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  1. #1801
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7mm josh View Post
    Hmm I have just finished a ride and my top link mod seems to be holding up fine but I noticed some flex, it now appears to be coming from lower link, checked all torque settings, removed re greased it re torqued and no good, perhaps when the top link bearing start shifting it puts too much load on the lower link and slightly off axis to the linkage which looks like it has caused some wear to the rear most lower linkage. Looks like Iím going to need a replacement.
    What is your top link mod? Did you make a brace?

  2. #1802
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtstj View Post
    What is your top link mod? Did you make a brace?
    Hi, I removed material from the inside bearing spacers, This moves the outer race of the bearing inward toward the shoulder inside the linkage itself so the bearing cannot move sideways inside the linkage even without the retaining compound. I just took off a little at a time and kept re installing until there was minimal sideways movement, you have to be careful not to go too far otherwise you will preload the bearing with axial thrust and potentially prematurely wear the bearing. I settled on removing 0.48mm, 0.45 might be ok too. The only negative i can see is that this also reduces the clearance between the two tabs that come off each side of the seat stay and join the linkage, so potentially could cause some noise if debris was to get in there, i have not heard anything yet however. The brace might be better as it will retain the clearances, i just needed a solution to keep riding in the mean time.

  3. #1803
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtstj View Post

    Thanks for all the information here on the Sniper. I was all built up to get one until I got into this thread. At least a brace is coming???? I hope. I went ahead and purchased ASSUMING it will be produced. A little worried. Iím 160-165lbs so hoping my weight will be fine but want to be precautionary on this. Hoping for a great ride. Itís a lot of dough.
    I'm 170lbs and have definitely pushed my sniper to it's limits on some rowdy trails here in SoCal. Some flex in the rear but nothing horrible. I'm sure adding the brace will help me ride it even harder with less worry. At your weight I wouldn't worry about it too much. It's an awesome bike.

  4. #1804
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7mm josh View Post
    Hi, I removed material from the inside bearing spacers, This moves the outer race of the bearing inward toward the shoulder inside the linkage itself so the bearing cannot move sideways inside the linkage even without the retaining compound. I just took off a little at a time and kept re installing until there was minimal sideways movement, you have to be careful not to go too far otherwise you will preload the bearing with axial thrust and potentially prematurely wear the bearing. I settled on removing 0.48mm, 0.45 might be ok too. The only negative i can see is that this also reduces the clearance between the two tabs that come off each side of the seat stay and join the linkage, so potentially could cause some noise if debris was to get in there, i have not heard anything yet however. The brace might be better as it will retain the clearances, i just needed a solution to keep riding in the mean time.
    That's a great solution. The wider bearing is similar in theory. I will definitely look at this. I purchased the $35 brace and it should be here next week. The bike comes in on Monday. I'm a preventative guy. I'll ride it without the brace if the brace does not arrive tomorrow too, but when it arrives I'll definitely be installing it. Might not be a bad idea to take off some material inside the bearing spacers too. This might be a two-fold final solution. Thanks for sharing. Only question I have is how you took the material off. I apologize, this is all new to me. I work on Jeeps mechanically and suspension, but not on bikes, but now I am very interested, so a new hobby has sprung and I'm soaking up the good knowledge on here. I have grinding wheels, etc... to work off material, but sometimes it comes too fast.

  5. #1805
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaffas84 View Post
    I'm 170lbs and have definitely pushed my sniper to it's limits on some rowdy trails here in SoCal. Some flex in the rear but nothing horrible. I'm sure adding the brace will help me ride it even harder with less worry. At your weight I wouldn't worry about it too much. It's an awesome bike.
    I can't wait! Totally pumped. Bike arrives tomorrow. Super light, super good climber, handles some mild downhill. Should be a winner. I'm looking to gain some new skills and confidence. Never ridden anything but a hardtail.

  6. #1806
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtstj View Post
    That's a great solution. The wider bearing is similar in theory. I will definitely look at this. I purchased the $35 brace and it should be here next week. The bike comes in on Monday. I'm a preventative guy. I'll ride it without the brace if the brace does not arrive tomorrow too, but when it arrives I'll definitely be installing it. Might not be a bad idea to take off some material inside the bearing spacers too. This might be a two-fold final solution. Thanks for sharing. Only question I have is how you took the material off. I apologize, this is all new to me. I work on Jeeps mechanically and suspension, but not on bikes, but now I am very interested, so a new hobby has sprung and I'm soaking up the good knowledge on here. I have grinding wheels, etc... to work off material, but sometimes it comes too fast.
    Good to see yours arrives soon, yea i think you will be fine with the brace, the bikes are great its just this small issue with the rear linkage is my only complaint. There are not many bikes you can KOM up a hill and then KOM down the other side and the sniper fits this bill as long as its not too rocky going down.
    I removed the material with a large sharpening stone just applying pressure with my finger and a figure 8 pattern to keep it nice and flat.
    Id just stick with the brace to start with as there are no potential downsides as far as i can tell. If there are problems in the future maybe you could do this.

  7. #1807
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    I just did 103km in an 8 Hour XC endurance race on Saturday. Rode the bike as hard as I could for 8 hours straight in sandy/dusty conditions. The bike was flawless. I'm running the top link brace I made and everything on the bike is still tight and play free. Only thing was a slight creak that developed in the BB but I think a quick rebuild down there will make everything super quiet again. The bike is a blast to race with.
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  8. #1808
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    Brace in today!

    Got the brace in today. I would've liked to have taken it for a spin, but unfortunately the rear shock is with Fox for a 2nd warranty replacement. Later this week though, looking forward to it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Intense Sniper-sniper_brace.jpg  


  9. #1809
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    that's a really nice piece.

