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Thread: Ripmo AF Thread

  1. #4001
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Hey man, yea any advise would be appreciated. This weekend Iíll be tearing apart the rear end to grease bushings, bearings and to install the new-to-me shock.

    Iím fairly light at 150lbs. With gear on, maybe 158lbs. The shock now comes with zero volume spacers inside. And I only have 3 spacers shipped in a ziplock- how many should I install and at which chamber- positive, negative? I read some folks leave the spacers out.


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    Put one volume spacer in the + side none in the -. 178 psi in the bladder, 158 psi in the body. Start with 4 clicks from closed on the rebound. I think you will find that pretty close to the money.
    As far as lubing your rear end goes make sure you use a thick water resistant grease. I used Slickoleum thinking it would be ok and redid it multiple times trying to chase an annoying persistent cracking noise. As soon as I did it with the thick grease the noise went away and hasnít come back since. The Slickoleum isnít good enough for that area. Suspension only for Slickoleum. Make sure you put some, not too much, in the air chambers in the shock and on the seals before you reassemble it.

  2. #4002
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    The prize goes to Mr Reynolds. Turns out a left field guess in this case is also a good one. Mezzer Pro installed. Time for the learning about the ins and outs of this fork now.
    It looks beefy in there and feels quality.
    Nice! Looks great too. Just curious, how does the Mezzer compare weight wise to the Diamond?

  3. #4003
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Nice! Looks great too. Just curious, how does the Mezzer compare weight wise to the Diamond?
    The Mezzer is about 150g or so lighter. Thatís on paper but without weighing both it was a difference you could feel in your hands. Itís hard to believe looking at how beefy the Mezzer is but if you look closely you can see theyíve machined every bit of unnecessary metal out of the lowers and the reverse crown is shorter because it goes over a lower part of the tyre so less metal in it too and apparently the crown is also hollow.

  4. #4004
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    The Mezzer after my 2nd ride. Turns out familiarity breeds confidence. I had a bit more of an idea what to expect this time. The only adjustment I made was slowing the rebound to 5 clicks from closed instead of 6, thatís counted from the first click in from the stop on the rebound knob which isnít a full click in comparison to the others if you know what I mean. That pretty much puts the rebound right in the middle of its range.
    This fork is EPIC. In places where I would normally slow down a bit more on some rougher chunky corners or loose over hard pack corners I let the bike roll a bit more today and trusted the grip it would give me and it didnít disappoint. The gap between it and the Diamond performance wise just widened a bit more. In saying that this thing outperforms anything I have ridden to date. Including my previous Rock Shox with 2020 Lyrik Ultimate internals and Racing Bros fork seals and the 2020 Fox 36 Factory Grip 2. In fact it the difference between the 36 and this fork is the biggest. The Lyrik is the closest with the Diamond in the middle but this one has them all covered pretty convincingly.
    To say Iím incredibly impressed is an understatement. Iím dead set stoked.
    Only issue now is that while the Topaz has been performing and does perform pretty damn well it is a bit outgunned now. Most places itís doing a very good job but today I had 2 very nasty bottom outs on the shock and one was where Iíve never had one before. In exactly the same place the Mezzer was totally unfazed and just wanted more. Hmmm. The mind is ticking again.

  5. #4005
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    Time to purchase a Mara Pro

  6. #4006
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    Time to buy my Jade X !


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  7. #4007
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    I have a 160 Mezzer Pro on my Ripmo AF

    It is superb.

    So superb, that I'm working with my Topaz to match the awesomeness that is my Mezzer. During the annual service on my Topaz, I moved the single negative volume spacer to the positive chamber (ending with 0 in negative and 3 in positive)

    Required a significant bump in spring pressure to achieve Ibis' recommended sag (I think I added around 20 psi with the volume band change) - but I'm digging the plusher and more progressive feel of the Topaz
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  8. #4008
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    Time to purchase a Mara Pro
    Mmmm not so sure thatís the way I would go. Iíve read some good but quite a lot of bad as well. I have something in mind but havenít decided whether I will take the plunge yet or not.

  9. #4009
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Time to buy my Jade X !


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    Nah I wouldnít go that way either.

  10. #4010
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    Finally was able to ride my RAF on a proper downhill track. Best performing bike that I've ever had. Feels dialled with the factory recommendations. YMMV though.

    Baloc trails, San Pablo, Laguna, Philippines.


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  11. #4011
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    I have a 160 Mezzer Pro on my Ripmo AF

    It is superb.

    So superb, that I'm working with my Topaz to match the awesomeness that is my Mezzer. During the annual service on my Topaz, I moved the single negative volume spacer to the positive chamber (ending with 0 in negative and 3 in positive)

    Required a significant bump in spring pressure to achieve Ibis' recommended sag (I think I added around 20 psi with the volume band change) - but I'm digging the plusher and more progressive feel of the Topaz
    What do you weigh and what are your fork settings?

  12. #4012
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    What do you weigh and what are your fork settings?
    I've definitely got my COVID weight going right now... about 195lbs out of the shower

    I started with my Mezzer at 170 but the bike feels more balanced at 160.

    Main: 62PSI
    IRT: 95PSI

    Clicks from closed
    Rebound:4
    HSC: 2-3
    LSC: 5-6

    Love love love the way it keeps your front end up on steep, chunky trails that are full of stair step like rocks, roots and bombholes.

    Example: We shuttled Lemmon Drop in Tuscon yesterday and coming down the La Milagrosa trail you ride ride tons of STEEP rocky chunk.

    I've been trying to find my ideal air spring setup for several years now. I've ran Vorsprung Luftkappe, MRP Ramp and most recently had a Runt'd Lyrik before this (and have a Runt'd 36 on my hardtail)... I'm sold on the dual chamber positive spring systems.

    **Footnote**

    My setup is pretty progressive and I generally don't like uber plush forks... mainly, I love riding steep chunky trails and I hate a fork that dives a lot when you grab a bunch of front brake. The Mezzer is the best mix of plush and support I've found yet (my Runt'd and DSD tuned Lyrik being a close second).

  13. #4013
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    I've definitely got my COVID weight going right now... about 195lbs out of the shower

    I started with my Mezzer at 170 but the bike feels more balanced at 160.

    Main: 62PSI
    IRT: 95PSI

    Clicks from closed
    Rebound:4
    HSC: 1-2
    LSC: 4-5

    Love love love the way it keeps your front end up on steep, chunky trails that are full of stair step like rocks, roots and bombholes.

    Example: We shuttled Lemmon Drop in Tuscon yesterday and coming down the La Milagrosa trail you ride ride tons of STEEP rocky chunk.

    I've been trying to find my ideal air spring setup for several years now. I've ran Vorsprung Luftkappe, MRP Ramp and most recently had a Runt'd Lyrik before this (and have a Runt'd 36 on my hardtail)... I'm sold on the dual chamber positive spring systems.

    **Footnote**

    My setup is pretty progressive and I generally don't like uber plush forks... mainly, I love riding steep chunky trails and I hate a fork that dives a lot when you grab a bunch of front brake. The Mezzer is the best mix of plush and support I've found yet (my Runt'd and DSD tuned Lyrik being a close second).
    Youíre a fair but heavier then me Iím 74kg ready to ride which is about 163lb I think. It was recommended that I run 40 psi and 60 psi. That was from a Hayes test rider that is the same weight as me. That is a fair bit less than the set up guide recommends but the fork feels amazing. I will probably play with the air pressures a bit at some stage but Iím reluctant to because I donít have any practical way of carrying a shock pump with me while riding and I donít want to do a whole ride on a fork that doesnít feel as good as it does now if itís not right. The one thing that seems to remain a constant with all set ups though that Iíve noticed is that whatever your main air pressure is you just multiply that by 1.5 to get your IRT pressure. That seems to get you pretty close to the money.
    How good is the damper though. You can say to people that itís incredible but until you experience it first hand you just donít know how incredible. I mean I read a lot about the fork before I bought it but I was still blown away by it when I rode it and my expectations were high. How many times in life have you had high expectations and been disappointed because it turns out you expected too much. Not this time. Far from it.

  14. #4014
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    I just realized I misspoke... my compression settings were clicks from open. Just edited.

    I prefer to run less compression damping and let the air spring provide the support. Having this option for fork setup is what I like the most about a dual chamber positive air spring.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  15. #4015
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    I just realized I misspoke... my compression settings were clicks from open. Just edited.

    I prefer to run less compression damping and let the air spring provide the support. Having this option for fork setup is what I like the most about a dual chamber positive air spring.
    If you are counting your clicks from open your compression settings are actually pretty closed. 3 clicks of HSC is only 1 click from closed and 5 clicks of LSC is 4 from closed so one click firmer than mid range.
    Iím running my HSC open and LSC 2 clicks from open.

  16. #4016
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    If you are counting your clicks from open your compression settings are actually pretty closed. 3 clicks of HSC is only 1 click from closed and 5 clicks of LSC is 4 from closed so one click firmer than mid range.
    Iím running my HSC open and LSC 2 clicks from open.
    Correct, that's why I updated. My HSC is 1-2 clicks off open or 2-3 clicks from full closed. For rough trail riding, I like it more open - but if we're hitting big jump lines or drop lines, I'll add a click of HSC. Only having 4 clicks of HSC seemed like a narrow range at first, but I'm getting along with it.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  17. #4017
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    Hope everyone here had a good weekend! I just got back from highland with my af and had some findings/questions/concerns I wanted to share.

    Firstly, I installed a 2.6 dissector in the rear before the weekend and found on drops, g outs around turns, up steep jump faces, and harder landings you will get a lot of rub. Even though Ibis's website says the bike can accommodate a 2.6 - there really isnt a lot of clearance by the lower stays and I really dont enjoy feeling or hearing the rubbing.

    Though my main bother was the suspension setup problems I was having. On big drops and some overshot landings I was experiencing harsh bottoming. At first I thought it was my fork (which it likely also was) but after adding a few more psi's and a bunch more HSC I landed super flat off a step-up and felt a harsh bottomout. Seeing that my o-ring wasnt bottomed on my fork now I knew it must have been my shock. This just has me worried that if the feeling was coming from my shock the other times and not my fork that I've messed something up like the shock itself or my frame. Everything still seems to function normally. I must just need to add volume spacers or sacrifice some plushness by adding a bunch more psi in the can and maybe up the bladder pressure.

    Anyone else experience this or think I should worry about my shock/frame? Damage is really just my main concern here. The rest will be solvable. Also I was under the belief that the bottom of the DVO logo on the shock shaft was 30% sag. Can anyone confirm or deny? Anyone who reads I appreciate you taking the time.

    These were the biggest features I've hit to date and I'm still new to DVO suspension/the raf.

  18. #4018
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    Hope everyone here had a good weekend! I just got back from highland with my af and had some findings/questions/concerns I wanted to share.

    Firstly, I installed a 2.6 dissector in the rear before the weekend and found on drops, g outs around turns, up steep jump faces, and harder landings you will get a lot of rub. Even though Ibis's website says the bike can accommodate a 2.6 - there really isnt a lot of clearance by the lower stays and I really dont enjoy feeling or hearing the rubbing.

    Though my main bother was the suspension setup problems I was having. On big drops and some overshot landings I was experiencing harsh bottoming. At first I thought it was my fork (which it likely also was) but after adding a few more psi's and a bunch more HSC I landed super flat off a step-up and felt a harsh bottomout. Seeing that my o-ring wasnt bottomed on my fork now I knew it must have been my shock. This just has me worried that if the feeling was coming from my shock the other times and not my fork that I've messed something up like the shock itself or my frame. Everything still seems to function normally. I must just need to add volume spacers or sacrifice some plushness by adding a bunch more psi in the can and maybe up the bladder pressure.

    Anyone else experience this or think I should worry about my shock/frame? Damage is really just my main concern here. The rest will be solvable. Also I was under the belief that the bottom of the DVO logo on the shock shaft was 30% sag. Can anyone confirm or deny? Anyone who reads I appreciate you taking the time.

    These were the biggest features I've hit to date and I'm still new to DVO suspension/the raf.
    I needed to shift all 3 volume spacers to the positive chamber to stop from bottoming on drops and g-outs, and I'm only around 170lbs. I run minimal bladder pressure for a supple stroke, and the volume spacers really help by adding some ramp up at the end.

  19. #4019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    I needed to shift all 3 volume spacers to the positive chamber to stop from bottoming on drops and g-outs, and I'm only around 170lbs. I run minimal bladder pressure for a supple stroke, and the volume spacers really help by adding some ramp up at the end.
    I have to send my fork to DVO for warranty so I'm considering sending my shock along with it and just having them do a custom tune on both.

  20. #4020
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    Also I was under the belief that the bottom of the DVO logo on the shock shaft was 30% sag. Can anyone confirm or deny?
    From the Ibis manual: "Ripmo / Ripmo AF / Mojo HD4
    Shoot for .55Ē (~14mm) of sag." 14mm sag/55mm stroke = 25.45% sag. For my Topaz, 14mm puts the o-ring right in the middle of the DVO letters/logo.

    On my shock, the bottom of the "white" part of the logo (1/2 of the V and all of the O) is 18mm, which is 32% sag.

    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    I needed to shift all 3 volume spacers to the positive chamber to stop from bottoming on drops and g-outs, and I'm only around 170lbs. I run minimal bladder pressure for a supple stroke, and the volume spacers really help by adding some ramp up at the end.
    I did the same at 195lbs. 0 negative spacers, 3 positive spacers. Required a good bump in spring pressure (as negative volume is increased), but I'm happy with it. I find I prefer progressive suspension setups over linear.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  21. #4021
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    Topaz tuning

    Putting a topaz on my ripmo v1 and looking for a little tuning advice. Iím 195-200 kitted and ride rooty rocky New England singletrack. Lots of steep rollers and occasional 2-6í drops. Any advice on a good starting point with spacers pressure and such? Thanks

  22. #4022
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    200 kitted on a v1 hitting 6' drops?
    Put every spacer you own in the positive and try 210psi in the main and 200 in the bladder.

  23. #4023
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    They have transitions!

  24. #4024
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    Has anyone been able to get their hands on the DVO progressive spring to try out? The 425-500 has been sold out every time I look.

    Curious on any feedback out there. Especially curious if anyone has been able to compare the Jade X w/ progressive spring to the Topaz.

  25. #4025
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Has anyone been able to get their hands on the DVO progressive spring to try out? The 425-500 has been sold out every time I look.

    Curious on any feedback out there. Especially curious if anyone has been able to compare the Jade X w/ progressive spring to the Topaz.
    I have the Topaz T3 and Progressive spring Jade X. Only about a month of riding on the Ripmo V2 in general (~30 hours) but so far prefer the Topaz for trail riding. The pedal platform feels better. And the Topaz still bombs pretty well on chunk. But Coil undoubtedly handles rough stuff better with crazy traction. I had a hard time telling the difference between the 450lb and the 425 progressive on the few rides I had it. But planning to switch back to the Jade X soon now that I've had more time with the bike. I also did not bottom the 450lb spring so if you have that issue that's probably where progressive shines.

    Might've had sag set incorrectly on the Jade X because the bike really felt like it didn't pedal nearly as well as the Topaz - this was with both the 450 and 425 progressive. I'm 170 rider weight for reference.

  26. #4026
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    @2supple- thanks for confirming the direction I am leaning towards. I want to set up my RAF to have more support and pop for 85% of my trail conditions and bought a used Topaz to see if I like it. At the same time, still loving my Jade X and agree the traction is insane over chunks large or small. If the Topaz work out, I think Iíll be keeping my Jade for park days and trips where I know there will be long fun descents or I donít have to mess with settings much. 400# spring is perfect for my skinny @ss but curious to try a heavier spring.

    @OzIbis- thank you for the initial Topaz settings advise. Iím sure Iíll have more questions as I start taking things apart. I can do simple wrenching but taking apart the rear end is rather intimidating for some reason. Havenít started (and mostly procrastinating) because Iíve been messing around on my HD3, getting that one out of storage, ready for trails as the RAF gets ready to move on to the work stand next.


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  27. #4027
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2supple View Post
    I have the Topaz T3 and Progressive spring Jade X. Only about a month of riding on the Ripmo V2 in general (~30 hours) but so far prefer the Topaz for trail riding. The pedal platform feels better. And the Topaz still bombs pretty well on chunk. But Coil undoubtedly handles rough stuff better with crazy traction. I had a hard time telling the difference between the 450lb and the 425 progressive on the few rides I had it. But planning to switch back to the Jade X soon now that I've had more time with the bike. I also did not bottom the 450lb spring so if you have that issue that's probably where progressive shines.

    Might've had sag set incorrectly on the Jade X because the bike really felt like it didn't pedal nearly as well as the Topaz - this was with both the 450 and 425 progressive. I'm 170 rider weight for reference.
    Thanks for the info. It sounds like it's more "versatile" to spend the extra bucks and pick up a Topaz vs putting more money into a progressive coil. Like TanMan, I really like the Jade but everyone says such good things about the Topaz, it's really compelling to try it out as well. Especially if it makes the bike a little quicker and responsive on the mellower trails.

  28. #4028
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    Ride report. 178ish pounds ready to ride. Swapped Jade X spring from 450 to a 425-500 spring and aired up the Onyx to 70 PSI and left my rebound and LSC/HSC as per Ibis recs. Loved the bike. Ate up the gnar and was poppy as heck! I think I may be in love.

  29. #4029
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    Ride report. 178ish pounds ready to ride. Swapped Jade X spring from 450 to a 425-500 spring and aired up the Onyx to 70 PSI and left my rebound and LSC/HSC as per Ibis recs. Loved the bike. Ate up the gnar and was poppy as heck! I think I may be in love.
    Very cool - I just put my Jade X w/ progressive back on. How did you setup your sag? Or any idea how many turns of preload you added once the coil was snug against the adjustor?

  30. #4030
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    Hey Tanman - you get that Topaz mounted and tuned? OzIbis has a great baseline here. You and I are very similar riding weights. W 1 spacer in the pos, none in the neg, I am liking roughly 29% sag - but it works well IMO from 27 and frankly all the way to 32% depending on what you prefer.

    Its interesting that I got to speak w a former SRAM tech that still consults and hes been involved to create tunes btw Ibis and RockShox and totally agreed that the Topaz having a neg spacer installed doesn't allow the suspension to "be all it can be"... meaning the Ibis ethos is they want all their bikes to pedal "xc firm". His perspective was that the AF can be so good when properly tuned and removing the neg spacer a good starting point for more than just lightweight riders.

    I'm approx 145lbs riding weight -
    - air pressure 138psi
    - bladder pressure 172psi
    - 1 pos spacer, 0 neg
    - Rebound 2 clicks from OPEN... nice and active, without being a pogo
    She's a magic carpet ride

  31. #4031
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Thanks for the info. It sounds like it's more "versatile" to spend the extra bucks and pick up a Topaz vs putting more money into a progressive coil. Like TanMan, I really like the Jade but everyone says such good things about the Topaz, it's really compelling to try it out as well. Especially if it makes the bike a little quicker and responsive on the mellower trails.
    I think this is pretty accurate. My other issue with the Jade X so far (and this may be with other coils too) is the "Mid" position is really only a climb position, not a trail position. As soon as you hit drops or descents in mid you need to flip to Open or the shock has too slow rebound and zero pop. If your rides are straight up and straight down it's not an issue. But flowy trails are a problem on the Jade unless you don't mind fiddling with the switch. Alternatively you could leave the Jade wide open but that felt bouncy to me. With the Topaz you have a nice middle ground in trail position where it's just a tad poppy and rebound is okay. Also Jade X closed is too firm - you're basically bouncing everywhere with the full lock. Topaz firm adds value on trails by keeping some traction and slightly more support vs full lockout.

    TLDR Topaz = good trail shock, Jade X is a better DH shock

    If anyone has had different experience with Jade X I would love to hear it. Maybe my setup is wrong. The green coil looks so badass.. I want to love it more for trail riding...

  32. #4032
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2supple View Post
    Very cool - I just put my Jade X w/ progressive back on. How did you setup your sag? Or any idea how many turns of preload you added once the coil was snug against the adjustor?
    After reading this mega thread and the pinkbike one, I'm a believer that one should have a minimal preload as possible in the spring. So I snug it up and give it half a turn. I don't bother with sag on the coil. I go by feel. Sent a few jumps, sessioned a few gnarly lines and did a few drops. Adjust rebound and that's it. The prorate spring felt much more supple than my 450 but also ramped up nicely when needed.

