Ripmo AF Thread - Page 12- Mtbr.com
Page 12 of 13 FirstFirst ... 28910111213 LastLast
Results 2,201 to 2,400 of 2560

Thread: Ripmo AF Thread

  1. #2201
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Iím thinking 2.4 WT, but not sure with the 35mm rims. Is there a point weíre wider tires are slower than skinny tires? I know conventional wisdom was that skinny tires are faster than wider tires, but some tests show that 2.4 tires is actually faster than a 2.0 tire. But what about 2.4 vs 2.6, is there a point where the weight disadvantage becomes more prominent and a Ďskinnyí 2.4 is faster than a 2.6? Iím only 140lbs so I can run pretty low pressures. Wrong forum I know, but with tires being so expensive I want to buy once

    Iíll think Iíll buy a dissector first and throw it on the back and see how that rolls. Then if Iím feel I want something faster, Iíll get the rekon and move the dissector to the front. Interested to know everyoneís thoughts.
    The owner of Worldwide mentions that setup. DHRII front and Dissector rear for his medium-duty setup and Dissector front with Rekon rear for his fast light duty setup.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  2. #2202
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Is it necessary to remove the cartridges to change the oil? Will all the oil drain, or is it a vacuum type situation? Iím sure my seals are fine as Iíve only had a few hours on mine, but would like to check if the oil is ok.

    http://tech.dvosuspension.com/wp-con...ealservice.pdf
    See post #2133 for someone's feedback on this...

  3. #2203
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Lower legs of my fork were dry.
    Damper side is 35ccís
    Air side 25ccís

    All that it had was SlickHoney.

    UGH


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I ordered Golden Spectro 7.5wt oil just in case I pull mine apart and they are dry. Interested to see how you like it after adding oil.

  4. #2204
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    I ordered Golden Spectro 7.5wt oil just in case I pull mine apart and they are dry. Interested to see how you like it after adding oil.
    Quick pedal in the parking lot feels much better. Heading out for a ride in a few. Will report back later.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #2205
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Quick pedal in the parking lot feels much better. Heading out for a ride in a few. Will report back later.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Nice! What oil did you use?

  6. #2206
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    14
    Would you mind sharing your diamond settings, ott, rebound, psi, etc.? Weíre pretty much same weight and looks like we ride similar trails ... curious whatís working for you? Still haven't gotten the fork to feel supple over continuous big rock hits. For a handful of hits, it feels great, get a line up of big rocks and the front gets a bit jarring.


    Quote Originally Posted by me and my bike View Post
    So we just made a video on how to set up your DVO fork https://youtu.be/t3JvLCuY_S4 if anyone needed some tuning help, I've gotten a few messages from some people on here about my settings on my Ripmo AF and how to dial it in. The biggest mistake I see a lot of people making is treating the OTT as a full range adjuster (you really only have a range of about 3 full turns based on your weight) and also adding half turns in (you should be doing a full turn on it). Anyways happy to help answer any questions or you can bug those guys too haha!

    P.S The chart used in the video was a reference chart to the emerald fork, in the decription you can find the recommended tune for the Diamond as well as with this link! http://tech.dvosuspension.com/setup/diamond/

    The chart that is supplied with the Ibis Ripmo AF is correct!

  7. #2207
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Nice! What oil did you use?
    Had a pretty epic ride and moved up the Strava leaderboards on a few of the local trails FWIW.

    The only thing I had laying was Fox 7.5wt fluid. And Iím glad I did.

    I believe it was the air side you could still see where the fork was assembled with SlickHoney but nothing else. Foam ring was completely dry.

    Damper side was completely covered in lube but again no oil. Foam ring dry.

    I had been feeling inconsistencies in the fork and wasnít able to pinpoint till now. It would feel great one day and not so much the next ride. Then it started to feel notchy not matter how the fork was set up.

    With the proper oil and lube the fork feels just as good as my Fox Factory 36. I reset the fork back to recommended settings. Iím going to give it a few more rides to see how it goes. Next couple days Iíll be flipping the bike over, wheels up, to make sure the foam rings are soaked. all is good but Iím disappointed. I was hoping for more than that from DVO.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #2208
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Had a pretty epic ride and moved up the Strava leaderboards on a few of the local trails FWIW.

    The only thing I had laying was Fox 7.5wt fluid. And Iím glad I did.

    I believe it was the air side you could still see where the fork was assembled with SlickHoney but nothing else. Foam ring was completely dry.

    Damper side was completely covered in lube but again no oil. Foam ring dry.

    I had been feeling inconsistencies in the fork and wasnít able to pinpoint till now. It would feel great one day and not so much the next ride. Then it started to feel notchy not matter how the fork was set up.

    With the proper oil and lube the fork feels just as good as my Fox Factory 36. I reset the fork back to recommended settings. Iím going to give it a few more rides to see how it goes. Next couple days Iíll be flipping the bike over, wheels up, to make sure the foam rings are soaked. all is good but Iím disappointed. I was hoping for more than that from DVO.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Crazy! Now I really can't wait to tear into mine Lol

  9. #2209
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Crazy! Now I really can't wait to tear into mine Lol
    When I tore mine down the first weekend I was on the fence about getting into the fork and chose not to. Kinda regret that now but Iím glad I didnít wait any longer. The mechanics that I was working with said i was lucky not to have damaged the stanchions.

    So moral of the story is trust no one and fully disassemble a bike and check it out before you ride it lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #2210
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    When I tore mine down the first weekend I was on the fence about getting into the fork and chose not to. Kinda regret that now but Iím glad I didnít wait any longer. The mechanics that I was working with said i was lucky not to have damaged the stanchions.

    So moral of the story is trust no one and fully disassemble a bike and check it out before you ride it lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    After reading an earlier post it looks like all you need to do is drain the air, remove the OTT and Rebound adjustment assemblies then the fork will come apart, right? Seems easy enough.

  11. #2211
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    After reading an earlier post it looks like all you need to do is drain the air, remove the OTT and Rebound adjustment assemblies then the fork will come apart, right? Seems easy enough.
    I didnít bother with the letting the air out. Your arenít getting into the air spring.

    Pulled the fork off the bike, 18mm socket for both footnuts. Unthreaded them a few turns then smacked the socket with a rubber mallet to unseat the rods. Pulled the adjusters all the way out. Laid the fork horizontal so any fluid would stay in the lowers-LOL-and slid the uppers out of the lowers. Inspected inside and confirmed no fluid. Lubed the wipers to make sure sliding the uppers in would go nicely. Popped them together. Inverted the fork and poured in the fluid. Slid them all the way together. Installed both footnuts, torqued to 10nM, I think. Took about 15 minutes after lunch. Super happy we did it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #2212
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    I didnít bother with the letting the air out. Your arenít getting into the air spring.

    Pulled the fork off the bike, 18mm socket for both footnuts. Unthreaded them a few turns then smacked the socket with a rubber mallet to unseat the rods. Pulled the adjusters all the way out. Laid the fork horizontal so any fluid would stay in the lowers-LOL-and slid the uppers out of the lowers. Inspected inside and confirmed no fluid. Lubed the wipers to make sure sliding the uppers in would go nicely. Popped them together. Inverted the fork and poured in the fluid. Slid them all the way together. Installed both footnuts, torqued to 10nM, I think. Took about 15 minutes after lunch. Super happy we did it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    So easy a caveman could do it! I'll be tearing into mine on Thursday when the fork oil arrives.

  13. #2213
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeboardorblade's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    423
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Had a pretty epic ride and moved up the Strava leaderboards on a few of the local trails FWIW.

    The only thing I had laying was Fox 7.5wt fluid. And Iím glad I did.

    I believe it was the air side you could still see where the fork was assembled with SlickHoney but nothing else. Foam ring was completely dry.

    Damper side was completely covered in lube but again no oil. Foam ring dry.

    I had been feeling inconsistencies in the fork and wasnít able to pinpoint till now. It would feel great one day and not so much the next ride. Then it started to feel notchy not matter how the fork was set up.

    With the proper oil and lube the fork feels just as good as my Fox Factory 36. I reset the fork back to recommended settings. Iím going to give it a few more rides to see how it goes. Next couple days Iíll be flipping the bike over, wheels up, to make sure the foam rings are soaked. all is good but Iím disappointed. I was hoping for more than that from DVO.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    For what itís worth, and this is by no means an excuse or cop out, Every. Single. Manufacture has had this issue. Itís a bummer for sure, but with any fork itís a good idea to drop the lowers and check the fluid and grease levels, and then try and do it before the next recommended intervals. Itís super easy once youíve done it once and the payoffs are huge.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #2214
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    If no oil in the lowers do you guys think it is worth to go further in the investigation and open up the air spring... Wich require more specialized tools like a shaft clamp that I don't have ..??

  15. #2215
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeboardorblade's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    423
    I think thatís a little overboard for a brand new fork, unless thereís something seriously wrong. Dry foam rings and lowers and too much grease on the air spring are the two most common assembly missteps. Iíve never heard of a fork shipping completely dry.

  16. #2216
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Good that makes sens

  17. #2217
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    So basically follow their "seal service guide" but not removing the cartridges or seals? I wonder why they even remove the cartridges in that guide since they only work on the lowers? For the grease, do you need Slick Honey or any special grease there? I have some Maxima 7.5wt on me but no fancy grease!

    http://tech.dvosuspension.com/wp-con...ealservice.pdf
    2020 Ripmo AF

  18. #2218
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    So basically follow their "seal service guide" but not removing the cartridges or seals? I wonder why they even remove the cartridges in that guide since they only work on the lowers? For the grease, do you need Slick Honey or any special grease there? I have some Maxima 7.5wt on me but no fancy grease!

    http://tech.dvosuspension.com/wp-con...ealservice.pdf
    Yeah definitely not necessary to remove the HSC/LSC assembly and air spring, not sure why they say to do so in the instructions. I'd personally use Slick Honey or similar just to keep the fork smooth, not sure what other greases might do in there.

  19. #2219
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    I guess they recommend removing it to avoid scratching the inner of the lowers with the 2 rods while tilting the CSU to slide in the dust wipers

  20. #2220
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    138
    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    If no oil in the lowers do you guys think it is worth to go further in the investigation and open up the air spring... Wich require more specialized tools like a shaft clamp that I don't have ..??
    Never bought a shaft clamp in my life two bits of 20mm hardwood decking drill* slightly smaller hole than shaft intended to clamp or the same size and shim with paper if need be, free and effective.

    Sent from my BLA-L29 using tiny.cc/Mtbr_android_app

  21. #2221
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    I didnít bother with the letting the air out. Your arenít getting into the air spring.

    Pulled the fork off the bike, 18mm socket for both footnuts. Unthreaded them a few turns then smacked the socket with a rubber mallet to unseat the rods. Pulled the adjusters all the way out. Laid the fork horizontal so any fluid would stay in the lowers-LOL-and slid the uppers out of the lowers. Inspected inside and confirmed no fluid. Lubed the wipers to make sure sliding the uppers in would go nicely. Popped them together. Inverted the fork and poured in the fluid. Slid them all the way together. Installed both footnuts, torqued to 10nM, I think. Took about 15 minutes after lunch. Super happy we did it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Is it necessary to remove the fork to pull the lowers?

    I need to order oil, so is there one that's "best" for the diamond?

    Thanks!

  22. #2222
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Is it necessary to remove the fork to pull the lowers?

    I need to order oil, so is there one that's "best" for the diamond?

    Thanks!
    Unless you donít mind pouring the oil in as your bike sits upside down. Originally you will probably start with it right side up to drain any old oil coming out.

    But I think itís just easier to take it off instead of flipping the bicycle back and forth. Unless there is a oil injection/ suction tool that Iím not aware of. LOL.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  23. #2223
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    36
    i ordered some finish-line 7.5wt fork oil for it.

    my shortcut method might be keeping fork on bike and not completely removing lowers-

    or..... is it a bad idea to skip the seal inspection/grease? (because who would assemble a fork and forget to grease the seals? trying to slide the uppers into the ungreased seal would be obvious)

    -let out some pressure
    -set valving at open
    -remove wheel
    -let bike sit upside down over night so if any oil in there it will saturate the foam rings.
    -flip bike rightside up, put in repair stand
    -loosen bottom nuts and unseat rods
    -slide outers just enough to let oil out
    -catch oil if it drains
    +(log into MTBR to let everyone know if you had oil)
    -flip bike upside down on floor
    -add oil
    -if none came out maybe add a tiny bit extra to help account for some to saturate foam rings
    -reassemble
    -if it was dry let bike sit upside down for new oil to get the foam rings.
    -shimano brakes- burp if you want

    -RB

  24. #2224
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Is it necessary to remove the fork to pull the lowers?

    I need to order oil, so is there one that's "best" for the diamond?

    Thanks!
    I think this is what DVO uses stock: https://www.amazon.com/Spectro-Oil-L...9392785&sr=8-5

    Im new to all this, but in my recent reading a 7.5 wt oil is not the same viscosity across all manufacturers.

