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  1. #2401
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    I haven't had that problem exactly, but so far my only issues with my Sniper have been bolt related.

    Lost a seat clamp bolt the first ride
    Linkage bolt was cross threaded (from factory) on the rear triangle
    Stripped the Trunnion mount bolt (doing what you were doing, normal maintenance with torque wrench)

    The bolt action on the Sniper seems weak

  2. #2402
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    Let me start with, I love this bike. Lightweight, capable, pedals and descends great. I also have had troubles with bolts/linkage. The bolts are only available in packs so you can't just get the bolt you need. You have to get the $50 pack. Never had these types of issues with any other bike. Only other issue is that the headset develops creaks frequently requiring service often. All of that said I don't regret my decision. If it were stolen or anything like that I would buy it again.

  3. #2403
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooter_b3 View Post
    Let me start with, I love this bike. Lightweight, capable, pedals and descends great. I also have had troubles with bolts/linkage. The bolts are only available in packs so you can't just get the bolt you need. You have to get the $50 pack. Never had these types of issues with any other bike. Only other issue is that the headset develops creaks frequently requiring service often. All of that said I don't regret my decision. If it were stolen or anything like that I would buy it again.
    Agree with everything you said (minus the headset, knock on wood). I even called Intense and asked if I could get two trunnion bolts and they said they could only sell me the entire linkage pack for $50. I have one stripped bolt. It's not worth $50.

  4. #2404
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So... after almost 3 months on my Sniper T Expert, I thought I'd give the bike a run-thru to make sure every nut and bolt was tight. I payed special attention to the suspension, since there's some side-to-side play in my rear wheel and I wanted to make sue this wasn't caused by the suspension (as happened to me on a different bike).

    In any case, I managed to completely break the torx bolt that holds the cross-brace link in place (see pics below). I believe it's a titanium bolt? I was using the Intense-supplied torque wrench, so this was not an issue of applying too much force. Nothing like this has ever happened to me before...

    Has this sort of thing happened to anyone else? Any ideas why this happened? Are Ti bolts weaker than the regular kind? Is this a titanium bolt? And most importantly: is this fixable, i.e., will my LBS be able to remove the broken bolt?

    Thanks

    Attachment 1336919

    Attachment 1336917
    What torque setting were you tightening to? I believe it's supposed to be just 4nm.

    I screwed up the first time and started to tighten to the 16nm shown on the other bolt it feeds into.

  5. #2405
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    Are you serious?! If it is 4Nm, and not 16Nm as you see in the picture, this seems like an almost deliberate mislead on the part of Intense!

    So to answer your question: yes, I was tightening to 16 Nm... didn't even cross my mind that could be wrong.

  6. #2406
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    The black piece with 16nm on it is another bolt. I believe it's what's actually securing the cross brace. The torx is there to keep it from backing out maybe?

    Check the user manual for more detail. It shows the torque for the torx there.

    It almost got me too, but caught myself before tightening too much.

  7. #2407
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    Ok, I guess I f#cked up then. Seriously, didn't cross my mind that the torque rating stated literally right there, might refer to a different bolt.

    ANYWAYS... do you think this is fixable? Will my LBS be able to remove the bolt?

    Cheers

  8. #2408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So... after almost 3 months on my Sniper T Expert, I thought I'd give the bike a run-thru to make sure every nut and bolt was tight. I payed special attention to the suspension, since there's some side-to-side play in my rear wheel and I wanted to make sue this wasn't caused by the suspension (as happened to me on a different bike).

    In any case, I managed to completely break the torx bolt that holds the cross-brace link in place (see pics below). I believe it's a titanium bolt? I was using the Intense-supplied torque wrench, so this was not an issue of applying too much force. Nothing like this has ever happened to me before...

    Has this sort of thing happened to anyone else? Any ideas why this happened? Are Ti bolts weaker than the regular kind? Is this a titanium bolt? And most importantly: is this fixable, i.e., will my LBS be able to remove the broken bolt?

    Thanks
    Overtorque aside looks like there is not a lot of meat at the shoulder where it meets with the torx relief...looks like a smaller size torx should've been spec'd to help avoid situations like that. Should be relatively easy to remove by LBS.

  9. #2409
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    Hey guys,

    Been riding my Sniper XC for about a year now, I do primarily XC style riding, and am about to jump into XC racing (already race CX and Road). Ive been running the bike with a RS Pike set at 100mm. While i love the pike, the weight (1950g) hurts to swallow, so I am going to be moving towards a more XC oriented fork. I am looking at the RS Sid WC.

    The pike i have is a 51mm offset, and the Sniper recommends a 44mm. Has anyone tried both? Or can anyone shed some light on the differences I'll notice (if any) with the 44mm vs 51mm offset?

  10. #2410
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Ole, why did you send it in to Fox or somewhere else? Is it worth it to have someone like Avalanche custom tune it? Basically doubles the price I paid for it.

    Thanks
    I sent it to Fox here in Norway. I supplied the Tune ID for the original Sniper Trail shock, and they then re-built the DPX2 to match that tune as closely as possible. I took it out on the first ride yesterday, a epic technical 5 hour ride, and it was perfect from get go. 200psi for my 180lb weight gave me around 35% sag, ran 2 clicks from open low speed comp, and 6 clicks from closed rebound. Didn't have to touch it after that, and even long technical descents left it feeling controlled. The bike is in race trim at 21.8lbs with dropper post, 2.6" tires and 34sc, and it did not ever feel like a lightweight sketchy xc bike. I plowed into rock gardens and deep roots with little concern for the bike. Ok, so my 1180g wheels made me tip-toe a little bit over large sharp rocks, but the Tubolight insert in the rear prevented any strikes. Super happy!

  11. #2411
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole View Post
    Attachment 1305851

    2019 Sniper T, same front as 2020. Running a 125mm Reverb in that picture, and 80cm from center BB to top of saddle.
    Hi Ole,

    Would you mind sharing how the large fits with your height, I'm 5'9 on the dot and between sizes.
    Also looking to build up the sniper xc similarly to you, whats the weight of your bike,
    And are you running 2.4 sabers? how do they ride. thanks!

  12. #2412
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeskybiker7 View Post
    Hi Ole,

    Would you mind sharing how the large fits with your height, I'm 5'9 on the dot and between sizes.
    Also looking to build up the sniper xc similarly to you, whats the weight of your bike,
    And are you running 2.4 sabers? how do they ride. thanks!
    I am 189cm, or 6'2. I have always ran my Intenses in Large, way back from the first Tracer in '99. The Large Sniper fits me well with a 50mm stem, wouldn't want it any longer for the generally chunky terrain where I live. If I rode mainly faster more open trails, I might go longer. I also have a Large Primer 2020 with 35mm stem that fits med perfectly.

    I alternate between the Kenda Sabre 2.6 and Ikon 2.6. I find that the Sabre roll better and corner better, but the Ikon feel more robust. I run a Tubolight in the rear.

    Current weight with the DPX2 rear shock is 9.80kg/21.6lbs with pedals. Pretty good for a bike that can be ridden hard in the chunk, with a shock that doesn't fade.

  13. #2413
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    I can't pin it down on any one quality of the bike, but my Sniper is the fastest bike I've ever ridden. I don't use Strava that often, but I've knocked out a few PRs and KOMs on mine this year. Climbing, descending and net-zero loops.

    In terms of a bike that can go up AND down at breakneck speeds, in a wide variety of terrain, the Sniper is unmatched.
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  14. #2414
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I can't pin it down on any one quality of the bike, but my Sniper is the fastest bike I've ever ridden. I don't use Strava that often, but I've knocked out a few PRs and KOMs on mine this year. Climbing, descending and net-zero loops.

    In terms of a bike that can go up AND down at breakneck speeds, in a wide variety of terrain, the Sniper is unmatched.
    Agreed. It's been a couple months with the Sniper and I'm very happy. There's been one OMG moment on a steep descent with a drop in the middle when I'm sure the slack head tube angle and long top tube saved my bacon, and for the natural Appalachian trails I like (twisty, often rocky and rooty, lots of rolling ups and downs) it's ideal. Enough travel to deal with natural features, light enough for steep climbs, and really composed through fast twists and turns. I've cleanly ridden some rocky stuff I never tried on my BMC and in fact had decided were not (by me) rideable.

    I did cut the handlebar down as I got tired of literally hitting trees. We have some very narrow bits here. Never added a token to the fork, as I'm getting the travel and responsiveness I wanted already. The e thirteen wheels are very light, though I was surprised that I had to move the set screws going from the stock wheels to the carbon ones: the cassette sits a little farther in on the carbons.

    Very fun bike, and so incredibly fast in the woods.

  15. #2415
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    I'm currently nursing a cracked carbon rear wheel until I get my new We Are One rims. Should be arriving any day now. I've been doing gravel rides or riding inside for the last week and a half. After that, I'll be building them up and will have two complete sets of wheels for my Sniper.