  33. #4033
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    After reading this mega thread and the pinkbike one, I'm a believer that one should have a minimal preload as possible in the spring. So I snug it up and give it half a turn. I don't bother with sag on the coil. I go by feel. Sent a few jumps, sessioned a few gnarly lines and did a few drops. Adjust rebound and that's it. The prorate spring felt much more supple than my 450 but also ramped up nicely when needed.
    Interesting. I agree but if you're sag is too low that means you need a bigger spring. Pretty sure you don't want to be out of your sag range on DW link or it won't pedal right. But i'm not an expert, this is just what i've been told.

  34. #4034
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    that's fair. I didn't measure it. Maybe I should've. But it still pedaled quite nicely uphill over techy stuff so I wasn't concerned. I could've gone with the 475-575 spring but in my mind that may be a bit too stiff. Also it was out of stock. lol

  35. #4035
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    Have any of you jumped back on your ďolderĒ bike lately after spending extensive time on your Ripmo? What a difference current gen geo makes.

    Spent last 2 days tuning up my HD3 and rode it for the first time since June yesterday. The HD is easily over 5LBs lighter and one would assume the climbs up your usual techy rocky inclines would be way easier compared to the RAF. Nope! On a short punchy 12 degree grade climb, I could not even make it halfway up after getting hung up on a small step up. In this particular uphill section, I clean it on the RAF every single time.

    This comparison is of course very anecdotal and entirely by the seat of my pants and who knows, I might not be sufficiently fueled prior to the ride. But one thing is for certain, I had to
    adjust my saddle to slide forward to mimic the RAFs steeper seat tube as I felt my quads were
    just tiring out way too quickly with the axles ďfurther outĒ front as compared to the Ripmo. The RAF definitely ruined me as far as my desire to be able to jump back and forth between the 2 bikes. Still my HD3 though and so much easier to pop and practice wheelies with that short wheelbase.


  36. #4036
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    Ride report. 178ish pounds ready to ride. Swapped Jade X spring from 450 to a 425-500 spring and aired up the Onyx to 70 PSI and left my rebound and LSC/HSC as per Ibis recs. Loved the bike. Ate up the gnar and was poppy as heck! I think I may be in love.
    This is the type of effect that led me wanting the progressive spring in the first place... a little more POP. Sounds like reviews are kind of mixed, but maybe it has a lot to do with where your weight falls in relation to the stock and progressive springs. I'm 155 and at the top limit of the 400 spring. You're probably in the same boat at 178 with the 450. Who knows though...

    I have to believe the green pops more too

  37. #4037
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Have any of you jumped back on your ďolderĒ bike lately after spending extensive time on your Ripmo? What a difference current gen geo makes.
    Yep! I held on to my v1 Bronson for my kid to ride. I initially thought I'd alternate between it and the RAF, but I only rode it once the whole summer. However, I've ridden it a couple times lately when screwing around on the local trails after work. Mainly because the RAF makes some trails too easy; just point and shoot. But I also do like how the smaller, lighter bike is a little easier to move around when you're on the same old trails and need to spice it up a little.

    Not gonna lie... That HD Mojo 5 is pretty intriguing now that I am a solid fan of the DW-Link. Can't help but wonder how it would compare to the RAF.

  38. #4038
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    What do you think it would take for Ibis to make a big bike to go against the Wreckoning, Firebird, Megatower, etc?

    170 front/160 rear with Ibisí flavor of DW Link? Mmmmm tasty
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  39. #4039
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Yep! I held on to my v1 Bronson for my kid to ride. I initially thought I'd alternate between it and the RAF, but I only rode it once the whole summer. However, I've ridden it a couple times lately when screwing around on the local trails after work. Mainly because the RAF makes some trails too easy; just point and shoot. But I also do like how the smaller, lighter bike is a little easier to move around when you're on the same old trails and need to spice it up a little.

    Not gonna lie... That HD Mojo 5 is pretty intriguing now that I am a solid fan of the DW-Link. Can't help but wonder how it would compare to the RAF.
    I was under impression that Ibis went too far with the HD platform by going 170 on the travel and killing the bikeís agile nature.

    But my opinion is starting to change with the new geo of current gen bikes. And canít diss something I havenít tried. So many new bikes, so little funds....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  40. #4040
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    What do you think it would take for Ibis to make a big bike to go against the Wreckoning, Firebird, Megatower, etc?

    170 front/160 rear with Ibisí flavor of DW Link? Mmmmm tasty
    I was literally on the phone to a dealer a month ago with ok on the end of my tongue on the 2021 Evil Wreckoning. That bike had my attention in a huge way. The one and only thing that made me not do it was the seat post angle. On paper itís good but the actual angle with a long dropper would be compromised I believe. It lays back above the elbow ALOT.
    The Pivot Firebird in that Sandy colour looks amazing also but since fitting the Mezzer Iíve acknowledged what I probably knew in my heart. Iím not going anywhere. The Ripmo rips. It doesnít have a weak point. Itís not just a jack of all trades and a master of none either. I see it as a master of everything. I literally canít fault it. Especially with the new fork they are a match made in heaven.

  41. #4041
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    It's pretty freaking solid. With a 170 lyrik and a super deluxe with a whole bunch of volume spacers to allow over 30% sag and keep the support/bottom out resistance in check this bike is smashing it. With the 170 and high sag it probably rides more like a bike with a static head angle closer to 64 degrees.

    With the spacers and additional compression damping of this fork and shock even though it's an aggressive setup the suspension motion is really well controlled. I can see the advantage of the carbon, a little lighter and stiffer would be amazing, but it is still just so good, especially the harder you ride it.

  42. #4042
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    Hi there,i know it has been spoken here but canīt find the info that i need,iīve changed from a SRAM NX to a Shimano SLX (FC-M7100) crankset and bottom bracket ,iīm using the changuide adapter,what bottom bracket spacer should i use? Thanks.

  43. #4043
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    If you guys like to watch other Ripmo owner riding, here is my youtube chanel, big air time on this little enduro sled ! Enjoy and subscribe ! Thanks guys


    https://youtu.be/IWFG4tUEStY

  44. #4044
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    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    If you guys like to watch other Ripmo owner riding, here is my youtube chanel, big air time on this little enduro sled ! Enjoy and subscribe ! Thanks guys


    https://youtu.be/IWFG4tUEStY
    That gap jump is pretty gnarly. Hard to say how far that is via GoPro, but it looks forever away. Well done man.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  45. #4045
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyderRider View Post
    That gap jump is pretty gnarly. Hard to say how far that is via GoPro, but it looks forever away. Well done man.
    Thanks man ! It sure is far away haha.. the gopro effect never render true justice to our stunts

  46. #4046
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    Hi there,i know it has been spoken here but canīt find the info that i need,iīve changed from a SRAM NX to a Shimano SLX (FC-M7100) crankset and bottom bracket ,iīm using the changuide adapter,what bottom bracket spacer should i use? Thanks.
    Ripmo has a 73mm shell
    Shimano 11 & 12 speed 73= 2.5 DS / none ND
    ISCG Adapter thickness is 2.5 mm

  47. #4047
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Ripmo has a 73mm shell
    Shimano 11 & 12 speed 73= 2.5 DS / none ND
    ISCG Adapter thickness is 2.5 mm
    thanks mate

  48. #4048
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Thanks for the info. It sounds like it's more "versatile" to spend the extra bucks and pick up a Topaz vs putting more money into a progressive coil. Like TanMan, I really like the Jade but everyone says such good things about the Topaz, it's really compelling to try it out as well. Especially if it makes the bike a little quicker and responsive on the mellower trails.
    Alright I put the green giant (progressive) back on and went for a night ride. Measured sag and it helped on the climbs with a few turns of pre-load. Definitely a monster truck on the way down. Plenty of pop and traction. I notice the progressive didn't seem quite as "monster-trucky" as the linear 450lb though - not sure if this is due to too much preload or the progressive spring. My guess is it's the progressive spring.. almost feels like a smaller shock because you have a harder time using full travel. Maybe too progressive depending on weight? But you gain suppleness.

    The Jade X is growing on me after this ride. But not sure the progressive spring is better. If it's too hard to use the full travel that isn't good, maybe due to the Ripmo's already progressive design in the AF/V2. When I rode the standard 450lb a couple weeks ago I remember it being easier to use travel.

    Will do at least two more rides this week. Hopefully get a chance to swap coils and play around with preload.

  49. #4049
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    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    If you guys like to watch other Ripmo owner riding, here is my youtube chanel, big air time on this little enduro sled ! Enjoy and subscribe ! Thanks guys


    https://youtu.be/IWFG4tUEStY
    Those are some meaty gaps. Nice.

    Are you running a progressive coil?!?! I'd think you'd bottom out for sure if your stock coil is anywhere around 30% sag. Seems like most the guys I see jumping big gaps are on air shocks.

  50. #4050
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    the preload is probably messing with you. Try and back off. This bike climbs very well without having to preload the spring. You could always just switch the flip to a firmer setting.

  51. #4051
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    the preload is probably messing with you. Try and back off. This bike climbs very well without having to preload the spring. You could always just switch the flip to a firmer setting.
    Settled on the preload at one full turn past the point where it stops rattling. Anything less and it felt like it sat a touch low for pedaling. Same preload for both the standard and progressive spring. This is all relative to bodyweight. I'm 165 on the scale, 170ish kitted. Hopefully this isn't too far off the mark...

    Spent a couple hours messin around in the garage. Compared the stock 450 vs the progressive 425-500 back-to-back in front of the house and seemed like the stock 450 felt slightly "poppy-er" just bouncing around in the street... maybe the progressive is better suited for park days because it's harder to use full travel. But need real rides to decide. I hope I end up preferring the progressive. The green looks 10x cooler.

  52. #4052
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Ripmo has a 73mm shell
    Shimano 11 & 12 speed 73= 2.5 DS / none ND
    ISCG Adapter thickness is 2.5 mm
    Hi,received an email answer from Ibis tell me not to use any spacer with Shimano BB and chainguide adapter:

    Hi Paulo,
    Congrats on your new Ibis!
    That chain guide adapter is the only "spacer" you need between the BB cups and the frame on the drive side/ no spacers on the non drive side. Shimano uses one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side and that ISCG tab replaces that.
    -Chuck

  53. #4053
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    Hi,received an email answer from Ibis tell me not to use any spacer with Shimano BB and chainguide adapter:

    Hi Paulo,
    Congrats on your new Ibis!
    That chain guide adapter is the only "spacer" you need between the BB cups and the frame on the drive side/ no spacers on the non drive side. Shimano uses one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side and that ISCG tab replaces that.
    -Chuck
    hi all,

    maybe it depends on the shimano crank:
    see https://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/ripmo-v...s-1150835.html


    IBIS Spec (V2) - as for the RAF
    Chainline 52mm chainline, 168mm Q Factor / 1 Spacer DS

    Shimano Spec (XTR FC-M9120 )
    Q-factor: 168 mm - Chainline: 52 mm


    I started with 1 spacer on DS but I can't fix the crank right .... strange....
    spindle/axle was to "wide" - ended up with 2 DS and 1 NonDS - instead of recommended 1 spacer

  54. #4054
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    Just to add a data point i'm 175 pounds running a 450-550 progressive cane creek coil on the cane creek DB IL shock and it feels good with about 2-3 turns preload and default shock settings. It is not as poppy as the topaz, but is an absolute monster truck DH. I climbed 3000+ on it on my second or third ride on the shock without any more issue than I had on air shock.

    Also still have my Topaz for sale if anyone wants it. I don't really need both.

  55. #4055
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Those are some meaty gaps. Nice.

    Are you running a progressive coil?!?! I'd think you'd bottom out for sure if your stock coil is anywhere around 30% sag. Seems like most the guys I see jumping big gaps are on air shocks.
    Im about 190lbs naked, I ride fast and gnarly dh/freeride and somehow find my 500lbs spring enough. Had a 550 at first and it was bucking me.

    Would love to try a progressive just to feel the difference but I think its fine like it is. I almost never really feel harsh bottom out even on land to flat.

    My struggle is more with the diamond, I added oil to the positive chamber and it still bottom out hard with a clunk sometimes....

  56. #4056
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    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    Im about 190lbs naked, I ride fast and gnarly dh/freeride and somehow find my 500lbs spring enough. Had a 550 at first and it was bucking me.

    Would love to try a progressive just to feel the difference but I think its fine like it is. I almost never really feel harsh bottom out even on land to flat.
    Funny, this is exactly how I'd describe myself and I've also landed on 500 with about 185psi in the bladder. I have a sprindex spring, so I've experimented from 490 all the way to 550 in 5lbs. increments. Anything above 500 was a bit too choppy and I think a progressive spring is unnecessary with this bike and its kinematics.
    Ibis Ripmo AF Jade X // Commencal Absolut

  57. #4057
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    Relatively easy-ish job to check bushings and lube but took me an entire day, between running back and forth LBS to being careful not to lose any parts and trying to follow Ibisí Ripmo disassembly process.

    The bushings and o-rings were fine but they were bone dry so slapped gollops of marine grease on. One of the bolts to my upper link was found to be stripped, though still usable and Iíll need to replace that one soon.

    The rear triangle was reassembled late last night. This morning, the new-to-me Topaz and clevis assembly will go in. Hoping for an afternoon ride if everything goes well- fingers crossed.





    For those curious what the weight diff is between the Jade X and Topaz T3 (with 1 spacer)- the Topaz is 0.65lbs lighter.

  58. #4058
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Relatively easy-ish job to check bushings and lube but took me an entire day, between running back and forth LBS to being careful not to lose any parts and trying to follow Ibisí Ripmo disassembly process.

    The bushings and o-rings were fine but they were bone dry so slapped gollops of marine grease on. One of the bolts to my upper link was found to be stripped, though still usable and Iíll need to replace that one soon.

    The rear triangle was reassembled late last night. This morning, the new-to-me Topaz and clevis assembly will go in. Hoping for an afternoon ride if everything goes well- fingers crossed.





    For those curious what the weight diff is between the Jade X and Topaz T3 (with 1 spacer)- the Topaz is 0.65lbs lighter.
    Did you remove the extremely fine o-rings from both sides of the upper triangle where the clevis attaches and clean behind them?
    Now youíve done it you know itís not at all intimidating or hard and it is a job that would take less than an hour because you can just hook in without reading instructions. I think 2nm is a little on the light side for the torque settings on the lower link though. It feels like you arenít even tightening it.
    Anyway get ready for quite a noticeable difference in feel. It is a very worthwhile and virtually free improvement. I think all the stuffing around with suspension settings is bordering on being a waste of time until youíve done this because it will change once the link is working how it should be.
    Make sure you check your sag after doing this too because I had to add pressure to achieve the same sag after everything was lubed due to the reduced friction.

  59. #4059
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    1mo in and Iím happy AF

    First of all, thanks for all of the info Iíve gathered off this form! Iíve been eyeing the Ripmo AF for longer than Iíd like to admit. For those coming here debating on making the move there isnít much more to be said, this thing does it all. Iím coming from a Trek Fuel EX8 27.5+ and the Ripmo feels like itís in a completely different category. It climbs like a XC and descends like a downhill bike, what more do you want!?

    A few things I am looking for some help with...
    I am trying to get away from wearing a backpack and would like to put as many things as I can on the bike; multi tool, bottle cage, CO2, inner tube. Iíve read a lot of the posts but canít find a general consensus on what fits the frame best. I do have a pork chop, but I think it takes away from how good this frame looks (maybe just me). Any suggestions would help, and feel free to post some pics... lets be honest, who doesnít love showing off their rig?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-bff398b0-6cb4-4440-8833-58942fdba9cf.jpg  


  60. #4060
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Did you remove the extremely fine o-rings from both sides of the upper triangle where the clevis attaches and clean behind them?
    Now youíve done it you know itís not at all intimidating or hard and it is a job that would take less than an hour because you can just hook in without reading instructions. I think 2nm is a little on the light side for the torque settings on the lower link though. It feels like you arenít even tightening it.
    Anyway get ready for quite a noticeable difference in feel. It is a very worthwhile and virtually free improvement. I think all the stuffing around with suspension settings is bordering on being a waste of time until youíve done this because it will change once the link is working how it should be.
    Make sure you check your sag after doing this too because I had to add pressure to achieve the same sag after everything was lubed due to the reduced friction.
    Oh yea! All o rings came out for clean and lube.

    I was In for a little scare when undoing one of the inner facing bolts on the upper link, when one of them came out, there was a loud TWANNG and then, my rear triangle shifted ever so slightly. Came to find out later, that bolt was stripped in the first 3 threads. I really doubt it was me as I was unbolting in a straight angle. Had some trouble later realigning clevis during assembly but nothing serious. Hope this doesnít mean my frame is ever so slightly tweaked. I didnít check the female threads on the frame, should have but it was late last night and I was getting tired.

    Anyway bike is all together now with the Topaz installed and weighed ever so slightly lighter!

    My question is-with the above recommended setup, I keep getting more than the recommend 14mm sag, Iím at 15.1. Is this OK? And this is where the O-ring comes underneath the DVO letters on the shaft. Someone above posted their sag came in the MIDDLE of the DVO letters. Out my front yard and street test, small jumps off pavements and I already noticed O-ring was at 75% travel. My bladder is near 180 psi. I popped another spacer in the positive chamber and itís not much better.

    Any ideas on the excessive sag or should I just take it out to the trails and see what happens.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  61. #4061
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Oh yea! All o rings came out for clean and lube.

    I was In for a little scare when undoing one of the inner facing bolts on the upper link, when one of them came out, there was a loud TWANNG and then, my rear triangle shifted ever so slightly. Came to find out later, that bolt was stripped in the first 3 threads. I really doubt it was me as I was unbolting in a straight angle. Had some trouble later realigning clevis during assembly but nothing serious. Hope this doesnít mean my frame is ever so slightly tweaked. I didnít check the female threads on the frame, should have but it was late last night and I was getting tired.

    Anyway bike is all together now with the Topaz installed and weighed ever so slightly lighter!

    My question is-with the above recommended setup, I keep getting more than the recommend 14mm sag, Iím at 15.1. Is this OK? And this is where the O-ring comes underneath the DVO letters on the shaft. Someone above posted their sag came in the MIDDLE of the DVO letters. Out my front yard and street test, small jumps off pavements and I already noticed O-ring was at 75% travel. My bladder is near 180 psi. I popped another spacer in the positive chamber and itís not much better.

    Any ideas on the excessive sag or should I just take it out to the trails and see what happens.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hey Tanman,

    I've got a similar issue with my upper link and main frame threads. I believe that a slightly tweaked frame has caused me to previously strip the aluminum inner threads. Definitely check those, because the aluminum threads will strip way easier than the hardware. Let me know what you find, because I'll be contacting Ibis soon about this, and I'd love to hear your feedback. I meticulously played around with my link to find out the best way of getting it back into place with the misalignment, but every 3 bolts I tightened up created resistance in the 4th one, and the end result was some half-assed aluminum threads left in there.

  62. #4062
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Oh yea! All o rings came out for clean and lube.

    I was In for a little scare when undoing one of the inner facing bolts on the upper link, when one of them came out, there was a loud TWANNG and then, my rear triangle shifted ever so slightly. Came to find out later, that bolt was stripped in the first 3 threads. I really doubt it was me as I was unbolting in a straight angle. Had some trouble later realigning clevis during assembly but nothing serious. Hope this doesnít mean my frame is ever so slightly tweaked. I didnít check the female threads on the frame, should have but it was late last night and I was getting tired.

    Anyway bike is all together now with the Topaz installed and weighed ever so slightly lighter!

    My question is-with the above recommended setup, I keep getting more than the recommend 14mm sag, Iím at 15.1. Is this OK? And this is where the O-ring comes underneath the DVO letters on the shaft. Someone above posted their sag came in the MIDDLE of the DVO letters. Out my front yard and street test, small jumps off pavements and I already noticed O-ring was at 75% travel. My bladder is near 180 psi. I popped another spacer in the positive chamber and itís not much better.