  25. #2225
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    I think this is what DVO uses stock: https://www.amazon.com/Spectro-Oil-L...9392785&sr=8-5

    Im new to all this, but in my recent reading a 7.5 wt oil is not the same viscosity across all manufacturers.
    I found this in another MTBR forum but super helpful.


    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  26. #2226
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Thanks for the info on the oil!

    Based on latest posts, seems like the prudent thing to do is first get some oil and then go and see if there is actually any in the fork!

  27. #2227
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    After all this talk with the Diamond Iím now considering cracking open my Jade X and making sure thatís all good too. Yipppeeeeee


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  28. #2228
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by bikeboardorblade View Post
    I think thatís a little overboard for a brand new fork, unless thereís something seriously wrong. Dry foam rings and lowers and too much grease on the air spring are the two most common assembly missteps. Iíve never heard of a fork shipping completely dry.
    Here's a bone dry Diamond with 80 miles on it. No grease on the air spring, no oil in the legs.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PPcYl-9k2k


    Glad to see everyone tearing into their forks, bummed to see so many crappy findings. Got out on another ride this morning, 16 miles and just under 3000" of climbing. The bike continues to surprise me with its ascending and descending prowess. Snapped these this morning while waiting on a buddy near the top. Click for higher resolution

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200513_100222_2.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200513_103354_2.jpg

  29. #2229
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    160
    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    Here's a bone dry Diamond with 80 miles on it. No grease on the air spring, no oil in the legs.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PPcYl-9k2k


    Glad to see everyone tearing into their forks, bummed to see so many crappy findings. Got out on another ride this morning, 16 miles and just under 3000" of climbing. The bike continues to surprise me with its ascending and descending prowess. Snapped these this morning while waiting on a buddy near the top. Click for higher resolution

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200513_100222_2.jpg 
Views:	66 
Size:	437.9 KB 
ID:	1332743

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200513_103354_2.jpg 
Views:	72 
Size:	325.8 KB 
ID:	1332745
    Damm.. that's harsh noise .. seems I need to start thinking about getting tools to open thoose lowers and I don't even have the bike yet

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  30. #2230
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Just noticed that my 160 Diamond is sitting at 150mm. I can pull it to 160mm but when I let go it drops back to 150. OTT is backed all the way off I think. Ugh


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  31. #2231
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    Here's a bone dry Diamond with 80 miles on it. No grease on the air spring, no oil in the legs.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PPcYl-9k2k


    Glad to see everyone tearing into their forks, bummed to see so many crappy findings. Got out on another ride this morning, 16 miles and just under 3000" of climbing. The bike continues to surprise me with its ascending and descending prowess. Snapped these this morning while waiting on a buddy near the top. Click for higher resolution

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200513_100222_2.jpg 
Views:	66 
Size:	437.9 KB 
ID:	1332743

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200513_103354_2.jpg 
Views:	72 
Size:	325.8 KB 
ID:	1332745
    Wow. That is a killer view. Where is this?
    Pics like these remind me why I am working to feed this habit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  32. #2232
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Just noticed that my 160 Diamond is sitting at 150mm. I can pull it to 160mm but when I let go it drops back to 150. OTT is backed all the way off I think. Ugh


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Mine sits at 158mm with the weight of the bike on it running 7 turns of OTT and 110 psi. Something doesnít sound right with yours are you sure you are turning the OTT the right way.

  33. #2233
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Wow. That is a killer view. Where is this?
    Pics like these remind me why I am working to feed this habit.
    It was quite an adventure today, went from overcast to rain, sleet, finally snow at the summit before descending the 2400' back down. Bike took it all in stride.

    Trail is about twenty minutes from my house in northern Utah. Come out, I'll show you!

  34. #2234
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Mine sits at 158mm with the weight of the bike on it running 7 turns of OTT and 110 psi. Something doesnít sound right with yours are you sure you are turning the OTT the right way.
    Iíll have to dig into it tomorrow. I suppose itís possible in my haste this afternoon that I was going the wrong way. I canít say for 100% I was going counter cw
    My fork was also set at 110 and 7 turns.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  35. #2235
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Just noticed that my 160 Diamond is sitting at 150mm. I can pull it to 160mm but when I let go it drops back to 150. OTT is backed all the way off I think. Ugh


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Interesting. OTT backed off all the way is rotating it counter clockwise looking from the bottom or towards the minus sign but you probably already knew that haha

  36. #2236
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    4
    Damn all this fork talk is scaring me. My fork feels good but it does make some squishing or wooshing noises as it rebounds. Has been doing that since I bought it (40-ish miles on it total). Anyone else have this?

  37. #2237
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    It was quite an adventure today, went from overcast to rain, sleet, finally snow at the summit before descending the 2400' back down. Bike took it all in stride.

    Trail is about twenty minutes from my house in northern Utah. Come out, I'll show you!
    Dude donít tempt me. Iíve always wanted to go to Utah. If my current gig doesnít work out, I might just take a couple months off and throw the AF in the back of the truck and take that nice road trip up north.

    On the way, Iíll stop by Sedona couple days to ride Templeton, Chuckwagon and maybe a little bit of Long Canyon- Deadmanís. Bounce off to Flagstaff for another few days before getting to Utah.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  38. #2238
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    After all this talk with the Diamond Iím now considering cracking open my Jade X and making sure thatís all good too. Yipppeeeeee


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Maybe thatís why our Jade X is making all that squishy noise in Trail setting. Itís probably bone dry inside too!!

    Whatís everyone using in place of the official ďseal pressĒ? I doubt I will fudge with the seals. But just in case.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  39. #2239
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    For anyone interested, just installed a 2.4WT Dissector and Cushcore XC on the rear of my bike. Measures 2.4" wide brand new with 28psi in it so it should stretch a little. Will report back this weekend how I like it!

  40. #2240
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,195
    FWIW - new Lyrik - by comparison is so buttery smooth and easy to setup! Cant wait to rip a couple more rides with her... will post a better compare/contrast after I do

  41. #2241
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Maybe thatís why our Jade X is making all that squishy noise in Trail setting. Itís probably bone dry inside too!!

    Whatís everyone using in place of the official ďseal pressĒ? I doubt I will fudge with the seals. But just in case.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I had the same thought!

    Someone on Mo Awesome's Jade X video commented they always use the shock in trail setting and that they use a stiffer spring and have rebound closed. I asked if it's still noisy. Hard to imagine always using it in trail setting based on how loud it is. Would be interesting if the spring rate/rebound combination impacted the noise somehow.

  42. #2242
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    131
    I ran my X in trail mode almost all the time and only heard it "squish" when i was stopped and just bouncing the bike. Never did i hear it while actually riding. Seems like rebound would have some kind of say on things though.

  43. #2243
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    61
    Anyone know what kind of lead times they are giving on the XL frame only option?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  44. #2244
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Interesting. OTT backed off all the way is rotating it counter clockwise looking from the bottom or towards the minus sign but you probably already knew that haha
    Yup it was backed all the way off.
    Confirmed this morning.
    But it seems like the fork returned to normal travel over night.
    The only thing the mechanic and I can come up with is we had an air pocket somewhere forcing the fork legs to be sucked down. I had left the bike upside all day yesterday so the foam rings would see some fluid. Didnít notice the drop in travel till I turned it over. Then I messed with the pressure and OTT-good thing I was only set to recommended because I had nothing recorded. Ran out of time before heading home and tossed the bike back in the stand and left it over night.

    This morning 163mm ďishĒ showing on the fork stanchions. Fork still feels pretty good. Iíll ride it tomorrow and hope all is good.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  45. #2245
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    I had the same thought!

    Someone on Mo Awesome's Jade X video commented they always use the shock in trail setting and that they use a stiffer spring and have rebound closed. I asked if it's still noisy. Hard to imagine always using it in trail setting based on how loud it is. Would be interesting if the spring rate/rebound combination impacted the noise somehow.
    I ride a 550 spring and just weighted myself at 185lbs naked, so about 190 with clothes and water bottle. And I really like the bike handling so I do encourage spring on the stiffer side if you ride aggressive. My rebound is quite fast and the bike is still composed on jump and else

  46. #2246
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    I ride a 550 spring and just weighted myself at 185lbs naked, so about 190 with clothes and water bottle. And I really like the bike handling so I do encourage spring on the stiffer side if you ride aggressive. My rebound is quite fast and the bike is still composed on jump and else
    So 190(without backpack) gets me about 20% sag with minimum preload.. I know it seems too little but still, it feels good for me. Then for long epic day with backpack I ll get closer to 200lbs (or when the gym opens up and I can get back at pumping that chest haha)

  47. #2247
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Well, pulled my Diamond apart yesterday. Took a few tries of disassembling and re assembling but its finally feeling good again. Not sure if it was the order of operations I missed but at one point I went to charge the shock with air and it would pressurize the lower leg! Went on a test ride with 85psi and blew out the top seal. Had to disassemble it, completely drain and remove the air spring from the fork, charge the air spring then re assemble everything again.

    And for what its worth, the damper side had maybe 5cc's of oil and the air spring side had none just a bunch of Slick Honey type stuff. Added 15cc's of Golden Spectro 7.5wt to the air spring side and 25cc's to the damper side. I called DVO to confirm with them the amount of bath oil they recommend and they said 25cc's in both sides is fine.

  48. #2248
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Well, pulled my Diamond apart yesterday. Took a few tries of disassembling and re assembling but its finally feeling good again. Not sure if it was the order of operations I missed but at one point I went to charge the shock with air and it would pressurize the lower leg! Went on a test ride with 85psi and blew out the top seal. Had to disassemble it, completely drain and remove the air spring from the fork, charge the air spring then re assemble everything again.

    And for what its worth, the damper side had maybe 5cc's of oil and the air spring side had none just a bunch of Slick Honey type stuff. Added 15cc's of Golden Spectro 7.5wt to the air spring side and 25cc's to the damper side. I called DVO to confirm with them the amount of bath oil they recommend and they said 25cc's in both sides is fine.
    WTF??? So confusing they told you that. On the DVO website someone previously linked it says 25cc air / 35cc damper
    http://tech.dvosuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/sealservice.pdf

  49. #2249
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Yup it was backed all the way off.
    Confirmed this morning.
    But it seems like the fork returned to normal travel over night.
    The only thing the mechanic and I can come up with is we had an air pocket somewhere forcing the fork legs to be sucked down. I had left the bike upside all day yesterday so the foam rings would see some fluid. Didnít notice the drop in travel till I turned it over. Then I messed with the pressure and OTT-good thing I was only set to recommended because I had nothing recorded. Ran out of time before heading home and tossed the bike back in the stand and left it over night.

    This morning 163mm ďishĒ showing on the fork stanchions. Fork still feels pretty good. Iíll ride it tomorrow and hope all is good.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I had this happen with my Pike and my first thought was to rebuild it. Instead I tried the "zip tie trick". Literally just push a small zip tie down between the stanchion and seal and the idea is it releases air pressure and resets itself. I was super skeptical but tried it and haven't had a problem since and it's been about a year. Not 100% sure it would be "safe" to do on the diamond. Someone else probably could say for sure though.

  50. #2250
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    36
    I luckily had oil in mine, but dropped lowers to check last night and did the greased tiny zip tie trick . Worked like a charm

  51. #2251
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    I had this happen with my Pike and my first thought was to rebuild it. Instead I tried the "zip tie trick". Literally just push a small zip tie down between the stanchion and seal and the idea is it releases air pressure and resets itself. I was super skeptical but tried it and haven't had a problem since and it's been about a year. Not 100% sure it would be "safe" to do on the diamond. Someone else probably could say for sure though.
    Yup I did the same to mine last night. Good for equalizing the fork when you travel to different elevations to ride as well. You'll trap pressure inside when you go up in elevation.

  52. #2252
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    WTF??? So confusing they told you that. On the DVO website someone previously linked it says 25cc air / 35cc damper
    http://tech.dvosuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/sealservice.pdf
    They probably just thought "any amount of oil in there is better than the none we sent it off with..."

  53. #2253
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Yup I did the same to mine last night. Good for equalizing the fork when you travel to different elevations to ride as well. You'll trap pressure inside when you go up in elevation.
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Yup I did the same to mine last night. Good for equalizing the fork when you travel to different elevations to ride as well. You'll trap pressure inside when you go up in elevation.
    That was in the reply that I received from DVO


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  54. #2254
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Damn cant believe it... My diamond was bone dry too. I thought this only happens to others lol but happy I checked...