    Been pretty rough having to see everyone's big early summer rides while I slog away watching YouTube videos.
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  16. #2416
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    Looking for advice on sizing a Sniper T. I'm 5'10" with short 30" inseam. I'm worried the Large won't work with a 150mm dropper. My longer torso and arms really like the geo of the large. Anybody with 30" inseam on a large?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Looking for advice on sizing a Sniper T. I'm 5'10" with short 30" inseam. I'm worried the Large won't work with a 150mm dropper. My longer torso and arms really like the geo of the large. Anybody with 30" inseam on a large?
    I am 5'8" with a 31" inseam. I am on a medium with maxed out 125mm dropper, really wish I had a 150mm dropper. I have sat and rode around on a large with the 150mm and it was not slammed to the collar and leg room felt good, it was just a hair too long of reach for me. If you get a Large and really want a 125mm dropper I'll trade you!

  18. #2418
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    I am 5'8" with a 31" inseam. I am on a medium with maxed out 125mm dropper, really wish I had a 150mm dropper. I have sat and rode around on a large with the 150mm and it was not slammed to the collar and leg room felt good, it was just a hair too long of reach for me. If you get a Large and really want a 125mm dropper I'll trade you!
    Thanks. I may take you up on that swap...will hopefully know in a few weeks.

  19. #2419
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Looking for advice on sizing a Sniper T. I'm 5'10" with short 30" inseam. I'm worried the Large won't work with a 150mm dropper. My longer torso and arms really like the geo of the large. Anybody with 30" inseam on a large?
    I'm 5'9" with a 31" inseam. Was also between a medium and large. In the end glad I went with the large. I will add a little anecdote here. My stock Lev 150 fit me perfectly. I had the post inserted all but about a mm and the height was perfect. The Lev crapped out on me and I replaced it with a 9point8 Fall Line R. Excuse me for not knowing all of the terminology but this post rides a little taller than the Lev and is maybe a hair longer than ideal when fully inserted. I know some other droppers have adjustable shims to adjust drop. Might be worth it for you.

  20. #2420
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Looking for advice on sizing a Sniper T. I'm 5'10" with short 30" inseam. I'm worried the Large won't work with a 150mm dropper. My longer torso and arms really like the geo of the large. Anybody with 30" inseam on a large?
    Iím a hair under 5í6Ē, 31.5Ē inseam. Medium fits me perfectly. No way a guy of your proportions should be on a Medium, regardless of dropper fit.


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  21. #2421
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    Thanks everyone for the advice on sizing. I'll try to negotiate a 125mm dropper on the large. Getting amped for the new whip!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Thanks everyone for the advice on sizing. I'll try to negotiate a 125mm dropper on the large. Getting amped for the new whip!
    Some have mentioned previously but try the Oneup Dropper V2. I think it has the lowest stack height and can be shimmed down. Pretty reasonably priced too.

  23. #2423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nugz View Post
    Some have mentioned previously but try the Oneup Dropper V2. I think it has the lowest stack height and can be shimmed down. Pretty reasonably priced too.
    yes. good suggestion. but sucks to toss good parts on a new bike. all droppers should be adjustable imo

    would like to get this bike for my daughter who is 5í8Ē and still growing. large. but we havent even seen one due to covid.

  24. #2424
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuse6F View Post
    all droppers should be adjustable imo

    All cars should have had ABS and fuel injection in the 30s.
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    I am on a 2019 SniperXC Expert Build with the brace installed and e13 XCX wheels. I love the bike. It is good handling, light, and suspension seems really well balanced. I can't really say enough good about it.

    I am however having issues with a popping or "creaking" noise, for lack of a better term, when I am out of saddle and powering up any of our short, steep, climbs here in SW Ohio.

    I went over all the pivot points with the included torque wrench and it may have helped some but I am still getting it.

    Any ideas what I could be experiencing?

  26. #2426
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpelaston View Post
    I am on a 2019 SniperXC Expert Build with the brace installed and e13 XCX wheels. I love the bike. It is good handling, light, and suspension seems really well balanced. I can't really say enough good about it.

    I am however having issues with a popping or "creaking" noise, for lack of a better term, when I am out of saddle and powering up any of our short, steep, climbs here in SW Ohio.

    I went over all the pivot points with the included torque wrench and it may have helped some but I am still getting it.

    Any ideas what I could be experiencing?
    It's a long list:

    RD clutch
    freehub-cassette interface
    saddle rails
    pedals
    cranks
    RD-Hanger interface
    thru axle(s)
    bar-stem interface
    fork steerer-crown interface

    I've had annoying creaks in the past, on several bikes, and they've rarely been the actual frame itself.
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  27. #2427
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpelaston View Post
    I am on a 2019 SniperXC Expert Build with the brace installed and e13 XCX wheels. I love the bike. It is good handling, light, and suspension seems really well balanced. I can't really say enough good about it.

    I am however having issues with a popping or "creaking" noise, for lack of a better term, when I am out of saddle and powering up any of our short, steep, climbs here in SW Ohio.

    I went over all the pivot points with the included torque wrench and it may have helped some but I am still getting it.

    Any ideas what I could be experiencing?
    Since it is only happening out of the saddle we can rule out saddle rails (this is actually really common and annoying).

    As mentioned by Le Duke the list can be long.

    If you're out of the saddle you're probably up putting more pressure on the cockpit, check your headset and grease the bearings. Make sure your steer tube doesn't have any play in the headset. You may need to re-tighten the stem cap, make sure the stem cap is not bottoming out on the steer tube.

    Next I would pull the cranks and check the BB bearings, clean out old grease and add some new, same as the crank spindle.

    Last, and this is probably not it but good to do if you haven't recently, remove the lower link bolt for the rear triangle. remove the expander cone, then with an 8mm remove the link bolt. Clean it, give it a light greasing, and reinstall to torque.

  28. #2428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    It's a long list:

    RD clutch - Possibly but it is a new XT8100 with less than 100 miles on it so I am not sure this is it.
    freehub-cassette interface - I will for sure check this. Like the derailleur though, it is a new XT8100 cassette and was greased when installed
    saddle rails - I have rules this out as it only happens when I am out of the saddle and really putting power down on a hard climb
    pedals - Definitely not the pedals. They are older XT's but I recently cleaned, lubed and serviced them when I purchased the bike
    cranks - I wonder about this one. This is my first bike with pressed in BB and have thought about this a couple times. It doesn't sound or feel like its coming through there but the sounds may be traveling through the frame
    RD-Hanger interface - Possibly. Any way to check for this or any method to prevent this besides my putting a small bit of grease on the mech threads when I installed it?
    thru axle(s) - I wondered about this on my last ride and loosened and re-tightened the axle when we stopped at the top of a climb. Still had issues.
    bar-stem interface - I am definitely getting a creak occasionally from there when I am torquing on the bars while climbing. I can hear and feel this one.
    fork steerer-crown interfaceI suppose this is possible but the sound I am referring is distinctly from the rear.

    I've had annoying creaks in the past, on several bikes, and they've rarely been the actual frame itself.
    Thank You for the reply and suggestions. I will explore the items that I had not thought of. The whole bike is only a couple months old and has less than 300 miles on it. I have replaced the drivetrain except crankset with XT8100 due to personal preference. Were it getting more time or miles on it I wouldn't be as concerned and would attributie it to things being worn.

  29. #2429
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    Since it is only happening out of the saddle we can rule out saddle rails (this is actually really common and annoying).

    As mentioned by Le Duke the list can be long.

    If you're out of the saddle you're probably up putting more pressure on the cockpit, check your headset and grease the bearings. Make sure your steer tube doesn't have any play in the headset. You may need to re-tighten the stem cap, make sure the stem cap is not bottoming out on the steer tube.

    Next I would pull the cranks and check the BB bearings, clean out old grease and add some new, same as the crank spindle.

    Last, and this is probably not it but good to do if you haven't recently, remove the lower link bolt for the rear triangle. remove the expander cone, then with an 8mm remove the link bolt. Clean it, give it a light greasing, and reinstall to torque.
    Thanks Fletch. I won't retype my reply above for you but I will explore the lower link as you mentioned. The rear and pivots all feel tight when I push/pull on the rear triangle but I know that's not always an accurate way to feel for things.

  30. #2430
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    The two-part fastener that holds the front of the rear shock bottoms out on itself before it clamps the shock properly. You can grab the front of the shock and rock it from side to side. Either cut a couple mm off the bolt part of the fastener, or add a thin shim to either side of the shock.

  31. #2431
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    So after 3 months and around 800 miles on the Sniper T Expert, I've gotten to know the bike inside out and am liking it more than ever. I've got the suspension dialed, I've upgraded the drivetrain and changed to my favorite saddle, I've gone through my first tune up and suspension service so it literally feels better than new. This thing loves to cover ground, fast. Up, across, down... doesn't matter.

