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  1. #1
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    what do you NOT like about your mojo or mojo sl?

    For instance:

    1) ...the bottom bracket is too low causing too many pedal strikes.
    2) ...there is too much rattling.
    3) ...there's not enough standover clearance.
    4) ...the lack of stack height with the integrated headset requires too many spacers to get the bars up.
    5) ...the top tube is too short (or too long).
    6) ...there's more pedal bob than you thought there would be.
    7) ...the kit wheels aren't very strong.
    8) ...the frame flexes too much.
    etc.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by happyriding; 10-07-2009 at 10:53 PM.

  2. #2
    OHV Gansta
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    wtb v seat that it comes with
    how the chain runs real close to the inside of the chainstay

    other than i love everything about my mojo
    Get out and ride

  3. #3
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    Rattling of the rear brake hose on the top tube.
    Chain so close to the rear seat stays

  4. #4
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    The Dam Chain suck thing that keeps coming off.....

  5. #5
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    When I get tired my Mojo does not pedal for me... man that bugs me.
    Frameskin™ Bike Protection Film
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  6. #6
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    Its such a pain to clean, the frame has so many tight spots its almost impossible!
    Custom "Carbon fetish" Ibis Mojo SL - http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=555199 - 10.2Kg and dropping

  7. #7
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    The noisy cable stops squeaking all the time. Also the stainless steel protector on the chain stay doesn't protect the underside of the chainstay, which is where I get the most wear. I have to keep putting those stick on rubber feet for furniture there. If I make sure the chainstay protector is far forward enough it just gets worn through or slips back slowly during a ride. Not being able to run the lower ratio XX is a bit of a bummer too.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DH_WP
    The Dam Chain suck thing that keeps coming off.....
    this

  9. #9
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    I hate how my Ibis taunts me when I can't ride. It invades my daydreams at works and teases me with visions of singletrack. It has mind powers and is constantly distracting me. My wife has noticed and is jealous. Now she taunts me that I'd be sleeping with my Ibis if the wife weren't already occupying space. Huey Lewis was mistaken. The drug he was looking for wasn't Love. It was a Mojo. Sucky addiction.
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

  10. #10
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    Stock RP23 performance on DW linkage. Not mojo specific
    Occaisional chain suck and the little metal plate falling off and needing to be re-glued.

    The above are minor and there's nothing I would change it for at present.

  11. #11
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    I dunno....doesn't turn into a pizza and a six pack after a ride?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb143
    I hate how my Ibis taunts me when I can't ride. It invades my daydreams at works and teases me with visions of singletrack. It has mind powers and is constantly distracting me. My wife has noticed and is jealous. Now she taunts me that I'd be sleeping with my Ibis if the wife weren't already occupying space. Huey Lewis was mistaken. The drug he was looking for wasn't Love. It was a Mojo. Sucky addiction.
    This is all true. I keep trying to convince mine she needs one too.

    The chainslap noise on bumpy downhills, but I think I just cured that with an e13 DS chainguide.

  13. #13
    RPG
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    Chain suck
    '10 rp23 just doesn't feel right. I run the rebound very slow so it doesn't bounce everywhere.

  14. #14
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    I had to get a Lopes Link and through axle to make the rear stiff enough.
    Chain suck problems force me to be vigilant when shifting into granny gear.

    That's it.

  15. #15
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    Hey Dan51, which e13 DS chainguide did you use ? What type mount ? Is it easy to install ?
    I agree, the only thing that bothers me is the loud chain noise rattling when hitting rough trails.

  16. #16
    Ride More Work Less
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    Large Mojo SL

    First off, I read this forum too much and think about all the issues others have had and wonder if I'll get them...and some I have.

    1. Chainsuck has started after a year, causing me to be too cautious changing chainrings.
    2. Can't get the chainsuck protector to stay glued on.
    3. My right heel can rub the chainstay protector and now it has a hole in it.
    4. When in small chainring and 1st 3 or 4 gears, coasting over bumpy terrain, the chain sometimes catches on the outer knobs of my 2.4 tire. Took me a long time to figure out that weird noise. I thought the rear deraileur was loose.
    5. I'm in better shape than ever and ride my local trails faster.
    6. All I want to do is ride my Mojo. Wife is worried about me...

