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  1. #1
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    What stem length/angle are you running on your Mojo?

    I'm currently running a 90mm 0 degree rise Thomson stem with Ritchey WCS Carbon risers (660m wide) on my large Mojo. I'm 6', and feel like the bars are too low and too far out over the front of the bike (or maybe just too low, hard to tell). I have an adjustable seatpost, and when it's all the way up, I feel way too far over the front when descending, but climbing feels fine. When it's down, I still feel like the bars aren't where they should be, and don't feel like the bike fits me like a glove. The seat is probably 80% forward on its rails.

    I'm curious what stem length and angle most people run, especially those around my height.

  2. #2
    Mojo0115
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    you might want to try a search, stem length comes up a lot.

    I run 50mm stem with 30inch handle bars on my Mojo with an adjustable seat dropper. I am 6'0" on a large Mojo.

    But if it feels too high while descending why not just lower it? I know that when I can't drop my seat for a descent it doesn't feel anywhere near as good as when it is dropped and out of the way. But it is not because it makes me feel to far over the front rather it is because it gets in the way for corners and getting out the back over the rear wheel for very steep moves.

  3. #3
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    The seat position front" rear really depends on the length of your femurs ( upper leg length).
    if the old " knee over cranks" is close that is probably a good start ;-)

    The stem length should be a control issue and I reckon 70mm max, 60 is better, but this must be teamed with a wider bar, about 725-740mm . If the bars are about 2" below the correct XC height of the saddle this setup will give you:
    good weight on the bars for cornering, climbing and braking, and a short enough stem to balance on the cranks going downhill without over- extending your arms.

    You really need to ride a bike set this way to see what a huge difference this strategy does make!

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the input. Unfortunately I can't run wider bars, I'll stop being able to make it through a lot of the tight tree sections we have on our local trails (Raleigh, NC).

    Are you guys running zero degree stems?

  5. #5
    Mojo0115
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBeat
    Thanks for the input. Unfortunately I can't run wider bars, I'll stop being able to make it through a lot of the tight tree sections we have on our local trails (Raleigh, NC).

    Are you guys running zero degree stems?
    yep 0 degree for me.
    Thompson 50mm X4 Black


    You might be surprised how wider bars still make it through tight tree sections, the difference they make in other aspects were more than enough for me to take the plunge on my trail bike as well. But Colorado is not as constrained as your part of the world I expect.

  6. #6
    www.derbyrims.com
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    I found the Mojo climbs so easily I wanted to improve rock handling and downhill. So I went from a 90mm 6' rise and no stem spacers below with 2 inch 26.5 inch wide bars, to 70mm 6' rise with 1.5 inch high 27.5 bars and bumped the seat rearward from post center to about 3/4 inch behind center.

    The front felt light with sketchy traction up tight switchbacks on the first ride until I quickly adapted my upper body lean a little for those situations. Handling is more stable over rocks and downhill, jumps are less front end "heavy", and the wider bars give more acceleration power.

    6'1" 32 inseam on a large size.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    I found the Mojo climbs so easily I wanted to improve rock handling and downhill. So I went from a 90mm 6' rise and no stem spacers below with 2 inch 26.5 inch wide bars, to 70mm 6' rise with 1.5 inch high 27.5 bars and bumped the seat rearward from post center to about 3/4 inch behind center.

    The front felt light with sketchy traction up tight switchbacks on the first ride until I quickly adapted my upper body lean a little for those situations. Handling is more stable over rocks and downhill, jumps are less front end "heavy", and the wider bars give more acceleration power.

    6'1" 32 inseam on a large size.
    That sounds like what I should do. What stem are you using for a 6' rise? Unfortunately it looks like Thomson only makes a 0deg 70mm stem.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBeat
    Unfortunately it looks like Thomson only makes a 0deg 70mm stem.
    Unfortunately, yes. Recently I swapped my 90mm 10deg Thomson stem with 70mm 5deg stem (ControlTech FX, cnc made, seems same quality as Thomson), same bar - 710mm 1.5'' rise.
    At first, on flat terrain I felt a little cramped but handling on descends improved dramatically, really more stable. Im 6'1'' on large Mojo.

  9. #9
    Founder: Dirty3hirties
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    My Mojo is 3 years old. Started off with Thomson 90 mm, 0 degree rise. EA70 685 1.5 rise. Had about 1 1/2 in of spacers. Quickly changed to a 70 mm Thomson (I only had the 90 on there while I waited for the 70 to arrive). I just recently lowered the bar by 5mm and it really helped the handling both up and downhill.

    I just ordered a Sunline V1 50mm, 0 degree rise last week. Amped to give it a try this week.

    I'm 5'7".

  10. #10
    www.derbyrims.com
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    I'm using an Ibis 70mm stem, it has 6' rise. Being rather short it barely raises the bar. With a 0' rise stem a 1/2 inch spacer would get about the same bar height.

  11. #11
    Singletrack Addict!!!
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    685mm x 1.5 easton Monkeylight x 90 x 0 thomson, about 1/2 inch spacers, perfect all around, for me that is. Seat is almost all they way back on the rails, 6ft 33 inseam. I'd like to try a 80 or 70 stem to see how it feels. I rode a 70mm on and HD and felt great, but the top tube is a bit longer by 4.5mm.

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