Upgrading to a V3 or V4 Ripley from a V1?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Upgrading to a V3 or V4 Ripley from a V1?

    Hi all,

    I'm debating upgrading from a V1 Ripley(with a V2 Swingarm) to either a V3 or V4.

    How much of a difference is there between a V3 and V4? I understand the V4 is completely redesigned (and have demo'd it this past weekend - very impressed!) but is the ride quality that much different?

    I'm thinking if I find a good deal on a V3 that is too good to pass up, should I go for it, or hold out awhile for a V4?

    Thanks again!

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    Although the suspension design (DW) and ride characteristics (nimble, FUN) are similar, I've had both and they are very different bikes. Obviously, the geo is very different, with the V4 being much longer in reach and wheelbase, the seat tube being much steeper, and the head tube being a little slacker.

    In short, the V3 IMO is better for flatter, slower trails. The V4 is better for real mountains, where you go up a long way and down a long way. The V4 is much more fun and stable at speed and more comfortable on long, steep climbs with the 76* STA. The V3 is more nimble and climbs great for shorter, punchier climbs. I sold my V3 to a buddy and kinda regret it cuz it was better for DFW trails. But I LOVE the V4 for the kind of trails I ride it on. I rode it for a month or so this past summer in WYO and Utah and I just took it to Sedona and it was stellar out there. So I guess it really depends on your terrain and riding style.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    Although the suspension design (DW) and ride characteristics (nimble, FUN) are similar, I've had both and they are very different bikes. Obviously, the geo is very different, with the V4 being much longer in reach and wheelbase, the seat tube being much steeper, and the head tube being a little slacker.

    In short, the V3 IMO is better for flatter, slower trails. The V4 is better for real mountains, where you go up a long way and down a long way. The V4 is much more fun and stable at speed and more comfortable on long, steep climbs with the 76* STA. The V3 is more nimble and climbs great for shorter, punchier climbs. I sold my V3 to a buddy and kinda regret it cuz it was better for DFW trails. But I LOVE the V4 for the kind of trails I ride it on. I rode it for a month or so this past summer in WYO and Utah and I just took it to Sedona and it was stellar out there. So I guess it really depends on your terrain and riding style.
    I just demo'd the V4 this past weekend in NorCal. Interesting contrast between the two. I'm looking mainly for increased stability. According to your explanation, the V4 is the way to go. Thanks.

  4. #4
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    V4 is a much better bike in almost every area. The only drawback is the steep STA, but you can get an offset post or at least push your seat all the way back. I wouldn't even consider a V3 if you are over 6' too.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

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    You just demoed V4, what did you think?


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    V4 is a much better bike in almost every area. The only drawback is the steep STA, but you can get an offset post or at least push your seat all the way back. I wouldn't even consider a V3 if you are over 6' too.
    The steep STA isn't a drawback for everyone, most seem to really like it. You seem really hung up on this.

    You sure the chainstays aren't too short too?
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBMILES View Post
    You just demoed V4, what did you think?
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    Nothing short of amazing! However, I'm curious how it would compare to the V3, and if I saw a good deal on one, would it be worth getting instead of the V4?

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    I had a chance to demo the V3 LS and the V4. I think if you have steeper descents...go with the V4...if not...the V3. I liked how the V3 pedaled more. It also felt a bit quicker when linking and pumping through S sections. I found a good deal on the V3 and went with that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    The steep STA isn't a drawback for everyone, most seem to really like it. You seem really hung up on this.

    You sure the chainstays aren't too short too?
    STA seems to have a good split on like vs dislike. I'm think that a single degree slacker at 75 would be a much better fit for this short travel bike. Short stays are inline with the style of bike and it's snappy nature. In the XL size only they don't offer the best ballance IMO.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    I had a chance to demo the V3 LS and the V4. I think if you have steeper descents...go with the V4...if not...the V3. I liked how the V3 pedaled more. It also felt a bit quicker when linking and pumping through S sections. I found a good deal on the V3 and went with that.
    OP, listen to this guy, he knows what's up. A bike can't be better in every area, there are always trade-offs. No way is the V4 better in tighter, flatter terrain.
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    A lot of factors. DW Link plus shorter travel you won’t sag as much in the rear. Steep seat angle is going to be more noticeable. I’m on a V3 and have no issues climbing. Really like the pedal position for flatter terrain. I’m sure the V4 would feel great too. Just find I’d have to go to a large to get seated reach. Than the bike is too long for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    A lot of factors. DW Link plus shorter travel you won’t sag as much in the rear. Steep seat angle is going to be more noticeable. I’m on a V3 and have no issues climbing. Really like the pedal position for flatter terrain. I’m sure the V4 would feel great too. Just find I’d have to go to a large to get seated reach. Than the bike is too long for me.
    Top tube is .2” longer on V4 so not totally sure why you’d need more “seated reach”?
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    Thanks guys for all your input - very helpful .

    I'll probably go with the V4.

    The bike I demo'd had XTR and S35 Carbon wheels. In a perfect world this is what I'd have. But in the real world, my moral budget is not that deep..LOL!

