Intense Sniper - Page 13- Mtbr.com
Page 13 of 13 FirstFirst ... 3910111213
Results 2,401 to 2,453 of 2453

Thread: Intense Sniper

  1. #2401
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    531
    I haven't had that problem exactly, but so far my only issues with my Sniper have been bolt related.

    Lost a seat clamp bolt the first ride
    Linkage bolt was cross threaded (from factory) on the rear triangle
    Stripped the Trunnion mount bolt (doing what you were doing, normal maintenance with torque wrench)

    The bolt action on the Sniper seems weak

  2. #2402
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    38
    Let me start with, I love this bike. Lightweight, capable, pedals and descends great. I also have had troubles with bolts/linkage. The bolts are only available in packs so you can't just get the bolt you need. You have to get the $50 pack. Never had these types of issues with any other bike. Only other issue is that the headset develops creaks frequently requiring service often. All of that said I don't regret my decision. If it were stolen or anything like that I would buy it again.

  3. #2403
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    531
    Quote Originally Posted by scooter_b3 View Post
    Let me start with, I love this bike. Lightweight, capable, pedals and descends great. I also have had troubles with bolts/linkage. The bolts are only available in packs so you can't just get the bolt you need. You have to get the $50 pack. Never had these types of issues with any other bike. Only other issue is that the headset develops creaks frequently requiring service often. All of that said I don't regret my decision. If it were stolen or anything like that I would buy it again.
    Agree with everything you said (minus the headset, knock on wood). I even called Intense and asked if I could get two trunnion bolts and they said they could only sell me the entire linkage pack for $50. I have one stripped bolt. It's not worth $50.

  4. #2404
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So... after almost 3 months on my Sniper T Expert, I thought I'd give the bike a run-thru to make sure every nut and bolt was tight. I payed special attention to the suspension, since there's some side-to-side play in my rear wheel and I wanted to make sue this wasn't caused by the suspension (as happened to me on a different bike).

    In any case, I managed to completely break the torx bolt that holds the cross-brace link in place (see pics below). I believe it's a titanium bolt? I was using the Intense-supplied torque wrench, so this was not an issue of applying too much force. Nothing like this has ever happened to me before...

    Has this sort of thing happened to anyone else? Any ideas why this happened? Are Ti bolts weaker than the regular kind? Is this a titanium bolt? And most importantly: is this fixable, i.e., will my LBS be able to remove the broken bolt?

    Thanks

    Attachment 1336919

    Attachment 1336917
    What torque setting were you tightening to? I believe it's supposed to be just 4nm.

    I screwed up the first time and started to tighten to the 16nm shown on the other bolt it feeds into.

  5. #2405
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    20
    Are you serious?! If it is 4Nm, and not 16Nm as you see in the picture, this seems like an almost deliberate mislead on the part of Intense!

    So to answer your question: yes, I was tightening to 16 Nm... didn't even cross my mind that could be wrong.

  6. #2406
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    32
    The black piece with 16nm on it is another bolt. I believe it's what's actually securing the cross brace. The torx is there to keep it from backing out maybe?

    Check the user manual for more detail. It shows the torque for the torx there.

    It almost got me too, but caught myself before tightening too much.

  7. #2407
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    20
    Ok, I guess I f#cked up then. Seriously, didn't cross my mind that the torque rating stated literally right there, might refer to a different bolt.

    ANYWAYS... do you think this is fixable? Will my LBS be able to remove the bolt?

    Cheers

  8. #2408
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So... after almost 3 months on my Sniper T Expert, I thought I'd give the bike a run-thru to make sure every nut and bolt was tight. I payed special attention to the suspension, since there's some side-to-side play in my rear wheel and I wanted to make sue this wasn't caused by the suspension (as happened to me on a different bike).

    In any case, I managed to completely break the torx bolt that holds the cross-brace link in place (see pics below). I believe it's a titanium bolt? I was using the Intense-supplied torque wrench, so this was not an issue of applying too much force. Nothing like this has ever happened to me before...

    Has this sort of thing happened to anyone else? Any ideas why this happened? Are Ti bolts weaker than the regular kind? Is this a titanium bolt? And most importantly: is this fixable, i.e., will my LBS be able to remove the broken bolt?

