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Thread: Ripmo AF Thread

  1. #1401
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Yeah .. but it's out of stock and they increased the price from 20 to 50 usd

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    ah ok, gotcha. wonder if Ibis has anything in works.

  2. #1402
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavo View Post
    ah ok, gotcha. wonder if Ibis has anything in works.
    That would be cool .. maybe replacement for ripmo cr can fit the ripmo af

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  3. #1403
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    In other news, the top tube frame protection option worked out much better.






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  4. #1404
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    like the decals tanman looks cool might do that myself......
    https://www.fanatikbike.com/products/ibis-rock-guard-for-ripmo
    go down to the questions and they say the carbon frame guard wont fit the af....

  5. #1405
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    6 ride review

    Probably not adding anything new, but thought I'd chime in after ~6 good rides.

    I'm 170lbs, 5'10", coming from more "xc" side rather than the dh side, but starting to think I'm a pretty good rider for a weekend warrior. Have ridden what's dry in CO front range and 3 days in Moab. Will say I haven't had much time on full suspension for last few years, so of course I'm more blown away than someone coming from something more comparable - so many good bikes these days that it comes down to preference of what you want it to feel like (and budget).

    Size L, SLX build fully stock, Jade X Coil with 450lb spring, stock Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2/Nobby Nic 2.6 combo. Have a size medium Vittoria Air Liner in the rear, which is a little undersized but it's what I got.

    LOVE the bike. Can't imagine the combo of active suspension/great pedaling getting any better, feels like magic. It's good at low speed tech, but DAMN I haven't found the upper speed limit on chunk yet. Feels so good. It's really addicting. I keep finding new levels every ride.

    DVO suspension: Love it. Plush off top and supportive in mid stroke, needed a couple clicks HSC to resist blowing through travel and now feels so good. I like going above recommendation on OTT. Coil is GOOD. Just enough preload to lock coil in place. Find myself looking for rock gardens to blast and like I said haven't found the speed limit yet. Fun to really pump the rear off of small features to get some air. Plush, controlled landings and no problem with bottom out feel.

    SLX: Very smooth. Doesn't quite have the same snap-snap of GX on my other bike, but that's a trade off for the downshifting under power. I think when the chain transitions while engaged on two cogs at once it loses a little of that snap, but doesn't have any practical effect and you can keep the power on. Brakes are great, haven't thought about them much at all which I'd say is a good sign. Haven't been able to ride a 1000ft+ descent yet.

    Schwalbe tires: I'm prob the only one that ordered the Schwalbe's with the coil build, but Assegais are just too much tire for me. I wanna go fast and far and felt the Ass-guys were a drag on my demo ride. Came down to having to replace a tire either way - either a new rear with the Assegais or a new front with the Schwalbes. Going to get a 2.5 DHF up front. I'm working on really leaning the bike independently from my body and want to be better rewarded with those DHF cornering lugs and open transition channel. HD2 isn't bad, and I feel quick on this combo, but will just wear out the NN on the rear then put the HD2 on back there which will be pretty good. Maybe Dissector eventually. Rear insert is great, allowing me to run 20psi both f and r which is excellent and no rim strikes yet. Would recommend size L air liner for 2.6 to help with sidewall support.

    Geometry: Taking some getting used to climbing with the steep seat angle, mostly to get used to how easy it is to maintain traction. It's a very comfortable, balanced position. Don't notice a negative effect on pedally sections. Hardly think about the head tube angle, except in 2 situations - 1 when it's saving my bacon on something steep and scary and 2 when the steering kinda "cuts in" unexpectedly when I don't have perfect form on a low speed DH switchback. It's a technique thing and like I said I'm trying to get better at leaning the bike more than the body, every turn.

    Little things: Really like the Ibis grips. Have stock alloy bar which I was going to replace but haven't felt the need yet. Bottle cage is really far down. Put some frame protection tape on which is already chewed up around the BB. Never notice bike being heavy, and haven't felt a need for shock lock out except on road climbs.

    Overall: Can't believe how good a stock build is. Never had a bike where I don't want to change anything (except maybe a tire). Would have PR'd a big climb the other day but took a turn off the main segment, but was up like 15 seconds per Strava "compare" feature. I've ridden that climb a bunch of times on hardtails and a cx bike and the Ripmo just felt so good that I wanted to hammer harder. High speed descents are insane, it's taking me a while for my line-reading to adjust and to figure out where the limits are, which was the point of buying this bike. Cornering is so awesome with modern technique, having a blast trying to pump flat corners. Bike feels so normal and natural, but then there are extra levels of capability there waiting for you. It's perfect? Where do bikes go from here?

  6. #1406
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    Awesome review man! Glad you like it. The only improvements from here I could see some day are shaving off a bit of weight and maybe a gear box (gears exposed to the dirt just doesn't make sense to me after all these decades of development). One of the biggest things I felt, besides the awesome pedalling feel, was how stable the bike is in corners and on moderate sized doubles. It just rails. It's very hard to "upset" the bike on jumps. Most modern slack 29ers are like this but some are mushy with no pop. A few I demo'd would kick sideways oddly if you didn't have just the right takeoff. Not the Ripmo. Stable, poppy, easy! Such a good bike.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  7. #1407
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    Sfr4dr interesting, what other bikes did you demo?

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  8. #1408
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    Got out on my new AF for the first time this weekend. I was planning a review in my head, but the above totally sums it up for me. Just a perfect bike. Iím an XC guy from way back who is looking to go a little bigger after moving to British Columbia. I feel like I can take the AF anywhere my skills can handle while itís also totally at home on less rowdy trails. Mineís a kinda custom build with XT 12s on a silver frame with Diamond/Topaz and some Minions as a sort of ďcontrol tireí. Love this bike.

  9. #1409
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    Zee cage slid all the way down, 22oz bottle.

  10. #1410
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    It sucks seeing bottles fit for others. I have a first batch bike with the bug gusset at the bottom and cant fit one.

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  11. #1411
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    It sucks seeing bottles fit for others. I have a first batch bike with the bug gusset at the bottom and cant fit one.

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    Iím surprised yours doesnít fit a bottle cage. Technically I could slide my bottle cage up closer to the shock and have more room where the gusset would sit. Which bottle cages have you tried?

  12. #1412
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    I have a new from Jenson 550x2.5 LS spring if anyone is trying to source one. $90 shipped USPS priority mail

  13. #1413
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Iím surprised yours doesnít fit a bottle cage. Technically I could slide my bottle cage up closer to the shock and have more room where the gusset would sit. Which bottle cages have you tried?
    I have a z cage. The cage fits but a normal bottle won't

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  14. #1414
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    I have a z cage. The cage fits but a normal bottle won't

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    Try a different cage. I have a gussetted model in size large and it fits fine with clearance below cage and above bottle. Leyzne side mount.

    Ripmo AF Thread-fde80198-e501-4afa-ae5b-3084d4319b02.jpg

  15. #1415
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    I'm also on a medium. I think I'll just have to use a smaller bottle

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  16. #1416
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post


    Zee cage slid all the way down, 22oz bottle.
    What size frame are you on?

    I pull the trigger on a RAF then check the Ibis site.
    Scary times we are headed to




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  17. #1417
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    I'm also on a medium. I think I'll just have to use a smaller bottle

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    I posted about this before, but on medium I can only fit 22oz bottle, even without gusset frame. Most pictures here show 22oz bottle, which is a smaller bottle. Full size bottle is 26oz.

  18. #1418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    What size frame are you on?

    I pull the trigger on a RAF then check the Ibis site.
    Scary times we are headed to




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    Large

  19. #1419
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    What size frame are you on?

    I pull the trigger on a RAF then check the Ibis site.
    Scary times we are headed to




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    Yeah.. let's hope, everyone is safe .. I would not be able to ride it either so..

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  20. #1420
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    Quote Originally Posted by eonicks View Post
    Try a different cage. I have a gussetted model in size large and it fits fine with clearance below cage and above bottle. Leyzne side mount.

    Eonicks, what model of Lezyne cage is that? I see on their site they have the Flow Cage SL and SL Advanced versions... Not sure what the differences are from the descriptions. Thanks!

  21. #1421
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    Anyone have an issue with the rear axle backing out? I understand I can loctite it but it is concerning.

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  22. #1422
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    Anyone have an issue with the rear axle backing out? I understand I can loctite it but it is concerning.

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    I haven't had any issues with that yet, I did have it too tight and was getting some awful noises from the rear hub. Guess i was compressing the internals. Backing it off and torquing to 5nm and all is quiet again.

  23. #1423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    Anyone have an issue with the rear axle backing out? I understand I can loctite it but it is concerning.

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    Just had my first experience with this yesterday on my ride. Heard a bit of a clunking noise while descending a short section. Pulled over and wiggled my rear wheel and sure enough there was play. Pulled out the 5mm Allen and sure enough it was almost a full turn loose.

  24. #1424
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    I haven't had any issues with that yet, I did have it too tight and was getting some awful noises from the rear hub. Guess i was compressing the internals. Backing it off and torquing to 5nm and all is quiet again.
    5nm is all it needs? I know the front is 7nm. Just got my 1/4" torque wrench so I want to torque everything to spec now Lol

  25. #1425
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    Always important to torque.

    While we are on subject of issues, anyone experience their Diamond forks creaking or clicking? This happened to me on my 3rd ride. After some jarring descent, noticed the front end creaked a lot. Someone else was commenting the Diamonds feels flexy?

    I stopped and did the old static pumping using the handlebars and could duplicate the clicks or creaks with each movement. Creaks continued until the end of my ride. It almost sounded like the creaks that Rockshox crowns used to have.

    Back home now in the shed and try as I might, the forks now feel solid no matter how I try to pump it up and down. Did the old rock back and forth while front brakes are applied and nothing. What gives? Maybe it only clicks when ďwarmedĒ up?


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  26. #1426
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    5nm is all it needs? I know the front is 7nm. Just got my 1/4" torque wrench so I want to torque everything to spec now Lol
    Honestly I'm not sure, Ibis says to tighten it with your multitool... I figure if it rattles loose then ill try 6nm or 7nm. That was a few rough rides ago so the 5nm seem good so far.

  27. #1427
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Always important to torque.

    While we are on subject of issues, anyone experience their Diamond forks creaking or clicking? This happened to me on my 3rd ride. After some jarring descent, noticed the front end creaked a lot. Someone else was commenting the Diamonds feels flexy?

    I stopped and did the old static pumping using the handlebars and could duplicate the clicks or creaks with each movement. Creaks continued until the end of my ride. It almost sounded like the creaks that Rockshox crowns used to have.

    Back home now in the shed and try as I might, the forks now feel solid no matter how I try to pump it up and down. Did the old rock back and forth while front brakes are applied and nothing. What gives? Maybe it only clicks when ďwarmedĒ up?


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    I would pull the fork out of the frame and grease the headset bearings. Possible they were under-greased when assembling the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    Honestly I'm not sure, Ibis says to tighten it with your multitool... I figure if it rattles loose then ill try 6nm or 7nm. That was a few rough rides ago so the 5nm seem good so far.
    Gotcha. Since they don't have a spec, tightening until it doesn't come loose anymore seems like the right way to do it.

  28. #1428
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Same, $21 shipped. Someone mustíve got an influx of sales and decided to jack up the price
    Hey guys -

    I am Tim, one of the owners of Esker. I wanted to let you guys know we would love to help you out, but we had to jack up the price to prevent our entire stock from being depleted.

    We are a very small company, much smaller than Ibis. We appreciate the excitement for our guard, but we feared that this promotion may deplete our entire stock way too fast. We were only stocking this for replacements on our frames, so we intended to sell maybe 50 of these all year.

    We don't want to rip anyone off, but to prevent our entire stock from being ordered up, we had to artificially increase the price. We do not intend to sell any at that price, we just did it to keep the demand measured. If you need one of these, we would be glad to sell it to you for the normal price of $20, just give us an email or a call, so that we can keep our stock levels in check.

    We also reached out to Ibis a few weeks ago when this was first posted, because this part is made at a common vendor that every bike brand in the world uses for rubber parts, saddles and grips. We were hoping to help them just order them directly for you guys, but sadly we didn't get a call back. If anyone from Ibis reads this, give me a call, we are happy to help.
    Tires for real rides: www.terrenetires.com

  29. #1429
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    Thanks Tim for trying to help,Hope Ibis see this post.

  30. #1430
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    Quote Originally Posted by chequamagon View Post
    Hey guys -

    I am Tim, one of the owners of Esker. I wanted to let you guys know we would love to help you out, but we had to jack up the price to prevent our entire stock from being depleted.

    We are a very small company, much smaller than Ibis. We appreciate the excitement for our guard, but we feared that this promotion may deplete our entire stock way too fast. We were only stocking this for replacements on our frames, so we intended to sell maybe 50 of these all year.

    We don't want to rip anyone off, but to prevent our entire stock from being ordered up, we had to artificially increase the price. We do not intend to sell any at that price, we just did it to keep the demand measured. If you need one of these, we would be glad to sell it to you for the normal price of $20, just give us an email or a call, so that we can keep our stock levels in check.

    We also reached out to Ibis a few weeks ago when this was first posted, because this part is made at a common vendor that every bike brand in the world uses for rubber parts, saddles and grips. We were hoping to help them just order them directly for you guys, but sadly we didn't get a call back. If anyone from Ibis reads this, give me a call, we are happy to help.
    I applaud your transparency and want to say thank you for posting here.

    By Ripmo is currently in limbo given the current Covid-19 situation. My order was placed with Ibis less than 24hrs before the lockdown.

    But once I have a set delivery schedule I will be calling you for one of your frame guards.


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  31. #1431
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    Quote Originally Posted by chequamagon View Post
    Hey guys -

    I am Tim, one of the owners of Esker. I wanted to let you guys know we would love to help you out, but we had to jack up the price to prevent our entire stock from being depleted.

    We are a very small company, much smaller than Ibis. We appreciate the excitement for our guard, but we feared that this promotion may deplete our entire stock way too fast. We were only stocking this for replacements on our frames, so we intended to sell maybe 50 of these all year.

    We don't want to rip anyone off, but to prevent our entire stock from being ordered up, we had to artificially increase the price. We do not intend to sell any at that price, we just did it to keep the demand measured. If you need one of these, we would be glad to sell it to you for the normal price of $20, just give us an email or a call, so that we can keep our stock levels in check.

    We also reached out to Ibis a few weeks ago when this was first posted, because this part is made at a common vendor that every bike brand in the world uses for rubber parts, saddles and grips. We were hoping to help them just order them directly for you guys, but sadly we didn't get a call back. If anyone from Ibis reads this, give me a call, we are happy to help.
    Tim, thank you for reaching out on this forum. Iím sure all here can agree we appreciate the communication and the proposed idea.

    Will be reaching out thru email for sure.

    Címon Ibis, step up your frame protection game here.


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  32. #1432
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I would pull the fork out of the frame and grease the headset bearings. Possible they were under-greased when assembling the bike.



    Gotcha. Since they don't have a spec, tightening until it doesn't come loose anymore seems like the right way to do it.
    I believe the correct torque spec is 10 nm if the AF and OG Ripmo use the same rear axle.

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  33. #1433
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    I believe the correct torque spec is 10 nm if the AF and OG Ripmo use the same rear axle.

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    Cool, thank you for posting that!

  34. #1434
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    Cool, thank you for posting that!
    Ride safe and COVID19 free.

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  35. #1435
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    I found a workable solution to the bottle/pump holder problem. And Wolftoothís Bottleshift ainít it. Great product but just not compatible with OneUpís obstructively shaped pump holder.