  17. #17
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    Sorry for being such an @ss here, but I hate when people go for what's wrong with things instead of going for what's good with it. Seriously, if you NEED A REASON to NOT buy or like a thing, you ALREADY got it. Nothing's perfect, and by listing any defect you could find on something you'd like to have or enjoy, you are already preventing yourself of having or enjoying it. So let it be.

    The Mojo is good enough to make you forget any issues while riding it. After all, what makes a bike so good is if it makes you like more the ride than the object you are on. And the Mojo makes you love your riding. And damn, it looks beautiful too. For me, there cannot be a better win-win situation than this.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black RONIN
    Sorry for being such an @ss here, but I hate when people go for what's wrong with things instead of going for what's good with it.
    The good list will be too long

    Quote Originally Posted by dcpowpow
    Hey Dan51, which e13 DS chainguide did you use ? What type mount ? Is it easy to install ?
    I agree, the only thing that bothers me is the loud chain noise rattling when hitting rough trails.
    I got this, the BB mount one. Install was easy, but I take things apart all the time so I'm familiar with the process.
    http://www.e13components.com/product_ds.html

  19. #19
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    Dan51, sorry for my stupid questions, but can I keep all three of the front chain rings on whan using this chain roller or does the outer one have to be removed ?
    I have never used a chain roller. Does it add resistance when pedaling ?
    Cheers

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DH_WP
    The Dam Chain suck thing that keeps coming off.....
    Thats mine too, along with the shiny protector coming off. I'm trying to fix the 1st by going to 2x9 with a set of middleburns see if that works. I forgot, having a bike that preforms better then I do.

  21. #21
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    I agree blackronin but the poster was curious about issues I guess. I have two small quibbles as detailed but it is all forgotten out on the trail. Concious of the chainsuck from time to time but I take it easy when changing to and from the granny.

    It's an awesome bike that for sure

  22. #22
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    I know that we always want to be aware of the troubles we can possibly run into way before it happens, but most of the times these things end up bluring the good points, because if we think that way, we already get into it concerned about when and how those issues gonna - if ever - happen, so when a small thing happens, we automatically start to think if we did a bad choice, but there will always be compromises for every bike we ride.

    But it is valid to discuss the issues, of course, since you don't let it cloud your vision to all the good things a good bike (the Mojo or any other) can give you in trade of a few pedal strokes.
    Last edited by Black RONIN; 10-08-2009 at 08:12 PM.

  23. #23
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    1. chainsuck and chainslap
    2. crummy appearance of white paint after "riding" the bike
    3. the 650b rear wheel rubs on the seat tube too easily (yeah, not their fault cuz it wasn't built for 650b, just saying)
    4. bb was low until switching to 650b

    i certainly like the bike a lot better than my previous heckler though. i think these are small sacrifices for the quality of the ride.

  24. #24
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    Just one.

    The bike bottom on to the back of the seat tube. I've got one with DHX air and a few time it happened it leaves nasty tire marks on it.

  25. #25
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    Low BB and flex were bothersome for me but primarily I liked how well it pedaled.

  26. #26
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    I have a 07 and feel that they should be replacing the upper link with Lopes Links for free!
    The rear flex causes my disc to rub against the pads when stressed. Also the flex probally shortens the bearing life of both links. I'm going to to cave and buy the Lopes Link soon,though. Yet even with its short comings it the best trail bike I ever rode.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigrocks
    I have a 07 and feel that they should be replacing the upper link with Lopes Links for free!
    The rear flex causes my disc to rub against the pads when stressed. Also the flex probally shortens the bearing life of both links. I'm going to to cave and buy the Lopes Link soon,though. Yet even with its short comings it the best trail bike I ever rode.
    Stop being an assmunch whiner and learn how to adjust your hub bearings.

    Glad you're enjoying your Mojo otherwise.
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

  28. #28
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    Hmm...

    [QUOTE=mtb143]Stop being an assmunch whiner and learn how to adjust your hub bearings.



    It is not my hub bearings. I went through all of the possible sources of the flex,including trying a rear thru axel. I've been riding full suspension since 1997 and I am well aware how even a slighty loose bolt,worn bearings and bushings can cause play, flex.The flex or twisting extends outward from the upper link,and you can see the link itself twisting.

  29. #29
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    Ah. Well, then, please accept my humble apologies, and get yourself a Lopes Link. But criminy, don't expect Ibis to cough them up for free, puhleese. They produce an exceptional product, support it heroically, and do so at an extremely fair and reasonable price. Be man (or woman) enough to cough up a few bucks for the one part that was developed after you bought your bicycle from them.
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

  30. #30
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    Anyone want to talk about the low bottom bracket? I'd pull the trigger on an SL next spring but the technical climbs here might be too much for a low BB. No, its not just a matter of technique - many of the trails I ride have sections that require a plow over. There are no choose your line or time your cranks...seriously.