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Is anyone else having these kinds of problems, or done similar changes to the bike? Any advice or comments on changes to forward-offset post, shorter stem, or narrower bars? In terms of the stem specifically, this is my first "modern geo" bike and it feels so stable and predictable, I don't really know how shortening it will affect handling; if it wasn't for the fit issue I'd be inclined to leave good enough alone. Some folks online say that going below 40mm or so on the stem can do really strange things to steering feel...

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers

  32. #2432
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    Anyone put a Hollowgram SiSL2 crank on a Sniper T? I'm thinking of moving one over from my PF30 Scalpel. Guessing I'll just need a new BB and maybe a chainring with a 3mm offset.

  33. #2433
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Anyone put a Hollowgram SiSL2 crank on a Sniper T? I'm thinking of moving one over from my PF30 Scalpel. Guessing I'll just need a new BB and maybe a chainring with a 3mm offset.
    I am. Running mine with a Cane Creek Hellbender Neo (SKF MTRX solid oil) BB. Works great.

    Re: chainring, I canít tell you. Running mine with an SRM spider and 104BCD WT ring.


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  34. #2434
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I am. Running mine with a Cane Creek Hellbender Neo (SKF MTRX solid oil) BB. Works great.

    Re: chainring, I canít tell you. Running mine with an SRM spider and 104BCD WT ring.


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    Thanks Le Duke! That's great to hear. Now to find some lighter wheels...

  35. #2435
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So after 3 months and around 800 miles on the Sniper T Expert, I've gotten to know the bike inside out and am liking it more than ever. I've got the suspension dialed, I've upgraded the drivetrain and changed to my favorite saddle, I've gone through my first tune up and suspension service so it literally feels better than new. This thing loves to cover ground, fast. Up, across, down... doesn't matter.

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Is anyone else having these kinds of problems, or done similar changes to the bike? Any advice or comments on changes to forward-offset post, shorter stem, or narrower bars? In terms of the stem specifically, this is my first "modern geo" bike and it feels so stable and predictable, I don't really know how shortening it will affect handling; if it wasn't for the fit issue I'd be inclined to leave good enough alone. Some folks online say that going below 40mm or so on the stem can do really strange things to steering feel...

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers
    Had the same issue with my medium. I'm 5'8 w/30" inseam and felt a bit stretched out with 50mm stem. Seat pushed forward which helped but then swapped to a 40mm stem and that did the trick. No adverse effects on handling. I do like a high stack height and sit more upright, can't do the bars below the seat bent over riding position. Bar width is 780mm.

    I'd suggest trying a 40mm stem first before cutting bars, etc. Simple thing to try that might solve the issue.

  36. #2436
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    Been meaning to share this with all the discussion about shocks. The factory DPS on my Trail took a crap a while back and found options limited for replacement. Really a FOX DPS or DPX2 are the only options.

    To me a DPS is not worth rebuilding and didn't want to cough up for a DPX2 right now so found a new take off DPS from a Giant Trance on Ebay for cheap. Has the same tune and volume spacer size, it's just 42.5mm stroke. 5 minutes unscrewing the air can and snipping out the 2.5mm travel reducer turned it into a 45mm stroke shock. Works great and even has a red decal that matches the digital camo frame.

    Wanted to share this option in case anyone is in the same boat. Probably pick up another one for when this one dies eventually....
    Last edited by gasmanxj; 06-19-2020 at 08:51 AM.

  37. #2437
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    What is your saddle height (center of bb to top of saddle)?

    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So after 3 months and around 800 miles on the Sniper T Expert, I've gotten to know the bike inside out and am liking it more than ever. I've got the suspension dialed, I've upgraded the drivetrain and changed to my favorite saddle, I've gone through my first tune up and suspension service so it literally feels better than new. This thing loves to cover ground, fast. Up, across, down... doesn't matter.

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Is anyone else having these kinds of problems, or done similar changes to the bike? Any advice or comments on changes to forward-offset post, shorter stem, or narrower bars? In terms of the stem specifically, this is my first "modern geo" bike and it feels so stable and predictable, I don't really know how shortening it will affect handling; if it wasn't for the fit issue I'd be inclined to leave good enough alone. Some folks online say that going below 40mm or so on the stem can do really strange things to steering feel...

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers

  38. #2438
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    I've been experimenting on this too, currently running about 795mm but have run 10mm or even 15mm higher in the past. Having my saddle slightly lower seems to help the whole "reach is too long" problem, though it probably creates other problems too...

    FYI My inseam is about 890mm

  39. #2439
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers
    I am 6'1" 33" inseam. I am on a Large and I feel it fits me perfectly. I haven't done a marathon ride on it yet, but a few 3-5 hour rides. No issues.

    Sounds like the bike is too big. Try shortening the stem. This will affect handling a bit, but my guess is you will adapt. Look at the geo numbers from the large and then try to match them with stem length.

    Also just to nitpick, I am guessing you are saying that the Effective Top Tube is too long. Reach is from the BB to the head tube and is really only a measurement that is in play when out of the saddle. You could have much more reach on the Sniper and it would feel fine.

  40. #2440
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    Quote Originally Posted by gasmanxj View Post
    Been meaning to share this with all the discussion about shocks. The factory DPS on my Trail took a crap a while back and found options limited for replacement. Really a FOX DPS or DPX2 are the only options.

    To me a DPS is not worth rebuilding and didn't want to cough up for a DPX2 right now so found a new take off DPS from a Giant Anthem on Ebay for cheap. Has the same tune and volume spacer size, it's just 42.5mm stroke. 5 minutes unscrewing the air can and snipping out the 2.5mm travel reducer turned it into a 45mm stroke shock. Works great and even has a red decal that matches the digital camo frame.

    Wanted to share this option in case anyone is in the same boat. Probably pick up another one for when this one dies eventually....
    Nice find!
    Also I know Ole says he likes his DPX2, but I had about an hour long convo with Craig @ Avalanche and he said the DPX2 is not a good shock for the Sniper and there wouldn't even be a way for him to tune it to make it decent with the bike. Strongly recommended to send in the DPS to get tuned, which I am doing. Sold the DPX2 after 3 rides on it.

  41. #2441
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Nice find!
    Also I know Ole says he likes his DPX2, but I had about an hour long convo with Craig @ Avalanche and he said the DPX2 is not a good shock for the Sniper and there wouldn't even be a way for him to tune it to make it decent with the bike. Strongly recommended to send in the DPS to get tuned, which I am doing. Sold the DPX2 after 3 rides on it.
    I actually tried a DVO Topaz first but doesn't fit with the cross brace which I wasn't willing to give up. Tune code for shock I got is DKMC. Here's the specs below, match up identical to the stock trail shock other than the shorter stroke.

    Intense Sniper-2020-06-19_8-38-58.jpg

  42. #2442
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    Yeah, that makes sense and I'd thought of this solution too. It would put me on one of those super-short 31mm or 32mm stems, which is just about as short as you can easily find them from many different brands. My only concern is how that will impact handling, since such a short stem would put my hands very close indeed to the steering axis, given sweep back angles on handlebars etc. And that can do kooky things to handling, apparently.

    Thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    I am 6'1" 33" inseam. I am on a Large and I feel it fits me perfectly. I haven't done a marathon ride on it yet, but a few 3-5 hour rides. No issues.

    Sounds like the bike is too big. Try shortening the stem. This will affect handling a bit, but my guess is you will adapt. Look at the geo numbers from the large and then try to match them with stem length.

    Also just to nitpick, I am guessing you are saying that the Effective Top Tube is too long. Reach is from the BB to the head tube and is really only a measurement that is in play when out of the saddle. You could have much more reach on the Sniper and it would feel fine.

  43. #2443
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    Yeah but a 35mm stem is a relatively cheap test and possible fix. I consider stems to be like saddles. Good chance I am going to swap them

  44. #2444
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    Re: Creaking. Most likely BB cups. I have to pop mine out and grease them a couple times a year.
    www.johnnyboy.ca

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  45. #2445
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    Quote Originally Posted by gasmanxj View Post
    Had the same issue with my medium. I'm 5'8 w/30" inseam and felt a bit stretched out with 50mm stem. Seat pushed forward which helped but then swapped to a 40mm stem and that did the trick. No adverse effects on handling. I do like a high stack height and sit more upright, can't do the bars below the seat bent over riding position. Bar width is 780mm.

    I'd suggest trying a 40mm stem first before cutting bars, etc. Simple thing to try that might solve the issue.
    Definitely recommend trying a different stem length first. I'm similar to gasmanxj at 5'8" on a medium but I actually needed a little more reach and put on a 55mm stem and it's perfect. Since you're on a Sniper T with a little slacker Headtube angle than the XC, any stack height adjustments will also bring the bars closer or farther from you.