    Bottleshift is great in the fact that you have good up down and sideways ďshiftĒ adjustability. You can shift it to the right for your bottle cage to clear the brake and dropper cables. But the right side mounting holes of the Bottleshift also means the pump holder jugs out too far and touches the crank.



    So pumpholder+ Bottleshift was no go. Tried 3 or 4 different permutations including the enduro setup below, strapping the pump to the frame...



    Uhhmm...no. Donít want to risk losing the pump and my edc tool when the Velcro wears over time.

    Ended up ditching the Bottleshift and just using Wolftooths King Cage on top of the pump holder. Did the trick!



    Enough adjustability in the cage itself to possibly clear a bigger bottle but havenít tried. Here a pic of the smaller bottle. A lot of space still. The pump barely clears the crank but will not contact.



    Took me almost 2 hours to get this to a setup Iím content with. It was all a giant PITA due to the cable and tight clearance to the seat tube . When all is said and done, the unused Bottleshift dog bone might go on my HD3. That bike too has the worse clearance for cages and bottle holder.



    Then I realized I left the Bottleshift torx screws on my King Cage with the AF. Whatever man! Leaving it alone for now!!


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  36. #1436
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    I found a workable solution to the bottle/pump holder problem. And Wolftoothís Bottleshift ainít it. Great product but just not compatible with OneUpís obstructively shaped pump holder.

    Bottleshift is great in the fact that you have good up down and sideways ďshiftĒ adjustability. You can shift it to the right for your bottle cage to clear the brake and dropper cables. But the right side mounting holes of the Bottleshift also means the pump holder jugs out too far and touches the crank.



    So pumpholder+ Bottleshift was no go. Tried 3 or 4 different permutations including the enduro setup below, strapping the pump to the frame...



    Uhhmm...no. Donít want to risk losing the pump and my edc tool when the Velcro wears over time.

    Ended up ditching the Bottleshift and just using Wolftooths King Cage on top of the pump holder. Did the trick!



    Enough adjustability in the cage itself to possibly clear a bigger bottle but havenít tried. Here a pic of the smaller bottle. A lot of space still. The pump barely clears the crank but will not contact.



    Took me almost 2 hours to get this to a setup Iím content with. It was all a giant PITA due to the cable and tight clearance to the seat tube . When all is said and done, the unused Bottleshift dog bone might go on my HD3. That bike too has the worse clearance for cages and bottle holder.



    Then I realized I left the Bottleshift torx screws on my King Cage with the AF. Whatever man! Leaving it alone for now!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Glad you figured something out!

    Found a bit of an oddity on my AF tonight after a bit of discussion with NateMob. My bike came with regular Exo tires, not Exo+. I was wondering why my tires had yellow Maxxis logos and now I know why.

    Pictures for reference...this one is mine



    This is an Exo+ with the red logo


    According to the website the regular Exo tires are 50g lighter but they are 60tpi which is good, more rubber, less threads. Not sure if I should complain about it or leave it be? Kinda stoked on the lighter tires but Iíd hate to puncture one in short order.

  37. #1437
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Glad you figured something out!

    Found a bit of an oddity on my AF tonight after a bit of discussion with NateMob. My bike came with regular Exo tires, not Exo+. I was wondering why my tires had yellow Maxxis logos and now I know why.

    According to the website the regular Exo tires are 50g lighter but they are 60tpi which is good, more rubber, less threads. Not sure if I should complain about it or leave it be? Kinda stoked on the lighter tires but Iíd hate to puncture one in short order.

    EXO+ Versus EXO
    27% increase in puncture protection under tread
    51% increase in sidewall durability
    28% increase in pinch flat resistance
    Approximately 80 grams heavier per tire, depending on tire size
    Small additional cost (~$2 to $5 USD), depending on model

  38. #1438
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Always important to torque.

    While we are on subject of issues, anyone experience their Diamond forks creaking or clicking? This happened to me on my 3rd ride. After some jarring descent, noticed the front end creaked a lot. Someone else was commenting the Diamonds feels flexy?

    I stopped and did the old static pumping using the handlebars and could duplicate the clicks or creaks with each movement. Creaks continued until the end of my ride. It almost sounded like the creaks that Rockshox crowns used to have.

    Back home now in the shed and try as I might, the forks now feel solid no matter how I try to pump it up and down. Did the old rock back and forth while front brakes are applied and nothing. What gives? Maybe it only clicks when ďwarmedĒ up?


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    Mine did this. I was getting a clicking during most compressions from full extension, especailly noticable during repeated fast hits. Ended up being the front brake pads and not the Diamond at all. Also ensure your headset has no play. I was able to duplicate the sound at home by grabbing the front brake, compressing the fork, releasing the brake then lifting the front end up and quickly pushing it down compressing the fork. It would click every single time. You could test for this by doing the above then removing the pads and repeating. I have a video of this I could PM you if needed.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  39. #1439
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    A lot of guys like the regular Exo (non +) Assegai up front since the front doesn't always need the extra protection and then they take the rear Assegai off as new, save for a replacement front and install a new 2.5 Aggressor or 2.4 DHRII in Exo+. I'd be happier with what you got than the dual Assegai Exo+. I still have the stock Assegais on mine and it's too grippy for a rear tire IMO. I like it up front but would prefer a bit less panted tire in the back.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  40. #1440
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Eonicks, what model of Lezyne cage is that? I see on their site they have the Flow Cage SL and SL Advanced versions... Not sure what the differences are from the descriptions. Thanks!
    Itís a Flow Cage SL. Get the right facing. So when you pull the bottle out , you're not against the dropper post cable.

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    SO - any insight on whether Ibis can or will ship bikes and keep the supply chain open to shops that may be dependent on their product? Im truly not calling Ibis out here as it is truly unprecedented and crazy times!!! Would simply love to gain their insight as to when they may be able to get back up and running and fulfill orders.

    I know my shop would love the see the bike he ordered from me - and I'd love to pay him for it in these extraordinarily unsettling times.

    In the end - stay healthy out there and pedal on safely!

  42. #1442
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    SO - any insight on whether Ibis can or will ship bikes and keep the supply chain open to shops that may be dependent on their product? Im truly not calling Ibis out here as it is truly unprecedented and crazy times!!! Would simply love to gain their insight as to when they may be able to get back up and running and fulfill orders.

    I know my shop would love the see the bike he ordered from me - and I'd love to pay him for it in these extraordinarily unsettling times.

    In the end - stay healthy out there and pedal on safely!
    Here ya go, currently not shipping bikes.

    https://www.ibiscycles.com/news/coro...id-19-pandemic

  43. #1443
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    Quote Originally Posted by eonicks View Post
    Itís a Flow Cage SL. Get the right facing. So when you pull the bottle out , you're not against the dropper post cable.
    Thanks! And thanks for the reminder about the dropper cable, I would have probably just gone with preference for the L/R option.

  44. #1444
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    Here ya go, currently not shipping bikes.

    https://www.ibiscycles.com/news/coro...id-19-pandemic
    Unfortunately, I wouldn't expect the businesses that have shut down, to resume any time soon. Especially where the outbreak is still picking up momentum, it's going to take quite a while to stabilize and subside.

  45. #1445
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    Sorry for a lame question, how many headset spacers (and size) came stock on complete builds? Trying to get this built up by the beginning of next month. Iím still trying to figure out how long of a dropper to get.

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    Yep - its tough times for a lot of folks, businesses etc... and looks like a pretty long road to a recovery of any type...

  47. #1447
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau View Post
    Sorry for a lame question, how many headset spacers (and size) came stock on complete builds? Trying to get this built up by the beginning of next month. Iím still trying to figure out how long of a dropper to get.
    I believe 5 x 5mm spacers. That's what arrived on my OG V1.

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  48. #1448
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    A lot of guys like the regular Exo (non +) Assegai up front since the front doesn't always need the extra protection and then they take the rear Assegai off as new, save for a replacement front and install a new 2.5 Aggressor or 2.4 DHRII in Exo+. I'd be happier with what you got than the dual Assegai Exo+. I still have the stock Assegais on mine and it's too grippy for a rear tire IMO. I like it up front but would prefer a bit less panted tire in the back.
    Kinda what I was thinking too. I like having a light tire up front and a heavier duty tire out back.

    Did 13 miles and 3,000ft of climbing today. Iím beat but the bike did great. I hate mud so the first thing I did when I got home was clean/detail it lol




    Anyone else notice that the new SLX build kit has a bit of a blue tint to it?

  49. #1449
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    You guys running any tire inserts? Not sure what ones will fit the wide 35mm ID Ibis rims. On the fence about running a DHR2 dual compound exo 2.4WT with an insert or an exo+ without an insert.

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    I run cushcore front and rear. Forever. And always. I do way too much dumb stuff not to.

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  51. #1451
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Kinda what I was thinking too. I like having a light tire up front and a heavier duty tire out back.

    Did 13 miles and 3,000ft of climbing today. Iím beat but the bike did great. I hate mud so the first thing I did when I got home was clean/detail it lol




    Anyone else notice that the new SLX build kit has a bit of a blue tint to it?
    Yes! When they are not being covered by a fine layer of dry AZ dust I can! Kinda cool actually.

    Your SLX brake master cylinder (or whatever the hell those things the levers are attached to are called) have the same blueish tint.


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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Yes! When they are not being covered by a fine layer of dry AZ dust I can! Kinda cool actually.

    Your SLX brake master cylinder (or whatever the hell those things the levers are attached to are called) have the same blueish tint.


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    Yup, even the cranks have a blue hue to them. It goes well with the bright ass green DVO bits!

  53. #1453
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Mine did this. I was getting a clicking during most compressions from full extension, especailly noticable during repeated fast hits. Ended up being the front brake pads and not the Diamond at all. Also ensure your headset has no play. I was able to duplicate the sound at home by grabbing the front brake, compressing the fork, releasing the brake then lifting the front end up and quickly pushing it down compressing the fork. It would click every single time. You could test for this by doing the above then removing the pads and repeating. I have a video of this I could PM you if needed.
    You are right, the click and almost a small sensation of play can be felt thru the bars. . I thought there was maybe way too many 5mm washers underneath the stem so I consolidated to about 2 or 3 15mm ones, applied grease in between spacers and the stem then retighten to torque spec. Also removed carbon bars to apply carbon paste. All quiet now.

    My pads make a different noise and seem only evident from the rear. Like a metallic ping. Need to research YouTube how they adjust.


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  54. #1454
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    A lot of guys like the regular Exo (non +) Assegai up front since the front doesn't always need the extra protection and then they take the rear Assegai off as new, save for a replacement front and install a new 2.5 Aggressor or 2.4 DHRII in Exo+. I'd be happier with what you got than the dual Assegai Exo+. I still have the stock Assegais on mine and it's too grippy for a rear tire IMO. I like it up front but would prefer a bit less panted tire in the back.
    Whatís everyoneís alternative for the rear tire. Also looking into a lighter rear tire with more rolling speed. Iím concerned the DHR2ís 2.4WT version might look strange or fit too small on the 35mm rims. The next size up is 2.6.

    From Maxxis web, the DHR2 EXO+ is about 115grams lighter. Thatís a quarter pound of reduced rotating mass. Less if you forgo the EXO+.

    Iíve tried Aggressors w only EXO on my HD3, they are garbage in AZ where razor sharp rocks make up majority of the terrain. Going double down would defeat the purpose of changing tires because Iíll be back in neighborhood of the Assegai weight.

    Thoughts?


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  55. #1455
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    Maxx Terra exo+ assegai seems to make sense for the area around where ibis is based. Dry+rocky +loose over hardpack.

    In wet areas they're less than ideal.

  56. #1456
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Whatís everyoneís alternative for the rear tire. Also looking into a lighter rear tire with more rolling speed. Iím concerned the DHR2ís 2.4WT version might look strange or fit too small on the 35mm rims. The next size up is 2.6.

    From Maxxis web, the DHR2 EXO+ is about 115grams lighter. Thatís a quarter pound of reduced rotating mass. Less if you forgo the EXO+.

    Iíve tried Aggressors w only EXO on my HD3, they are garbage in AZ where razor sharp rocks make up majority of the terrain. Going double down would defeat the purpose of changing tires because Iíll be back in neighborhood of the Assegai weight.

    Thoughts?


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    What about a 2.4WT Exo Dissector with XC Cush core? I guess you'd still be around the 1000g mark but you'd get the puncture resistance you need and a fast rolling rear tire. As much as I'd like to save weight on tires, it just might not be an option with how fast this bike makes you want to hit stuff lol. Ultimately faster rolling and durable but as light as it can be will be the best option.

  57. #1457
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    Or a Rekon? Faster rolling than a Dissector. And the 2.6WT Exo+ supposedly weighs under 900g

  58. #1458
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    How much sag have you coil riders found the RipmoAF likes? Thanks!

  59. #1459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooledup View Post
    How much sag have you coil riders found the RipmoAF likes? Thanks!
    I've been running mine at 25% sag and it seems good. So nice to be able to adjust sag on the fly rather than use a shock pump!

  60. #1460
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    Actually, turns out I've been closer to 30%, just checked in the garage. Looks like 1 full rotation on coil preload is 25-30% sag for me, nice to know!

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    Mine is closer to 30 as well.

    I weigh 165 and thatís when kitted up so Iím in the upper ranges of the 400lb spring. Also donít want me to go over the 15mm adjustment (measured at collar I think) limit that DVO recommend when adjusting sag.


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  62. #1462
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Mine is closer to 30 as well.

    I weigh 165 and thatís when kitted up so Iím in the upper ranges of the 400lb spring. Also donít want me to go over the 15mm adjustment (measured at collar I think) limit that DVO recommend when adjusting sag.


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    Ugh really? I weigh about 165 before gear. Just ordered a medium with a coil and I think it comes stock with a 400lb spring. I wonder if thatís going to be enough.


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  63. #1463
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    first thing ive noticed i have to run the dropper out the left side of the frame as the two ports come out that side gutted the right hand side port cant take two cables that is annoying as i run on right front brake shifter left rear brake and dropper

  64. #1464
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Ugh really? I weigh about 165 before gear. Just ordered a medium with a coil and I think it comes stock with a 400lb spring. I wonder if thatís going to be enough.


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    If you are 165 before, youíll be 175 after gear. The Jade spring wt guide on the AF setup page has that at 450lbs.

    So itís not entirely dependent on frame size. Your LBS/dealer should have asked what your weight is and would have communicated that to Ibis on ordering.

    Though Iím in the upper weight range of a 400 spring, Iíve yet to bottom out and found it supportive enough even in the open setting.


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  65. #1465
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    Can someone talk some sense into me?

    I've just got back into MTB 8 months ago at the age of 34 after an 18 year hiatus. I've never ridden a full suspension bike. Been messing around on a 2nd hand Trek Roscoe 8 (literally only half decent MTB that came up 2nd had within a tight budget last year) and have discovered that I love riding drops, jumps, downhill, gnar etc but need to be able to peddle to the trails and back up to the top as well as keep up on leisurely group XC rides with mates. Focus is on the downs but not dying on the climbs (a lot of the trails we have here are short punchy climbs followed by fun descents, rinse and repeat). I also rode in a Downhill race a month ago and loved it (even on the 120mm Roscoe and I don't come last despite braking a rib in practice) and think I want to race more on future, probably Enduro (just for fun).