  55. #2255
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    So it looks like Iíve finally sorted my suspension to a point that Iím pretty happy with it. I spoke to the tuner at the Australian distributor of DVO in person and told him what I had been trying. He said definitely donít flip the piston as the fork will have no support and he said not to remove the shims as per the you tube clip at this stage. He said they are already fairly lightly shimmed anyway.
    So what I did was full damper service and refilled it with Maxima 85-150 fork fluid. I also burped the bladder because it was sucked in. I did this by removing the C clips and pulling the green rings away from the bladder and let the air back in. I have a theory and I donít know whether itís correct or not but maybe if the bladder is sucked in then it has less give than if it is fully expanded and this could possibly reduce the initial plushness of the fork because it has nowhere to compress to because itís already there. Anyway did that and reinstalled it as per the DVO guide and reassembled the forks and put an oil mix in the lowers that the tuner gave me. He said fork oil is made for damping more so than friction reduction so he mixes Fox 20 with Torco 0-30 synthetic engine oil together. He said its much more slippery than fork oil. 35ml damper side 25ml air side. He also said I can run OTT at max as 110 psi is the crossover point and that if everything Is right inside the fork you wonít lose any travel. Or not enough worth worrying about.
    So my set up for 68kg ready to ride is
    110 psi
    9 turns of OTT
    10 clicks of rebound from closed
    0 LSC
    0 HSC.
    Today with that set up the bike was pretty bloody awesome. Just to see Iím going to try 10 turns of OTT tomorrow but even If I have to go back to the way it felt today Iím happy. It was plush, not Lyric Ultimate plush , but pretty close and still had that nice lively poppy feel that I think possibly could be lost with more plushness because little stuff you can kind of play around on getting small air might start to get absorbed by the plushness. Bigger hits like rock drop offs and jump landings were phenomenal very controlled even if I came up a little short on a double. Iím talking normal size drop offs like a metre and doubles around 4 metres or so apart. Nothing huge.
    Lastly I emailed DVO 4 days ago to get some recommendations and still havenít heard anything from them. I have to say Iím a little disappointed by that because if people are getting their forks set up well and posting how happy they are all over the net then they are more likely to sell more forks than having people say they havenít got any oil in them or they are harsh and taking them out of the bike to put other brands in. I think itís in their best interest to help but so far they havenít.

  56. #2256
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    7
    Wow, with all the forks being out of oil I may have my shop check mine when it comes in.

  57. #2257
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Ahh...Fu<k me.
    Spectro oil ordered.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  58. #2258
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Ahh...Fu<k me.
    Spectro oil ordered.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Uh thatís not good


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  59. #2259
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    5
    I was able to catch a NX build with the BikeYoke dropper upgrade incoming to a somewhat local shop, should be ready to pick up Tuesday! I gave the shop a heads up to check the fork oil before building thanks to this thread!

  60. #2260
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    Uh thatís not good


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Nothing yet. Just getting ready for an early lowers maintenance after reading about so many bone dry Diamonds here...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  61. #2261
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    FYI... I was able to find Golden Spectro Oil, Slickoleum grease (what SRAM butter is but cheaper) and the Maxima bike suspension spray cleaner all in stock at Universal Cycles. Ordered everything Thursday morning and it just arrived at my door!

    First time I used Universal Cycles; they also have coupon codes for 10%-15% off that they email you when you sign up for their newsletter. I bought some other stuff to, so the price ended up being pretty good.

  62. #2262
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    Damn cant believe it... My diamond was bone dry too. I thought this only happens to others lol but happy I checked...
    Well the fork doe run better with oil!! So I think I will settle on 137psi, 10 OTT turn, lsc and hsc both open, rebound almost all open (22 click out of closed/ 24 total)... At 190 lbs this feels nice.. Anyone else running much more psi than recommended?

  63. #2263
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by NateMob View Post
    I ran my X in trail mode almost all the time and only heard it "squish" when i was stopped and just bouncing the bike. Never did i hear it while actually riding. Seems like rebound would have some kind of say on things though.
    That's interesting. Here's my shock in trail mode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH4ep2HuZEo

    Based on the range of experiences from coil owners, makes me wonder if there might be an oil issue in the rear shock now...

  64. #2264
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Dropped my lowers to check/replace the oil, so a quick update.

    I've been very happy with my Diamond, so I suspected that mine was likely assembled with oil in the lowers. That was the case, and it was also well lubed with Slickoleum, BUT there definitely wasn't the spec amount of oil. After measuring what was in the bucket, I would guess about 30cc between both sides, so about half the spec amount. That's accounting for the remaining oil coating the inside surfaces of lowers, and the bucket after I drained it, and still being liberal on that count.

    I used Fox Gold 20 Wt, as that was what my local Suspension shop recommended (authorized DVO service center). Feels about the same on the floor, but we'll see when I hit the trails. I suspect it will probably feel the same, but perhaps a slight difference with slipperier bath oil.

  65. #2265
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    Ok final set up on my bike is as below for my 68kg riding weight.
    Fork
    110 psi
    10 turns of OTT. Iím not losing any travel at that either
    9 clicks of rebound from closed
    0 HSC
    0 LSC

    Shock
    150 psi in the air spring
    175 psi in the bladder
    4 clicks of rebound from closed
    1 volume spacer in the + side and 1 in the - side
    That gives me 27.5% sag

    Tyres
    DHF EXO MAXX-GRIP 3C 2.5 at 23 psi on the front
    Aggressor EXO 2.5 at 25 psi on the rear.

    So unless DVO gets in touch with me and gives me some revolutionary guaranteed to work set up then thatís it and set up like that the bike is pretty damn good.

    Iíve read somewhere ďWORK LESS RIDE MOREĒ. Thatís what I intend to do. At this stage Iím done with testing. It has helped me learn a lot about the bike and the suspension though and hopefully it helps someone else whoís read my posts.

  66. #2266
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Ok final set up on my bike is as below for my 68kg riding weight.
    Fork
    110 psi
    10 turns of OTT. Iím not losing any travel at that either
    9 clicks of rebound from closed
    0 HSC
    0 LSC

    Shock
    150 psi in the air spring
    175 psi in the bladder
    4 clicks of rebound from closed
    1 volume spacer in the + side and 1 in the - side
    That gives me 27.5% sag

    Tyres
    DHF EXO MAXX-GRIP 3C 2.5 at 23 psi on the front
    Aggressor EXO 2.5 at 25 psi on the rear.

    So unless DVO gets in touch with me and gives me some revolutionary guaranteed to work set up then thatís it and set up like that the bike is pretty damn good.

    Iíve read somewhere ďWORK LESS RIDE MOREĒ. Thatís what I intend to do. At this stage Iím done with testing. It has helped me learn a lot about the bike and the suspension though and hopefully it helps someone else whoís read my posts.
    Your fork must be kinda slow with that rebound??

  67. #2267
    sonoranbiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    494
    Any Ripmo AF/V2 owners have experience with the DPX2 from the Ripmo V1? Have a coil on my AF and want to buy an air shock (still keeping the coil), seeing good deals on the DPX2 from V1's out there.

  68. #2268
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    No not at all. Itís settled. Iíve been testing between 9 and 11. I was losing traction at times on 11 on loose corners and understeering on bumps at times. 10 stopped it a little but it still happened occasionally. 9 feels planted with excellent traction and no packing on consecutive bumps and trust me where I ride has tonnes of fixed and loose rocks in places.

  69. #2269
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    28
    Anyone tried a 51mm and 44mm offset fork on their ripmo af? I'm using my old fox 36 51mm offset and it feels pretty awesome. Wondering though if it will be Awesomer with a 44mm offset.

  70. #2270
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by momanmatt View Post
    Anyone tried a 51mm and 44mm offset fork on their ripmo af? I'm using my old fox 36 51mm offset and it feels pretty awesome. Wondering though if it will be Awesomer with a 44mm offset.
    The Diamond fork has a 44mm offset. Feels fine to me

  71. #2271
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Not my best work. But works pretty good and survived a jarring ride this morning.

    I stuck about 8 of these shark fins on the chain stay at first but later on decided only 4 are needed. You donít really need any near the front since the chain never slaps down up front- only rear and middle.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  72. #2272
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    How bad is the KS dropper? The NX cassette and the dropper are what makes me second guess the NX model.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  73. #2273
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    The dropper is honestly fine it's just a lame lever. Can get a new lever. Nx is fine for what it is. I'm just running mine till I smash it off. I think the nx doesnt use the sram XD driver tho which sucks

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  74. #2274
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    The dropper is honestly fine it's just a lame lever. Can get a new lever. Nx is fine for what it is. I'm just running mine till I smash it off. I think the nx doesnt use the sram XD driver tho which sucks

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    Yeah. It's the driver thing that I also dislike

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  75. #2275
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    14

    Boost or nonboost cranks

    Anyone know if the rimpo af nx eagle uses the dub boost or non-boost cranks?

  76. #2276
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by ecbp View Post
    Anyone know if the rimpo af nx eagle uses the dub boost or non-boost cranks?
    Dub Boost on mine

  77. #2277
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    14
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by XyesterdayX View Post
    Dub Boost on mine

  78. #2278
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217

    Ripmo AF Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    How bad is the KS dropper? The NX cassette and the dropper are what makes me second guess the NX model.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    My experience with Sram so far on 2 bikes has been 0 for 2. Their x01 and above cassettes are a thing of beauty but anything with moving parts I stay the heck away.

    The X1 11 spd derailuer I excitedly upgraded to when it first came out started creaking after 6 months. Followed Pinkbikeís article on how to grease the clutch mechanism and I swear the housing cracked as we were trying to get the clutch cover open with a small pick.

    Today my wife had to make it back to the trail head stuck in the 11th largest cog of her 12 speed Sram system because the SX shifter that came on her bike jammed. Jammed! Quick research online and seems like this is a known issue. Not so sure about the next level up- NXs. But Iíve never had this happen on any of my Shimano shifters. 1 more month before the warranty expires so Iím bringing her bike in to get looked at.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  79. #2279
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    268
    Quote Originally Posted by momanmatt View Post
    Anyone tried a 51mm and 44mm offset fork on their ripmo af? I'm using my old fox 36 51mm offset and it feels pretty awesome. Wondering though if it will be Awesomer with a 44mm offset.
    .

    51mm offset Lyrik. Makes the bike a little quicker handling than stock offset. A little less stable at speed, theoretically.

  80. #2280
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by kmj831 View Post
    .

    51mm offset Lyrik. Makes the bike a little quicker handling than stock offset. A little less stable at speed, theoretically.
    Isnít it the other way around. Doesnít a 44mm offset bring the wheel under the bike more giving it a slightly shorter wheelbase therefore making it turn a little quicker and 51mm make it longer therefore Slowing down the turn in but adding stability at speed or downhill.

  81. #2281
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pasqual Tonzola's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Isnít it the other way around. Doesnít a 44mm offset bring the wheel under the bike more giving it a slightly shorter wheelbase therefore making it turn a little quicker and 51mm make it longer therefore Slowing down the turn in but adding stability at speed or downhill.
    As far as I understand it the 51mm off set makes the steering quicker at slow speed and less stable at high speed. Has more to do with the trail number though. Iím sure someone who is more knowledgeable can chime in. Iím just parroting what Iíve multiple times.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  82. #2282
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    138
    Quote Originally Posted by Pasqual Tonzola View Post
    As far as I understand it the 51mm off set makes the steering quicker at slow speed and less stable at high speed. Has more to do with the trail number though. Iím sure someone who is more knowledgeable can chime in. Iím just parroting what Iíve multiple times.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This is essentially correct


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  83. #2283
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    [QUOTE=Pasqual Tonzola;14751703]As far as I understand it the 51mm off set makes the steering quicker at slow speed and less stable at high speed. Has more to do with the trail number though. Iím sure someone who is more knowledgeable can chime in. Iím just parroting what Iíve multiple times.

    You are correct my train of thought was much too simplistic. I just did some reading/learning. While a reduced offset fork actually does bring the wheel closer to the bike it also increases the trail which makes the front end more stable feeling but also slightly slower steering and because of the slacker head angles bikes are now coming out with percentage wise it actually makes a bigger difference to the trail than a steeper head angle.

  84. #2284
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    My experience with Sram so far on 2 bikes has been 0 for 2. Their x01 and above cassettes are a thing of beauty but anything with moving parts I stay the heck away.

    The X1 11 spd derailuer I excitedly upgraded to when it first came out started creaking after 6 months. Followed Pinkbikeís article on how to grease the clutch mechanism and I swear the housing cracked as we were trying to get the clutch cover open with a small pick.

    Today my wife had to make it back to the trail head stuck in the 11th largest cog of her 12 speed Sram system because the SX shifter that came on her bike jammed. Jammed! Quick research online and seems like this is a known issue. Not so sure about the next level up- NXs. But Iíve never had this happen on any of my Shimano shifters. 1 more month before the warranty expires so Iím bringing her bike in to get looked at.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've said it before, but I'll crow about it again... My first sram experience in a decade, and my NX derailleur clutch gave up the ghost in under 3 months of occasional riding. They must be made of cheese.

  85. #2285
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    That sucks. I've had a X1 11speed system on my fuel Ex and it has been wonderful.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  86. #2286
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    Yeah I cant say anything bad about Nx for what it costs. I've put two through the ringer for two seasons

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  87. #2287
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    How bad is the KS dropper? The NX cassette and the dropper are what makes me second guess the NX model.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    I think the NX will be ok, just a bit heavy. If you're not super into SRAM then have a look at the Shimano M5100 11-51t 1x11 drivetrain as a replacement, which negates the need to change the freehub. I wouldn't lose any sleep over 11t over 10t at the top end.