    Any ideas on the excessive sag or should I just take it out to the trails and see what happens.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I run mine at 16.5mm which on my shock is 30% sag. I think 30% feels really good. Going to 2 volume spacers at our light weight makes the rear end a bit of a pogo stick which you have to dial in too much rebound to stop. For me 1 volume spacer in the + felt WAY better. On my shock shaft the inside of the lettering is 27.5% sag and just outside the lettering is 30%. Iím assuming that they will all be the same but I donít know. Seems too much of a coincidence that it works that way I doubt that just fluked it putting the letters there. I put all my gear on yesterday arvo and did a very accurate sag set up on the bike and to get 30% Iím at 160psi in the body and 178psi in the bladder.
    Itís a personal thing possibly but I strongly recommend trying 30%.
    As far as your frame goes mine has a pretty good alignment. I didnít struggle too much getting the bolts back in. They are just fiddly with the position they are in. I just started all of them before tightening any. It is VERY important to make sure they are straight relative to the threads in the triangle and not focus on the link and triangle. Itís pretty easy to start them a little crooked.

  63. #4063
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    Ripmo AF Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Hey Tanman,

    I've got a similar issue with my upper link and main frame threads. I believe that a slightly tweaked frame has caused me to previously strip the aluminum inner threads. Definitely check those, because the aluminum threads will strip way easier than the hardware. Let me know what you find, because I'll be contacting Ibis soon about this, and I'd love to hear your feedback. I meticulously played around with my link to find out the best way of getting it back into place with the misalignment, but every 3 bolts I tightened up created resistance in the 4th one, and the end result was some half-assed aluminum threads left in there.
    Glad to learn Iím not the only one. I looked at that dang thing 6 different ways to Sunday as well, trying to deduce best ways to disassemble without jacking things up but mainly followed Ibisí Ripmo Assembly and Disassembly videos and the sequence within (except for pressing the bushings out since mine are still in good shape).

    The vids showed that the lower links are the last to be removed, which helps the frame track straight. That and during reassembly
    I ensured the 4 bolts are only threaded in first before tightening. Figures right? Maybe I was tired. This was a massive job by my standard.

    Articulating the triangle up and down (Topaz not in yet) and I did not notice any binding or notchiness in the linkages so Iím going to leave this for now until I order the new bolts.


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  64. #4064
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    I run mine at 16.5mm which on my shock is 30% sag. I think 30% feels really good. Going to 2 volume spacers at our light weight makes the rear end a bit of a pogo stick which you have to dial in too much rebound to stop. For me 1 volume spacer in the + felt WAY better. On my shock shaft the inside of the lettering is 27.5% sag and just outside the lettering is 30%. Iím assuming that they will all be the same but I donít know. Seems too much of a coincidence that it works that way I doubt that just fluked it putting the letters there. I put all my gear on yesterday arvo and did a very accurate sag set up on the bike and to get 30% Iím at 160psi in the body and 178psi in the bladder.
    Itís a personal thing possibly but I strongly recommend trying 30%.
    As far as your frame goes mine has a pretty good alignment. I didnít struggle too much getting the bolts back in. They are just fiddly with the position they are in. I just started all of them before tightening any. It is VERY important to make sure they are straight relative to the threads in the triangle and not focus on the link and triangle. Itís pretty easy to start them a little crooked.
    Thanks for the advise again OzIbis!

    Since Iím lazy bastard and the 2nd spacer is already in, Iím going to test it as is. Iíll be bringing my shock pump with me to adjust things on the go. If Uncle Pogo rears his ugly head, Iíll swing back the truck and remove the 2nd spacer. All down to on trail feel tomorrow!

    Someone said this took them an hour? Flipping took me 2 days! A lot to clean, lube, adjust. I9 hubs disassemble to grease pawls, drive train deep clean etc. Ok I binged watched some Netflix with my kid but still! Iím pooped and my workshopís a real mess but sheís all put back together now.

    Thanks to all that provided guidance. Love this thread and community.




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  65. #4065
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Glad to learn Iím not the only one. I looked at that dang thing 6 different ways to Sunday as well, trying to deduce best ways to disassemble without jacking things up but mainly followed Ibisí Ripmo Assembly and Disassembly videos and the sequence within (except for pressing the bushings out since mine are still in good shape).

    The vids showed that the lower links are the last to be removed, which helps the frame track straight. That and during reassembly
    I ensured the 4 bolts are only threaded in first before tightening. Figures right? Maybe I was tired. This was a massive job by my standard.

    Articulating the triangle up and down (Topaz not in yet) and I did not notice any binding or notchiness in the linkages so Iím going to leave this for now until I order the new bolts.


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    Donít worry about doing anything with the rocker link as they are bearings and if they feel good they probably are good. DEFINITELY do the bottom linkage though. Itís easy to do just take your cranks out and put the top linkages back together first and everything will stay in place then just undo the retainer bolts and the Allen key bolts and slide them apart. They are easier to do than the top ones. If youíve already gone this far then why not do it properly and do the whole lot then you can forget about it for a year or so.

  66. #4066
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Donít worry about doing anything with the rocker link as they are bearings and if they feel good they probably are good. DEFINITELY do the bottom linkage though. Itís easy to do just take your cranks out and put the top linkages back together first and everything will stay in place then just undo the retainer bolts and the Allen key bolts and slide them apart. They are easier to do than the top ones. If youíve already gone this far then why not do it properly and do the whole lot then you can forget about it for a year or so.
    Mine was all done. Top link and the bottom ones too. Checked, cleaned and lubed them all.

    I was relating to a possible better sequence of disassembly so we donít run into the same issues that Roadhouse and I did hence I mentioned the bottom links.

    Did you press all your bushings out when you did yours or have to replace any?


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  67. #4067
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Mine was all done. Top link and the bottom ones too. Checked, cleaned and lubed them all.

    I was relating to a possible better sequence of disassembly so we donít run into the same issues that Roadhouse and I did hence I mentioned the bottom links.

    Did you press all your bushings out when you did yours or have to replace any?


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    No mine were all spot on.
    Ok gotcha. When I do mine I donít pull all the linkages apart at once. I do one area at a time that way everything sits where it should and makes reassembly pretty easy. A lot less parts laying around at any given time too.

  68. #4068
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Glad to learn Iím not the only one. I looked at that dang thing 6 different ways to Sunday as well, trying to deduce best ways to disassemble without jacking things up but mainly followed Ibisí Ripmo Assembly and Disassembly videos and the sequence within (except for pressing the bushings out since mine are still in good shape).

    The vids showed that the lower links are the last to be removed, which helps the frame track straight. That and during reassembly
    I ensured the 4 bolts are only threaded in first before tightening. Figures right? Maybe I was tired. This was a massive job by my standard.

    Articulating the triangle up and down (Topaz not in yet) and I did not notice any binding or notchiness in the linkages so Iím going to leave this for now until I order the new bolts.


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    that happened to me as well . I had that twangg when i was unscrewing my front shock bolt and then the bolt was stuck half way and it didn't want to screw in or out. after inspection the front shock mount threads were damaged and they need to be repaired or need to change frame. I am in contact with my German dealer and we are waiting since a week for IBIS reply. i only rode the bike for around 500 km and that was the third time I unscrew the bolt since it is a very weird incident.

  69. #4069
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Cakes View Post
    First of all, thanks for all of the info Iíve gathered off this form! Iíve been eyeing the Ripmo AF for longer than Iíd like to admit. For those coming here debating on making the move there isnít much more to be said, this thing does it all. Iím coming from a Trek Fuel EX8 27.5+ and the Ripmo feels like itís in a completely different category. It climbs like a XC and descends like a downhill bike, what more do you want!?

    A few things I am looking for some help with...
    I am trying to get away from wearing a backpack and would like to put as many things as I can on the bike; multi tool, bottle cage, CO2, inner tube. Iíve read a lot of the posts but canít find a general consensus on what fits the frame best. I do have a pork chop, but I think it takes away from how good this frame looks (maybe just me). Any suggestions would help, and feel free to post some pics... lets be honest, who doesnít love showing off their rig?
    Welcome to the community!

    I was waiting for the longest time for Ibis to come up with the pork chop bag. Itís not as well made as the original PC bag Blackburn made for the Mojos but good enough. I put a tube, 2 tire levers and 2 CO2 canisters in there. I can squeeze in a multi tool if I want to.

    I also carry a Oneup pump which houses the EDC tool (so I donít have to carry separate multi tool) and the whole thing is attached to the side of my bottle cage.

    You can go a different route with specialty straps that can hold a tube, levers, CO2 and multi tool all in one to the frame, which also gives you that elite Enduro look! Wolftooth, RaceFace and Backcountry sells these. But be warned that over time, Velcroís get worn out and becomes TFOB (Things Falling Off Bike- a term I stole from the aerospace industry). Exposed tubes close to the ground also get loads of dirt dust caked onto it, over time, the micro particles actually eat into the folds of the tube, rendering them useless- which is why I prefer an enclosed stowage method now.


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  70. #4070
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    Ripmo AF Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Hey Tanman - you get that Topaz mounted and tuned? OzIbis has a great baseline here. You and I are very similar riding weights. W 1 spacer in the pos, none in the neg, I am liking roughly 29% sag - but it works well IMO from 27 and frankly all the way to 32% depending on what you prefer.

    Its interesting that I got to speak w a former SRAM tech that still consults and hes been involved to create tunes btw Ibis and RockShox and totally agreed that the Topaz having a neg spacer installed doesn't allow the suspension to "be all it can be"... meaning the Ibis ethos is they want all their bikes to pedal "xc firm". His perspective was that the AF can be so good when properly tuned and removing the neg spacer a good starting point for more than just lightweight riders.

    I'm approx 145lbs riding weight -
    - air pressure 138psi
    - bladder pressure 172psi
    - 1 pos spacer, 0 neg
    - Rebound 2 clicks from OPEN... nice and active, without being a pogo
    She's a magic carpet ride
    So ok here it is. Impressions from Jade X to the Topaz: most of the assumptions on coil vs air shock difference are true and Iím sure are already well documented in this massive thread but still adding a data point wouldnít hurt.

    Weigh 158lbs (with Riding gear)
    Sag and air pressure: a tad under 160 psi ( canít tell since needle on my pump meter donít go down to that resolution). Resultant sag is 15.5mm.

    Spacers: 2 in + chamber. 0 in - chamber.

    Bladder: 175psi

    Rebound: Initially what I thought to be 4 clicks from open was actually 4 clicks from closed. My Pork Chop bag was obscuring the knob.

    The Good:
    The key difference that stood out to me was how much poppier the Topaz was over the Jade X. Launching off small features on the trail, I felt I was getting more air and pop.
    I really like the more poppy feeling of the Topaz! Turning up the Bladder pressure also makes the bike feel more lively. Last thing is of course weight but not by a lots and certainly canít even feel when you are pedaling. The coil is 0.65lbs heavier for those curious.

    The Bad:
    I was warned about small bump chatter when I switched from the coil. Didnít think much of it till I experienced it myself. Small bumps sucked on my first test ride. Tried airing down both body and bladder psi and didnít get much improvement. Iím hesitant to go 1 spacer for now as I can use up most of the travel when there are jumps or going down very chunky sections. Not sure how much effect spacers tune can have on small bump sensitivity since this only comes into play in the final bits of the shockís full travel. However, 1 extra spacer does mean you donít have to run higher pressure for sag, which does help with small bump.

    Summary
    Remains to be seen if I can tune out the extra small bump harness on the Topaz or is this down to the inherent difference of air vs coil? For those of us on Coil, we are spoilt for sure since once you get your spring weight figured out, itís pretty much set and forget. And the small bump compliance is truly a magic carpet experience (the chunkier the more obvious this becomes) like none other.

    My Topaz rebound was also mistakenly set so Iíll be turning the knob back to only between 2-3 clicks from full open (+) see how if this improves. Last resort is to go to just 1 spacer, beyond this not sure what much else I can do. Not a lot of knobs to mess with unlike the X2.


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  71. #4071
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    So ok here it is. Impressions from Jade X to the Topaz: most of the assumptions on coil vs air shock difference are true and Iím sure are already well documented in this massive thread but still adding a data point wouldnít hurt.

    Weigh 158lbs (with Riding gear)
    Sag and air pressure: a tad under 160 psi ( canít tell since needle on my pump meter donít go down to that resolution). Resultant sag is 15.5mm.

    Spacers: 2 in + chamber. 0 in - chamber.

    Bladder: 175psi

    Rebound: Initially what I thought to be 4 clicks from open was actually 4 clicks from closed. My Pork Chop bag was obscuring the knob.

    The Good:
    The key difference that stood out to me was how much poppier the Topaz was over the Jade X. Launching off small features on the trail, I felt I was getting more air and pop.
    I really like the more poppy feeling of the Topaz! Turning up the Bladder pressure also makes the bike feel more lively. Last thing is of course weight but not by a lots and certainly canít even feel when you are pedaling. The coil is 0.65lbs heavier for those curious.

    The Bad:
    I was warned about small bump chatter when I switched from the coil. Didnít think much of it till I experienced it myself. Small bumps sucked on my first test ride. Tried airing down both body and bladder psi and didnít get much improvement. Iím hesitant to go 1 spacer for now as I can use up most of the travel when there are jumps or going down very chunky sections. Not sure how much effect spacers tune can have on small bump sensitivity since this only comes into play in the final bits of the shockís full travel. However, 1 extra spacer does mean you donít have to run higher pressure for sag, which does help with small bump.

    Summary
    Remains to be seen if I can tune out the extra small bump harness on the Topaz or is this down to the inherent difference of air vs coil? For those of us on Coil, we are spoilt for sure since once you get your spring weight figured out, itís pretty much set and forget. And the small bump compliance is truly a magic carpet experience (the chunkier the more obvious this becomes) like none other.

    My Topaz rebound was also mistakenly set so Iíll be turning the knob back to only between 2-3 clicks from full open (+) see how if this improves. Last resort is to go to just 1 spacer, beyond this not sure what much else I can do. Not a lot of knobs to mess with unlike the X2.


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    Iím telling you man lose the 2nd spacer. At our weight I found the shock almost sucked with the 2 spacers in there. Once I took it out everything improved quite a lot. Donít forget that upping the air pressure in the body also ups the pressure in the - spring. So to my way of thinking seeing as though weíve taken the spacer out of the - that makes the - have a bigger effect vs the + than it would with the - volume spacer in there. So you can run the extra pressure in the body for the support but also get increased plushness off the top. Obviously there is a limit because if you just keep going up in pressure your sag wonít be correct.

    I mentioned in a previous post that I had a couple of nasty bottom outs in the shock since switching to the Mezzer and one was where Iíve never bottomed out before. I feel like Iím going faster through the same areas with the Mezzer and that the shock felt a little outgunned now. I set the sag very accurately a couple of days ago and ended up at 160 psi in the body at approx 73kg or 160lb ready to ride weight which gave me 30% sag and hit the same section. No bottom out at either place even the one where Iíve bottomed out multiple times before. The 2 extra psi made the difference. Iím still using all the travel but no nasty knock on landing. I have found that this shock uses all its travel in most situations but somehow manages to take bigger hits even though you find youíve used all its travel on smaller stuff.

    Iím not saying you are going to get it as plush as a coil and I canít compare because Iíve never ridden a coil but I find with the settings Iím using the shocks performance is pretty damn good. I think itís quite plush but like I said without experiencing a coil I canít compare. Also each rebound click makes a decent difference. You need to have it set so it JUST stops any pogo effect but only just. It will feel like itís packing and become harsher feeling if your rebound is too slow. Conversely if you set it too fast it feels like the wheel is slapping down into the next obstacle also giving a harsh feeling.

    I recon just set it to 158-160 psi in the body 178 psi in the bladder and 0 spacers in the - and ONLY 1 in the + and play with your rebound from there. If you canít find a really good set up with those ballpark figures then maybe the Topaz isnít for you. As a reference Iím running 5 clicks of rebound from closed. We are SO close in weight that set up has to be close.

    One thing that we havenít taken into account also is how much weight you are actually carrying on your bike. I carry zero extra on the bike. You may need to weigh how much the stuff is you are putting on there because that is effectively increasing your riding weight. Itís sprung weight but the suspension doesnít know whether that is what you weigh or what you weight plus your extras. It just feels the weight and responds accordingly. Just a thought.

  72. #4072
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Iím telling you man lose the 2nd spacer. At our weight I found the shock almost sucked with the 2 spacers in there. Once I took it out everything improved quite a lot. Donít forget that upping the air pressure in the body also ups the pressure in the - spring. So to my way of thinking seeing as though weíve taken the spacer out of the - that makes the - have a bigger effect vs the + than it would with the - volume spacer in there. So you can run the extra pressure in the body for the support but also get increased plushness off the top. Obviously there is a limit because if you just keep going up in pressure your sag wonít be correct.

    I mentioned in a previous post that I had a couple of nasty bottom outs in the shock since switching to the Mezzer and one was where Iíve never bottomed out before. I feel like Iím going faster through the same areas with the Mezzer and that the shock felt a little outgunned now. I set the sag very accurately a couple of days ago and ended up at 160 psi in the body at approx 73kg or 160lb ready to ride weight which gave me 30% sag and hit the same section. No bottom out at either place even the one where Iíve bottomed out multiple times before. The 2 extra psi made the difference. Iím still using all the travel but no nasty knock on landing. I have found that this shock uses all its travel in most situations but somehow manages to take bigger hits even though you find youíve used all its travel on smaller stuff.

    Iím not saying you are going to get it as plush as a coil and I canít compare because Iíve never ridden a coil but I find with the settings Iím using the shocks performance is pretty damn good. I think itís quite plush but like I said without experiencing a coil I canít compare. Also each rebound click makes a decent difference. You need to have it set so it JUST stops any pogo effect but only just. It will feel like itís packing and become harsher feeling if your rebound is too slow. Conversely if you set it too fast it feels like the wheel is slapping down into the next obstacle also giving a harsh feeling.

    I recon just set it to 158-160 psi in the body 178 psi in the bladder and 0 spacers in the - and ONLY 1 in the + and play with your rebound from there. If you canít find a really good set up with those ballpark figures then maybe the Topaz isnít for you. As a reference Iím running 5 clicks of rebound from closed. We are SO close in weight that set up has to be close.

    One thing that we havenít taken into account also is how much weight you are actually carrying on your bike. I carry zero extra on the bike. You may need to weigh how much the stuff is you are putting on there because that is effectively increasing your riding weight. Itís sprung weight but the suspension doesnít know whether that is what you weigh or what you weight plus your extras. It just feels the weight and responds accordingly. Just a thought.
    Man I wish my specialized branded shock pump can go down to 2 psi resolution.

    3rd test run today. Bladder and body pressure remained same but now the rebound is set correctly. 2 clicks from full open instead of 4 clicks from full close (slow) haha big difference. Immediately the small bump improved. Less chatter felt through the frame.

    Since I had plenty of sunlight left, circled back to the truck and YES, REMOVED the 2nd spacer just for S&Gs. Pumped everything back up. Same pressures. Left rebound alone. Sag is still the same around 30%. Hit the same loop with lots of rock gardens and granite section and rear felt a tad more smooth and only bottomed out once though it wasnít harsh at all. Honestly I feel the rebound being nearly wide open had a bigger effect for small bump but gonna leave the one spacer for now.

    I donít know, I like the sprite of the Topaz and right now small bump is 90% where I want it, meaning I can live with it given all the other pros. First world problem but now debating whether I should sell the Jade X!!!?


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  73. #4073
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Man I wish my specialized branded shock pump can go down to 2 psi resolution.

    3rd test run today. Bladder and body pressure remained same but now the rebound is set correctly. 2 clicks from full open instead of 4 clicks from full close (slow) haha big difference. Immediately the small bump improved. Less chatter felt through the frame.

    Since I had plenty of sunlight left, circled back to the truck and YES, REMOVED the 2nd spacer just for S&Gs. Pumped everything back up. Same pressures. Left rebound alone. Sag is still the same around 30%. Hit the same loop with lots of rock gardens and granite section and rear felt a tad more smooth and only bottomed out once though it wasnít harsh at all. Honestly I feel the rebound being nearly wide open had a bigger effect for small bump but gonna leave the one spacer for now.

    I donít know, I like the sprite of the Topaz and right now small bump is 90% where I want it, meaning I can live with it given all the other pros. First world problem but now debating whether I should sell the Jade X!!!?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    C

    Clearly there is only one solution to the Jade X vs Topaz dilemna. Keep the coil on the AF and buy a V2 with an air shock. Problem solved. Listing my kidney on Ebay now.