  46. #2446
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So after 3 months and around 800 miles on the Sniper T Expert, I've gotten to know the bike inside out and am liking it more than ever. I've got the suspension dialed, I've upgraded the drivetrain and changed to my favorite saddle, I've gone through my first tune up and suspension service so it literally feels better than new. This thing loves to cover ground, fast. Up, across, down... doesn't matter.

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Is anyone else having these kinds of problems, or done similar changes to the bike? Any advice or comments on changes to forward-offset post, shorter stem, or narrower bars? In terms of the stem specifically, this is my first "modern geo" bike and it feels so stable and predictable, I don't really know how shortening it will affect handling; if it wasn't for the fit issue I'd be inclined to leave good enough alone. Some folks online say that going below 40mm or so on the stem can do really strange things to steering feel...

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers
    On my Primer which is setup very XC, I chose a Large. I am just over 6'2", with a 34" inseam, and the Large Primer was slightly too tight. I switched out the stem for a Syntace Flat-force 66mm, changed to a 740mm bar, and it is now feels perfect having slightly increased my reach. It is possible you too are kinda in the middle sizing wise. I suspect your Sniper has more reach and ETT length than my 2017 Primer (older version) does. I think you can tweak it to get you where you want to go and be super happy with your sizing choice.
    Last edited by trmn8er; 06-23-2020 at 08:19 PM.

  47. #2447
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    The recent responses in the thread show how unique and individual bike fit is.

    I'm 5'5", 31.5" inseam, riding a M. No spacers under a Syntace Flatforce 66mm stem, 740mm bars.

    If anything, I want to go longer in the stem.
    Death from Below.

  48. #2448
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    Too long to search, but what is the reach difference between the XC and Trail? They post the same number on the website but the Trail has to be a little shorter. Do we know by how much?
    www.johnnyboy.ca

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  49. #2449
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    This may be a silly question, but I am in the early stages of educating myself on all things regarding MTB maintenance; how does one go about removing a stripped out bolt?
    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Agree with everything you said (minus the headset, knock on wood). I even called Intense and asked if I could get two trunnion bolts and they said they could only sell me the entire linkage pack for $50. I have one stripped bolt. It's not worth $50.

  50. #2450
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLcoolG View Post
    This may be a silly question, but I am in the early stages of educating myself on all things regarding MTB maintenance; how does one go about removing a stripped out bolt?
    Thanks
    Google "screw extractor set".
    Death from Below.

  51. #2451
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    https://www.lowes.com/pd/speedout-8-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I just bought and used this and it worked to get an extremely tight truck bed tie down bolt out.

    You can also try the rubber band method since it is free and bike bolts are pretty low torque

    Google the rubber band method

    If nothing else works then you pay someone to weld a nut on the end

  52. #2452
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    Just got my WAO Revives in. Rear wheel is assembled, still need to true and tension.

    Should add to an already great ride.
    Death from Below.

  53. #2453
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    Hi guys, quick question.... My Sniper Trail (2019) is driving me crazy with a creak that occurs when pedaling under load whether seated or standing. I've hit all the regular spots so far: derailleur hanger, rear axle, seatpost, seat rails and clamp, pedals, stem, headset, checked all the torque settings on bushings, etc.... And still creaking. I have the cross brace, but I have noticed that if I grab the top tupe or seatpost with one hand, and the top of the rear tire in the other - I can recreate the sound by pushing/pulling the tire back and forth. Seems to be coming from either the top or bottom link. There still seems to be a little play in the rear end of the bike despite the brace. Do you think I have a bearing issue or problem with one of the links?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  54. #2454
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    Quote Originally Posted by kesda View Post
    Hi guys, quick question.... My Sniper Trail (2019) is driving me crazy with a creak that occurs when pedaling under load whether seated or standing. I've hit all the regular spots so far: derailleur hanger, rear axle, seatpost, seat rails and clamp, pedals, stem, headset, checked all the torque settings on bushings, etc.... And still creaking. I have the cross brace, but I have noticed that if I grab the top tupe or seatpost with one hand, and the top of the rear tire in the other - I can recreate the sound by pushing/pulling the tire back and forth. Seems to be coming from either the top or bottom link. There still seems to be a little play in the rear end of the bike despite the brace. Do you think I have a bearing issue or problem with one of the links?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I have had this exact problem. Solved it by tightening down the cross-brace and putting some more loctite on it.

  55. #2455
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    What a shame of service, at least in Europe.

    After spending more than 5K Euro on a Sniper I was "forced" to spend 50Ä extra on a cross-brace to fix a problem that should have never existed.

    It's ok, nevermind... but I was awaiting about 8 months to get the hecking cross-brace. After several e-mails and requests, they just forgot me and finally one day I sent a reminder I they were like "Oh, yes so sorry we forgot you..."

    Well I just asked if there was any possibility to get a little discount for such a delay, and of course they denied it. Well, I didn't complain so much... bad luck I thought....

    Once I received that precious piece I dicided to do it myself despite I'm a complete disaster as a mechanic, and yes, It happened.... I overtighten one of the screws which was shredded.

    I had no other option than to ask some professional mechanic to help me on this issue and the fist thing he said "please ask the distributor to provide you a new screw"

    After all, the reponse from Intense Europe was "we are sorry. You need to buy the full kitback again".

    In summary, I don't blame anyone. I just say the service is far away fron being just ok and therfore I PROMISE MY SNIPER WILL BE MY FIRST AND LAST INTENSE BIKE IN MY LIFE.

    Sorry but I dont recommend it at all

    Enviado desde mi SM-A505FN mediante Tapatalk

  56. #2456
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    Yeah, I would have liked to have had a goodwill cross brace shipped to me after building up a $10k bike that flexed. That, and I was also one of the people who also came up with an actual solution before Intense did anything. After seeing the official one having broken bolt problems, I am quite happy with my engineered solution that is lighter, just as effective and have had no problems with it. I still like the bike, but I feel they could have handled the brace thing much better.
    www.johnnyboy.ca

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  57. #2457
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfaura View Post
    What a shame of service, at least in Europe.

    After spending more than 5K Euro on a Sniper I was "forced" to spend 50Ä extra on a cross-brace to fix a problem that should have never existed.

    It's ok, nevermind... but I was awaiting about 8 months to get the hecking cross-brace. After several e-mails and requests, they just forgot me and finally one day I sent a reminder I they were like "Oh, yes so sorry we forgot you..."

    Well I just asked if there was any possibility to get a little discount for such a delay, and of course they denied it. Well, I didn't complain so much... bad luck I thought....

    Once I received that precious piece I dicided to do it myself despite I'm a complete disaster as a mechanic, and yes, It happened.... I overtighten one of the screws which was shredded.

    I had no other option than to ask some professional mechanic to help me on this issue and the fist thing he said "please ask the distributor to provide you a new screw"

    After all, the reponse from Intense Europe was "we are sorry. You need to buy the full kitback again".

    In summary, I don't blame anyone. I just say the service is far away fron being just ok and therfore I PROMISE MY SNIPER WILL BE MY FIRST AND LAST INTENSE BIKE IN MY LIFE.

    Sorry but I dont recommend it at all

    Enviado desde mi SM-A505FN mediante Tapatalk
    Shoot me a private message and I will get you a new bolt for your cross brace. INTENSE Europe office has just over gone a big change in the past couple of months as INTENSE US has taken over all operations and working to get customer service and product improved for customers.

  58. #2458
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    Shoot me a private message and I will get you a new bolt for your cross brace. INTENSE Europe office has just over gone a big change in the past couple of months as INTENSE US has taken over all operations and working to get customer service and product improved for customers.
    Thank you so much for your kind and swift reply.

    I really appreciate your attention

    Enviado desde mi SM-A505FN mediante Tapatalk

  59. #2459
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    Shoot me a private message and I will get you a new bolt for your cross brace. INTENSE Europe office has just over gone a big change in the past couple of months as INTENSE US has taken over all operations and working to get customer service and product improved for customers.
    Did you receive my PM? I have sent you a couples of messages but I'm not quite sure they were really sent since I can't see the any message record.



    Enviado desde mi SM-A505FN mediante Tapatalk

  60. #2460
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfaura View Post
    Did you receive my PM? I have sent you a couples of messages but I'm not quite sure they were really sent since I can't see the any message record.



    Enviado desde mi SM-A505FN mediante Tapatalk
    Yep received them all and responded. Cheers.

  61. #2461
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    Hmmm in a dilemma.

    Avalanche is ready to work on my shock, but I went back and looked at the info again and now I am not sure what to do.

    To get better descending I will loose the ability to lock the bike out. It should pedal better on terrain, but at the cost of locked out riding like fire roads.