    I've had my heart set on the Ripmo AF since it was released and can get an NX build for a fair price in Singapore where I live.
    Basically, no other FS bike I can get here for the same price can get close to it (as far as my research goes)

    However... For the same price I can get a bat-shit crazy hardcore hardtail from Chromag delivered, also NX build but with the Lyrik fork. The Doctorhawk: It's a 180mm 62į HA 29er steel hardtail (yeah... Bat-shit crazy) and there is something about mental hardtails that are attractive to me (must be coz I'm originally from the UK?!) And probably it's an ego thing to be "that crazy fella on a hardtail"

    Question is, for those of you that ride both hardtails and FS: how much better is a full sus? Is it night and day? Am I dumb for even comparing these two bikes? (I think I know the answer to this last one - these aren't comparable bikes at all...)

    Help talk some sense into me!

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  66. #1466
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    If you want gnar, Enduro , downhill ish... Ripmo. You won't win xc races but who cares

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  67. #1467
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    If you want gnar, Enduro , downhill ish... Ripmo. You won't win xc races but who cares

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    To be fair, don't think I'd be winning any XC races on a 180mm steel hardtail with 62į HA either...

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  68. #1468
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    Can someone talk some sense into me?

    I've just got back into MTB 8 months ago at the age of 34 after an 18 year hiatus. I've never ridden a full suspension bike. Been messing around on a 2nd hand Trek Roscoe 8 (literally only half decent MTB that came up 2nd had within a tight budget last year) and have discovered that I love riding drops, jumps, downhill, gnar etc but need to be able to peddle to the trails and back up to the top as well as keep up on leisurely group XC rides with mates. Focus is on the downs but not dying on the climbs (a lot of the trails we have here are short punchy climbs followed by fun descents, rinse and repeat). I also rode in a Downhill race a month ago and loved it (even on the 120mm Roscoe and I don't come last despite braking a rib in practice) and think I want to race more on future, probably Enduro (just for fun).

    I've had my heart set on the Ripmo AF since it was released and can get an NX build for a fair price in Singapore where I live.
    Basically, no other FS bike I can get here for the same price can get close to it (as far as my research goes)

    However... For the same price I can get a bat-shit crazy hardcore hardtail from Chromag delivered, also NX build but with the Lyrik fork. The Doctorhawk: It's a 180mm 62į HA 29er steel hardtail (yeah... Bat-shit crazy) and there is something about mental hardtails that are attractive to me (must be coz I'm originally from the UK?!) And probably it's an ego thing to be "that crazy fella on a hardtail"

    Question is, for those of you that ride both hardtails and FS: how much better is a full sus? Is it night and day? Am I dumb for even comparing these two bikes? (I think I know the answer to this last one - these aren't comparable bikes at all...)

    Help talk some sense into me!

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    Personally Iíd rather be over biked for stuff I donít enjoy as much (climbing, XC pedally stuff) and perfectly biked for stuff I do enjoy (downhill, jumps, drops etc).

  69. #1469
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    What he said. ^

    Was in a private discussion w a forum member regarding the merits and demerits of the AF.

    Itís definitely overbuilt for xc or flat terrain. Especially the coil. And when climbs become long and sustained you find yourself losing ground (not a lot depending on your fitness) to say, someone on a sub 28lb Carbon full sus. But there really isnít a lot of long sustained climbs in SG. I know, because Iím a Singaporean whoís living in the US now.

    The merits- definitely great value in frame (great geo, rear sus kinematics) and suspension components alone. And from what I read about your own preference you just need a machine that can get you to the top decent enough and then bomb down with aplomb- The AF is it for you IMO.


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  70. #1470
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    I think of the AF as more of an enduro bike that happens to pedal well due to the DW link. I say buy the bike for what you like to ride then live with it for what you donít enjoy as much.

  71. #1471
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    What he said. ^

    Was in a private discussion w a forum member regarding the merits and demerits of the AF.

    Itís definitely overbuilt for xc or flat terrain. Especially the coil. And when climbs become long and sustained you find yourself losing ground (not a lot depending on your fitness) to say, someone on a sub 28lb Carbon full sus. But there really isnít a lot of long sustained climbs in SG. I know, because Iím a Singaporean whoís living in the US now.

    The merits- definitely great value in frame (great geo, rear sus kinematics) and suspension components alone. And from what I read about your own preference you just need a machine that can get you to the top decent enough and then bomb down with aplomb- The AF is it for you IMO.


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    Well , I have a trail bike 130mm carbon . And of course on climbs with my friends I'm usually the 1st at the top .
    The issue comes whe trails go rough I'm the last one down .
    So I see ripmo af has a slow up fast down machine .. meaning to have fun on the downs .. but doesn't kill me on the way up.
    Maybe what you need is a trail bike and not a enduro machine

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    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  72. #1472
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Well , I have a trail bike 130mm carbon . And of course on climbs with my friends I'm usually the 1st at the top .
    The issue comes whe trails go rough I'm the last one down .
    So I see ripmo af has a slow up fast down machine .. meaning to have fun on the downs .. but doesn't kill me on the way up.
    Maybe what you need is a trail bike and not a enduro machine

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    Oh nooo. Iím pretty happy with my Mini DH rig. So plush and so fast on the chunks.....
    If I want a trail bike, Iíll jump on my HD3.

    Itís Tomahawk you need to convince


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  73. #1473
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Oh nooo. Iím pretty happy with my Mini DH rig. So plush and so fast on the chunks.....
    If I want a trail bike, Iíll jump on my HD3.

    Itís Tomahawk you need to convince


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    Thanks all for the great advice!
    Although I think I wasn't very good good at explaining myself: slow up fast down is fine by me! The fact the Ripmo AF pedals well is a bonus.

    I'm certainly not looking for an XC or a trail bike: if anything I imagine the Doctorhawk is going to be worse at climbing than the Ripmo AF: it's steel, weighs about as much as the AF, has a rediculously slack head angle, huge wheelbase and 180mm of travel.

    It's been built as the most insane hardcore hardtail designed for British Columbia steep downhill trails by folks that are mad on hardtails: https://m.pinkbike.com/news/chromag-...planation.html

    Having never ridden a full suspension mountain bike before I was wondering: how would these two bikes compare downhill?
    Or is it foolish to compare an agressive "Enduro hardtail" with a FS bike because they are night and day and I should stop being an idiot and just go for the AF coz it will be a far more capable bike?

    @TanMan yeah: we don't have any sustained climbs in Singapore... Our highest point is only 164 meters after all!

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  74. #1474
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    Iíd say, buy the bike that youíll likely want to ride most of the time given majority of the terrain you have access to.

    The Chromag does look enticing and thereís something alluring about steel and welds. Some older veterans may also tell you ďsteel is realĒ and so on. Case in point, I bought a pristine 2016 Kona Explosif frame year ago from Pinkbike classfieds. Built it up and Iíve maybe rode it 2 times on the trail and 3 or 4 times around my neighborhood practicing wheelies. To my 40 year old body it was jarring as heck here in the desert where rocks, loose dry dirt prevails. It was also underutilized.

    The AF represents great value and if slow
    up and fast down is your thing then this bike is hard to beat. But if I were still living in SG, Iíd go for a one quiver bike that is a better all rounder- lightness up, on flatter connectors and fun descending. Iíll go for the Ripmo Carbon V2 or the older HD4 (if you can still find one) and not look back. But thatís just me!

  75. #1475
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Iíd say, buy the bike that youíll likely want to ride most of the time given majority of the terrain you have access to.

    The Chromag does look enticing and thereís something alluring about steel and welds. Some older veterans may also tell you ďsteel is realĒ and so on. Case in point, I bought a pristine 2016 Kona Explosif frame year ago from Pinkbike classfieds. Built it up and Iíve maybe rode it 2 times on the trail and 3 or 4 times around my neighborhood practicing wheelies. To my 40 year old body it was jarring as heck here in the desert where rocks, loose dry dirt prevails. It was also underutilized.

    The AF represents great value and if slow
    up and fast down is your thing then this bike is hard to beat. But if I were still living in SG, Iíd go for a one quiver bike that is a better all rounder- lightness up, on flatter connectors and fun descending. Iíll go for the Ripmo Carbon V2 or the older HD4 (if you can still find one) and not look back. But thatís just me!
    @TanMan thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
    Really the carbon V2 isn't in my budget at all: when I started looking at bikes I thought USD3K was already a lot of money... at USD1,400 more than the AF the carbon Ripmo doesn't make sense to me - correct me if I'm wrong but the difference is less than 2lbs between the 2 frames?
    I weigh 210lbs without gear and usually carry between 3-5litres of water in a hydration pack on long rides... I just don't think it'll make a big difference.
    Anyway: the wife would go mental if I spent that much on a bike so it's a moot point!

    Thanks for sharing your experience with a nice steel hardtail: yes, I've been over romanticizing the idea of a steel hardtail when a great full sus is obviously the sensible choice. This article helped articulate the difference for me: https://www.singletracks.com/beginne...sion-you-need/

    Regarding where/how I ride: I have 2 young kids so have to squeeze in rides whenever I can. That usually means commuting 10km on the bike along green corridor/PCNs in the morning and taking a detour past Kent ridge on the way home, so usually 30-60mins of either sessioning sections of the DH line there or doing full runs of the same line with the pain of winching myself up Vigilante drive to get back to the top.

    Then when I can on the weekends I ride the jumps at Gangsa or Tampines quarry or do longer rides on BKT or Chestnut. Been able to get out to Dangas a couple of times in Batam too and want to travel in future to hit up some of the Malaysian trails, Changmai, Bali Bike Park etc.

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  76. #1476
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    Got 2 rides in on the new Ripmo AF, well 1-1/2. Already sliced a hole in the sidewall of my back tire. So much for the toughness of the Assegai 3C exo+...

    I'm on a pretty bad run of luck here in northern california with flats the past year, so i'm going to chalk it up to luck and not tires.

    climbing on the bike isn't as easy or efficient as the 100mm xc hardtail i'm coming off of, but the ride is so much more comfortable it well makes up for it. bouncing up and down going up rocky fireroads and double track is almost non-existent, but the extra weight is definitely felt. this bike is 6 pounds heavier.

    descending is ridiculous, and i dont think i'll ever be able to find the limit. it just wants you to hold on and let go of the brakes. I rode trails that i'm extremely familiar with and was finding new lines all over the place. Rocks i used to have to avoid at all costs or risk going otb are fun options to pop off or soak up. The reviews saying that this bike becomes one with the rider are right on, it feels almost effortless to rip the downs at super unsafe speeds. I know that my trails will humble me at some point and leave me upside down still clipped in inside a poison oak bush, but until then i'm going to have the time of my life on this thing. Ripmo AF Thread-1.jpg

  77. #1477
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    @TanMan thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
    Really the carbon V2 isn't in my budget at all: when I started looking at bikes I thought USD3K was already a lot of money... at USD1,400 more than the AF the carbon Ripmo doesn't make sense to me - correct me if I'm wrong but the difference is less than 2lbs between the 2 frames?
    I weigh 210lbs without gear and usually carry between 3-5litres of water in a hydration pack on long rides... I just don't think it'll make a big difference.
    Anyway: the wife would go mental if I spent that much on a bike so it's a moot point!

    Thanks for sharing your experience with a nice steel hardtail: yes, I've been over romanticizing the idea of a steel hardtail when a great full sus is obviously the sensible choice. This article helped articulate the difference for me: https://www.singletracks.com/beginne...sion-you-need/

    Regarding where/how I ride: I have 2 young kids so have to squeeze in rides whenever I can. That usually means commuting 10km on the bike along green corridor/PCNs in the morning and taking a detour past Kent ridge on the way home, so usually 30-60mins of either sessioning sections of the DH line there or doing full runs of the same line with the pain of winching myself up Vigilante drive to get back to the top.

    Then when I can on the weekends I ride the jumps at Gangsa or Tampines quarry or do longer rides on BKT or Chestnut. Been able to get out to Dangas a couple of times in Batam too and want to travel in future to hit up some of the Malaysian trails, Changmai, Bali Bike Park etc.

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    I understand your interest in hardtails, I still have a vintage Cannondale HT in my garage that never gets ridden. The thing with full suspension is that tires on the ground as much as possible is what creates traction allowing better stability, speed and braking. Think of a baja race truck and how fast they can go with their suspension. Tires skipping along due to not enough suspension action for your speed is not great let alone uncomfortable and potentially less safe. I'm 40 now and ride a lot and just see no reason to be uncomfortable. At 210 lbs without gear, the AF would be a great heavy duty trail/light duty enduro for you. It's still not a full cush enduro like the new Specialized Enduro, SB150, Slayer, etc. If you wanted something a tad lighter, you could go for a V1 carbon Enduro but at your weight, the extra progression of the V2 is better. As someone else said, you could also look for a used HD4 but I don't see any reason to not go with big wheels these days. Good luck!
    2020 Ripmo AF

  78. #1478
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annadel Adam View Post
    Got 2 rides in on the new Ripmo AF, well 1-1/2. Already sliced a hole in the sidewall of my back tire. So much for the toughness of the Assegai 3C exo+...

    I'm on a pretty bad run of luck here in northern california with flats the past year, so i'm going to chalk it up to luck and not tires.

    climbing on the bike isn't as easy or efficient as the 100mm xc hardtail i'm coming off of, but the ride is so much more comfortable it well makes up for it. bouncing up and down going up rocky fireroads and double track is almost non-existent, but the extra weight is definitely felt. this bike is 6 pounds heavier.

    descending is ridiculous, and i dont think i'll ever be able to find the limit. it just wants you to hold on and let go of the brakes. I rode trails that i'm extremely familiar with and was finding new lines all over the place. Rocks i used to have to avoid at all costs or risk going otb are fun options to pop off or soak up. The reviews saying that this bike becomes one with the rider are right on, it feels almost effortless to rip the downs at super unsafe speeds. I know that my trails will humble me at some point and leave me upside down still clipped in inside a poison oak bush, but until then i'm going to have the time of my life on this thing. Click image for larger version. 

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    Climbing difference vs a 100mm xc bike is unavoidable however, it's good to keep those tires in mind. Dual Assegai EXO+ vs some light tires on an xc bike will certainly be felt climbing. Faster rolling tires on the AF would be nice at times.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  79. #1479
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    Or is it foolish to compare an agressive "Enduro hardtail" with a FS bike because they are night and day and I should stop being an idiot and just go for the AF coz it will be a far more capable bike?
    I'm 40 this year, and can absolutely appreciate the different ride characteristics of my DH bike, modern aggressive hard tail, pump track bike, and Ripmo AF. That said, if I didn't have the choice to keep a whole quiver of nice bikes, the do-everything bike would be the Ripmo AF, without a doubt. Do yourself a favor and buy the bike that would be most appropriate for most of the riding you do (as others have pointed out). IMHO, the Doctahawk is a pretty cool concept, but an incredibly niche bike that would probably be a bit inappropriate for most riders in most scenarios.

  80. #1480
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    I just did a 12 mile long paved bike path ride on my AF with my wife yesterday, perfectly comfortable. Pretty inefficient with sticky 2.5 Assegais but I didnít die

  81. #1481
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    Folks you know whatís funny? Given the AFís skateboard, street punk rock vibe, I had thought most of the owners here are under 25, young, exuberant downhill stunt riders.

    Itís good to know Iím not the only 40ish year old on here that hasnít quite grown up yet.


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  82. #1482
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Folks you know whatís funny? Given the AFís skateboard, street punk rock vibe, I had thought most of the owners here are under 25, young, exuberant downhill stunt riders.

    Itís good to know Iím not the only 40ish year old on here that hasnít quite grown up yet.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    44ish here and still doing dumb things


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  83. #1483
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Folks you know whatís funny? Given the AFís skateboard, street punk rock vibe, I had thought most of the owners here are under 25, young, exuberant downhill stunt riders.