  31. #31
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    With 130 and 140mm forks you will probably hit the pedals on some rocks, but at 150, you will feel a lot more comfortable. I was on a 150 Float, got down to a 140 Minute, felt it too low and steep, but I'm coming back to TALAS 150 15QR and Havoc wheels. Get some fat rubber and that will also help to put you higher from the ground. The Nobbys are definetely higher than the Nevegals and got me a few milimeters over the ground as well.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by monteverest
    Anyone want to talk about the low bottom bracket? .
    The 13.25 BB height with 26 x 2.25 tires is common for about 90% of bikes with 5.5 inch travel. Check out the DW-Link Pivot Mack 5 for a 5.5 inch travel bike with a high BB. BB height is normally not much higher until going to 6+ inch travel heavy duty AM bikes.

    Some Mojo riders are using 150mm forks to raise pedal clearance and gain rough trail pedaling and downhill handling advantages. Some including me are using 650b wheels to raise clearance 1/2 inch and gain other traction, rolling and handling advantages.

  33. #33
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    Really? So 90% of bikes are at 13.25? These must be the really obscure ones here:

    SC Blur- 13.5
    Turner Spot 13.7
    Motolite- 13.68 (FTM 13.25)
    Ciclon- 13.6
    Tracer VP- 13.5/13.8
    Endorphin- 13.5
    575- 13.6
    Epiphany- 13.7

    EDIT- Mojo is 13.2.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer
    Really? So 90% of bikes are at 13.25? These must be the really obscure ones here:

    SC Blur- 13.5
    Turner Spot 13.7
    Motolite- 13.68 (FTM 13.25)
    Ciclon- 13.6
    Tracer VP- 13.5/13.8
    Endorphin- 13.5
    575- 13.6
    Epiphany- 13.7

    EDIT- Mojo is 13.2.
    13.2 with what fork and tires? Is that to center of BB?
    milesW

  35. #35
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    Although the Mojo is suitable for AM, the Mojo is a more XC and trail-oriented bike. It has a lower BB, but you can substantially cure that with a longer fork, because since you intend to go AM, a 6+ inches fork is mandatory. Go with TALAS 36, if you feel you want to ride harder and that will give you a higher BB and slacker position. But you'd be fine with a 150mm fork for most of the times.

    My 575 has 13.6 of BB height with a 150mm fork, and probably the 13.2 number for the Mojo is with a 130 or 140mm fork (they only mention the 2.3 Bulldogs when they took the measures). With a 150mm fork it would come closer to the 575, and honestly I didn't notice much difference between the two around this subject alone. I ride both the Mojo and the 575 in size M.

    EDIT: Just measured my Mojo SL with Nobbys 2.25 Evo and 150mm fork front: 345mm or 13.6.

  36. #36
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    OK maybe only 85%. Sheesh! The Mojo has a common BB height for 5.5 inch travel. Yes there are some others from 13.0 to 13.5, rarely above that.

    BTW, a Turner Spot is 13.3 with most 140mm forks and 2.3 tires (look at the web site). There was 1 year model change (2007?) when the BB went up about 1/2 inch from the original near 13.3 when 140mm forks became common and changed the rear linkage to maintain frame geometry from the prior 130mm fork days.

  37. #37
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    I'll preface this by saying that my Mojo has capabilities FAR beyond my riding skill....
    still, there are 3 things I don't like... in order

    1. Chain suck. Sometimes the chain simply locks up. I've bent my derailleur cage because of this and dropped the chain at really inopportune times. It happened twice today.

    2. Pedal strikes. Not a giant deal, but every time it happens it's disconcerting. I have a TALAS but I don't always run it at 150mm.

    3. Flex. Again, not a big deal for me, but it is noticeable in the rear. Lopes link is on my list of things to get.

    That's it! I still love the bike (it's an '07) and honestly can't think of any other bike new or old that I would rather have.
    I'm unique, just like everyone else....

  38. #38
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    Is chain suck a problem with the mojo design or the components? I can't say I've ever experienced chain suck, but I did demo a Blur LT1, and I broke the chain on some smooth double track with a gentle downhill slope at the end of the ride. I shifted gears as I tried to power over a 15 foot roller--like I would do on a road bike--and the chain broke and fell off onto the trail behind me. Could that have been the result of chain suck?