  10. #1810
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyboy.ca View Post
    My build up so far:

    Sniper Trail SL 120mm
    Fox Step Cast 34 120mm
    Bar: Enve M6 31.8 x 770mm
    Stem: Enve 55mm
    Grips: ESI
    HS: Chris King
    Brakes: Sram Level Ultimate 180/160
    Drivetrain: Eagle XX1 (AXS coming)
    Crankset: Rotor INPower 170mm
    CR: Rotor Oval 34T
    BB: Rotor Ceramic
    Pedals: XTR
    Seatpost: Enve
    Seat: WTB Volt carbon
    Wheelset: Enve M525
    Tires: 2.25 Nobby Nick
    Oi bell
    Lezyne Micro C GPS
    Misc Ti Bolts
    Seat stay brace
    23lb 5oz
    I'm also putting together a 120mm trail build with an Eagle AXS drivetrain, I was just wondering how you handled the cable routing under the bottom bracket?

    Intense provides a little spacer to put between the rear brake and derailleur cables to keep a ~38mm cable loop under the bottom bracket but not sure the best way to keep everything secure without the second (derailleur) cable to tie off to...

    Additionally, did you find anything (rubber grommets or the like) or come up with a good solution to plug the unused holes for the internal cable routing? I guess I could leave them open but I'd like to keep any excess water and stuff out.
    Last edited by TDKn; 09-25-2019 at 06:30 PM.

  11. #1811
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDKn View Post
    I'm also putting together a 120mm trail build with an Eagle AXS drivetrain, I was just wondering how you handled the cable routing under the bottom bracket?

    Intense provides a little spacer to put between the rear brake and derailleur cables to keep a ~38mm cable loop under the bottom bracket but not sure the best way to keep everything secure without the second (derailleur) cable to tie off to...

    Additionally, did you find anything (rubber grommets or the like) or come up with a good solution to plug the unused holes for the internal cable routing? I guess I could leave them open but I'd like to keep any excess water and stuff out.
    Intense Sniper-img_3015.jpg

    Didn't do anything under the BB currently, but was thinking of running some heat shrink tubing maybe. Dunno yet. Might even look at some wax in the two holes.

    As for the open unused holes, I used some scrap pieces of vinyl to cover them up (see pic).
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  12. #1812
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    Got my Intense on Monday. Woohoo! It's a Medium size
    Intense Sniper-bp-o6vcxsvmkseoa5mn-la.jpg
    Dropper post about 20mm too long. That's a little frustrating, makes me think I should have gone with a Small, but none are available, so oh, well. I can adjust some components (i.e. drop more $$$) and get it right. Seller offered a Fox Transfer 100mm dropper at wholesale ($200). The bike comes with a very nice torque wrench and tools, a decent shock pump and a really nice box.
    Intense Sniper-7sphwhfbrs6o6d6z5srs%25.jpg
    We converted it to Tubeless, set the fork sag to 15-20% and the shock to 25-30%, set rebound, added clipless pedals and went for a 13 mile ride. I didn't use all my front travel so I altered the psi slightly.
    Intense Sniper-ipskaknoqsks59dpwsdbyw.jpg.
    Bike feels solid. Quick on the flats and descents, decent on short hills, more cumbersome on long climbs, but overall effective. I love this bike. Doesn't come in at the advertised 26 lbs 4 oz, even when I converted to Tubeless, I expected it to come out with my pedals around 26 lb 14 oz, but it looks more like 28 lbs. Here she is in all her glory...

  13. #1813
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyboy.ca View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3015.jpg 
Views:	92 
Size:	165.2 KB 
ID:	1282105

    Didn't do anything under the BB currently, but was thinking of running some heat shrink tubing maybe. Dunno yet. Might even look at some wax in the two holes.

    As for the open unused holes, I used some scrap pieces of vinyl to cover them up (see pic).
    The vinyl over the holes is a really nice simple solution and looks good too. I think I may do something similar, thanks for the suggestion.

    I might try to make a sort of grommet out of Sugru for the hose to keep it snug where it exits the internal guide at the bottom bracket.

  14. #1814
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyboy.ca View Post
    I just did 103km in an 8 Hour XC endurance race on Saturday. Rode the bike as hard as I could for 8 hours straight in sandy/dusty conditions. The bike was flawless. I'm running the top link brace I made and everything on the bike is still tight and play free. Only thing was a slight creak that developed in the BB but I think a quick rebuild down there will make everything super quiet again. The bike is a blast to race with.
    Was that the Reggie Ramble?

    My Sniper serves me well. It's a great XC bike and stood up well at the pointy end of some races. I suspect it'll be amazing for XCM next year. I do get some BB noises, but that's press fit for you. Otherwise it's really nice.
    Show me your Toads. Old Brodies, too.

  15. #1815
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    Yeah, bb was noise free for the whole season almost. I didnít have any retaining compound for the bb cups. I popped the cups out, cleaned and put some anti seize paste and itís silent again.

  16. #1816
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    On the Sniper Trail Elite/Pro builds, what's the custom tune ID number on the FOX Factory DPS shock?

  17. #1817
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    Quote Originally Posted by dindin View Post
    On the Sniper Trail Elite/Pro builds, what's the custom tune ID number on the FOX Factory DPS shock?
    I'm not clear on your question. What are the custom tune IDs, in general, or what is the specific custom tune on your shock? Are you familiar with going to Fox's website and looking the code up? It will tell you everything that is inside the shock or fork.
    https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.p...ke&ref=bc_help

  18. #1818
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    I have the SniperXC that I raced all summer and now would like to purchase a 120mm shock/fork. I'm looking for the specific custom tune ID that is on the 2019 Fox Factory DPS shock that is used on the Sniper Trail Elite/Pro build.

  19. #1819
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    That info was provided earlier in this thread.

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  20. #1820
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    I came across this tune ID DJNJ on a picture and in the tread. However, Fox's website says it's for a 2018 Performance Elite Series FLOAT TRUNNION.

  21. #1821
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    DJNK is the code on my trail shock.