    Itís good to know Iím not the only 40ish year old on here that hasnít quite grown up yet.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    36.. learning to jump .. and Enduro .. dumb things to come .. af on order ... Stupid.. virus

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  84. #1484
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    36.. learning to jump .. and Enduro .. dumb things to come .. af on order ... Stupid.. virus

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Same here. AF on order. Less than 24hrs before the lockdown started. Hoping Middle April delivery.........


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  85. #1485
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Same here. AF on order. Less than 24hrs before the lockdown started. Hoping Middle April delivery.........


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm the other side of the pond.. Portugal ..
    Ordered 1 week before .. not expecting sooner than July it's an XL ...

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  86. #1486
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I just did a 12 mile long paved bike path ride on my AF with my wife yesterday, perfectly comfortable. Pretty inefficient with sticky 2.5 Assegais but I didnít die
    Blasphemous! How dare you let paved roads touch the AFís tires?!


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  87. #1487
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Folks you know whatís funny? Given the AFís skateboard, street punk rock vibe, I had thought most of the owners here are under 25, young, exuberant downhill stunt riders.

    Itís good to know Iím not the only 40ish year old on here that hasnít quite grown up yet.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    35 here haha.

  88. #1488
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Blasphemous! How dare you let paved roads touch the AFís tires?!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Well I sold my CX bike to buy the AF so at the moment I only have the BMX and the AF as my only 2 wheelers lol. I have a DHR2 2.4WT on the way for a rear tire so that should help preserve rubber wear

  89. #1489
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Folks you know whatís funny? Given the AFís skateboard, street punk rock vibe, I had thought most of the owners here are under 25, young, exuberant downhill stunt riders.

    Itís good to know Iím not the only 40ish year old on here that hasnít quite grown up yet.
    At 40, I'm having a bit of a mtb renaissance actually. Never had so many choices for easily accessible riding zones and a bike for every type of riding. The RAF completes the circle, as my first new complete in 13 years. If only my body was 25 again

  90. #1490
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    Im wondering about running cushcore or not to keep tire roll to a minimum, my guess is that with 35mm internal rim the tires will be less likely to roll and with a DD casing on the rear I should get away of poncture. I usually run much lower pressure up front so my concern is there.
    What is your experiences with the assegai 2.5 exo/exo+ on the front at around 20psi? Enough support for a 200lbs rider in some hard cornering? Do you feel any roll??

  91. #1491
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annadel Adam View Post
    Got 2 rides in on the new Ripmo AF, well 1-1/2. Already sliced a hole in the sidewall of my back tire. So much for the toughness of the Assegai 3C exo+...

    I'm on a pretty bad run of luck here in northern california with flats the past year, so i'm going to chalk it up to luck and not tires.

    climbing on the bike isn't as easy or efficient as the 100mm xc hardtail i'm coming off of, but the ride is so much more comfortable it well makes up for it. bouncing up and down going up rocky fireroads and double track is almost non-existent, but the extra weight is definitely felt. this bike is 6 pounds heavier.

    descending is ridiculous, and i dont think i'll ever be able to find the limit. it just wants you to hold on and let go of the brakes. I rode trails that i'm extremely familiar with and was finding new lines all over the place. Rocks i used to have to avoid at all costs or risk going otb are fun options to pop off or soak up. The reviews saying that this bike becomes one with the rider are right on, it feels almost effortless to rip the downs at super unsafe speeds. I know that my trails will humble me at some point and leave me upside down still clipped in inside a poison oak bush, but until then i'm going to have the time of my life on this thing. Click image for larger version. 

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    This review was super helpful for me, thanks!!

    I'm coming off a 120mm aluminium 27.5+ trail hardtail. I've kitted it out to handle the tryp of riding I prefer as best I can so burly 2.8 tires, rimpact inserts front & back, Bergtech Penthouse MK5 pedals etc... Weights pretty much the same as an NX RAF so of anything the RAF will climb better due to traction.

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  92. #1492
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    I understand your interest in hardtails, I still have a vintage Cannondale HT in my garage that never gets ridden. The thing with full suspension is that tires on the ground as much as possible is what creates traction allowing better stability, speed and braking. Think of a baja race truck and how fast they can go with their suspension. Tires skipping along due to not enough suspension action for your speed is not great let alone uncomfortable and potentially less safe. I'm 40 now and ride a lot and just see no reason to be uncomfortable. At 210 lbs without gear, the AF would be a great heavy duty trail/light duty enduro for you. It's still not a full cush enduro like the new Specialized Enduro, SB150, Slayer, etc. If you wanted something a tad lighter, you could go for a V1 carbon Enduro but at your weight, the extra progression of the V2 is better. As someone else said, you could also look for a used HD4 but I don't see any reason to not go with big wheels these days. Good luck!
    Really appreciate this advice: exactly what I needed to hear re: the choice I have.
    Seems like the RAF is the one!

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  93. #1493
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    I'm 40 this year, and can absolutely appreciate the different ride characteristics of my DH bike, modern aggressive hard tail, pump track bike, and Ripmo AF. That said, if I didn't have the choice to keep a whole quiver of nice bikes, the do-everything bike would be the Ripmo AF, without a doubt. Do yourself a favor and buy the bike that would be most appropriate for most of the riding you do (as others have pointed out). IMHO, the Doctahawk is a pretty cool concept, but an incredibly niche bike that would probably be a bit inappropriate for most riders in most scenarios.
    Fair comments on the DoctorHawk. It is super cool though...

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  94. #1494
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    36.. learning to jump .. and Enduro .. dumb things to come .. af on order ... Stupid.. virus

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    I'm 35 and exactly the same as you: learning to jump, enduro, DH etc. Stupid things to come (and some already passed as my cracked rib reminds me daily!)

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  95. #1495
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    Sentinel vs. Ripmo AF

    Hey guys, I've had my Ripmo AF for about 7 months now and thought I'd update the review I gave a while back.

    Ripmo AF Thread-img_1064-1-.jpg
    Ripmo AF Thread-img_1041-1-.jpg

    Current Setup: (Ride weight 200-203lbs)

    Size Large NX Build Red Savina Air Shock

    Upgrades:

    Deity DC31 Carbon Bars
    Shimano Zee Brakes w/ Icetech Rotors
    OneUp 210mm Dropper Post
    Wolftooth Dropper Lever and Shimano I-Spec Mount
    i9 Hydra Hub laced to stock rim (great budget option)
    170mm Descendant Cranks (swapped due to pedal strikes)


    Suspension Settings:

    Fork - 131psi
    4 clicks rebound
    HSC 1/2 turn from open
    LSC 1 click

    Rear Shock - 207psi (215psi if riding flow trails)
    2 pos 1 neg spacer
    190 bladder pressure
    2 clicks rebound
    HSC open


    I recently built up an alloy Sentinel GX build and have been riding that bike back to back with the Ripmo AF on my local NC trails. It's given me real interesting perspective of the two bikes and their similarities and differences.

    The Sentinel is an absolute animal on the downhill, it actually feels like it has more travel than the Ripmo AF and hugs the ground much better in my opinion. I have several PRs on downhill sections with the Sentinel that I can't match with my Ripmo AF. It's actually really odd, when riding the Sentinel it feels slow to pedal and pretty lethargic on flat sections of the trail but when you look at the numbers it is just flat out faster on the chunky sections of trail and through sections with a lot of cornering. I can corner extremely hard on the Sentinel with hardly any loss in traction (same exact tire setup DHF 2.5/ XR4 2.4). The Sentinel feels really great through chunk and actually feels better on climbs that have a lot of roots or ledges as the bike just seems to get right over them very easily.

    But it's not all good. The Sentinel has noticeable pedal bob and feel very inefficient when out of the saddle sprinting or climbing for long periods of time. Even on fire roads the bike just feels like it is sapping up your energy. The Ripmo AF is undoubtedly the better climber and feels faster overall on any section of trail that isn't really chunky and pointed downhill. My Ripmo also just feels lighter to maneuver through tight ans twisty trails, although neither of these bikes would be at the top of my list for that.

    Overall I'm really happy with my Ripmo AF (minus the damn cable rattle) and I think it's a great bike for a lot of people out there, it provides a good value and I think it's a perfect bike for people who only own one bike and ride a variety of trails from flow to chunk. My plan is to get a short travel bike here soon and when I do I'll either sell the Ripmo and get something with a Horst link setup or I'll go to a coil shock in the rear and go to a longer travel fork and use it as a plow bike. Cane Creek coil shock and Fox 36 170mm will probably be in the future for my bike.

    Hope everyone stays safe out there and keeps shredding!



    Also, here is a chart I made to make keeping up with the torque spec easy so I don't have to refer to the Ibis manual. I just save this in the notes in my phone along with the suspension settings. Cheers!
    Ripmo AF Thread-torque.png

  96. #1496
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    The RAF was my 42nd birthday present to myself in February.

    Well, wifey paid the $500 down for it. But yea...


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  97. #1497
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    Quote Originally Posted by freerider848 View Post
    Hey guys, I've had my Ripmo AF for about 7 months now and thought I'd update the review I gave a while back.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Current Setup: (Ride weight 200-203lbs)

    Size Large NX Build Red Savina Air Shock

    Upgrades:

    Deity DC31 Carbon Bars
    Shimano Zee Brakes w/ Icetech Rotors
    OneUp 210mm Dropper Post
    Wolftooth Dropper Lever and Shimano I-Spec Mount
    i9 Hydra Hub laced to stock rim (great budget option)
    170mm Descendant Cranks (swapped due to pedal strikes)


    Suspension Settings:

    Fork - 131psi
    4 clicks rebound
    HSC 1/2 turn from open
    LSC 1 click

    Rear Shock - 207psi (215psi if riding flow trails)
    2 pos 1 neg spacer
    190 bladder pressure
    2 clicks rebound
    HSC open


    I recently built up an alloy Sentinel GX build and have been riding that bike back to back with the Ripmo AF on my local NC trails. It's given me real interesting perspective of the two bikes and their similarities and differences.

    The Sentinel is an absolute animal on the downhill, it actually feels like it has more travel than the Ripmo AF and hugs the ground much better in my opinion. I have several PRs on downhill sections with the Sentinel that I can't match with my Ripmo AF. It's actually really odd, when riding the Sentinel it feels slow to pedal and pretty lethargic on flat sections of the trail but when you look at the numbers it is just flat out faster on the chunky sections of trail and through sections with a lot of cornering. I can corner extremely hard on the Sentinel with hardly any loss in traction (same exact tire setup DHF 2.5/ XR4 2.4). The Sentinel feels really great through chunk and actually feels better on climbs that have a lot of roots or ledges as the bike just seems to get right over them very easily.

    But it's not all good. The Sentinel has noticeable pedal bob and feel very inefficient when out of the saddle sprinting or climbing for long periods of time. Even on fire roads the bike just feels like it is sapping up your energy. The Ripmo AF is undoubtedly the better climber and feels faster overall on any section of trail that isn't really chunky and pointed downhill. My Ripmo also just feels lighter to maneuver through tight ans twisty trails, although neither of these bikes would be at the top of my list for that.

    Overall I'm really happy with my Ripmo AF (minus the damn cable rattle) and I think it's a great bike for a lot of people out there, it provides a good value and I think it's a perfect bike for people who only own one bike and ride a variety of trails from flow to chunk. My plan is to get a short travel bike here soon and when I do I'll either sell the Ripmo and get something with a Horst link setup or I'll go to a coil shock in the rear and go to a longer travel fork and use it as a plow bike. Cane Creek coil shock and Fox 36 170mm will probably be in the future for my bike.

    Hope everyone stays safe out there and keeps shredding!



    Also, here is a chart I made to make keeping up with the torque spec easy so I don't have to refer to the Ibis manual. I just save this in the notes in my phone along with the suspension settings. Cheers!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Love the review. I need to check on my rebound settings. Iím almost as many clicks if not more and Iím way lighter! Something isnít right.

    Oh and this awesome chart is getting printed out going onto the Bike Cave.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  98. #1498
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    Quote Originally Posted by freerider848 View Post
    Hey guys, I've had my Ripmo AF for about 7 months now and thought I'd update the review I gave a while back.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1064 (1).jpg 
Views:	85 
Size:	387.1 KB 
ID:	1319377
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1041 (1).jpg 
Views:	86 
Size:	443.0 KB 
ID:	1319379

    Current Setup: (Ride weight 200-203lbs)

    Size Large NX Build Red Savina Air Shock

    Upgrades:

    Deity DC31 Carbon Bars
    Shimano Zee Brakes w/ Icetech Rotors
    OneUp 210mm Dropper Post
    Wolftooth Dropper Lever and Shimano I-Spec Mount
    i9 Hydra Hub laced to stock rim (great budget option)
    170mm Descendant Cranks (swapped due to pedal strikes)


    Suspension Settings:

    Fork - 131psi
    4 clicks rebound
    HSC 1/2 turn from open
    LSC 1 click

    Rear Shock - 207psi (215psi if riding flow trails)
    2 pos 1 neg spacer
    190 bladder pressure
    2 clicks rebound
    HSC open


    I recently built up an alloy Sentinel GX build and have been riding that bike back to back with the Ripmo AF on my local NC trails. It's given me real interesting perspective of the two bikes and their similarities and differences.

    The Sentinel is an absolute animal on the downhill, it actually feels like it has more travel than the Ripmo AF and hugs the ground much better in my opinion. I have several PRs on downhill sections with the Sentinel that I can't match with my Ripmo AF. It's actually really odd, when riding the Sentinel it feels slow to pedal and pretty lethargic on flat sections of the trail but when you look at the numbers it is just flat out faster on the chunky sections of trail and through sections with a lot of cornering. I can corner extremely hard on the Sentinel with hardly any loss in traction (same exact tire setup DHF 2.5/ XR4 2.4). The Sentinel feels really great through chunk and actually feels better on climbs that have a lot of roots or ledges as the bike just seems to get right over them very easily.

    But it's not all good. The Sentinel has noticeable pedal bob and feel very inefficient when out of the saddle sprinting or climbing for long periods of time. Even on fire roads the bike just feels like it is sapping up your energy. The Ripmo AF is undoubtedly the better climber and feels faster overall on any section of trail that isn't really chunky and pointed downhill. My Ripmo also just feels lighter to maneuver through tight ans twisty trails, although neither of these bikes would be at the top of my list for that.

    Overall I'm really happy with my Ripmo AF (minus the damn cable rattle) and I think it's a great bike for a lot of people out there, it provides a good value and I think it's a perfect bike for people who only own one bike and ride a variety of trails from flow to chunk. My plan is to get a short travel bike here soon and when I do I'll either sell the Ripmo and get something with a Horst link setup or I'll go to a coil shock in the rear and go to a longer travel fork and use it as a plow bike. Cane Creek coil shock and Fox 36 170mm will probably be in the future for my bike.

    Hope everyone stays safe out there and keeps shredding!



    Also, here is a chart I made to make keeping up with the torque spec easy so I don't have to refer to the Ibis manual. I just save this in the notes in my phone along with the suspension settings. Cheers!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	torque.png 
Views:	58 
Size:	307.9 KB 
ID:	1319381
    Thank you for the review .. really cool
    Just a question I'm getting one has a Enduro machine .. do you think it's not suitable ?

    Thank you in advance

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  99. #1499
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    The AF and the Sentinel are the 2 bikes at the top of my list right now. I wonder if the coil would take it closer to the Sentinel in the chunk.