    I did ask the Ibis peeps what they suggest for a good, reliable, build and they mentioned the GX. Maybe I can start with the GX and then eventually get the S35s? Although, I heard good things about Ibis' Aluminum wheels so maybe the GX build would be good enough for an "Average Joe" rider such as myself?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    I had a chance to demo the V3 LS and the V4. I think if you have steeper descents...go with the V4...if not...the V3. I liked how the V3 pedaled more. It also felt a bit quicker when linking and pumping through S sections. I found a good deal on the V3 and went with that.
    This is what I've heard others say too.
    Basically the V2/V3 is a slightly better bike for more XC style / trail long rides where the V4 is better in the steeper stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by norbyd View Post
    I did ask the Ibis peeps what they suggest for a good, reliable, build and they mentioned the GX. Maybe I can start with the GX and then eventually get the S35s? Although, I heard good things about Ibis' Aluminum wheels so maybe the GX build would be good enough for an "Average Joe" rider such as myself?
    I would recommend serious consideration of the SLX build as well. It's a little cheaper, likely to be more reliable over the long term, and the 12sp shifting under power is supposedly magical by all accounts. I say this as a GX owner who has been blown away by its performance over almost 400 miles on my Ripley after swearing off SRAM around the 10sp era. The stories about SRAM drivetrains needing constant adjustment as they get older (upper derailleur pivots wearing out?) do nag at me though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by norbyd View Post
    Thanks guys for all your input - very helpful .

    I'll probably go with the V4.

    The bike I demo'd had XTR and S35 Carbon wheels. In a perfect world this is what I'd have. But in the real world, my moral budget is not that deep..LOL!

    I did ask the Ibis peeps what they suggest for a good, reliable, build and they mentioned the GX. Maybe I can start with the GX and then eventually get the S35s? Although, I heard good things about Ibis' Aluminum wheels so maybe the GX build would be good enough for an "Average Joe" rider such as myself?
    start with nx but ask for gx cassette and bike yoke dropper 180mm. try to negotiate to have this included for base NX price, some shops will do that.
    than sell your wheelset/tires and get one of the chiners sets and bonty xr4 tires. then swap brakes for something like tpr slate. get carbon crankset and bars from pinkbike. sell original brakes bars and cranks as new takeoffs. if you do it right you will stay at around 4.2k nx price, but have roughly 27lbs all carbon build.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cavo View Post
    start with nx but ask for gx cassette and bike yoke dropper 180mm. try to negotiate to have this included for base NX price, some shops will do that.
    than sell your wheelset/tires and get one of the chiners sets and bonty xr4 tires. then swap brakes for something like tpr slate. get carbon crankset and bars from pinkbike. sell original brakes bars and cranks as new takeoffs. if you do it right you will stay at around 4.2k nx price, but have roughly 27lbs all carbon build.
    I wonder how good the brakes are with the NX build? I would go with XT eventually if the brakes on original build suck. I do not like Carbon Cranks. Thanks for the input!

  18. #18
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    Shimano 12 speed is the bomb.

    Go with an XT or SLX (or mix) build. Super smooth shifting under power with Shimano quality.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cavo View Post
    start with nx but ask for gx cassette and bike yoke dropper 180mm. try to negotiate to have this included for base NX price, some shops will do that.
    than sell your wheelset/tires and get one of the chiners sets and bonty xr4 tires. then swap brakes for something like tpr slate. get carbon crankset and bars from pinkbike. sell original brakes bars and cranks as new takeoffs. if you do it right you will stay at around 4.2k nx price, but have roughly 27lbs all carbon build.
    that's ... a lot of work. and an NX build will come with the old Shimano HG freehub not the XD freehub needed to run a GX cassette. the shop can spec whatever length BY dropper you want however, just need to verify that it will work for your frame size and saddle height.

  20. #20
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    Their aluminum wheels with the Ibis hubs are bulletproof. I have a set I put over 5,000 miles on before I even broke a spoke. The hub is still in great condition.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GiddyHitch View Post
    that's ... a lot of work. and an NX build will come with the old Shimano HG freehub not the XD freehub needed to run a GX cassette. the shop can spec whatever length BY dropper you want however, just need to verify that it will work for your frame size and saddle height.
    thats why i recommended going GX cassette from the beginning, so you dont have to mess up with shimano hub. not a lot of work really, just need to plan a few things ahead.

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    i cant tell on the brakes on NX build, never used them, i dont like sram brakes really and these are your entry level brakes so i would not expect much. why dont you like carbon cranks? they will save you a lot of weight and are super stiff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    Top tube is .2” longer on V4 so not totally sure why you’d need more “seated reach”?
    Because the steeper angle doesn't put the seat as far back as the height increases, to the same degree as a slacker seat angle does. When the seat is fully extended, on a slacker seattube, it will be further over the rear tire and essentially have a longer seated reach.

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    Quote Originally Posted by C-H View Post
    Shimano 12 speed is the bomb.

    Go with an XT or SLX (or mix) build. Super smooth shifting under power with Shimano quality.
    What is the level of quality on SLX? I remember back in the day this was the progression of quality if I remember correctly? : LX, DX, XT, and XTR. I think there was a SLX between LX and DX? So SLX is mid-range? Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    Because the steeper angle doesn't put the seat as far back as the height increases, to the same degree as a slacker seat angle does. When the seat is fully extended, on a slacker seattube, it will be further over the rear tire and essentially have a longer seated reach.
    FYI
    Atual STA is 72 +- .5 depending on size. Virtual STA is 76, but it's not measured at the stack height. Almost all manufactures fudge this number to suit their needs.

    The higher you put you seat the slacker it becomes.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

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    Quote Originally Posted by norbyd View Post
    What is the level of quality on SLX? I remember back in the day this was the progression of quality if I remember correctly? : LX, DX, XT, and XTR. I think there was a SLX between LX and DX? So SLX is mid-range? Thanks!
    SLX replaced LX and sits in the same place in the hierarchy (just below XT). Typically, it's functionally the same as XT but with less premium materials and finishes, and sometimes increased weight. I only notice the difference on shifter levers where XT will have a metal downshift lever but SLX will have a plastic one (though 12sp XT has plastic I think).

    DX is now Deore.

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