    Thanks
    Overtorque aside looks like there is not a lot of meat at the shoulder where it meets with the torx relief...looks like a smaller size torx should've been spec'd to help avoid situations like that. Should be relatively easy to remove by LBS.

  9. #2409
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    1
    Hey guys,

    Been riding my Sniper XC for about a year now, I do primarily XC style riding, and am about to jump into XC racing (already race CX and Road). Ive been running the bike with a RS Pike set at 100mm. While i love the pike, the weight (1950g) hurts to swallow, so I am going to be moving towards a more XC oriented fork. I am looking at the RS Sid WC.

    The pike i have is a 51mm offset, and the Sniper recommends a 44mm. Has anyone tried both? Or can anyone shed some light on the differences I'll notice (if any) with the 44mm vs 51mm offset?

  10. #2410
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,203
    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Ole, why did you send it in to Fox or somewhere else? Is it worth it to have someone like Avalanche custom tune it? Basically doubles the price I paid for it.

    Thanks
    I sent it to Fox here in Norway. I supplied the Tune ID for the original Sniper Trail shock, and they then re-built the DPX2 to match that tune as closely as possible. I took it out on the first ride yesterday, a epic technical 5 hour ride, and it was perfect from get go. 200psi for my 180lb weight gave me around 35% sag, ran 2 clicks from open low speed comp, and 6 clicks from closed rebound. Didn't have to touch it after that, and even long technical descents left it feeling controlled. The bike is in race trim at 21.8lbs with dropper post, 2.6" tires and 34sc, and it did not ever feel like a lightweight sketchy xc bike. I plowed into rock gardens and deep roots with little concern for the bike. Ok, so my 1180g wheels made me tip-toe a little bit over large sharp rocks, but the Tubolight insert in the rear prevented any strikes. Super happy!

  11. #2411
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by Ole View Post
    Attachment 1305851

    2019 Sniper T, same front as 2020. Running a 125mm Reverb in that picture, and 80cm from center BB to top of saddle.
    Hi Ole,

    Would you mind sharing how the large fits with your height, I'm 5'9 on the dot and between sizes.
    Also looking to build up the sniper xc similarly to you, whats the weight of your bike,
    And are you running 2.4 sabers? how do they ride. thanks!

  12. #2412
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeskybiker7 View Post
    Hi Ole,

    Would you mind sharing how the large fits with your height, I'm 5'9 on the dot and between sizes.
    Also looking to build up the sniper xc similarly to you, whats the weight of your bike,
    And are you running 2.4 sabers? how do they ride. thanks!
    I am 189cm, or 6'2. I have always ran my Intenses in Large, way back from the first Tracer in '99. The Large Sniper fits me well with a 50mm stem, wouldn't want it any longer for the generally chunky terrain where I live. If I rode mainly faster more open trails, I might go longer. I also have a Large Primer 2020 with 35mm stem that fits med perfectly.

    I alternate between the Kenda Sabre 2.6 and Ikon 2.6. I find that the Sabre roll better and corner better, but the Ikon feel more robust. I run a Tubolight in the rear.

    Current weight with the DPX2 rear shock is 9.80kg/21.6lbs with pedals. Pretty good for a bike that can be ridden hard in the chunk, with a shock that doesn't fade.

  13. #2413
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,550
    I can't pin it down on any one quality of the bike, but my Sniper is the fastest bike I've ever ridden. I don't use Strava that often, but I've knocked out a few PRs and KOMs on mine this year. Climbing, descending and net-zero loops.

    In terms of a bike that can go up AND down at breakneck speeds, in a wide variety of terrain, the Sniper is unmatched.
    Death from Below.

  14. #2414
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I can't pin it down on any one quality of the bike, but my Sniper is the fastest bike I've ever ridden. I don't use Strava that often, but I've knocked out a few PRs and KOMs on mine this year. Climbing, descending and net-zero loops.