  39. #39
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    Guess this is a problem with most multi-linkage systems. FSR, VPP and so it seems the DW link as well, although I haven't experienced that on my Mojo yet. Chain suck and chain drop was the reason I sold my two Specialized bikes, among other issues. Guess that's why I like single-pivot bikes so much. The rear can stiff under hard braking, but that's a minor compromisse in trade of a more flowing ride.

  40. #40
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    1x9 setup on the mojo cures my chainsuck issues.........
    Get out and ride

  41. #41
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    Gaza... I have been wanting to ride a 1x9 for ages now.. i never use my granny or the big ring , so want to do a 32X11/34 at teh back ...

    but this weekend at a local race.. the muddy conditions cause so much chain suck the granny saved my life... it was the only chain line that the chain would not get caught in between the side and arm and the middle ring... How would a1x9 avoided this .... ?

    curious .. as I really want to go this route...

  42. #42
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    I run a 2 x 9 with bash guard and chain guide and rarely have chain suck issues. If I do it is always because I haven't cleaned and lubed my drive train.

    My wife runs 2 x 9 as well with bash guard and no chain guide and never has chain suck issues - ever.

    Neither of us have noticeable amount of pedal strikes, she runs a Talas 32, I run a Lyrik. We both pedal strike far more noticeably on our Downhill bikes (she is on a 951, I am on an M6). But we have both gotten used to riding the mojo's as to avoid pedal strikes, both of us used to pedal strike more when we first got the bikes. Also, we ride our Mojo's in the Utah desert and the Colorado mountains to give you an idea of terrain. Different terrain might have different results as we rarely have to pedal with a highly active suspension downhill in rocks, pedaling up through rock gardens is more about timing the pedal stroke and back ratcheting as needed. I have never done a pedal stroke as I am leaning the bike in corners and pedalling, where as on my DH Bike I have done that a couple of times due to lapse of concentration.

  43. #43
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    I don't mean to derail this thread, but I have never had any chain suck issues in 3 years.I am a little surprised to see this. Standard setup. 3x9 XT crank, 991 chain, 990 cassette, and XO Long cage der. I have put on 2 chains and a small chain ring in that time. Absolutely perfect shifting. (Oh, I changed cables and housings once because I snagged one) I'm very diligent about clean and lube. Very Strange.

    My only problem with the Mojo is I don't get to ride it as much as I would like. Is 9 days a week too much to ask? *grin*

    --MXFanatic

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by MXFanatic
    I don't mean to derail this thread, but I have never had any chain suck issues...
    --MXFanatic
    Agreed. I came from super annoying chain suck issues on my previous FS ride, and now with the Mojo have been completely suck free for almost two years of constant riding, including a lot of winter mud and sludge. Can't tell you how happy I am that my Mojo doesn't have this problem.

    For reference, I'm running FSA K-Force Light cranks, SRAM chain and derailleurs. Love SRAM. Don't get me started about Shimano.
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

  45. #45
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    Only "Hacks" complain about a low BB. Get 165 crank arms if you can keep your pedals off rocks. The Mojo shreds DH as well as Climbs like a dream due to the low bb. If you want something that rides like a horse try the Titus Motolite.

  46. #46
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    The rear Derailleur cable housing rubs on my calf

    Thats the only problem that i have that i havn't had on any other bike, so i'd say thats pretty good.

  47. #47
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    I've only got a few rides on mine but

    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding
    For instance:

    1) ...the bottom bracket is too low causing too many pedal strikes.
    4) ...the lack of stack height with the integrated headset requires too many spacers to get the bars up.
    7) ...the kit wheels aren't very strong.
    Ill agree with these. I have already killed one side of a pedal on a rock and the front wheel had to be replaced after one ride (sawpit at demo).

    Still, it is a wonderful bike. With the lopes link it is much stiffer than the blur and you got to love the light weight frame. I can see where chain suck might become an issue after the granny ring gets worn.

    -JC

  48. #48
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    The comments about the low BB are interesting. For me its a major plus. In fact I have owned many US made/designed bikes from the like of Foes and Intense etc. Many of them had a high BB in common. It was the main reason I didn't like the 6.6. I can only deduce that rocky terrain in California has led manufactures to a higher BB.