  100. #1500
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeboardorblade View Post
    The AF and the Sentinel are the 2 bikes at the top of my list right now. I wonder if the coil would take it closer to the Sentinel in the chunk.
    Also note that sentinel is 1deg slacket ht and quite a different bike than af. Best to demo both, which might prove difficult now though

  101. #1501
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    Age 43 here and still riding

    I own both a Ripmo AF and Yeti SB100. I honestly feel the AF doesn't lose that much in climbing ability vs. the SB100. Yes you can feel the added weight of the AF, but the kinematics of the bike definitely helps out a lot when climbing. On the trail that I usually climb (Rosewood in Thousand Oaks), I set a PR with my SB100 but my time with the AF was only 20 seconds off. On the descent (Space Mountain in Thousand Oaks) there's no comparison. Hands down the AF is way more stable, confidence inspiring, comfortable, etc. The DVO suspension is amazing. How Ibis was able to provide that suspension on a bike under $3k is unbelievable. The bike is so great that I'm actually putting the SB100 up for sale. Don't get me wrong, the SB100 is an amazing bike, but the AF can do 95% of what the SB100 can do at approximately half the price.

    One of the reasons I think my RAF climbs almost as well as the SB100, are the mods I did to get it to a lighter weight. Keep in mind, I've owned only carbon XC/Trail bikes the past 3 years (Scott Spark, Giant Trance Advanced, Mojo 3, Mach 5.5, SB100) so I got used to bikes weighing less than 30 lbs. My AF weighs around 31 lbs which I feel is pretty good considering its an aluminum bike. I started off with the SLX build. My mods are as follows:

    Ibis S35 carbon wheelset with I9 Hydra hubs
    Tires - Schwalbe 2.6 Nobby Nic Rear and 2.6 Hans Dampf front
    Full XTR (shifter, rear derailleur, cassette, cranks, chain, trail pedals)
    Absolute Black 30T oval chainring
    Enve carbon bar and stem
    SLX brakes and rotors

    I actually have a set of XTR 2-piston trail brakes that I was planning on swapping over to the AF and purchase some XTR rotors to try and get the bike to 30 lbs but the SLX brakes work so well that I've been holding off on doing the swap for now.

    The only issues I've had with the AF is the damn cable rattling. I've done some things to the bike to silence the cables so I'm not sure if the rattling is coming from the 4 piston SLX brake pads or the cables, but that's the only thing that annoys the heck outta me.

    I considered getting a Carbon Ripmo frame, swapping over the DVO suspension and everything else on my AF, and that'd be my one quiver killer bike. I'm a below average rider so I doubt I'd feel the difference between a V1 or V2 frame lol

    Lots of great info from this forum. Keep riding!

  102. #1502
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    Quote Originally Posted by freerider848 View Post
    Hey guys, I've had my Ripmo AF for about 7 months now and thought I'd update the review I gave a while back.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Current Setup: (Ride weight 200-203lbs)

    Size Large NX Build Red Savina Air Shock

    Upgrades:

    Deity DC31 Carbon Bars
    Shimano Zee Brakes w/ Icetech Rotors
    OneUp 210mm Dropper Post
    Wolftooth Dropper Lever and Shimano I-Spec Mount
    i9 Hydra Hub laced to stock rim (great budget option)
    170mm Descendant Cranks (swapped due to pedal strikes)


    Suspension Settings:

    Fork - 131psi
    4 clicks rebound
    HSC 1/2 turn from open
    LSC 1 click

    Rear Shock - 207psi (215psi if riding flow trails)
    2 pos 1 neg spacer
    190 bladder pressure
    2 clicks rebound
    HSC open


    I recently built up an alloy Sentinel GX build and have been riding that bike back to back with the Ripmo AF on my local NC trails. It's given me real interesting perspective of the two bikes and their similarities and differences.

    The Sentinel is an absolute animal on the downhill, it actually feels like it has more travel than the Ripmo AF and hugs the ground much better in my opinion. I have several PRs on downhill sections with the Sentinel that I can't match with my Ripmo AF. It's actually really odd, when riding the Sentinel it feels slow to pedal and pretty lethargic on flat sections of the trail but when you look at the numbers it is just flat out faster on the chunky sections of trail and through sections with a lot of cornering. I can corner extremely hard on the Sentinel with hardly any loss in traction (same exact tire setup DHF 2.5/ XR4 2.4). The Sentinel feels really great through chunk and actually feels better on climbs that have a lot of roots or ledges as the bike just seems to get right over them very easily.

    But it's not all good. The Sentinel has noticeable pedal bob and feel very inefficient when out of the saddle sprinting or climbing for long periods of time. Even on fire roads the bike just feels like it is sapping up your energy. The Ripmo AF is undoubtedly the better climber and feels faster overall on any section of trail that isn't really chunky and pointed downhill. My Ripmo also just feels lighter to maneuver through tight ans twisty trails, although neither of these bikes would be at the top of my list for that.

    Overall I'm really happy with my Ripmo AF (minus the damn cable rattle) and I think it's a great bike for a lot of people out there, it provides a good value and I think it's a perfect bike for people who only own one bike and ride a variety of trails from flow to chunk. My plan is to get a short travel bike here soon and when I do I'll either sell the Ripmo and get something with a Horst link setup or I'll go to a coil shock in the rear and go to a longer travel fork and use it as a plow bike. Cane Creek coil shock and Fox 36 170mm will probably be in the future for my bike.

    Hope everyone stays safe out there and keeps shredding!



    Also, here is a chart I made to make keeping up with the torque spec easy so I don't have to refer to the Ibis manual. I just save this in the notes in my phone along with the suspension settings. Cheers!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    + 1 on the Ripmo AF vs Sentinel review. Rode both and agree with the review. Weird how the Sentinel had less rear travel and felt like more. Hands down I liked the way the Ripmo climbed better. Flowy downhill, both rocked. Chunky steep stuff, Sentinel won. I ended up with a Sentinel Carbon XT build. I would of been happy with either, but like how the Sentinel handled in the rough stuff a tad bit more.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  103. #1503
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    Just installed a DHR2 2.4WT on the rear of mine tonight. I was concerned it would flatten out too much since its a skinnier tire but it has just as much crown as the Assegai. I'll try it out this weekend and see if it rolls faster than dual Assegais. Measured width at trail pressure when new- 2.36". Current front Assegai 2.5WT width- 2.55".

  104. #1504
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Just installed a DHR2 2.4WT on the rear of mine tonight. I was concerned it would flatten out too much since its a skinnier tire but it has just as much crown as the Assegai. I'll try it out this weekend and see if it rolls faster than dual Assegais. Measured width at trail pressure when new- 2.36". Current front Assegai 2.5WT width- 2.55".
    That was the setup I was leaning towards.
    Can you share a pic of it mounted on the rear rim? Tire not too square or smallish?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  105. #1505
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeboardorblade View Post
    The AF and the Sentinel are the 2 bikes at the top of my list right now. I wonder if the coil would take it closer to the Sentinel in the chunk.
    And to confuse things a little, rumor has it the new Sentinel will be released fairly soon. Sentinels are 20% off right now.

  106. #1506
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    That was the setup I was leaning towards.
    Can you share a pic of it mounted on the rear rim? Tire not too square or smallish?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  107. #1507
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    did anyone measure there chain length at full bottom out ? as if i measure it static its 3 links shorter or does the whole 5 plus quick link account for this ? have an xt drivetrain

  108. #1508
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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    did anyone measure there chain length at full bottom out ? as if i measure it static its 3 links shorter or does the whole 5 plus quick link account for this ? have an xt drivetrain
    This is what worked for me on new Shimano 12 speed drivetrains with no load on the suspension.




    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  109. #1509
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    Quote Originally Posted by freerider848 View Post
    Hey guys, I've had my Ripmo AF for about 7 months now and thought I'd update the review I gave a while back.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Current Setup: (Ride weight 200-203lbs)

    Size Large NX Build Red Savina Air Shock

    Upgrades:

    Deity DC31 Carbon Bars
    Shimano Zee Brakes w/ Icetech Rotors
    OneUp 210mm Dropper Post
    Wolftooth Dropper Lever and Shimano I-Spec Mount
    i9 Hydra Hub laced to stock rim (great budget option)
    170mm Descendant Cranks (swapped due to pedal strikes)


    Suspension Settings:

    Fork - 131psi
    4 clicks rebound
    HSC 1/2 turn from open
    LSC 1 click

    Rear Shock - 207psi (215psi if riding flow trails)
    2 pos 1 neg spacer
    190 bladder pressure
    2 clicks rebound
    HSC open


    I recently built up an alloy Sentinel GX build and have been riding that bike back to back with the Ripmo AF on my local NC trails. It's given me real interesting perspective of the two bikes and their similarities and differences.

    The Sentinel is an absolute animal on the downhill, it actually feels like it has more travel than the Ripmo AF and hugs the ground much better in my opinion. I have several PRs on downhill sections with the Sentinel that I can't match with my Ripmo AF. It's actually really odd, when riding the Sentinel it feels slow to pedal and pretty lethargic on flat sections of the trail but when you look at the numbers it is just flat out faster on the chunky sections of trail and through sections with a lot of cornering. I can corner extremely hard on the Sentinel with hardly any loss in traction (same exact tire setup DHF 2.5/ XR4 2.4). The Sentinel feels really great through chunk and actually feels better on climbs that have a lot of roots or ledges as the bike just seems to get right over them very easily.

    But it's not all good. The Sentinel has noticeable pedal bob and feel very inefficient when out of the saddle sprinting or climbing for long periods of time. Even on fire roads the bike just feels like it is sapping up your energy. The Ripmo AF is undoubtedly the better climber and feels faster overall on any section of trail that isn't really chunky and pointed downhill. My Ripmo also just feels lighter to maneuver through tight ans twisty trails, although neither of these bikes would be at the top of my list for that.

    Overall I'm really happy with my Ripmo AF (minus the damn cable rattle) and I think it's a great bike for a lot of people out there, it provides a good value and I think it's a perfect bike for people who only own one bike and ride a variety of trails from flow to chunk. My plan is to get a short travel bike here soon and when I do I'll either sell the Ripmo and get something with a Horst link setup or I'll go to a coil shock in the rear and go to a longer travel fork and use it as a plow bike. Cane Creek coil shock and Fox 36 170mm will probably be in the future for my bike.

    Hope everyone stays safe out there and keeps shredding!



    Also, here is a chart I made to make keeping up with the torque spec easy so I don't have to refer to the Ibis manual. I just save this in the notes in my phone along with the suspension settings. Cheers!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	torque.png 
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    Excellent and helpful review, thanks!!

    If you do end up getting a short travel bike and replacing the RAF for a Horst link plow of an Enduro bike how about the Privateer 161?
    https://www.privateerbikes.com/products/privateer-161

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  110. #1510
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Thank you for the review .. really cool
    Just a question I'm getting one has a Enduro machine .. do you think it's not suitable ?

    Thank you in advance

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    I think the Ripmo AF is a great Enduro bike, but you just have to understand the differences between it and some of the other bikes on the market. If I was going enduro only I think I would opt for the coil shock though. Overall the bike is great, but there are definitely other bikes out there that, in my opinion, feel more plush and soak up the chunk better than DW link bikes can.

  111. #1511
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    Excellent and helpful review, thanks!!

    If you do end up getting a short travel bike and replacing the RAF for a Horst link plow of an Enduro bike how about the Privateer 161?
    https://www.privateerbikes.com/products/privateer-161

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    I've been looking at that bike and the Raaw Madonna V2 as well. Both bikes have great geometry and look great in my opinion. I don't think anyone could go wrong with either of them. I may try a Cane Creek DBcoil IL on my Ripmo and a 170mm fork before making the jump to another frame though.

    For short travel bikes I've been looking at a Ripley, Following V3, or Tallboy V4. I've ridden the Ripley and Tallboy and both bikes feel great. The Tallboy felt like more than 120mm travel and I'm really curious to see what the new Following is like.

  112. #1512
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    And to confuse things a little, rumor has it the new Sentinel will be released fairly soon. Sentinels are 20% off right now.
    This rumor has been going around for a few months now, Iíd be stoked to see it actually happen!

  113. #1513
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    This is what worked for me on new Shimano 12 speed drivetrains with no load on the suspension.




    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
    thanks mate, i was 99% sure that was correct when reading the manual but as we are in 4 week lockdown i cant stuff it up.....

  114. #1514
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    so this is what i found confusing as this page is after the one D1PHAM posted so what you've cut your chain then find under load your chains to short ?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-shimano-derailleur-.png  


  115. #1515
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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    so this is what i found confusing as this page is after the one D1PHAM posted so what you've cut your chain then find under load your chains to short ?
    Trust the process.

    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  116. #1516
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    Thanks for sharing this chart!

    Quote Originally Posted by freerider848 View Post
    Hey guys, I've had my Ripmo AF for about 7 months now and thought I'd update the review I gave a while back.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1064 (1).jpg 
Views:	85 
Size:	387.1 KB 
ID:	1319377
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1041 (1).jpg 
Views:	86 
Size:	443.0 KB 
ID:	1319379

    Current Setup: (Ride weight 200-203lbs)

    Size Large NX Build Red Savina Air Shock

    Upgrades:

    Deity DC31 Carbon Bars
    Shimano Zee Brakes w/ Icetech Rotors
    OneUp 210mm Dropper Post
    Wolftooth Dropper Lever and Shimano I-Spec Mount
    i9 Hydra Hub laced to stock rim (great budget option)
    170mm Descendant Cranks (swapped due to pedal strikes)


    Suspension Settings:

    Fork - 131psi
    4 clicks rebound
    HSC 1/2 turn from open
    LSC 1 click

    Rear Shock - 207psi (215psi if riding flow trails)
    2 pos 1 neg spacer
    190 bladder pressure
    2 clicks rebound
    HSC open


    I recently built up an alloy Sentinel GX build and have been riding that bike back to back with the Ripmo AF on my local NC trails. It's given me real interesting perspective of the two bikes and their similarities and differences.

    The Sentinel is an absolute animal on the downhill, it actually feels like it has more travel than the Ripmo AF and hugs the ground much better in my opinion. I have several PRs on downhill sections with the Sentinel that I can't match with my Ripmo AF. It's actually really odd, when riding the Sentinel it feels slow to pedal and pretty lethargic on flat sections of the trail but when you look at the numbers it is just flat out faster on the chunky sections of trail and through sections with a lot of cornering. I can corner extremely hard on the Sentinel with hardly any loss in traction (same exact tire setup DHF 2.5/ XR4 2.4). The Sentinel feels really great through chunk and actually feels better on climbs that have a lot of roots or ledges as the bike just seems to get right over them very easily.

    But it's not all good. The Sentinel has noticeable pedal bob and feel very inefficient when out of the saddle sprinting or climbing for long periods of time. Even on fire roads the bike just feels like it is sapping up your energy. The Ripmo AF is undoubtedly the better climber and feels faster overall on any section of trail that isn't really chunky and pointed downhill. My Ripmo also just feels lighter to maneuver through tight ans twisty trails, although neither of these bikes would be at the top of my list for that.

    Overall I'm really happy with my Ripmo AF (minus the damn cable rattle) and I think it's a great bike for a lot of people out there, it provides a good value and I think it's a perfect bike for people who only own one bike and ride a variety of trails from flow to chunk. My plan is to get a short travel bike here soon and when I do I'll either sell the Ripmo and get something with a Horst link setup or I'll go to a coil shock in the rear and go to a longer travel fork and use it as a plow bike. Cane Creek coil shock and Fox 36 170mm will probably be in the future for my bike.

    Hope everyone stays safe out there and keeps shredding!