  74. #4074
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    Ripmo AF Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    C

    Clearly there is only one solution to the Jade X vs Topaz dilemna. Keep the coil on the AF and buy a V2 with an air shock. Problem solved. Listing my kidney on Ebay now.
    I feel ya man! Just came home from groceries with the wife. We got 2 lbs of lunch meats. When the guy behind the deli handed me our bag of sliced ham, my thoughts immediately went- man! Imagine having this weight off the AF aka getting the V2!

    But seriously the Topaz turned the dial on the AF from fast plow to more of a energetic, poppy bike. This experiment has starved off my urge to buy the V2 for while. Iím more than happy where Iíve arrived on the AF platform .


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  75. #4075
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Man I wish my specialized branded shock pump can go down to 2 psi resolution.

    3rd test run today. Bladder and body pressure remained same but now the rebound is set correctly. 2 clicks from full open instead of 4 clicks from full close (slow) haha big difference. Immediately the small bump improved. Less chatter felt through the frame.

    Since I had plenty of sunlight left, circled back to the truck and YES, REMOVED the 2nd spacer just for S&Gs. Pumped everything back up. Same pressures. Left rebound alone. Sag is still the same around 30%. Hit the same loop with lots of rock gardens and granite section and rear felt a tad more smooth and only bottomed out once though it wasnít harsh at all. Honestly I feel the rebound being nearly wide open had a bigger effect for small bump but gonna leave the one spacer for now.

    I donít know, I like the sprite of the Topaz and right now small bump is 90% where I want it, meaning I can live with it given all the other pros. First world problem but now debating whether I should sell the Jade X!!!?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Iíve got a digital shock pump that reads down to 1 psi above 100 and to 0.5 psi below 100 because it I can only show 3 figures on the screen but that accuracy below 100 is very valuable to me now since using the Mezzer because I found out how much difference only 2 psi can make to the feel of the suspension. 2 psi made the difference to my Topaz as well. It was the difference between bottoming or not. Might be a worthwhile investment.
    Iím a bit surprised you didnít feel like the shock was much more settled and controlled going back to 1 spacer in the +. I thought it was a pretty decent improvement. It was too much of a pogo stick on technical step ups and the like. It would over extend the shock then settle after the impact. I felt it also made the suspension a bit over active on the up stroke for my weight in virtually every situation.
    On another note Iíve made another pretty exciting upgrade which I will reveal hopefully later in the week.

  76. #4076
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Iíve got a digital shock pump that reads down to 1 psi above 100 and to 0.5 psi below 100 because it I can only show 3 figures on the screen but that accuracy below 100 is very valuable to me now since using the Mezzer because I found out how much difference only 2 psi can make to the feel of the suspension. 2 psi made the difference to my Topaz as well. It was the difference between bottoming or not. Might be a worthwhile investment.
    Iím a bit surprised you didnít feel like the shock was much more settled and controlled going back to 1 spacer in the +. I thought it was a pretty decent improvement. It was too much of a pogo stick on technical step ups and the like. It would over extend the shock then settle after the impact. I felt it also made the suspension a bit over active on the up stroke for my weight in virtually every situation.
    On another note Iíve made another pretty exciting upgrade which I will reveal hopefully later in the week.
    Gasp! You got the Push 11-6 coil shock didnít you!!?


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  77. #4077
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    I feel ya man! Just came home from groceries with the wife. We got 2 lbs of lunch meats. When the guy behind the deli handed me our bag of sliced ham, my thoughts immediately went- man! Imagine having this weight off the AF aka getting the V2!

    But seriously the Topaz turned the dial on the AF from fast plow to more of a energetic, poppy bike. This experiment has starved off my urge to buy the V2 for while. Iím more than happy where Iíve arrived on the AF platform .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    For sure. It's why I've kept the tube, tools and sometimes water off my AF and in a hip pack, so I get the same weight of the V2 with all that crap on the bike! It's just like I'm 2 lbs fatter instead of the bike! I also went and lightened up the pack setup as much as possible so it's not even noticeable now. My buddy just got a V2 with an X2 and still has the Assegais on it. I had to burst his bubble and let him know his bike weighed the same as mine as-is with just a water bottle on it! I have the Topaz, lighter tires and had my bottle on my pack at the time.

    If one was to do a Ripmo dream build though, it makes you wonder. A V2 with a Mezzer Pro and a top shelf coil like the Push would get you an amazing ride and still be a bit lighter than the AF....

    Side note, just got back from a week in St. George Utah riding the mesa tops and other rocky trails on the AF. The trails there are very unique so it was fun to test the AF out on something totally different than the Sierras. I think a Ripley may be a better match there but the AF still did great. Felt plush and efficient still. Loved it!
    2020 Ripmo AF

  78. #4078
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    For sure. It's why I've kept the tube, tools and sometimes water off my AF and in a hip pack, so I get the same weight of the V2 with all that crap on the bike! It's just like I'm 2 lbs fatter instead of the bike! I also went and lightened up the pack setup as much as possible so it's not even noticeable now. My buddy just got a V2 with an X2 and still has the Assegais on it. I had to burst his bubble and let him know his bike weighed the same as mine as-is with just a water bottle on it! I have the Topaz, lighter tires and had my bottle on my pack at the time.

    If one was to do a Ripmo dream build though, it makes you wonder. A V2 with a Mezzer Pro and a top shelf coil like the Push would get you an amazing ride and still be a bit lighter than the AF....

    Side note, just got back from a week in St. George Utah riding the mesa tops and other rocky trails on the AF. The trails there are very unique so it was fun to test the AF out on something totally different than the Sierras. I think a Ripley may be a better match there but the AF still did great. Felt plush and efficient still. Loved it!
    Weight aside- Iím wondering though, if the stiffness of carbon is palpable for mere mortals like us. Could you beg, borrow or steal your buddyís V2 for a quick comparison?

    And since we are on dream builds, letís talk about the AF- imagine an AF as light as possible but with real tires that donít blow up at the first sign of razor sharp rocks. Iím trying to get there by an attrition basis but the following equipment simply refuses to die despite me riding 3 x a week:

    - Slx cassette (want an XTR)
    - Front Assegai (change to DHF)

    Dream components (budget willing):
    - CaneCreek Eewings (shave 200 grams over the SLX)
    - Titanium handlebars (negate weight savings but would be really cool to keep with the AFís metal theme)
    - Maybe a better fork like OzIbisí Mezzer. Shave maybe 100grams? That and the Diamondís Hit and miss and finicky behavior I donít know man..

    I was in St George for 1 day 4 weeks ago. Was a stop gap before returning back to Phoenix from Park City. Rode More Cowbells, JEM and the surrounding area and yea these trails definitely prefer something a little less travel and more XC. You got to try Park City next season! Same state, totally different terrain.




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  79. #4079
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Gasp! You got the Push 11-6 coil shock didnít you!!?


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    Nah I wonít keep you guessing this time.
    EXT Storia V3

  80. #4080
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Weight aside- Iím wondering though, if the stiffness of carbon is palpable for mere mortals like us. Could you beg, borrow or steal your buddyís V2 for a quick comparison?

    And since we are on dream builds, letís talk about the AF- imagine an AF as light as possible but with real tires that donít blow up at the first sign of razor sharp rocks. Iím trying to get there by an attrition basis but the following equipment simply refuses to die despite me riding 3 x a week:

    - Slx cassette (want an XTR)
    - Front Assegai (change to DHF)

    Dream components (budget willing):
    - CaneCreek Eewings (shave 200 grams over the SLX)
    - Titanium handlebars (negate weight savings but would be really cool to keep with the AFís metal theme)
    - Maybe a better fork like OzIbisí Mezzer. Shave maybe 100grams? That and the Diamondís Hit and miss and finicky behavior I donít know man..

    I was in St George for 1 day 4 weeks ago. Was a stop gap before returning back to Phoenix from Park City. Rode More Cowbells, JEM and the surrounding area and yea these trails definitely prefer something a little less travel and more XC. You got to try Park City next season! Same state, totally different terrain.




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    Very cool man. Never been to Park City. I rode Jem, Dead Ringer and Cowbells after riding the Guacamole area. The Jem trails were very mellow. It was my "tired" end of day ride and even then, it was a snoozer. Zen, Barrel, Guac and Wire Mesa were all good. I didn't get to Gooseberry, Little Creek or Thunder Mountain because we were also doing family hike days in Zion and other places. Fun place for sure. We'd like to get up to Park City and Draper next season. Make it a loop. I demo'd a Pivot Shuttle too. Meh. First time on an ebike and that place doesn't have big enough climbs to take advantage of it. It'd be better in Tahoe where we have 2,000'+ climbs. The bike also wasn't near as dialed as my AF and felt rattly and not plush in any way, even after I loosened up both ends.

    Re. the V2 stiffness, I'm sure he'll let me borrow it for some laps. We have snow now so it might be a while until it's gone though. I demo'd the V1 carbon Ripmo along with a bunch of other bikes last year, both carbon and alloy. I rode all bikes on the same trail. It's a good enduro bike tester with gapped doubles, rocks, etc. The V1 only felt stiffer than some of the 4 bar bikes I tested. I attribute that to the pivots in the rear triangle on those 4 bars. The lower link Santa Cruz bikes, both the Bronson V3 and Hightower felt stiffer and more stout than the Ripmo AF but not by that much. Literally the only person I have heard say the the AF feels flexy vs the V2 is Jeff Kendall-Weed on his youtube channel. He really pushes the rear end flex manualing everywhere and riding as hard as he does. He's also Ibis sponsored and they do need to highlight the reasons to buy a V2 over the AF, so it makes sense. Personally, I've never felt the flex in the AF.

    If you're willing, I think it's worth it to spend the money lightening up the AF. Main reason is, AF frame is barely any heavier than the competition like the Offering, Rascal, Hightower, etc. Those are less than 1 lb lighter! The V2 is in another league from those. I'm on the DHF and Aggressor and it's about as light as I can go and even then, I'm pinging the rear rim sometimes. No dents yet though. I think the weight of the Diamond is higher than advertised. Been trying to track down an actual measure weight but no luck. Just need someone with a accurate scale to pull theirs or I'll do mine this winter. Comparing some complete build weights of the AF vs V1 or V2s with different forks, I think there's more like 1/2 lb+ weight savings possible going to a different fork. I'm also considering 30mm carbon wheels because I don't think I'll run anything larger than 2.5 at this point. If you go for some fancy part upgrades, I think of it as investment in parts that can be transferred as well, not just an investment in the AF. You could migrate them to a V2 or V3 (some day) frame should you choose to do so. Like the carbon wheels, fork, Eewings, etc. Also titanium bars?!! Why haven't I heard of these? I was thinking gold Protaper bars would look cool with the gold Ibis head badge but titanium, hmm....
    2020 Ripmo AF

  81. #4081
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Very cool man. Never been to Park City. I rode Jem, Dead Ringer and Cowbells after riding the Guacamole area. The Jem trails were very mellow. It was my "tired" end of day ride and even then, it was a snoozer. Zen, Barrel, Guac and Wire Mesa were all good. I didn't get to Gooseberry, Little Creek or Thunder Mountain because we were also doing family hike days in Zion and other places. Fun place for sure. We'd like to get up to Park City and Draper next season. Make it a loop. I demo'd a Pivot Shuttle too. Meh. First time on an ebike and that place doesn't have big enough climbs to take advantage of it. It'd be better in Tahoe where we have 2,000'+ climbs. The bike also wasn't near as dialed as my AF and felt rattly and not plush in any way, even after I loosened up both ends.

    Re. the V2 stiffness, I'm sure he'll let me borrow it for some laps. We have snow now so it might be a while until it's gone though. I demo'd the V1 carbon Ripmo along with a bunch of other bikes last year, both carbon and alloy. I rode all bikes on the same trail. It's a good enduro bike tester with gapped doubles, rocks, etc. The V1 only felt stiffer than some of the 4 bar bikes I tested. I attribute that to the pivots in the rear triangle on those 4 bars. The lower link Santa Cruz bikes, both the Bronson V3 and Hightower felt stiffer and more stout than the Ripmo AF but not by that much. Literally the only person I have heard say the the AF feels flexy vs the V2 is Jeff Kendall-Weed on his youtube channel. He really pushes the rear end flex manualing everywhere and riding as hard as he does. He's also Ibis sponsored and they do need to highlight the reasons to buy a V2 over the AF, so it makes sense. Personally, I've never felt the flex in the AF.

    If you're willing, I think it's worth it to spend the money lightening up the AF. Main reason is, AF frame is barely any heavier than the competition like the Offering, Rascal, Hightower, etc. Those are less than 1 lb lighter! The V2 is in another league from those. I'm on the DHF and Aggressor and it's about as light as I can go and even then, I'm pinging the rear rim sometimes. No dents yet though. I think the weight of the Diamond is higher than advertised. Been trying to track down an actual measure weight but no luck. Just need someone with a accurate scale to pull theirs or I'll do mine this winter. Comparing some complete build weights of the AF vs V1 or V2s with different forks, I think there's more like 1/2 lb+ weight savings possible going to a different fork. I'm also considering 30mm carbon wheels because I don't think I'll run anything larger than 2.5 at this point. If you go for some fancy part upgrades, I think of it as investment in parts that can be transferred as well, not just an investment in the AF. You could migrate them to a V2 or V3 (some day) frame should you choose to do so. Like the carbon wheels, fork, Eewings, etc. Also titanium bars?!! Why haven't I heard of these? I was thinking gold Protaper bars would look cool with the gold Ibis head badge but titanium, hmm....
    No Grafton Mesa DH?!

    On the weight topic, I'll just add that I recently swapped from the alloy stans wheels I've been running back to my e thirteen carbon wheels and the difference was more dramatic than I expected; it really just reminded me of the golden rule of bike weight: focus on unsprung, rotating mass above all else, meaning rims, tires, cassette.

    Currently running those e thirteen carbon hoops with EXO+ casings and Tannus tubeless inserts f/r. I built my AF burlier than most, but even my 36lbs. bike is way more snappy and fun, just by dropping ~200g from the wheels and gaining the more direct, stiff feel of carbon.

    Again, this is hardly news, and wheels are a pricey upgrade, but I would always go there first instead of focusing on frame weight or something smaller and centralized like cranks.
    Ibis Ripmo AF Jade X // Commencal Absolut

  82. #4082
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    Quote Originally Posted by jabber127 View Post
    No Grafton DH?!

    On the weight topic, I'll just add that I recently swapped from the alloy stans wheels I've been running back to my e thirteen carbon wheels and the difference was more dramatic than I expected; it really just reminded me of the golden rule of bike weight: focus on unsprung, rotating mass above all else, meaning rims, tires, cassette.

    Currently running those e thirteen carbon hoops with EXO+ casings and Tannus tubeless inserts f/r. I built my AF burlier than most, but even my 36lbs. bike is way more snappy and fun, just by dropping ~200g from the wheels and gaining the more direct, stiff feel of carbon.

    Again, this is hardly news, and wheels are a pricey upgrade, but I would always go there first instead of focusing on frame weight or something smaller and centralized like cranks.
    Thanks for reminding us! We need to focus on rolling weight. That's why I always remind people on here, 2 lbs of frame weight alone is barely perceptible. The rest of a heavy build kit and tires certainly is but likely not just the frame. I move my bottle and tube from on-bike to my hip pack and can never tell the difference and that's 2 lbs. When I demo'd a Hightower 2 with 30mm carbon wheels and dual DHR2 Exo's though, the faster acceleration and less rolling resistance was extremely noticeable. After ditching the Assegai's, I picked up some speed but still not all the way there.

    St. George was interesting on this topic because it was the first place where the low number of engagement points on the oem hubs were a noticeable detriment. I hate loud hubs though, like the I9s. Might look into the DT's with star ratchet. It's a pleasure cranking up, over and through the gooseberries, rocks and slabs. The pedaling feel of the Ibis just has a superb feel on that terrain.

    Also, sadly no Grafton or the other gnarly trails there like Flying Monkey. Certainly no King Kong. Just saw the Nate Hills drone video on that. That's nuts! It was great there though. Temps in the mid 40's to 60 with no wind and sun. Cranking out the miles feels great when it's cool like that. We also hit Zion, Red Cliffs, Snow Canyon, some volcano cinder cone and more. Squeezed in as much I could in 7 full days. Looking forward to going back. What's your favorite trails there?

    Check out the Nate Hills vid!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9FJvqXROW4
    2020 Ripmo AF

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    While I would like a little snappier/playful ride at times, I donít really care about the overall weight too much. Specifically, when it comes to sustained climbing. The reality is that I am a slow climber and unfortunately I donít think a couple pounds would change that. Iím in my mid forties and think Iím in good shape. However, my buddy and I get passed all the time on the long uphills. Itís basically a joke now between us. Iíd like to think itís because of the weight of the AF, but the reality is that Iím not that fast, I stop to take breaks/talk, and I donít really give a sh#!

    With all this being said, the AF just seems to climb so well that I really donít notice it too much. The point about lightening up the wheels is spot on though. It makes sense to do it there if anywhere. I swapped out the rear tire early on and will put a DHF in the front next spring. Carbon wheels would probably make a noticeable difference as well. I used to wear a camelback to keep the weight off the bike, but lately I prefer to just add it to the AF frame and not have to wear any crap on my back/waist.

    This has worked out well except for the time I did a 3500 ft climb this summer and only took the small water bottle on the frame and nothing else. I wanted to keep the bike and myself as ďlightĒ as possible since I knew it would be a long climb based on my standards. I ran out of water at the summit and it was so damn hot I ended up saying screw it and drank from a ground water source I spotted off the trail. I didnít get Giardia, so I considered that a win. Next time Iíll probably suck it up and lug the extra water weight with me or at least bring my sawyer squeeze filter.


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  84. #4084
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    While I would like a little snappier/playful ride at times, I donít really care about the overall weight too much. Specifically, when it comes to sustained climbing. The reality is that I am a slow climber and unfortunately I donít think a couple pounds would change that. Iím in my mid forties and think Iím in good shape. However, my buddy and I get passed all the time on the long uphills. Itís basically a joke now between us. Iíd like to think itís because of the weight of the AF, but the reality is that Iím not that fast, I stop to take breaks/talk, and I donít really give a sh#!

    With all this being said, the AF just seems to climb so well that I really donít notice it too much. The point about lightening up the wheels is spot on though. It makes sense to do it there if anywhere. I swapped out the rear tire early on and will put a DHF in the front next spring. Carbon wheels would probably make a noticeable difference as well. I used to wear a camelback to keep the weight off the bike, but lately I prefer to just add it to the AF frame and not have to wear any crap on my back/waist.

    This has worked out well except for the time I did a 3500 ft climb this summer and only took the small water bottle on the frame and nothing else. I wanted to keep the bike and myself as ďlightĒ as possible since I knew it would be a long climb based on my standards. I ran out of water at the summit and it was so damn hot I ended up saying screw it and drank from a ground water source I spotted off the trail. I didnít get Giardia, so I considered that a win. Next time Iíll probably suck it up and lug the extra water weight with me or at least bring my sawyer squeeze filter.


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    No Giardia is a win for sure! The Sawyer Squeeze is awesome huh. I usually just wear a small Dakine hip pack and have 1 bottle in it on the climb for easier access and then toss in on the frame in the cage on the downhill since it's almost empty by then. Most of our rides are all up then all down though. For long slogs I'll do 2 bottles or switch to a backpack since those are sometimes remote and other things like a puffy, first aid, headlamp etc are needed due to being far from the truck, especially when nighttime temps can be below freezing.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  85. #4085
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    Progressive coil

    Quick update on the progressive 425-500 spring vs stock 450 that came on the Jade X.

    Paying more attention to sag (16mm) and preload (keeping all things the same) the progressive spring feels significantly better. It's poppier and has a lively feel while keeping better traction. I was skeptical the prorate would be better on the ripmo's progressive curve but I was dead wrong. After trying the prorate coil back to back with the standard (same trail, same sag/preload) it's a noticeable improvement. Poppier, and better traction. I'm not sure if there are any drawbacks.

    Measuring sag between these two springs was identical: 20mm sag without preload at 175lbs and 16mm with up to 4 turns (each turn reducing 1mm). To get the bike pedaling well I really felt like 16mm of sag is ideal. Anything less and I can feel it. Unfortunately each turn makes the spring more firm/supportive and less supple. At 4 turns of pre-load I wonder if the next spring up performs better given that everyone says pre-load is terrible.