  22. #1822
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    That code says it's a 2018 Factory Series FLOAT TRUNNION. I was looking for the 2019 code. I would think it would be the same config. I'm trying to confirm whether the 2019 Factory trail shock is using the EVOL LV or EVOL SV air sleeve.

  23. #1823
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole View Post
    Having never in my 25 years of riding full suspension bikes gotten along with air inline shocks due to poor heat management, I bought a DPX2 from Ebay, tuned for an Evil The Following. Right out of the box, the shock felt right. The rebound adjustment is subtler and doesn't affect compression, the open compression setting (which is where I do most of my riding) has 10 steps of low speed comp, and the shock just feels plusher and more composed. The extra oil volume (the damper body is all oil, no IFP at the end, plus oil circulates into the piggyback) and extra material that the oil is circulating through, means hugely improved consistency. With the stock DPS shock, it only takes me 5 minutes of hard charging before the shock heats up so much that I have to adjust the rebound and let out some air of the shock. My work-around was to adjust the shock when hot, and then just live with an over-damped, under sprung shock when riding slow rides. But with the DPX2, the shock got barely luke warm after long downhill runs! No need to adjust anything!

    The only negative is that it weighs 398g, versus 239g for the original DPS. In my book, that is worth it on the Trail model.
    Did this affect the use of the water bottle?

  24. #1824
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    Does anyone know if we use 1 or two spacers per side when installing the cross brace?

  25. #1825
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    When I was trying to install the cross brace I just used the same equipment that was stock on the bike. No additional spacers come with the brace

  26. #1826
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    For anyone who has routed the cables through the frame are there guides internally or is it a fun way to spend an hour cursing?

  27. #1827
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdaddyg2006 View Post
    Does anyone know if we use 1 or two spacers per side when installing the cross brace?
    You use all 4 spacers

  28. #1828
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    For anyone who has routed the cables through the frame are there guides internally or is it a fun way to spend an hour cursing?
    The Sniper uses all internally routed cable guides. Really easy to route brake, shifter, dropper.

  29. #1829
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    Tie 3ft of dental floss around cable housing. Suck floss down with vacuum.

    Problem solved.


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  30. #1830
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Tie 3ft of dental floss around cable housing. Suck floss down with vacuum.

    Problem solved.


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    Dats a good idear!

  31. #1831
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    But I don't floss

  32. #1832
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    Does anyone know if Intense is launching a new Sniper for 2020 or a new frame color way?

  33. #1833
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaron6614 View Post
    Does anyone know if Intense is launching a new Sniper for 2020 or a new frame color way?
    A post from 'creativefletch' a few weeks ago.
    "To clarify on that last post. We will also have a 2020 Sniper XC coming out, it will continue with the same frame as current with new paint and spec updates. The Sniper in trail configuration will have some frame modifications for more aggressive riders and terrain."

  34. #1834
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    Launch of 2020 is still a couple months out.

  35. #1835
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    Please make the trail in the same blue as the Primer 27.5.

  36. #1836
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    Quote Originally Posted by Windband View Post
    A post from 'creativefletch' a few weeks ago.
    "To clarify on that last post. We will also have a 2020 Sniper XC coming out, it will continue with the same frame as current with new paint and spec updates. The Sniper in trail configuration will have some frame modifications for more aggressive riders and terrain."
    I'm REALLY curious about what these updates (and how substantial they are) will look like, and how much it changes the character of the Trail model. I'm in the market for a new frame to replace my current FS, and the current Sniper Trail was at the top of the list for me--its back and forth between and Fezzari Signal Peak--ugh that name. I love the idea of a slack, light, 120mm frame, with 2 internal bottles cages--love that PNW mud all year long. That's all I need with my skill set, honestly.

    I'd sell a kidney if the updates included more stack in the XL, shortened seatpost, and a threaded BB... I won't have the money until Jan/Feb for my new frame, but if the new version checks off many of my personal desires--especially if something like the red/digital camo options sticks around, I might have to find a way to make something happen so I don't miss out and have to wait on a potential restock.

  37. #1837
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    It's most likely going to be a new triangle with some linkage changes and exactly same front triangle. New colors.

  38. #1838
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    Launch of 2020 is still a couple months out.
    Sweeeeet! I can't wait!

  39. #1839
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    Quote Originally Posted by padrefan1982 View Post
    I'm REALLY curious about what these updates (and how substantial they are) will look like, and how much it changes the character of the Trail model. I'm in the market for a new frame to replace my current FS, and the current Sniper Trail was at the top of the list for me--its back and forth between and Fezzari Signal Peak--ugh that name. I love the idea of a slack, light, 120mm frame, with 2 internal bottles cages--love that PNW mud all year long. That's all I need with my skill set, honestly.

    I'd sell a kidney if the updates included more stack in the XL, shortened seatpost, and a threaded BB... I won't have the money until Jan/Feb for my new frame, but if the new version checks off many of my personal desires--especially if something like the red/digital camo options sticks around, I might have to find a way to make something happen so I don't miss out and have to wait on a potential restock.
    If you need all of that to buy, I wouldn't bother waiting. Molds cost around 60k. As posted above I highly doubt the front triangle is going to change other than colors. The rear triangle is going to be beefed for the trail- that's it. I just can't see them investing in new molds for the front triangle after a year.
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  40. #1840
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    Sniper FML

    Please excuse venting to follow:

    Got the final version of the Sniper cross brace in, and went to install it. In doing so, I noticed some pretty stiff movement from the lower link. Upon further investigation, both bearings connecting RT to lower link are totally seized, which has led to a bunch of wear on the lower pivot axle, as the bearings were rotating on the axle rather than actually rotating. Also during this process, a bearing fell right out of the upper link (as has happened before).

