10mm ta rear on a parker- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    10mm ta rear on a parker

    anybody done this? im thinking about it but not really sure if it would be a signifigant upgrade or not.

  2. #2
    the test dummy
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    it would probably work but whats with you random hate for qr wheels?
    Quote Originally Posted by craftworks750
    Riding a mtb is like a reset button, 10 mins in and there is nothing else in the world that matters.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by insanitylevel9
    it would probably work but whats with you random hate for qr wheels?
    hahaha nothing really just that ive been riding alot more rocky/ tech trails and feel like my bike would be so much better without the wishy-washy wheel tracking.

  4. #4
    the test dummy
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    aha if you do it tell me how you like it and if it makes that big of a difference. also you could always ask at a lbs they would know
    Quote Originally Posted by craftworks750
    Riding a mtb is like a reset button, 10 mins in and there is nothing else in the world that matters.
    my bikes
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    Ben

  5. #5
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    so far ive just done a 9mm thru on my front wheel. it makes a big difference. just think about it, your going from a small thin rod a 1st grader could bend to a 9mm thick steel shaft no one is gonna be able to bend. and i know i can do a 10mm on the rear im just wondering if its as noticable as on the front. its only like $20 to convert so i may as well give it a shot, right?

  6. #6
    the test dummy
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    how hard was it to convert the front
    Quote Originally Posted by craftworks750
    Riding a mtb is like a reset button, 10 mins in and there is nothing else in the world that matters.
    my bikes
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    Ben

  7. #7
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    if you can use a wrench you can do it. just take off the locking nuts from either side ( be mindful of the bearings, dont pour them out) slide out the old axle, slide in a longer solid axle, redo the lock nuts get the new axle pretty much centered and your good to go. i got a wheels mfg 9x1x155mm one, works good.

  8. #8
    the test dummy
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    sounds easy enough thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by craftworks750
    Riding a mtb is like a reset button, 10 mins in and there is nothing else in the world that matters.
    my bikes
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    Ben

  9. #9
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    I'm running Transition Revolution 32's on front and rear. The front is a 20mm ta and the rear is a 10mm ta. The bike was built up like this from the begginning so I don't know how much of a difference the ta on the rear actually makes as compared to a quick release but I can tell you that tis is by far the most solid bike I have ever ridden.

  10. #10
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    I should also mention, Transition's ta is a quick release and runs on standard dropouts but is rock solid. See pic.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 10mm ta rear on a parker-green_wheels_main.jpg  


  11. #11
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    yeah, i wish i could run the dt swiss rws skewers but for that i would need new wheels so this is the next best thing. i'll give the 10mm thru a shot this summer, what do i have to lose $20?

  12. #12
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    Hey b-kul - you end up putting that 10mm on the Parker?
    I have the same feeling about my 08 Dakar XAM 2.0. It's got a lot of lateral movement, and the shock seems to be taking most of the force from the movement. Worried about bushings and bearings now too.
    I just bought a new Syncros Factory rear hub w/10mm TA. Gonna mount it up next week when the hub comes in. Hopefully the TA will reduce the "wishy-washy wheel tracking."
    I'd like to be able to get the new style rear-triangle and retro-fit it. But, doubtful. The rears on these bikes are just so loose. It seems like every year Jamis says "Our new MP3 design with added lateral stiffness," but the designs appear to stay the same. The rear triangles need a lateral brace of some sort. The angles seem too acute, long, and open to manage the lateral torsion.

  13. #13
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    its a summer project for me but the 9mm thru out front helped alot. i have a feeling the 10mm thru will improve the rear signifigantly, especailly with the jamis design.

  14. #14
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    Alright. Thanks for the heads up. I get my new hub next week, so I'll get it set up and hopefully I'll be able to ride it next week/weekend and post a report for you. I don't know how thoroughly I'll be able to ring it out, but it'll be some sort of reference point for you. I just hope all this rain stops. It's devastating our trails in NH and MASS.
    Agreed on the TA up front. It's a must have. I have a FOX 36, and will never go back to QR for the front. Like you, that's part of what got me thinking about the TA for the rear.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    its a summer project for me but the 9mm thru out front helped alot. i have a feeling the 10mm thru will improve the rear signifigantly, especailly with the jamis design.
    So, B-Kul - I just got my wheel built up with the Syncros Factory DH/FR hub with a 10mm thru axle, and slapped it on the XAM 2.0 last night. It definitely stiffens the rear end. I'm sure in part due to a burly hub, but also the thru axle. However, there is still a lot of stress being forced on the shock.

