh the zen definitely is different, i rode a fast, natural trail with lots of rock and debris just to check out the fork settings and it was noticeably different, not that the lyric isn't awesome but i felt like the bike held a corner better, i am 215 though so i am sure I benefit from the bigger fork. anyhow i am in the minority but this bike climbs awesome for a 180/175 rig and i can imagine it better at lower travel. there is no doubt it isn't the fastest bike but it is great at everything excited to try the new set up on steeper and faster trails as i think it will shine there.

  60. #260
    roots, rocks, rhythm
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    Just a random shot of how I think is an excellent way to end an awesome ride.
    Rain stayed away and the trails were in good shape.
    No technical talk or anything.........I know......shocking!
    A glass of goodness, with the trusty but dirty steed in the background.
    Kevin

    Words on the new Warden 2020 ?-img_2894.jpg
    Last edited by Dawgprimo; 10-21-2020 at 05:48 PM.
    97' Brodie Expresso
    00' Turner RFX
    08' Turner RFX
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    20' Knolly Warden

  61. #261
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    What is the head tube length on the Warden, size L?

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by B. Rock View Post
    Maxxis tires are notoriously small, especially when new.
    True. My 2.5 WT DHF Minion I just got mounted on front is noticeably smaller than the 2.6 Dissector in back in width and volume despite the front rim being 35mm IW and the rear being 30mm IW.

    Maybe I should've went with the 2.8 DHF? Or the 2.5 Assegai?

    On a side note, it functions just fine. Super loads of traction in loose conditions this past week in Downieville and the Lakes Basin.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
    Isaiah 58:14

    www.stuckinthespokes.com

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by FattigBalle View Post
    What is the head tube length on the Warden, size L?
    660.5...Right on the company website.

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by jebcamaro View Post
    660.5...Right on the company website.
    That is the top tube, not the head tube length.

  65. #265
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    I really wish knolly would put a little more effort into providing thorough geo charts for their frames. The charts are lacking a lot of details, especially for a company that supposedly prides itself on putting engineering first.

  66. #266
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    just fyi, went back to an air shock and i think i like it better. sent my 205x60 rockshox to vorsprung, they took out the spacers to make it 205x65 and did their tune. not sure how but i think the air with their tune outperforms the cane creek coil.

  67. #267
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    The Warden geo chart does seem to be lacking which surprises me given how nicely detailed the fugitive chart is. This may speak more to a lack of web development than lack of engineering in the company though.

    I also switched back to air from a coil shock on the fugitive and I also quite like it. I found I had to run a fairly stiff coil spring to avoid a wallowy feeling back end, it is great for riding all out and I put down faster times with it but the air seems to be a bit more well rounded and fun all around.

  68. #268
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    For my budget the Warden frame has a hefty price. Anyone know or think if its possible to strike a better deal during this winter? Thx.

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by FattigBalle View Post
    For my budget the Warden frame has a hefty price. Anyone know or think if its possible to strike a better deal during this winter? Thx.
    I highly doubt there will be reduced stock this winter with bike sales the way they have been this year.

    On a side note after reading the comments in the NSMB review I am wondering if the adjustable chanstays they where alluding to for the new endorphin could make their way to the Warden as an "upgrade"

  70. #270
    roots, rocks, rhythm
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    I agree with you mtbman1980!
    You got to pay to play!
    Mind you they have sales on older stock if you want it!

    Every time I ride my bike I enjoy it that much more!
    Cheers!
    97' Brodie Expresso
    00' Turner RFX
    08' Turner RFX
    13' Surly Troll
    15' Surly ICT
    20' Knolly Warden

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbman1980 View Post
    I highly doubt there will be reduced stock this winter with bike sales the way they have been this year.

    On a side note after reading the comments in the NSMB review I am wondering if the adjustable chanstays they where alluding to for the new endorphin could make their way to the Warden as an "upgrade"

    Adjustable chainstay lenght?! I've missed that one!!! :O That would be insane for the new bikes but....not sure if it's true or fake news?!

  72. #272
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    Sounds interesting! Wonder if they're actually meaning adjustable like with sliding drop-outs, or just "adjusting" the lengths to suit each individual frame size?

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by FattigBalle View Post
    What is the head tube length on the Warden, size L?
    The large head tube length is 120mm. I think you are out of luck for a deal on the Warden. It's too new, too popular, too good.


    @GT87 & @coachfillip - The charts will be updated soon. It has nothing to do with engineering. It was about sleek and clean website. The internet has spoken though. More information the better.

  74. #274
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    Best geo chart on the web, I hate to say it... the new SJ EVO. Building the database to support a simple interactive tool that shows you what happens when you go slack, over fork, mullet, different seat heights, etc, is trivial, and would go a long way with the nerds, myself included.

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