Ripmo AF Thread - Page 18- Mtbr.com
Page 18 of 18 FirstFirst ... 81415161718
Results 3,401 to 3,573 of 3573

Thread: Ripmo AF Thread

  1. #3401
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by jeff_er_why View Post
    edited, thanks. I think the Onyx is a better fit for the RimpoAF's more all-mountain build. I already had a fox 36 fit 4 to put on it since I'm more of a "set it and forget it" rider. Planning to sell the Onyx as a new-take off soon and prefer it over the Diamond since I imagine the Onyx will have a better resale value.
    Shoot me a PM when you want to sell it.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  2. #3402
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1

    Sizing

    Hi All. I am getting back into MTB after a few years of hiatus and far to many miles on gravel trails. Stumbled across a review of the Ripmo AF and fell in love. And wow, bikes sure have progressed during my absence !

    At 5'9" (175cm) I am in the "M" and the "L" frame size per IBIS website. I wrote them and asked what size they recommend, and they had good info. But I'd like to see what you all recommend too. There is no IBIS dealer in my area, so I am buying without a test ride. Unless someone happens to have a Ripmo in the Missouri area I can come sit on?

    Ready to ride I'm about 220 lbs. Normal arm length and such. My current ride is a Giant NRS, so the geometry is totally different than this modern stuff and I'm struggling trying to equate how that bike fits me vs. the Ripmo specs.

    I do NOT do insane jumps or hucks or other "HOLY FREAKING COWS" youtube riding, just normal trails at my timid and slow pace. Getting faster though...the years of non-riding are beginning to fade away....

    If folk could chime in with their height and frame size and WHY they went that way, plus the type of terrain you ride, that would be great.

    THANKS SO MUCH !

    F-Bear

  3. #3403
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by F-Bear View Post
    Hi All. I am getting back into MTB after a few years of hiatus and far to many miles on gravel trails. Stumbled across a review of the Ripmo AF and fell in love. And wow, bikes sure have progressed during my absence !

    At 5'9" (175cm) I am in the "M" and the "L" frame size per IBIS website. I wrote them and asked what size they recommend, and they had good info. But I'd like to see what you all recommend too. There is no IBIS dealer in my area, so I am buying without a test ride. Unless someone happens to have a Ripmo in the Missouri area I can come sit on?

    Ready to ride I'm about 220 lbs. Normal arm length and such. My current ride is a Giant NRS, so the geometry is totally different than this modern stuff and I'm struggling trying to equate how that bike fits me vs. the Ripmo specs.

    I do NOT do insane jumps or hucks or other "HOLY FREAKING COWS" youtube riding, just normal trails at my timid and slow pace. Getting faster though...the years of non-riding are beginning to fade away....

    If folk could chime in with their height and frame size and WHY they went that way, plus the type of terrain you ride, that would be great.

    THANKS SO MUCH !

    F-Bear
    5í9Ē and chose to ride a medium. I came from a large HD3 (which I felt fit perfectly) and was lucky enough to pedal a large RAF around a parking lot prior to ordering and as my RAF is my first 9íer I chose a medium as the large felt like it may be a handful on tighter trails in terms of total wheelbase. No regrets on going medium, but keep in mind it depends on what you want from the bike. I could ride the large and it would likely be more stable at high speed but take more effort in terms on maneuverability. No right or wrong answer to this question .

  4. #3404
    San Miguel Beer Drinker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by F-Bear View Post
    Hi All. I am getting back into MTB after a few years of hiatus and far to many miles on gravel trails. Stumbled across a review of the Ripmo AF and fell in love. And wow, bikes sure have progressed during my absence !

    At 5'9" (175cm) I am in the "M" and the "L" frame size per IBIS website. I wrote them and asked what size they recommend, and they had good info. But I'd like to see what you all recommend too. There is no IBIS dealer in my area, so I am buying without a test ride. Unless someone happens to have a Ripmo in the Missouri area I can come sit on?

    Ready to ride I'm about 220 lbs. Normal arm length and such. My current ride is a Giant NRS, so the geometry is totally different than this modern stuff and I'm struggling trying to equate how that bike fits me vs. the Ripmo specs.

    I do NOT do insane jumps or hucks or other "HOLY FREAKING COWS" youtube riding, just normal trails at my timid and slow pace. Getting faster though...the years of non-riding are beginning to fade away....

    If folk could chime in with their height and frame size and WHY they went that way, plus the type of terrain you ride, that would be great.

    THANKS SO MUCH !

    F-Bear
    I am 170cm and I ride a large.
    Main reason for that is my hardtail has a 475mm reach and the large is closest to that.

    My hardtail's geo is on the aggressive side, when i got the AF, adjustments were pretty much minimal. Got a pretty short stem (30mm) though, but with a low rise handlebar.

    My saddle height is around 710mm, and i was able to get away with a 185mm bikeyoke revive dropper.

    Riding style? I dont huck/jump. But i know how to handle a longish frame so im kinda at home with it.

    Youre a bit taller than me so probably you can get away with a large.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #3405
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    5í10. Riding a Large w relatively short stem (40mm) and itís perfect for me.

    Prior to buying, I was lucky enough the LBS had a medium on the showroom and got to test ride it in their parking lot. Though it rode fine, I felt it was a bit cramped. In the standup position, I felt a bit too hunched over. Though a longer stem and bars with higher upsweep might have fixed the issue, Iím glad I went with the Large.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #3406
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    65
    I'm 5-9, 175mm. I'm riding medium. Before RAF I was on medium Insurgent, and compared to that RAF feels like one size up. Works great for me as trail / AM bike.

    I'd say it depends on what you like. If you want to go as fast as you can go with large. If you want more "playful" go with medium.

    Besides reach also look at top tube length. Med is 603mm, L is 632mm. For me, above 630mm top tube I start to feel pressure on my hands while seated. Of course you can control that with stem and seat position.

    Another thing, you can try any bikes at bike shop, different sizes, pick ones you like and compare reach, top tube, stack and seat angle to ripmo.

    Either way it will be a great bike!

  7. #3407
    Unpredictable
    Reputation: Ridnparadise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,187
    Quote Originally Posted by GnarAF View Post
    That's actually an awesome upgrade. The XT shifter has a double downshift function that the slx doesn't have. It's the only part of the drivetrain that offers more functionality.
    The upshift on the SLX is a bit delayed, but it downshifts instantly. I can shift 1,2 or 3 cogs in a single push. It just took a little time to get the amount of lever travel memorised for the double and triple shifts.

  8. #3408
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    114

    jade x shaft color?

    What shaft color do you guys have? I had a pueter color that had gotten scratched and sent back for warranty, it was returned with a black shaft.

  9. #3409
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337

    Ripmo AF Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    What shaft color do you guys have? I had a pueter color that had gotten scratched and sent back for warranty, it was returned with a black shaft.
    Which suspension product are you referring to? Fox or DVO? Front or rear?

    The DVO Jade had known scratch issues reported by couple folks here but itís shaft color should be like a pale gold color. The only black shafts on DVO products specíd on RAF are the Topaz and front forks- Diamond and Onyx.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #3410
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Which suspension product are you referring to? Fox or DVO? Front or rear?

    The DVO Jade had known scratch issues reported by couple folks here but itís shaft color should be like a pale gold color. The only black shafts on DVO products specíd on RAF are the Topaz and front forks- Diamond and Onyx.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Exactly! I sent my jade x back to dvo with the pale gold shaft and it was returned with a black shaft. Wasnt sure if it was a new spec or something.

  11. #3411
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    384
    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    Exactly! I sent my jade x back to dvo with the pale gold shaft and it was returned with a black shaft. Wasnt sure if it was a new spec or something.
    Could be the new spec, who knows. Hope it lasts longer! My Jade X is still running strong without issues. Also just tore apart the Diamond again and changed fluid in the lowers/soaked the felts, good to go with a buttery smooth fork again

  12. #3412
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by Ridnparadise View Post
    The upshift on the SLX is a bit delayed, but it downshifts instantly. I can shift 1,2 or 3 cogs in a single push. It just took a little time to get the amount of lever travel memorised for the double and triple shifts.
    How is any of this even relevant the whole drivetrain is superfluous. You obviously donít need a chain ring let alone all that extra weight of 12 unnecessary gears hanging off the arse end and letís not even go down the road of suspension or a usable seat. Pfft itís all just bling for show offs.

  13. #3413
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    Exactly! I sent my jade x back to dvo with the pale gold shaft and it was returned with a black shaft. Wasnt sure if it was a new spec or something.
    Dude!! If thatís the case, dang thatís super cool! Got a pic?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #3414
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Dude!! If thatís the case, dang thatís super cool! Got a pic?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I do, but this site stinks for mobile and I can't attach one.

  15. #3415
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    I do, but this site stinks for mobile and I can't attach one.
    Download Tapatalk app. Super easy to post pic.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #3416
    mtbr member
    Reputation: amillion3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Lots of talk about down tube protectors on here. I don't think I'll end up needing one, but if I did, I'd look into the one for the Kona Operator Carbon.

    Here is a link to a product that another rider is trying out. He thinks it's the same one as the pictures above, and is ordering it to see. Seems like a nice affordable option, if it's the right one:
    Frame Protection: CMPWFP01 Downtube Protector | KONA PARTS
    The above Kona frame protector was out of stock for a while. They restocked last week or so. I ordered one and it fits pretty good. Just a heads up for anyone interested in going this route.

    Original post here.

  17. #3417
    mtbr member
    Reputation: fitnating's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    27
    Anyone on here waiting for their Ripmo AF's? Im a month in on a Metal XL Ripmo frame and fork combo. Looking at a mid September delivery window from my lbs. Wondering if anyone with that delivery timeframe has seen their bikes come earlier.

  18. #3418
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quick update on chasing creaks on this bike...

    Since around a month into riding this bike, I've been through various degrees of creak-chasing. Having had some temporary relief from fixing some usual culprits (free-hub play, cassette play, axle torque, pivot torques, pivot maintenance, etc...), I've still been trying to figure out the main issue causing my creak. Only happens when putting power down on climbs, and this has almost always been the case since about a month old.

    I read a "1000km XT 12spd" review, that mentioned two things that I've never ever included as a part of my bike maintenance, in all my 21 years of riding.
    1) A light greasing of the free-hub body before installing the cassette. I've always made sure to clean the body, and make sure it's torqued down tight, but never used grease.
    2) Lube the rivet pins on the pinned-together cassette, to prevent creaking in the future.

    So I did both of these in a "can't hurt, might help" moment, and damned if the bike didn't climb quieter than it ever has. My new bike, after 7 months, now actually sounds new. I have no doubt this will help some others out there.

    Edit: I have the stock HG-style free hub, and stock NX cassette, although I've upgraded to SLX mech. This may be important, as manufacturing processes and the freehub/cassette interface performance probably varies vastly between brands/models.

  19. #3419
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jabber127's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    103
    Quote Originally Posted by fitnating View Post
    Anyone on here waiting for their Ripmo AF's? Im a month in on a Metal XL Ripmo frame and fork combo. Looking at a mid September delivery window from my lbs. Wondering if anyone with that delivery timeframe has seen their bikes come earlier.
    I put a deposit down about a month ago on the frame/shock from a large Metal complete that had been ordered in May. Really hoping to see it soon, as I just received the fork for the build yesterday, which is the last piece I was waiting on--Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Coil--real stoked.

