Steer tube cap torque.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Steer tube cap torque.

    Doing some maintenance on my Primer Pro, I just got my E13 carbon wheels with DTSwiss hubs and was checking the bike over.

    I literally just got a creek in my headset in minutes, I thought my cable was starting to rattle and made a note to get new cable guides and every minute after it got more pronounced until u pin pointed my headset.

    What is the torque for the steer tube cap as that is probably the most important. It didnt see it it my manual.


    Also is there a common bearing that goes in the rear? My rear triangle has about 1mm of play, it's not to top link. I took my top link off to check because if it were that one I would of ordered a 140mm link and make my bike 140/140. Might as well make an upgrade If I gotta spend money.

    Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam74 View Post
    Doing some maintenance on my Primer Pro, I just got my E13 carbon wheels with DTSwiss hubs and was checking the bike over.

    I literally just got a creek in my headset in minutes, I thought my cable was starting to rattle and made a note to get new cable guides and every minute after it got more pronounced until u pin pointed my headset.

    What is the torque for the steer tube cap as that is probably the most important. It didnt see it it my manual.


    Also is there a common bearing that goes in the rear? My rear triangle has about 1mm of play, it's not to top link. I took my top link off to check because if it were that one I would of ordered a 140mm link and make my bike 140/140. Might as well make an upgrade If I gotta spend money.

    Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
    I usually use 2-3 NM, then see how it feels.

  3. #3
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    Torque is typically based on "bearing preload feel".
    If the steering is stiff and/or feels like it is binding it's too tight. Handlebars should be smoothly as you rotate them.

    Too loose and the headset will um..... feel loose.

    Wrap your hand around the headset -hold the front brake - rock the bike back and forth. Feel play, loosen the stem bolts and give the cap bolt a tiny twist. It won't take much.

    Same goes for if it feels tight, back it off. There isn't really a way to measure how much more or less to tighten/loosen the cap screw as it's so minor.

    Good luck.

  4. #4
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    The cap on the very top? That's just for preloading the bearings before you tighten the bolts on the stem; it's not a torque wrench thing. If your headset is loose, you need to loosen the stem and then preload with the cap. Once there is no slop but the fork still rotates freely, tighten the screws on the stem (these should use a torque wrench).
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  5. #5
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    I was thinking there may be a torque, in the cane creek instructions and it bassically said tight enough to not have play.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam74 View Post
    I was thinking there may be a torque, in the cane creek instructions and it bassically said tight enough to not have play.

    Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
    Yes. All the other posts below are basically correct. I was suggesting 2-3NM, because that will get you in the ball park. Also, Niner used to recommend that torque for their rigid, carbon forks.

  7. #7
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    I guess the end goal should be -learn how to tighten it to preload the bearings properly. If you are unsure how to set bearing preload (on any bearing), do you best then take it to your local shop an ask if they think it feels correct to them? By feel, they should be able to say -this is sloppy or it's too tight.

  8. #8
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    Itís whatever the headset manufacturers says it should be. The CK inset headset I recently installed called for 4-10 in/lbs, but then also stated 15 in/lbs maximum.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    Itís whatever the headset manufacturers says it should be. The CK inset headset I recently installed called for 4-10 in/lbs, but then also stated 15 in/lbs maximum.
    More or less I was expecting a general torque and also a maximum or a minimum.

    I've always just tightened until there was no movement and headset still turned freely. From looking in 2 instructions manuals this seems to be a correct method.

    Now I just got to figure out the play in the lower link.

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam74 View Post
    Doing some maintenance on my Primer Pro, I just got my E13 carbon wheels with DTSwiss hubs and was checking the bike over.

    I literally just got a creek in my headset in minutes, I thought my cable was starting to rattle and made a note to get new cable guides and every minute after it got more pronounced until u pin pointed my headset.

    What is the torque for the steer tube cap as that is probably the most important. It didnt see it it my manual.


    Also is there a common bearing that goes in the rear? My rear triangle has about 1mm of play, it's not to top link. I took my top link off to check because if it were that one I would of ordered a 140mm link and make my bike 140/140. Might as well make an upgrade If I gotta spend money.

    Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
    I'm not sure on the exact torque spec of the steer tube cap but I've never gone more than 5nm. On the rear triangle check the lower link if you feel play. Take silver bolt and collet off and then tighten the 8mm axle. Every 600 miles or so I would start to feel play and every time it was the lower link axle about half a turn loose.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    I'm not sure on the exact torque spec of the steer tube cap but I've never gone more than 5nm. On the rear triangle check the lower link if you feel play. Take silver bolt and collet off and then tighten the 8mm axle. Every 600 miles or so I would start to feel play and every time it was the lower link axle about half a turn loose.
    Wish I could get every 600 miles on mine, only about 200 on my bike in total. My upper link bearings were very stiff, I'll take apart the lower link and give it a go. My Uzzi hasn't be abused but it has been used as intended and all the linkage is perfect. And the bike is 3.5 years old.

    Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    2-3 nm.

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