    Also, here is a chart I made to make keeping up with the torque spec easy so I don't have to refer to the Ibis manual. I just save this in the notes in my phone along with the suspension settings. Cheers!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	torque.png 
Views:	58 
Size:	307.9 KB 
ID:	1319381

  117. #1517
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    Quote Originally Posted by freerider848 View Post
    I've been looking at that bike and the Raaw Madonna V2 as well. Both bikes have great geometry and look great in my opinion. I don't think anyone could go wrong with either of them. I may try a Cane Creek DBcoil IL on my Ripmo and a 170mm fork before making the jump to another frame though.

    For short travel bikes I've been looking at a Ripley, Following V3, or Tallboy V4. I've ridden the Ripley and Tallboy and both bikes feel great. The Tallboy felt like more than 120mm travel and I'm really curious to see what the new Following is like.
    It'll be interesting to hear what you think with the DBcoil. By all reports, a coil should make the bike more supple. Also, based on my demos, a Lyrik may add some small bump compliance but the rest of the stroke is no better than the Diamond. Those new SC lower link bikes are great for plowing since they're super supple, solid (no flex) and ultra quiet. I've never been on the Evil bikes but I hear they are great for that as well.
    Last edited by sfr4dr; 1 Week Ago at 09:10 AM.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  118. #1518
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    Does anyone have thoughts on a Hans Dampf 2.35 super gravity for a rear tire?

    looks like some of the best puncture protection on the market, just not sure if the 2.35 is too small to replace my assegai 2.5 (although it has to be replaced due to the gash in the sidewall).

    Curious if anyone's ridden it.

  119. #1519
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    Itís the size of a DHRII 2.4

  120. #1520
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    Yeah Schwalbe tires run big or right on size. Maxxis tends to run small or right on size

  121. #1521
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    Is my chain 1 link too long? SLX 12 speed...

    Low gear...


    Seems like it will easily slap the front cog on the derailleur in the highest gear


    Maybe itís fine?

  122. #1522
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Is my chain 1 link too long? SLX 12 speed...

    Low gear...


    Seems like it will easily slap the front cog on the derailleur in the highest gear


    Maybe itís fine?
    Did you align your B-screw with the 51T mark/line on the backside of the rear derailleur?

    Here's the entire Shimano manual. I followed the chain length instructions starting on page 10 and so far so good on shifting.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...-u1om9kQaFS9Wg


    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  123. #1523
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    Did you align your B-screw with the 51T mark/line on the backside of the rear derailleur?

    Here's the entire Shimano manual. I followed the chain length instructions starting on page 10 and so far so good on shifting.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...-u1om9kQaFS9Wg


    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
    I didnít assemble the bike but Iíll check that. I know a chain length guide was posted above but I donít think I can check that now itís all assembled and I picked up the bike that way.

  124. #1524
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    i ended up with 116 links includes the quick link in that count, also set the b screw like shown above and the drive train works mint, one thing i dont like about shimano already is they dont have the derailleur cage lock feature like sram do, so when your taking the rear wheel off its a real bastard... gotta fight the tension of the frickin derailleur

  125. #1525
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I didnít assemble the bike but Iíll check that. I know a chain length guide was posted above but I donít think I can check that now itís all assembled and I picked up the bike that way.
    I think you can still actually measure it per the Shimano instructions. Just take off your chain and wrap it around the largest cog and front chainring without the connecting link.

    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  126. #1526
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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    i ended up with 116 links includes the quick link in that count, also set the b screw like shown above and the drive train works mint, one thing i dont like about shimano already is they dont have the derailleur cage lock feature like sram do, so when your taking the rear wheel off its a real bastard... gotta fight the tension of the frickin derailleur
    ^ This as well. But, the shifting does feel damn solid! Can't have it all I guess.

    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  127. #1527
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    yeah thats my only complaint about shimano no cage lock... also on another note with my 165lb weight and 400lb coil i'm running one click of rebound as zero clicks is dead but one seems to be enough for the curb drop test.... as in the spring overshoots a tad or do you do coils differently ? air shocks this way has always worked well for me

  128. #1528
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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    yeah thats my only complaint about shimano no cage lock... also on another note with my 165lb weight and 400lb coil i'm running one click of rebound as zero clicks is dead but one seems to be enough for the curb drop test.... as in the spring overshoots a tad or do you do coils differently ? air shocks this way has always worked well for me
    I'm 130 lbs. Never ran a coil.

    Curb test to baseline then fine tune on the trails seems to do the trick.

    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  129. #1529
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    I found a workable solution to the bottle/pump holder problem. And Wolftoothís Bottleshift ainít it. Great product but just not compatible with OneUpís obstructively shaped pump holder.

    Bottleshift is great in the fact that you have good up down and sideways ďshiftĒ adjustability. You can shift it to the right for your bottle cage to clear the brake and dropper cables. But the right side mounting holes of the Bottleshift also means the pump holder jugs out too far and touches the crank.



    So pumpholder+ Bottleshift was no go. Tried 3 or 4 different permutations including the enduro setup below, strapping the pump to the frame...



    Uhhmm...no. Donít want to risk losing the pump and my edc tool when the Velcro wears over time.

    Ended up ditching the Bottleshift and just using Wolftooths King Cage on top of the pump holder. Did the trick!



    Enough adjustability in the cage itself to possibly clear a bigger bottle but havenít tried. Here a pic of the smaller bottle. A lot of space still. The pump barely clears the crank but will not contact.



    Took me almost 2 hours to get this to a setup Iím content with. It was all a giant PITA due to the cable and tight clearance to the seat tube . When all is said and done, the unused Bottleshift dog bone might go on my HD3. That bike too has the worse clearance for cages and bottle holder.



    Then I realized I left the Bottleshift torx screws on my King Cage with the AF. Whatever man! Leaving it alone for now!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    @TanMan just wondering if i got the oneup pump and the wolftooth b-rad 3 slot would the pump and mounted it high on the top slot if the pump was to long would it run past the top shock mount or would it foul out on the shock mount?

  130. #1530
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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    @TanMan just wondering if i got the oneup pump and the wolftooth b-rad 3 slot would the pump and mounted it high on the top slot if the pump was to long would it run past the top shock mount or would it foul out on the shock mount?
    Yo! Look at Ben Mtbís pic above in post # 1392.
    He uses the setup you are thinking. Seems to work well. The only thing Iím unsure about is they the third mounting hole on top has nothing to screw to and they recommend a zip tie. If you mount the pump too high, it may rattle possibly? I think this route offers you a lot of adjustability.

    I went the Bottleshift route which did not work well. Ended up just using a king cage on top of the pump holder. This sets the pump low on frame so I use OneUpís shorter version pump.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  131. #1531
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    Forgot to mention, my setup uses existing braze on mounts on the frame but because the Oneup pump holderís shape is so obtrusive, it will not clear the cables existing the ports. So I had to cut a notch into the pump holder. PITA.

    Go the BRAD 3 route I think youíll be happier.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  132. #1532
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    thanks TanMan think i will go the brad 3 route i actually did see that post from Ben but forgot about it! watched a dude on you tube compare the EDC tool in the headset vs pump and he thinks the pump is a much better option as i WAS considering the headset option until watching this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFXgScdwSOw&t=927s

  133. #1533
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    Kudos to Ibis for somehow shipping out my RAF!!!!!

    NBD Wednesday maybe?! So freaking stoked. Figured I was going to be waiting for a couple months.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  134. #1534
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Kudos to Ibis for somehow shipping out my RAF!!!!!

    NBD Wednesday maybe?! So freaking stoked. Figured I was going to be waiting for a couple months.


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    Uau .. kudos that's great

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    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  135. #1535
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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    yeah thats my only complaint about shimano no cage lock... also on another note with my 165lb weight and 400lb coil i'm running one click of rebound as zero clicks is dead but one seems to be enough for the curb drop test.... as in the spring overshoots a tad or do you do coils differently ? air shocks this way has always worked well for me
    One click opened sounds pretty low. I asked about a suggested rebound setting when I called DVO for something else and they said to start at 10 for 160lbs with a 400# spring as well. I started with that and now I think I'm at 8. I guess I didn't start with it closed, so maybe I shouldn't comment, but I would imagine it would seem really harsh over small bumps; packing down and not returning fast enough.

  136. #1536
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Kudos to Ibis for somehow shipping out my RAF!!!!!

    NBD Wednesday maybe?! So freaking stoked. Figured I was going to be waiting for a couple months.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Very cool, congrats! I'm sure they'll be getting creative to keep distance between employees and still keep product moving.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  137. #1537
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    I heard this rock get wedged in there



    So I made a mastic protector to cover the area. With these sticky tires itís no surprise they pick up rocks and throw them everywhere so it will just get worse. Mastic sticks to the seat tube and the black pivot part and has another piece of mastic on the bottom side so there isnít exposed sticky. Weíll see how it works tomorrow!


  138. #1538
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Kudos to Ibis for somehow shipping out my RAF!!!!!

    NBD Wednesday maybe?! So freaking stoked. Figured I was going to be waiting for a couple months.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Woohoo! New bike day soon

  139. #1539
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I heard this rock get wedged in there



    So I made a mastic protector to cover the area. With these sticky tires itís no surprise they pick up rocks and throw them everywhere so it will just get worse. Mastic sticks to the seat tube and the black pivot part and has another piece of mastic on the bottom side so there isnít exposed sticky. Weíll see how it works tomorrow!

    Nice job. This mastic stuff is amazing.
    Did the same for my lower and upper links. Inspired by Ibisí very own Ripmo V2 rockguard so lovingly omitted from the AF.




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  140. #1540
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Nice job. This mastic stuff is amazing.
    Did the same for my lower and upper links. Inspired by Ibisí very own Ripmo V2 rockguard so lovingly omitted from the AF.




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    Good call! Iíll make one for the lower pivot too

  141. #1541
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    A long story

    Hey all
    I thought I'd share some thoughts about my experience buying and riding my RAF Coil:

    Late last year, I was pretty depressed. Here in Western WA, we had descended into what felt like an endless rainy season and the national news was gripped by an impeachment. By this point in the year, I had already let myself fall pretty deep into my well of sadness, but as anyone who lives with depression knows, that well has no bottom and it requires a lot of life changes to climb back out. So I resolved to stop doing drugs, and to get exercise riding my bike.

    Sadly, I had let my old bike fall into disrepair over the last year. The wheels were too dinged up to hold air overnight, the dropper post needed to be replaced, and the fit of the bike was ruined after I swapped the stem, leaving me in agony at the bottom of a long descent. Upgrading a few parts wasn't going to fix the fit, and finding parts to fit an older bike is getting harder and harder. I knew it was time to replace the bike, but with so many bikes available it was daunting to try and pick one.

    Luckily, I fell in love with pictures of the silver Ripmo AF I saw on the internet. Particularly, this bike belonging to Mbarosko, which was featured on VitalMTB:



    So, in an uncharacteristic impulse, I bought one. I didn't consider any other bikes, or demo anything.

    Since I would have to drive several hours to Bellingham or Portland to buy one in a shop, I ordered one from Jenson USA. I was pretty apprehensive to buy a bike I'd never ridden before. It's basically the one thing people on this forum say never to do (except buy a Specialized, of course). I'd never bought a bike online before, so I wasn't sure what to expect. Thankfully, it went very smoothly and in a little over a week I was unboxing my new Ibis. It's a little weird putting a bike in your cart and clicking "check-out", but it's the future I guess. Finding a 450lb spring was a little bit of a saga, but thankfully the folks at DVO were super helpful and sent me the correct spring for my bike. It was a pleasant surprise to call DVO and get someone to pick up right away. One of their techs (Josh I think was his name) spent about 20 minutes answering my questions about the Jade shock which was super helpful.

    Ripmo AF Thread-bab9e7b2-a575-4b48-90bc-026369290468_1_201_a.jpg

    A little over three months later, I'm really happy with the bike. There was definitely a learning curve, as this is by far the largest bike I've ever ridden. At first, I was over-shooting turns because this bike feels like it's going slower than it is. Then I had to adjust my cornering since the handlebars are higher than I'm used to, and the big wheels take more input to initiate and maintain a turn. Now that I'm used to it, I find the handling of the bike to be very predictable which allows me to be more confident rolling into steep chutes and rough terrain. The extra nearly 30mm of reach is really comfortable for me too, which puts me in a more comfortable position for long climbs, and I feel more comfortable descending too (less tension on my lower back).

    I had such a great experience buying a bike through Jenson, that I convinced my wife to let me buy her a mountain bike too. We wanted to go to a few stores and get her sized up and whatnot, but with COVID everything is closed up and stores are running out of stuff. She's getting a Marin Hawk Hill 2, ripping good deal on a bike and the part kit and color look really good too. I can't wait to have a riding buddy all the time now! While I don't recommend anyone do what I did (depression or impulse buying), I had a good experience buying online just wish it helped out my local shop.

    With the whole country beginning to settle into an economic and psychic depression, I hope everyone is OK. I became an adult just in time for the 2008 financial crisis, and barely a decade later it's happening again! I feel like everyone is starting to feel the loneliness, isolation, and anger at the system that I was feeling for months. I wouldn't wish that on anyone though. I hope everyone whose orders for Ripmos are postponed gets their bikes soon. I know it's hard when you're stuck waiting and it's unfair. Hopefully, things will all be back to normal soon, and we can all go on with our lives. Practice physical-distancing and stay healthy, and stay in touch with your friends and family. Hopefully we'll all be here to ride the trails soon.

  142. #1542
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockhammer View Post
    Hey all
    I thought I'd share some thoughts about my experience buying and riding my RAF Coil:

    Late last year, I was pretty depressed. Here in Western WA, we had descended into what felt like an endless rainy season and the national news was gripped by an impeachment. By this point in the year, I had already let myself fall pretty deep into my well of sadness, but as anyone who lives with depression knows, that well has no bottom and it requires a lot of life changes to climb back out. So I resolved to stop doing drugs, and to get exercise riding my bike.

    Sadly, I had let my old bike fall into disrepair over the last year. The wheels were too dinged up to hold air overnight, the dropper post needed to be replaced, and the fit of the bike was ruined after I swapped the stem, leaving me in agony at the bottom of a long descent. Upgrading a few parts wasn't going to fix the fit, and finding parts to fit an older bike is getting harder and harder. I knew it was time to replace the bike, but with so many bikes available it was daunting to try and pick one.

    Luckily, I fell in love with pictures of the silver Ripmo AF I saw on the internet. Particularly, this bike belonging to Mbarosko, which was featured on VitalMTB:



    So, in an uncharacteristic impulse, I bought one. I didn't consider any other bikes, or demo anything.

    Since I would have to drive several hours to Bellingham or Portland to buy one in a shop, I ordered one from Jenson USA. I was pretty apprehensive to buy a bike I'd never ridden before. It's basically the one thing people on this forum say never to do (except buy a Specialized, of course). I'd never bought a bike online before, so I wasn't sure what to expect. Thankfully, it went very smoothly and in a little over a week I was unboxing my new Ibis. It's a little weird putting a bike in your cart and clicking "check-out", but it's the future I guess. Finding a 450lb spring was a little bit of a saga, but thankfully the folks at DVO were super helpful and sent me the correct spring for my bike. It was a pleasant surprise to call DVO and get someone to pick up right away. One of their techs (Josh I think was his name) spent about 20 minutes answering my questions about the Jade shock which was super helpful.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	BAB9E7B2-A575-4B48-90BC-026369290468_1_201_a.jpg 
Views:	49 
Size:	254.3 KB 
ID:	1320079

    A little over three months later, I'm really happy with the bike. There was definitely a learning curve, as this is by far the largest bike I've ever ridden. At first, I was over-shooting turns because this bike feels like it's going slower than it is. Then I had to adjust my cornering since the handlebars are higher than I'm used to, and the big wheels take more input to initiate and maintain a turn. Now that I'm used to it, I find the handling of the bike to be very predictable which allows me to be more confident rolling into steep chutes and rough terrain. The extra nearly 30mm of reach is really comfortable for me too, which puts me in a more comfortable position for long climbs, and I feel more comfortable descending too (less tension on my lower back).

