M1 Shock Position- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Freeriding Feline
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    M1 Shock Position

    Hi:
    I bought a 2000/2001 M1 from a female who was 5'3", and was wondering if the shock set up is okay for me, I'm 5'7". I should have it back from the LBS (needed brakes) this weekend so I can try it out.
    Also, keep the 24 rear wheel or not?
    Thanks!
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  2. #2
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    The Main frame is not from 2000/2001, but max 1999, before they designed th newer model. Rear looks newer.

    I don't like 24" wheels for DH so I would swap it.

    If you like the angles of the bike, keep the shock like this, if not, play arround with the settings

  3. #3
    RaD
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead!

    That is definatly an pre 2000 frame.The material of the mainframe was much thinner and the frame lighter.Check the welds around the steerertube and where the swingarm bolts the bottombracket area,that is where my frame cracked.The rear end seems to be from a newer model M1 as the headbadge and the sticker kit.Interessting mixture.I used to have an `98 M1 and found that the shock worked best for me in the second bolt hole from top of the frame with the swinglink to frame attachement in middle position.The head angle can be adjusted by changing the shocks position in the swinglink.
    Also I always had the shock mounted with the piggyback to the rearwheel and the swinglink is mounted exactly in the other way(flipped rear to front).
    The short part with the brace belongs to the frame side,at least at my frame it was that way.
    Ditch that 24" rim,this bike was designed to handle best with 26ers.



    Later
    RaD
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    Last edited by RaD; 05-28-2005 at 08:18 AM.

  4. #4
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    Thanks

    Really? Pre-2000? I still think it's hot. It's not done yet but here's another pic. Getting there...Still need to swap the handlebars/grips and I'll probably play with the shock position like you said. It's my first race bike.
    Thanks guys!

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  5. #5
    RaD
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    Of course it is hot,it is an M1!
    Have fun with it,these things are fast.

    Later
    RaD

  6. #6
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    push those stanchions through the crowns, if you bottom it now the tire wil hit the lower crown and send you flying.
    there should be atleast 178mm between the top of the tire and the lower crown

  7. #7
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    Frame Year

    It's a 1998. Intense sent me an e-mail back.
    The rear is newer though. 2001.
    I guess it'll still be good. First race bike and all.
    "If you give up your dream, you die."
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  8. #8
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    Update

    Hi:

    LOVE this bike...I'm taking it to Creek again tomorrow. I want to push the fork down but I was advised to take it to my LBS to do it...Do you think I can handle that adjustment myself?
    And I love the 24 rear wheel. I think it's gonna stay!

    Later!
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  9. #9
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    just unscrew the bolts on your crowns (except the one near the steerer), push them down and then tighten the bolts

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