    At this point, my list of issues with the Sniper in one year is:
    -Upper link bearings get loose, new upper link sent.
    -Upper link bearings get loose again, new upper link sent again.
    -Shock trunnion bolt head shears off, new one sent.
    -Der. hanger nut backs out; amazingly I noticed this and was able to limp home, but ride ruined.
    -Upper link bearings get loose again, new upper link plus prototype of brace sent.
    -Lower link play, new lower link spacers sent.
    -Prototype brace loses one of its shoulder bolts; final version of brace sent.
    -While changing it, discover lower link bearings seized.
    -Also, bearing falls out of upper link, ďpress fitĒ at that location is a joke.

    At this point, Iím just super frustrated with this machine. Itís been hanging from the work stand for about as many weeks as itís been rideable in the year Iíve had it. Iíve been building and working on bikes for 15 years, and donít think Iíve had as many issues with frame components, linkages etc. in all the other bikes Iíve owned combined.

    I always use torque wrenches, and I know what Iím doing. Iíve owned a Ripmo during this same period, itís seen much more use (itís had to, with the Sniper out of commission all the time) including trips to Whistler and plenty of PNW mud, and the Ripmo has had zero issues.

    Intense has sent me new parts when mine have gone bad. But my god, how many times have I had to contact them? Every time itís a week or two without a bike, waiting on some damn bolt or bearing or spacer. I honestly think the design of this linkage has been bad from the start, and Iím super frustrated.

    At this point, Iím seriously considering just getting a Blur.

  41. #1841
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    ripmo is pretty solid. those lower bushings put me off at first, but have been much more durable than the old primer bearings.

    that sounds like a really bad time. has Intense offered you any sort of goodwill for this apparent lemon?

  42. #1842
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Please excuse venting to follow:

    At this point, my list of issues with the Sniper in one year is:
    -Upper link bearings get loose, new upper link sent.
    -Upper link bearings get loose again, new upper link sent again.
    -Shock trunnion bolt head shears off, new one sent.
    -Der. hanger nut backs out; amazingly I noticed this and was able to limp home, but ride ruined.
    -Upper link bearings get loose again, new upper link plus prototype of brace sent.
    -Lower link play, new lower link spacers sent.
    -Prototype brace loses one of its shoulder bolts; final version of brace sent.
    -While changing it, discover lower link bearings seized.
    -Also, bearing falls out of upper link, ďpress fitĒ at that location is a joke.
    Iíve experienced exactly the same issues as you did, except I sold the bike way before the brace was announced. 2nd replacement upper link bearing became loose after first ride. I also remember being very surprised how bad the original lower link bearings felt when I was replacing that link.

  43. #1843
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post

    At this point, Iím seriously considering just getting a Blur.
    Well then you better like play in the shock bolts. knock knock.

    Get an OIZ. Much better than the Blur.

    And just so you know, I've had 2 new Epics, a Blur, and the OIZ.
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  44. #1844
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    Well then you better like play in the shock bolts. knock knock.

    Get an OIZ. Much better than the Blur.

    And just so you know, I've had 2 new Epics, a Blur, and the OIZ.
    Good info, appreciate it. I was under the impression that the Blur was solid; Riding/messing with one, itís definitely the stiffest and most robust XC bike Iíve tried.

    SB100 fits the bill but also has a bunch of issues.

    Mach4 SL fits the bill but Iím not convinced by the design, bearings pressed directly into carbon frame seems like a potential problem...

    Honestly Iíd really like a bike that will just fíing work week in and week out, even if ridden in PNW mud.

  45. #1845
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Good info, appreciate it. I was under the impression that the Blur was solid; Riding/messing with one, itís definitely the stiffest and most robust XC bike Iíve tried.

    SB100 fits the bill but also has a bunch of issues.

    Mach4 SL fits the bill but Iím not convinced by the design, bearings pressed directly into carbon frame seems like a potential problem...

    Honestly Iíd really like a bike that will just fíing work week in and week out, even if ridden in PNW mud.
    Get a Scott Spark or Scale! Those are the best XC bikes. Just saying!

  46. #1846
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    that sounds like a really bad time. has Intense offered you any sort of goodwill for this apparent lemon?
    No. Intense has sent me new parts when I've contacted them, so that's good.

    But it's actually been frustrating (as documented on this thread) that they seem shocked every time the upper link bearings get loose. I actually ended up getting the prototype brace because when I contacted them with the same issue in the 3rd upper link, they wanted to send me a 4th. I was like, "C'mon guys, these things are lasting a week on average."

  47. #1847
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    Drew,

    What is the feeling of a loose upper link bearing? Are you getting lateral play? Just curious.

    I will say that Intense's customer service has been great contrary to what some others have said.

    That being said, I went to put in the factory cross brace and found out that one of the rear triangle inset nuts had been cross threaded or something because I could not get the new cross brace bolt to thread in.

    Intense Immediately sent me a new rear triangle and I got it all fixed up yesterday.

    I hope my experience isn't that of Drewbird and that my links last especially with the new brace. Bike feels stiff and great. We will see how it lasts next race season.

  48. #1848
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Drew,

    What is the feeling of a loose upper link bearing? Are you getting lateral play? Just curious.

    I will say that Intense's customer service has been great contrary to what some others have said.

    That being said, I went to put in the factory cross brace and found out that one of the rear triangle inset nuts had been cross threaded or something because I could not get the new cross brace bolt to thread in.

    Intense Immediately sent me a new rear triangle and I got it all fixed up yesterday.

    I hope my experience isn't that of Drewbird and that my links last especially with the new brace. Bike feels stiff and great. We will see how it lasts next race season.
    The way to diagnose a loose upper link bearing is to test for lateral play in the seat stay/upper link junction. Grab your seat stay and see if you can move it side-to-side at the link. If it moves 1-2mm, that's your bearing shifting back and forth in its well. That will lead to tons of rear end flex when pedaling.

    Once you install the brace this becomes a moot point, as the tops of the stays are mechanically captured by the brace. A loose bearing no longer matters with brace installed.