    You can even use the NX crank as it's 1x11 and not 1x12 (which I understand needs the new Shimano 12 speed chainrings for best performance). The KS dropper will also be fine IMO.

    The worst part about the NX build is the brakeset IMO. I'd be swapping those out for a set of any 4-piston Shimano brakes personally.

  88. #2288
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by ninjamoose161 View Post
    You can even use the NX crank as it's 1x11 and not 1x12 (which I understand needs the new Shimano 12 speed chainrings for best performance).
    Shimano's new shifting performance comes from the chain/cassette interaction, so I would suggest that running the stock Sram ring would only affect chain retention. Shifting performance would still be great with the Deore 12 spd chain/cassette/shifter.

  89. #2289
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    I'm pretty much a Sram fanboi. So if I go NX, I'll replace with higher end Sram.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  90. #2290
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    Yeah. It's the driver thing that I also dislike

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    I wouldn't sweat the driver thing since 12 speed is heavy and finicky. When it wears out, you could replaced it with 11 speed Shimano (there's a new wide range 11-51 setup), Box or Microshift. There's also a new 10 speed 11-46 Shimano which is cool.

    Thinking about the fork oil, has anyone told DVO about this? I'll check mine but it feels pretty good as-is so I'm guessing it's not dry. If it was dry, I'd be calling DVO with a warranty complaint. To me that's like getting a new car missing oil in something and I'd be wanting an extended warranty or a replacement. If they care about their brand, they should be all over this issue. I've probably got 50+ rides on my AF and the lifespan of my fork has been seriously reduced if it's been dry this whole time.

    Also, I don't even think dropping the legs fully is needed just drain and refill. I might just pop the bottoms loose then pull the lower down a bit but not remove them. Measure what oil comes out if any, then flip bike over, fill and torque the nuts. Keep the bike upside down overnight to soak the foam rings.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  91. #2291
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Thinking about the fork oil, has anyone told DVO about this? I'll check mine but it feels pretty good as-is so I'm guessing it's not dry. If it was dry, I'd be calling DVO with a warranty complaint. To me that's like getting a new car missing oil in something and I'd be wanting an extended warranty or a replacement. If they care about their brand, they should be all over this issue. I've probably got 50+ rides on my AF and the lifespan of my fork has been seriously reduced if it's been dry this whole time.

    Also, I don't even think dropping the legs fully is needed just drain and refill. I might just pop the bottoms loose then pull the lower down a bit but not remove them. Measure what oil comes out if any, then flip bike over, fill and torque the nuts. Keep the bike upside down overnight to soak the foam rings.
    I've actually emailed DVO about this issue, after hearing so many people on here talk about the lowers being dry. They responded, said they'd have a look, and thanked me for the heads up. I'm sure they've spoken to a number of people on this thread already though.

    This is by no means an excuse for DVO, but every major fork manufacturer has this same or similar assembly QC issues at some point during production. Just first-hand, I've had friends that had issues with Fox, Rockshox, Manitou, and DVO. I agree this is unacceptable for such a high-end product, but I also know that this is not just a DVO problem (although I think the later RAF builds seem to be affected by a bad batch).

    My Diamond worked well (like your's), and I also suspected it had been assembled with oil. That was correct, although it probably had about half of what is spec'd. I would say it's good to drop the lowers when you're doing the lower service, just so you can be sure all the oil is out, and to re-lube the seals and bushings again (might as well).

  92. #2292
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,195
    Thanks for sharing your setup and perspective on how everything is working for your riding.

    I rode a trail for first time on the AF yesterday that i consider the "humbler or equalizer" due to its combo of chunk and square edge, slab, sand/pebbles, roots, trail chatter and chunder... its really the trail to gauge how close the setup is - good or bad...

    Fork - Lyrik Uti has been truly set/forget w only 1 click of rebound change and slight PSI adjust since installed. Best fork I've ridden. Has really balanced the bike and handling in a true quick fix kinda way. 1 bottomless token. 62.5 PSI. Rebound 9 from closed. Open LSC/HSC. I did run 1 click HSC for a while yesterday. Went back to open before end of ride. Fork rides high, yet supple and does nothing wrong/bad. Really balances the bike and handles every scenario.

    Shock - i've been running the shock a bit lighter - lower PSI and faster rebound. 1 spacer in + side, 1 in - side. This trail showed me where bottom out finally was and also required me to start slowing rebound. I was at 147 PSI and 2 clicks from full open rebound. Will go back to 150psi and keep rebound where i landed yesterday at 4 from open and tweak from there. Candidly was prob sitting at about 33% sag- but the DW stil works ver well even sitting deep.

  93. #2293
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by ninjamoose161 View Post
    I think the NX will be ok, just a bit heavy. If you're not super into SRAM then have a look at the Shimano M5100 11-51t 1x11 drivetrain as a replacement, which negates the need to change the freehub. I wouldn't lose any sleep over 11t over 10t at the top end.

    You can even use the NX crank as it's 1x11 and not 1x12 (which I understand needs the new Shimano 12 speed chainrings for best performance). The KS dropper will also be fine IMO.

    The worst part about the NX build is the brakeset IMO. I'd be swapping those out for a set of any 4-piston Shimano brakes personally.
    +1 for this. I put XT 11 spd 11-46 on rear and 28 raceface chainring on my other bike last year as it was half the price of going GX.

    On the AF I have the stock NX set-up. The XT shifts much better. 11sp XT is a good option when trying to keep cost down without losing much range.

  94. #2294
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    Prospective buyer here, after going through this entire thread i have a couple quick questions.

    1. Does anyone race theirs (Especially with air shock)? I do a couple local enduro races for a team and am wondering if there is a setup that temporarily dials out the pop. For the record I want that pop for the 75% I am not racing or training thats why i dont want to go with the spring.

    2. What are the feelings about the S35 aluminum wheels? From the best i can tell from research the hoops are rebranded Stans Barrons but how are the hubs (particularly the rear) holding up? Should i be planning on a wheel build soon after?

    I have litebike carbons (30mm) on DT240s on my current Spesh Enduro 29er and they feel great and put my 2.6 front and 2.4 rear in a nice shape. But they are non boost or else i would just swap them over.

    3. What is the longest dropper anyone has been able to run all the way down to the seat collar on a Medium? Looking at the website it shows a much shorter minimum on a 125 then on a 150 which makes me think that you cant slam a 150. I have short legs and not being able to fully sink a 150 would stink since i can do that one both my enduro and stumpjumper.

    My current plans is to get the NX build, put on the Zee brakes and icetech rotors from my current bike, an X1 carbon crank set i have in the parts bin, and swap to 12 spd XT groupset.

    If anyone also rides a trek slash or fuel ex id love to hear your thoughts comparing them. I ride for a local trek team and has access to a pretty good discount so it feels weird looking at a full price bike instead of either of those but by all accounts the ripmo sounds like the perfect middle between those two.

  95. #2295
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    Wow i just checked my two bikes and I am down to 510mm and 520mm with 150 droppers on both. Assuming the same ideal height from BB (635mm) i would need a fox 100mm, that doesnt seem right?

  96. #2296
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Thanks for sharing your setup and perspective on how everything is working for your riding.

    I rode a trail for first time on the AF yesterday that i consider the "humbler or equalizer" due to its combo of chunk and square edge, slab, sand/pebbles, roots, trail chatter and chunder... its really the trail to gauge how close the setup is - good or bad...

    Fork - Lyrik Uti has been truly set/forget w only 1 click of rebound change and slight PSI adjust since installed. Best fork I've ridden. Has really balanced the bike and handling in a true quick fix kinda way. 1 bottomless token. 62.5 PSI. Rebound 9 from closed. Open LSC/HSC. I did run 1 click HSC for a while yesterday. Went back to open before end of ride. Fork rides high, yet supple and does nothing wrong/bad. Really balances the bike and handles every scenario.

    Shock - i've been running the shock a bit lighter - lower PSI and faster rebound. 1 spacer in + side, 1 in - side. This trail showed me where bottom out finally was and also required me to start slowing rebound. I was at 147 PSI and 2 clicks from full open rebound. Will go back to 150psi and keep rebound where i landed yesterday at 4 from open and tweak from there. Candidly was prob sitting at about 33% sag- but the DW stil works ver well even sitting deep.
    Your set up on the Lyrik is virtually identical to what I was running. I ran mine at 64 psi everything else including rebound was the same. It was a 160mm travel. Amazingly plush fork but like Iíve said before not as poppy as the DVO but that could be the bike as well. I canít remember how many times I said out loud during a ride GET F#@KED when I went over something that I expected to be rough and it just soaked it up like it was barely there. They are impressive.
    With my current shock set up which is very close to what you did to yours 150 psi same spacer set up and 4 clicks of rebound from closed , I sometimes use 5 from closed if itís really chattery terrain, Iím using all the shaft travel bar 3mm. Thatís measured but because it is always in exactly the same place at the end of every ride I suspect thatís actually bottomed out but I never feel it bottom out.
    The bike feels super balanced suspension wise front to rear. Iím not getting any obvious kicks from one end or the other. IE they both respond in a similar way a similar amount to what I would expect from a given impact. Drop offs and landings are a thing of beauty. VERY smooth and controlled. Iím super happy with that aspect of the handling.
    What offset Lyrik did you fit I canít remember if you mentioned it previously or not. I noticed itís not available in the same offset as the DVO and also Fox. Did you notice any difference in the handling or steering either way with the different offset. Itís one thing Iíve thought about a bit because I would be reluctant to change much that way because the bike is so damn good at everything I donít really want to sacrifice anything to prioritise something else. I recon Ibis has nailed the geometry numbers with this set up they have.

  97. #2297
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Your set up on the Lyrik is virtually identical to what I was running. I ran mine at 64 psi everything else including rebound was the same. It was a 160mm travel. Amazingly plush fork but like Iíve said before not as poppy as the DVO but that could be the bike as well. I canít remember how many times I said out loud during a ride GET F#@KED when I went over something that I expected to be rough and it just soaked it up like it was barely there. They are impressive.
    With my current shock set up which is very close to what you did to yours 150 psi same spacer set up and 4 clicks of rebound from closed , I sometimes use 5 from closed if itís really chattery terrain, Iím using all the shaft travel bar 3mm. Thatís measured but because it is always in exactly the same place at the end of every ride I suspect thatís actually bottomed out but I never feel it bottom out.
    The bike feels super balanced suspension wise front to rear. Iím not getting any obvious kicks from one end or the other. IE they both respond in a similar way a similar amount to what I would expect from a given impact. Drop offs and landings are a thing of beauty. VERY smooth and controlled. Iím super happy with that aspect of the handling.
    What offset Lyrik did you fit I canít remember if you mentioned it previously or not. I noticed itís not available in the same offset as the DVO and also Fox. Did you notice any difference in the handling or steering either way with the different offset. Itís one thing Iíve thought about a bit because I would be reluctant to change much that way because the bike is so damn good at everything I donít really want to sacrifice anything to prioritise something else. I recon Ibis has nailed the geometry numbers with this set up they have.
    Which Lyrik are you guys running? Is the select worth it or go no lower than select +?

  98. #2298
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    That sucks. I've had a X1 11speed system on my fuel Ex and it has been wonderful.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Check with your shop to see if they will swap out what you donít like. My shop swapped the dropper out for a 185mm bike yoke and guide R brakes for a reasonable up charge. Both of these upgrades have been awesome. I went with the NX because Iím cheap lol.I took what many people said to heart and figured I would ride out the nx stuff, assess, then upgrade as things as needed. Iíll take a hard look at the new Deore 12 speed drivetrain after some reviews come in. Iím looking for value, which the nx build has in spades. I could even buy another lightweight 30mm wheelset with trail tires and be ahead.

  99. #2299
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Which Lyrik are you guys running? Is the select worth it or go no lower than select +?
    My Pseudo Lyrik, Yari upgraded to 2020 Lyrik Ultimate internals both sides with Racing Bros fork seals, was on a previous bike that I replaced with the AF. Same front end geo bar 0.1 of a degree. So very similar but canít give you the direct feedback as accurately as what Kamper11 can. As far as the fork goes though I couldnít fault it. It was AMAZING how plush it was. Nothing could upset the front end. Tree root or rock mid corner pfft. Even loose ones. The front end traction was incredible. Only downside I can see is that it stayed on the ground and followed the terrain that well that it was less inclined to leave the ground and pop off the top of things than the DVO fork. Whether thatís a plus or a negative depends on what you value. As far as Select vs Select+ vs Ultimate. My only basis for comparison is my Mrs has a Pike Select on her bike. Whether that can be cross referenced I donít know but there is no comparison to the Lyrik Ultimate. Select+ may be as good as the Ultimate with less adjustments to get lost in I donít know but for me If I was to change over from the DVO the way Iíve managed to get it set up now I wouldnít even compromise it would be the Ultimate or nothing.