    The last update we got was mid-August and now I'm wondering if the fires in Santa Cruz will be a factor. I'm sure they're dealing with a lot right now.
    Commencal Meta TR 29 British Ed. // Commencal Absolut

  20. #3420
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Quick update on chasing creaks on this bike...

    Since around a month into riding this bike, I've been through various degrees of creak-chasing. Having had some temporary relief from fixing some usual culprits (free-hub play, cassette play, axle torque, pivot torques, pivot maintenance, etc...), I've still been trying to figure out the main issue causing my creak. Only happens when putting power down on climbs, and this has almost always been the case since about a month old.

    I read a "1000km XT 12spd" review, that mentioned two things that I've never ever included as a part of my bike maintenance, in all my 21 years of riding.
    1) A light greasing of the free-hub body before installing the cassette. I've always made sure to clean the body, and make sure it's torqued down tight, but never used grease.
    2) Lube the rivet pins on the pinned-together cassette, to prevent creaking in the future.

    So I did both of these in a "can't hurt, might help" moment, and damned if the bike didn't climb quieter than it ever has. My new bike, after 7 months, now actually sounds new. I have no doubt this will help some others out there.

    Edit: I have the stock HG-style free hub, and stock NX cassette, although I've upgraded to SLX mech. This may be important, as manufacturing processes and the freehub/cassette interface performance probably varies vastly between brands/models.
    I have recently had the same issue from what was previously a VERY quiet bike to ride. It also only happened under load. It can be difficult to find and I think part of that is the fact itís aluminium and the sounds seem to transfer through the frame a bit.
    I started with the steering head bearings and spacers. That didnít fix it. So I serviced the BB and cleaned and lubed it. I removed the derailleur hanger and cleaned and lubed it. I also redid all the Igus bushes in the rear triangle again. I cleaned and lubed the rear axle and re-torqued it. Just for reference I have a GX drivetrain and also cleaned and Re-lubed the derailleur and reinstalled it.
    I donít know which one fixed it but I have a whisper quiet bike again. Hopefully for a long time because I HATE squeaks and rattles in anything be it car, moto or MTB.

  21. #3421
    Unpredictable
    Reputation: Ridnparadise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,187
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    How is any of this even relevant the whole drivetrain is superfluous. You obviously donít need a chain ring let alone all that extra weight of 12 unnecessary gears hanging off the arse end and letís not even go down the road of suspension or a usable seat. Pfft itís all just bling for show offs.
    Zip tie technology would have been helpful to tie that chain in place though. He bought a new chainring so he can break a third one riding up a fire road.....

  22. #3422
    Unpredictable
    Reputation: Ridnparadise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,187
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    I have recently had the same issue from what was previously a VERY quiet bike to ride. It also only happened under load. It can be difficult to find and I think part of that is the fact itís aluminium and the sounds seem to transfer through the frame a bit.
    I started with the steering head bearings and spacers. That didnít fix it. So I serviced the BB and cleaned and lubed it. I removed the derailleur hanger and cleaned and lubed it. I also redid all the Igus bushes in the rear triangle again. I cleaned and lubed the rear axle and re-torqued it. Just for reference I have a GX drivetrain and also cleaned and Re-lubed the derailleur and reinstalled it.
    I donít know which one fixed it but I have a whisper quiet bike again. Hopefully for a long time because I HATE squeaks and rattles in anything be it car, moto or MTB.
    In another 10 years you won't notice it because of all the creaks in your body.....

  23. #3423
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85

    PNW Range bars and grips have landed.

    Time to spice the cockpit up a bit. I just got my PNW Range handlebars with matching Loam grips in their Fruit Snacks (purple) variety to go along with my One Up pedals. I ordered a purple Diety Copperhead to round out the theme.

    Just waiting on the 50mm Diety stem to ship and I'll be good to go. I am excited to see how the bars, grips, and additional stem length feel.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-20200826_145247.jpg  

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200826_145247.jpg  

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200826_145436.jpg  

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200826_150639.jpg  


  24. #3424
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337

    Ripmo AF Thread

    Ibisís Pork Chop bag came in!
    Itís got a sheen to it compared to the previous Pork Chops on the Mojos but overall I like it and looks much better then the slumped over tool bag from Wolftooth (now relegated to my Trek hard tail).

    No chance to test on trails but if itís anything like the previous pork chops, shouldnít be an issue with staying on.

    Overview


    View of side zipper and an idea of how much you can stuff in there. A tube, levers (not seen) and a co2. Still have more room to stick the pump and few energy bars if I want to.




    The clever rear bracket that keeps the bag in by utilizing the space in the shock mount and internal wire frame so you can go Strapless!



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  25. #3425
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Ibisís Pork Chop bag came in!
    Itís got a sheen to it compared to the previous Pork Chops on the Mojos but overall I like it and looks much better then the slumped over tool bag from Wolftooth (now relegated to my Trek hard tail).

    No chance to test on trails but if itís anything like the previous pork chops, shouldnít be an issue with staying on.

    Overview


    View of side zipper and an idea of how much you can stuff in there. A tube, levers (not seen) and a co2. Still have more room to stick the pump and few energy bars if I want to.




    The clever rear bracket that keeps the bag in by utilizing the space in the shock mount and internal wire frame so you can go Strapless!



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm not sure words can express my level of annoyance at the XL being excluded from the party, been hunting for a frame bag for awhile and this thing ticked all my boxes but no go for the tall ones

    Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk

  26. #3426
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by rajcoont View Post
    I'm not sure words can express my level of annoyance at the XL being excluded from the party, been hunting for a frame bag for awhile and this thing ticked all my boxes but no go for the tall ones
    I emailed Ibis about it, they said there was a 600 minimum order and the AF in XL needed its own design, others fit on multiple size or both carbon and AF. I was bummed too, looks perfect

  27. #3427
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by rajcoont View Post
    I'm not sure words can express my level of annoyance at the XL being excluded from the party, been hunting for a frame bag for awhile and this thing ticked all my boxes but no go for the tall ones

    Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk
    Man that sucks donkey ballz. I canít imagine why they canít just make the bag same size but the bracket longer.. potentially be a lot cheaper to make. Maybe it wonít work that way because overall it just wonít fit.

    At least they make the bikes in XL and not completely left you vertically gifted folks out cold.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  28. #3428
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Man that sucks donkey ballz. I canít imagine why they canít just make the bag same size but the bracket longer.. potentially be a lot cheaper to make. Maybe it wonít work that way because overall it just wonít fit.

    At least they make the bikes in XL and not completely left you vertically gifted folks out cold.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes it's definitely 1st world problems. I rode my XL this afternoon and not having a frame bag didn't stop me from hooting and hollering like a fool the whole ride, love this bike

    Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk

  29. #3429
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    70

    Dry DVO Diamond

    Count me among those who pulled the lowers and found little/no oil in the DVO Diamond on their Ripmo AF. In my case there was ~10ml in the damper side and nothing but suspension grease in the air side. Frustrating. Looking forward seeing how the fork performs with the correct amount of oil. I haven't been super impressed with the performance of the "dry" setup.
    Last edited by squak; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:24 PM.

  30. #3430
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kwapik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    542
    Quote Originally Posted by rajcoont View Post
    I'm not sure words can express my level of annoyance at the XL being excluded from the party, been hunting for a frame bag for awhile and this thing ticked all my boxes but no go for the tall ones
    Quote Originally Posted by jeff_er_why View Post
    I emailed Ibis about it, they said there was a 600 minimum order and the AF in XL needed its own design, others fit on multiple size or both carbon and AF. I was bummed too, looks perfect

    Have you thought about making the large model work on your XL. I think it's doable whether it's modifying the bracket or just adapting it in some way.

  31. #3431
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    Nice. Glad you got it sorted. The LBS that I bought my bike at dismissed my concern about the dry fork as a silly forum topic when I picked up the bike. Later, I brought it back for the included 30-day checkup. When I dropoed it off I said that I understood that dropping the fork lowers would be outside of their normal checkup. I said that I'd pay for the fork service. They called me back and said that they wouldn't do the service, "like we talked about" (in reference to our original purchase day conversation).

    I am dropping it off today at a much cooler LBS that didn't seem too fussed at a fork service job. I just wish the place I plan on servicing the fork sold Ibis. I would have preferred to support them instead.

  32. #3432
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by squak View Post
    Count me among those who pulled the lowers and found little/no oil in the DVO Diamond on their Ripmo AF. In my case there was ~10mm in the damper side and nothing but suspension grease in the air side. Frustrating. Looking forward seeing how the fork performs with the correct amount of oil. I haven't been super impressed with the performance of the "dry" setup.
    Check the bladder as well. If itís sucked in, like most have been that have been checked, you still wonít be impressed with the performance until you rectify that as well.

  33. #3433
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Check the bladder as well. If itís sucked in, like most have been that have been checked, you still wonít be impressed with the performance until you rectify that as well.
    Unfortunately I was short on time and didn't check the bladder. I did a biggish ride today and the fork felt much better.

  34. #3434
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by rajcoont View Post
    Yes it's definitely 1st world problems. I rode my XL this afternoon and not having a frame bag didn't stop me from hooting and hollering like a fool the whole ride, love this bike

    Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk
    Not just you. Agree itís such an awesome bike (value/fun factor) and I canít stop bitching about the weight.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  35. #3435
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Check the bladder as well. If itís sucked in, like most have been that have been checked, you still wonít be impressed with the performance until you rectify that as well.
    Any chance you have a link to this procedure? I did the lowers, they seemed pretty dry. I'll dig back in for the bladder if I should.

  36. #3436
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Any chance you have a link to this procedure? I did the lowers, they seemed pretty dry. I'll dig back in for the bladder if I should.
    Go to my profile and look at my previous posts. You will find a very detailed description of how to do it from start to finish.

  37. #3437
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    7

    DVO D1 rebound dial stuck after oil service

    Just curious if I am missing something stupid. I pulled both cartridges so any factory oil can run out, reassembled, dialed in OTT before adding some air, but noticed the Rebound dial won't move. Pull that cartridge again, made sure aligned, etc. same thing. It just wont spin at all.

  38. #3438
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kaymonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    I have recently had the same issue from what was previously a VERY quiet bike to ride. It also only happened under load. It can be difficult to find and I think part of that is the fact itís aluminium and the sounds seem to transfer through the frame a bit.
    I started with the steering head bearings and spacers. That didnít fix it. So I serviced the BB and cleaned and lubed it. I removed the derailleur hanger and cleaned and lubed it. I also redid all the Igus bushes in the rear triangle again. I cleaned and lubed the rear axle and re-torqued it. Just for reference I have a GX drivetrain and also cleaned and Re-lubed the derailleur and reinstalled it.
    I donít know which one fixed it but I have a whisper quiet bike again. Hopefully for a long time because I HATE squeaks and rattles in anything be it car, moto or MTB.
    Where the shock connects to the clevis was a major creak area for me. I wrapped the end of the shock in Teflon tape and it's silent now.Ripmo AF Thread-img_20200829_172948.jpg

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  39. #3439
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    122
    Quote Originally Posted by bonedale View Post
    Just curious if I am missing something stupid. I pulled both cartridges so any factory oil can run out, reassembled, dialed in OTT before adding some air, but noticed the Rebound dial won't move. Pull that cartridge again, made sure aligned, etc. same thing. It just wont spin at all.
    Happened to me as well. In the process of taking the knob or foot nut off I got the adjuster turned fully clockwise or counterclockwise and it was jammed that way. I didn't know which way to turn it to un-jam it and didn't want to break it. Ended up pulling it back apart and taking the bottom section of the damper apart. Was a pain but no permanent damage.