    I have quite a few races that I do that involve fire roads.

    What do you all think is more beneficial, a lock out for fire roads or more efficient pedaling and descending on terrain? This is all for racing, not general riding.

    I just talked to Craig and he was super polite and helpful, but in the end he said I need to make a compromise somewhere.

  62. #2462
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Hmmm in a dilemma.

    Avalanche is ready to work on my shock, but I went back and looked at the info again and now I am not sure what to do.

    To get better descending I will loose the ability to lock the bike out. It should pedal better on terrain, but at the cost of locked out riding like fire roads.

    I have quite a few races that I do that involve fire roads.

    What do you all think is more beneficial, a lock out for fire roads or more efficient pedaling and descending on terrain? This is all for racing, not general riding.

    I just talked to Craig and he was super polite and helpful, but in the end he said I need to make a compromise somewhere.
    For racing I typically leave my shock in trail mode. I would prefer to have the ability to lock-out for long fire road climbs as you're going to be able to transfer more efficient watts. What is the updated shock going to provide? The one thing with the DPS shock that I don't like is on longer descents or chattery flat sections the shock heats up and the loss of performance in the shock is noticeable.

  63. #2463
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    Quick update as some have complained about creaking. After a long dry dusty and chattery ride last weekend I had washed my Sniper and it sat until this morning when I went for a ride. As soon as it started getting bumpy I started hearing a creak that sounded like it was coming from the shock/seat tube area. It was only when putting down power and through some chatter that I would hear it. I went through all the bolts and they were tight. I was pretty sure it was the cross brace. Sure enough I pulled the cross brace and it was bone dry and there was some dust and little bits of sand inside the cones. The creaking was the brace rubbing on the seat stays. I cleaned the brace and bolts, greased them all up, re-installed the cross brace and the creak was gone. One more area to check when servicing.

  64. #2464
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    The shock is supposed to get updated to have a firmer low speed "pedaling platform" (Craig didn't want to call it that, but for descriptions sake) but still blow off when hitting obstacles and then the descending would be more tunable with the lever. So no more Open/Trail/Firm and now all open but with control over the firmness and support through the shim stack if I remember correctly. Then more controlled blow off at speeds.

    So the shock should sit higher in its travel with more mid stroke support, but still be supple especially during pedaling and descending.

    The trade off is no mas firm lockout.

    My main issue with the suspension is that in pedal and open the shock goes through most of its travel on even the smallest of obstacles. So no real support. But since it is such a progressive frame it doesn't bottom out. I use the same amount of travel on a smooth trail, flow trail with jumps, or rocky trail.

    I am not saying I need to bottom out, I understand that that is not an indicator. My issue is that blows through 90 percent of the travel no matter the setting or conditions. It wallows.

    If this was just a trail bike or a daily driver it would be a no brainer, but it is set up for racing and will see fire roads.

  65. #2465
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    Quote Originally Posted by kesda View Post
    Hi guys, quick question.... My Sniper Trail (2019) is driving me crazy with a creak that occurs when pedaling under load whether seated or standing. I've hit all the regular spots so far: derailleur hanger, rear axle, seatpost, seat rails and clamp, pedals, stem, headset, checked all the torque settings on bushings, etc.... And still creaking. I have the cross brace, but I have noticed that if I grab the top tupe or seatpost with one hand, and the top of the rear tire in the other - I can recreate the sound by pushing/pulling the tire back and forth. Seems to be coming from either the top or bottom link. There still seems to be a little play in the rear end of the bike despite the brace. Do you think I have a bearing issue or problem with one of the links?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Have you had any luck figuring this out?

    My Sniper T does the same thing. I'm almost certain my creak is coming from the upper link or cross brace. If I pull them off and clean/grease everything and re-torque to spec, the creak will be gone... but comes back about 30-45 minutes into my ride every time.

    After the noise returns, I can push the rear tire side to side, just like you describe, and the bike creaks like crazy. It's extremely loud in fact.

    It's done this pretty much since I bought it. There have been very few rides where it's quiet the whole time.

    Any suggestions from anyone?

  66. #2466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Peepers View Post
    Have you had any luck figuring this out?

    My Sniper T does the same thing. I'm almost certain my creak is coming from the upper link or cross brace. If I pull them off and clean/grease everything and re-torque to spec, the creak will be gone... but comes back about 30-45 minutes into my ride every time.

    After the noise returns, I can push the rear tire side to side, just like you describe, and the bike creaks like crazy. It's extremely loud in fact.

    It's done this pretty much since I bought it. There have been very few rides where it's quiet the whole time.

    Any suggestions from anyone?
    It got better, but still there when pedaling hard. I read the post earlier about greasing the cross brace and I am going to try putting a little on the ends of the cross brace to see if that helps. I've already pulled the top link, cleaned everything, pulled the bearing covers and relubed them before reassembling it all. I also plan to pull the bottom link and do the same. Beyond that, I'm stumped. The bike was ridden quite a bit before I installed cross brace and perhaps the bearings in top link need to be replaced?? They seem to spin well enough after cleaning and re-greasing, but there still seems to be a bit of side to side play. Still love the bike, and have a blast on it.... Just want it to shut up when I am climbing!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  67. #2467
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Hmmm in a dilemma.

    Avalanche is ready to work on my shock, but I went back and looked at the info again and now I am not sure what to do.

    To get better descending I will loose the ability to lock the bike out. It should pedal better on terrain, but at the cost of locked out riding like fire roads.

    I have quite a few races that I do that involve fire roads.

    What do you all think is more beneficial, a lock out for fire roads or more efficient pedaling and descending on terrain? This is all for racing, not general riding.

    I just talked to Craig and he was super polite and helpful, but in the end he said I need to make a compromise somewhere.
    For racing, I like the firm lockout for climbs and smooth flats. I think it makes a decent difference in race times. I actually like the stock Sniper Trail shock. I leave it in trail mode and then flip to climb mode(not a full lock out, but plenty stiff enough) on long climbs. Never found the need to use open when racing, but it does feel buttery when just out trail riding. I think the trail mode strikes a good balance of pedaling and traction while racing.
    www.johnnyboy.ca

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  68. #2468
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    Yeah, keeping it stock.

  69. #2469
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    Got my new Sniper T Expert yesterday

    The magical box finally arrived yesterday. For reference, the 2 bikes I've been riding are a 2016 Cannondale Scalpel Carbon 2 and a 2017 Specialized Enduro Comp 650b. I have been slipping away from racing due to job and family over the past year or so and wanted the Sniper T to serve as a lightweight, comfortable, fun everyday bike that could also keep me in the mid-pack cat1 scene if needed.

    I was hoping it would feel the the love child of my 2 current bikes and that's pretty much what it feels like so far. I only built it up yesterday and am nursing bruised ribs so there's much to learn but thought I would share initial impressions:

    1. Weight - the weight was 28.7lbs out of the box with tubes, no pedals, for my size large. That's 2.5 more than the 26.2 listed for the medium on the website. I was a bit surprised by such a significant difference. I'm planning on swapping crank, brakes, derrailleur, cassette, wheels, cockpit and dropper over the coming months. Not sure I'll get it down to the 24lbs I was hoping for...

    2. Dropper - As expected, the 150mm dropper is too much for my short leg, long torso and arms 5' 10". I've got a oneup V1 shim-able dropper (that I'm not overly fond of) that will keep me going for now.

    3. THE RIDE: EVERYTHING I'D HOPED FOR, so far. Fun, fast, nimble, supple, confidence-inspiring, solid...I spent 5 minutes setting up the suspension and was really impressed with the range of dynamics available. Open mode feels very supple and trail ready for my 152lbs with NE rocks and roots; firm mode provides stronger pedaling platform for more buff/fast flowing stuff, fireroads, to/from trailheads. I rarely go beyond that setting but there's a firm mode too.

    Compared to my race rocket scalpel, this thing is much more dynamic suspension-wise with slack funness and, while I haven't hit anything high speed yet, I fully expect it to eat up the chunder at a totally different level. Compared to my enduro, the geo is strikingly similar. Front end feels very similar, back end is a little longer which I can feel but not a bad thing. I'm a little more on top of the bike than inside which could be the 650b to 29" change.

    The quality of this bike seems to be outstanding. Frame finish is gorgeous and the parts, even on my lowly Expert build, seem to be very decent. Can't wait to start accumulating miles on this thing.

  70. #2470
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    The magical box finally arrived yesterday. For reference, the 2 bikes I've been riding are a 2016 Cannondale Scalpel Carbon 2 and a 2017 Specialized Enduro Comp 650b. I have been slipping away from racing due to job and family over the past year or so and wanted the Sniper T to serve as a lightweight, comfortable, fun everyday bike that could also keep me in the mid-pack cat1 scene if needed.