    For me as ,I said, the BB height of the Mojo is a plus. After years of wondering why I couldn't rail corners I love the way the Mojo rips around. I haven't run a triple in years so a 24/36 with a bash guard rules for my riding. I only have issue with clipping pedals in some rutted sections or the occaisional rock. I run flats and keep it cheap and light with Wellgo MG1's. I regard pedals as a wear item like tyres. Simply don't see the point in spending too much on an item that will invariably bear the brunt of a pedal strike. I really hope they don't mess with the BB height on the Mojo HD too much

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzl62
    The comments about the low BB are interesting. For me its a major plus. In fact I have owned many US made/designed bikes from the like of Foes and Intense etc. Many of them had a high BB in common. It was the main reason I didn't like the 6.6. I can only deduce that rocky terrain in California has led manufactures to a higher BB.

    For me as ,I said, the BB height of the Mojo is a plus. After years of wondering why I couldn't rail corners I love the way the Mojo rips around. I haven't run a triple in years so a 24/36 with a bash guard rules for my riding. I only have issue with clipping pedals in some rutted sections or the occaisional rock. I run flats and keep it cheap and light with Wellgo MG1's. I regard pedals as a wear item like tyres. Simply don't see the point in spending too much on an item that will invariably bear the brunt of a pedal strike. I really hope they don't mess with the BB height on the Mojo HD too much
    I agree with everything you just said!

    (although I still like riding mallets on my Mojo over flats, I run deity decoys for their low profile on my M6 - you want to talk low BB and the benefits, the M6 is Exhibit A! )

  50. #50
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    Ditto! on the low BB, I love how mine corner. It's much better than my Motolite corner as well as the racerX

  51. #51
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    Just bent my second rear shock bolt sleeve. The bike makes me do things I wouldn't have done previously.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridnparadise
    Just bent my second rear shock bolt sleeve. The bike makes me do things I wouldn't have done previously.
    And it is probably screaming for you to get a bigger bike for that matter! Better start saving for a HD!

  53. #53
    Bike to the Bone...
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    Quote Originally Posted by monteverest
    Anyone want to talk about the low bottom bracket? I'd pull the trigger on an SL next spring but the technical climbs here might be too much for a low BB. No, its not just a matter of technique - many of the trails I ride have sections that require a plow over. There are no choose your line or time your cranks...seriously.
    I think that low BB height might be good for some people, bad for others. I have ridden bikes with low and sort-of-high BB, and liked them both. Only thing to worry about is hitting a rock with the pedals vs a little more stability of a low BB.

  54. #54
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    I agree. You'd give a little, and take a little it's a balancing game and I think that Ibis got it right. Overall control of the bike is superb. I have a 5" adjustable seatpost so my CG is plenty low for me. I do prefer the Ibis bb height though.

    I read Dirt Rag review on GF Rosoe and the review said BB height is 12" after sag.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by rzozaya1969
    I think that low BB height might be good for some people, bad for others. I have ridden bikes with low and sort-of-high BB, and liked them both. Only thing to worry about is hitting a rock with the pedals vs a little more stability of a low BB.
    I'll take stability every time. I rarely strike the pedals but I am running a Lyrik up front.
    Bikes are getting lower so we have to get used to it. Its happening across the board from DH to XC. Where I used to ride my Foes like a plow, I need better bike handling on the Mojo. Is that a bad thing? I'd say not as it has translated into better technique in my DH riding as well. BB too low? I'd say its the rider.

  56. #56
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    After this weekend I'll join the "I hate the chainsuck" group too.
    At least 5 times yesterday. grumble
    Fairly new drive train (under 300 miles), and a fresh cleaning and chain lube. I really cannot understand how a frame can create chainsuck, but I've been using the same cranks and der for 4 years and never had this problem on other frames. Only conclusion I can draw is the drive-side chainstay sits so low it's just easier for the chain to get wrapped up in it.

  57. #57
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    Ill chime in here, my complaints:
    1 Carbon fiber is noisy!
    2 having to read moron troller bs about how flexy the bike is
    3 carbon fiber envy from all my friends and people on group rides.

  58. #58
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    I guess Lopes is a moron too...since he thought the original link was to flexy.

  59. #59
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    It is pretty evident who the real moron is.