    In general I suspect that the overall looseness of the original Sniper linkage (sans brace) was a problem for durability throughout the linkage. The amount of flex I was observing had to be placing a bunch of twisting strain on bearings, spacers, pivots etc. My hope is that I can get all-new everything except front and rear triangle, and see if starting from scratch with a brace-reinforced linkage is the fix.

  49. #1849
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    Quote Originally Posted by rk47 View Post
    It's most likely going to be a new triangle with some linkage changes and exactly same front triangle. New colors.
    From my conversations with Intense, which have only been a few, this is what I expect. The rear triangle will have two forward braces instead of one. The front triangle remains the same.

    Yes, new colors.

  50. #1850
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Good info, appreciate it. I was under the impression that the Blur was solid; Riding/messing with one, itís definitely the stiffest and most robust XC bike Iíve tried.

    SB100 fits the bill but also has a bunch of issues.

    Mach4 SL fits the bill but Iím not convinced by the design, bearings pressed directly into carbon frame seems like a potential problem...

    Honestly Iíd really like a bike that will just fíing work week in and week out, even if ridden in PNW mud.
    Iíve got almost 800 miles on my SB100 since mid-June, with no issues. After wanting a Sniper (badly), the issues scared me away, and I narrowed it down to a Blur TR or the SB100. Love my choice. YMMV...


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  51. #1851
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    A quick update: After checking in with Intense, Chappy is sending me all new everything for the Sniper, with the exception of the front and rear triangles. Upper and lower links, bolts, spacers, pivot axles, the works. My HOPE is that this new hardware (which includes some revised parts), installed with a brace, will hold up better. Stiffer rear end means less lateral torque on bearings etc. We'll see.

    At the very least, I have to commend Intense for quickly dispatching a bunch of hardware. I just wish I didn't need to go through this quite so often.

  52. #1852
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    I'm hoping this finally fixes everything for you. Your recent posts had me looking at other brands/models, because hope of a durable bike was rapidly disappearing for me.
    Death from Below.

  53. #1853
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    I have had the foundation trail model for almost a year now. I have replaced the upper link and added the cross brace. I would like to now do some upgrades to the bike and I'm looking for suggestions for upgrades that will give me the most bang for my buck.

  54. #1854
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdaddyg2006 View Post
    I have had the foundation trail model for almost a year now. I have replaced the upper link and added the cross brace. I would like to now do some upgrades to the bike and I'm looking for suggestions for upgrades that will give me the most bang for my buck.
    #1 upgrade is always wheels unless they are top notch. I am assuming you are still running stock wheels?

    Take a look at these:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3284...2ef05c38sGwyhr

    If you scroll down on the chart you can see the different build ups of rim styles. I can't find my exact rim on their site anymore, but just email Angela and tell her what you are looking for. They will make variations for you and unless it is an upgraded part it will stay the same price.

    My rims are the 33-22UL so 325g for 29" asym 28h hookless 28mm internal width rims. I had them build them with DT swiss 350 w/ upgraded 36t ratchet and cx-ray spokes.
    $792 shipped to my door.

    1380g total

    If you go back to some of my posts I have a list of upgrades I made to my bike. All pretty reasonable. Post #1656 I have it listed.

  55. #1855
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdaddyg2006 View Post
    I have had the foundation trail model for almost a year now. I have replaced the upper link and added the cross brace. I would like to now do some upgrades to the bike and I'm looking for suggestions for upgrades that will give me the most bang for my buck.
    As already mentioned below, wheels are always an important upgrade and make a huge difference. Next would be to upgrade your suspension. That will turn that into a completely new and different bike! Next I might take a look at those brakes. They're budget Shimano. Even going to Shimano SLX 4 piston would be a great improvement, but I would go XT 4 piston. (And of course the Shimano haters will say SRAM, but whatever.)

  56. #1856
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    Looked over the Foundation build just now. I wouldn't upgrade the suspenion, because you should have just done that in the first place at that price point.
    What bang for the buck are you looking for? Weight or performance? Both.
    Other areas you can look into that are cheap weight savers are stem, handlebar, grips, Kabolt thru axle.

    Biggest issue is it is running NX Eagle, which I believe runs on an Shimano style freehub and not an XD driver. So to upgrade a cassette to say a lighter XO Eagle you would need a new hub or free hub at least if you can. If you are replacing the wheels then I would make sure to get a hub built around an XD driver so you can upgrade your cassette.

    You can upgrade your drivetrain, but SRAM parts are SRAM parts and will work mostly the same so it is more of a weight game. You can look at a carbon crankset if you want to shed grams. The two biggest spots to shave weight on the drive train are cassette and crank.

    Last place I think you could look at is brakes. I don't know how well the SH-500 work, but I have always been an XT and sometimes XTR guy for brakes. A new set of XT 8000 can be found for under $200 and you can always look at the newer 4pot versions.

    Hope this helps

    Edit: Wind beat me by a minute

  57. #1857
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdaddyg2006 View Post
    I have had the foundation trail model for almost a year now. I have replaced the upper link and added the cross brace. I would like to now do some upgrades to the bike and I'm looking for suggestions for upgrades that will give me the most bang for my buck.
    What are you looking to get more of out of the bike? Lighter weight for longer riding/racing or a little burlier for trails? This will help give you an idea on how to upgrade for your desired usage.

  58. #1858
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    I'm just an average joe SoCal/LA area rider but ideally looking to make the bike lighter. Thanks.

  59. #1859
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    Your wheels are probably above 2000g for the set. You go with a set like I did and you are losing 600-700g which is roughly 1.5-1.75lbs of rotating mass. Easily the best thing you can do.