  100. #2300
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    To the SLX folks on here, any of you having issues with the chain coming off the upper jockey wheel?

    The first time this happened, I realized my derailuer hanger bolt actually fell off causing the derailuer to be loose. The second time this happened again this past weekend, I checked the derailuer hanger bolt is there, took off chain to eyeball the alignment of the upper jockey wheel to the smallest cog. This is the part that is weird. Shimanoís manual says line up the center of the jockey wheel (when viewing from rear) to the outer flange of the smallest cog but the best I could do was to line up to the center of the cog, canít go further without running out of Hi Stop adjustments.

    Readjusted B-tension, indexing and it feels good on the stand but havenít had a chance to test it out on the trails. Iím thinking my derailuer cage may have been ever so slightly bent, no visual indication of impacts from rocks. Or maybe itís my near sight getting worse and did not eyeball the jockey wheel to smallest cog correctly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  101. #2301
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    To the SLX folks on here, any of you having issues with the chain coming off the upper jockey wheel?

    The first time this happened, I realized my derailuer hanger bolt actually fell off causing the derailuer to be loose. The second time this happened again this past weekend, I checked the derailuer hanger bolt is there, took off chain to eyeball the alignment of the upper jockey wheel to the smallest cog. This is the part that is weird. Shimanoís manual says line up the center of the jockey wheel (when viewing from rear) to the outer flange of the smallest cog but the best I could do was to line up to the center of the cog, canít go further without running out of Hi Stop adjustments.

    Readjusted B-tension, indexing and it feels good on the stand but havenít had a chance to test it out on the trails. Iím thinking my derailuer cage may have been ever so slightly bent, no visual indication of impacts from rocks. Or maybe itís my near sight getting worse and did not eyeball the jockey wheel to smallest cog correctly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Nope never had an issue with my SLX derailleur. How are you running out of adjustment on the hi low screws? If itís in the smallest cog, adjust your low screw out a little bit but also let some cable tension out so you get a real adjustment. I suspect itís getting hung up if your cable tension is too tight. Also check the alignment of your derailleur hangar, you may need to take it to a shop for this. Looking from the back of the bike the derailleur wheels should be to the right of the smallest cog just a little bit. Youíll know when itís in the right spot when pedaling it makes no noise.

    Mine works great though! I have less cable tension on it than I thought Iíd need but it works flawlessly.

  102. #2302
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    2. What are the feelings about the S35 aluminum wheels? From the best i can tell from research the hoops are rebranded Stans Barrons but how are the hubs (particularly the rear) holding up? Should i be planning on a wheel build soon after?

    I have litebike carbons (30mm) on DT240s on my current Spesh Enduro 29er and they feel great and put my 2.6 front and 2.4 rear in a nice shape. But they are non boost or else i would just swap them over.
    The S35's are good aluminum rims. I don't believe they are rebranded Stans, because the S35 have a very offset spoke angle. Having a look at the Stans you reference, and they aren't the same. I can't compare them to carbon rims, as I've never run them. The rear hub has pretty traditional engagement (not super quick), so if anything, that's where some people wouldn't get along with them, but it doesn't bother me. The rear hub is good quality though, comes with enduro bearings, and can be upgraded to an XD driver or Microspline freehub body, if you like.

  103. #2303
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    1
    Hey All greetings from the UK - so after much deliberation I now have a coil RAF on order from the US - Ive been running an MRP Coil Ribbon on my Capra and adore it -has anyone had an experience of the fork/shock combo on this bike as im seriously tempted about swapping out off the bat .. Sadly im 27.5 atm so can't try my existing one. Cheers

  104. #2304
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Dropped my lowers to check/replace the oil, so a quick update.

    I've been very happy with my Diamond, so I suspected that mine was likely assembled with oil in the lowers. That was the case, and it was also well lubed with Slickoleum, BUT there definitely wasn't the spec amount of oil. After measuring what was in the bucket, I would guess about 30cc between both sides, so about half the spec amount. That's accounting for the remaining oil coating the inside surfaces of lowers, and the bucket after I drained it, and still being liberal on that count.

    I used Fox Gold 20 Wt, as that was what my local Suspension shop recommended (authorized DVO service center). Feels about the same on the floor, but we'll see when I hit the trails. I suspect it will probably feel the same, but perhaps a slight difference with slipperier bath oil.
    For anyone servicing the lowers on the DVO Diamond, I would suggest Fox Gold as the oil. After doing mine this weekend, it was MUCH happier to smash things on my ride yesterday. Luckily, the fork has felt good in the 4 months I've had the bike, but it definitely feels better with that Gold in there. My local suspension shop (SuspensionWerx) recommended that, and I'm glad they did.

  105. #2305
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,195
    So i went w a 42mm offset Lyrik Ulti - in hindsight - maybe going w 46 would have been the best option - yet i cant seem to find any downside... its like the movie Mr Mom - 220, 221 - wahtever it takes.. or in this case 42, 44 - whatever it takes.

    BD - Select plus would prob be fine - but you have to find a takeoff as it's an OEM version. Unless you can grab some screaming deal on a select or Yari - i' did the math and doesnt make sense to buy em at retail than upgrade to make an ultimate - i also got my new ulti dscounted via my shop guy as i do a decent amount of business w him and pay him cash...

  106. #2306
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by bdreynolds7 View Post
    Nope never had an issue with my SLX derailleur. How are you running out of adjustment on the hi low screws? If itís in the smallest cog, adjust your low screw out a little bit but also let some cable tension out so you get a real adjustment. I suspect itís getting hung up if your cable tension is too tight. Also check the alignment of your derailleur hangar, you may need to take it to a shop for this. Looking from the back of the bike the derailleur wheels should be to the right of the smallest cog just a little bit. Youíll know when itís in the right spot when pedaling it makes no noise.

    Mine works great though! I have less cable tension on it than I thought Iíd need but it works flawlessly.
    The Lo screw is perfect. Itís the Hi adjustment. The slag was taken out a tad and it shifts perfect. However, I just cannot get the upper jockey wheel to line up to the outer flange of the smallest cog as the Hi screw ran out of adjustment and the arm stopped moving outwards. Iím thinking the cage may have been bent slightly when I lost my hanger bolt. Yup gonna have to take her in unfortunately.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  107. #2307
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    I wonder if BKXC is on here. He's got the Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate and Lyrik Ultimate on his V2. We need a ride review of that compared to his old V1! How plush is it? His build would be my ideal with the exception of the AXS and Reverb. Here's the build sheet:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...GRI/edit#gid=0
    2020 Ripmo AF

  108. #2308
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    36
    hi guys
    anyone know the alloy handlebar specs? sweep and rise ?

    I'm trying to figure out something with more rise to try out.
    -thanks
    RB

  109. #2309
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    2020 Ripmo AF

  110. #2310
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    The Lo screw is perfect. Itís the Hi adjustment. The slag was taken out a tad and it shifts perfect. However, I just cannot get the upper jockey wheel to line up to the outer flange of the smallest cog as the Hi screw ran out of adjustment and the arm stopped moving outwards. Iím thinking the cage may have been bent slightly when I lost my hanger bolt. Yup gonna have to take her in unfortunately.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    With no pressure from the cable and Hi screw backed out, it seems like the only thing left could be something got bent (as you suspect). I had this happen on my kid's bike and was able to see from the rear that the derailleur hanger was slightly bent. I was able to bend it back so stuff lined up and it worked fine. On the XT 11 sp I just had to line up the pulley wheel with the smallest cog. Never heard of having to line up past/outside that, but maybe that's unique to 12 spd.

  111. #2311
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    For anyone servicing the lowers on the DVO Diamond, I would suggest Fox Gold as the oil. After doing mine this weekend, it was MUCH happier to smash things on my ride yesterday. Luckily, the fork has felt good in the 4 months I've had the bike, but it definitely feels better with that Gold in there. My local suspension shop (SuspensionWerx) recommended that, and I'm glad they did.
    What weight of fox gold did you use?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  112. #2312
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    Not DVO but hereís a good quick video on changing lower fluid. Fox mechanic uses 20wt.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxma...&feature=share
    2020 Ripmo AF

  113. #2313
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    40
    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    What weight of fox gold did you use?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    20WT Fox Gold

  114. #2314
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    Assume you could get GX build for about 400 bucks less. How would that weight against an NX with the carbon wheels? NX + carbon wheels would be about 400 bucks more

  115. #2315
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    I, personally, would take carbon wheels and replace the drivetrain later.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  116. #2316
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    3

    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Harsh bottom outs

    Has anyone been bottoming out pretty hard? Iíve noticed on 4-5í drops to flat and flatter jumps that I am bottoming out so hard I am bouncing off the bottom out bumper and it makes a loud clunk. I wasnít noticing any hard bottom outs before a couple weeks ago on similar features. I am 175 lb fully kitted. This doesnít seem normal for a shock like this.

    Topaz settings:
    Main air can: 175 psi
    bladder: 180 psi
    3 positive spacers
    0 negative

  117. #2317
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Spooledup View Post
    20WT Fox Gold
    Correct. I believe that is the only weight that is branded "Gold", and that's what they use in the lowers of modern Fox forks. It's quite thick and slippery, so it coats and slides very well.

  118. #2318
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by mountainless-biking View Post
    Has anyone been bottoming out pretty hard? Iíve noticed on 4-5í drops to flat and flatter jumps that I am bottoming out so hard I am bouncing off the bottom out bumper and it makes a loud clunk. I wasnít noticing any hard bottom outs before a couple weeks ago on similar features. I am 175 lb fully kitted. This doesnít seem normal for a shock like this.

    Topaz settings:
    Main air can: 175 psi
    bladder: 180 psi
    3 positive spacers
    0 negative
    I was finding the same thing, and I'm only slightly heavier than you. After I installed all 3 volume spacers in the positive side, it was still bottoming a bit. I decided to up the main pressure to between 183-185, depending on what I'm riding, and that did the trick. I reduced the bladder to 175 for a more supple stroke throughout, and the added air pressure in the main chamber took care of everything else.

  119. #2319
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    I was finding the same thing, and I'm only slightly heavier than you. After I installed all 3 volume spacers in the positive side, it was still bottoming a bit. I decided to up the main pressure to between 183-185, depending on what I'm riding, and that did the trick. I reduced the bladder to 175 for a more supple stroke throughout, and the added air pressure in the main chamber took care of everything else.
    Glad Iím not the only one haha. Iíll try that on the next ride and see. I was worried about going too high in the main can but thatís a good idea lowering bladder.

  120. #2320
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by mountainless-biking View Post
    Glad Iím not the only one haha. Iíll try that on the next ride and see. I was worried about going too high in the main can but thatís a good idea lowering bladder.
    Sorry, I should correct my previous post. I settled on 185-187psi. But since I'm about 180 lbs kitted, 183-185 is probably proportionally close for you.

  121. #2321
    sonoranbiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    494
    Quote Originally Posted by reginald View Post
    hi guys
    anyone know the alloy handlebar specs? sweep and rise ?

    I'm trying to figure out something with more rise to try out.
    -thanks
    RB
    I swapped out the stock bar with their carbon Hi Rise bar. Same up/bacl sweep but with more rise. Plus a nifty set of aluminum inserts that you can trim down and replace if you go too short. I ran mine at 800mm for a while before trimming them down to 780mm.

  122. #2322
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Spooledup View Post
    20WT Fox Gold
    Anyone directly compared this with running the Golden Spectro in the Diamond?

    Side note: Ordered Spectro and decided to change out the oil in an older Marzocchi 55 RC3 fork first. Found an old Marz video with Ronnie (Now at DVO and in their videos) using the same Golden Spectro in the Marz. Could be that the fork is designed with Spectro in mind, or just simply that's what the people involved have always used and therefore they stick with what they know/works.

  123. #2323
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    Assume you could get GX build for about 400 bucks less. How would that weight against an NX with the carbon wheels? NX + carbon wheels would be about 400 bucks more
    You can get the wheel weights from their website. Personally I don't think they're worth it because it's not that much if you're keeping with Ibis hubs. You can save 3/4 lb with just regular EXO tires like a DHF/Dissector, DHRII/Dissector, etc. As for NX vs GX, that depends on what you want o upgrade later. I got $700 off my bike so went GX and haven't had to upgrade anything, which was nice. I think it'd be cool to go NX but ask your shop if you could go with their 30mm wheels and see if they'll swap your post to a Oneup 210mm and the brakes for something other than Guides. After getting the bike, sell off the NX as new and install the new wide-range Shimano Deore 10 or 11 speed and let us know if it's any good! No need to swap the hub driver with those.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  124. #2324
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Correct. I believe that is the only weight that is branded "Gold", and that's what they use in the lowers of modern Fox forks. It's quite thick and slippery, so it coats and slides very well.
    Good to know. Since the Lyrik is kind of the gold standard for plush right now, here's what they use:

    Ripmo AF Thread-rockshox-oil-2.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-rockshox-oil.jpg
    2020 Ripmo AF

  125. #2325
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by mountainless-biking View Post
    Has anyone been bottoming out pretty hard? Iíve noticed on 4-5í drops to flat and flatter jumps that I am bottoming out so hard I am bouncing off the bottom out bumper and it makes a loud clunk. I wasnít noticing any hard bottom outs before a couple weeks ago on similar features. I am 175 lb fully kitted. This doesnít seem normal for a shock like this.