  60. #60
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    My Mojo is pretty quiet mate. Maybe you pissed someone off and they put some bits in your to make it rattle

  61. #61
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    we're all morons

    too much time spent on mtbr talking bollocks on forums

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzl62
    My Mojo is pretty quiet mate. Maybe you pissed someone off and they put some bits in your to make it rattle

    im jealous man! mine is super loud. i dont think its the carbon per say- but where the carbon touches any metal (link bolts, chain slap). I did try the shake test- nothin in the frame. carbon is so much stiffer than metal that the metal/carbon contact points transmit noise.
    Last edited by dannyjoy; 10-20-2009 at 08:00 PM.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigrocks
    I guess Lopes is a moron too...since he thought the original link was to flexy.
    oh i see so now ive called lopes a moron? quite a stretch dude. how many people are sending their mojo's down A-line? he took a stiff AM bike and turned it into a Mini DH bike.... just by making one link a little stiffer and a different build.... and all you little june bugs think its because the bike was not good to begin with? please.....

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer
    It is pretty evident who the real moron is.
    ....
    Last edited by dannyjoy; 10-21-2009 at 10:29 AM.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzl62
    My Mojo is pretty quiet mate. Maybe you pissed someone off and they put some bits in your to make it rattle

    What he said!
    People who have ridden mine all comment on the quietness...

    I am running an Ibis chain protector, which has not moved at all, which is goodness.


  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by robbieracer
    What he said!
    People who have ridden mine all comment on the quietness...

    I am running an Ibis chain protector, which has not moved at all, which is goodness.

    u talking about the lizards skin ibis chainstay protector model? this is what I have. I wonder why mine is so loud???

  67. #67
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    Do people really think 1/4-1/3 of an inch in BB height will make all the difference with regards to pedal strikes? BB height on a bike like this is adjusting handling traits more than anything else. Run shorter cranks, taller tires, and pedal differently.

  68. #68
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    Danny joy I have a neoprene chainstay protector but I also used a bit of the rubber frame wrap ( the kind that sticks to itself) underneath. So where the the chain is closest there is two layers. I did this to make absolutely sure I didn't mess up the clear coat in the "heat of battle" I have also removed a couple of links once I had checked and ridden the bike in anger. Add to this a simple lower roller type chain device and a custom 26 36 chain ring setup. The cable cross over on the top tube and I have a strip of helicopter tape under neath the cables. SRAM drive trains seem to be quieter too compared to Shimano. I also had a small piece of rubber on the front mech again to reduce noise but to be honest the lower roller stops the chain moving too much and building up any unnecessary flapping.

    All in all the bike is pretty quiet, chainsuck almost eliminated in all but the most extreme circumstances and the drive train ratios mean good climbing without running out of gears on the descents whilst still being compact enough to clear obstacles.

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by woogie11
    Do people really think 1/4-1/3 of an inch in BB height will make all the difference with regards to pedal strikes? BB height on a bike like this is adjusting handling traits more than anything else. Run shorter cranks, taller tires, and pedal differently.
    personally i dont have a pedal clearance issue- and i run 177 xtr cranks and ride really rocky sierra buttes.. standard 140 fox and maxxis minion tires. we might just have to chalk it up to riding style and personal preference. my opinion is that the mojo is taller than any other specialized i have owned. i do tend to pump and manual rather than gaining speed with pedal strokes....

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzl62
    Danny joy I have a neoprene chainstay protector but I also used a bit of the rubber frame wrap ( the kind that sticks to itself) underneath. So where the the chain is closest there is two layers. I did this to make absolutely sure I didn't mess up the clear coat in the "heat of battle" I have also removed a couple of links once I had checked and ridden the bike in anger. Add to this a simple lower roller type chain device and a custom 26 36 chain ring setup. The cable cross over on the top tube and I have a strip of helicopter tape under neath the cables. SRAM drive trains seem to be quieter too compared to Shimano. I also had a small piece of rubber on the front mech again to reduce noise but to be honest the lower roller stops the chain moving too much and building up any unnecessary flapping.

    All in all the bike is pretty quiet, chainsuck almost eliminated in all but the most extreme circumstances and the drive train ratios mean good climbing without running out of gears on the descents whilst still being compact enough to clear obstacles.
    great post. i run a long chain because when i get all zoned out sometimes i cross shift. that could explain a bit more noise. good tip on the rubber chain protector. im runnin the 3 ring xtr set up- my bike is built for epic xc riding only- i need my granny gear on 50 mile rides. a am running xtr- so maybe that is also what is making the bike louder- scram is good stuff too- i just really like the new xtr shifters. it sounds like you put allot of thought into your build..