    So I called DVO and their man Geoff (awesome dude) said this made sense - he's 185lbs riding a Ripmo V2 with the 475-550 spring and no preload. His rides well but also sounds slightly firm. He's going to test the 425-500 spring with some preload this week and follow up with a recommendation to move up to the 475 prorate, or keep the current spring w/ preload.

    Unfortunately at 175lbs I'm thinking the nonexistent 450-525 spring would be a thing of pure beauty.

    TLDR the prorate feels very good. But if you're in a weight range that's between springs it can get tricky.

  86. #4086
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    Ripmo AF Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jabber127 View Post
    No Grafton Mesa DH?!

    On the weight topic, I'll just add that I recently swapped from the alloy stans wheels I've been running back to my e thirteen carbon wheels and the difference was more dramatic than I expected; it really just reminded me of the golden rule of bike weight: focus on unsprung, rotating mass above all else, meaning rims, tires, cassette.

    Currently running those e thirteen carbon hoops with EXO+ casings and Tannus tubeless inserts f/r. I built my AF burlier than most, but even my 36lbs. bike is way more snappy and fun, just by dropping ~200g from the wheels and gaining the more direct, stiff feel of carbon.

    Again, this is hardly news, and wheels are a pricey upgrade, but I would always go there first instead of focusing on frame weight or something smaller and centralized like cranks.
    For me, my wheels are already the Ibis carbon version with I9 hubs. Hence, only unsprung weight to lose now is my front Assegai which is way too long lasting, flipping die already! The dream to upgrade cranks to eewings keeps me reaching. I might not go there or I just might impulse buy this Xmas. Lifeís too short. Haha. And cassette upgrade will only happen when my slx cassette gets worn out. Maybe in another year at this rate?

    Really happy where Iím at with my AF now with the swap over to Topaz. Brought a playful side of the AF out whereas before it was a fast speed plow and supple machine that soaks everything up (also dang fun that way).

    Still contemplating selling the Jade X and know I will miss the suppleness and small bump comfort.


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  87. #4087
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Very cool man. Never been to Park City. I rode Jem, Dead Ringer and Cowbells after riding the Guacamole area. The Jem trails were very mellow. It was my "tired" end of day ride and even then, it was a snoozer. Zen, Barrel, Guac and Wire Mesa were all good. I didn't get to Gooseberry, Little Creek or Thunder Mountain because we were also doing family hike days in Zion and other places. Fun place for sure. We'd like to get up to Park City and Draper next season. Make it a loop. I demo'd a Pivot Shuttle too. Meh. First time on an ebike and that place doesn't have big enough climbs to take advantage of it. It'd be better in Tahoe where we have 2,000'+ climbs. The bike also wasn't near as dialed as my AF and felt rattly and not plush in any way, even after I loosened up both ends.

    Re. the V2 stiffness, I'm sure he'll let me borrow it for some laps. We have snow now so it might be a while until it's gone though. I demo'd the V1 carbon Ripmo along with a bunch of other bikes last year, both carbon and alloy. I rode all bikes on the same trail. It's a good enduro bike tester with gapped doubles, rocks, etc. The V1 only felt stiffer than some of the 4 bar bikes I tested. I attribute that to the pivots in the rear triangle on those 4 bars. The lower link Santa Cruz bikes, both the Bronson V3 and Hightower felt stiffer and more stout than the Ripmo AF but not by that much. Literally the only person I have heard say the the AF feels flexy vs the V2 is Jeff Kendall-Weed on his youtube channel. He really pushes the rear end flex manualing everywhere and riding as hard as he does. He's also Ibis sponsored and they do need to highlight the reasons to buy a V2 over the AF, so it makes sense. Personally, I've never felt the flex in the AF.

    If you're willing, I think it's worth it to spend the money lightening up the AF. Main reason is, AF frame is barely any heavier than the competition like the Offering, Rascal, Hightower, etc. Those are less than 1 lb lighter! The V2 is in another league from those. I'm on the DHF and Aggressor and it's about as light as I can go and even then, I'm pinging the rear rim sometimes. No dents yet though. I think the weight of the Diamond is higher than advertised. Been trying to track down an actual measure weight but no luck. Just need someone with a accurate scale to pull theirs or I'll do mine this winter. Comparing some complete build weights of the AF vs V1 or V2s with different forks, I think there's more like 1/2 lb+ weight savings possible going to a different fork. I'm also considering 30mm carbon wheels because I don't think I'll run anything larger than 2.5 at this point. If you go for some fancy part upgrades, I think of it as investment in parts that can be transferred as well, not just an investment in the AF. You could migrate them to a V2 or V3 (some day) frame should you choose to do so. Like the carbon wheels, fork, Eewings, etc. Also titanium bars?!! Why haven't I heard of these? I was thinking gold Protaper bars would look cool with the gold Ibis head badge but titanium, hmm....
    Yea JEM and surrounding trails was like a last minute, on-way-home-but-wanting-to-squeeze-1moreride near the hotel kinda ride. At the end of our Park City trip, wife wanted a tamer trail and quite frankly, me
    as well after days of long ass climbs. Great views but the AF fell asleep. Hindsight, should have driven an extra 10 mins East to ride Wire Mesa or Gooseberry which I think are more worth the hassle.

    I agree with your upgrade insights. The forks could have opportunity to be upgraded down the future but for now it does the job. And expensive components like eewings(definitely a heart decision more than it is a logical one) can be carried from bike to bike. And YES..,, definitely check out the Ti bars from Why Cycles. They make some pretty cool bikes too.

    https://www.whycycles.com/product/wh...ike-handlebar/


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  88. #4088
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post

    Still contemplating selling the Jade X and know I will miss the suppleness and small bump comfort.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If you do, let me know. I haven't had a chance to really test the two back to back and would like to. I personally love the Topaz on this bike, but would like to do some testing with the Jade X on our chunkier, faster trails.
    "Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast."

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  89. #4089
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Hence, only unsprung weight to lose now is my front Assegai which is way too long lasting, flipping die already!
    Ha ha! I absolutely agree. It took me 7 months to wear the back Assguy down enough to feel good about swapping tires. By that point I couldn't freakin wait to throw my usual tires on. The front is still in pretty good condition (at least for a rear tire), so now I need to figure out what the heck to do with it. RAF is my only 29er bike.

  90. #4090
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    OZ

    Nice to hear about your settings now that you have good experience running the topaz setup w 1 volume spacer in pos, NONE on neg.

    30% sag for the win!! Although most any spot from the bottom of the V to the end of the silver logo seems to work. Im running 17.5mm sag so I guess almost 32% for me!

  91. #4091
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2supple View Post
    Quick update on the progressive 425-500 spring vs stock 450 that came on the Jade X.

    Paying more attention to sag (16mm) and preload (keeping all things the same) the progressive spring feels significantly better. It's poppier and has a lively feel while keeping better traction. I was skeptical the prorate would be better on the ripmo's progressive curve but I was dead wrong. After trying the prorate coil back to back with the standard (same trail, same sag/preload) it's a noticeable improvement. Poppier, and better traction. I'm not sure if there are any drawbacks.

    Measuring sag between these two springs was identical: 20mm sag without preload at 175lbs and 16mm with up to 4 turns (each turn reducing 1mm). To get the bike pedaling well I really felt like 16mm of sag is ideal. Anything less and I can feel it. Unfortunately each turn makes the spring more firm/supportive and less supple. At 4 turns of pre-load I wonder if the next spring up performs better given that everyone says pre-load is terrible.

    So I called DVO and their man Geoff (awesome dude) said this made sense - he's 185lbs riding a Ripmo V2 with the 475-550 spring and no preload. His rides well but also sounds slightly firm. He's going to test the 425-500 spring with some preload this week and follow up with a recommendation to move up to the 475 prorate, or keep the current spring w/ preload.

    Unfortunately at 175lbs I'm thinking the nonexistent 450-525 spring would be a thing of pure beauty.

    TLDR the prorate feels very good. But if you're in a weight range that's between springs it can get tricky.
    We weight about the same and I agree with you on the better feel of the 425. I love it. I only have half a turn to one turn max of preload. Do I feel it? Yes. But it does still climb way better than me previous bike. I think the 475 would be too firm.


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  92. #4092
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    OZ

    Nice to hear about your settings now that you have good experience running the topaz setup w 1 volume spacer in pos, NONE on neg.

    30% sag for the win!! Although most any spot from the bottom of the V to the end of the silver logo seems to work. Im running 17.5mm sag so I guess almost 32% for me!
    I was running about what you are now at one stage, inadvertently, after I removed the - volume spacer and it worked ok but I found I was still wishing the Topaz had a HSC adjuster in certain situations. Since going up to 160 psi in the body which gave me 30% sag the shock is doing what I was wishing it would on faster flat landings. Also I got virtually no, if any, reduction in plushness off the top. The shock is just quicker to respond and feels livelier. It felt a tad lazy at around 32% to me. I also found I was chasing a bit more from it after I put the new fork in more so than before because the performance of the front end was so much better.
    It will be back to the set up drawing board this weekend though when I put the new shock in. Hopefully I can get it dialled as quick as I did with the new fork.

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    PSA to anyone still struggling with their fork feeling harsh or lacking small bump, I backed my front axle out maybe 1/2 a turn and it felt night and day. This along with dropping the lowers has made the fork feel more like the $1000 price tag.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainless-biking View Post
    PSA to anyone still struggling with their fork feeling harsh or lacking small bump, I backed my front axle out maybe 1/2 a turn and it felt night and day. This along with dropping the lowers has made the fork feel more like the $1000 price tag.
    Wow. If overtightening axel can affect fork performance, how much are the Diamond lowers flexing? Kinda make sense but never knew! Will check out mine. Thanks for the tip.


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  95. #4095
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainless-biking View Post
    PSA to anyone still struggling with their fork feeling harsh or lacking small bump, I backed my front axle out maybe 1/2 a turn and it felt night and day. This along with dropping the lowers has made the fork feel more like the $1000 price tag.
    This is interesting... How did you come to the conclusion to try loosening the axle? Makes sense.

    On a separate note, saw your screen name and checked your profile to see where you're from and it says Kansas. Top 10 name for sure!

  96. #4096
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Wow. If overtightening axel can affect fork performance, how much are the Diamond lowers flexing? Kinda make sense but never knew! Will check out mine. Thanks for the tip.
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Good tip. I'll check it. Never thought this would matter on a fork with an arch but I ride motos and on those we have to preload the axle, grab the front brake, compress the fork multiple times to get the legs aligned, then torque the axle caps. This prevents binding in them.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  97. #4097
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainless-biking View Post
    PSA to anyone still struggling with their fork feeling harsh or lacking small bump, I backed my front axle out maybe 1/2 a turn and it felt night and day. This along with dropping the lowers has made the fork feel more like the $1000 price tag.
    I always torque mine to 7nm like the axle says. Not sure it would be a good idea to run less torque than that

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I always torque mine to 7nm like the axle says. Not sure it would be a good idea to run less torque than that
    100% agree.

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    What is it?

    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Iíve got a digital shock pump that reads down to 1 psi above 100 and to 0.5 psi below 100 because it I can only show 3 figures on the screen but that accuracy below 100 is very valuable to me now since using the Mezzer because I found out how much difference only 2 psi can make to the feel of the suspension. 2 psi made the difference to my Topaz as well. It was the difference between bottoming or not. Might be a worthwhile investment.
    Iím a bit surprised you didnít feel like the shock was much more settled and controlled going back to 1 spacer in the +. I thought it was a pretty decent improvement. It was too much of a pogo stick on technical step ups and the like. It would over extend the shock then settle after the impact. I felt it also made the suspension a bit over active on the up stroke for my weight in virtually every situation.
    On another note Iíve made another pretty exciting upgrade which I will reveal hopefully later in the week.
    Can you let me know what brand shock pump you have, please?

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    I haven't noticed any probs with torque and I have to take both wheels out to get my AF in the car and never use a torque wrench.
    But I got caught in the rain the other day riding about 12 kms home from Majura trails and waited a couple of days to clean it and found quite a bit of water inside the front axle. The rear was OK and still had the grease I put in during the build. I think the little plastic washer on the rear axle might help.

  101. #4101
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    Quote Originally Posted by d3toid View Post
    I haven't noticed any probs with torque and I have to take both wheels out to get my AF in the car and never use a torque wrench.
    But I got caught in the rain the other day riding about 12 kms home from Majura trails and waited a couple of days to clean it and found quite a bit of water inside the front axle. The rear was OK and still had the grease I put in during the build. I think the little plastic washer on the rear axle might help.
    Inside the actual axle or inside the hub? Water in the hub is mildly concerning but water in the axle is fine and wonít affect anything

  102. #4102
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    This is interesting... How did you come to the conclusion to try loosening the axle? Makes sense.

    On a separate note, saw your screen name and checked your profile to see where you're from and it says Kansas. Top 10 name for sure!
    I was watching some of the Dialed series from Fox and they mentioned the new 36/38 had a floating axle so that you can tighten the axle without putting friction on the fork bushings. I may have had my front axle overly tight since I was having problems with the rear backing out.

    Lmao I was trying to come up with a clever name for my YouTube channel and since everyone names it after where they ride I thought I'd continue the trend...

  103. #4103
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I always torque mine to 7nm like the axle says. Not sure it would be a good idea to run less torque than that
    Probably a good idea to not loosen it much. I've been eyeballing it with my multitool and was probably overestimating since the rear one kept backing out.

  104. #4104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ongomera View Post
    Can you let me know what brand shock pump you have, please?
    It is a Giant branded pump. Iíve seen others that look the same or similar with other brands on them. It is battery operated digital pump with a dual screw on valve head. I think itís really important to have that head on it so you can undo it with losing pressure if you are a bit slow getting it off.

  105. #4105
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainless-biking View Post
    Probably a good idea to not loosen it much. I've been eyeballing it with my multitool and was probably overestimating since the rear one kept backing out.
    Just torque the axle once properly or get your LBS to do it if you donít have a torque wrench then put a very small mark on the axle and lower leg with a centre punch or scribe that you can visually line up when installing the wheels if you need to take them off for transporting. I do this on my Motoís on the triple clamp bolts so if I have an off and the front end gets tweaked I can loosen the bolts on the trail straighten the front end and tighten them back to a torque setting that is no more than a bees dick away from being correct

  106. #4106
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Inside the actual axle or inside the hub? Water in the hub is mildly concerning but water in the axle is fine and wonít affect anything
    It was just droplets all along the axle and in the fork dropouts. Not a problem but I have had some creaky noises from the fork and I just hope it isn't the csu.

  107. #4107
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    Quote Originally Posted by d3toid View Post
    It was just droplets all along the axle and in the fork dropouts. Not a problem but I have had some creaky noises from the fork and I just hope it isn't the csu.
    Since Feb this year, I don't think I've heard one report of a DVO fork creaking at the CSU on either forums (mtbr and Pinkbike).

  108. #4108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Since Feb this year, I don't think I've heard one report of a DVO fork creaking at the CSU on either forums (mtbr and Pinkbike).
    I second this. I had a horrible creaking/cracking noise in my bike that sounded like it was coming from the front. I thought it was the fork at one stage but it turns out it was coming from the two upper links where the clevis joins the upper triangle. Also clean and lube the seat rails and remove clean and lube the outer of the dropper post. Iíve had noises come from all these areas. As it turns out alloy tubing transfers noises to areas where they arenít necessarily coming from and makes them hard to diagnose.

  109. #4109
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    I second this. I had a horrible creaking/cracking noise in my bike that sounded like it was coming from the front. I thought it was the fork at one stage but it turns out it was coming from the two upper links where the clevis joins the upper triangle. Also clean and lube the seat rails and remove clean and lube the outer of the dropper post. Iíve had noises come from all these areas. As it turns out alloy tubing transfers noises to areas where they arenít necessarily coming from and makes them hard to diagnose.
    Did your bike creak all the time or just under pressure when pedaling?

    I remember creaking was discussed a lot a couple months ago, but all of sudden now Iím getting it but only when really pedaling hard.

    All bolts were torqued to correct spec when I checked them. Thinking to pull bottom bracket, but appreciate any other suggestions if anyoneís had the same thing happen. Seems like a PIA to troubleshoot. Thought I dodged that bullet...


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  110. #4110
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Did your bike creak all the time or just under pressure when pedaling?

    I remember creaking was discussed a lot a couple months ago, but all of sudden now Iím getting it but only when really pedaling hard.

    All bolts were torqued to correct spec when I checked them. Thinking to pull bottom bracket, but appreciate any other suggestions if anyoneís had the same thing happen. Seems like a PIA to troubleshoot. Thought I dodged that bullet...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Mine was under load when pedaling hard. If i was just rolling the pedals over it didn't usually happen. I went through everything on the bike trying to find it. Most places 3 times at least. It was a MAJOR PAIN IN THE ARSE to find. Like i said the alloy frame transfers the sound to places that aren't creating the noise which sends you on a wild goose chase. Just pull the whole rear end apart and be very thorough cleaning everything even behind o-rings and regrease using a thick water resistant grease. I was using Slickoleum at first and it didn't fix the issue. As soon as i used the thick grease noise went away and hasn't come back for months.
    Grab the front and back of your seat too and try to twist and bend it and see if it's making a noise. Mine was. The noise i was getting was 3 noises from 3 places all rolled into one. Extremely hard and frustrating to pin point and fix. Also clean and lube the outside of the dropper. Mine had a minor noise and my wife bike started making a clicking noise as well that sounded like it was coming from the front of the bike and it was the dropper as well. Good luck it will test your patience.

  111. #4111
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    The EXT Storia V3 installed on the RAF

    This thing looks mint. Insane quality. Hopefully performance matches the looks and it and the Mezzer are a match made in heaven.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-img_0001.jpg  


  112. #4112
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    After lubing the axle while doing after wet riding maintenance, check bearings links etc. I did a quick ride and found no probs. Thanks for letting me know that it can't be the CSU

  113. #4113
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    COVID Year or Ripmo AF Year? The glass more than half full trip report version.

    There's no doubt it has been one weird and nasty year. Thank goodness for MTB, something we have been lucky not to to lose here in SE Queensland, although inmates of other states saw a lot of parks close for months.

    When I cracked the frame of my bike early this year I thought I was done. Bikes and parts were selling out everywhere and I had not been thinking about a new bike. After owning 2 Ibis bikes, I like the DW suspension and I have peripherally followed the evolution of the species. Along came the RAF, ordered interstate and shipped, a bike that has increased my enjoyment of and confidence in riding leaps and bounds. In the last month I have been able to ride a number of new places. The lift it gives the enjoyment of riding, plus doing it on this bike has been a big buzz.

    First, a long weekend on the Sunshine Coast included Tewantin and Parklands MTB trails. I wish I had pics of Tewantin. It is a very high fun factor trail system, but it rained (Qld rain is warm) and drifting on greasy berms and jumps became the focus, not the camera lens. This photo is all I have from Tewantin. It shows someone else's brain after riding trails like Milkmaid.

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201024_140917.jpg

    Parklands was very different with physical, old school, tight and tech trails that take you from wet, sub-tropical forest to higher coastal woodland up tough climbs. If you can kill Parklands, you can race XC for sure.

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201026_145834.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201026_145935.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201026_150033.jpg

    MTB may be the thing, but how about the place?

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201025_053925.jpg

    Then the border opened and I was able to join mates 1200km away in Narooma for an annual golf and trip. Bike and clubs, 12 days, 9 rounds of golf and 6 rides. It's a good thing I don't ride like I play golf, or I'd be in ED and ICU most of the time!

    I digress. After driving 5+ hours I arrived Port Macquarie, checked into my accommodation and went straight to Jolly Nose (no shit) MTB park just south near Lake Cathie. One of the locals showed me around a really nice trail system with fun XC trails, open and flowing downhills, limited threats and quite a lot of options. Excellent, but again I didn't have the camera out on the trails.

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201108_190143.jpg

    But the trails were a bit like this pic of the town.....chilled and yet quite enticing

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201108_190647.jpg

    Next stop was the NSW Southern Highlands. Stayed at Bowral and had a ride at Mittagong. It's a small trail system with some character. Nearby is good wine country and I enjoyed a nice tasting session, plus the stache for the rest of the trip.

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201110_113250.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201110_113302.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201110_113343.jpg

    Then it was Bomo State Forest, North Nowra. It's not a very hilly area. Quite a bit of the trail system was simple XC singletrack and spider webs (I was the only bike there), but there were lots of very cool rock platforms and options near the perimeter creek. Sometimes finding where the trail went was a bit of a challenge because there was limited footprint on the rocks, but oddly, it all made sense after the first 20 minutes. Go where you want and most likely you find the common line, or just point down for alternate lines.