    I was hoping it would feel the the love child of my 2 current bikes and that's pretty much what it feels like so far. I only built it up yesterday and am nursing bruised ribs so there's much to learn but thought I would share initial impressions:

    1. Weight - the weight was 28.7lbs out of the box with tubes, no pedals, for my size large. That's 2.5 more than the 26.2 listed for the medium on the website. I was a bit surprised by such a significant difference. I'm planning on swapping crank, brakes, derrailleur, cassette, wheels, cockpit and dropper over the coming months. Not sure I'll get it down to the 24lbs I was hoping for...

    2. Dropper - As expected, the 150mm dropper is too much for my short leg, long torso and arms 5' 10". I've got a oneup V1 shim-able dropper (that I'm not overly fond of) that will keep me going for now.

    3. THE RIDE: EVERYTHING I'D HOPED FOR, so far. Fun, fast, nimble, supple, confidence-inspiring, solid...I spent 5 minutes setting up the suspension and was really impressed with the range of dynamics available. Open mode feels very supple and trail ready for my 152lbs with NE rocks and roots; firm mode provides stronger pedaling platform for more buff/fast flowing stuff, fireroads, to/from trailheads. I rarely go beyond that setting but there's a firm mode too.

    Compared to my race rocket scalpel, this thing is much more dynamic suspension-wise with slack funness and, while I haven't hit anything high speed yet, I fully expect it to eat up the chunder at a totally different level. Compared to my enduro, the geo is strikingly similar. Front end feels very similar, back end is a little longer which I can feel but not a bad thing. I'm a little more on top of the bike than inside which could be the 650b to 29" change.

    The quality of this bike seems to be outstanding. Frame finish is gorgeous and the parts, even on my lowly Expert build, seem to be very decent. Can't wait to start accumulating miles on this thing.
    I think even on a size large you could get that bike sub 25 quickly. Tubeless will net you half a pound just out the gate. Tires and Wheels are the next biggest saving. The wheels on the expert build are pretty beefy alloy wheels and are 30mm inner width (Really good wheels on a trail bike, overkill if you're looking to stay light).

  71. #2471
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    Time for some side-by-side comparisons. Really excited to have just picked up a 2020 Sniper T Elite. Now I can do some comparisons between this and my 2018 Sniper XC. Is anyone interested in me starting a new thread on this and I can answer questions and we can share info? First up, I'm going to weigh them.
    Intense Sniper-img_0090.jpg
    Intense Sniper-img_0093.jpg

  72. #2472
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    yes vote for new thread with weights and comparisons on stiffness and ride
    2021 Specialized S-works epic EVO
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  73. #2473
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    Rear shock replacement

    I'm thinking of replacing the rear shock on my new Sniper T Expert. The stock Fox Float DPS Expert started losing air after just 4 months on the bike; I took it to the shop and they said it was bone-dry, and the anodizing on the shaft had started to wear off. I have to replace seals and do a whole air can service. This, even though I'd serviced the shock as per the suggested maintenance schedule just 6 weeks ago.

    But I'm not surprised, since I had a Fox shock on my previous bike that was finicky and high-maintenance and prone to malfunctioning, too. Honestly, I love how the Fox shock on the sniper performs... when it performs. Currently I'm just annoyed at being off my new bike for this reason.

    So I'm thinking of maybe, eventually, getting a new rear shock, and probably switching to RockShox. My first question is, when replacing the stock shock with it's "special factory tune" with an off-the-shelf tune, does this negatively affect suspension?

    Secondly, am I correct to think that RockShox is more reliable and maintenance-free than Fox in this sense?

    And thirdly, which RockShox to get? I like the idea of the 3-position adjust, the closest I seem to find on RockShox is the Deluxe Nude, which was apparently developed with Scott for their Spark model. Any idea how this shock performs on a non-Spark?

    In case it matters: I ride cross-country and trail, not many technical sections but plenty of long climbs and fast, open descents on rocky, and often muddy, terrain...

    Thank, any input is appreciated...

  74. #2474
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    2019 Sniper SL Trail - For Sale

    (My apologies in advance if it's not cool to promote a sale post in this thread.) Selling a Large 2019 Sniper SL Trail if anyone is interested:
    https://classifieds.mtbr.com/showpro...product=119501

  75. #2475
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    I'm thinking of replacing the rear shock on my new Sniper T Expert. The stock Fox Float DPS Expert started losing air after just 4 months on the bike; I took it to the shop and they said it was bone-dry, and the anodizing on the shaft had started to wear off. I have to replace seals and do a whole air can service. This, even though I'd serviced the shock as per the suggested maintenance schedule just 6 weeks ago.

    But I'm not surprised, since I had a Fox shock on my previous bike that was finicky and high-maintenance and prone to malfunctioning, too. Honestly, I love how the Fox shock on the sniper performs... when it performs. Currently I'm just annoyed at being off my new bike for this reason.

    So I'm thinking of maybe, eventually, getting a new rear shock, and probably switching to RockShox. My first question is, when replacing the stock shock with it's "special factory tune" with an off-the-shelf tune, does this negatively affect suspension?

    Secondly, am I correct to think that RockShox is more reliable and maintenance-free than Fox in this sense?

    And thirdly, which RockShox to get? I like the idea of the 3-position adjust, the closest I seem to find on RockShox is the Deluxe Nude, which was apparently developed with Scott for their Spark model. Any idea how this shock performs on a non-Spark?

    In case it matters: I ride cross-country and trail, not many technical sections but plenty of long climbs and fast, open descents on rocky, and often muddy, terrain...

    Thank, any input is appreciated...
    Call up Intense and see what they recommend.

    Check out the McLeod, lots of people seem to like it and it is supposed to be much more adjustable than RS or Fox.

    If you can find a cheap shock and don't need the lock out, look to send it into Avalanche racing and then it shouldn't really matter what the tune is beforehand. You could call Avy and see what they say as far as what shock they would recommend you getting and sending them.

  76. #2476
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Call up Intense and see what they recommend.

    Check out the McLeod, lots of people seem to like it and it is supposed to be much more adjustable than RS or Fox.

    If you can find a cheap shock and don't need the lock out, look to send it into Avalanche racing and then it shouldn't really matter what the tune is beforehand. You could call Avy and see what they say as far as what shock they would recommend you getting and sending them.
    The only problem with the McLeod is that it's not a Trunnion mount. Oh, and it only comes in 165x38. That said, you CAN buy "normal" shock eye to Trunnion mount adapter kits.

    service.dirtlabs.com/product/trunnion-mount-adapter-kit/

    However, the new Manitou Mara (not Pro, just Mara) is purportedly McLeod-like in its adjustability and performance, but in Trunnion-native format, in both 165x40 and 165x45 lengths.

    https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...roducts/mara_z

    Are you sending your DPX2 to Avy? I've been riding mine, and while it's OK for drops and chunk, I still feel like the back end is trying to throw me over the bars when I'm pumping through rollers, and that's with the rebound as slow as it will possibly go.
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  77. #2477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So... after almost 3 months on my Sniper T Expert, I thought I'd give the bike a run-thru to make sure every nut and bolt was tight. I payed special attention to the suspension, since there's some side-to-side play in my rear wheel and I wanted to make sue this wasn't caused by the suspension (as happened to me on a different bike).

    In any case, I managed to completely break the torx bolt that holds the cross-brace link in place (see pics below). I believe it's a titanium bolt? I was using the Intense-supplied torque wrench, so this was not an issue of applying too much force. Nothing like this has ever happened to me before...

    Has this sort of thing happened to anyone else? Any ideas why this happened? Are Ti bolts weaker than the regular kind? Is this a titanium bolt? And most importantly: is this fixable, i.e., will my LBS be able to remove the broken bolt?

    Thanks



    Hey Leyenda, I just got my 2020 Sniper T a couple weeks ago, and literally the exact same thing happened to me. I could send a pic that literally looks the exact same as your 2 pics here, sux. Did you end up getting the broken bolt out? curious to know how/if you resolved this, considering I'm now in the exact same situation. Thanks!

  78. #2478
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    Did the same thing with mine! I used a screw extractor kit I got at Lowe's to remove and just replaced it with a stainless bolt also from Lowes with the same dimensions. The screw came right out very easily with extractor kit and a cordless drill.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  79. #2479
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    Also, I contacted Intense to see about a replacement bolt and was told that I could only buy the whole brace kit - hence the stainless one from Lowe's!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  80. #2480
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    Haha, I was super careful on that bolt after reading some of these posts... didn't snap him, thanks for being the guinee pigs! (well that and the manual say 4Nm).
    All the gear and no idea.

  81. #2481
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    Anyone having issues with the heat the OEM Fox shock produces on their Sniper XC? I haven't had a failure or anything but I can't imagine that with the heat that this thing is producing that it won't have a problem sooner rather than later. Even if it doesn't blow, I would think the oil life would be pretty short. I've had many other bikes through the years and haven't noticed this much heat from any of the others.