    In terms of a bike that can go up AND down at breakneck speeds, in a wide variety of terrain, the Sniper is unmatched.
    Agreed. It's been a couple months with the Sniper and I'm very happy. There's been one OMG moment on a steep descent with a drop in the middle when I'm sure the slack head tube angle and long top tube saved my bacon, and for the natural Appalachian trails I like (twisty, often rocky and rooty, lots of rolling ups and downs) it's ideal. Enough travel to deal with natural features, light enough for steep climbs, and really composed through fast twists and turns. I've cleanly ridden some rocky stuff I never tried on my BMC and in fact had decided were not (by me) rideable.

    I did cut the handlebar down as I got tired of literally hitting trees. We have some very narrow bits here. Never added a token to the fork, as I'm getting the travel and responsiveness I wanted already. The e thirteen wheels are very light, though I was surprised that I had to move the set screws going from the stock wheels to the carbon ones: the cassette sits a little farther in on the carbons.

    Very fun bike, and so incredibly fast in the woods.

  15. #2415
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,550
    I'm currently nursing a cracked carbon rear wheel until I get my new We Are One rims. Should be arriving any day now. I've been doing gravel rides or riding inside for the last week and a half. After that, I'll be building them up and will have two complete sets of wheels for my Sniper.

    Been pretty rough having to see everyone's big early summer rides while I slog away watching YouTube videos.
    Death from Below.

  16. #2416
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    5
    Looking for advice on sizing a Sniper T. I'm 5'10" with short 30" inseam. I'm worried the Large won't work with a 150mm dropper. My longer torso and arms really like the geo of the large. Anybody with 30" inseam on a large?

  17. #2417
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    663
    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Looking for advice on sizing a Sniper T. I'm 5'10" with short 30" inseam. I'm worried the Large won't work with a 150mm dropper. My longer torso and arms really like the geo of the large. Anybody with 30" inseam on a large?
    I am 5'8" with a 31" inseam. I am on a medium with maxed out 125mm dropper, really wish I had a 150mm dropper. I have sat and rode around on a large with the 150mm and it was not slammed to the collar and leg room felt good, it was just a hair too long of reach for me. If you get a Large and really want a 125mm dropper I'll trade you!

  18. #2418
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    I am 5'8" with a 31" inseam. I am on a medium with maxed out 125mm dropper, really wish I had a 150mm dropper. I have sat and rode around on a large with the 150mm and it was not slammed to the collar and leg room felt good, it was just a hair too long of reach for me. If you get a Large and really want a 125mm dropper I'll trade you!
    Thanks. I may take you up on that swap...will hopefully know in a few weeks.

  19. #2419
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Looking for advice on sizing a Sniper T. I'm 5'10" with short 30" inseam. I'm worried the Large won't work with a 150mm dropper. My longer torso and arms really like the geo of the large. Anybody with 30" inseam on a large?
    I'm 5'9" with a 31" inseam. Was also between a medium and large. In the end glad I went with the large. I will add a little anecdote here. My stock Lev 150 fit me perfectly. I had the post inserted all but about a mm and the height was perfect. The Lev crapped out on me and I replaced it with a 9point8 Fall Line R. Excuse me for not knowing all of the terminology but this post rides a little taller than the Lev and is maybe a hair longer than ideal when fully inserted. I know some other droppers have adjustable shims to adjust drop. Might be worth it for you.

  20. #2420
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,550
    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Looking for advice on sizing a Sniper T. I'm 5'10" with short 30" inseam. I'm worried the Large won't work with a 150mm dropper. My longer torso and arms really like the geo of the large. Anybody with 30" inseam on a large?
    Im a hair under 56, 31.5 inseam. Medium fits me perfectly. No way a guy of your proportions should be on a Medium, regardless of dropper fit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Death from Below.

  21. #2421
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    5
    Thanks everyone for the advice on sizing. I'll try to negotiate a 125mm dropper on the large. Getting amped for the new whip!

  22. #2422
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Thanks everyone for the advice on sizing. I'll try to negotiate a 125mm dropper on the large. Getting amped for the new whip!
    Some have mentioned previously but try the Oneup Dropper V2. I think it has the lowest stack height and can be shimmed down. Pretty reasonably priced too.