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201112_125829.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201112_125812.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201112_130037.jpg

    It's a pretty place

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201112_125905.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201112_130207.jpg

    After the golf weekend at Narooma, such beautiful place

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201115_055237.jpg

    I started home via Canberra and the Mt Stromlo trail system, home of the MB world champs some time ago. I had 2 riding mates for the morning. They had driven from Woolongong, south of Sydney for a day trip. It's a fantastic trail system, with a full facility trailhead and lots of trails for all riding styles. Apparently I failed to take any pics, but, other than being a bit blown out by sheer numbers, the trails were a hoot. Strong winds and slippery, dry trail lowered the limit of our stupidity, but it was a good day out on what may be Australia's best known MTB trail system.

    The boys at Stromlo encouraged me to go to Ourimbah on my way home, but I had made my mind to to ride Kiwarrak MTB trails at Taree instead. So glad I didn't change my mind. I ended up staying an extra night to go ride again the next day. After being burned out in last year's fires, the reincarnation has been spectacular. XC for all standards everywhere across the system, flowy lines, jumps out the wazoo, constructions galore and an amazing eye for terrain made this the perfect last stop.

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201119_140114.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201119_140019.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201119_135831.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201119_135920.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20201118_120925.jpg

    And tomorrow it's Nerang, my home trail system with Oz Ibis for company. Let's see how his new shock and fork up the ante on his smileometer. i know mine is going to be high.

    Happy trails

  114. #4114
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    This thing looks mint. Insane quality. Hopefully performance matches the looks and it and the Mezzer are a match made in heaven.
    Iíve heard of EXT suspension back in the day when I was watching rally races and WRC.

    No idea they made products for mountain bikes. That thing look like itís gonna demolish the trails!


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  115. #4115
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Mine was under load when pedaling hard. If i was just rolling the pedals over it didn't usually happen. I went through everything on the bike trying to find it. Most places 3 times at least. It was a MAJOR PAIN IN THE ARSE to find. Like i said the alloy frame transfers the sound to places that aren't creating the noise which sends you on a wild goose chase. Just pull the whole rear end apart and be very thorough cleaning everything even behind o-rings and regrease using a thick water resistant grease. I was using Slickoleum at first and it didn't fix the issue. As soon as i used the thick grease noise went away and hasn't come back for months.
    Grab the front and back of your seat too and try to twist and bend it and see if it's making a noise. Mine was. The noise i was getting was 3 noises from 3 places all rolled into one. Extremely hard and frustrating to pin point and fix. Also clean and lube the outside of the dropper. Mine had a minor noise and my wife bike started making a clicking noise as well that sounded like it was coming from the front of the bike and it was the dropper as well. Good luck it will test your patience.
    Thanks for the feedback! Sounds like at a 3 beer project.


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  116. #4116
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    @ridnparadise: Great trip report! The other forum I follow is Expedition Portal. Hot damn. Between MTB and overland expedition campers/vehicles, you Aussies sure have your priorities right in life. Exploring over there for a month+ is definitely on the bucket list.


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  117. #4117
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Iíve heard of EXT suspension back in the day when I was watching rally races and WRC.

    No idea they made products for mountain bikes. That thing look like itís gonna demolish the trails!


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    Yeah they make a fork as well called the Era. They feed at the very top of the food chain. Apparently performance wise, which I will experience for the first time in an hour, and definitely price wise. From all reports the Ext and Push shocks are pretty on par performance wise and price wise with the Ext being lighter. Itís got a pretty hard act to follow with what is going on up front on my bike but Iím pretty sure itís going to have what it takes. Time to play set up games again.

    On that note people talk about the Mezzer being hard and complicated to set up. Itís rubbish. Providing you keep notes on what you started with and what adjustments youíve made itís dead simple and I had mine set up half way through the second ride. Iíve tried other settings just for experimentation reasons since and gone back to my second day settings. Itís so quick and easy to make adjustments on if you have a shock pump with you because there is no changing tokens. You can try 10 different set ups on the trail in one day if you wanted to and in less then a minute be back at what works. Itís wicked.

  118. #4118
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Yeah they make a fork as well called the Era. They feed at the very top of the food chain. Apparently performance wise, which I will experience for the first time in an hour, and definitely price wise. From all reports the Ext and Push shocks are pretty on par performance wise and price wise with the Ext being lighter. Itís got a pretty hard act to follow with what is going on up front on my bike but Iím pretty sure itís going to have what it takes. Time to play set up games again.

    On that note people talk about the Mezzer being hard and complicated to set up. Itís rubbish. Providing you keep notes on what you started with and what adjustments youíve made itís dead simple and I had mine set up half way through the second ride. Iíve tried other settings just for experimentation reasons since and gone back to my second day settings. Itís so quick and easy to make adjustments on if you have a shock pump with you because there is no changing tokens. You can try 10 different set ups on the trail in one day if you wanted to and in less then a minute be back at what works. Itís wicked.
    Good points taken on the EXT and Push comparison. And hey, not everyone can be mechanical gurus. Your tuning tips definitely helped me setup my Topaz quickly close to where it should be.

    Took the bike up to another fav spot of mine in Phoenix this morning where there are slightly longer and faster stretches of descent. I donít know whether is it my forks or the Topaz but I definitely felt I had to slow down a fair bit coming down and noticed more arm fatigued as I was holding on tighter as the bikeís small bump just isnít what Iím used to with the Jade- thereís more oscillations transmitted into the frame if that makes sense. Rebound is 2 clicks from almost wide open. Slow it down more and it packs down. Frustrating. Love the pop and lighter weight though!

    Might try a few things like investing in a digital shock pump since even 2 psi can be palpable in ride feel. On the Jade side, maybe swap out the 400 for a 425 spring to see if it improves the poppiness . Either way the arm pump and fatigue problem has got to go away. Other than that Iím done spending $$ on the bike this year ( haha yea I say that).


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  119. #4119
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    Tanman - you still on the DVO? IMO - that's the culprit...

  120. #4120
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    I donít know whether is it my forks or the Topaz but I definitely felt I had to slow down a fair bit coming down and noticed more arm fatigued as I was holding on tighter as the bikeís small bump just isnít what Iím used to with the Jade- thereís more oscillations transmitted into the frame if that makes sense.
    Fork

    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Rebound is 2 clicks from almost wide open. Slow it down more and it packs down. Frustrating. Love the pop and lighter weight though!
    How much do you weigh? 2 clicks from wide open is really fast (unless you're <150 lbs)

    Took me a while to understand that rebound is basically independent of terrain, speed, etc. Once I fully understood that rebound is a function of air spring PSI (which directly correlates with rider weight), my suspension tuning got much better.

    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Tanman - you still on the DVO? IMO - that's the culprit...
    Explain, please.

    For me, the Topaz has been aces.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  121. #4121
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    @ridnparadise: Great trip report! The other forum I follow is Expedition Portal. Hot damn. Between MTB and overland expedition campers/vehicles, you Aussies sure have your priorities right in life. Exploring over there for a month+ is definitely on the bucket list.


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    Well worth it mate and thanks for the nod on the report.

  122. #4122
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Good points taken on the EXT and Push comparison. And hey, not everyone can be mechanical gurus. Your tuning tips definitely helped me setup my Topaz quickly close to where it should be.

    Took the bike up to another fav spot of mine in Phoenix this morning where there are slightly longer and faster stretches of descent. I donít know whether is it my forks or the Topaz but I definitely felt I had to slow down a fair bit coming down and noticed more arm fatigued as I was holding on tighter as the bikeís small bump just isnít what Iím used to with the Jade- thereís more oscillations transmitted into the frame if that makes sense. Rebound is 2 clicks from almost wide open. Slow it down more and it packs down. Frustrating. Love the pop and lighter weight though!

    Might try a few things like investing in a digital shock pump since even 2 psi can be palpable in ride feel. On the Jade side, maybe swap out the 400 for a 425 spring to see if it improves the poppiness . Either way the arm pump and fatigue problem has got to go away. Other than that Iím done spending $$ on the bike this year ( haha yea I say that).


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I think your rebound is too fast firstly. I canít help but think the oscillation could be bucking. If the rear is misbehaving and kicking back too fast then it increased the back and forward motion of the bars as well. I found the Topaz a fairly composed little performer with enough pressure in the main body for support and enough rebound to control that extra pressure required after removing the - volume spacer.

  123. #4123
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Fork



    How much do you weigh? 2 clicks from wide open is really fast (unless you're <150 lbs)

    Took me a while to understand that rebound is basically independent of terrain, speed, etc. Once I fully understood that rebound is a function of air spring PSI (which directly correlates with rider weight), my suspension tuning got much better.



    Explain, please.

    For me, the Topaz has been aces.
    I would guess that kamper11 is talking about the Diamond more so than the Topaz seeing as though he switched to a Lyrik Ultimate due to the small bump compliance of the Diamond. He will correct me if Iím wrong though.

  124. #4124
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Good points taken on the EXT and Push comparison. And hey, not everyone can be mechanical gurus. Your tuning tips definitely helped me setup my Topaz quickly close to where it should be.

    Took the bike up to another fav spot of mine in Phoenix this morning where there are slightly longer and faster stretches of descent. I donít know whether is it my forks or the Topaz but I definitely felt I had to slow down a fair bit coming down and noticed more arm fatigued as I was holding on tighter as the bikeís small bump just isnít what Iím used to with the Jade- thereís more oscillations transmitted into the frame if that makes sense. Rebound is 2 clicks from almost wide open. Slow it down more and it packs down. Frustrating. Love the pop and lighter weight though!

    Might try a few things like investing in a digital shock pump since even 2 psi can be palpable in ride feel. On the Jade side, maybe swap out the 400 for a 425 spring to see if it improves the poppiness . Either way the arm pump and fatigue problem has got to go away. Other than that Iím done spending $$ on the bike this year ( haha yea I say that).


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Tanman as far as spring rates on the coil. The Ext comes with 2 springs as standard that are calculated taking rider weight and bike kinematics into account. One that gives you 30% sag and another softer one for slippery conditions that gives you around 32.5%-33% sag. The thing is going off the calculations the spring recommendations where 400lb and 425lb. I took my bike up to the distributor with all my riding gear so I got the correct springs by measuring the sag not a theoretical calculation. Turns out I had to go up to 450lb to get 30% with 1mm of preload or one full turn and a 425lb as the softer spring not the main 30% sag spring. Another guy thatís a bit heavier than me put the EXT into a V2 and had to do the same thing. He also had to go one spring rate up to get the sag correct. The EXT springs come in 25lb increments. The distributor said wow thatís the second time thatís happened with the latest Ibis Ripmoís. So basically 2 for 2 because we are the only 2 that have installed the EXT shock that I know of on the V5 DW Link over here or maybe the only 2 that are OCD enough to set things up to the 0.1 of a mm. So irrespective of shock brand spring rate should be spring rate as far as sag goes and seeing as though you are a very similar weight to me maybe those spring rates are something to consider.

  125. #4125
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    @ridnparadise: Great trip report! The other forum I follow is Expedition Portal. Hot damn. Between MTB and overland expedition campers/vehicles, you Aussies sure have your priorities right in life. Exploring over there for a month+ is definitely on the bucket list.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You should come over and check out Oz. It is an incredibly beautiful and awesome place. It is BIG though. In a month you could scratch the surface. Most of the people are ok but there is also some serious wankers. Same as anywhere I suppose. You would need to do a lot of research and ask a lot of questions so you donít waste time on some places that might not be worth going to as much. Depends what you like and want to see. The outback is a MUST.

  126. #4126
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    Hokie and OZIbis for the win! Meant Diamond for sure in this case. I switched because I never could dial out the harshness on choppy trails - Lyrik has been freekin awesome, but the Mezzer boys reports have me intrigued! and its on sale!

  127. #4127
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Hokie and OZIbis for the win! Meant Diamond for sure in this case. I switched because I never could dial out the harshness on choppy trails - Lyrik has been freekin awesome, but the Mezzer boys reports have me intrigued! and its on sale!
    I donít really want to know how much you can get one for because by the time I paid freight and import duties and foreign currency exchange etc my Mezzer cost me a substantial amount but damn itís good. I mean seriously good. It most definitely has a better damper than the Lyrik. My first thought on the very first impact was OMG that damper. Also contrary to what some reports say it is super easy to set up. You just need to get your head around how it works which is not hard. The triple air spring set up is brilliant. If you can get good money for your Lyrik and buy a Mezzer on sale. DO IT. You get 44mm offset as well which is what I think this bike needs. Geo is so good with that offset.

  128. #4128
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Fork



    How much do you weigh? 2 clicks from wide open is really fast (unless you're <150 lbs)

    Took me a while to understand that rebound is basically independent of terrain, speed, etc. Once I fully understood that rebound is a function of air spring PSI (which directly correlates with rider weight), my suspension tuning got much better.



    Explain, please.

    For me, the Topaz has been aces.
    The arm pump and hand fatigue never presented itself till I switched to the Topaz. You could be right that itís the forks. That thing (Diamond) has been so inconsistent at times so who knows.

    Iím a light weight. 160lbs with gear on. Due to shitty resolution on my shock pump, I typically pump the body to just a smidgeon under the 160 psi mark. Bladder is at 175psi. 1 spacer in positive chamber.
    I was also setting the rebound from the same understanding that less psi= less rebound and the shared settings in this forum where several folks seem to report they prefer as wide open as they can handle.

    Gonna up another 1-2 clicks (so total 4) from the + sign stop and see what happens. Not giving up yet- like I mentioned, the Topaz is 90% set to my liking in terms of feel... just got to tune out the chatter a tad more.


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  129. #4129
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    The arm pump and hand fatigue never presented itself till I switched to the Topaz. You could be right that itís the forks. That thing (Diamond) has been so inconsistent at times so who knows.

    Iím a light weight. 160lbs with gear on. Due to shitty resolution on my shock pump, I typically pump the body to just a smidgeon under the 160 psi mark. Bladder is at 175psi. 1 spacer in positive chamber.
    I was also setting the rebound from the same understanding that less psi= less rebound and the shared settings in this forum where several folks seem to report they prefer as wide open as they can handle.

    Gonna up another 1-2 clicks (so total 4) from the + sign stop and see what happens. Not giving up yet- like I mentioned, the Topaz is 90% set to my liking in terms of feel... just got to tune out the chatter a tad more.


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    Another thing to consider with your arm pump and hand fatigue is your bars. What bars are you using? My RAF came with some Race Face Aeffect bars. I was suffering the same feeling in my wrists. I picked up a PNW Loam bar with a new 50mm Diety Copperhead 50mm stem and it feels much better to me. They have a pretty nice rise and sweep. The feel like they just put my hands in better overall natural position. And I don't really see the need for a punishingly stiff 35mm bar unless you need something that stout. YMMV.
    2020 Ripmo AF

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    Quote Originally Posted by RyderRider View Post
    Another thing to consider with your arm pump and hand fatigue is your bars. What bars are you using? My RAF came with some Race Face Aeffect bars. I was suffering the same feeling in my wrists. I picked up a PNW Loam bar with a new 50mm Diety Copperhead 50mm stem and it feels much better to me. They have a pretty nice rise and sweep. The feel like they just put my hands in better overall natural position. And I don't really see the need for a punishingly stiff 35mm bar unless you need something that stout. YMMV.
    Thanks man. Mine is the Nukeproof Horizon carbon bars I bought off CR when it was on sale 2 years ago. Itís already got a 25mm rise and 9 degree back sweep.

    I agree with our resident suspension guru OzIbis prior assessment here. This new issue stems from the ďbuckĒ or increased harshness from the rear that I need to tune out with tad more rebound. Problem was practically non- existent when I was on the Jade (yea maybe it is THAT good).

    Completely off topic from shocks. How long are you guys and galsí 12 speed Shimano chain lasting? My drive train is starting to make all
    kinds of noises and canít go by 1 ride without proper lube.


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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Hokie and OZIbis for the win! Meant Diamond for sure in this case. I switched because I never could dial out the harshness on choppy trails - Lyrik has been freekin awesome, but the Mezzer boys reports have me intrigued! and its on sale!
    Where are you seeing it on sale? Thanks!
    2020 Ripmo AF

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    buy it direct https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...ducts/mezzer-1

    not sure why link says summer sale - as this is fresh off the website for their cyber holoiday sale - but $799... 20% off

  133. #4133
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    buy it direct https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...ducts/mezzer-1

    not sure why link says summer sale - as this is fresh off the website for their cyber holoiday sale - but $799... 20% off
    Gotcha. Thanks. I've been considering this but tough when I haven't demo'd one yet. It'd have to be a faith buy! Side note, do we know of any bike brand who specs the Mezzer as OEM? I haven't seen any yet. Just thinking for demos. I have access to basically all bike brands to demo where I live but only during riding season (snow now).
    2020 Ripmo AF

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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Gotcha. Thanks. I've been considering this but tough when I haven't demo'd one yet. It'd have to be a faith buy! Side note, do we know of any bike brand who specs the Mezzer as OEM? I haven't seen any yet. Just thinking for demos. I have access to basically all bike brands to demo where I live but only during riding season (snow now).
    Screw the demo trust me you WILL NOT be disappointed. If you are itís purely set up. They are seriously amazing.

  135. #4135
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    buy it direct https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...ducts/mezzer-1

    not sure why link says summer sale - as this is fresh off the website for their cyber holoiday sale - but $799... 20% off
    Do a bit of research and ask some questions. I have the latest version and they look different to that. Maybe they are just using old photoís. The latest ones have bleed ports on the rear and the stickers are a bit different. The Manitou sticker down the front are one piece on the older version and individual on the new ones. On the bottom of the legs the stickers that say Mezzer Pro are black not silver also. If you can get the latest ones for that price that hurts considering what I paid.

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    For those looking into the Mezzer Pro- the Eagle has landed!

    Special edition!

    https://hayesbicycle.com/products/me...aign=mezzer_LE


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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    For those looking into the Mezzer Pro- the Eagle has landed!

    Special edition!

    https://hayesbicycle.com/products/me...aign=mezzer_LE


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    That looks a little bit trick.
    Regarding what I posted recently about the coil spring weights. I got to go for a proper loop yesterday to test the Storia after destroying a rear tyre the day before. The 450lb spring is really good. No way I would want any lighter. Poppyness wasnít much different to what I had on the Topaz. Thatís good. Incredible shock.

  138. #4138
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    That looks a little bit trick.
    Regarding what I posted recently about the coil spring weights. I got to go for a proper loop yesterday to test the Storia after destroying a rear tyre the day before. The 450lb spring is really good. No way I would want any lighter. Poppyness wasnít much different to what I had on the Topaz. Thatís good. Incredible shock.
    Nice. I wonder though if a 425 or 450 is right for me on the Jade X. Currently on a 400.

    Currently still playing around w the Topaz. Hoping to get a ride in next couple days to experiment w rebound settings. I need to make a decision soon to keep one shock vs the other. OR sell BOTH?!

    Your testimony on the EXT isnít making this easy. LOL


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  139. #4139
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Nice. I wonder though if a 425 or 450 is right for me on the Jade X. Currently on a 400.

    Currently still playing around w the Topaz. Hoping to get a ride in next couple days to experiment w rebound settings. I need to make a decision soon to keep one shock vs the other. OR sell BOTH?!