    I love the way the bike rides but would love to replace the shock with something that runs a little cooler

  82. #2482
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    hard knock life

    Quote Originally Posted by IWantoRideMyBike View Post
    Hey Leyenda, I just got my 2020 Sniper T a couple weeks ago, and literally the exact same thing happened to me. I could send a pic that literally looks the exact same as your 2 pics here, sux. Did you end up getting the broken bolt out? curious to know how/if you resolved this, considering I'm now in the exact same situation. Thanks!
    I kept riding the bike for a few more weeks until I had to take it in for routine maintenance. At the shop they managed to remove it (don't ask me how) and for a few dollars got a custom-made bolt in the exact same size, and with the same T25 bolt head.

    I now suffer the indignity of having one non-titanium bolt on my Intense. #firstworldproblems

  83. #2483
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpelaston View Post
    Anyone having issues with the heat the OEM Fox shock produces on their Sniper XC? I haven't had a failure or anything but I can't imagine that with the heat that this thing is producing that it won't have a problem sooner rather than later. Even if it doesn't blow, I would think the oil life would be pretty short. I've had many other bikes through the years and haven't noticed this much heat from any of the others.

    I love the way the bike rides but would love to replace the shock with something that runs a little cooler
    I've been running my shock for 2,000 miles and never had a failure. In the summers I ride in 90+ degrees and the shock definitely gets hot after long descents. Unfortunately Fox doesn't make a 165x40 or 165x45 DPX2 which would be great to try. DVO has a Topaz trunnion mount they offer in both a 165x40 and 165x45. https://dvosuspension.com/shocks/topaz-t3air/ This has an reservoir and cooling fins on the reservoir. The DVO shocks are very adjustable and once you get them set-up they are pretty bomb proof.

  84. #2484
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    I've been running my shock for 2,000 miles and never had a failure. In the summers I ride in 90+ degrees and the shock definitely gets hot after long descents. Unfortunately Fox doesn't make a 165x40 or 165x45 DPX2 which would be great to try. DVO has a Topaz trunnion mount they offer in both a 165x40 and 165x45. https://dvosuspension.com/shocks/topaz-t3air/ This has an reservoir and cooling fins on the reservoir. The DVO shocks are very adjustable and once you get them set-up they are pretty bomb proof.

    Awesome info and I always appreciate your responses.

    Like I said, I love the bike and the way it the shock works and handles it was just weird how hot it got. Granted it was 90ish and very humid when I rode it last and on a trail that has a ton of tree roots that are 2-4" or more tall.. The shock was definitely getting a workout.

    I also am on the heavier side and am running 220ish PSI in the shock and I noticed the heat in the shock as I pulled into the parking lot and loaded the bike. All my previous bikes may have been the same way over the years and I have just not noticed it.

    I am going to just keep riding it and hope it continues to work as well as it has been and if something happens, it happens. I can try one of those DVO shocks then. For now, I'll just focus on riding and dropping some weight and getting back in shape.

  85. #2485
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    I've been running my shock for 2,000 miles and never had a failure. In the summers I ride in 90+ degrees and the shock definitely gets hot after long descents. Unfortunately Fox doesn't make a 165x40 or 165x45 DPX2 which would be great to try. DVO has a Topaz trunnion mount they offer in both a 165x40 and 165x45. https://dvosuspension.com/shocks/topaz-t3air/ This has an reservoir and cooling fins on the reservoir. The DVO shocks are very adjustable and once you get them set-up they are pretty bomb proof.
    Unfortunately the Topaz will not fit with the cross brace in place, I tried one. There's a protrusion in the casing for the rebound knob shaft that sticks out enough to contact brace.

  86. #2486
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    I would like to try the manitou mara pro but don't want to give up the lower bottle. The top bottle would also have to move up .5". Could use the wolf tooth b-rad which would move the bottle up plus give the second one back. But that would move a lot of weight distribution towards the front of the bike.

    The single can mara would be an option too. But right now the stock fox is doing a fine job for me.

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  87. #2487
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    Man I love this bike! Makes kom hunting so much easier

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  88. #2488
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    Quote Originally Posted by gasmanxj View Post
    Unfortunately the Topaz will not fit with the cross brace in place, I tried one. There's a protrusion in the casing for the rebound knob shaft that sticks out enough to contact brace.
    Good to know!

  89. #2489
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    The only problem with the McLeod is that it's not a Trunnion mount. Oh, and it only comes in 165x38. That said, you CAN buy "normal" shock eye to Trunnion mount adapter kits.

    service.dirtlabs.com/product/trunnion-mount-adapter-kit/

    However, the new Manitou Mara (not Pro, just Mara) is purportedly McLeod-like in its adjustability and performance, but in Trunnion-native format, in both 165x40 and 165x45 lengths.

    https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...roducts/mara_z

    Are you sending your DPX2 to Avy? I've been riding mine, and while it's OK for drops and chunk, I still feel like the back end is trying to throw me over the bars when I'm pumping through rollers, and that's with the rebound as slow as it will possibly go.
    Forgot that a new shock doesn't come trunnion.

    I sold my DPX2. Craig at Avy said it wouldn't work right with the Sniper's progressiveness and is not great for custom tuning.

    I was going to send in my DPS, but talked to Craig again and decided since I wanted/needed a lockout for fire road climbs in races that the Avy tune wouldn't be the best choice.

    If this was just a daily driver bike and not a race bike for me I would definitely do the Avy tune on the DPS.

  90. #2490
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    I've been running my shock for 2,000 miles and never had a failure. In the summers I ride in 90+ degrees and the shock definitely gets hot after long descents. Unfortunately Fox doesn't make a 165x40 or 165x45 DPX2 which would be great to try. DVO has a Topaz trunnion mount they offer in both a 165x40 and 165x45. https://dvosuspension.com/shocks/topaz-t3air/ This has an reservoir and cooling fins on the reservoir. The DVO shocks are very adjustable and once you get them set-up they are pretty bomb proof.
    Fox does make a DPX2 in 165x45. I owned one and it does not work well on the Sniper, at least with the tune it had which was similar to the DPS tune. I posted pics of it back in the thread somewhere.

    Ole, Drewbird, and LeDuke also had DPX2 on theirs I believe.

    Fun fact is that a DPX2 on a large frame will allow two water bottles.

  91. #2491
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    Rear shock compatibility

    It seems many of us are considering alternative rear shocks for our snipers. It also seems like this is one of the most difficult components to replace: besides the dizzying standards, there's also the problem of size (i.e. DVO Topaz won't fit with cross brace, apparently, and some piggybacks won't fit with two water bottles) and shock tune (as mentioned, the Fox DPX2 seems to be incompatible with the sniper's progressiveness).

    Could we start some kind of rear-shock compatibility poll or thread or whatever? Personally, I'm especially interested in a more reliable inline shock than the stock Fox Float DPS....

  92. #2492
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    It seems many of us are considering alternative rear shocks for our snipers. It also seems like this is one of the most difficult components to replace: besides the dizzying standards, there's also the problem of size (i.e. DVO Topaz won't fit with cross brace, apparently, and some piggybacks won't fit with two water bottles) and shock tune (as mentioned, the Fox DPX2 seems to be incompatible with the sniper's progressiveness).

    Could we start some kind of rear-shock compatibility poll or thread or whatever? Personally, I'm especially interested in a more reliable inline shock than the stock Fox Float DPS....
    From what I was able to figure out when my DPS died a few months back is we are pretty much stuck with it or the DPX2. Topaz and RS Super Deluxe are no go's due to fitment, McLeod does not come in right size, the Mara/Mara Pro looks like it will have same cross brace fitment issue as the Topaz (see pic).

    The RS Deluxe Nude might be a possibilty. Looks ok fit wise and tunes are M/M, so it might be a suitable replacement.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Intense Sniper-screenshot_20200722-202608_samsung-internet.jpg  


  93. #2493
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    Here are the mara pro's measurements.

    If the pro does not fit i would just go with the standard mara. I have had the mcloud on previous bikes and it has been better than both fox and rockshox. But like I said before the DPS is doing just fine here in Ohio, but we don't have any extended downhills to heat it up as much as someone in Colorado has. Since all the races have been canceled, I have not been traveling to test this beast of a bike out anywhere else.

    http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5f19821d...ET%20SHOCK.pdf

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  94. #2494
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    Was curious if the new RS SID LUXE would fit?
    www.johnnyboy.ca

    .:grupettolife.com: mtbrealtors.com:.

  95. #2495
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyboy.ca View Post
    Was curious if the new RS SID LUXE would fit?
    Could only find this pic of a trunnion mount version but looks like it would fit. My quick look at SRAM's page shows it comes in few tunes so could be another option.