  40. #3440
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85

    Upgraded cockpit.

    Swapped out the 35mm Race Face bars and stem for 31.8mm PNW Range bars and PNW Loam grips in their "fruit snacks / purple" flavor. I decided to keep going with the theme to match my purple One Up pedals. I brought it all together with a Diety Copperhead 50mm stem in, you guessed it, purple. Its funny because I am more of a all black or close to it kind of person, so I'm spicing things up a bit.

    More importantly, my first impression are positive. The new combo of stem and bar geo feels nice. That and those PNW Loam grips have a super nice feel and plenty of grip. I tested them out a bit on some drop progressions.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-20200829_182257.jpg  

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200829_183655.jpg  

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200829_183704.jpg  

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200829_185457.jpg  


  41. #3441
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    144
    Quote Originally Posted by RyderRider View Post
    Swapped out the 35mm Race Face bars and stem for 31.8mm PNW Range bars and PNW Loam grips in their "fruit snacks / purple" flavor. I decided to keep going with the theme to match my purple One Up pedals. I brought it all together with a Diety Copperhead 50mm stem in, you guessed it, purple. Its funny because I am more of a all black or close to it kind of person, so I'm spicing things up a bit.

    More importantly, my first impression are positive. The new combo of stem and bar geo feels nice. That and those PNW Loam grips have a super nice feel and plenty of grip. I tested them out a bit on some drop progressions.
    Iím a purple fan too. Currently eyeballing a purple Salsa fat bike for the snow...

  42. #3442
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by XyesterdayX View Post
    Iím a purple fan too. Currently eyeballing a purple Salsa fat bike for the snow...
    Nice. That sounds fun. I've never tried one of those, but they look cool.

  43. #3443
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Go to my profile and look at my previous posts. You will find a very detailed description of how to do it from start to finish.
    This?

    https://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/ripmo-a...l#post14747505

  44. #3444
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by RyderRider View Post
    Swapped out the 35mm Race Face bars and stem for 31.8mm PNW Range bars and PNW Loam grips in their "fruit snacks / purple" flavor. I decided to keep going with the theme to match my purple One Up pedals. I brought it all together with a Diety Copperhead 50mm stem in, you guessed it, purple. Its funny because I am more of a all black or close to it kind of person, so I'm spicing things up a bit.

    More importantly, my first impression are positive. The new combo of stem and bar geo feels nice. That and those PNW Loam grips have a super nice feel and plenty of grip. I tested them out a bit on some drop progressions.
    Nice upsweep and back sweep profiles in those bars. Did these changes improve the pressure issue on your hands?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  45. #3445
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by KennyWatson View Post
    Happened to me as well. In the process of taking the knob or foot nut off I got the adjuster turned fully clockwise or counterclockwise and it was jammed that way. I didn't know which way to turn it to un-jam it and didn't want to break it. Ended up pulling it back apart and taking the bottom section of the damper apart. Was a pain but no permanent damage.
    Thanks, I'll do the same and hope for no damage as well. Not sure if I jammed it up through rotation, or tapping it to release the cartridge. But somehow I did mess up the most expensive part in a fork.

  46. #3446
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by kaymonster View Post
    Where the shock connects to the clevis was a major creak area for me. I wrapped the end of the shock in Teflon tape and it's silent now.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20200829_172948.jpg 
Views:	62 
Size:	50.5 KB 
ID:	1360651

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Funny you say that because yesterday on my second ride after going through most areas on the bike the noise came back. I actually said to my riding mate that it sounded like it was coming from there. Iíll look into it. Thanks.

  47. #3447
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    No thatís too early I only bought my bike April 20 so look at my posts from a week or two after that. Sorry I havenít got time to send a link right now I will try to do it later if you canít find them.

  48. #3448
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    No thatís too early I only bought my bike April 20 so look at my posts from a week or two after that. Sorry I havenít got time to send a link right now I will try to do it later if you canít find them.
    How about this one?
    https://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/ripmo-a...l#post14801529

  49. #3449
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337

    Ripmo AF Thread



    Tested on the trails. Works pretty good except now it is harder to reach down and select the Settings switch when on the go. The rear side of the bag blocks your fingers from getting to that switch quickly. You can still fanagle your way through and pushing the switch from Trail to Open is much easier than the other way.

    And depending on contents of the switch in Trail setting can ďstick outĒ into the bag. I find not following instructions to sit the bracket all the way thru the bag is better as it elevates the rear of the bag a little. Compared to the previous versions made by Blackburn, this one also feels a tad flimsier and not retain shape as well.

    If the previous PC bag on the Mojo HDs were 4/5. This one would be 3.5/5.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  50. #3450
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Start reading from post 2123 and the whole process from my very first lower drop on the Diamond right through to what oil mix I use will show up and bleeding the bladder will be there as well. Lots of reading so get comfy.

  51. #3451
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Start reading from post 2123 and the whole process from my very first lower drop on the Diamond right through to what oil mix I use will show up and bleeding the bladder will be there as well. Lots of reading so get comfy.
    Ok, so no actual procedure organized, got it.

    Quick questions:
    Can I just attack this from the top pulling the compression assembly and bladder?
    Will I have to bleed the fork to reassemble or can I just over fill with oil and stick the compression assembly back in?

  52. #3452
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Ok, so no actual procedure organized, got it.

    Quick questions:
    Can I just attack this from the top pulling the compression assembly and bladder?
    Will I have to bleed the fork to reassemble or can I just over fill with oil and stick the compression assembly back in?
    Yes the full procedure from start to finish is there in one of my posts I just donít have time to find the exact post number today. Yes you can just take the bladder out from the top after you remove the lowers. You will need some tools and need to know the bleed procedure to reassemble it though.
    If you just click on my user name a little tab will pop up where you can choose view forum posts. Just start reading them just after the date I gave you and you will find the info much quicker than reading every post on the forum.

  53. #3453
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    65
    I was doing an air service on the Topaz and decided to throw some green parts into a rust remover, for more raw look. What do you think?

  54. #3454
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    124
    How is water bottle clearance for those running coils? I have an XL frame with a fox dhx2 and can barely squeeze a small bottle into a side load cage. I was going to check fit with an air shock but I doubt it makes that big of a difference. I really want to be able to run a full 26oz water bottle. Wondering too if shock placement is lower on these XL frames and its limiting

  55. #3455
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeast View Post
    How is water bottle clearance for those running coils? I have an XL frame with a fox dhx2 and can barely squeeze a small bottle into a side load cage. I was going to check fit with an air shock but I doubt it makes that big of a difference. I really want to be able to run a full 26oz water bottle. Wondering too if shock placement is lower on these XL frames and its limiting
    L frame w coil. Same, no dice for larger bottles.

    The problem as you already realized is those damn cable exits. You can try to get a B-RAD system from Wolftooth to shift the bottle holder mounts down but again, the damn cables are in the way.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  56. #3456
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Yes the full procedure from start to finish is there in one of my posts I just donít have time to find the exact post number today. Yes you can just take the bladder out from the top after you remove the lowers. You will need some tools and need to know the bleed procedure to reassemble it though.
    If you just click on my user name a little tab will pop up where you can choose view forum posts. Just start reading them just after the date I gave you and you will find the info much quicker than reading every post on the forum.
    Is there a reason the lowers have to be removed? I literally just did the lower oil service before seeing all of this info about the possible bladder issues.

    ac

  57. #3457
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,217
    OK - so that's an AWESOME look - was your exact process or product??

    Of course I accessorized mine w green bits (grips, stems, saddle) to tie things together in green but that does looks awesome!!

  58. #3458
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    OK - so that's an AWESOME look - was your exact process or product??

    Of course I accessorized mine w green bits (grips, stems, saddle) to tie things together in green but that does looks awesome!!
    I put some "Whink Rust Stain Remover" into a small glass container and put the parts in for couple of minutes. Parts need to be submerged and don't keep them long. It has hydrofluoric acid, so other products with it may work too.

    I built from a frame and green unfortunately green doesn't match with existing parts.

  59. #3459
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    209
    Anyone with the new onyx spec seeing the dry lowers issue?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  60. #3460
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Quick update on chasing creaks on this bike...


    I read a "1000km XT 12spd" review, that mentioned two things that I've never ever included as a part of my bike maintenance, in all my 21 years of riding.
    1) A light greasing of the free-hub body before installing the cassette. I've always made sure to clean the body, and make sure it's torqued down tight, but never used grease.
    2) Lube the rivet pins on the pinned-together cassette, to prevent creaking in the future.
    Thanks for posting. I am going to re-lube headset and this area tonight. Just relubed cranks and bb without success. I was about to order new pivot bearings, but at 500 miles really do not feel I should have to do that yet.....

  61. #3461
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Is there a reason the lowers have to be removed? I literally just did the lower oil service before seeing all of this info about the possible bladder issues.

    ac
    Just so you can cycle the damper shaft during the bleeding process I canít say whether or not the damper shaft can be bottomed out during bleeding with the lowers on which needs to happen for a proper bleed. My guess would be no because I canít imagine that the limiting factor for bottom out resistance inside the fork would be the damper shaft that would surely cause damage and for easier clean up at the end because when you bleed the damper you will end up with oil all over the lowers as well.

  62. #3462
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    384
    I am starting to notice the rear frame or wheel flexing now that Iím pushing the RAF harder. Anyone that has gone from aluminum S35 rims to carbon, has it made the rear end stiffer? Contemplating whether a carbon frame or carbon wheel will help more as Iíve never ridden either one.

  63. #3463
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Just so you can cycle the damper shaft during the bleeding process I canít say whether or not the damper shaft can be bottomed out during bleeding with the lowers on which needs to happen for a proper bleed. My guess would be no because I canít imagine that the limiting factor for bottom out resistance inside the fork would be the damper shaft that would surely cause damage and for easier clean up at the end because when you bleed the damper you will end up with oil all over the lowers as well.
    Good call. No, the bottom out limit is definitely the bumper on the air side.

    Time to pull it all apart again! lol

  64. #3464
    San Miguel Beer Drinker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    333


    I had this deuter front triangle bag for a year now, just taking up space in my cabinet so i tried it out. Fits ok, but theres some contact with the piggyback.

    Costs half of the porkchop bag though.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  65. #3465
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by ben_mtb View Post
    I was doing an air service on the Topaz and decided to throw some green parts into a rust remover, for more raw look. What do you think?
    looks awesome. thanks for sharing- my green on jadex looks out of place on my ride, might be giving this a try someday.

  66. #3466
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by IstongKowldPaRin View Post


    I had this deuter front triangle bag for a year now, just taking up space in my cabinet so i tried it out. Fits ok, but theres some contact with the piggyback.