    Your testimony on the EXT isnít making this easy. LOL


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    Seeing as though you are literally the identical weight to me I canít see how you would be in the correct sag range on a 400lb spring. The theoretical correct spring for my weight on the EXT was 425lb to get 30% sag. That spring gave me between 32% and 33%. The 450lb gave me 30% with 1 turn of preload which is 1mm. The maximum recommended is 2 turns otherwise you need to go up a spring rate. So providing everything is working correctly in your suspension links and the Jade doesnít have excessive seal drag etc and we are both weighing ourselves accurately and the stated spring rates are accurate you should be on the same spring rate as me. The bike doesnít know what brand of shock is installed it only reacts to how much spring pressure is being applied against the clevis. How the damper reacts to the increased spring rate vs rider weight is another thing but for outright sag measurements you would in theory be close to 35% on a 400lb I would guess. That would make the bike very soft and pretty dead feeling in the rear I would think.
    With the 450lb my shock is super plush but will still pop off even the smallest of bumps and features on the track if I want it to or just follow the terrain if I want it to. It depends on how I use my weight and load the pedals. Now the quality of the damping and the internal hydraulic bottom out circuit the EXT has is something I canít help you with. Without ever experiencing what a Jadeís damper performs like I would make a fair assumption the EXT should easily outperform it otherwise Iíve wasted A LOT of money.
    On the Topaz my rebound is set as 4 clicks from open from the first click. What I mean by that is with mine at least is when you turn the adjuster towards full open there is a click then it goes a bit further then hits the point where it stops past that but without another click. I set it back to the last click before the stop then count 4 clicks towards closed. I do this because between the last click and the point where it stops isnít a full click to me and a bit vague so I always start from a full click. Itís not miles away from where you had yours set but each click on the Topaz is a noticeable difference.
    One thing you maybe need to bear in mind also, and a couple of people in the know have said this to me, is that I come from a Moto background with 38 years of it under my belt including doing my own fork and shock pull down and servicing and apparently we like our suspension set up differently to people that have been in MTB all along and not gone down the Moto path. I spoke to one guy who has the EXT on a V2 and he said itís amazing and the traction you get is insane but itís not as plush as you would expect. On the other hand I find the plushness Iím getting to be amazing. I suppose it comes down to the feel you like. I chase traction, plushness with minimal feedback through the bars and bike and a supportive confidence inspiring feel while keeping the suspension feeling alive a fun not a sponge that just ploughs.
    Last edited by OzIbis; 1 Week Ago at 09:30 AM.

  140. #4140
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Nice. I wonder though if a 425 or 450 is right for me on the Jade X. Currently on a 400.

    Currently still playing around w the Topaz. Hoping to get a ride in next couple days to experiment w rebound settings. I need to make a decision soon to keep one shock vs the other. OR sell BOTH?!

    Your testimony on the EXT isnít making this easy. LOL


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    I had a thought regarding your Topaz too. What bike was it off when you bought it? If it wasnít another 2020 Ripmo there is a possibility it has a different internal tune. Iím not sure if Ibis got them supplied with their light Traction Tune or they are standard tuning. You may need to do some digging otherwise the rebound setting Iím giving you might not work for you. Providing the air canister is the same the pressures and volume spacers will be the same but maybe the damping isnít.

  141. #4141
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    I had a thought regarding your Topaz too. What bike was it off when you bought it? If it wasnít another 2020 Ripmo there is a possibility it has a different internal tune. Iím not sure if Ibis got them supplied with their light Traction Tune or they are standard tuning. You may need to do some digging otherwise the rebound setting Iím giving you might not work for you. Providing the air canister is the same the pressures and volume spacers will be the same but maybe the damping isnít.
    Thanks buddy. I believe it did not come off another RAF. Itís from a Specialized Stumpy I think. I hear those things bob a lot. The seller looks to be a lanky dude and he had to use all the spacers.

    BTW, came across an in-depth article on tuning the Mezzer Pro. Iíll DM you the link. Very interesting.


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    Mezzer Pro tuning?

    Iíd love the guide you saw for tuning a Mezzer pro if thatís cool!

    I just ordered one for my RAF, but Iíll need to drop the travel to 160 or maybe try 170. Iím coming from a diamond and am very much looking forward to the Mezzer.

  143. #4143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davist12 View Post
    Iíd love the guide you saw for tuning a Mezzer pro if thatís cool!

    I just ordered one for my RAF, but Iíll need to drop the travel to 160 or maybe try 170. Iím coming from a diamond and am very much looking forward to the Mezzer.
    If you want it plush set the main air spring to 25% of you body weight and multiply that figure by 1.5 and set the IRT to that. Make sure you set the IRT first and make sure the fork is at full extension before removing the pump from the main air spring valve, the bottom one. This is important because the + and - self equalise and you will have whatever travel the fork is sitting at when you remove the pump. If you want it to ramp up and become more progressive then add pressure to the IRT 2 psi at a time. Even 1 psi makes a difference. Rebound will obviously depend on your air pressure and compression is a personal thing. I donít know what you weigh ready to ride but Iím 73kg or 160lb and Iím running 40 psi in the main and 62 psi in the IRT, 5 clicks of rebound from closed counted from the first click back from the stop, HSC open, LSC 2 clicks from open.
    I found the pressures on the fork leg to be on the high side but Iím light. That may change if you are heavier but Iíve read in multiple places that most people are finding the same thing regardless of weight. Anyway try my formula then try what is on the fork leg and you will know instantly which way you want to go.

  144. #4144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davist12 View Post
    Iíd love the guide you saw for tuning a Mezzer pro if thatís cool!

    I just ordered one for my RAF, but Iíll need to drop the travel to 160 or maybe try 170. Iím coming from a diamond and am very much looking forward to the Mezzer.
    DMíed!


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  145. #4145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davist12 View Post
    Iíd love the guide you saw for tuning a Mezzer pro if thatís cool!

    I just ordered one for my RAF, but Iíll need to drop the travel to 160 or maybe try 170. Iím coming from a diamond and am very much looking forward to the Mezzer.
    Also I would recommend you stay at 160mm too. You will void warrantee otherwise and with the hydraulic bottom out bumper I donít believe you need more. The Mezzer already has a slightly longer axle to crown height (measured) of about 5mm anyway so it will make the bike slightly higher and slacker in the front end anyway.

  146. #4146
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    Ripmo AF Thread

    Several lucky folks with their Mezzer Pros ordered have reached out to me regarding the in-depth review and article.

    In case there are more of you DVO deserters out there, this is no secret. So here is the link :
    https://nsmb.com/articles/riding-tal...-pro-irt-fork/

    Enjoy!


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  147. #4147
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    Anyone want to upgrade stuff on your RAF but come up short every time because its just that good?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Anyone want to upgrade stuff on your RAF but come up short every time because its just that good?
    Nope the last two upgrades I did were VERY good improvements especially the fork. What I did though was upgrade with stuff that didnít really change the geo too much because it was already right in the sweet spot I recon. The fork did make the bike slightly slacker due to a 5mm longer axle to crown but that only made it a little better. Iíve come to the conclusion that this is the best all round bike in existence. Itís not just good at everything I think it excels at everything. It doesnít have a weakness I can find or think of. Iíve got one more upgrade Iím doing next week which will be another significant one but it again wonít change the geo from what the bike has now.

  149. #4149
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Anyone want to upgrade stuff on your RAF but come up short every time because its just that good?
    Tell me about it. Been on the fence regarding the eewings or an XTR cassette and crankset.

    After a long hard think of where I am in life after a career transition, how well the bike is performing already, and how well everything on the Slx components are still working fine, I only ended up ordering some things to replace worn items, namely my chain ring and chain. Splurged on some oil slick
    colored Absolute Black oval chain ring to save my knees and an XTR chain with a whopping $4 discount.

    Itís also incredibly hard to find the things you want given this environment. Shimano 12 speeds particularly are sold out in a lot of places and no place has sale except maybe Pro Bike Supply.


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  150. #4150
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    For anyone interested

    Mezzer Pro are now down to $749 on their site for Black Friday - also confirmed via email and their tech support that they are fulfilling the most current off the production line version/iteration of the fork.

  151. #4151
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Nope the last two upgrades I did were VERY good improvements especially the fork. What I did though was upgrade with stuff that didnít really change the geo too much because it was already right in the sweet spot I recon. The fork did make the bike slightly slacker due to a 5mm longer axle to crown but that only made it a little better. Iíve come to the conclusion that this is the best all round bike in existence. Itís not just good at everything I think it excels at everything. It doesnít have a weakness I can find or think of. Iíve got one more upgrade Iím doing next week which will be another significant one but it again wonít change the geo from what the bike has now.
    Literally my only gripe is the weight, makes me slower on the climbs but who cares about that? Haha. Been looking at an Onyx fork to replace the Diamond but can't seem to pull the trigger as I have no complaints about the Diamond. Was changing tires around for a bit but finally found a setup I like to ride. I think I'll be selling the DVO progressive spring I wanted to try, 425-500lb in green if anyone is interested?? The straight 500lb spring is more supportive initially which I like after riding the bike today. I am curious to try a 475-575lb though if anyone is up for a trade.

  152. #4152
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Tell me about it. Been on the fence regarding the eewings or an XTR cassette and crankset.

    After a long hard think of where I am in life after a career transition, how well the bike is performing already, and how well everything on the Slx components are still working fine, I only ended up ordering some things to replace worn items, namely my chain ring and chain. Splurged on some oil slick
    colored Absolute Black oval chain ring to save my knees and an XTR chain with a whopping $4 discount.

    Itís also incredibly hard to find the things you want given this environment. Shimano 12 speeds particularly are sold out in a lot of places and no place has sale except maybe Pro Bike Supply.


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    I am curious about those oval rings, how will it save your knees?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Literally my only gripe is the weight, makes me slower on the climbs but who cares about that? Haha. Been looking at an Onyx fork to replace the Diamond but can't seem to pull the trigger as I have no complaints about the Diamond. Was changing tires around for a bit but finally found a setup I like to ride. I think I'll be selling the DVO progressive spring I wanted to try, 425-500lb in green if anyone is interested?? The straight 500lb spring is more supportive initially which I like after riding the bike today. I am curious to try a 475-575lb though if anyone is up for a trade.
    I think going from a Diamond to an Onyx might be like going from your girlfriend to her sister. Might be exciting at first but in the end they have the same DNA and will most likely end up being similar in more ways than what you first thought.
    With the price kamper11 just posted on the Mezzer it is an absolute no brainer. Even if they were 20% more expensive than the Onyx I would still buy one. They rock.

  154. #4154
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    I think going from a Diamond to an Onyx might be like going from your girlfriend to her sister. Might be exciting at first but in the end they have the same DNA and will most likely end up being similar in more ways than what you first thought.
    With the price kamper11 just posted on the Mezzer it is an absolute no brainer. Even if they were 20% more expensive than the Onyx I would still buy one. They rock.
    Dang, high praises for the Mezzer!

  155. #4155
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    Ripmo AF Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I am curious about those oval rings, how will it save your knees?
    This is a very controversial subject. But plenty of research and review on the matter on the inter web. Oneup, Absolute Black and Wolf tooth sell these.

    Basically the premise of an oval CR is that it is more ergonomic for the human legs to pedal than a perfect round CR. Say you are on a 30T oval, the ovality of the CR means that whenever you get ready to put a power stroke down, it feels like you are pedaling a 28T because the CR is clocked as such that the smaller diameter of the CR comes around at the top of your power stroke. Off the power stroke, it goes back to a 32T providing the speed and ratio of a bigger CR every other revolution. The combined effect is a CR that gives you fresher legs as compared to a round CR with same size. This is a direct opposite of Biopace, a Shimano flop from way before I started MTB where their rings were clocked where the power stroke lined up with the bigger diameter of the CR which made the power stroke harder to pedal.

    My 2 other bikes have ovals and still on 11 speeds. I can ride as long as I need to on them and have fresher legs. The RAF is on the Slx round CR and because of how often Iím riding it, Iím beginning to develop knee pains.


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  156. #4156
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    For anyone interested

    Mezzer Pro are now down to $749 on their site for Black Friday - also confirmed via email and their tech support that they are fulfilling the most current off the production line version/iteration of the fork.
    Well...?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    Ordered the Dominion A4 brakes. No sales tax in WI + 25% off = score.

    I called Hayes on Tuesday and was really impressed. All aluminum; no plastic parts. They said they are trying to get back to their roots and target the upgrade market instead of compromising to spec OEM parts. Apparently the Mezzer and Dominions are a result of their refocused efforts.

    My first hydraulic brakes were Hayes back in the day. Glad to support them. Hopefully they are as good as they sound!


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  158. #4158
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Literally my only gripe is the weight, makes me slower on the climbs but who cares about that? Haha.
    That's an easy fix - get a v2 frame and save a couple of pounds

  159. #4159
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    That's an easy fix - get a v2 frame and save a couple of pounds
    Ya maybe someday when they come back in stock!

  160. #4160
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    Anyone willing to trade a DVO 500 SL spring against my 550?

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    Maxxis tyres

    So Iíve been running a DHF 3C Maxx-grip WT EXO 2.5 on the front and an Aggressor rear. I really liked that combo up until now. Last weekend I destroyed my Aggressor. Not just a flat it was like I gave it a cesarean.
    I already had a new pair of tyres ready to go so after walking my bike out of the trail EXTREMELY disappointed because it was also my first ride on the EXT Storia V3 I had just fitted I went home and put the new tyres on.
    In fairness the tyres were pretty tired and due to be replaced anyway. So I put exactly the same front tyre back on because I recon that tyre is the bomb. I love it. I did have an Assegai Maxx-terra on there for a very short time but found it was too draggy feeling. I think the DHF in Maxx-grip has about the same amount of grip but rolls a little faster and is definitely lighter then the Assegai. I also had a DHRII on there when I bought the bike and there was also one on the Yeti SB150 I demoíd for 5 days before I bought the Ripmo and it appears Iím one of the few people that hates that rear tyre. I recon it sucks arse. I just canít gel with it.
    On the rear I put a Dissector Maxx-terra 3C 2.4 EXO because Iíve been wondering about them but Iím a bit of a creature of habit and liked the Aggressor DHF combo so I was a little reluctant to change. The Dissector is a superior tyre in pretty much every aspect of itís performance. The grip is better by a margin it tracks better than the Aggressor it holds on the side of rocks or off camber sections better and I donít think itís much slower if any. Itís just a better tyre full stop. The bike does feel a tad slower in certain situations but I think thatís because I was on pretty worn tyres with much shorter knobs. I think most of the slightly slower feeling is coming from the new full length gummy centre knobs on the DHF rather than the rear slowing me down. The slightly slower (maybe) feeling is soon made up for in situations where grip is important. Definitely feels like Iím faster in the corners because I feel more confident. This is now my new combo. I will not be going back to the Aggressor. BIG 👍👍👍 for the Dissector.

  162. #4162
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    So Iíve been running a DHF 3C Maxx-grip WT EXO 2.5 on the front and an Aggressor rear. I really liked that combo up until now. Last weekend I destroyed my Aggressor. Not just a flat it was like I gave it a cesarean.
    I already had a new pair of tyres ready to go so after walking my bike out of the trail EXTREMELY disappointed because it was also my first ride on the EXT Storia V3 I had just fitted I went home and put the new tyres on.
    In fairness the tyres were pretty tired and due to be replaced anyway. So I put exactly the same front tyre back on because I recon that tyre is the bomb. I love it. I did have an Assegai Maxx-terra on there for a very short time but found it was too draggy feeling. I think the DHF in Maxx-grip has about the same amount of grip but rolls a little faster and is definitely lighter then the Assegai. I also had a DHRII on there when I bought the bike and there was also one on the Yeti SB150 I demoíd for 5 days before I bought the Ripmo and it appears Iím one of the few people that hates that rear tyre. I recon it sucks arse. I just canít gel with it.
    On the rear I put a Dissector Maxx-terra 3C 2.4 EXO because Iíve been wondering about them but Iím a bit of a creature of habit and liked the Aggressor DHF combo so I was a little reluctant to change. The Dissector is a superior tyre in pretty much every aspect of itís performance. The grip is better by a margin it tracks better than the Aggressor it holds on the side of rocks or off camber sections better and I donít think itís much slower if any. Itís just a better tyre full stop. The bike does feel a tad slower in certain situations but I think thatís because I was on pretty worn tyres with much shorter knobs. I think most of the slightly slower feeling is coming from the new full length gummy centre knobs on the DHF rather than the rear slowing me down. The slightly slower (maybe) feeling is soon made up for in situations where grip is important. Definitely feels like Iím faster in the corners because I feel more confident. This is now my new combo. I will not be going back to the Aggressor. BIG  for the Dissector.
    Also dig the Dissector, my only gripe is it wears much quicker than the Aggressor.

  163. #4163
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Also dig the Dissector, my only gripe is it wears much quicker than the Aggressor.
    Yeah I can definitely see that being the case. I donít care though. If it gives me 3 months I will be ok with that. Itís more about the ride each time I go out rather than if I get a month or two more out of a tyre.

  164. #4164
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Yeah I can definitely see that being the case. I donít care though. If it gives me 3 months I will be ok with that. Itís more about the ride each time I go out rather than if I get a month or two more out of a tyre.
    You could also try the dual compound Dissector, should last a little longer than the 3C you have. Albeit with a little less grip than the 3C too

  165. #4165
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    DVO Custom Shop

    Anyone see the new DVO custom shop? https://dvosuspension.com/custom-shop/

    Looks like a new option on their site. Being a fly weight at 135lbs, I might send my fork in... if available.

    It looks like something they will do on new purchases, I would guess they would perform the same service on a previously purchased fork.

    It would be great if you could just purchase the shims from them and diy. Would save a lot of shipping costs.

  166. #4166
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    You could also try the dual compound Dissector, should last a little longer than the 3C you have. Albeit with a little less grip than the 3C too
    Yeah I could and thought about it but I could also do the same with the front and go with the Maxx-terra but Iíve decided I like the grip and extra confidence so Iíll take my medicine in the form of buying tyres a little bit more often. And being slightly slower rolling too. In theory.

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    Has the Dissector always been offered in Exo+ or is that new since summer? Donít recall seeing that when I swapped out the Assegai for DHR II.

    I wish they made an Aggressor in Exo+ though. That would be my top pick.


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  168. #4168
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Has the Dissector always been offered in Exo+ or is that new since summer? Donít recall seeing that when I swapped out the Assegai for DHR II.

    I wish they made an Aggressor in Exo+ though. That would be my top pick.


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    I asked about this a couple of weeks ago because after blowing my rear tyre so badly I was going to go EXO+ but the supplier said not yet available but coming soon. That might be only over here but either way they are a relatively new addition to the line up apparently.

  169. #4169
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    Sheesh mate - about time you get with the Dissector program... yeah she's a really good rear tire!! I have regular EXO as the + was never around yet have since seen a couple hanging on th walls of lbs...

    BTW - I pulled the trig on the Mezzer - shipping tomorrow.... ill go back and read your setup notes.

    Cheers!

  170. #4170
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Sheesh mate - about time you get with the Dissector program... yeah she's a really good rear tire!! I have regular EXO as the + was never around yet have since seen a couple hanging on th walls of lbs...

    BTW - I pulled the trig on the Mezzer - shipping tomorrow.... ill go back and read your setup notes.

    Cheers!
    Awesome I think you will like it. ALOT. Try starting at 1/4 of your body weight in lb in the main and multiply that by 1.5 for the IRT. From there I went up another 2 psi in the IRT. So Iím at 40 psi in the main and 62 psi in the IRT. Tried 4 psi more in the IRT and felt it was a little too much. I havenít tried dropping the main lower yet. I think it may start to feel a bit too soft with much less in the main but I could be wrong. The damper is so amazing it could probably take it. Also you have to set the IRT pressure first. Very important. Also itís very important to set the main pressure with the wheel off the ground and pull down on the fork to make sure itís fully extended BEFORE removing the pump. The + and - air spring are self equalising so no need to cycle the fork after putting pressure in. Problem with that is if the fork is slightly compressed it will stay there and you will lose that travel.
    The way to think about this air spring set up is if you have a bigger difference between the + and IRT the fork will be more progressive because it will allow that main air spring to build more pressure before the IRT starts to move. So if you were using my set up as an example the IRT doesnít start to move until the main equals itís pressure of 62 psi then it sort of becomes one big air spring so because the + is smaller than the 2 springs combined it will build pressure more quickly with the bigger difference in pressure. Once the IRT and main are working together then the progression will be more gradual because they are compressing a combined bigger volume. I hope that makes sense.

  171. #4171
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Also dig the Dissector, my only gripe is it wears much quicker than the Aggressor.
    Yep. I spent way too much time reading the Dissector thread and the consensus is that it's good but wears too fast and/or prone to sidewall tears. It's lighter than the others after all and that weight has to come from somewhere. Many went back to the DHR2 since it comes in DC EXO+ or the Aggressor in EXO or DD. Also worth noting, a lot of people including some top enduro pros run DHF 2.5 front and rear.

