Need fork advice, 06' Komodo 2.0- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Need fork advice, 06' Komodo 2.0

    -I'm having trouble sourcing a decent non-taper 100-130mm fork for this olive green Komodo 2.0 that I scored for $50 It came with a busted Suntour Duro "DJ" (drop-outs snapped, ouch!) these Duro's have a whopping A2C of 20"/508mm and i'm not finding any 1-1/8" 26" forks close to that number, which leads to my question:

    questions
    -Is it a good or bad idea to use a 27.5" fork even if the A2C is about right for this frame?
    -Know of a sub-$300 sus. fork that will work?
    -Anyone think 100mm is too short for this frame's geo? (i have a 100mm RS Tora i could cannibalize from another bike)
    Last edited by CabezaShok; 05-25-2017 at 02:14 PM. Reason: my post was too long

  2. #2
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    The Komodo actually sold with various travel forks. The lower line ones often had 120mm, but my gen-3 same as yours (2005-2006) komodo sold with a 120-150mm RTWD adjustable fork.

    As long as you're not solely dirt jumping, the 150mm height feels better everywhere on this frame. It's relaxed and just cruises singletrack with flow.

    My fork is a Sektor Dual Position Coil. I got it from Bikewagon via eBay for $3xx.00. The coil suspension is the beezneez IMO. I've had the Sektor air, and I can definitely feel the O-ring stiction in the air cartridge. (I'm really picky)

    The real beauty is that the Sektor DPC has a lever on the left that you flip, compress the fork, and it drops it 30mm to 120mm. You can run it at 120mm all the time if you want, but as soon as you start cruising along and pop it back up to 150mm, you'll leave it there. I love it. The right leg has an adjustable compression to lockout lever that I will use when I'm doing extended climbing. Set up at 150mm, it's exactly where the factory fork was intended to ride.

    This Sektor DPC is smoother than anything I've ever ridden. (including other brands...Fox, Manitou, Marz)

    Niagara cycles has one:

    https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...YYGxoCTgTw_wcB

  3. #3
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    Also...in 2005, my frame was offered in S, M, L. No XL. My inseam is right on the edge of L and XL frames. This frame was intended as the "Out of Bounds" freeride hardtail, so the size Large actually only has an 18.5" seat tube. I've struggled over the years with it being just on the edge of being my size. The ETT is nice and roomy. When I drop the saddle and descend, it's a beautiful thing.

    Since my inseam is a bit long, I started studying up on 180mm cranksets and finally pulled the trigger on one this spring. This bike has never felt so perfect for me. I've always ran a somewhat tall stack height, so I run about an inch of spacer and a 60mm x6 degree stem with a 50mm rise Answer ProTaper AM 720 bar.

    Looking back to when I first built it into a trail-shredder, I'm surprised I liked it as much as I did back then because I was rolling a 40mm bar with super low stack stem, etc.

  4. #4
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    thanks Chelboed , im stoked you've shared all your different forks/component tests with this frame, it'll be really helpful for my build and others i'm sure..this bike seems to be one of those tough all-arounder HT bikes with a cult following, like the 2nd gen Specialized P1/P2/P3. I have now decided to go with the Sektor, i was ready to go with an older used Sherman but you've convinced me.
    It took me a while to figure out the size of my frame but i'm 98% sure its a 16.5/medium and that is my magic XC size so i was a little worried might be too big but standover should be similar to my XC and my SS jumper/urban beater.... for TT measurement Jamis states "center of BB to TOP of TT" which threw me off, do they mean top of Top Tube or top of seat clamp? BB to top of seatclamp on mine is 16.5, my frame looks to big to be a 14/15.5" ...the 'triangulation' looks too similar to your 18.5" ill post a pic soon.

  5. #5
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    If you look at the 2005 Komodo sizes, there are 2x columns. "Size" is the seat tube length from the center of the BB to the top of the seatpost clamp. My LG=18.5"

    The center of BB to top tube is pretty irrelevant. It's from the BB to the horizontal top tube. My large is 16.26.

    If you look at the geometry of the bikes of the day, you'll notice that the Komodo had a longer top tube than it's brethren. This bike being a freeride hardtail, the longer top tube promotes a shorter stem which increases control over gnarly train. Short stem = better control. Throwing a short stem on a typical hardtail of the era would be uncomfortably cramped due to the shorter top tubes back then.

    Bikes now days have really long top tubes and short stems. Jamis had always been a forward thinker. They were totally invested in 650b way before other brands. They have been making excellent steel hardtail frames forever and will always offer a good one.

    If you look at the first gen On One 456 Evo, it was supposed to be the big future of the "Evo"lution of bike Geo. Heck... The Komodo had already been doing that Geo for several years prior.

    So basically, my 18.5" Large has a longer reach and taller stack than an 18.5" bike. It's basically a 19-19.5" bike with a slightly shorter seat tube for clearance to be able to drop that saddle and do some freeride drops.


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