    I had such a great experience buying a bike through Jenson, that I convinced my wife to let me buy her a mountain bike too. We wanted to go to a few stores and get her sized up and whatnot, but with COVID everything is closed up and stores are running out of stuff. She's getting a Marin Hawk Hill 2, ripping good deal on a bike and the part kit and color look really good too. I can't wait to have a riding buddy all the time now! While I don't recommend anyone do what I did (depression or impulse buying), I had a good experience buying online just wish it helped out my local shop.

    With the whole country beginning to settle into an economic and psychic depression, I hope everyone is OK. I became an adult just in time for the 2008 financial crisis, and barely a decade later it's happening again! I feel like everyone is starting to feel the loneliness, isolation, and anger at the system that I was feeling for months. I wouldn't wish that on anyone though. I hope everyone whose orders for Ripmos are postponed gets their bikes soon. I know it's hard when you're stuck waiting and it's unfair. Hopefully, things will all be back to normal soon, and we can all go on with our lives. Practice physical-distancing and stay healthy, and stay in touch with your friends and family. Hopefully we'll all be here to ride the trails soon.
    Ride on brother

    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  143. #1543
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    Iíll be in the garage most of the day.


  144. #1544
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau View Post
    Iíll be in the garage most of the day.

    Thatís a nice collection of parts!
    Good luck!


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  145. #1545
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    Nice!!! Congrats! Ah I love bikes!

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  146. #1546
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    Thanks rockhammer! Appreciate the honesty. Riding a bike will always makes you smile and feel good. Take care.

  147. #1547
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    Feeling more comfortable after every ride. The mud guard on the upper pivot worked great same with the DHR2 exo+ rear. Helps quite a bit to not have 30psi in the tires so I ordered a more accurate tire pressure gauge to dial it in better (thanks NateMob)


  148. #1548
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Feeling more comfortable after every ride. The mud guard on the upper pivot worked great same with the DHR2 exo+ rear. Helps quite a bit to not have 30psi in the tires so I ordered a more accurate tire pressure gauge to dial it in better (thanks NateMob)

    Dude, whatís your impressions switching the rear to the DHR2 vs Assegais? Feel the rotating mass difference or no?


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  149. #1549
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Dude, whatís your impressions switching the rear to the DHR2 vs Assegais? Feel the rotating mass difference or no?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Really just wanted something a little faster rolling than dual Assegais. Weight wise they both are pretty close (for me at least since my bike came with regular Exo Assegais) so within 50g or so.

  150. #1550
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    I ordered mine a week ago! I currently have a trek ex8 and I am exited for this bike.


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  151. #1551
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Really just wanted something a little faster rolling than dual Assegais. Weight wise they both are pretty close (for me at least since my bike came with regular Exo Assegais) so within 50g or so.
    Cool! Faster rolling always good thing.

    I want to say I think Iím done ďreplacing partsĒ for a while. I ordered the bike in a configuration that was 98% what I wanted. The coil was an experiment really, that turned out frigginí awesome.

    Plans are in place to make this AF/Coil model come in near 33Lbs. But this bike wonít see itís ultimate Pokťmon Stage 3 evolved state until parts are worn out and replaced over time- XTR cassettes, lighter maxxis tire options and if Iím lucky, maybe a set of eeWings later in the year.


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  152. #1552
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    Hey guys,

    I have experience more stiction in my DVO fork compared to my older RS Lyrik RC with the Debon AIR (in my previous Trek Remedy 8 2019), the difference is quite notable. Anyone has experience the same? any solution?

  153. #1553
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chino Farias View Post
    Hey guys,

    I have experience more stiction in my DVO fork compared to my older RS Lyrik RC with the Debon AIR (in my previous Trek Remedy 8 2019), the difference is quite notable. Anyone has experience the same? any solution?
    Is it like youíre first sitting static on the bike, no movement and then as you shift your weight slightly, the forks suddenly dive or compress to its sag? Mine does this. But is only noticeable when Iím static on the bike. On the move or in action, the forks had been way more supple than the Pike Iím used to, hence I havenít paid much attention to it.

    Think it could be the OTT setting?


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  154. #1554
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    Did you align your B-screw with the 51T mark/line on the backside of the rear derailleur?

    Here's the entire Shimano manual. I followed the chain length instructions starting on page 10 and so far so good on shifting.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...-u1om9kQaFS9Wg


    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
    Decided to dig into it today. Adjusted the B screw to line up with the 51t cog then there was zero tension on the chain in the highest gear (10t cog). Pulled the quick link out, checked to see I had 6 links extra so I decided to go to 5 since the manual says 5 or 6 is alright. Re adjusted the B screw again and all is well. Have a lot more clearance in the highest gear and the lowest gear is still happy. Woohoo!

  155. #1555
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Decided to dig into it today. Adjusted the B screw to line up with the 51t cog then there was zero tension on the chain in the highest gear (10t cog). Pulled the quick link out, checked to see I had 6 links extra so I decided to go to 5 since the manual says 5 or 6 is alright. Re adjusted the B screw again and all is well. Have a lot more clearance in the highest gear and the lowest gear is still happy. Woohoo!
    Right on! 12 speed Shimano shifts like a boss! Especially underload. My previous bike had a SRAM 12 speed Eagle X0 and it was very sensitive to any load during shifts.

    Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  156. #1556
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Is it like youíre first sitting static on the bike, no movement and then as you shift your weight slightly, the forks suddenly dive or compress to its sag? Mine does this. But is only noticeable when Iím static on the bike. On the move or in action, the forks had been way more supple than the Pike Iím used to, hence I havenít paid much attention to it.

    Think it could be the OTT setting?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Exactly, and the same happens when you stand besides the bike and push de fork from the stem (with the front brake blocked). It's not as stiction-free as the RS forks with the Debon Air spring.

    I played with the OTT but that didn't help. Maybe the seals are not very good or the oil that DVO use. IDK. But it's kinda frustrating, the fork is the only component that don't perform as I thought it would. Latest RS forks (2019- actuality) feel notably better so far.

  157. #1557
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chino Farias View Post
    Exactly, and the same happens when you stand besides the bike and push de fork from the stem (with the front brake blocked). It's not as stiction-free as the RS forks with the Debon Air spring.

    I played with the OTT but that didn't help. Maybe the seals are not very good or the oil that DVO use. IDK. But it's kinda frustrating, the fork is the only component that don't perform as I thought it would. Latest RS forks (2019- actuality) feel notably better so far.
    The initial sticktion is more than my old Pike but bombing trails hasn't been an issue at all.

  158. #1558
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chino Farias View Post
    Exactly, and the same happens when you stand besides the bike and push de fork from the stem (with the front brake blocked). It's not as stiction-free as the RS forks with the Debon Air spring.

    I played with the OTT but that didn't help. Maybe the seals are not very good or the oil that DVO use. IDK. But it's kinda frustrating, the fork is the only component that don't perform as I thought it would. Latest RS forks (2019- actuality) feel notably better so far.
    You mentioned the forks donít perform as well as you thought. Do you feel like there other deficiencies aside from the static stiction issue?

    Asking because both bdreynolds and I have the stiction issue but when the bike is on the move, I really donít feel it. Chunky, hard packed, rocky terrain are so much plusher to charge thru on and with less fatigue. Relatively speaking of course, since the Pike on my other bike is now 6 years old. So maybe when compared to current day forks, the diamond may not be up to par?


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  159. #1559
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    You mentioned the forks donít perform as well as you thought. Do you feel like there other deficiencies aside from the static stiction issue?

    Asking because both bdreynolds and I have the stiction issue but when the bike is on the move, I really donít feel it. Chunky, hard packed, rocky terrain are so much plusher to charge thru on and with less fatigue. Relatively speaking of course, since the Pike on my other bike is now 6 years old. So maybe when compared to current day forks, the diamond may not be up to par?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    For comparison: I have a 2019 Fox Factory 36 Kashima Grip2 fork that is waiting to go on the AF I plan to build soon, and even that has a tiny bit of stiction if the fork has been sitting.

    I will say that fork has less than the Fit4 damper that was in it previously but they all seem to have a little.

    I donít have experience with DVO but I know itís all great product and up to standard with anything out there.

    Suggestion: I like to take a cotton swab, dip it in Fox 20wt oil and apply it around the outer dust seal. Then depress your forks a few times. Wipe clean and repeat. This gets gunk out that is stuck just below the seal, lubes and will help with that stiction you guys are referring to.


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  160. #1560
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    Make sure you have the right bleed block in when bleeding your 4-pot brakes. Cracked ceramic piston.


  161. #1561
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    So.. lots of time to think and no time to ride due to lockdown in a foreign country so I've been piecing together my RAF build.
    Basically I'll take the NX build but with the following parts swapped in:

    - SLX groupset 170mm cranks with an XT shifter (microspline freehub on the Ibis stock aluminium wheels)
    - absolute black 32t oval
    - Magura MT5 brakes with 203mm storm rotors front and rear
    - OneUp V2 210mm dropper
    - Maxxis Agressor 2.5WT DD on the rear

    I'm seeing if my LBS can rebuild the rear wheel around an Onyx Vesper hub as well... (But that may be overkill...)

    Just need to decide:
    - Topaz or Jade X?

    I don't mind the extra weight and I only climb for the downs really, although I do like to be able to clean technical climbs. I also like to hit jumps and plan to race local Enduro and DH.


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  162. #1562
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    So.. lots of time to think and no time to ride due to lockdown in a foreign country so I've been piecing together my RAF build.
    Basically I'll take the NX build but with the following parts swapped in:

    - SLX groupset 170mm cranks with an XT shifter (microspline freehub on the Ibis stock aluminium wheels)
    - absolute black 32t oval
    - Magura MT5 brakes with 203mm storm rotors front and rear
    - OneUp V2 210mm dropper
    - Maxxis Agressor 2.5WT DD on the rear

    I'm seeing if my LBS can rebuild the rear wheel around an Onyx Vesper hub as well... (But that may be overkill...)

    Just need to decide:
    - Topaz or Jade X?

    I don't mind the extra weight and I only climb for the downs really, although I do like to be able to clean technical climbs. I also like to hit jumps and plan to race local Enduro and DH.


    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    That build deserves the Jade X, it provides more traction going up or down with it's slight weight penalty being its only downside. Once you have the coil you wont think twice about another air shock. The 3 position switch on the JX makes it versatile and awesome in any condition.

  163. #1563
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    So.. lots of time to think and no time to ride due to lockdown in a foreign country so I've been piecing together my RAF build.
    Basically I'll take the NX build but with the following parts swapped in:

    - SLX groupset 170mm cranks with an XT shifter (microspline freehub on the Ibis stock aluminium wheels)
    - absolute black 32t oval
    - Magura MT5 brakes with 203mm storm rotors front and rear
    - OneUp V2 210mm dropper
    - Maxxis Agressor 2.5WT DD on the rear

    I'm seeing if my LBS can rebuild the rear wheel around an Onyx Vesper hub as well... (But that may be overkill...)

    Just need to decide:
    - Topaz or Jade X?

    I don't mind the extra weight and I only climb for the downs really, although I do like to be able to clean technical climbs. I also like to hit jumps and plan to race local Enduro and DH.


    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    I really like the Jade X. Smooth, predictable and a set it and forget it shock.

  164. #1564
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    That build deserves the Jade X, it provides more traction going up or down with it's slight weight penalty being its only downside. Once you have the coil you wont think twice about another air shock. The 3 position switch on the JX makes it versatile and awesome in any condition.
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I really like the Jade X. Smooth, predictable and a set it and forget it shock.
    How often does the bladder need to be checked?


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  165. #1565
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    How often does the bladder need to be checked?


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    I check it before every other ride but itís been consistent. I put 200psi in before a ride and when I check the pressure itís around 150psi due to the shock pump introducing outside air in (the volume inside the bladder is very small so you see a bigger drop in pressure when connecting the shock pump).

  166. #1566
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    So.. lots of time to think and no time to ride due to lockdown in a foreign country so I've been piecing together my RAF build.
    Basically I'll take the NX build but with the following parts swapped in:

    - SLX groupset 170mm cranks with an XT shifter (microspline freehub on the Ibis stock aluminium wheels)
    - absolute black 32t oval
    - Magura MT5 brakes with 203mm storm rotors front and rear
    - OneUp V2 210mm dropper
    - Maxxis Agressor 2.5WT DD on the rear

    I'm seeing if my LBS can rebuild the rear wheel around an Onyx Vesper hub as well... (But that may be overkill...)

    Just need to decide:
    - Topaz or Jade X?

    I don't mind the extra weight and I only climb for the downs really, although I do like to be able to clean technical climbs. I also like to hit jumps and plan to race local Enduro and DH.


    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    Cool build ,
    Very similar to what I'm getting .
    I'm just going all out slx including breaks .. rear tire dhr2
    And keeping the air shock for popiness , learning to jump so ..

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  167. #1567
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    How often does the bladder need to be checked?


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    I've only had to top mine once after my first couple big rides (back in January), I was worried at first but it hasn't lost pressure since so i've chalked it up to the break in process and a couple big temperature swings.

  168. #1568
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    That build deserves the Jade X, it provides more traction going up or down with it's slight weight penalty being its only downside. Once you have the coil you wont think twice about another air shock. The 3 position switch on the JX makes it versatile and awesome in any condition.
    Thanks for the advice: it sounds spot on for what I like to do.
    I need to ride to my local trails, so I can lock it out for efficiency, then open it up and let it rip
    Having good traction on some of the technical climbs around me would be good also.

    As for thinking twice about "another" air shock... This will be my first full suspension MTB so I don't have a frame of reference! So yeah, the bike will feel amazing after riding DH etc on a 120mm 27.5+ hardtail. I don't think I'll even notice the weight too much: my hardtail isn't light at all with the rim inserts and serious 2.8" tires it came in at 34.2lbs when I weighed it in the shop before my DH race.

    When I get the Ripmo, I'll then lighten up the hardtail to make it more of an all day trail bike.

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  169. #1569
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Cool build ,
    Very similar to what I'm getting .
    I'm just going all out slx including breaks .. rear tire dhr2
    And keeping the air shock for popiness , learning to jump so ..

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Fair enough! I really want to try the Magura brakes

    As for air Vs coil for jumps, does it make that much difference? I do jumps, but only ever on a hardtail...

    Actually, I've bought the wife a San Quentin 2 in a size M as she wants to get into riding... I plan to "borrow" it as a dirt jumper lol!

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  170. #1570
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    That build is so close to what mine will be as well.

    RAF NX w Topaz and Ibis carbon bar

    Parts swap:

    Will install combo of SLX/XT in place of NX.
    - Xt Cassette and Shifter
    - SLX crank and rr der

    Not sure what I will do w tires. I have a brand new Aggressor in my garage that could be a go. Maybe a DHR2 or even DHF... Ive had great luck w DHF's front and rear and like the combo (3c up front, DC rear). When I demoed I thought the ass-guys were fine tires but certainly did feel slugish climbing.

    Going to try the brakes but already planning to go to Codes not so far down the road.

  171. #1571
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    Fair enough! I really want to try the Magura brakes

    As for air Vs coil for jumps, does it make that much difference? I do jumps, but only ever on a hardtail...

    Actually, I've bought the wife a San Quentin 2 in a size M as she wants to get into riding... I plan to "borrow" it as a dirt jumper lol!