  60. #1860
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdaddyg2006 View Post
    I'm just an average joe SoCal/LA area rider but ideally looking to make the bike lighter. Thanks.
    Like many have mentioned upgrading the wheels/tires is going to be the biggest change you can make on that bike. Wheels/tires are a rotating mass so they have a much higher perceived weight savings than changing out a static part like a stem, bar, saddle. Changing to a lighter/faster rolling tire will be the cheapest and easiest with the greatest perceived weight savings. However, the lighter the tire the more prone it is to punctures and has less traction. A carbon wheelset and lighter hub will give you the second biggest perceived weight saving and will also increase structure and performance on a shorter travel bike. That being said, it is usually the most expensive upgrade to make. Is your Fork a 34 stepcast or a standard 34 lower?

  61. #1861
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    The biggest difference maker is wheels/hubs. You can get 30 mm carbon wheels with high end hubs (I chose I-9 Hydra Hubs), Sapim C Xray spokes, Sapim Secure Lock Alloy Nipple for ~ $1,100. I used CWUSA, https://cyclewheelsusa.com/.

  62. #1862
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    Thanks for the reply. I have the stepcast fork.

  63. #1863
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    I need to say this moment that intense warranty is bullshit. My last warranty claim tooks 11 weeks and only what i got was fourth top link and not brace. Ive owned my frame around six months and there were +20 weeks warranty claims, not funny anymore. Im glad that this is not my only bike!

  64. #1864
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    Huh,

    That stinks. USA warranty? My experience is the exact opposite. Sent an email, next day they replied and asked for pics. Sent the pics the following day. Had a new rear triangle within the week.

    Can't ask for much more

  65. #1865
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    Eu warranty. I also send message today at US techcenter and now im waiting their replying. I just hope that they start to do something to help with my problem and just not pissed me off. I think that they should send me the brace, if its not too much asked.

    I get my frame 18.3.2019 and i made same day warranty claim, it took one week.

    Second starts 23.4.2019 and ends 18.6.2019

    Third starts 29.7.2019 and ends 15.10.2019

    And every time reason was toplink, i think that those timelines are unereasonable.

    Its not solution to send everytime new toplink and hope that it hold up.

  66. #1866
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    Quote Originally Posted by maojala View Post
    Eu warranty. I also send message today at US techcenter and now im waiting their replying. I just hope that they start to do something to help with my problem and just not pissed me off. I think that they should send me the brace, if its not too much asked.

    I get my frame 18.3.2019 and i made same day warranty claim, it took one week.

    Second starts 23.4.2019 and ends 18.6.2019

    Third starts 29.7.2019 and ends 15.10.2019

    And every time reason was toplink, i think that those timelines are unereasonable.

    Its not solution to send everytime new toplink and hope that it hold up.
    Yeah I can't speak to the EU, but Intense USA has been VERY responsive to warranty issues. Emails always answered same-day, new parts supplied quickly when needed. My frustrations with the Sniper links have been documented elsewhere on this thread, but I can't fault Intense's customer service.

  67. #1867
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    It really looks like US warranty works! It took 24h and my case is solved. I just dont understand what a hell eu guys do in their jobs..

  68. #1868
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    Quote Originally Posted by maojala View Post
    It really looks like US warranty works! It took 24h and my case is solved. I just dont understand what a hell eu guys do in their jobs..
    Probably located in Greece and dealing with riots, or England and dealing with Brexit, or Germany and dealing with Neo-nazis. Hands are full

  69. #1869
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    No problems in the UK, the guys at SaddleBack have been great. Parts may take a bit longer to arrive than in the US, I think stocks here are lower, but always a fast response.

  70. #1870
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    Problems with other countries is that (I will assume) they are just distributors. A lot of the time, small time distributors. They don't have the capital, capacity or knowledge to deal with warranty stuff properly.

    Any issues I have had were dealt with quickly and with great staff at Intense USA
    www.johnnyboy.ca

    .:grupettolife.com: mtbrealtors.com:.

  71. #1871
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    Has anyone installed a remote shock lock-out on their Sniper? If yes, what did you use and how did you route the cable to the read shock? Thanks.
    Show me your Toads. Old Brodies, too.

  72. #1872
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    I have a Sniper with a Lev Ci - a reasonably common build I think. I've tried two shock pumps on it so far, the Intense branded one and a Rock Shox pump, but neither will fit - they're too wide to fit far enough into the valve opening.

    I have a standard Lev which I've pumped up no problem.

    Is there something up with my Lev? Or is there another brand shock pump that'll fit?

    TIA.

  73. #1873
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    Hey, maybe this has already been posted, but I just noticed that the Sniper brace installation manual has photos of a dual-sided Sniper rear triangle. I guess this must be the new/revised Sniper Trail. Looks like it uses all the same hardware etc, just adds that drive side strut.

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/24...ges2.pdf?13857

  74. #1874
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Hey, maybe this has already been posted, but I just noticed that the Sniper brace installation manual has photos of a dual-sided Sniper rear triangle. I guess this must be the new/revised Sniper Trail. Looks like it uses all the same hardware etc, just adds that drive side strut.

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/24...ges2.pdf?13857
    Good catch. I think I read the scuttlebutt more info about the new/revised Sniper Trail at the end of this month? I'm super interested in this frame as my next FS bike--it will be interesting to see if/how the rider reccomended weight changes.

  75. #1875
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    I'm interested in seeing they can keep it under 27lbs.

  76. #1876
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    Anybody in the Seattle/Tacoma area have an XL Trail I could try out (maybe even an L or XC version)? I figure its a long shot, but it couldn't hurt to ask. It's one of the two or three frames I'm settling on for my next frame, but I'd love to get even a few minutes on an example for I look at it further. I think Intense has a "14 day it and return it if you don't love it" policy, but I'll be building up a frame and don't like the idea of buying a bike with the sole intention of returning it (even if I love it).

    Yah, I'll email them as well to see if they know of any local options, but figured it would be worth to try here too.

    Thanks!

  77. #1877
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    Intense Sniper

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Van Deventer View Post
    I'm interested in seeing they can keep it under 27lbs.
    They better. My Large Primer is 26.5 with pedals and 30mm ID wheels. Iíd be disappointed to see it over 24.5 with XTR pedals, cage ready to ride in a high mod.