    I have no doubt this rear triangle will crack. I hope I'm close to the car and an ER. I'll post from waiting room of the ER.

  16. #16
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    ahaha yeah it seems no matter what jamis does their rear triangles are always a weak point.

  17. #17
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    I have noticed though, that the MP3 design cannot deliver a stiff rear, regardless of the application. And, Jamis makes little effort to stiffen the rear triangle with bridges. Other pivot designs, VPP for example, are better for stiffness, but bring of other issues into the mix. The MP3, compared to a Kona 4 Bar, works well for me in most situations. I prefer it for climbing, and even descending; however, there are intrinsic weaknesses of the MP3 - namely the lateral stress on the shock, linkage, and rear triangle.
    In my opinion, the biggest issue facing Jamis now is weak welds and poor metal on the rear triangles. The rear dropouts are not well designed and built - how many rears have snapped on a variety of different models? It needs a brace and more meat to support the stresses on the back corner of the triangle.
    Bottom line is, now that Jamis costs as much as other comparable bikes, its marketing edge has been compromised, and the severe fundamental weaknesses will cost them, dearly. Especially with bikes like Yeti, Santa Cruz, and even Specialized releasing better built bikes with comparable parts specs to top tier Jamis bikes.

  18. #18
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    exactly. i really like how the mp3 suspension feels so im kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place.

  19. #19
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    i love my XAM, but honestly i bought it because i got a smokin deal, and the factory build was absolutly top of the line. if the frame breaks ill be swapping the parts over to a titus EG frame for sure. few of my friends have them and its really the most balanced awesome bike ive ever ridden.

    jim...do you know if there is a 10mm conversion for the syncros hub? or is it a whole different hub?

  20. #20
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    Well, yes and no. I think there is for the FR/DH, but not the FL. You'd have to contact Syncros. Marshall Cant, the brand manager is pretty cool. They have a strict policy on using local shops, ra ra ra, so you might hit a wall there.

    But, here's the rub: the Syncros hub on your XAM is probably the FL - I shredded my stock within a couple weeks, and have tried every possible way of getting replacement parts -it's not a FR/DH hub. It's OE for Jamis by Syncros. But, it feels really nice.
    So, instead of dickin' around anymore, I bought the FR/DH Factory hub on PricePoint. It was $80, and I had a beefy rim, and loved the way that Syncros spins and connects. Thus why I went back to Syncros - oh, and it was $80, not $200+.

    I hear ya on riding it until it breaks. Great whip for what it is, and the parts spec is unreal. But, rear triangle strength and lateral stiffness leave much to be desired.

  21. #21
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    website says the 09s are spec'ed with the FR hub but i think you are right. they look more like the FLs. again....XC wheels on a bike this burly makes no sense to me. i was planning on building something nice soon. probably a hadly(R) hope(F) mavic setup. i usually run my outlaws anyway.

  22. #22
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    Wheels were the biggest draw back, but for the price of the overall bike, I completely overlooked the wheels.
    Your setup you mentioned would be nice.
    As I mentioned, I put that Syncros Factory FR/DH hub on there with the 10mm TA laced to a WTB SpeedDisc XL and WTB 14g spokes and DT Nips. Gonna run it tonight for the first time on dirt.
    I'll let you know how the wheel/chainstay combo holds up for me.

  23. #23
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    So, anyone interested in knowing the difference in running the 10mm TA on the XAM 2.0 - which I suspect is the same as the XAM 1.0 and very similar to the Parker series - it's awesome.
    First off, the Syncros Factory hub is great. Coming off a Shimano Deore, most things are great, but this hub really is smooth. The additional POE makes climbing and maneuvering through techy stuff much easier. I noticed a dramatic improvement in my ability to work the bike.
    Secondly, the 10mm TA is a much needed improvement over the QR on this bike. It's not like a whole new bike, but I certainly can tell the difference in stiffness and responsiveness coming from the rear wheel.
    I did notice on my friends' Titus and Yeti - single pivots also - that there is a brace on the seat stay, just behind the seat tube. Now I'm thinking that could be another project, and add some relief to the rest of the suspension. Or, I could just live with it, and buy an ASR-7 unless Jamis comes up with something beefier.

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