  23. #2423
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    830
    Quote Originally Posted by Nugz View Post
    Some have mentioned previously but try the Oneup Dropper V2. I think it has the lowest stack height and can be shimmed down. Pretty reasonably priced too.
    yes. good suggestion. but sucks to toss good parts on a new bike. all droppers should be adjustable imo

    would like to get this bike for my daughter who is 58 and still growing. large. but we havent even seen one due to covid.

  24. #2424
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    8,640
    Quote Originally Posted by Fuse6F View Post
    all droppers should be adjustable imo

    All cars should have had ABS and fuel injection in the 30s.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

  25. #2425
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    336
    I am on a 2019 SniperXC Expert Build with the brace installed and e13 XCX wheels. I love the bike. It is good handling, light, and suspension seems really well balanced. I can't really say enough good about it.

    I am however having issues with a popping or "creaking" noise, for lack of a better term, when I am out of saddle and powering up any of our short, steep, climbs here in SW Ohio.

    I went over all the pivot points with the included torque wrench and it may have helped some but I am still getting it.

    Any ideas what I could be experiencing?

  26. #2426
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,550
    Quote Originally Posted by jpelaston View Post
    I am on a 2019 SniperXC Expert Build with the brace installed and e13 XCX wheels. I love the bike. It is good handling, light, and suspension seems really well balanced. I can't really say enough good about it.

    I am however having issues with a popping or "creaking" noise, for lack of a better term, when I am out of saddle and powering up any of our short, steep, climbs here in SW Ohio.

    I went over all the pivot points with the included torque wrench and it may have helped some but I am still getting it.

    Any ideas what I could be experiencing?
    It's a long list:

    RD clutch
    freehub-cassette interface
    saddle rails
    pedals
    cranks
    RD-Hanger interface
    thru axle(s)
    bar-stem interface
    fork steerer-crown interface

    I've had annoying creaks in the past, on several bikes, and they've rarely been the actual frame itself.
    Death from Below.

  27. #2427
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    663
    Quote Originally Posted by jpelaston View Post
    I am on a 2019 SniperXC Expert Build with the brace installed and e13 XCX wheels. I love the bike. It is good handling, light, and suspension seems really well balanced. I can't really say enough good about it.

    I am however having issues with a popping or "creaking" noise, for lack of a better term, when I am out of saddle and powering up any of our short, steep, climbs here in SW Ohio.

    I went over all the pivot points with the included torque wrench and it may have helped some but I am still getting it.

    Any ideas what I could be experiencing?
    Since it is only happening out of the saddle we can rule out saddle rails (this is actually really common and annoying).

    As mentioned by Le Duke the list can be long.

    If you're out of the saddle you're probably up putting more pressure on the cockpit, check your headset and grease the bearings. Make sure your steer tube doesn't have any play in the headset. You may need to re-tighten the stem cap, make sure the stem cap is not bottoming out on the steer tube.

    Next I would pull the cranks and check the BB bearings, clean out old grease and add some new, same as the crank spindle.

    Last, and this is probably not it but good to do if you haven't recently, remove the lower link bolt for the rear triangle. remove the expander cone, then with an 8mm remove the link bolt. Clean it, give it a light greasing, and reinstall to torque.

  28. #2428
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    336
    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    It's a long list:

    RD clutch - Possibly but it is a new XT8100 with less than 100 miles on it so I am not sure this is it.
    freehub-cassette interface - I will for sure check this. Like the derailleur though, it is a new XT8100 cassette and was greased when installed
    saddle rails - I have rules this out as it only happens when I am out of the saddle and really putting power down on a hard climb
    pedals - Definitely not the pedals. They are older XT's but I recently cleaned, lubed and serviced them when I purchased the bike
    cranks - I wonder about this one. This is my first bike with pressed in BB and have thought about this a couple times. It doesn't sound or feel like its coming through there but the sounds may be traveling through the frame
    RD-Hanger interface - Possibly. Any way to check for this or any method to prevent this besides my putting a small bit of grease on the mech threads when I installed it?
    thru axle(s) - I wondered about this on my last ride and loosened and re-tightened the axle when we stopped at the top of a climb. Still had issues.
    bar-stem interface - I am definitely getting a creak occasionally from there when I am torquing on the bars while climbing. I can hear and feel this one.
    fork steerer-crown interfaceI suppose this is possible but the sound I am referring is distinctly from the rear.