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  78. #1878
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    They better. My Large Primer is 26.5 with pedals and 30mm ID wheels. Iíd be disappointed to see it over 24.5 with XTR pedals, cage ready to ride in a high mod.



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    Don't understand how you guys keep them so light. My recluse was like 31lbs.

    My current frame weighs 2450 grams and has a tiny 165x45 fox performance shock. Light bike rims with ck hubs. Revive dropper Trickstuff Piccola brakes FSA Evo 392 cranks and ht ae05 mag pedals.

    Still have trouble keeping it under 27.5lbs.

  79. #1879
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    They better. My Large Primer is 26.5 with pedals and 30mm ID wheels. Iíd be disappointed to see it over 24.5 with XTR pedals, cage ready to ride in a high mod.



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    that's super light. have any pics of the build?

  80. #1880
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    I guess I could lose another 1.5lbs by losing the magic Mary and Ribbon coil off the front. But screw that.

  81. #1881
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Van Deventer View Post
    Don't understand how you guys keep them so light. My recluse was like 31lbs.
    because life would be serene and peaceful without having excessive flexure and a brace repair to continuously be b&míing about.

    sorry, just needed to get that off my chest.

  82. #1882
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    Intense Sniper

    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    that's super light. have any pics of the build?
    Hey guys yes plenty of pics. It started off as a Pro build. I swapped out the following;

    Swapped the bar for the the Carbon Fatbar

    Swapped the super heavy fabric saddle for the Bontrager saddle. Very light, good looking and fits my ass well

    Ditched the crappy SRAM Level TLM for Magura MT7. Probably slightly heavier but WAY better brakes. Worth every gram.

    Used a Kabolt front thru axel and lost some weight

    Bought DT Swiss XMC1200 and rode them for a year or so. Then went with Roval Traverse SL 30mm ID wheels. Fairly light and super strong. Really like these.

    Put on Fast Trak 2.35 tires w Stans.

    All in right at 26.6 lbs with XTR Race pedals and Carbon cage.

    Here are a few pics with both wheel sets I run. I also have pics on the scale too.




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  83. #1883
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    nice build.

  84. #1884
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    nice build.
    Thanks Matt


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  85. #1885
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    Quote Originally Posted by padrefan1982 View Post
    Anybody in the Seattle/Tacoma area have an XL Trail I could try out (maybe even an L or XC version)? I figure its a long shot, but it couldn't hurt to ask. It's one of the two or three frames I'm settling on for my next frame, but I'd love to get even a few minutes on an example for I look at it further. I think Intense has a "14 day it and return it if you don't love it" policy, but I'll be building up a frame and don't like the idea of buying a bike with the sole intention of returning it (even if I love it).

    Yah, I'll email them as well to see if they know of any local options, but figured it would be worth to try here too.

    Thanks!
    Iím in Seattle with an XL Sniper XC frame built with a 120 34SC fork. So geometry identical to Trail, just a tad less squish in back. PM me if youíd like to meet up for a ride at Tiger/Raging etc., happy to share.

  86. #1886
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Iím in Seattle with an XL Sniper XC frame built with a 120 34SC fork. So geometry identical to Trail, just a tad less squish in back. PM me if youíd like to meet up for a ride at Tiger/Raging etc., happy to share.
    Very cool of you to offer this. Hope you two sync up.


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  87. #1887
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Iím in Seattle with an XL Sniper XC frame built with a 120 34SC fork. So geometry identical to Trail, just a tad less squish in back. PM me if youíd like to meet up for a ride at Tiger/Raging etc., happy to share.
    This brings me to asking a question I've been thinking for a while, Loving the bike, but sometimes I feel the fork is letting it down a bit (or could be my setup).

    For those with an XC and have gone to a longer fork, how long, what are you running, is is better/much better?
    All the gear and no idea.

  88. #1888
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    For US residents, just launched a promotion on all 2019 Snipers. Get a free carbon wheelset with your purchase. Perfect time to get a Foundation, Expert or Pro build and get a lightweight carbon wheelset. While supplies last.

  89. #1889
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    Quote Originally Posted by mik_git View Post
    This brings me to asking a question I've been thinking for a while, Loving the bike, but sometimes I feel the fork is letting it down a bit (or could be my setup).

    For those with an XC and have gone to a longer fork, how long, what are you running, is is better/much better?
    Never ran mine with anything but the 120. Seems like a great setup for me though, no regrets in terms of steering. Front of the bike is damn low anyway (on an XL) so I like the fit with a 120.

  90. #1890
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    For US residents, just launched a promotion on all 2019 Snipers. Get a free carbon wheelset with your purchase. Perfect time to get a Foundation, Expert or Pro build and get a lightweight carbon wheelset. While supplies last.
    Any demo or blem frame-only options coming up soon?
    Death from Below.

  91. #1891
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Any demo or blem frame-only options coming up soon?
    Not on Snipers. There is some really good pricing on 2018 Frame only Tracer/Carbine/Recluse/ACV right now.

  92. #1892
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Iím in Seattle with an XL Sniper XC frame built with a 120 34SC fork. So geometry identical to Trail, just a tad less squish in back. PM me if youíd like to meet up for a ride at Tiger/Raging etc., happy to share.
    PMing now!

  93. #1893
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    So I buy the Sniper this summer, have to wait for the brace (that I have to buy) to come out to ride, then rear triangle is f'ed once I try to put the brace on so still can't ride and NOW they are giving out free carbon wheels? Cause wheels are cheaper than a brace?

    Now I am starting to get a little pissed

    So lets not support the early adopters and loyal customers, but entice holdouts to move leftover stock.

    Got to love it

  94. #1894
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post

    So lets not support the early adopters and loyal customers, but entice holdouts to move leftover stock.
    You mean over a year of sales before a loyal customer who spent his own money to do his own testing came up with the much needed fix.