    Costs half of the porkchop bag though.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Looks good. I have been using the Blackburn Design Outpost Corner Bag.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-img_20200712_132819.jpg  


  67. #3467
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Looks good. I have been using the Blackburn Design Outpost Corner Bag.
    i'm also using the blackburn bag. on my XL frame i can flip it the other way and have the longest 'edge' on the down tube. ends up giving plenty of room for shock adjust. works great, .....if you can tolerate zipper being on bottom.

  68. #3468
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I am starting to notice the rear frame or wheel flexing now that Iím pushing the RAF harder. Anyone that has gone from aluminum S35 rims to carbon, has it made the rear end stiffer? Contemplating whether a carbon frame or carbon wheel will help more as Iíve never ridden either one.
    You've probably done this but I'd add that I have found paying attention to spoke tension helpful. Sometimes wheels loosen up over time, esp w/ hard riding.

    Not sure if it is the carbon or the spoke tension but I've also read that carbon rims vary a lot in terms of stiffness so can be too stiff, too soft or just right.

    I recently got a tire pressure meter that helps for dialing in consistent tire pressure so I can better isolate what changes in bike feel are due to what changes.

  69. #3469
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,217
    make sure you check then hub for play - if its Ibis - they are know to develop some slop - I've had it happen. In one instance the bearings needed replace - the other seems the end caps simply loosened... a loose hub can really give the impression "something is wrong" and the first place I tend to turn is pivots when that feeling has emerged.

  70. #3470
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    make sure you check then hub for play - if its Ibis - they are know to develop some slop - I've had it happen. In one instance the bearings needed replace - the other seems the end caps simply loosened... a loose hub can really give the impression "something is wrong" and the first place I tend to turn is pivots when that feeling has emerged.
    Me too. My end cap on the drive side came loose in the first couple months of riding the RAF. Cleaned up the threads, added some loctite, then finger tightened, and it hasn't been an issue since.

  71. #3471
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Funny you say that because yesterday on my second ride after going through most areas on the bike the noise came back. I actually said to my riding mate that it sounded like it was coming from there. Iíll look into it. Thanks.
    Not sure if this matters but their manual states to use copper anti-seize on that bolt. I have and with no noise of any kind.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  72. #3472
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I am starting to notice the rear frame or wheel flexing now that Iím pushing the RAF harder. Anyone that has gone from aluminum S35 rims to carbon, has it made the rear end stiffer? Contemplating whether a carbon frame or carbon wheel will help more as Iíve never ridden either one.
    Like others have said, check the hub and spokes. Some carbon rims are certainly stiffer. I hear some can even be too stiff. Read that about some Reynolds. Also, if you look at these frames, any difference in frame flex between the carbon and alloy model would be in the rear triangle. The front triangle is beefy and really has no place to flex based on the size of the tubing and location of the pivots. I would be interested to know if a V2 carbon rear triangle would fit on the back of an AF though. You might get some stiffness improvements there.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  73. #3473
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    The front triangle is beefy and really has no place to flex based on the size of the tubing and location of the pivots. I would be interested to know if a V2 carbon rear triangle would fit on the back of an AF though. You might get some stiffness improvements there.
    In addition to the rear triangle, I'm willing to bet there is a bit of added flex from the seat tube and pivot boss area. That junction would likely be stiffer with the smoother transitions and carbon material, for those shapes.

  74. #3474
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    In addition to the rear triangle, I'm willing to bet there is a bit of added flex from the seat tube and pivot boss area. That junction would likely be stiffer with the smoother transitions and carbon material, for those shapes.
    I'm no materials engineer but do have quite a bit of welding and fabrication experience and bosses welded directly to a tube of that size likely have no detectable flex under normal loading. The bosses are too short and attached along their full width. To flex those bosses, you'd have to distort the shape of the tube it attaches to as well. No easy feat and if you did distort the mount and seat stay, you likely had the most gnarly crash of all time! The chain stays however, being long and narrow are probably the most flex prone portion to any frame. It can even been flexed on most bikes on a stand.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  75. #3475
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Not sure if this matters but their manual states to use copper anti-seize on that bolt. I have and with no noise of any kind.
    I used copper anti-seize on it. There was no noise up until recently. Not 100% verified yet but it appears to be coming from the crank on the left side. Thatís around the area where the sound seemed to be coming from too. Iíve literally been through every other thing on the bike. The mechanic at the LBS rode the bike yesterday and did some tests on it and couldnít find anything wrong with any other part of the bike and said if we verify that it is from there it will be replaced under warranty. He said itís an interference fit and should not move or make any noise. He told me to lay the bike on it side and put a thin penetrating lubricant on it and let it soak in for a while. If the noise goes away, which so far it has, and then comes back again then warranty. Time will tell
    By the way itís also the first time he had ridden an RAF said it felt really good and very playful and also said my suspension felt beautiful. It was kind of nice to hear that from someone who works at a place that doesnít even sell Ibis and rides tonnes of different bikes.

  76. #3476
    Unpredictable
    Reputation: Ridnparadise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,187
    Something not tech:

    We ran into a swarm of riders yesterday at a trail intersection. A school group on one trail and a group of 20 somethings on another all coming at us 3 misfits (2 single speeders, one fully rigid, another hardtail and me on RAF). COVID issues dealt with "what's that bike?" was thrown at a teacher in the school group. Extremely proud; "Ibis Ripmo" was the answer with big smiles.

    "Similar" I said and he looked at my RAF. Smile melted and this sort of sad look replaced it. "How's it ride?"

    We all know thew answer to that. Poor cousin had a win I think.

  77. #3477
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    114
    Has anyone experienced what feels like a dead spot in the rear suspension?

    Ive tried 4 different sets of tires of varying manufacturers and casings, 2 different wheels (stock alum and SC carbon), 2 different inserts (cushcore and airliner), no inserts, Jade X, DPx2 from a carbon ripmo. so i am pretty confident it is the bike at this point. I have also take the linkages apart and lubed and torque everything. i have checked the tightness of the hubs but that wouldnt matter when i tried another rear wheel. It has felt like this since day 1 and am at maybe 50 hours of so on the bike.

    When i land to flat, are in chattery terrain, or even just do rear wheel lifts, the back end has a feeling of 2 impacts. Like it moves a little at one rate, then spikes up and is consistent after that for the rest of the stroke. The best way i can describe is is if you had a loose insert and it was flopping around in the tire. It is very distracting because it feels like something is going to fall apart and happens exactly when you dont want to be distracted.

  78. #3478
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I am starting to notice the rear frame or wheel flexing now that Iím pushing the RAF harder. Anyone that has gone from aluminum S35 rims to carbon, has it made the rear end stiffer? Contemplating whether a carbon frame or carbon wheel will help more as Iíve never ridden either one.
    Last night I took a buddys spare set of Santa Cruz reserve 30s with the same size assagai on the front and a dissector on the rear and i did not like what the added wheel stiffness did to the bike. I am still pinpointing wheather it was the 5mm difference (definately on lean angle) or the stiffness but it felt like the bike was getting bounced laterally constantly. I had to choose lines so much more carefully then just plowing through like normal. It realy messed with my head since i was planning on building some wheels soon.

  79. #3479
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    384
    Turns out the noise and extra flex in the rear end was likely caused by these 2 bolts loosening up. Couldnít get my torque wrench in there but pulled them both out, added blue Loctite and tightened them back up. No more noise and the rear end def feels tighter.


  80. #3480
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Turns out the noise and extra flex in the rear end was likely caused by these 2 bolts loosening up. Couldnít get my torque wrench in there but pulled them both out, added blue Loctite and tightened them back up. No more noise and the rear end def feels tighter.

    Nice job isolating and thanks for the share. Better check mine.

    Love this forum. Itís like your instant Tech Service Bulletin Alert. Very effective.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  81. #3481
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    Has anyone experienced what feels like a dead spot in the rear suspension?
    No from what you describe, I've never experienced that feeling on-trail, in 7 months of riding the bike. I could only suggest making sure the linkage isn't too tight. When you cycle the linkage without a shock installed, it almost feels like a 2-stage movement, and if some of your linkage pivots are too tight, it could lead to a notchy transition when the DW is doing it's thing. That's all I can think of. As soon as I added volume spacers to my Topaz, I've had zero complaints about rear travel or behavior in the back end.

  82. #3482
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    No from what you describe, I've never experienced that feeling on-trail, in 7 months of riding the bike. I could only suggest making sure the linkage isn't too tight. When you cycle the linkage without a shock installed, it almost feels like a 2-stage movement, and if some of your linkage pivots are too tight, it could lead to a notchy transition when the DW is doing it's thing. That's all I can think of. As soon as I added volume spacers to my Topaz, I've had zero complaints about rear travel or behavior in the back end.
    All pivot bolts have been removed, cleaned, greased, and torque.

    But now that you mention it, it does feel like a version of cycling without the shock. The weird part is that i dont feel it when bouncing around and NOT leaving the ground.

  83. #3483
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    All pivot bolts have been removed, cleaned, greased, and torque.

    But now that you mention it, it does feel like a version of cycling without the shock. The weird part is that i dont feel it when bouncing around and NOT leaving the ground.
    Interesting. I'm not suggesting there isn't something wrong going on with your bike, but for further interest sake, is this your first dual-link bike? I remember first riding my '09 Reign (my first ever dual-link), and it felt like the rear triangle was swinging up first and then away, when really moving through chunky terrain. At least that's how it felt, and it was really weird at first. I eventually got used to it, and really liked how it worked, and went on to eventually own a couple Trances after that.

  84. #3484
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Interesting. I'm not suggesting there isn't something wrong going on with your bike, but for further interest sake, is this your first dual-link bike? I remember first riding my '09 Reign (my first ever dual-link), and it felt like the rear triangle was swinging up first and then away, when really moving through chunky terrain. At least that's how it felt, and it was really weird at first. I eventually got used to it, and really liked how it worked, and went on to eventually own a couple Trances after that.
    Since i got back into riding 2 years ago i have had a 2014 scott spark, 2014 Spesh Enduro, 2015 Spesh Stumpy, and i race for a local Trek team so i have been on most of their range at some point.

  85. #3485
    Unpredictable
    Reputation: Ridnparadise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,187
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    When you cycle the linkage without a shock installed, it almost feels like a 2-stage movement, and if some of your linkage pivots are too tight, it could lead to a notchy transition when the DW is doing it's thing.
    You don't feel that when riding because the initial resistance is within the range of sag, but it makes sense you may feel it when the wheel leaves the ground and the linkage reaches full extension.

  86. #3486
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    8

    Advice given delays...

    I've been researching my next bike obsessively for months, and finally busted out the credit card to put in an order for a RAF, despite the B2B site showing shipping dates of March 2021 (I can wait).

    The LBS would not even take my order or let me make a deposit given Ibis's supply issues - and advised me to "watch our social media" for when bikes become available, which just kinda pisses me off with them, on top of a handful of other questionably mediocre experiences.

    What would you all do? Place an order with Fanatik or another online retailer?

    I'd like a bike sometime in March-April, which I assume puts me at buying something in Jan-early Feb. Other thoughts are to consider the La Sal Peak or GG Smash, but I really think the RAF suits my needs better than those...