  96. #2496
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyboy.ca View Post
    Was curious if the new RS SID LUXE would fit?
    Yes it will. l've seen one on a Sniper.

  97. #2497
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    Just installed a Diaz Suspension Design Runt on my 34 SC.

    Totally transformed it. Very worthwhile upgrade for anyone who isnít satisfied with the small bump compliance with their 34 SC.


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    Death from Below.

  98. #2498
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    Cracked rear Rim E*thirteen XCX Carbon 28mm

    I was riding in some rocky terrain yesterday and cracked my rear rim rolling over a rock lip at decent speed. The rock itself wasn't any bigger than a curb, proabbly smaller actually. I only got my bike a few weeks ago (2020 sniper T elite model) so this is quite dissapointing for sure. This was the rockiest trails I've taken it in thus far. Has anyone else cracked their E*thirteen XCX Carbon rims? and what was your experience in fixing it or replacing it under warranty or not? I read on e*thirteens website they have a lifetime warranty on carbon rims. I bought it through MEC (canadian dealer) and I think they want me to bring it into them to advise what to do. Assuming the incident is a valid reason under their usage/warranty polcies, I'm assuming they will process the warranty through e-thirteen? Hopefully it wont take too long or they can give me a demo bike or replacement wheel while we wait.

    Are these rims not well suited for more hard hitting rocky stuff?
    Tire pressure was probably somewhere in the low 20's (maybe it should have been higher, but I'm a lighter rider at around 130lbs right now)
    Last edited by IWantoRideMyBike; 4 Days Ago at 08:54 PM.

  99. #2499
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    Rims if tires are aired up properly (which it sounds like they were) should not crack during everyday riding.

    You wheels are made for XC/Trail riding, but they should go over rocks just fine. Casing a huge jump on the other hand...

    I run 24psi in the rear and 22psi in the front and I weigh 160-170lbs. These are 28-30mm ID rims. On my narrower rims that were 23-25mm I would run about 27psi rear and 24psi front, so you sound fine.

    Parts break. Thats why you have a warranty.

  100. #2500
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    Le Duke, did you just purchase a Runt or did you send it into DSD for their overhaul tune?

    And since you and I seem to be riding some weight weenie bikes, happen to know the weight?

  101. #2501
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Le Duke, did you just purchase a Runt or did you send it into DSD for their overhaul tune?

    And since you and I seem to be riding some weight weenie bikes, happen to know the weight?
    Just purchased from them. Iíll ride it this way for a while. If I decide to get the damper tuned, Durango is only a dayís shipping time away.


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  102. #2502
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Fox does make a DPX2 in 165x45. I owned one and it does not work well on the Sniper, at least with the tune it had which was similar to the DPS tune. I posted pics of it back in the thread somewhere.

    Ole, Drewbird, and LeDuke also had DPX2 on theirs I believe.
    After I got my DPX2 rebuilt to be as similar to the Trail tune DPS as possible, I am extremely happy. Very smooth, absorbs square edge hits very well, pedals well, and doesn't fade. With the 34SC up front, the bike feels like a big trail bike despite weighing below 22lbs.

  103. #2503
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    Quote Originally Posted by IWantoRideMyBike View Post
    I was riding in some rocky terrain yesterday and cracked my rear rim rolling over a rock lip at decent speed. The rock itself wasn't any bigger than a curb, proabbly smaller actually. I only got my bike a few weeks ago (2020 sniper elite model) so this is quite dissapointing for sure. This was the rockiest trails I've taken it in thus far. Has anyone else cracked their E*thirteen XCX Carbon rims? and what was your experience in fixing it or replacing it under warranty or not? I read on e*thirteens website they have a lifetime warranty on carbon rims. I bought it through MEC (canadian dealer) and I think they want me to bring it into them to advise what to do. Assuming the incident is a valid reason under their usage/warranty polcies, I'm assuming they will process the warranty through e-thirteen? Hopefully it wont take too long or they can give me a demo bike or replacement wheel while we wait.

    Are these rims not well suited for more hard hitting rocky stuff?
    Tire pressure was probably somewhere in the low 20's (maybe it should have been higher, but I'm a lighter rider at around 130lbs right now)
    I've got the XCX 24mm wheels on my Sniper XC and they have been solid. Keep in mind these are some of the lightest carbon wheels in the industry. Ethirteen does have a lifetime warranty so I would contact them and submit a claim. As long as there is no visible damage of something coming from the side and smashing into the wheel they should warranty the rim. I run 28 psi on my Sniper. This helps to roll faster and since the sidewalls on XC tires aren't as stiff as trail/enduro tires it helps to keep from banging into the rim.

  104. #2504
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    Just wanted to confirm that the Sid Lux will not fit with the cross brace. It works fine without the cross brace.

  105. #2505
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    Just wanted to confirm that the Sid Lux will not fit with the cross brace. It works fine without the cross brace.

    Nooooooooooooo! That sucks.
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  106. #2506
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    Quote Originally Posted by IWantoRideMyBike View Post
    Are these rims not well suited for more hard hitting rocky stuff?
    Tire pressure was probably somewhere in the low 20's (maybe it should have been higher, but I'm a lighter rider at around 130lbs right now)
    I'm 133 lbs and run my tires at 18psi front, 20psi rear. On ENVE 50 wheels and Snakeskin 2.25" Racing Ralph tires. Usually ride a mix of rocky, rooty singletrack at a good pace (ex DH racer).
    www.johnnyboy.ca

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  107. #2507
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    Cracked rear Rim E*thirteen XCX Carbon 28mm

    I'm a fairly aggressive rider as well and would like to use my sniper as more of a super-lightweight do anything, take on any terrain type bike (ideally). My shop is working on getting a replacement wheel on my bike from another sniper T they're ordering in, seems to be covered under the store warranty. While we wait I've been researching if I should consider installing tire inserts like the Vittoria airliner or cushcore to help protect the rims and prevent this from happening again. Do you use any inserts at the pressures you're running? Or have you ever?

    Also curious to hear other riders' on here thoughts about using tire inserts in general for the Sniper T, whether personal experience or conjecture. It seems like there is a good amount of positive reviews out there in support of them and the added benefits beyond just rim protection? The only con I would care about is the added wheel weight, but could consider adding it only to the rear wheel instead of both?
    Does anyone think me cracking a rear rim here was just a fluke on the elite xcx rims or possible manufacturers defect, and so tire inserts not necessary? Considering I've only had the bike a few weeks now and this already happened, makes me want to go for the extra protection and piece of mind knowing its there taking the impacts.

    If I do decide to go for a liner, any opinions on the best ones to choose for Sniper T and if so, install rear only, or both front and back?

  108. #2508
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    145# aggressive xc racer (but doesn't everyone think they are?). On my xc bikes I run Victoria air liners on rear only. Was running about 23, 24 rear pressure, but with the inserts now run 19 rear. Before the inserts I would pinch flat maybe 3 timed a year but have never pinch flatted since the inserts were installed. Never have destroyed a rim carbon or aluminum and have been running carbon since the valors were introduced (2015?).

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  109. #2509
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    If you want the bike to be a do everything bike then you need to get do everything wheels. The xcx should be able to handle regular riding scenarios, but if you are doing high speed chunk or blowing out tires then that is not what they are made for.

    I mean honestly I donít consider the Sniper to be a do it all bike in the first place. A do it all bike would be a proper trail or enduro bike.

    The sniper is going to excel going up with some sacrifices going down. The enduro bike is going to handle the DH well at the expense of going up, but most people arenít destroying parts or bikes going up.

    A well built trail bike is going to be the best of those worlds.

  110. #2510
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    Quote Originally Posted by IWantoRideMyBike View Post
    While we wait I've been researching if I should consider installing tire inserts like the Vittoria airliner or cushcore to help protect the rims and prevent this from happening again. Do you use any inserts at the pressures you're running? Or have you ever?

    Also curious to hear other riders' on here thoughts about using tire inserts in general for the Sniper T, whether personal experience or conjecture. It seems like there is a good amount of positive reviews out there in support of them and the added benefits beyond just rim protection? The only con I would care about is the added wheel weight, but could consider adding it only to the rear wheel instead of both?
    I don't run inserts on my Sniper yet but do on my big bike after cracking 2 carbon rims the past few years in janky rock gardens. No problems since. I use CushCore but on the Sniper I'd go for something lighter like Pepi's, Tubolight, Mynesweeper, CushCore xc, etc. There's a big thread over in Tires and Wheels section on light inserts. Inserts do provide stability and increased dampening in addition to rim protection, it was noticeable to me on the first ride. Rear only would probably be ok but some folks like both.

    I don't have an issue changing tires with Cushcore, once the technique is down takes about 10 minutes. There's the potential issue on trail if you have to remove tire but I've never encountered that and know a lot of people that run inserts that have not either.

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