    I've had annoying creaks in the past, on several bikes, and they've rarely been the actual frame itself.
    Thank You for the reply and suggestions. I will explore the items that I had not thought of. The whole bike is only a couple months old and has less than 300 miles on it. I have replaced the drivetrain except crankset with XT8100 due to personal preference. Were it getting more time or miles on it I wouldn't be as concerned and would attributie it to things being worn.

  29. #2429
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    336
    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    Since it is only happening out of the saddle we can rule out saddle rails (this is actually really common and annoying).

    As mentioned by Le Duke the list can be long.

    If you're out of the saddle you're probably up putting more pressure on the cockpit, check your headset and grease the bearings. Make sure your steer tube doesn't have any play in the headset. You may need to re-tighten the stem cap, make sure the stem cap is not bottoming out on the steer tube.

    Next I would pull the cranks and check the BB bearings, clean out old grease and add some new, same as the crank spindle.

    Last, and this is probably not it but good to do if you haven't recently, remove the lower link bolt for the rear triangle. remove the expander cone, then with an 8mm remove the link bolt. Clean it, give it a light greasing, and reinstall to torque.
    Thanks Fletch. I won't retype my reply above for you but I will explore the lower link as you mentioned. The rear and pivots all feel tight when I push/pull on the rear triangle but I know that's not always an accurate way to feel for things.

  30. #2430
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,203
    The two-part fastener that holds the front of the rear shock bottoms out on itself before it clamps the shock properly. You can grab the front of the shock and rock it from side to side. Either cut a couple mm off the bolt part of the fastener, or add a thin shim to either side of the shock.

  31. #2431
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    20
    So after 3 months and around 800 miles on the Sniper T Expert, I've gotten to know the bike inside out and am liking it more than ever. I've got the suspension dialed, I've upgraded the drivetrain and changed to my favorite saddle, I've gone through my first tune up and suspension service so it literally feels better than new. This thing loves to cover ground, fast. Up, across, down... doesn't matter.

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Is anyone else having these kinds of problems, or done similar changes to the bike? Any advice or comments on changes to forward-offset post, shorter stem, or narrower bars? In terms of the stem specifically, this is my first "modern geo" bike and it feels so stable and predictable, I don't really know how shortening it will affect handling; if it wasn't for the fit issue I'd be inclined to leave good enough alone. Some folks online say that going below 40mm or so on the stem can do really strange things to steering feel...

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers

  32. #2432
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    5
    Anyone put a Hollowgram SiSL2 crank on a Sniper T? I'm thinking of moving one over from my PF30 Scalpel. Guessing I'll just need a new BB and maybe a chainring with a 3mm offset.

  33. #2433
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,550
    Quote Originally Posted by ShishBoom View Post
    Anyone put a Hollowgram SiSL2 crank on a Sniper T? I'm thinking of moving one over from my PF30 Scalpel. Guessing I'll just need a new BB and maybe a chainring with a 3mm offset.
    I am. Running mine with a Cane Creek Hellbender Neo (SKF MTRX solid oil) BB. Works great.

    Re: chainring, I cant tell you. Running mine with an SRM spider and 104BCD WT ring.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Death from Below.

  34. #2434
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I am. Running mine with a Cane Creek Hellbender Neo (SKF MTRX solid oil) BB. Works great.

    Re: chainring, I cant tell you. Running mine with an SRM spider and 104BCD WT ring.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks Le Duke! That's great to hear. Now to find some lighter wheels...

  35. #2435
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    424
    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So after 3 months and around 800 miles on the Sniper T Expert, I've gotten to know the bike inside out and am liking it more than ever. I've got the suspension dialed, I've upgraded the drivetrain and changed to my favorite saddle, I've gone through my first tune up and suspension service so it literally feels better than new. This thing loves to cover ground, fast. Up, across, down... doesn't matter.