  87. #3487
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by GFab View Post
    I've been researching my next bike obsessively for months, and finally busted out the credit card to put in an order for a RAF, despite the B2B site showing shipping dates of March 2021 (I can wait).

    The LBS would not even take my order or let me make a deposit given Ibis's supply issues - and advised me to "watch our social media" for when bikes become available, which just kinda pisses me off with them, on top of a handful of other questionably mediocre experiences.

    What would you all do? Place an order with Fanatik or another online retailer?

    I'd like a bike sometime in March-April, which I assume puts me at buying something in Jan-early Feb. Other thoughts are to consider the La Sal Peak or GG Smash, but I really think the RAF suits my needs better than those...
    I would say start calling other LBS's to see if they have any already on order that are not spoken for. This is the route I went back in June. Supply issue are a bitch all across the board. I imagine you could place an order today with the hopes that it will show up when they project. There us no guarantee that that's when it'll show up though.

    If you really want a RAF, and you are able to purchase right now, I'd keep expanding your search till you find a shop with one in house, or expected to arrive soon within an acceptable date. Also, if you put a deposit down on a soon-to-be delivered bike, make sure that in the event of the bike not showing up, you can get your deposit back hassle free.

    I was prepared to take a road trip to find my RAF. But my backup plan was to either order or or go with a Santa Cruz Hightower AL. I think in times like these, it may pay to be a bit flexible. That doesn't mean you need to settle though. Get what you want.

  88. #3488
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,217
    What Ryder states - expand out a bit if you really want to get what you want to get. There are shops w bikes in now or coming soon... it may seem like a "needle in a haystack" proposition but they are out there.

    Not sure what size you need - BUT - BC/Comp Cy has a 2021 V2 Carbon Deore kit w DVO... yes its 1200 more than a RAF but it IS 2 pounds lighter... star destroyer grey in a large - showing in stock. They have a frame only RAF in Med in stock as well... IF you can become a club member - 10% back in store credit on future purchases

  89. #3489
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post

    Not sure what size you need - BUT - BC/Comp Cy has a 2021 V2 Carbon Deore kit w DVO... yes its 1200 more than a RAF but it IS 2 pounds lighter... star destroyer grey in a large - showing in stock. They have a frame only RAF in Med in stock as well... IF you can become a club member - 10% back in store credit on future purchases
    Thanks for the encouragement all! I was pretty miffed with the LBS earlier, but I'm going to take your advice and keep looking.

    I am looking for a size XL, and would buy a blue V2 if it were available in Deore, but am more comfortable sub-$4k.



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  90. #3490
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by GFab View Post
    Thanks for the encouragement all! I was pretty miffed with the LBS earlier, but I'm going to take your advice and keep looking.

    I am looking for a size XL, and would buy a blue V2 if it were available in Deore, but am more comfortable sub-$4k.



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Right on. I say get what you want and are comfortable spending. You didn't mention where you live, but I can keep an eye open for an XL RAF in the greater Seattle area. I think I will get my next bike from a LBS down in Oregon. This way I can put the 10% sales tax towards buying 10% more bike. LOL.

  91. #3491
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CrozCountry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,568
    The new kit is such a sick deal. When I was shopping there was no Deore kit. I replaced everything with Shimano 12S myself (brakes, drivetrain). You can also get schwalbe tires for no extra charge. The Deore kit as is does not really need any upgrades, except for longer dropper post.

    The Ibis branded stuff is excellent, handlebars, stem, wheels. No reason to replace anything unless you are a weight weenie or drive into the garage with the bike on the roof.

  92. #3492
    San Miguel Beer Drinker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    333


    Really loving my RAF.
    Best ever FS bike I've owned.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  93. #3493
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    8
    Massive shout-out to Shaun at N+1 Bikes. Anyone needing an AF, give him a shout - he has a great channel being one of the top Ibis dealers. Very easy to work with!

    Psyched to be getting my AF way before the B2B site estimate of March (like by 4-5 months!). And thanks to Kamper11 for the referral -- much appreciated!



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  94. #3494
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    11
    Sorry if this is a repeat of anything thats been gone over before - but is anyone having any issues with their rear wheel hitting their seat? I took my AF out to the park for the first time this weekend and am having this issue pretty badly. Definitely keeping me from getting to the end of the travel as the o-ring on my shock isn't bottomed and I can feel my tire hitting my seat pretty hard. I have the seat just about as far up as it'll go on the rails and about an inch of insertion left on the dropper.

  95. #3495
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    384
    RAF likes to get rowdy. Swapped on a 35mm Diety stem. Also looking at having the frame stripped and polished or stripped and powdercoated chrome Itís gonna hurt so many eyes but I donít care lol


  96. #3496
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by bonedale View Post
    Thanks, I'll do the same and hope for no damage as well. Not sure if I jammed it up through rotation, or tapping it to release the cartridge. But somehow I did mess up the most expensive part in a fork.
    Hopefully you got it sorted out, but the same thing happened to me as well. Found out after the fact that the rebound shaft can bind up when tightening the foot nut. Need to make sure rebound shaft rotates freely before putting final torque down on foot nut.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  97. #3497
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    RAF likes to get rowdy. Swapped on a 35mm Diety stem. Also looking at having the frame stripped and polished or stripped and powdercoated chrome Itís gonna hurt so many eyes but I donít care lol

    DO IT~!!

    But a raw aluminum look is also nice. Reminded me of the 2018 Guerrilla Gravity Smash before they went Carbon.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  98. #3498
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    122
    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    Sorry if this is a repeat of anything thats been gone over before - but is anyone having any issues with their rear wheel hitting their seat? I took my AF out to the park for the first time this weekend and am having this issue pretty badly. Definitely keeping me from getting to the end of the travel as the o-ring on my shock isn't bottomed and I can feel my tire hitting my seat pretty hard. I have the seat just about as far up as it'll go on the rails and about an inch of insertion left on the dropper.
    I tested this on my large frame and confirmed it's not physically possible. Maybe on smaller sizes though...

    Let the air out if the shock and fully compress the suspension, and see what's up.

  99. #3499
    San Miguel Beer Drinker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    Sorry if this is a repeat of anything thats been gone over before - but is anyone having any issues with their rear wheel hitting their seat? I took my AF out to the park for the first time this weekend and am having this issue pretty badly. Definitely keeping me from getting to the end of the travel as the o-ring on my shock isn't bottomed and I can feel my tire hitting my seat pretty hard. I have the seat just about as far up as it'll go on the rails and about an inch of insertion left on the dropper.

    Maybe a saddle like this will help


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  100. #3500
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    RAF likes to get rowdy. Swapped on a 35mm Diety stem. Also looking at having the frame stripped and polished or stripped and powdercoated chrome Itís gonna hurt so many eyes but I donít care lol

    That sounds cool! My other bike is an old 1995 GT Avalanche in the ball burnished finish. I would love to have a BB finish on my RAF. I look forward to seeing what you decide to go with.

  101. #3501
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    111
    Anybody know of an XL for sale? Preferably leaning towards the deore kit
    2019 Trek Farley 9.6
    2018 Trek Stache7
    2017 Hightower S+
    2016 Superfly 9.6

  102. #3502
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MUSTCLIME's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by Gendy View Post
    Anybody know of an XL for sale? Preferably leaning towards the deore kit
    Henson USA has it listed but I do not know if itís really in stock....
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  103. #3503
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by IstongKowldPaRin View Post

    Maybe a saddle like this will help


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Noticed the same thing on my bikes. It seems to be the trend. Same on HD4, Ripley and even other brands - pivot switchblades.

    Question is - why provide such low seat tube if you can never slam the dropper post all the way even if it fits.
    Tire will hit the seat big time. High tail seat will not help much - may be 2-3 mm. We are talking 2-3 inches.
    If you look at all the pics of bikes listed - everyone has droppers 2-3 inches above collar - Why design it this way?

  104. #3504
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by Ilyam3 View Post
    Noticed the same thing on my bikes. It seems to be the trend. Same on HD4, Ripley and even other brands - pivot switchblades.

    Question is - why provide such low seat tube if you can never slam the dropper post all the way even if it fits.
    Tire will hit the seat big time. High tail seat will not help much - may be 2-3 mm. We are talking 2-3 inches.
    If you look at all the pics of bikes listed - everyone has droppers 2-3 inches above collar - Why design it this way?
    My tire is hitting the seat big time. Quite annoying. I dont even have my post slammed all the way.

    The size chart for a medium frame starts at 5'4 - so they have to expect some people would need the post slammed in order to make the bike fit right. I wouldnt mind so much if it hit at bottomout but the fact that the seat is whats physically limiting me from using all my travel is quite frustrating... and the noise it makes everyone on the mountain can practically hear.

  105. #3505
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    My tire is hitting the seat big time. Quite annoying. I dont even have my post slammed all the way.

    The size chart for a medium frame starts at 5'4 - so they have to expect some people would need the post slammed in order to make the bike fit right. I wouldnt mind so much if it hit at bottomout but the fact that the seat is whats physically limiting me from using all my travel is quite frustrating... and the noise it makes everyone on the mountain can practically hear.
    It is what it is at this point right. What's the problem you have if you raise the post enough so you can fully compress your suspension, besides it not being slammed and you losing some body clearance when dropped? It is what it is and the only way around it is to have a different frame but I suspect most bikes with similar travel and top tube height have this issue. Most of us ride with them up some. My post is even further up since I have a 160mm on a large.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-20200105_102306.jpg  

    2020 Ripmo AF

  106. #3506
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    It is what it is at this point right. What's the problem you have if you raise the post enough so you can fully compress your suspension, besides it not being slammed and you losing some body clearance when dropped? It is what it is and the only way around it is to have a different frame but I suspect most bikes with similar travel and top tube height have this issue. Most of us ride with them up some. My post is even further up since I have a 160mm on a large.
    Yeah for sure. Love the green lowers btw

    Its just annoying to me to have to raise it up because then when the post is extended its way too high to pedal. I race enduro and cant be raising and dropping my seat at the collar mid stage. Going to have to look into different saddle options.

  107. #3507
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CrozCountry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,568
    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    Yeah for sure. Love the green lowers btw

    Its just annoying to me to have to raise it up because then when the post is extended its way too high to pedal. I race enduro and cant be raising and dropping my seat at the collar mid stage. Going to have to look into different saddle options.
    You can also look into one of the dropper posts which allows you to fine tune the travel using spacers. You can get it perfect on both sides (up and down).

  108. #3508
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Oneupís dropper allows you to adjust the travel so it doesnít slam all the way down.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  109. #3509
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    Yeah for sure. Love the green lowers btw

    Its just annoying to me to have to raise it up because then when the post is extended its way too high to pedal. I race enduro and cant be raising and dropping my seat at the collar mid stage. Going to have to look into different saddle options.
    Thanks man. I like the green too. I thought it was obnoxious at first but now I love it, especially when it's clean. The green is metallic and the frame can polish up too when waxed (haven't done it yet though).

