Lower link is not rotating smoothly- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Lower link is not rotating smoothly

    I just finished doing a yearly checkup of my Recluse and I noticed that the lower link is not rotating smoothly on both axles (tested with upper link disconnected). It isn't stuck or sticky like, i.e. a clutch derailler, but it's clearly less smooth than it should be.

    This happened even after a thorough clean/inspection/rebuild of the link with fresh new bearings. All bolts are tighten at the right torque, but I'm starting to thin that for my frame and components (different tolerances?) may be the reason.

    Should I try something like 10-20% less torque on the bolts?

  2. #2
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    Did you try backing off the torque to see if it would free up and still not have play? That would be my best advice, as all you want is everything installed with no play and tight enough to not work loose.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Did you try backing off the torque to see if it would free up and still not have play? That would be my best advice, as all you want is everything installed with no play and tight enough to not work loose.
    The idea is to try this ASAP. I'm just a little concerned in using a lower torque.

  4. #4
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    Haven't messed with the Intense linkage in quite a while, but have one here to do a service on, so will see just how it is and remind myself, but AFAIR it's collets and I recall SC used to recommend just making them snug enough to take out the play, never an actual torque value.

    Quote Originally Posted by meeerkat View Post
    The idea is to try this ASAP. I'm just a little concerned in using a lower torque.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  5. #5
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    i run the link axles just past snug. its well under specified torque, but it's the only way to get them to rotate smoothly.

    i ditched the shitty enduro bearings and run Japanese radials (NSK, etc.).

  6. #6
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    Well, I just found this out for myself when I puled my friends bike down and found that the perfectly torqued to spec setup had completely eaten ohne of the bearings and felt like crap. Luckily had a spare bearings, removed, cleaned and repacked the rest with fresh grease and reassembled just tight enough to be snug and remove any play, then made sure to torque the collette bolt properly. The difference was so much we ended up having to add well over 30 PSI of air to get just over 30% sag

    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    i run the link axles just past snug. its well under specified torque, but it's the only way to get them to rotate smoothly.

    i ditched the shitty enduro bearings and run Japanese radials (NSK, etc.).
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  7. #7
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    I've struggled with these bearings - curious "Japanese radials" ... care to elaborate? I've had the bearings disintegrate leaving just the outer race stuck in the link ... %!@#$! to get out. Seems like there is enough play that the bearings can't take the side loads. ( that's my total uninformed opinion )
    I thought those Enduro bearings were supposed to be good! ( the "max" ones ... right? )

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    I've struggled with these bearings - curious "Japanese radials" ... care to elaborate? I've had the bearings disintegrate leaving just the outer race stuck in the link ... %!@#$! to get out. Seems like there is enough play that the bearings can't take the side loads. ( that's my total uninformed opinion )
    I thought those Enduro bearings were supposed to be good! ( the "max" ones ... right? )
    i'm not an expert to be honest. enduro max angular contact should be great in theory, i just haven't had any luck with them.

    japanese radial contact (conventional) bearings are arguably built with better materials to tighter tolerances. phil wood sells repackaged japanese bearings and you can get them direct. gotta be careful with some on ebay though, some are counterfeit.

    https://www.philwood.com/products/bearinghome.php

    NSK
    KSK
    etc.

    https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/maker...0/M0802010000/

  9. #9
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    Cool thanks - I was googling but wasn't coming up with much for consumers. Alibaba not withstanding...

    huh. bummer. for the old spider 29 need 7902s, Phil doesn't seem to carry those.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    Cool thanks - I was googling but wasn't coming up with much for consumers. Alibaba not withstanding...

    huh. bummer. for the old spider 29 need 7902s, Phil doesn't seem to carry those.
    anytime.

    7902 is just angular contact version of 6902. should be same dimensions.

    7902 = AC
    6902 = Radial Contact.

    some engineer will come in here and flame me for suggesting to replace angular contact with radial contact - but they work.

    - i will add - its important to check links for tightness often. if they are TOO loose, it will prematurely wear out bearings.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/b...on-988011.html

  11. #11
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    No engineer, but yes, bad idea as the Intense linkages have no spacer between the bearings to keep you from tightening them too tight and breaking them, while it may work with regular bearings, angular are definitely the best solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    some engineer will come in here and flame me for suggesting to replace angular contact with radial contact - but they work.

    - i will add - its important to check links for tightness often. if they are TOO loose, it will prematurely wear out bearings.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  12. #12
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    just dont over tighten them; you do have to check them more often.

    i would argue they would last longer under these conditions than AC in high-load areas. could be wrong tho.

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