    Topaz settings:
    Main air can: 175 psi
    bladder: 180 psi
    3 positive spacers
    0 negative
    Yep. I just have to run tons of pressure. I have 4 tokens on the positive side and run about 10-15 psi over body weight.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  126. #2326
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Anyone directly compared this with running the Golden Spectro in the Diamond?

    Side note: Ordered Spectro and decided to change out the oil in an older Marzocchi 55 RC3 fork first. Found an old Marz video with Ronnie (Now at DVO and in their videos) using the same Golden Spectro in the Marz. Could be that the fork is designed with Spectro in mind, or just simply that's what the people involved have always used and therefore they stick with what they know/works.
    I can't speak for DVO, but SuspensionWerx (local) is my closest authorized DVO service center, they are very reputable, and they recommended Fox Gold as what they would use. They said "because it makes forks so much smoother".

    Comparing to what was supplied stock, the Fox Gold feels better. Fox developed 20Wt Gold after the old Marz days, and you can't use it in an open bath damper, so I wouldn't put much "weight" into the old video you found. DVO may have their own reasons for using a non-Fox product in their forks.

  127. #2327
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    I'm thinking I'll just to NX and upgrade as shit breaks

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  128. #2328
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    I can't speak for DVO, but SuspensionWerx (local) is my closest authorized DVO service center, they are very reputable, and they recommended Fox Gold as what they would use. They said "because it makes forks so much smoother".

    Comparing to what was supplied stock, the Fox Gold feels better. Fox developed 20Wt Gold after the old Marz days, and you can't use it in an open bath damper, so I wouldn't put much "weight" into the old video you found. DVO may have their own reasons for using a non-Fox product in their forks.
    Found an older article of suspensionwerx servicing a DVO diamond. Would have been a better article if the author remembered to bring his camera along for some pictures, but some good tips regardless.

    https://nsmb.com/articles/uncle-dave...amond-denuded/

  129. #2329
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Found an older article of suspensionwerx servicing a DVO diamond. Would have been a better article if the author remembered to bring his camera along for some pictures, but some good tips regardless.

    https://nsmb.com/articles/uncle-dave...amond-denuded/
    That's handy, I hadn't read this one. I'm a regular reader of Andrew Major's (NSMB and MeatEngines), and trust me, his more recent "tear-down" articles are very thorough (including pictures). Too bad they didn't mention the oil they used, but I guarantee it was Fox Gold.

    Then in the long term review, Dave talks about how the fork was much more plush after the rebuild, and needed to up his compression settings and air pressure from his base settings. I did find myself upping my LSC by a half-click, and HSC by a quarter turn, but my air spring remained the same.
    https://nsmb.com/articles/dvo-diamon...term-review-2/

  130. #2330
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42

    Dent in alloy near chainring

    Just found out a nasty dent in the alloy of the chainstay near chainring after my ride today... From the depth it has it cant be a rock and cant be chain either! Wtf happened?? I ride hard but can frame flex really go this far and chainring dig in chainstay!?!?

    When I compress the shock, chainring move away from chainstay....

    Anyone can help me here, my mind cannot process this?? Bike has maybe 6-7 ride, never did something like that happened on my 2017 stumpjumper..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-20200520_185213.jpg  

    Ripmo AF Thread-20200520_185126.jpg  


  131. #2331
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    That's handy, I hadn't read this one. I'm a regular reader of Andrew Major's (NSMB and MeatEngines), and trust me, his more recent "tear-down" articles are very thorough (including pictures). Too bad they didn't mention the oil they used, but I guarantee it was Fox Gold.

    Then in the long term review, Dave talks about how the fork was much more plush after the rebuild, and needed to up his compression settings and air pressure from his base settings. I did find myself upping my LSC by a half-click, and HSC by a quarter turn, but my air spring remained the same.
    https://nsmb.com/articles/dvo-diamon...term-review-2/
    Good articles! Sounds like I may pick up some Fox Gold next. Oils a pretty cheap way to experiment.

    Anyone just take out the foam rings? Iíve heard that it can be better to remove them if you donít stay on top of the service to relubricate them.

  132. #2332
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    Just found out a nasty dent in the alloy of the chainstay near chainring after my ride today... From the depth it has it cant be a rock and cant be chain either! Wtf happened?? I ride hard but can frame flex really go this far and chainring dig in chainstay!?!?

    When I compress the shock, chainring move away from chainstay....

    Anyone can help me here, my mind cannot process this?? Bike has maybe 6-7 ride, never did something like that happened on my 2017 stumpjumper..
    Someone earlier also posted about this area been susceptible to gouges/ chips. Which prompted me to inspect mine closely 2 months ago...



    The same exact spot as yours too! Though mine wasnít as bad.

    Itís been a mystery to me as well how this could happen. Iím thinking itís the crud and debris the chain ring picked up spinning clockwise and flinging them onto that part of the chain stay on a consistent basis.

    Several of us have since put our mastic tape to good use in that area.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  133. #2333
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    138
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Someone earlier also posted about this area been susceptible to gouges/ chips. Which prompted me to inspect mine closely 2 months ago...



    The same exact spot as yours too! Though mine wasnít as bad.

    Itís been a mystery to me as well how this could happen. Iím thinking itís the crud and debris the chain ring picked up spinning clockwise and flinging them onto that part of the chain stay on a consistent basis.

    Several of us have since put our mastic tape to good use in that area.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    mastic electrical tape from a sparky at work (electrician for you yanks)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-one-up-.jpg  


  134. #2334
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    mastic electrical tape from a sparky at work (electrician for you yanks)
    Ok thanks guys I ll put some... Just worried that if it was chainring rub mastic will not spot it going through, but hopefully its just rock/ debris that is getting cough in there

  135. #2335
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    Ok thanks guys I ll put some... Just worried that if it was chainring rub mastic will not spot it going through, but hopefully its just rock/ debris that is getting cough in there
    Give it a whirl. Mines been holding up. The mastic material does very well against debris rash. Which tells me itís not the chain ring teeth contacting.

    While youíre at it, make sure the underside is covered too, another susceptible area due to chain slap.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  136. #2336
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    I stand corrected. Right after I posted the above, went to lube my chain and noticed mastic over that same area IS wearing through!

    Like you said, pushing down on the rear shock only moves that part of the chain stay away from the chain ring. So the other possible explanation is rear triangle frame flex in the left-right lateral axis? Itís possible given how small a clearance the teeth is to the chain stay.

    Ugh.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  137. #2337
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    I stand corrected. Right after I posted the above, went to lube my chain and noticed mastic over that same area IS wearing through!

    Like you said, pushing down on the rear shock only moves that part of the chain stay away from the chain ring. So the other possible explanation is rear triangle frame flex in the left-right lateral axis? Itís possible given how small a clearance the teeth is to the chain stay.

    Ugh.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This gives me pause on ordering this bike

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  138. #2338
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    that would need to be a TON of lateral flex for that stay to end up in the teeth, it would feel like a wet noodle. Unless, it only happens on weird sideways landings where it get a big jolt and not under a more gradual load? I am not an owner, just doing research, but it does make me thing there is still some validity in running a 11 speed 42 cassette and 28 chainring instead of a 12 speed 50+ cassette that i can push the chain ring into the 32 range.

  139. #2339
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    36
    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    that would need to be a TON of lateral flex for that stay to end up in the teeth, it would feel like a wet noodle. Unless, it only happens on weird sideways landings where it get a big jolt and not under a more gradual load? ......
    , luckily no damage there yet on mine which only has a handful of mild rides. I'm Still trying to imagine a scenario that would cause that. Could it be a combo of bottomed out and a back pedal getting enough chain slack where the chain kind of wedged in there?

  140. #2340
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    Mine has the same issue. Iím 135 lbs and havenít ridden anything I would consider aggressive as our better trails havenít dried out yet. I canít see myself flexing an aluminum frame at my weight and the trails Iím currently riding.

    I havenít had the chain get wedged there yet on a ride...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-04f6fb2d-3380-4d86-a5b4-78ad47dd4cf3.jpg  


  141. #2341
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Mine has the same issue. Iím 135 lbs and havenít ridden anything I would consider aggressive as our better trails havenít dried out yet. I canít see myself flexing an aluminum frame at my weight and the trails Iím currently riding.

    I havenít had the chain get wedged there yet on a ride...
    Would it be possible this is maintenance caused? I know when I was fudging with my drive train doing initial adjustments and whenever the chain dislodged from the front chain ring, that area there is the natural resting spot for the chain to come down on. Just too weird.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  142. #2342
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    I donít think my chain has ever been off the chain ring. For everyone having a chip at roughly the same location it makes me think that there must be some kind of a clearance issue. There also isnít any other marring on the frame or a tooth of the chain ring as far as I can tell. I sent an email to ibis to let them know about the issue and ask for their insight.

  143. #2343
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Would it be possible this is maintenance caused? I know when I was fudging with my drive train doing initial adjustments and whenever the chain dislodged from the front chain ring, that area there is the natural resting spot for the chain to come down on. Just too weird.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Soory man but your thinking is a bit insane, we pretty much all have new bikes here and never would I have damage any of my multiple bikes doing maintenance with the chaine....

  144. #2344
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    I donít think my chain has ever been off the chain ring. For everyone having a chip at roughly the same location it makes me think that there must be some kind of a clearance issue. There also isnít any other marring on the frame or a tooth of the chain ring as far as I can tell. I sent an email to ibis to let them know about the issue and ask for their insight.
    Please let us know what Ibis says

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  145. #2345
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    94
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    I donít think my chain has ever been off the chain ring. For everyone having a chip at roughly the same location it makes me think that there must be some kind of a clearance issue. There also isnít any other marring on the frame or a tooth of the chain ring as far as I can tell. I sent an email to ibis to let them know about the issue and ask for their insight.
    This is interesting to see so many having this issue... I have a v1 carbon Ripmo with the exact same thing... Pretty good paint chip right where the ring is near the chainstay. I'd be interested to hear a response from Ibis in this. Think I'll try putting some mastic tape there too. I already tried 3m tape I also used on the frame for protection and it has since been destroyed there.

    Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

  146. #2346
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    I have no issues with the problem that everyone is talking about. I am running a One up chain ring protector with a chain guide on the standard 32 tooth chain ring. Possibly rocks are being picked up into that area by the chain ring without the protector being there on your bikes. Just a thought. With how low the BB is on these bikes I wouldnít like to ride without one. It gets used regularly. There is no way the chain stay can have that much side flex. You would definitely feel it. The bike actually feels very stiff chassis wise. Also I have fitted a bash guard on the bottom of the frame. Itís from a Norco Sight and works really well. You just need to shorten it at the BB because itís quite long. Itís a thin high density rubber and sticks on. Looks tidy. I have tried to download some photo's to show what it looks like but for some reason the bloody photo's keep downloading rotated and even upside down sometimes. Can someone tell me why and how to fix it? If I can work out how to fix the photoís I will post them to show you.

  147. #2347
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    5
    Got my second ride in tonight. This bike is a blast. Anyone elses come with a Raceface AEffect 35 bars/stem?

    Headset came loose tonight but that was an easy fix. Also noticing when I'm tired out towards the end of the ride and slugging through punchy rocky trails my hands start to feel a little numb. Thinking maybe I should slide my seat forward or look into trying a shorter stem? Any other thoughts? I think the bike shop may have set this up a tad light too so I may bump my pressures up a little.

  148. #2348
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    Thinking about it, with the number of rocks that the assegais kick up, I wouldnít be surprised if a rock got between the chainring and the frame on a decent. The clearance is tight.

  149. #2349
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by 207carney View Post
    Got my second ride in tonight. This bike is a blast. Anyone elses come with a Raceface AEffect 35 bars/stem?

