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  1. #1
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    Thoughts on Ibis Mojo SL wheel choices?

    I'm configuring and pricing up a new Mojo SL, and I'm stuck at the wheels. Here's where I've gotten so far:

    I want a SRAM 2x10 (26/39) group. I'm trying to keep the cost down, which means X9 rather than XX (really wish Ibis offered a X0 build kit though). I priced up the Ibis X9 parts spec on a couple of those "configure the bike yourself" websites, substituting similar parts where there was no exact match. The Ibis X9 build came in at $3999 with the 2 upgrades I definitely want - IS110 headset and TALAS 32 150 fork. The other websites came in about $1k more, so it seems that the Ibis X9 build is a damn good deal. And it should suit my needs just fine. So to keep the price down I'm going with the Ibis X9 build bought through my LBS, and not going crazy with custom parts picks. The only real sacrifice is no Kashima coating on the TALAS fork, but I do get the special 150/130 travel version from Ibis, so I can live with that.

    So that brings me to the wheels. Because I'm going with the Ibis build to keep the price down, my wheel choices are limited - the stock Ibis hubs with Stan's flow rims, or the Cobalts/Iodines at a $445 upgrade cost (which seems reasonable). Here are some thoughts and questions:

    - Stock Ibis hubs with Stan's Flow rims. I think I read somewhere that these weigh around 1800 grams, so in between the Cobalt and Iodine. The Flow rims are solid, but I'm concerned about the reliability/durability/performance of those no-name hubs. Anyone have good or bad experiences with these wheels? Also, any idea how many engagement points on the Ibis rear hub? I'd love to save $445 and keep these wheels if they are decent.

    - Crank Bros Cobalt. The lightest of the bunch at 1560 grams, but how much of a beating will these wheels take? I'm not super heavy at 175 lbs, and have never been one to bust up wheels, but I ride some rough rocky trails and expect to be bombing them much more on my new Mojo than my current circa-1999 DBR XR-4. So I need wheels that will hold up. I've read that these wheels have had issues with freehubs breaking, but apparently that has been corrected by Crank Brothers. The Crank Bros hubs have 48 engagement points, which should give very fast engagement, so that part is good.

    - Crank Brothers Iodine. The heaviest option at 1920 grams. 0.8 lbs heaver than the Cobalts, that is pretty significant. But they should be the most durable of the three options, and the burnt orange color looks sweet with matte carbon frame. Although I have read complaints that they seal poorly and require frequent bearing service.

    Would appreciate any help I can get in making this decision. Last step before I pull the trigger!

  2. #2
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    Reputation: Diesel~'s Avatar
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    Save your $ and stick with the stock Ibis wheels. POE tends to be overblown, and the $450 would go a long way toward a new wheelset in a few years. At that point, you can get exactly what you want. Crank Bros products in general don't have the best reputation for reliability, though they do seem to have good CS, from what I've heard.

    -D

  3. #3
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    I am a big fan of sram and the x9 doesn't disappoint, the x0 is great though. I have x9 on tranny and x0 on mojo, but I believe you should spend good money on wheels... It's a noticeable difference. My kids hardtails have cobalts and while most of the rest of the bikes are stock even they rave about the difference. I own cobalts, tricons and xt ust sets and the tricons and cobalts are impressive but the tricons are stiffer. If the haven weren't champagne I'd have a set of those to try. Again, imo, ust is the way to go and a great wheelset that is beefy enough for your intended use but as light as you can go with a great hub feels fantastic. The xg999 cassette is worth the cash imo too. Then again, I have all the tools to build them up so I can really poach for deals and coupons to make the prices reasonable.

    edit: oh and just in case, F - stans rims.
    note to self, do not read rider down forum.

  4. #4
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    I swapped the stocks out for a pair of stans ztrs laced to crests-I think on stans website they clock in at 1750 or something. I weigh 190 fully loaded and they rock-the 20mm axle is megastiff.
    Ibis 2012 SL-R
    Ibis 2010 Mojo SL
    Fat City Cycles 93' Yo Eddy!
    Fat City Cycles 91' Wicked Fat Chance
    DB 89' Ascent EX

  5. #5
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    Ibis wheels

    [QUOTE=trenchDiggr]I'm configuring and pricing up a new Mojo SL, and I'm stuck at the wheels. Here's where I've gotten so far:

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    PM sent.

  6. #6
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    Appreciate the input. I've decided to go with the stock wheels as it appears they will be tough and durable enough for a while. I'll use the money I save from passing on the wheel upgrade to buy a dropper post. Looking at the new Rock Shox Reverb.

  7. #7
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    I have been running CB Iodines for about 6/12 and given them a good beating in dry and muddy conditions. No problems so far. They are very stiff despite having 9mm QR front and rear. Weight wise I certainly feel the difference to my old wheelset, but that is not surprising. I had Mavic 717s running Stans tape and 2.35 High Roller tubed tires. They were surprisingly durable despite being skinny. I started with 2.0 tires, but kept upsizing as I realised the potential to go bigger on the Mojo. Now on 2.35 true tubeless and very happy. Yes I feel it going uphill, but that is all. On variable terrain the extra speed you carry into tech and rolling terrain easily compensates.

    In short, not light, but very happy.

  8. #8
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    Reputation: getbusyliving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trenchDiggr
    I'll use the money I save from passing on the wheel upgrade to buy a dropper post. Looking at the new Rock Shox Reverb.
    FYI my buddy just got the Reverb post and although it seems solid and the remote is really nice, it rises too slowly, even when you crank it to the fastest setting. Slower than any of the other dropper posts I've tried. Also drops slowly. Maybe I'd get used to it, but buyer beware.

  9. #9
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    Too bad Ibis doesn't use a lighter hub like American Classic or NoTubes ZTR and offer the NoTubes 355 or Crest rim. The Flow is overkill for the Mojo SL (I use Flows for DH racing).
    Keep the Country country.

  10. #10
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    The flows are definitely overkill for me since I've been riding Bontrager Race Lite's for several years without issue. I still got the X9 build without upgrading the wheels because I liked all of the other components and the Crank Bros wheels (while nice) weren't my first choice in an upgrade (I'm lusting after Stans 35's on red Industry Nine hubs).

    I've had 7 rides on my new Ibis and I don't mind having the width of the flows and the not-so-light El Moco's running at fairly low pressure in the messy wet fall conditions. I may just keep these wheels for messy crappy wet conditions when I upgrade the wheels and put lighter, more fair-weather tires on the light-weight wheels. Not sure exactly how that's going to work yet. When I've changed back and forth with wheelsets before, I've kept a cassette/chain combo for each wheelset and changed them back and forth, but you can't undo a 10-speed powerlink. Maybe I'll have to change the cassette back and forth.

  11. #11
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    What's the weight for the Ibis hubs?

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