    I agree with some others, my pick would be an Aggressor in EXO+ but they don't make it! Ugh
    2020 Ripmo AF

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    mine arrived last friday. cant believe i only had to wait 2 weeks. big kudos to Shaun at N+1. XL deore build with carbon bars, bike yoke dropper and xt shifter upgrade. gonna add some little green detail bits but is pretty much ready to ride. trying to sell Onyx and get Mezzer instead. probably will go with some sort of bonty tire combo or maxxiss combo in 2.4-2.5 range once these schwalbe tires wear out. weight wise, its a a pig compared to my ripley v4, but its going to be my beater bike for a winter, will sure keep me in shape.
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  173. #4173
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavo View Post
    mine arrived last friday. cant believe i only had to wait 2 weeks. big kudos to Shaun at N+1. XL deore build with carbon bars, bike yoke dropper and xt shifter upgrade. gonna add some little green detail bits but is pretty much ready to ride. trying to sell Onyx and get Mezzer instead. probably will go with some sort of bonty tire combo or maxxiss combo in 2.4-2.5 range once these schwalbe tires wear out. weight wise, its a a pig compared to my ripley v4, but its going to be my beater bike for a winter, will sure keep me in shape.
    'Comes to the AF thread' and calls it a beater. Lol

    Come on man, we're AF fans here! Also, of course it's heavy compared to a carbon short travel Ripley with a light duty fork and I'm guessing, carbon wheels and higher end build kit but compared to a carbon Ripmo of the same build kit, it's only 2 lbs which isn't bad.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  174. #4174
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Ordered the Dominion A4 brakes. No sales tax in WI + 25% off = score.

    I called Hayes on Tuesday and was really impressed. All aluminum; no plastic parts. They said they are trying to get back to their roots and target the upgrade market instead of compromising to spec OEM parts. Apparently the Mezzer and Dominions are a result of their refocused efforts.

    My first hydraulic brakes were Hayes back in the day. Glad to support them. Hopefully they are as good as they sound!


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    I'll save you the disappointment in advance. You need to use their adapters and they are out of stock most places.....ask how I know. Save on the brakes but have to buy 2 $25 mounts.

  175. #4175
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    I'll save you the disappointment in advance. You need to use their adapters and they are out of stock most places.....ask how I know. Save on the brakes but have to buy 2 $25 mounts.
    I saw that online and Hayes thought I could find them through other shops but said theyíd have them back in stock in a couple weeks.

    I hear ya though, because I didnít want to buy them and find out I canít get a post mount until July. I was told people have gotten them to work with other adapters, but guess I wonít know until I try.

    In the end, Iím not really saving anything than if I just went with the Code RSCís, so not sure Dominions are ďworth itĒ I guess Iíll see. I think I got drawn in with the nostalgia factor. You running them now?


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  176. #4176
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Yep. I spent way too much time reading the Dissector thread and the consensus is that it's good but wears too fast and/or prone to sidewall tears. It's lighter than the others after all and that weight has to come from somewhere. Many went back to the DHR2 since it comes in DC EXO+ or the Aggressor in EXO or DD. Also worth noting, a lot of people including some top enduro pros run DHF 2.5 front and rear.

    I agree with some others, my pick would be an Aggressor in EXO+ but they don't make it! Ugh
    The Dissector comes in EXO, EXO+, DH, Dual compound, Maxx-terra and Maxx-grip. Just choose whatís important to you. I liked the Aggressor but after using the Dissector for me it is definitely a superior tyre is every single aspect of the ride and itís performance. Tread wear is another thing and that remains to be seen. One thing is for sure though I will NEVER be putting a DHRII on my bike again. I would use an Aggressor again any day over them.

  177. #4177
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    The Dissector comes in EXO, EXO+, DH, Dual compound, Maxx-terra and Maxx-grip. Just choose whatís important to you. I liked the Aggressor but after using the Dissector for me it is definitely a superior tyre is every single aspect of the ride and itís performance. Tread wear is another thing and that remains to be seen. One thing is for sure though I will NEVER be putting a DHRII on my bike again. I would use an Aggressor again any day over them.
    The missing Dissector many would like is a DC EXO+, which is what I was referring to. They don't make it. The DC rubber lasts longer as a rear tire. They make an EXO+ but only in Maxterra, which is why it gets chewed up faster.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  178. #4178
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    well - it does have the onyx so yeah - a beater - HA jk man.

    Mezzer in route to test on my RAF... shortly (except for freezing ass temps holding me and fork back) should have a review of Diamond vs Lyrik Ulti vs Mez. The first 10 of 12 rounds were a quick knockout by the Lyrik... wanted to really like the Diamond, but even like was a strong word... Lyrik has been set/forget great. But the Mezzer boys here (Hokie and Oz) convinced my compulsive side to grab a Mez on black Friday.

  179. #4179
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    Thinking about a Works headset, anyone running one? Trying to decide between 1 or 1.5 degrees.
    Ripmo AF
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  180. #4180
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    The Dissector comes in EXO, EXO+, DH, Dual compound, Maxx-terra and Maxx-grip. Just choose whatís important to you. I liked the Aggressor but after using the Dissector for me it is definitely a superior tyre is every single aspect of the ride and itís performance. Tread wear is another thing and that remains to be seen. One thing is for sure though I will NEVER be putting a DHRII on my bike again. I would use an Aggressor again any day over them.
    What is wrong with the DHR2?? Iím loving it!

    Aggressors disintegrated on me 3 times. 2 on a 27.5 bike and 1 on the AF. Love the Aggressorís rolling speed but side walls not up to snuff in razor rock country.


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  181. #4181
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    well - it does have the onyx so yeah - a beater - HA jk man.

    Mezzer in route to test on my RAF... shortly (except for freezing ass temps holding me and fork back) should have a review of Diamond vs Lyrik Ulti vs Mez. The first 10 of 12 rounds were a quick knockout by the Lyrik... wanted to really like the Diamond, but even like was a strong word... Lyrik has been set/forget great. But the Mezzer boys here (Hokie and Oz) convinced my compulsive side to grab a Mez on black Friday.
    Hmm, interesting going for a 3rd fork! I am quite possibly the worlds toughest sell on anything. I've been known to walk into a store looking for something specific with cash in hand, find and pick up said item, look it over, put it back down and walk back out! My wife hates that. I saw the Mezzer at $750 but make it a habit to not buy based on only two recommendations! I mean, there's thousands of guys out there who swear hardtails are the cats meow. Lol, just kidding guys but really, I just don't have enough local friends or really anyone I know on a Mezzer and I live in a full on MTB town. I do however have time on the Lyrik and it was buttery smooth and this was pre-2021 air shaft change. Supple small bump compliance and a super smooth, zero stiction feel were the pros. Less support than the DVO or Fox were the cons. It'll be interesting to hear your feedback on all three.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  182. #4182
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    What is wrong with the DHR2?? Iím loving it!

    Aggressors disintegrated on me 3 times. 2 on a 27.5 bike and 1 on the AF. Love the Aggressorís rolling speed but side walls not up to snuff in razor rock country.


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    For sure! The DHR2 is the most universally loved enduro rear tire for good reason.

    Aggressor does well in dry places without "razor rock" though. They just need to release an EXO+. The regular EXO is a bit too weak and the DD is too heavy.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  183. #4183
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    What is wrong with the DHR2?? Iím loving it!

    Aggressors disintegrated on me 3 times. 2 on a 27.5 bike and 1 on the AF. Love the Aggressorís rolling speed but side walls not up to snuff in razor rock country.


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    Itís traction on off camber loose terrain and powder over hard pack off camber SUCKS. I didnít have that much of an issue with braking and straight line stuff. Just off camber. It is mainly while climbing when you need to pop up over something or put a fair bit of power through the pedals but itís still a pain in arse. The rear slid out on me several times in that situation when I really didnít need it to. On both the Yeti SB 150 I demoíd for 5 days and my AF. As soon as I changed to the Aggressor it stopped. The Disssector is even better. I think itís because of the rectangular knobs that run side to side on the DHRII. Good for braking but not much side bite off camber because the skinny side of the rectangle hasnít got enough area relative to the front and back side.
    Thatís just my experience with them so it depends on what you prioritise. Thatís why different tyres are available I just know I wonít be laying down money for one ever again. There is other options I MUCH prefer.

  184. #4184
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    I saw that online and Hayes thought I could find them through other shops but said theyíd have them back in stock in a couple weeks.

    I hear ya though, because I didnít want to buy them and find out I canít get a post mount until July. I was told people have gotten them to work with other adapters, but guess I wonít know until I try.

    In the end, Iím not really saving anything than if I just went with the Code RSCís, so not sure Dominions are ďworth itĒ I guess Iíll see. I think I got drawn in with the nostalgia factor. You running them now?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Not yet, just ordered the mounts and are waiting. I have a buddy running them on his pre prod development bike and loves them. Stole the Zees off the ripmo to build a V2 Smuggler for winter. Even with way less travel its so much more plush, it is what I will be shooting for once I start attempt 2 of tuning the RAF.

  185. #4185
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    I saw that online and Hayes thought I could find them through other shops but said theyíd have them back in stock in a couple weeks.

    I hear ya though, because I didnít want to buy them and find out I canít get a post mount until July. I was told people have gotten them to work with other adapters, but guess I wonít know until I try.

    In the end, Iím not really saving anything than if I just went with the Code RSCís, so not sure Dominions are ďworth itĒ I guess Iíll see. I think I got drawn in with the nostalgia factor. You running them now?


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    Not sure if this will help, but I ran them with Magura adapters without issue until I got the Hayes adapters.
    Ibis Ripmo AF Jade X // Commencal Absolut

  186. #4186
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    Quote Originally Posted by jabber127 View Post
    Not sure if this will help, but I ran them with Magura adapters without issue until I got the Hayes adapters.
    Edited to remove misinformation... There's definitely enough of that floating around these days as it is.

  187. #4187
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    For all those looking for Hayes adapters, I just touched base with my buddy, who's the Western Canada Hayes/Manitou tech. He says that Shimano adapters use the IS standard that Hayes invented eons ago, and that Shimano adapters are therefor compatible.

    SRAM is the company that deviated from that IS standard when the stopped having their brakes made by Formula.
    I'm confused. Why would IS be relevant? AF is post mount.

    It's more of a caliper size/clearance issue, unless that's what you mean and I'm missing something.
    Ibis Ripmo AF Jade X // Commencal Absolut

  188. #4188
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    Quote Originally Posted by jabber127 View Post
    I'm confused. Why would IS be relevant? AF is post mount.

    It's more of a caliper size/clearance issue, unless that's what you mean and I'm missing something.
    Edited to remove misinformation... There's definitely enough of that floating around these days as it is.

  189. #4189
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    How often is one supposed to service bushings on our sweat ride? Is this all I need to do it?

    https://store.ibiscycles.com/ripmo-a...-kit-p488.aspx

  190. #4190
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    Quote Originally Posted by VancouverMTBr View Post
    How often is one supposed to service bushings on our sweat ride? Is this all I need to do it?

    https://store.ibiscycles.com/ripmo-a...-kit-p488.aspx
    Ibis gives a lifetime replacement warranty on their bushings. So if you need to replace yours, I'd contact them first and see what they'll sort out for you. I haven't heard of anyone going that route yet with the RAF, so I'm interested how easy that process might be...

  191. #4191
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Sorry, my terminology may have been confusing. Although the kind of adapter that threads onto frame tabs are commonly referred to as "IS mounts", the caliper location relative to rotor size is also an IS standard.

    The takeaway is that since Hayes and Shimano run 180/203 rotors (compared to Sram at 200), and they use the same standard, Shimano mounts are compatible with Hayes Brakes. Straight from the horses mouth. You just can't use Shimano rotors with Dominions due to rotor thickness.
    That is incorrect. the height may be the same but the shape of the dominion A4 is odd. The shimano brackets used to mount my 4 piston Zees on 203 rotors front and rear will not work with my A4s, the caliper hits the bracket with about 3mm to go before the mounting feet touch. Also, Shimano rotors are fine, I have them.

  192. #4192
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    That is incorrect. the height may be the same but the shape of the dominion A4 is odd. The shimano brackets used to mount my 4 piston Zees on 203 rotors front and rear will not work with my A4s, the caliper hits the bracket with about 3mm to go before the mounting feet touch. Also, Shimano rotors are fine, I have them.
    My apologies guys, for the misinformation. It would seem by bud must have typed a pretty lazy/incorrect response to my text question. I'll go back and edit my post to avoid confusion.

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    Yeah man I hear ya - lets call it a good bit of impulse shopping on my part and late evening w a couple solid double IPA's on board. I have had my moments of buyers remorse (as in I didn't NEED to do it) but than the customer service guys at Hayes/Manitou have been great. It was sold out in the 160mm travel - I sent 1 email asking if they would change the travel and they changed it from 180 to 160 prior to shipping. Will get it Friday. Im hoping with the input from Oz / Hokie I can get a great starting point and fine tune quickly - Im not looking for a fiddle fest frankly and chasing after it. But if what everyone claims (inc the online mag reviews) of how good it is - it sounds like exactly what I've been seeking out.

    I will move the Lyrik to my hardtail or any future n+1 ideas that may materialize - and boy have the voices in my head have been debating options!! I can move the entire build over from the hardtail so if a good option for a frame only ever emerges or ever comes in from overseas . I have the Lyrik and can go as low as 140mm travel if need be.

  194. #4194
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    Not yet, just ordered the mounts and are waiting. I have a buddy running them on his pre prod development bike and loves them. Stole the Zees off the ripmo to build a V2 Smuggler for winter. Even with way less travel its so much more plush, it is what I will be shooting for once I start attempt 2 of tuning the RAF.
    V2 Smuggler huh? Those are cool bikes. How's it compare to the AF otherwise? I wonder why they discontinued that bike. 4 bar bikes do ride super plush. I was oogling the new Stumpy Evo today. That thing is a deal. I'd almost dare say that the $4100 carbon SLX Stumpy Evo is now the better deal than the SLX and GX Ripmo AF. I'm a bit tempted because they fixed the things I didn't like about the last Stumpy and.... priced the carbon very competitively.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  195. #4195
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Yeah man I hear ya - lets call it a good bit of impulse shopping on my part and late evening w a couple solid double IPA's on board. I have had my moments of buyers remorse (as in I didn't NEED to do it) but than the customer service guys at Hayes/Manitou have been great. It was sold out in the 160mm travel - I sent 1 email asking if they would change the travel and they changed it from 180 to 160 prior to shipping. Will get it Friday. Im hoping with the input from Oz / Hokie I can get a great starting point and fine tune quickly - Im not looking for a fiddle fest frankly and chasing after it. But if what everyone claims (inc the online mag reviews) of how good it is - it sounds like exactly what I've been seeking out.

    I will move the Lyrik to my hardtail or any future n+1 ideas that may materialize - and boy have the voices in my head have been debating options!! I can move the entire build over from the hardtail so if a good option for a frame only ever emerges or ever comes in from overseas . I have the Lyrik and can go as low as 140mm travel if need be.
    Hmm, I'm sure you'll like it and it'll be nice to have options for future builds. I had a hard time reading Kazimer's Pinkbike review because I've had the same exact opinion on every single review he did and bike I demo'd. The comments are funny, stating that he just did the setup wrong and then he chimes in multiple times defending his thorough setup, including various changes and he's a guy who really know how to setup, demo and review bikes more than I would. Regardless, there's lots of glowing reports out there too so I bet you'll be good. I think I'll pick up a Lyrik this winter or.... a new complete new bike!
    2020 Ripmo AF

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    Quote Originally Posted by jabber127 View Post
    Not sure if this will help, but I ran them with Magura adapters without issue until I got the Hayes adapters.
    Good to know. Thanks!


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    Ripmo AF Thread

    About to pull trigger on a V2 (I know, I know...)
    Wait time is an OMFG 7 month wait. Iím debating whether to just order the frameset and transfer everything from my AF over and then sell the AF frame. Or am I better off just putting in for a new complete build vs a frame?

    For folks who regularly upgrade, what would be a more feasible and $$ minimized route? For me, I love the current component level on my AF and would be a no brainer to just transfer everything over (except the pork chop bag that for some reason donít fit ). But a 7 month lead time means that by then, things like the drivetrain will start to wear. Further, selling frame alone may be more difficult then a complete bike but I just donít want to shell out additional $5-$6k while my AF is waiting to sell if I can help it.

    Thoughts/ Advise?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  198. #4198
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    Quote Originally Posted by VancouverMTBr View Post
    How often is one supposed to service bushings on our sweat ride? Is this all I need to do it?

    https://store.ibiscycles.com/ripmo-a...-kit-p488.aspx
    Technically, if your bushings are not worn or cracked and you are careful when removing the thin o-rings, you wonít need anything.

    But say you need to replace them all, the link you posted is only for the clevis and upper bushings. You will still need the lowers. Personally, I wouldnít bother unless itís worn or cracked you just follow Ibisí bushing warranty process and they send you free ones. But you will need to deal with the lead time should you find issues with no parts on hand.

    What you might potentially need are new upper link bolts. One of mine was stripped (someone from factory probably jammed it in without proper alignment). Bearings in the link assembly can wear too and Ibis recommends just replacing the whole link rather than try to drift the old bearings out. These are not covered under warranty.


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  199. #4199
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    About to pull trigger on a V2 (I know, I know...)
    Wait time is an OMFG 7 month wait. Iím debating whether to just order the frameset and transfer everything from my AF over and then sell the AF frame. Or am I better off just putting in for a new complete build vs a frame?

    For folks who regularly upgrade, what would be a more feasible and $$ minimized route? For me, I love the current component level on my AF and would be a no brainer to just transfer everything over (except the pork chop bag that for some reason donít fit ). But a 7 month lead time means that by then, things like the drivetrain will start to wear. Further, selling frame alone may be more difficult then a complete bike but I just donít want to shell out additional $5-$6k while my AF is waiting to sell if I can help it.

    Thoughts/ Advise?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    As you are aware already and I will let the cat out of the bag now I have bought a complete X01 build V2. I did the sums and it worked out around AUD2000 cheaper to buy a complete build rather than build one up from the frame. So much so that money wise it was even worth it to buy the complete bike with Fox Factory 36 and X2 and sell them afterwards because I wonít be using them and donít want to. That partially comes down to the importer over here selling the compete build kit for an Ibis at a reasonable price for our AUD. The LBS said they canít compete price wise on an Ibis complete build done in house built from a frame. With a Santa Cruz they said they can smash the price building one in house but not an Ibis. In saying that the price we still pay over here would make your hair curl compared to over there.
    What you said about your components wearing by delivery time is also a valid point. I would buy a complete build and sell your bike complete if I were you. Thatís my plan. DVO back in the RAF and sell ready to ride. You may save a small amount of money transferring your stuff in the short term but the difference will most likely be made up and then some shortly down the track replacing worn out stuff. The other way you will start off with a completely fresh bike and most likely it will be cheaper in the long run to buy everything with the bike rather than buying individual components later.
    Iíve already done some upgrades from the X01 build too. One being an Onyx Vesper. The other is obviously my suspension. I was supposed to get the bike tomorrow but there has been a delay of a few days due to the 70 plus bikes they had on back order all getting sent out. Next week now. Pretty excited. The other upgrade and itís the biggest upgrade of all is Iíve told them to take the DHRII off the bike and put a Dissector on there. 😉🤣🤣🤣

  200. #4200
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    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    About to pull trigger on a V2 (I know, I know...)
    Wait time is an OMFG 7 month wait. Iím debating whether to just order the frameset and transfer everything from my AF over and then sell the AF frame. Or am I better off just putting in for a new complete build vs a frame?

    For folks who regularly upgrade, what would be a more feasible and $$ minimized route? For me, I love the current component level on my AF and would be a no brainer to just transfer everything over (except the pork chop bag that for some reason donít fit ). But a 7 month lead time means that by then, things like the drivetrain will start to wear. Further, selling frame alone may be more difficult then a complete bike but I just donít want to shell out additional $5-$6k while my AF is waiting to sell if I can help it.

    Thoughts/ Advise?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I agree with OZ, easier to sell complete but keep any big upgrades you may have like carbon wheels, etc. I can't remember your build. I put a solid dollar value on my time for the frustration of buying and selling parts so I'd pass on this option. The one exception would be if you had a really Gucci build like EE Wings, I9 bits, etc. The RAF should be pretty easy sell. Scoring a V2 can be pretty easy but that varies of course. My buddy just walked into one at a shop in Downieville. Sports Basement in the Bay Area is showing some online. I also see them pop on in limited quantities on Jensen and see and hear of them in other shops. I was just in St. George and went in to demo a bike and they had a Blue V2 hanging there for sale. They're around. Just got to reserve some time to call/search around.
    2020 Ripmo AF

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