    Adjustable height would be great or careful selection of the ideal stock dropper length. I could for sure use a 185 but not sure about a 210. How long is your dropper and what size frame?
    2020 Ripmo AF

  110. #3510
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    384
    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Thanks man. I like the green too. I thought it was obnoxious at first but now I love it, especially when it's clean. The green is metallic and the frame can polish up too when waxed (haven't done it yet though).

    Adjustable height would be great or careful selection of the ideal stock dropper length. I could for sure use a 185 but not sure about a 210. How long is your dropper and what size frame?
    Ya the green is rad. Iím either going to find a green Onyx fork or buy a lime green I9 Hydra front hub to match the rear. Whatever comes first haha

    As for dropper lengths and seat to tire clearances, Iím 6í on a large with a 185 Bike Yoke and am literally at the max on both ends. Any lower I move the seat down and my tire will hit it, any higher and my legs will be too stretched out, I *might* have 5mm to play with but it is where it is. Also look at sliding your seat forward too if you feel you can lose a little reach, worth experimenting!

  111. #3511
    mtbr member
    Reputation: fitnating's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by fitnating View Post
    Anyone on here waiting for their Ripmo AF's? Im a month in on a Metal XL Ripmo frame and fork combo. Looking at a mid September delivery window from my lbs. Wondering if anyone with that delivery timeframe has seen their bikes come earlier.
    Following up here on my experience. Checked in with my lbs this week and was told my Ripmo AF was delayed until mid November. However shop did happen to have a blue v2 frameset that was not spoken for, so I will be going with that model.

  112. #3512
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    8
    Congrats! That blue V2 is a beautiful bike

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  113. #3513
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    15

    Diamond

    Hey fellas, wondering if someone might have some insight on an issue I'm having with the DVO Diamond on my wife's Ripmo AF.

    It seemed to be working fine initially, although a bit stiff, she was not using full travel on some pretty big descents (including a park day).

    So after reading about the oil issues, I pulled the lowers (have done this on my Pike's before) and checked the oil. It didn't seem like much came out, so I refilled the lowers to spec and put everything back together.

    It may have felt slightly better, but now there was a weird sucking/squishing sound and I am not getting full travel. (Not sure if the fill travel was an issue before the service).

    I took it apart again to make sure I didn't compress them too much or something last time and still the same issue. Not full travel and weird sound.

    If I pump it to 170 then I get the correct travel. Any suggestions before I send the fork to DVO would be appreciated.

  114. #3514
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    192
    Quote Originally Posted by munk1e View Post
    Hey fellas, wondering if someone might have some insight on an issue I'm having with the DVO Diamond on my wife's Ripmo AF.

    It seemed to be working fine initially, although a bit stiff, she was not using full travel on some pretty big descents (including a park day).

    So after reading about the oil issues, I pulled the lowers (have done this on my Pike's before) and checked the oil. It didn't seem like much came out, so I refilled the lowers to spec and put everything back together.

    It may have felt slightly better, but now there was a weird sucking/squishing sound and I am not getting full travel. (Not sure if the fill travel was an issue before the service).

    I took it apart again to make sure I didn't compress them too much or something last time and still the same issue. Not full travel and weird sound.

    If I pump it to 170 then I get the correct travel. Any suggestions before I send the fork to DVO would be appreciated.
    I would recommend following the guide on the manual .. use the recommend pressures and setup on ott and lsc HSC and rebound .. I'm find 170 psi very high.. I use 120 and I weight 90kg

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  115. #3515
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    I would recommend following the guide on the manual .. use the recommend pressures and setup on ott and lsc HSC and rebound .. I'm find 170 psi very high.. I use 120 and I weight 90kg

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sorry if that was unclear. For her weight I was running it at 90PSI.

    The 170 PSI comment was referring to that being the only way I can get full travel on the fork. Something is sucking the fork down and I'm not sure how to "fix" it.

  116. #3516
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by munk1e View Post
    Sorry if that was unclear. For her weight I was running it at 90PSI.

    The 170 PSI comment was referring to that being the only way I can get full travel on the fork. Something is sucking the fork down and I'm not sure how to "fix" it.
    Have you tried decreasing the amount of OTT? If the OTT is dialed to a disproportionate amount for the air spring pressure, it will suck the travel down. A lighter rider should require less OTT to accompany their lower air spring pressure.

    This is all I can think of. When I first depressurized my fork, it sunk down a couple of inches, since it's a fixed coil spring that affects the first few inches of travel (set my the OTT dial). I've heard others talking about ride height not being high enough when their OTT was too cranked.

  117. #3517
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    192
    Quote Originally Posted by munk1e View Post
    Sorry if that was unclear. For her weight I was running it at 90PSI.

    The 170 PSI comment was referring to that being the only way I can get full travel on the fork. Something is sucking the fork down and I'm not sure how to "fix" it.
    Ok, for sucking down.. check ott
    Remove all air, open the ott all way back.
    Below the most recent setup guide for the diamond

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  118. #3518
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Ok, for sucking down.. check ott
    Remove all air, open the ott all way back.
    Below the most recent setup guide for the diamond

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the responses guys. Everything is as it should. OTT open, using basic settings for the appropriate weight.

    I did let out all the air, closed OTT all the way and opened it back up and I seem to have gotten some of the travel back, but I'm still getting this honking sound within the first few MM of travel. Made a video, sorry the sound is low. I do the honking sound, some full pushes and then a few more of the honks.

    https://youtu.be/JLWF5POjrXw

  119. #3519
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Thanks man. I like the green too. I thought it was obnoxious at first but now I love it, especially when it's clean. The green is metallic and the frame can polish up too when waxed (haven't done it yet though).

    Adjustable height would be great or careful selection of the ideal stock dropper length. I could for sure use a 185 but not sure about a 210. How long is your dropper and what size frame?
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Ya the green is rad. Iím either going to find a green Onyx fork or buy a lime green I9 Hydra front hub to match the rear. Whatever comes first haha

    As for dropper lengths and seat to tire clearances, Iím 6í on a large with a 185 Bike Yoke and am literally at the max on both ends. Any lower I move the seat down and my tire will hit it, any higher and my legs will be too stretched out, I *might* have 5mm to play with but it is where it is. Also look at sliding your seat forward too if you feel you can lose a little reach, worth experimenting!

    I'm on a medium frame with a 150mil dropper. I'm about 5'7 - seat all the forward on the rails didnt work for me and any higher my legs are too stretched.

    I found a site online that had old overstock of the wtb hightail and just ordered one of those. Hopefully that will do the trick. SDG has some options with a cut back also.

  120. #3520
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    I'm on a medium frame with a 150mil dropper. I'm about 5'7 - seat all the forward on the rails didnt work for me and any higher my legs are too stretched.

    I found a site online that had old overstock of the wtb hightail and just ordered one of those. Hopefully that will do the trick. SDG has some options with a cut back also.
    not the most elegant solution, but externally limiting dropper post travel is also an option
    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...ucts/valais-25

  121. #3521
    San Miguel Beer Drinker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    333


    Just out of curiosity, I let all the air out of my rear shock to check if there will be contact with my saddle and tire.

    Looks like im safe.

    Thats how i normally set up mine. I had the saddle forward to emulate the seat angle that i had on my hardtail (77deg).

    Large frame with 185dropper. Wtb valcon saddle.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  122. #3522
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by IstongKowldPaRin View Post


    Just out of curiosity, I let all the air out of my rear shock to check if there will be contact with my saddle and tire.

    Looks like im safe.

    Thats how i normally set up mine. I had the saddle forward to emulate the seat angle that i had on my hardtail (77deg).

    Large frame with 185dropper. Wtb valcon saddle.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I guess its more so a problem with the smaller frames. When i let the air out of mine i was surprised that bottomout doesnt push the o ring down the shaft farther. I would have thought it was all the way at the bottom like other shocks ive owned.

  123. #3523
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    When i let the air out of mine i was surprised that bottomout doesnt push the o ring down the shaft farther. I would have thought it was all the way at the bottom like other shocks ive owned.
    The shock is 55mm stroke, but to fit the layout of the bike, the shaft is longer than that. A fair number of people on these forums think they aren't getting full travel, until they measure where the ring ends up.

  124. #3524
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    The shock is 55mm stroke, but to fit the layout of the bike, the shaft is longer than that. A fair number of people on these forums think they aren't getting full travel, until they measure where the ring ends up.
    I tip my hat to you sir

  125. #3525
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,217
    Some Ripmo musings/experinces on a gloomy Friday:

    I stand by previous posts - this bike is the real deal. Nothing it can't do. Even running a deep sag, its efficient and climbs very well. Downhill - it can dance and plow all at the same time.

    My personal favorite setup right now is to run the topaz well into the 30-32% sag. It was mentioned earlier by another rider that may have spoke direct to DVO stated 18mm and as fast a rebound as comfortable with. YES - whole heartedly agree. Really provides an amazing magic carpet like ride and very plush - yet doesn't (to me and YMMV) effect climbing/pedaling efficiency. I've been in this zone now for a couple weeks and every ride is littered w strava medals and even more important a crap ton of grins.

    Im amazed and the wide range of setup without significant downsides. Seemed just a couple iterations of DW link previous the window for a good setup was very narrow...

    For me - the biggest upgrade was when I bought a 2020 Lyrik Ulti. It has really been set/forget since 2nd ride... no matter what I do w shock pressure/setup - the fork is amazing and I can appreciate the ez factor after the DVO fiddle fest.

    negatives - very few. BUT
    - she does creak when dirty - and im riding in dry and dusty conditions. just means a good rinse with the hose when its annoying.
    - Weight - could be lighter, yet Im older every day and still going faster up and down than ever

    Now need to see winter snows hold off for a while deep into fall to keep riding

  126. #3526
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CrozCountry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,568
    Quote Originally Posted by kbecker View Post
    When i let the air out of mine i was surprised that bottomout doesnt push the o ring down the shaft farther. I would have thought it was all the way at the bottom like other shocks ive owned.
    Measure how much the o ring moves from open to bottom out, not where it ends.

    It's pretty common for shocks not to move to the end. Many models are one body with internal travel restrictions to fit different frames. Both rockshox and fox do that.

  127. #3527
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    The shock is 55mm stroke, but to fit the layout of the bike, the shaft is longer than that. A fair number of people on these forums think they aren't getting full travel, until they measure where the ring ends up.
    That's a great point for everyone to know and check when reviewing their travel use and settings. I can say for the Diamond, it compresses all the way until it the bolt on fender hits the front of the crown and stops. I have 2 marks on my crown to prove it! Lol
    2020 Ripmo AF

  128. #3528
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    That's a great point for everyone to know and check when reviewing their travel use and settings. I can say for the Diamond, it compresses all the way until it the bolt on fender hits the front of the crown and stops. I have 2 marks on my crown to prove it! Lol
    Lol can confirm onyx bottoms out all the way at the top too

  129. #3529
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Some Ripmo musings/experinces on a gloomy Friday:

    I stand by previous posts - this bike is the real deal. Nothing it can't do. Even running a deep sag, its efficient and climbs very well. Downhill - it can dance and plow all at the same time.

    My personal favorite setup right now is to run the topaz well into the 30-32% sag. It was mentioned earlier by another rider that may have spoke direct to DVO stated 18mm and as fast a rebound as comfortable with. YES - whole heartedly agree. Really provides an amazing magic carpet like ride and very plush - yet doesn't (to me and YMMV) effect climbing/pedaling efficiency. I've been in this zone now for a couple weeks and every ride is littered w strava medals and even more important a crap ton of grins.