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    What I've researched is .
    Coil will give you a more grounded feel , stick to ground .
    While air gives you a poppier feel.
    Also that depends on skills ... Mine on that perspective are very limited yet .



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  172. #1572
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    Thanks for the advice: it sounds spot on for what I like to do.
    I need to ride to my local trails, so I can lock it out for efficiency, then open it up and let it rip
    Having good traction on some of the technical climbs around me would be good also.

    As for thinking twice about "another" air shock... This will be my first full suspension MTB so I don't have a frame of reference! So yeah, the bike will feel amazing after riding DH etc on a 120mm 27.5+ hardtail. I don't think I'll even notice the weight too much: my hardtail isn't light at all with the rim inserts and serious 2.8" tires it came in at 34.2lbs when I weighed it in the shop before my DH race.

    When I get the Ripmo, I'll then lighten up the hardtail to make it more of an all day trail bike.

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    After initially messing with the different shock settings, I find that I am leaving it in wide open 99% of the time.

    The fully closed setting "locked-out", really does it's job; almost too good. The only time I would use this is for a steep, extended road climb.

    The Medium setting definitely provides more support, but I personally can't get over how loud the shock is in this setting. Thanks to TanMan and bdreynolds7 for responding to my IM's as I was initially concerned there was a problem with my shock! Turns out it's just the restricted oil getting pushed through a smaller opening, hence the noise.

    Wide-Open setting just feels like how the bike was designed and works well for me, so I just leave it there.

  173. #1573
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    If it makes a difference for those still considering Topaz vs Jade....

    Read somewhere a stock frame in med w Topaz comes in at 8.25 lbs.

    When my Large frame w Jade first came, I had a chance to pick up from LBS to apply some frame protection. The weight out of the box is 8.9lbs. So likely the difference is less than 0.6lbs if comparing within same frame sized.

    Iím not worried about lack of pop on a coil. Itís all how you set up the bike, especially the front. Even if pop is a tad under (which I canít tell), the bombiness and plushness more than makes up for it and the minimal weight penalty (1/2 lb). But also factor in your terrain.


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  174. #1574
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    You mentioned the forks donít perform as well as you thought. Do you feel like there other deficiencies aside from the static stiction issue?

    Asking because both bdreynolds and I have the stiction issue but when the bike is on the move, I really donít feel it. Chunky, hard packed, rocky terrain are so much plusher to charge thru on and with less fatigue. Relatively speaking of course, since the Pike on my other bike is now 6 years old. So maybe when compared to current day forks, the diamond may not be up to par?


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    Yep, compared to my previous 2019 Lyrik RC I feel more handpain with the Diamond and the forks feels kinda overwhelmed with repetitive hard/fast impacts no matter what I do with the set-up. I even contacted DVO to help me find a Set-up, and even though that helped, the fork can not match the performance of my previous RS fork. Don't get me wrong, the Diamond is a great fork, but I have tested the Lyrik Ultimate and previously owned a Lyrik RC 2019 and they felt better, I expected that a 999 USD fork would match the RS forks performance (at least the RC model).

  175. #1575
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomahawk66 View Post
    Fair enough! I really want to try the Magura brakes

    As for air Vs coil for jumps, does it make that much difference? I do jumps, but only ever on a hardtail...

    Actually, I've bought the wife a San Quentin 2 in a size M as she wants to get into riding... I plan to "borrow" it as a dirt jumper lol!

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    I have the Magura Brakes and paired with the HC3 lever they are killer. It's the perfect combo, best brakes I ever had.

    As for the shock choice, I fortunately tested both and decided to stay with the Topaz. The Jade feels too planted for my liking, the Topaz keeps the bike more nimble and agile. If my riding consisted more in shuttle/park rides and ride as fast as I can, I would have stayed with the topaz. But my riding is more agressive/Enduro oriented, so I stayed with the Topaz. Also, Keep in mind the most of Enduro EWS riders go air instead of coil.

  176. #1576
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    i just realized something with the dvo stuff i was taking the OTT as in 3-7 clicks for my weight range but its actually 3-7 full rotations.... so i only had 5 clicks of OTT whoops haha just with rockshox and fox stuff everything clicks not full rotations caught me out

  177. #1577
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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    i just realized something with the dvo stuff i was taking the OTT as in 3-7 clicks for my weight range but its actually 3-7 full rotations.... so i only had 5 clicks of OTT whoops haha just with rockshox and fox stuff everything clicks not full rotations caught me out


    Yep. I also noticed that in the written directions they said to turn the HSC one direction, but in the video it said the other way. The video was right and instantly made a big difference.

  178. #1578
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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    i just realized something with the dvo stuff i was taking the OTT as in 3-7 clicks for my weight range but its actually 3-7 full rotations.... so i only had 5 clicks of OTT whoops haha just with rockshox and fox stuff everything clicks not full rotations caught me out
    Hmm I'm going to have to check mine now.

  179. #1579
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Hmm I'm going to have to check mine now.
    Is that why my high speed compression knob feels and sounds like one is trying to turn a coin inside a bucket of wet sand?

    29 clicks the manual says, does this mean you turn the he HSC knob complete turns before a click can be felt?

    DVO products are so far so good for me but their ergo for knobs and air valve covers could use some improvements.


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  180. #1580
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    That build is so close to what mine will be as well.

    RAF NX w Topaz and Ibis carbon bar

    Parts swap:

    Will install combo of SLX/XT in place of NX.
    - Xt Cassette and Shifter
    - SLX crank and rr der

    Not sure what I will do w tires. I have a brand new Aggressor in my garage that could be a go. Maybe a DHR2 or even DHF... Ive had great luck w DHF's front and rear and like the combo (3c up front, DC rear). When I demoed I thought the ass-guys were fine tires but certainly did feel slugish climbing.

    Going to try the brakes but already planning to go to Codes not so far down the road.
    DHR2 3C front/Aggressor rear is primo for Front Range

    Also - why not build from frame up and not swap a bunch of new parts?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  181. #1581
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Is that why my high speed compression knob feels and sounds like one is trying to turn a coin inside a bucket of wet sand?

    29 clicks the manual says, does this mean you turn the he HSC knob complete turns before a click can be felt?

    DVO products are so far so good for me but their ergo for knobs and air valve covers could use some improvements.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ya would be nice if you could adjust OTT on the fly without a 5mm allen and the high speed compression knob is tough to get to and you can barely feel the detents. Still loving how the fork feels though!

  182. #1582
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    The initial sticktion is more than my old Pike but bombing trails hasn't been an issue at all.
    I had a lot of stiction on my Diamond from new. When compressing the fork on the bike it was really notchy. I never actually rode it, it was sent for a warranty service immediately but in the end when it came back, it still had some stiction.
    I ended up upgrading to an Onyx SC, which I haven't ridden yet either. But it also has some initial stiction / notchiness.
    Definitely not as smooth as a Fox 36.
    Maybe gets better after breaking in, but as I am riding a Fox 36 coil conversion mainly I haven't decided if I will keep the fork or not.

    I used to have a 27.5" Diamond but it was super smooth so I am suprised by this notchiness.

  183. #1583
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Ya would be nice if you could adjust OTT on the fly without a 5mm allen and the high speed compression knob is tough to get to and you can barely feel the detents. Still loving how the fork feels though!
    Donít forget- you have to let air out of the forks first before adjusting the OTT. Definitely not an on the fly adjustment.


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  184. #1584
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Donít forget- you have to let air out of the forks first before adjusting the OTT. Definitely not an on the fly adjustment.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yeahh thats a bit of a bummer for the initiall setup ..
    I guess I will be making alot of car trips and back again

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  185. #1585
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Donít forget- you have to let air out of the forks first before adjusting the OTT. Definitely not an on the fly adjustment.
    Does anyone know if/why this is the case? [Edit - I've just reviewed all the set up literature at DVO, and it doesn't mention to adjust OTT without air pressure. In these instructions, Air Pressure is step 2 of setup, OTT is step 3]
    http://tech.dvosuspension.com/wp-con...up-guide-2.pdf

    Since the negative spring is a coil, I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference when it's preloaded (before or after pressurization). I haven't been letting the air out when adjusting it, seems to work OK without, but wondering if anyone knows the reason for those instructions. Cheers.

  186. #1586
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    Being mindful of social distancing on the trails, I had to push deeper into the PMP trail network which I typically dread, particularly in the AZ summer. Its also awesome training grounds in which 1/2 the other trail users donít even venture near due to how unforgiving the terrain is. These are the sections Iíve yet to familiarize myself and get better due to all the comfortable excuses I give myself over the years.

    The ďdeeperĒsections are typically made up of very rocky ridges, some are loose and sharp and you have to watch for side wall cuts. Climbs are studded with undulated sections of giant(yes you guess it) rocks if youíre lucky but most often then not, these are a litany of step ups, step downs interrupting speed and flow. Pedal strikes the norm for the lowly-skilled (ahem, me!).

    As a ďre-familiarizingĒ run I was mindful not to do stupid things so as not to add to the strain on emergency responders and healthcare providers. At risk of sounding too cliche already with the RAFís accolades, climb features I could not clear before, I cleaned with this bike and wondered how it happened. Chucky downs that caused me to stop before, this bike just encouraged you to go for it. Unlike the HD3, fast hits doesnít throw this bike off course. Speed will come as familiarity builds but for now my synapses are firing on all cylinders learning some of the features as opposed to the humdrum and dull sections Iím used to.

    The RAF really is the sum of all its parts. The current Covid-19 situation also definitely has its hand in forcing me into ďgrowingĒ my mentality as a MTBiker. Similarly in other areas of life- Iím seeing people as a whole, are doing things different, trying new things- new online teaching tools my sons school is using. More online collaborations, charities stepping it up etc. Stay safe out there folks!



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  187. #1587
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Is that why my high speed compression knob feels and sounds like one is trying to turn a coin inside a bucket of wet sand?

    29 clicks the manual says, does this mean you turn the he HSC knob complete turns before a click can be felt?

    DVO products are so far so good for me but their ergo for knobs and air valve covers could use some improvements.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I found the HSC set up to be pretty tough, Its definitely not full rotations like the OTT but the HSC knob just seems like smooth turns on my fork, I really had to put my ear up to it and turn super slowly to hear/feel the resistance in rotation. there's no click about it.

    I searched high and low looking for tips on setting the HSC with the new diamond fork but there's nothing out there other than "turn it recommended amount of clicks.

  188. #1588
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Does anyone know if/why this is the case? [Edit - I've just reviewed all the set up literature at DVO, and it doesn't mention to adjust OTT without air pressure. In these instructions, Air Pressure is step 2 of setup, OTT is step 3]
    http://tech.dvosuspension.com/wp-con...up-guide-2.pdf

    Since the negative spring is a coil, I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference when it's preloaded (before or after pressurization). I haven't been letting the air out when adjusting it, seems to work OK without, but wondering if anyone knows the reason for those instructions. Cheers.
    My understanding of OTT is that you should be able to turn it freely, but that if you feel any resistance at all you may have to let out the fork's air pressure. Also that DVO recommends turning two full rotations when you make any adjustment in order to notice it.

  189. #1589
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    My understanding of OTT is that you should be able to turn it freely, but that if you feel any resistance at all you may have to let out the fork's air pressure. Also that DVO recommends turning two full rotations when you make any adjustment in order to notice it.
    Yeah, mine turns just fine for trail-side adjustments while pressurized. If the adjuster felt like it was binding, I might try letting the air out, but none of the setup instructions I found (and there are many) mentioned adjusting the OTT without air pressure. I wouldn't want people thinking they couldn't tune OTT while riding.

  190. #1590
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    the OTT as far i have read and understood only possibly binds when turning the knob to far one direction full clockwise or anti clockwise hence the possible need to remove air from the fork. as for the hsc lsc adjustments they are not full rotations like the OTT, that is why it caught me out as its the only thing ever on a fork that works with full rotations not clicks... as for smoothness its no way near as smooth as my pike rct3 with debonair spring or my 36 grip 2 fork but i wouldn't say its notchy like you guys are stating, it is summer here maybe it will in the cold? i'm tempted to drop the lowers and grease up the seals like i do on all my new forks. my fox 36 had WAY to much grease on the negative evol air spring it was reducing the chamber size! and bugger all on the seals, rockshox seem to be better at this on the negative greasing but there seals are minimal lubed too, be interesting to see what dvo are like...

  191. #1591
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annadel Adam View Post
    I found the HSC set up to be pretty tough, Its definitely not full rotations like the OTT but the HSC knob just seems like smooth turns on my fork, I really had to put my ear up to it and turn super slowly to hear/feel the resistance in rotation. there's no click about it.

    I searched high and low looking for tips on setting the HSC with the new diamond fork but there's nothing out there other than "turn it recommended amount of clicks.
    When I talked to DVO at the Sedona MTB Festival they told me to start at two full rotations from wide open. I mentioned how I couldnít feel or hear any ďclicksĒ and they said that is how it is.

  192. #1592
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    DHR2 3C front/Aggressor rear is primo for Front Range

    Also - why not build from frame up and not swap a bunch of new parts?
    For me it's a sensible cost equation: the Ripmo AF frame only with a DVO Diamond fork is $2,798... for 200 bucks more I can get the NX build. I'm happy with the wheels, handlebar, headset etc. So why not get this build and swap out the few parts I want to change? That way I also have the other parts to either sell on or use on other bikes.
    The truth is, the NX build is ridiculously good value.

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  193. #1593
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    Accidentally cranked the OTT too far in (towards sensitive) tonight and had to let the air out to get rid of the notchiness of it. All is well again

  194. #1594
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Does anyone know if/why this is the case? [Edit - I've just reviewed all the set up literature at DVO, and it doesn't mention to adjust OTT without air pressure. In these instructions, Air Pressure is step 2 of setup, OTT is step 3]
    http://tech.dvosuspension.com/wp-con...up-guide-2.pdf

    Since the negative spring is a coil, I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference when it's preloaded (before or after pressurization). I haven't been letting the air out when adjusting it, seems to work OK without, but wondering if anyone knows the reason for those instructions. Cheers.
    Did they recently make a revision to their setup guide?? I could have sworn I read this on their webpage.

    My OTT was setup by LBS on day I picked it up and I saw the mechanic completely air out the forks before dialing in the OTT then air back up again.

    Here are some more info (one quoted a DVO rep):

    https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...t-1079164.html


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  195. #1595
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Did they recently make a revision to their setup guide?? I could have sworn I read this on their webpage.

    My OTT was setup by LBS on day I picked it up and I saw the mechanic completely air out the forks before dialing in the OTT then air back up again.

    Here are some more info (one quoted a DVO rep):

    https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...t-1079164.html


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I think there are multiple versions floating around of set-up/tunes for some of their products. At least that's what I've seen when searching for things, so depending what page you are on it might say something slightly different. Almost like a newer webpage was created but the older one is still out there.

  196. #1596
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    local trails are shut down til May 3rd at least. Really want to test the durability of this Hans Dampf Super gravity rear tire.

  197. #1597
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    How do you know when your stem length is right? I have a 50mm currently but have no clue if I could benefit from a 40mm or not? Looking to go with a Spank Split stem and OneUp Carbon bars, 35mm diameter.

  198. #1598
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    Finally got it together.


  199. #1599
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau View Post
    Finally got it together.

    Looks great! Those tires also look good. Let us know how you like them.

  200. #1600
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annadel Adam View Post
    local trails are shut down til May 3rd at least. Really want to test the durability of this Hans Dampf Super gravity rear tire.
    That blows. Where you at?

    AZ trails are still open but who knows for how long? Iím trying to get out there as much as I can, while I still can. Safely of course.


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