    Headset came loose tonight but that was an easy fix. Also noticing when I'm tired out towards the end of the ride and slugging through punchy rocky trails my hands start to feel a little numb. Thinking maybe I should slide my seat forward or look into trying a shorter stem? Any other thoughts? I think the bike shop may have set this up a tad light too so I may bump my pressures up a little.
    Is your fork pressure higher and are you running enough OTT? Some folks here complain that the OEM bars from Ibis produce a weird upsweep causing discomfort. For me, I swapped mine out with a Nukeproof but kept the grips that came on it. Been pretty decent, no hand fatigue. Maybe more callous on the hands from the faster speeds going downhill. LOL.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  150. #2350
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by TanMan View Post
    Is your fork pressure higher and are you running enough OTT? Some folks here complain that the OEM bars from Ibis produce a weird upsweep causing discomfort. For me, I swapped mine out with a Nukeproof but kept the grips that came on it. Been pretty decent, no hand fatigue. Maybe more callous on the hands from the faster speeds going downhill. LOL.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I have to go get my shock pump out of my snowmobile and check the pressures. I just told them 175-177 geared and they set it to DVO/Ibis standard specs. I'm probably closer to 180 geared. Tonight was only my second ride on full suspension so I'm trying to pay attention and learn what settings I need to change. I feel like I could potentially use a bit higher pressure in the fork with more OTT, and a small bump in pressure and a small bump in the bladder in the rear.
    2020 Ibis Ripmo AF NX
    2016 Raleigh Tokul 3
    Soma Valhallen

  151. #2351
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by 207carney View Post
    I have to go get my shock pump out of my snowmobile and check the pressures. I just told them 175-177 geared and they set it to DVO/Ibis standard specs. I'm probably closer to 180 geared. Tonight was only my second ride on full suspension so I'm trying to pay attention and learn what settings I need to change. I feel like I could potentially use a bit higher pressure in the fork with more OTT, and a small bump in pressure and a small bump in the bladder in the rear.
    If you dig through this thread you'll get a lot of ideas for settings. Many here run the rebound and HS compression pretty open. If this is your first bike with modern geo, you may notice your hands feel more pressure on flatter trails due to the forward seating position. I'm running Rogue grips but am going to try some Ergons.

    As for the chips by the chainring, yeah there's no way the frame flexes that much, especially near the pivots where it's the stiffest. The frame is very rigid in that area. My OEM rubber guard covers that so no chips yet. The rock throwing Assegais might toss one to get wedged in there. I hear rocks coming off my tires constantly pinging off parts of the bike. Annoying trait of those.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  152. #2352
    Unpredictable
    Reputation: Ridnparadise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,144
    With the chainring rotating forward, how would a rock caught between CR and frame damage the top aspect of the top ridge on the chain stay without touching the bits below? Is it physically possible without a backpedalling rock jam? Also wouldn't the chainring show evidence of the impact?

  153. #2353
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    Possibly because thatís the point where the CR is physically closest to the CS. We are all only guessing at what could be causing it but if a rock the right size was to be kicked up into the CR thatís the point it would hit the CS on exit. To this point I have ridden heaps of loose rocky areas and havenít had this problem. I think itís possibly because of my CR guard that Iím running and that any rock that is small enough to get up there between the guard and the CR would be too small to get jammed between the CR and the CS. Iím only guessing but it seems feasible.

  154. #2354
    Unpredictable
    Reputation: Ridnparadise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,144
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Possibly because thatís the point where the CR is physically closest to the CS. We are all only guessing at what could be causing it but if a rock the right size was to be kicked up into the CR thatís the point it would hit the CS on exit. To this point I have ridden heaps of loose rocky areas and havenít had this problem. I think itís possibly because of my CR guard that Iím running and that any rock that is small enough to get up there between the guard and the CR would be too small to get jammed between the CR and the CS. Iím only guessing but it seems feasible.
    Hopefully in a week when mine arrives I'll be able to see and understand.

  155. #2355
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    I have no issues with the problem that everyone is talking about. I am running a One up chain ring protector with a chain guide on the standard 32 tooth chain ring. Possibly rocks are being picked up into that area by the chain ring without the protector being there on your bikes. Just a thought. With how low the BB is on these bikes I wouldnít like to ride without one. It gets used regularly. There is no way the chain stay can have that much side flex. You would definitely feel it. The bike actually feels very stiff chassis wise. Also I have fitted a bash guard on the bottom of the frame. Itís from a Norco Sight and works really well. You just need to shorten it at the BB because itís quite long. Itís a thin high density rubber and sticks on. Looks tidy. I have tried to download some photo's to show what it looks like but for some reason the bloody photo's keep downloading rotated and even upside down sometimes. Can someone tell me why and how to fix it? If I can work out how to fix the photoís I will post them to show you.
    I run a bash guide also and got a pretty nasty one so no, not related...

  156. #2356
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by PL_MTB View Post
    I run a bash guide also and got a pretty nasty one so no, not related...
    Like I said Iím just guessing seeing as though most of the pics Iíve seen didnít have a bash guard. Maybe Iíve just been lucky and youíve been unlucky. I donít know. What I do know is that I recon there is zero chance that the chain ring is hitting the chain stay. It canít possibly flex that much or else the bike would make a weird right turn every time it happened. The movement at the rear axle would be huge if the front moved that far sideways. The only way to know whatís going on for sure would be to mount a Go Pro to the seat tube and aim it down there.

  157. #2357
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by OzIbis View Post
    Like I said Iím just guessing seeing as though most of the pics Iíve seen didnít have a bash guard. Maybe Iíve just been lucky and youíve been unlucky. I donít know. What I do know is that I recon there is zero chance that the chain ring is hitting the chain stay. It canít possibly flex that much or else the bike would make a weird right turn every time it happened. The movement at the rear axle would be huge if the front moved that far sideways. The only way to know whatís going on for sure would be to mount a Go Pro to the seat tube and aim it down there.
    Thatís not a bad idea!! Im just missing one of those articulating clamp-style mount. I got a suction cup mount but I donít trust that thing. Anyone else here has a go pro and clamp style mount?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  158. #2358
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Ridnparadise View Post
    With the chainring rotating forward, how would a rock caught between CR and frame damage the top aspect of the top ridge on the chain stay without touching the bits below? Is it physically possible without a backpedalling rock jam? Also wouldn't the chainring show evidence of the impact?
    Iím just guessing, but if on a downhill the suspension was compressed, the chainstay is further away from the chainring. A rock could get spit in the gap, then get pinched when the suspension rebounds.

    I donít really care about the chip, they are going to happen. Itís just funny to see them all happening in what I thought was an unlikely place. Aluminum frames are great for this, my old blur was bare metal around that whole area.

  159. #2359
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    97
    Recent order wait time checkin...

    I ordered a Size L Red from Jenson on 5/10 and immediately received backorder notification with est ship date 5/22 (today).

    How long was everyone's recent (April / May orders) wait times, and from where?
    I can cancel my Jenson order and buy somewhere else if they have it in stock.

  160. #2360
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    36
    Anybody interested in buying an NX model?
    upgraded rear tire to a Hans Dampf Super Gravity 2.35", and upgraded dropper lever to Raceface Turbine in green to match suspension. 4 rides on it.
    hoping to get close to $3K.

    Edit - I'm going to get it serviced at my lbs here before selling, just to make sure everything is right and tight.

  161. #2361
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeboardorblade's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    423
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Good articles! Sounds like I may pick up some Fox Gold next. Oils a pretty cheap way to experiment.

    Anyone just take out the foam rings? Iíve heard that it can be better to remove them if you donít stay on top of the service to relubricate them.
    Iíve never heard of removing the foam rings. On the older Lyrik RC2DH, it was common to remove the oil seals, so it just had the foam rings and the dust seals, but never heard of pulling the foam rings. I wouldnít.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  162. #2362
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by Annadel Adam View Post
    Anybody interested in buying an NX model?
    upgraded rear tire to a Hans Dampf Super Gravity 2.35", and upgraded dropper lever to Raceface Turbine in green to match suspension. 4 rides on it.
    hoping to get close to $3K.

    Edit - I'm going to get it serviced at my lbs here before selling, just to make sure everything is right and tight.
    Did you not like it? Why are you selling?

  163. #2363
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    I donít really care about the chip, they are going to happen. Itís just funny to see them all happening in what I thought was an unlikely place. Aluminum frames are great for this, my old blur was bare metal around that whole area.
    I also have a little chip there, and I'm also not really concerned at all by it. The silver version barely shows the chips, and scratches/chips are definitely going to happen on my bikes. To each they're own though, I'm still interested to see what all the investigations uncover...

  164. #2364
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by bikeboardorblade View Post
    Iíve never heard of removing the foam rings. On the older Lyrik RC2DH, it was common to remove the oil seals, so it just had the foam rings and the dust seals, but never heard of pulling the foam rings. I wouldnít.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Agreed! Don't pull your foam rings (unless it's to lube them and put them back)!

    Unless your fork is completely dry, the foam rings will help apply the bath oil in one of the important areas it's needed (right below the seal). Even if you're extending your service period super long, and barely have any bath oil in there, at least you can flip your bike upside down before the ride, and the rings will retain some lube in that spot to cut down on seal friction. If you've got absolutely no oil left for the foam rings to do their thing, you've got way bigger problems that what the foam rings are doing (bushing and stanchion wear).

  165. #2365
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    36
    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    Did you not like it? Why are you selling?
    I love the bike, its just a little more bike than I need. I've never had more fun bombing down trails than I have on this, but i'm a really out of shape and poor climber, so i'm going to buy something lighter with a little less travel that fits what I ride a little better.

  166. #2366
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by Annadel Adam View Post
    Anybody interested in buying an NX model?
    upgraded rear tire to a Hans Dampf Super Gravity 2.35", and upgraded dropper lever to Raceface Turbine in green to match suspension. 4 rides on it.
    hoping to get close to $3K.

    Edit - I'm going to get it serviced at my lbs here before selling, just to make sure everything is right and tight.
    messaged, with any luck you are in the Philadelphia area

  167. #2367
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    12
    Hello,

    I 'm between small and medium size.
    I 'm 5'4 and 30'' inseam and ape idex +1,5

    I 'm thinking a small size will be better for reach 431 but I m skeptical about the short seat tube 355.

    Anyone with a small/medium dilemma?
    Any suggestions?


    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  168. #2368
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Agreed! Don't pull your foam rings (unless it's to lube them and put them back)!

    Unless your fork is completely dry, the foam rings will help apply the bath oil in one of the important areas it's needed (right below the seal). Even if you're extending your service period super long, and barely have any bath oil in there, at least you can flip your bike upside down before the ride, and the rings will retain some lube in that spot to cut down on seal friction. If you've got absolutely no oil left for the foam rings to do their thing, you've got way bigger problems that what the foam rings are doing (bushing and stanchion wear).
    l changed the oil in my Marzocchi the other day before messing with the Diamond. This is where I heard about removing foam rings (minute mark 6:30): https://www.pinkbike.com/video/242073/

    I haven't dropped the lowers on the Diamond yet, so I just assumed it was the same design. Guess I was wrong. Thanks!

  169. #2369
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    l changed the oil in my Marzocchi the other day before messing with the Diamond. This is where I heard about removing foam rings (minute mark 6:30): https://www.pinkbike.com/video/242073/

    I haven't dropped the lowers on the Diamond yet, so I just assumed it was the same design. Guess I was wrong. Thanks!
    Yeah, definitely different. I believe the main issue here is that the foam ring on the 44 is between the dust seal and the oil seal. So there's no bath oil that's going to re-lube the foam ring during use. With the Diamond (and most modern forks, I believe) the dust seal and oil seal are part of the the same unit, and the foam ring sits under that and on top of the bushing. So with the Diamond, the seal can be re-soaked by the bath oil, and keeps things smooth over the entire service interval (even a very long one).

  170. #2370
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    Yeah, definitely different. I believe the main issue here is that the foam ring on the 44 is between the dust seal and the oil seal. So there's no bath oil that's going to re-lube the foam ring during use. With the Diamond (and most modern forks, I believe) the dust seal and oil seal are part of the the same unit, and the foam ring sits under that and on top of the bushing. So with the Diamond, the seal can be re-soaked by the bath oil, and keeps things smooth over the entire service interval (even a very long one).

    That makes a lot more sense then. Thanks

  171. #2371
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    I heard back from Will at Ibis and I hope I have the chipping issue sorted. My dealer did not put the 4.5 mm spacer on the drive side of the crank and instead put it on the non-drive side. It is difficult to see if the spacer is on the drive side, as it is obscured by the chainring, but you should be able to see it.

    So check to see if the spacer is on the right side. If it is not, it will look like this:
    Ripmo AF Thread-img_4767.jpg

    Then if you need to switch it, first back off the bb preload ring (tabbed ring on the left of the circled image above) by undoing the 2mm Allen key, and back the ring off towards the non dirve side crank. Then go to the drive side and use an 8mm Allen key and turn counterclockwise (opposite the tightening arrow on the bolt). I had to use a pretty long racket to generate enough torque to loosen the bolt. 54 Nm is no joke.

    Pull the crank, and switch the spacer to the drive side. The orientation of the spacer matters, and the step down shoulder should fit nicely into the BB, with the flat side towards the chainring.

    Ripmo AF Thread-img_4770.jpg

    Ripmo AF Thread-img_4772.jpg

    Snug up the bolt to 54 NM following the arrow on the bolt. With the spacer I know have a lot more clearance. I will add some mastic tape as a precaution.