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Is anyone else having these kinds of problems, or done similar changes to the bike? Any advice or comments on changes to forward-offset post, shorter stem, or narrower bars? In terms of the stem specifically, this is my first "modern geo" bike and it feels so stable and predictable, I don't really know how shortening it will affect handling; if it wasn't for the fit issue I'd be inclined to leave good enough alone. Some folks online say that going below 40mm or so on the stem can do really strange things to steering feel...

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers
    Had the same issue with my medium. I'm 5'8 w/30" inseam and felt a bit stretched out with 50mm stem. Seat pushed forward which helped but then swapped to a 40mm stem and that did the trick. No adverse effects on handling. I do like a high stack height and sit more upright, can't do the bars below the seat bent over riding position. Bar width is 780mm.

    I'd suggest trying a 40mm stem first before cutting bars, etc. Simple thing to try that might solve the issue.

  36. #2436
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    424
    Been meaning to share this with all the discussion about shocks. The factory DPS on my Trail took a crap a while back and found options limited for replacement. Really a FOX DPS or DPX2 are the only options.

    To me a DPS is not worth rebuilding and didn't want to cough up for a DPX2 right now so found a new take off DPS from a Giant Trance on Ebay for cheap. Has the same tune and volume spacer size, it's just 42.5mm stroke. 5 minutes unscrewing the air can and snipping out the 2.5mm travel reducer turned it into a 45mm stroke shock. Works great and even has a red decal that matches the digital camo frame.

    Wanted to share this option in case anyone is in the same boat. Probably pick up another one for when this one dies eventually....
    Last edited by gasmanxj; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:51 AM.

  37. #2437
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    209
    What is your saddle height (center of bb to top of saddle)?

    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So after 3 months and around 800 miles on the Sniper T Expert, I've gotten to know the bike inside out and am liking it more than ever. I've got the suspension dialed, I've upgraded the drivetrain and changed to my favorite saddle, I've gone through my first tune up and suspension service so it literally feels better than new. This thing loves to cover ground, fast. Up, across, down... doesn't matter.

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Is anyone else having these kinds of problems, or done similar changes to the bike? Any advice or comments on changes to forward-offset post, shorter stem, or narrower bars? In terms of the stem specifically, this is my first "modern geo" bike and it feels so stable and predictable, I don't really know how shortening it will affect handling; if it wasn't for the fit issue I'd be inclined to leave good enough alone. Some folks online say that going below 40mm or so on the stem can do really strange things to steering feel...

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers

  38. #2438
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    20
    I've been experimenting on this too, currently running about 795mm but have run 10mm or even 15mm higher in the past. Having my saddle slightly lower seems to help the whole "reach is too long" problem, though it probably creates other problems too...

    FYI My inseam is about 890mm

  39. #2439
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    531
    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers
    I am 6'1" 33" inseam. I am on a Large and I feel it fits me perfectly. I haven't done a marathon ride on it yet, but a few 3-5 hour rides. No issues.

    Sounds like the bike is too big. Try shortening the stem. This will affect handling a bit, but my guess is you will adapt. Look at the geo numbers from the large and then try to match them with stem length.

    Also just to nitpick, I am guessing you are saying that the Effective Top Tube is too long. Reach is from the BB to the head tube and is really only a measurement that is in play when out of the saddle. You could have much more reach on the Sniper and it would feel fine.

  40. #2440
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    531
    Quote Originally Posted by gasmanxj View Post
    Been meaning to share this with all the discussion about shocks. The factory DPS on my Trail took a crap a while back and found options limited for replacement. Really a FOX DPS or DPX2 are the only options.

    To me a DPS is not worth rebuilding and didn't want to cough up for a DPX2 right now so found a new take off DPS from a Giant Anthem on Ebay for cheap. Has the same tune and volume spacer size, it's just 42.5mm stroke. 5 minutes unscrewing the air can and snipping out the 2.5mm travel reducer turned it into a 45mm stroke shock. Works great and even has a red decal that matches the digital camo frame.