    Im amazed and the wide range of setup without significant downsides. Seemed just a couple iterations of DW link previous the window for a good setup was very narrow...

    For me - the biggest upgrade was when I bought a 2020 Lyrik Ulti. It has really been set/forget since 2nd ride... no matter what I do w shock pressure/setup - the fork is amazing and I can appreciate the ez factor after the DVO fiddle fest.

    negatives - very few. BUT
    - she does creak when dirty - and im riding in dry and dusty conditions. just means a good rinse with the hose when its annoying.
    - Weight - could be lighter, yet Im older every day and still going faster up and down than ever

    Now need to see winter snows hold off for a while deep into fall to keep riding
    For sure. I like the "squatty" feel of this bike with a bit more sag too, basically with the o-ring right where the bottom of the DVO logo is on the shaft of the Topaz. Makes a super easy reference. With less sag, the bike can feel "pogo'y" and not as plush and planted. For weight, it's not bad at all if you put some lighter tires on it and don't buy the base model build. Once you know that the frame is only 0.5-1.0 lbs heavier than most competitors CARBON frames, that really puts it in perspective. The DVO forks are a bit heavier than the Fox or Lyrik so there's room to save there too if one is interested. Great bike and just because it's alloy doesn't mean it needs to have boat anchor tires, a beastly fork and be considered an "enduro sled".
    2020 Ripmo AF

  130. #3530
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    384
    Anyone experimented with lighter tires? Say more XC type tires. Picking up a Rekon rear and may run a Dissector up front but have heard good things about Forekasters. Also heard good things about Bontrager tires too

  131. #3531
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    122
    Yep. With the topaz, sag at the end of the logo. That said I found for my taste the topaz compression damping was just too light. I switched to a super deluxe ultimate so I have some adjustability and also have a lyrik ultimate 170mm inbound, still run 33-35% sag. It still pedals ok with the higher sag and having more low speed compression also helps, but I wouldn't mind the BB just a little higher. But overall it feels amazing.

    Tire wise I had a 2.4" xr4 rear initially and it was good as a lightweight tire goes. I'd not go any lighter on this bike.

    I swapped to a 2.6" se4 (same tread but heavier casing) but the rear end does feel vague and I think the tire is part of it. I will probably go to a 2.4" SE4 and cushcore to try to reduce the squirm.

  132. #3532
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by KennyWatson View Post
    Yep. With the topaz, sag at the end of the logo. That said I found for my taste the topaz compression damping was just too light. I switched to a super deluxe ultimate so I have some adjustability and also have a lyrik ultimate 170mm inbound, still run 33-35% sag. It still pedals ok with the higher sag and having more low speed compression also helps, but I wouldn't mind the BB just a little higher. But overall it feels amazing.

    Tire wise I had a 2.4" xr4 rear initially and it was good as a lightweight tire goes. I'd not go any lighter on this bike.

    I swapped to a 2.6" se4 (same tread but heavier casing) but the rear end does feel vague and I think the tire is part of it. I will probably go to a 2.4" SE4 and cushcore to try to reduce the squirm.
    Fit a 170mm fork to the RAF at your own risk. You will void warranty. In a direct statement from Chuck Ibis to a question I asked he said please do not fit a 170 to the RAF the frame is not approved for it strength wise. V2 yes RAF no. Your call though. Personally I donít want to stuff with such a dialled in GEO anyway. Thatís why I asked the question to see how much difference it would make to the feel and performance.

  133. #3533
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    122
    I make most of my decisions in life at my own risk and by processing if those decisions are reasonable using my own common sense. In this case I have plenty of reasons to feel it's fine and I have a good grasp of what the geo changes look like. I suspect a hear from now there will be a lot of these bikes in the wild with 170mm forks. Thanks though!

  134. #3534
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by munk1e View Post
    Thanks for the responses guys. Everything is as it should. OTT open, using basic settings for the appropriate weight.

    I did let out all the air, closed OTT all the way and opened it back up and I seem to have gotten some of the travel back, but I'm still getting this honking sound within the first few MM of travel. Made a video, sorry the sound is low. I do the honking sound, some full pushes and then a few more of the honks.

    https://youtu.be/JLWF5POjrXw
    Not sure about the "honking" sound, but when a fork is stuck down in it's travel and seems to have a reverse suction thing going on, a trick to try is to insert a small zip tie between the stanchion and dust wiper seal and push down until it dislodges the foam ring enough to break the air pressure build up.

    I've done this on a Pike and others have tried it with success on their Diamonds.

  135. #3535
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    209
    What frame protection are yíall using for the red RAF?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  136. #3536
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    What frame protection are yíall using for the red RAF?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Invisiframe and some top tube AMS decals.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  137. #3537
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Anyone experimented with lighter tires? Say more XC type tires. Picking up a Rekon rear and may run a Dissector up front but have heard good things about Forekasters. Also heard good things about Bontrager tires too
    I've seen a front 2.6 Dissector with rear Rekon 2.6 specd on the new Scott Genius. Looked great in the shop for a lighter duty setup. Nice tread pattern. I find 2.6s squirmy so went with a 2.5 DHF EXO and 2.5 Aggressor EXO. Wish I could go lighter but can't get away with it. My Aggressor is already borderline.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  138. #3538
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    What frame protection are yíall using for the red RAF?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I went with some DIY kydex protection on the down tube / bottom bracket. Fir everything else I use the force. Oh, and I don't really know the force..

  139. #3539
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by RyderRider View Post
    I went with some DIY kydex protection on the down tube / bottom bracket. Fir everything else I use the force. Oh, and I don't really know the force..
    What are you all using for adhesive to stick the Kydex on? The Esker Elkat protector I have is unpeeling itself more and more. No amount of ďheavy dutyĒ double side tape seems to work.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  140. #3540
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    What are you all using for adhesive to stick the Kydex on? The Esker Elkat protector I have is unpeeling itself more and more. No amount of ďheavy dutyĒ double side tape seems to work.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I need to redo it, but I use double sided hook and loop (3M Velcro) tape. I used some basic consumer grade stuff when I first set it up. I guess I should be using this smoked out time to redo it with better hook and loop adhesive tape. It is pretty stout and allows you to take it on and off unlike regular adhesive tape. I just need to contour it a bit more with a heat gun to make the kydex sit a bit more flush to frame. I love hearing the rocks bounce harmlessly off the kydex when I am cooking along and the Assegai tires are chucking rocks at the down tube. I had thought about using some sort of zip tie or rubber tie-down. But those would all create friction points for sand and mud to start chewing through the finish.

  141. #3541
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    8
    Hey all - do the Ibis aluminum rims come already taped for tubeless, or should I expect to tape them myself? (Counting down the days until my AF arrives & sweating the details lol)

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  142. #3542
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,323
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    What are you all using for adhesive to stick the Kydex on? The Esker Elkat protector I have is unpeeling itself more and more. No amount of ďheavy dutyĒ double side tape seems to work.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    some downtubes have bottle cage mounts. The ibis ripmo has some mounts for their factory downtube protector. I have my homemade kydex screwed into that.

    I used some gorilla double sided tape for extra adhesion. I used the same tape on my santa cruz tallboy and the tape was still going strong years later.

    you could use double sided tape, then use something like a ziptie to tighten it down.

    People say to cut the kydex with a knife, which is a pain. I use a table saw to make very fast cuts, and then a heat gun to heat it up, mold it, heat it up, mold it more.

  143. #3543
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    122
    Quote Originally Posted by GFab View Post
    Hey all - do the Ibis aluminum rims come already taped for tubeless, or should I expect to tape them myself? (Counting down the days until my AF arrives & sweating the details lol)

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Came pretaped.

  144. #3544
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by KennyWatson View Post
    Came pretaped.
    Thanks Kenny!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  145. #3545
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    235
    Just FYI for the other RAF folks, I cracked my frame in the linkage about 3 weeks ago. Ive been riding park all season so I've been riding it like a DH bike. Showed ibis, explained my settings and the scenario; warrantied and fixed in about 10 days. Could not be more pleased with the ease and speed of the process. Happy customer for sure. Maybe a carbon next?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  146. #3546
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kwapik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    542
    Have a photo or two? I sure haven't heard of many having issues.

  147. #3547
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    235
    I really want to stress that I definitely put this bike through more than a lot of dh rigs. I'm completely happy to continue riding it lol. I can keep up with 99% of people at the park and still pedal it up a mountain without feeling like I've made a huge mistake.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  148. #3548
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    719
    Anyone know what spring rate comes with the xl jade x build?
    I like bikes

  149. #3549
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Anyone experimented with lighter tires? Say more XC type tires. Picking up a Rekon rear and may run a Dissector up front but have heard good things about Forekasters. Also heard good things about Bontrager tires too
    I'm running Schwalbe Nobby Nic 29x2.35 rear and Hans Dampf 29x2.35 front. Both are Evolution/Addix. They are light and grippy enough for trail riding. These are on ibis 933 wheels (30mm internal), it's the combo that came on my DV9. They are not as grippy/tough as my Assegai/Aggressor 29x2.5 combo I have on the S35s but much lighter and quicker to accelerate, the schwalbe combo maybe drops ~2lbs total if I had to guess.

    I ran this combo but wider (29x2.6) on my old trail hardtail (Salsa Woodsmoke) here in the CO front range (sharp rocky trails) and they help up well enough, about 800 miles before I sold the bike and they had plenty of tread left, no punctures.

    I'm thinking about adding rimpact to the 29x2.35 schwalbes but haven't gotten around to it yet. I haven't gotten any rim hits yet so it deems unnecessary but as soon as I do, I'll regret not having already added the rimpact.

    Also, I've only got about 50 miles on the schwalbe 2.35/ibis933 wheels on my RAF. They were great on the DV9, hopefully they continue to do well on the RAF but I haven't done a long term test yet.

  150. #3550
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    209
    Quote Originally Posted by yzedf View Post
    Anyone know what spring rate comes with the xl jade x build?
    Whatever spring you ask for.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  151. #3551
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joe_510's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    1,220
    According to the Ibis website the 500lb spring ships with the XL standard
    East Bay Parks AKA East Bay Cattle Ranches

  152. #3552
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    My LBS said they had plenty of springs to select from and asked for my weight to set it up for my ride weight. I imagine if you order online, someone should ask a similar question.

  153. #3553
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    719
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe_510 View Post
    According to the Ibis website the 500lb spring ships with the XL standard
    Thank you, I missed that in the setup document somehow.
    I like bikes

  154. #3554
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    122
    Ripmo AF Thread-pxl_20200915_142905093.jpg

    My size L in its current form.
    Rockshox super deluxe ultimate shock
    Lyrik ultimate 170mm fork
    X01 drivetrain with 165mm hope cranks
    Rental cockpit
    One up 210 dropper
    Bontrager SE4 rear/SE5 front

    Basically only the wheels remain from the original bike other than the frame itself.

    Only a few rides in but the suspension change has been a game changer for me as a heavier rider. The dvo stuff is nice but IMO the tune is too light and there's not enough adjustability to compensate.