  71. #71
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    After a major service of my SL with full XTR i got a lot of chainsuck.
    on the third of troubleshooting we think we found the problem. and after reading the above i see many of you have chainsuck, nut not on new component build.

    I think the reason is when the granny is a little worn, in this case mine is 10 months and many miles old, it makes suck in muddy conditions. someone was saying the chain refuses to let go of the chainring and causes the suck. so now i have a new xtr granny and the problem is gone....

  72. #72
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    Running shorter cage RDs wouldn't also help to prevent chainsuck? I run medium cage X0 RDs on both of my bikes and never suffered from that again. But chainsuck was a royal pain in the @ss when I had long cage non-Shadow Shimano RDs. Plus the chain slap was very annoying too.
    Last edited by Black RONIN; 10-26-2009 at 02:10 PM.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black RONIN
    Running shorter cage RDs wouldn't also help to prevent chainsuck? I run medium cage X0 RDs on both of my bikes and never suffered from that again. But chainsuck was a royal pain in the @ss when I had long cage non-Shadow Shimano RDs. Plus the chain snap was very annoying too.
    I'm ready for a new rear derailleur. Can I run a medium cage with a 12-34 cassette? I have chain suck and slap and all that!
    I'm unique, just like everyone else....

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by BunnV
    I'm ready for a new rear derailleur. Can I run a medium cage with a 12-34 cassette? I have chain suck and slap and all that!
    A medium will work, but might not work if you run 3X9, 2X9 works for sure.

  75. #75
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    I run a medium cage on a 3x9, takes some getting used too. You can't use the bottom sprockets on the rear (the 3 smallest ones) You have to use your big ring much more, which isn't a problem for me because I use that gear anyway. If you learn how to adapt its fine. Sometimes the chain sucks when it drops from second to first on the front deraileur but a quick backpedal fixes it.

  76. #76
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    I use 3x9 too and no problems. Like Yody said, you just have to get used to it. But this way you can run your chain a little tighter and more stretched instead of hanging it loose and bouncing. Also, it fells like the shifting works better, the chain seems to pass smoother through the cogs. I usually use a 4x1 cog-chainring match: the 4 lower cogs with the biggest chainring, from the 3rd to the 6th cog with the middle ring and from the 6th up with the smallest chainring. It works pretty well, because this way you can always keep the chain stretched at the right point. But note that on the 4th cog when your on the big chainring and on biggest cog when onthe small chainring you are at the limit, so you might want to go up or down to the middle chainring before shifting up or down one more cog.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black RONIN
    Guess this is a problem with most multi-linkage systems. FSR, VPP and so it seems the DW link as well, although I haven't experienced that on my Mojo yet. Chain suck and chain drop was the reason I sold my two Specialized bikes, among other issues. Guess that's why I like single-pivot bikes so much. The rear can stiff under hard braking, but that's a minor compromisse in trade of a more flowing ride.
    I have had my Ventana El Saltamontest for 4yrs and I don't think I have ever had chainsuck. My friend has had two different Turner Flux and I don't think he has either. I sure hope this isn't something about the Mojo design that is causing this.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by lemmy999
    I have had my Ventana El Saltamontest for 4yrs and I don't think I have ever had chainsuck. My friend has had two different Turner Flux and I don't think he has either. I sure hope this isn't something about the Mojo design that is causing this.
    Both my 575 and Mojo never had chainsuck issues. But my two FSR bikes were plagued by chainsuck and chaindrop issues, as well for my VPP bike. Had my NRS for a couple years and never had one single chainsuck issue. Guess it may happen more on some designs than others though. But I suppose there may be other factors that lead to this than a design flaw alone. I'm still a big fan of single-pivot for its simplicity. But my Mojo works like a charm, so I guess I can't say nothing but good things about it so far.

  79. #79
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    Owned all three and the Mojo was more chainsucky- never had suck on the Salty or Flux. I kept the chain a bit tighter than usual and the drivetrain really clean. Then I went to 2x9 and it was better. G-outs were the worst. I dreaded those till I went to 2x9. i hope a Mojo 29 is in the works to take on the Tallboy and the SF100..

    Quote Originally Posted by lemmy999
    I have had my Ventana El Saltamontest for 4yrs and I don't think I have ever had chainsuck. My friend has had two different Turner Flux and I don't think he has either. I sure hope this isn't something about the Mojo design that is causing this.

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