    Wanted to share this option in case anyone is in the same boat. Probably pick up another one for when this one dies eventually....
    Nice find!
    Also I know Ole says he likes his DPX2, but I had about an hour long convo with Craig @ Avalanche and he said the DPX2 is not a good shock for the Sniper and there wouldn't even be a way for him to tune it to make it decent with the bike. Strongly recommended to send in the DPS to get tuned, which I am doing. Sold the DPX2 after 3 rides on it.

  41. #2441
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    424
    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Nice find!
    Also I know Ole says he likes his DPX2, but I had about an hour long convo with Craig @ Avalanche and he said the DPX2 is not a good shock for the Sniper and there wouldn't even be a way for him to tune it to make it decent with the bike. Strongly recommended to send in the DPS to get tuned, which I am doing. Sold the DPX2 after 3 rides on it.
    I actually tried a DVO Topaz first but doesn't fit with the cross brace which I wasn't willing to give up. Tune code for shock I got is DKMC. Here's the specs below, match up identical to the stock trail shock other than the shorter stroke.

    Intense Sniper-2020-06-19_8-38-58.jpg

  42. #2442
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    20
    Yeah, that makes sense and I'd thought of this solution too. It would put me on one of those super-short 31mm or 32mm stems, which is just about as short as you can easily find them from many different brands. My only concern is how that will impact handling, since such a short stem would put my hands very close indeed to the steering axis, given sweep back angles on handlebars etc. And that can do kooky things to handling, apparently.

    Thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    I am 6'1" 33" inseam. I am on a Large and I feel it fits me perfectly. I haven't done a marathon ride on it yet, but a few 3-5 hour rides. No issues.

    Sounds like the bike is too big. Try shortening the stem. This will affect handling a bit, but my guess is you will adapt. Look at the geo numbers from the large and then try to match them with stem length.

    Also just to nitpick, I am guessing you are saying that the Effective Top Tube is too long. Reach is from the BB to the head tube and is really only a measurement that is in play when out of the saddle. You could have much more reach on the Sniper and it would feel fine.

  43. #2443
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    531
    Yeah but a 35mm stem is a relatively cheap test and possible fix. I consider stems to be like saddles. Good chance I am going to swap them

  44. #2444
    mtbr member
    Reputation: johnnyboy.ca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    72
    Re: Creaking. Most likely BB cups. I have to pop mine out and grease them a couple times a year.
    www.johnnyboy.ca

    .:grupettolife.com: mtbrealtors.com:.

  45. #2445
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    663
    Quote Originally Posted by gasmanxj View Post
    Had the same issue with my medium. I'm 5'8 w/30" inseam and felt a bit stretched out with 50mm stem. Seat pushed forward which helped but then swapped to a 40mm stem and that did the trick. No adverse effects on handling. I do like a high stack height and sit more upright, can't do the bars below the seat bent over riding position. Bar width is 780mm.

    I'd suggest trying a 40mm stem first before cutting bars, etc. Simple thing to try that might solve the issue.
    Definitely recommend trying a different stem length first. I'm similar to gasmanxj at 5'8" on a medium but I actually needed a little more reach and put on a 55mm stem and it's perfect. Since you're on a Sniper T with a little slacker Headtube angle than the XC, any stack height adjustments will also bring the bars closer or farther from you.

  46. #2446
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Leyenda View Post
    So after 3 months and around 800 miles on the Sniper T Expert, I've gotten to know the bike inside out and am liking it more than ever. I've got the suspension dialed, I've upgraded the drivetrain and changed to my favorite saddle, I've gone through my first tune up and suspension service so it literally feels better than new. This thing loves to cover ground, fast. Up, across, down... doesn't matter.

    The only thing that's (slightly) bothering me is the fit. I'm 6'2" and on an XL, and it feels like I'm at the very limit in terms of size, specifically reach; the bike simply feels (slightly) too long. For rides up to 1.5 or even 2 hours it's fine, but after 2 hours I start to get pain in my neck and shoulders and sometimes my lower back, too.

    I'm running the saddle slammed as far forward as I can, even slightly past the manufacturer's recommended setting, and that does help. But I'm thinking of buying a new dropper with an offset-forward saddle clamp, just to gain another inch or so. (Of course the big limiting factor here is the knee angle when pedaling, but I feel I haven't reached that yet). I'm running the stock 50mm stem and 780mm bars, and am thinking of shortening both for the same reason; perhaps go to 750 or 760 on the bars, and 35mm or 40mm on the stem.