  95. #1895
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    I purchased my 2019 Sniper trail Pro beginning of Sep and after a couple of rides, immediately noticed a bit of flex in the rear. In reaching out to my sales rep at Intense, he stated he would let me know when the brace was available, and I would be sent out one.
    Following this thread closely, I noticed someone post a link to purchase the brace, which I did so immediately, knowing it would most likely be my fastest option rather than wait for my contact at Intense reach out to me. I installed the brace with no issues, and i'm pretty happy with the stiffer back end. I figured why even reach out to Intense about the brace they promised to send since the problem was fixed for a measly $30? That was until I received an email stating ALL versions of the Sniper trail were now included in the free wheelset promotion.

    I reached out to Intense again regarding this, as well as the brace that was never brought back up, and was told there is typically a 15 day period they honor promotions, but would see what they could pull together. I received an email just now offering a discounted wheelset, but nowhere near a free wheelset.
    While I do give Intense credit for at least offering some type of discount, Its difficult to imagine them not being able to honor a promotion for a bike so recently purchased.

    I am kind of bummed about this if you couldn't tell.

  96. #1896
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaffas84 View Post
    I purchased my 2019 Sniper trail Pro beginning of Sep and after a couple of rides, immediately noticed a bit of flex in the rear. In reaching out to my sales rep at Intense, he stated he would let me know when the brace was available, and I would be sent out one.
    Following this thread closely, I noticed someone post a link to purchase the brace, which I did so immediately, knowing it would most likely be my fastest option rather than wait for my contact at Intense reach out to me. I installed the brace with no issues, and i'm pretty happy with the stiffer back end. I figured why even reach out to Intense about the brace they promised to send since the problem was fixed for a measly $30? That was until I received an email stating ALL versions of the Sniper trail were now included in the free wheelset promotion.

    I reached out to Intense again regarding this, as well as the brace that was never brought back up, and was told there is typically a 15 day period they honor promotions, but would see what they could pull together. I received an email just now offering a discounted wheelset, but nowhere near a free wheelset.
    While I do give Intense credit for at least offering some type of discount, Its difficult to imagine them not being able to honor a promotion for a bike so recently purchased.

    I am kind of bummed about this if you couldn't tell.
    If you're going to be upset at least be accurate. You're actually asking for more. You already have wheels, the current promotions isn't an extra set of wheels, it's an upgrade. You're asking to be given another wheel set on top of the one you got with the bike.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

  97. #1897
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    If you're going to be upset at least be accurate. You're actually asking for more. You already have wheels, the current promotions isn't an extra set of wheels, it's an upgrade. You're asking to be given another wheel set on top of the one you got with the bike.
    You get both wheelsets. From Intense's website

    "You can now use one set of wheels for practice and your new Ethirteen wheels as your race day wheelset."

  98. #1898
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    If you're going to be upset at least be accurate. You're actually asking for more. You already have wheels, the current promotions isn't an extra set of wheels, it's an upgrade. You're asking to be given another wheel set on top of the one you got with the bike.
    The promotion is actually an EXTRA set of wheels on top of the ones it originally comes with.

  99. #1899
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Peepers View Post
    You get both wheelsets. From Intense's website

    "You can now use one set of wheels for practice and your new Ethirteen wheels as your race day wheelset."
    Quote Originally Posted by Gaffas84 View Post
    The promotion is actually an EXTRA set of wheels on top of the ones it originally comes with.
    I stand corrected- interesting offer.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

  100. #1900
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    I am new to this new bottom bracket (the DUB BB92) and I have a stupid question, if I wanted to replace my current chainring with a different size, and the new chainring comes in either 3mm offset or 6mm offset, but both are designed for the 148mm boost rear wheelset, which of the two offsets should I be looking at? This was never a big deal before with a 96bcd, but this is somehow the first bike I have had that has a direct mount crankset, and its throwing me.

    Can anyone offer any advice?

    thanks in advance
    RY

  101. #1901
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    im not a sram expert, but generally speaking "boost" offset is overrated and most people have no problems leaning toward "standard" chainring offset; especially if you spend more time in the bigger cogs. so, my vote would be the most inboard of the two. you really want to find the chart that shows actual chainline, however, and compare that to what SRAM calls for.

  102. #1902
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randomsabers View Post
    I am new to this new bottom bracket (the DUB BB92) and I have a stupid question, if I wanted to replace my current chainring with a different size, and the new chainring comes in either 3mm offset or 6mm offset, but both are designed for the 148mm boost rear wheelset, which of the two offsets should I be looking at? This was never a big deal before with a 96bcd, but this is somehow the first bike I have had that has a direct mount crankset, and its throwing me.

    Can anyone offer any advice?

    thanks in advance
    RY
    With boost spacing you will go with a 3mm offset. Nonboost uses 6mm offset.

  103. #1903
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativefletch View Post
    With boost spacing you will go with a 3mm offset. Nonboost uses 6mm offset.
    Outstanding...thanks mate!

  104. #1904
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randomsabers View Post
    Outstanding...thanks mate!
    Well chainring size may matter. Boost will allow for a larger chain ring. A 36T oval clears plenty fine on a 52mm Boost for my Spider 275C, 49mm non-Boost no way.

  105. #1905
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    Quote Originally Posted by branes View Post
    I have a Sniper with a Lev Ci - a reasonably common build I think. I've tried two shock pumps on it so far, the Intense branded one and a Rock Shox pump, but neither will fit - they're too wide to fit far enough into the valve opening.

    I have a standard Lev which I've pumped up no problem.

    Is there something up with my Lev? Or is there another brand shock pump that'll fit?

    TIA.
    To answer my own question ... the Ci is a bit different to the standard lev so the whole cradle comes off including the base. It's the base that appears to limit access to the valve on the Ci, whereas on the standard Lev there's plenty of clearance to get to the valve. Once it's off there's no problem...mine was sticky as my Sniper had been a demo model which had clearly seen some mud.

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