    The dvo stuff really made the bike feel like a sled. It feels much sportier now while still being composed in the chunk.

  155. #3555
    San Miguel Beer Drinker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    333
    Whats your rebound/compression tune on the rear shock


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  156. #3556
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    159
    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    Just FYI for the other RAF folks, I cracked my frame in the linkage about 3 weeks ago. Ive been riding park all season so I've been riding it like a DH bike. Showed ibis, explained my settings and the scenario; warrantied and fixed in about 10 days. Could not be more pleased with the ease and speed of the process. Happy customer for sure. Maybe a carbon next?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    I've heard racing folks (intense owner in this instance), talking about riding aluminum EWS and he just off-hand says that his racers will probably go through 2-3 frames a season since it is aluminum. So I guess if you ride super hard, a carbon super stout frame may be the way to go :shrug:.

  157. #3557
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,217
    a little "duck" tape oughta fix that right up and keep ya riding park until the warranty comes in... and should match the frame!!

  158. #3558
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    122
    It's an M/M, it came from a Santa Cruz originally so it started life as M/L and needed the damper body changed from bearing style to bushing style, the shop said spec for a Ripmo is M/M so I had them change it at the same time but I don't think the time change was totally necessary.

    I run the compression 3 clicks from fully closed and rebound 3 clicks from fully open, the bike likes fast rebound, so I'd not hesitate to run an M/L, lighter rebound wouldn't hurt it.
    I do like the medium compression though and wouldn't want lighter as in my case the main reason for the swap was specifically to run more sag and get some support still.
    Last edited by KennyWatson; 4 Days Ago at 07:28 PM.

  159. #3559
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Quote Originally Posted by KennyWatson View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PXL_20200915_142905093.jpg 
Views:	69 
Size:	287.5 KB 
ID:	1364235

    My size L in its current form.
    Rockshox super deluxe ultimate shock
    Lyrik ultimate 170mm fork
    X01 drivetrain with 165mm hope cranks
    Rental cockpit
    One up 210 dropper
    Bontrager SE4 rear/SE5 front

    Basically only the wheels remain from the original bike other than the frame itself.

    Only a few rides in but the suspension change has been a game changer for me as a heavier rider. The dvo stuff is nice but IMO the tune is too light and there's not enough adjustability to compensate.

    The dvo stuff really made the bike feel like a sled. It feels much sportier now while still being composed in the chunk.
    Awesome build man! Dialed in all areas and some lighter stuff where it makes sense. Do you know the total weight on it without pedals?
    2020 Ripmo AF

  160. #3560
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    122
    Thanks.It's 33 with pedals. The fork is a little lighter than the diamond but the shock is a little heavier than a topaz, so the suspension change netted no difference weight wise.



    My second bike is a relatively light carbon hardtail

  161. #3561
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by michaelandk2 View Post
    I've heard racing folks (intense owner in this instance), talking about riding aluminum EWS and he just off-hand says that his racers will probably go through 2-3 frames a season since it is aluminum. So I guess if you ride super hard, a carbon super stout frame may be the way to go :shrug:.
    As if the ones riding carbon frames are any different. Youíd be surprised how many parts are swapped out by anyone in any racing capacity. Jeff Kendall-Weed made a comment in one of his videos about I believe his Ripley saying that he had swapped out 4-5 chainstays while heíd had it.

  162. #3562
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    159
    Quote Originally Posted by mountainless-biking View Post
    As if the ones riding carbon frames are any different. Youíd be surprised how many parts are swapped out by anyone in any racing capacity. Jeff Kendall-Weed made a comment in one of his videos about I believe his Ripley saying that he had swapped out 4-5 chainstays while heíd had it.

    Thatís pretty crazy. Always thought I rode fairly hard at 210 and being strongish, guess not compared to that lol!

  163. #3563
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by michaelandk2 View Post
    Thatís pretty crazy. Always thought I rode fairly hard at 210 and being strongish, guess not compared to that lol!
    Yeah, this discussion has me glad that Ibis has a 7 year frame warranty!

  164. #3564
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    14
    I put another dent in the stock S35 rim today, this time it was the front and the wheel went out of true. I'm running Assagai front/Aggressor rear with Rimpact front and Rimpact Pro in the rear. I weight 190lbs and the tires had 20/21psi according to my topeak pressure gauge and 30/32psi according to my topeak pump so who knows what the pressure really was.

    Anyone else had issues with the RAF S35 rims denting easily? I'm debating warranty v. waiting a few more rides to see if it was a fluke.

    The trail was Apex/Enchanted Forrest (aka Magic Mountain) in Golden, CO.

    I sometimes ride the RAF with my more narrow, ibis 933 wheels, that came on my DV9, I run these without rimpact and with Schwalbe 29x2.35 tires and have had no rim damage.

  165. #3565
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joe_510's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    1,220
    I've had my bike since late July and the rear wheel looks like a fkn pumpkin lol. Easily the worst, heaviest set of wheels I've owned. But stock wheels are for destroying I guess.
    East Bay Parks AKA East Bay Cattle Ranches

  166. #3566
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    577
    Hmm. If you compare the weight of the stock alloy wheels to the Ibis carbon wheels and the Santa Cruz Reserve wheels, they aren't that much heavier (all 35mm of course). Surprising actually. I have a ton of rides on mine, all on moderately rough Tahoe/Truckee trails with no dings yet but that was with the stock EXO+ Assegais. I'm 175 lbs and ride pretty "light". I switched to a regular EXO (non plus) DHF and Aggressor with no inserts and have been pinging of the rear rim sometimes. I've been cautions trying to see how much I can push it and haven't be able to just point and mash it like could with the old tires.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  167. #3567
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    693
    I'm looking to upgrade my wheels but I'm having trouble finding a STRONG 35mm INNER rim. Anyone find any good options? Thinking of pairing them to i9 Hydras with 32 spokes. I'm a pretty heft guy and I don't ride "light" very well. Already dented the Ibis branded rear wheel, but I do LOVE the performance of the 2.5WT tires on the 35mm rims.

  168. #3568
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    337


    In other useless news- The Ripmo AF is 1 year old today you guys!

    https://m.pinkbike.com/news/first-lo...-ripmo-af.html


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  169. #3569
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    8
    From Roscoe to Ripmo AF!

    Thanks to helpful forum members and Shaun at N+1, my Ripmo arrived today. So psyched, coming from a hardtail.

    First impressions of my Deore build on a typically janky, up & down Massachusetts trail are amazing!

    Like, wait, climbing can actually be fun and doable?!? My son said that I was generally faster on this bike, but he noticed the biggest difference in my climbing -- not exactly what I was expecting, but something about the suspension and that nice seat tube angle just rocks.

    And on the techy downhills, the bike is so confidence inspiring - I felt great taking lines that my hardtail would work me over on, and just basically *safer*. I'm not about the huge hits, but I like good sized rock rolls and smaller (read tiny) jumps and drops, and the bike performed just great on those, but really the primary thing I noticed was that I wasn't scared, knowing that the bike could handle everything I could throw at it.

    With an Assegai front and 2.4 Dissector rear, acceleration was better than my 27.5+ as well, and the grip and "carving" on flat turns was solid.

    Two things that I noticed and can totally live with are I did seem to have 10-15% more pedal strikes (glad I threw some crank boots on) - I may bump up my shock psi a little as based on 25% sag, I was below the setup guide recs. Maybe I'll shoot for 20%-ish next time. Worst case I'll grab some 170mm cranks. The other thing was stiction on the dropper lever. Seemed to loosen up a bit, but my Trek's lever was smoother. We shall see.

    Anyway, I'm super pleased with everything else - the Deore drivetrain is a significant upgrade over SRAM SX and aside from some suspension fiddling, there's nothing I want to do to this bike other than ride it!





    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  170. #3570
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    85
    @TanMan

    WhooHoo!! Happy Birthday RAF! It is a pretty sweet bike. It has been a GREAT reentry bike for me. I have been enjoying how well the suspension has been treating me. It's just a lot of fun to ride, especially down hill.

    @GFab

    Congrats on the new bike! If you have the legs, it will climb like a goat. I find the Jade-X coil really helps keep the rear planted up some steep uneven terrain. I wonder what the sales numbers look like for the RAF. I would like to see more aluminum options available for people. This is already a pretty expensive sport to pick up. It is nice to have nice options that are more affordable than carbon. I am glad that they picked this bike to test the aluminum waters again. I imagine that they have done alright selling these bikes. They are pretty much always sold out. I mean, a lot of bike are, but I went to a LBS today to pick up some goggles and notice, probably the same, $8-$10K Santa Cruz Hightowers sitting on the rack that I saw back in June. Even SC has been sold out of their aluminum options for a while now.

  171. #3571
    San Miguel Beer Drinker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    333
    Congrats on the new RAF!

    Yup, agree on the dropper lever. I changed mine before leaving the shop. (Although I eventually ended up changing the dropper and the remote entirely).


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  172. #3572
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeboardorblade's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    429
    Quote Originally Posted by RyderRider View Post
    @TanMan

    WhooHoo!! Happy Birthday RAF! It is a pretty sweet bike. It has been a GREAT reentry bike for me. I have been enjoying how well the suspension has been treating me. It's just a lot of fun to ride, especially down hill.

    @GFab

    Congrats on the new bike! If you have the legs, it will climb like a goat. I find the Jade-X coil really helps keep the rear planted up some steep uneven terrain. I wonder what the sales numbers look like for the RAF. I would like to see more aluminum options available for people. This is already a pretty expensive sport to pick up. It is nice to have nice options that are more affordable than carbon. I am glad that they picked this bike to test the aluminum waters again. I imagine that they have done alright selling these bikes. They are pretty much always sold out. I mean, a lot of bike are, but I went to a LBS today to pick up some goggles and notice, probably the same, $8-$10K Santa Cruz Hightowers sitting on the rack that I saw back in June. Even SC has been sold out of their aluminum options for a while now.
    Iím keeping my fingers crossed for an alloy HD5. One can always dream.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  173. #3573
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    100
    Has anyone here ridden an Evil Wreckoning. Preferably the latest version but any feedback is welcome. If so how does it compare to the RAF. Where is it better or worse? Does it climb as well? Does it have pedal kickback? How does it handle repeated square edged chunk. Does that very angled seat post above the elbow make the seat feel too far back on climbs when the post is extended?
    The bloody thing has caught my eye in a big way. I did look into them a little before I bought the RAF but now the new GEO overall seems more to what I was after. The thing is I LOVE my RAF and would hate to spend that much money to not like it as much. I donít really want to have more than one bike. I could keep the RAF until I see if I like the Evil but thatís a big outlay just to find out it wasnít what I was hoping it would be.

Page 18 of 18 FirstFirst ... 81415161718

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 10
    Last Post: 01-22-2020, 09:46 PM
  2. Replies: 46
    Last Post: 02-10-2019, 08:43 AM
  3. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-02-2019, 02:46 PM
  4. AF Canyon Trails....OPEN!
    By tallsteve in forum Utah
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-19-2012, 11:30 AM
  5. AF on coaster brakes!
    By stiingya in forum New Mexico
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-03-2011, 06:47 PM

Members who have read this thread: 996

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.