    Is anyone else having these kinds of problems, or done similar changes to the bike? Any advice or comments on changes to forward-offset post, shorter stem, or narrower bars? In terms of the stem specifically, this is my first "modern geo" bike and it feels so stable and predictable, I don't really know how shortening it will affect handling; if it wasn't for the fit issue I'd be inclined to leave good enough alone. Some folks online say that going below 40mm or so on the stem can do really strange things to steering feel...

    Any advice is appreciated, even if you can just tell me your height, bike size, and stem length / handlebar width you are running.

    Cheers
    On my Primer which is setup very XC, I chose a Large. I am just over 6'2", with a 34" inseam, and the Large Primer was slightly too tight. I switched out the stem for a Syntace Flat-force 66mm, changed to a 740mm bar, and it is now feels perfect having slightly increased my reach. It is possible you too are kinda in the middle sizing wise. I suspect your Sniper has more reach and ETT length than my 2017 Primer (older version) does. I think you can tweak it to get you where you want to go and be super happy with your sizing choice.
    Last edited by trmn8er; 1 Week Ago at 08:19 PM.

  47. #2447
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,550
    The recent responses in the thread show how unique and individual bike fit is.

    I'm 5'5", 31.5" inseam, riding a M. No spacers under a Syntace Flatforce 66mm stem, 740mm bars.

    If anything, I want to go longer in the stem.
    Death from Below.

  48. #2448
    mtbr member
    Reputation: johnnyboy.ca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    72
    Too long to search, but what is the reach difference between the XC and Trail? They post the same number on the website but the Trail has to be a little shorter. Do we know by how much?
    www.johnnyboy.ca

    .:grupettolife.com: mtbrealtors.com:.

  49. #2449
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    1
    This may be a silly question, but I am in the early stages of educating myself on all things regarding MTB maintenance; how does one go about removing a stripped out bolt?
    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Agree with everything you said (minus the headset, knock on wood). I even called Intense and asked if I could get two trunnion bolts and they said they could only sell me the entire linkage pack for $50. I have one stripped bolt. It's not worth $50.

  50. #2450
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,550
    Quote Originally Posted by LLcoolG View Post
    This may be a silly question, but I am in the early stages of educating myself on all things regarding MTB maintenance; how does one go about removing a stripped out bolt?
    Thanks
    Google "screw extractor set".
    Death from Below.

  51. #2451
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    531
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/speedout-8-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I just bought and used this and it worked to get an extremely tight truck bed tie down bolt out.

    You can also try the rubber band method since it is free and bike bolts are pretty low torque

    Google the rubber band method

    If nothing else works then you pay someone to weld a nut on the end

  52. #2452
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,550
    Just got my WAO Revives in. Rear wheel is assembled, still need to true and tension.

    Should add to an already great ride.
    Death from Below.

  53. #2453
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    1
    Hi guys, quick question.... My Sniper Trail (2019) is driving me crazy with a creak that occurs when pedaling under load whether seated or standing. I've hit all the regular spots so far: derailleur hanger, rear axle, seatpost, seat rails and clamp, pedals, stem, headset, checked all the torque settings on bushings, etc.... And still creaking. I have the cross brace, but I have noticed that if I grab the top tupe or seatpost with one hand, and the top of the rear tire in the other - I can recreate the sound by pushing/pulling the tire back and forth. Seems to be coming from either the top or bottom link. There still seems to be a little play in the rear end of the bike despite the brace. Do you think I have a bearing issue or problem with one of the links?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Page 13 of 13 FirstFirst ... 3910111213

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-07-2016, 09:20 AM
  2. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-06-2016, 05:29 PM
  3. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-06-2016, 03:26 PM
  4. American Sniper
    By Crankout in forum Off Camber (off topic)
    Replies: 139
    Last Post: 02-05-2015, 03:27 PM
  5. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-18-2013, 01:59 AM

Members who have read this thread: 379

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.