    Ripmo AF Thread-img_4773.jpg

  172. #2372
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    I heard back from Will at Ibis and I hope I have the chipping issue sorted. My dealer did not put the 4.5 mm spacer on the drive side of the crank and instead put it on the non-drive side. It is difficult to see if the spacer is on the drive side, as it is obscured by the chainring, but you should be able to see it.
    Well, I can't see a spacer on the drive side. If it's there, I can't see it for the chain ring, even when I get out my winter light set and clean all the loam out. But I don't have one in my non-drive side either... I notice that my stock steel chain ring is showing more wear on the outboard side than the inboard side, so I don't think my chain line would be happy with me adding an additional spacer in there. Maybe it's there, and I just can't see it. Interesting.

  173. #2373
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    Here is what it looks like when installed. The handle of the spoon is on the spacer:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ripmo AF Thread-90825cb8-dc6b-4297-a2b5-8f42cd39c8eb.jpg  


  174. #2374
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Here is what it looks like when installed. The handle of the spoon is on the spacer:
    Glad you got it sorted out, but that's concerning that the shop didn't know what side to put the spacer on...

  175. #2375
    sonoranbiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    494
    I ride a L AF w/ Jade X and am interested to try air so I tracked down a used DPX2 from a V1 for a REALLY good deal. Hoping that it will work out and I can use the DPX2 for mellower trail riding and the Jade X for AM/bike park riding.

    If anyone else with coil shocks wants to try a similar experiment, Fanatik Bike is selling a few V1 Ripmo DPX2 pull-off shocks for $190 each. Screaming deal! https://www.fanatikbike.com/collecti...for-ibis-ripmo

  176. #2376
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    138
    Quote Originally Posted by sonoranbiker View Post
    I ride a L AF w/ Jade X and am interested to try air so I tracked down a used DPX2 from a V1 for a REALLY good deal. Hoping that it will work out and I can use the DPX2 for mellower trail riding and the Jade X for AM/bike park riding.

    If anyone else with coil shocks wants to try a similar experiment, Fanatik Bike is selling a few V1 Ripmo DPX2 pull-off shocks for $190 each. Screaming deal! https://www.fanatikbike.com/collecti...for-ibis-ripmo
    damn id buy one if they shipped to New Zealand

  177. #2377
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Here is what it looks like when installed. The handle of the spoon is on the spacer:
    Spacer verified on drive side. Installed since day 1 when picked up from LBS. Now what?

    Mastic on the CS is starting to wear through and itís always on the top portion of the frontal CS area and resembles a ďcutĒ marking.

    I find it interesting even the V1 carbons have this issue. Itís a small issue given how good this bike is but damn, am I curious!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  178. #2378
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    Anyone in the Philadelphia willing to meet up and let me test their rig. I'm having a hard time pulling the trigger without riding it.

  179. #2379
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripbro View Post
    Here is what it looks like when installed. The handle of the spoon is on the spacer:
    After taking a second look at mine, I've got a spacer on the non-drive side between the bb cup and bb shell. Then on the drive side, I've got the ISCG mount between the BB cup and BB shell. So I'm assuming it's at least properly spaced on the drive side, due to the ISCG mount.

  180. #2380
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    I donít have the iscg mount installed and it will space the crank out 2.7 mm(measured with a caliper) so a couple mm shy of spec.

    If you already have the spacer and are still getting chips, not sure what to do. Iím putting mastic on it and will keep an eye on it. Contact Ibis if youíre still concerned, Will was really helpful and responded quick to my questions.

  181. #2381
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Road House View Post
    After taking a second look at mine, I've got a spacer on the non-drive side between the bb cup and bb shell. Then on the drive side, I've got the ISCG mount between the BB cup and BB shell. So I'm assuming it's at least properly spaced on the drive side, due to the ISCG mount.
    Road House: Your drive side sounbds wrong. Look at post #1920 from Pasqual Tonzola He has a pic of the correct order. In his pic he has a label for "Machined Spacer" that he fabricated himself. I had to call Ibis to have them mail me the 2mm spacer that Pasqual made. Can't understand why it doesn't come with the bike, but it didn't. You should have the ISCG-05 mount + 2mm spacer for proper alignment on drive side.

  182. #2382
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    So I have a line on a ripmo af that will be around in June but its a coil and I was hoping for an air version. I was hoping for poppy airaversion and occasionally soften for race. Can I take the softer coil and tune to be poppy? Maybe realy open the rebound?

  183. #2383
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    With the state of the shock market I would buy the coil bike without question. Coils are in demand and air shocks are available all the time used for much lower prices. Trust me. I've been trying to get a coil....

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  184. #2384
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    With the state of the shock market I would buy the coil bike without question. Coils are in demand and air shocks are available all the time used for much lower prices. Trust me. I've been trying to get a coil....

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    No kidding, i sold my Jade X in less than 24hrs for $330. I've been trying to track down a used Super Deluxe Coil for months now for park rides. They go insanely fast.

  185. #2385
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    I was thinking of just buying one of those dpx2 take offs for $200 but I would rather have the adjustability of the topaz

  186. #2386
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    I wouldnt sweat it too much. Most of us are running the topaz wide open so it's not exactly a lot of adjustments

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  187. #2387
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Road House: Your drive side sounbds wrong. Look at post #1920 from Pasqual Tonzola He has a pic of the correct order. In his pic he has a label for "Machined Spacer" that he fabricated himself. I had to call Ibis to have them mail me the 2mm spacer that Pasqual made. Can't understand why it doesn't come with the bike, but it didn't. You should have the ISCG-05 mount + 2mm spacer for proper alignment on drive side.
    I see what you mean. But I'm still curious about my chain line, if I'm indeed missing some drive side spacing. My chain ring wear is biased to the outer surfaces, while I still have all the black coating left on the inside surface. I'm thinking that spacing out my drive side crank any further will only end up increasing that biased wear. Perhaps I spend a lot of time in the taller gears with the steep climbs around here, but I'm a bit hesitant to make that worse.

    That said, I do have a spacer on the non-drive side, and it appears to be about 2mm. I think that's where my spacer ended up.

  188. #2388
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    pulled the trigger, red Medium with coil. Jensson have 5 set to arrive June 15th and only 4 were spoken for, any other color of shock option for medium wouldve been out to August or Sept. Order that $200 Ripmo DPX2 takeoff from the link below. I figure whichever shock i like more for my riding i will keep and sell the other one and still brake eve.

    Plan for the build is to put my current Zee brakes on and then put those Guide Ts on my other bike. I also have a set of carbon cranks in the parts bin that will go on (need to get an English bb30 bottom bracket for them. Ride it for a bit while my other bike sells then use those funds for XT 12 shifter, derailure, cassette, and chain. I also bought some fox gold fluid after hearing it added to the performance and seeing so many threads about dry lowers.

    It is going to clash with the orange but i also reached out to DVO about sending my new black lowers back and getting the bright green ones. Hopefully we can work something out.

  189. #2389
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbike View Post
    Road House: Your drive side sounbds wrong. Look at post #1920 from Pasqual Tonzola He has a pic of the correct order. In his pic he has a label for "Machined Spacer" that he fabricated himself. I had to call Ibis to have them mail me the 2mm spacer that Pasqual made. Can't understand why it doesn't come with the bike, but it didn't. You should have the ISCG-05 mount + 2mm spacer for proper alignment on drive side.
    Yup. I donít think a spacer on non drive side is correct. Mine has no spacer on NDS and what looks to be a 2-3mm spacer on the DS.

    I think I may have figured out why that spot is prone to nicks. Iím riding flats and sometimes when resuming a ride after stopping, I donít place my right foot correctly because well, 5-10s are stupid sticky. Couple times today I felt some heel rub, looked down and the back of my foot was right on top of that CS area with the mastic. Mystery solved??


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  190. #2390
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    Anyone know what size these coils are? Since its an internet buy the medium comes with a 400 and I think I want a 450 since I'm 185 to 190 geared up. I want to start looking for a good deal on a light or progressive spring.

  191. #2391
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    Can someone provide a break down or link for how to service the lowers? All the shops around me are slammed. I have all the necessary oils and lubes now, just need some guidance lol.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  192. #2392
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    26
    Check out the DVO service site. They have a PDF with a full service of the lowers, this thread also has a few Post with shortcuts just to change the oil.

    I just watched the video here a few days ago and itís one of the best videos I have watched on servicing a fork. Much of it applies to servicing your diamond.

    The Lost Co: Fox Lower Service, Air Spring ant Grip 2 install
    https://youtu.be/u4TH01UqEps

  193. #2393
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    Can someone provide a break down or link for how to service the lowers? All the shops around me are slammed. I have all the necessary oils and lubes now, just need some guidance lol.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    I looked on the dvo site and it says to remove the upper internals and that is a bit much if you are careful. I have never scratched an internal removing or installing lowers and I am an acceptable bike mechanic at best. Just go slow and take your time.

  194. #2394
    sonoranbiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    494
    Quote Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
    Anyone know what size these coils are? Since its an internet buy the medium comes with a 400 and I think I want a 450 since I'm 185 to 190 geared up. I want to start looking for a good deal on a light or progressive spring.
    Total shock dimensions are 210x55. The Jade X coil is a 2.5" LS spring. See if Jenson will send it to you with the correct spring, or if they will get the correct one from Ibis. My LBS got mine (L) shipped with a 550 with a phone call. You can also keep an eye out on places like Pinkbike (and here I guess) for used and pull-off coils. If I recall there might be a 450 on there now. I've been keeping an eye out for a 500.

  195. #2395
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by Stickyface View Post
    Can someone provide a break down or link for how to service the lowers? All the shops around me are slammed. I have all the necessary oils and lubes now, just need some guidance lol.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    I just did it today on my pike the same way they do it in this video (using a bike stand and not having to take off the fork) https://youtu.be/q71iSEEuiw0

    From what Iíve seen in the DVO seal service guide and this forum, it looks like it should be real similar for the Diamond. On my list to do next.

    I bought the Golden Spectro but then the more I nerded out reading about fork oil, I ended up picking up some Fox Gold 20wt to use instead. Feels real good in the Pike! Curious to see what the factory oil situation will look like when I drop the lowers in the Diamond.

  196. #2396
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by sonoranbiker View Post
    Total shock dimensions are 210x55. The Jade X coil is a 2.5" LS spring. See if Jenson will send it to you with the correct spring, or if they will get the correct one from Ibis. My LBS got mine (L) shipped with a 550 with a phone call. You can also keep an eye out on places like Pinkbike (and here I guess) for used and pull-off coils. If I recall there might be a 450 on there now. I've been keeping an eye out for a 500.
    What about inner diameter? Do they vary by manufacturer?

  197. #2397
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MUSTCLIME's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    555
    Wow, just read this thread front to back....I hope lbis figures out the alloy bike needs a Fox It Rockshox option. I had cash in hand and was ready to buy the RAF GX eagle and started reading up on DVO suspension.....itís to bad, I like the idea of the company but.... there seems to be a problem with the performance and the fork weighs as much as a Fox 38 . For those in denial, ask yourself why there are no carbon Ripmoís speced with DVO.
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  198. #2398
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    160
    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    Wow, just read this thread front to back....I hope lbis figures out the alloy bike needs a Fox It Rockshox option. I had cash in hand and was ready to buy the RAF GX eagle and started reading up on DVO suspension.....itís to bad, I like the idea of the company but.... there seems to be a problem with the performance and the fork weighs as much as a Fox 38 . For those in denial, ask yourself why there are no carbon Ripmoís speced with DVO.
    Totally right.. still mine is ordered

    Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  199. #2399
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    Wow, just read this thread front to back....I hope lbis figures out the alloy bike needs a Fox It Rockshox option. I had cash in hand and was ready to buy the RAF GX eagle and started reading up on DVO suspension.....itís to bad, I like the idea of the company but.... there seems to be a problem with the performance and the fork weighs as much as a Fox 38 . For those in denial, ask yourself why there are no carbon Ripmoís speced with DVO.
    Dont get me wrong, the dvo stuff is great. Just compared to the highest level of other brands it's not as good. I couldn't afford it specced that way anyhow haha

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  200. #2400
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Road House's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    Wow, just read this thread front to back....I hope lbis figures out the alloy bike needs a Fox It Rockshox option. I had cash in hand and was ready to buy the RAF GX eagle and started reading up on DVO suspension.....itís to bad, I like the idea of the company but.... there seems to be a problem with the performance and the fork weighs as much as a Fox 38 . For those in denial, ask yourself why there are no carbon Ripmoís speced with DVO.
    I'm super happy with the DVO on my RAF. I wanted nothing to do with the budget Yari that would come on every other bike in this price range, and I'm glad I made that choice.

Page 12 of 13 FirstFirst ... 28910111213 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 10
    Last Post: 01-22-2020, 09:46 PM
  2. Replies: 46
    Last Post: 02-10-2019, 08:43 AM
  3. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-02-2019, 02:46 PM
  4. AF Canyon Trails....OPEN!
    By tallsteve in forum Utah
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-19-2012, 11:30 AM
  5. AF on coaster brakes!
    By stiingya in forum New Mexico
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-03-2011, 06:47 PM

Members who have read this thread: 1068

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.