Non Boost cranks on Ripley LS with boost- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    melon farmer
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    Non Boost cranks on Ripley LS with boost

    So my Ripley LS is due to land here in Australia soon after a few delays. I've decided to go for the boost rear end in the hope I get a little more stiffness in the rear triangle..

    I'm going to be running XT 1X11 with a 30 tooth front ring. Is it essential that I get boost cranks or can I use BB spacers to get a 53mm chainline? Must I have the 53mm chainline to avoid bad shifts and prematurely worn chains?

    Anyone got any advice or real world experience? Thanks in advance.

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  2. #2
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    Shoot Ibis an email. They are very responsive and would give you the best answer on this, especially if you are going to be buying the cranks as well. If you already have the cranks try them out without the spacers first and let us know. The BB shell is a standard threaded 73mm width.

    I am planning to run non boost XX1 cranks on my Boost LS (whenever it comes) with a 28 or 30t and I'll definitely let you know.

  3. #3
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    Funny, I just had this conversation with Joe Murray here in town. He is a designer and proto-type tester for Shimano besides having somewhat of a racing pedigree. Anyhow, I was whining about boost and his take was to try the non-boost cranks first as it actually has a bit better chainline with the gears (ie., cassette cogs) that your in the most (and with the most torque) and that's while climbing. This is totally wrt to 1x11 of course. Anyhow, worth a try before scrapping a perfectly good cankset or going to bandaid solutions.

    Let's face it, most of us are try to run as big of a front chainring as you can so that you don't spin out on the downhill. What that translates to on most climbs, however, is spending the most time in the 28,32,36,42 cogs. On the downhill it's more about spinning and cadence. The wear item on 1x11 for me is not the chain (like 2x10) but the front chainring. I go though those like hot cakes and not sure it matters much with boost spacing. Food for thought.

  4. #4
    melon farmer
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    Thanks for the replies.

    The official word from Ibis is to use the boost crank

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcus_dukakis View Post
    Thanks for the replies.

    The official word from Ibis is to use the boost crank
    Of course, did you expect otherwise?

    If you're using old cranks you might consider trying them before going the band aid approach with spacers.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcus_dukakis View Post
    Thanks for the replies.

    The official word from Ibis is to use the boost crank
    That's what I thought they would say. If you are buying new, follow their advice and you should have no worries about the chainring clearance to the chainstay. This may or may not result in the best chainline however. All my 1x experience so far has led me to buying the chainrings with the most offset I can find to help with the chainline in the big cog. So if boost moves the 42t cog to the outside by 3mm then I figure a standard crankset will give me a better chainline for this gear.

    I understand that you are using XT, and I do not have experience with that set-up so take this with a grain of salt. Basically XX1 chain lines are not ideal for many bikes and often result in unwanted upshifts when backpedalling. To fix this folks (me included) are buying these offset chainrings that are often 2-3mm inboard from SRAM's 50mm spec.

  7. #7
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    Heed what most said, use the normal cranks, Boost spacing is only really 142, which is only now going to give a somewhat decent chainline with a 50-51mm chainline crank. I run a 150x12 rear, 73mm BB with an XT M760 crank (50-51mm chainline) setup 2x with bash and my chainline is now pretty much perfect compared to when I ran a 135 rear, matches the sort of chainline I used to get running an SS/Trials hub with 6 cogs. FYI, not on an Ibis, this is on a Banshee Phantom which has clearance for 3" tyres.
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  8. #8
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    I just went through this on a Mojo3 build with a XT M8000 1X drivetrain.
    Ibis does specify using the XT Boost cranks on their Boost frames, I called them.

    I initially built the bike with XT M8000 Boost crankset, 30t XT chainring. The chain line did not look optimal to me, it was very offset inward when on the 42t ring on cassette. I'd say the chain was straight when on the 7th cog or so. Frame clearance to the chainring at the cranks was 0.5", so I swapped out the Boost cranks for non-Boost 50mm chain line. Works great, I haven't had any issues, chain line is now straight at the 6th cog on cassette. Frame clearance with a 30t and 32t is adequate, I'm leaving them on. (I've only run 2.35 tires, so can't say this will work with 2.8 tires)

    All Ibis 1X stock builds (Boost or std) use the Raceface Cinch 1X cranksets, which have a 51mm chain line. Note that the XT M8000 non Boost std cranksets chain line is actually 50.4mm, Boost is 53.4 mm. So non Boost std is closer to what was originally speced by Ibis. Because the XT M8000 cranks are all really 2X, so for 1X you can only mount chainring on outboard position. For 2X XT M8000 Boost cranks would be the only option.

    That's what I know, at least for a Mojo3. If you have some non Boost XT M8000 cranks I'd try them first. I've got a set of new XT M8000 Boost cranks I'm not going to use...

  9. #9
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    Just went thru this with Ripley LS boost build XX1 and Race Face Next SL crank. Race Face said to use the standard non boost crank. It shifts perfectly.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Heed what most said, use the normal cranks, Boost spacing is only really 142, which is only now going to give a somewhat decent chainline with a 50-51mm chainline crank. I run a 150x12 rear, 73mm BB with an XT M760 crank (50-51mm chainline) setup 2x with bash and my chainline is now pretty much perfect compared to when I ran a 135 rear, matches the sort of chainline I used to get running an SS/Trials hub with 6 cogs. FYI, not on an Ibis, this is on a Banshee Phantom which has clearance for 3" tyres.
    Thanks! I remember you having some other chainline comments that helped me spec my last build.

    I'd be interested to find out why SRAM keeps pushing this chainline of 50mm for non-boost and 53mm for boost. Almost everyone I know riding SRAM's 1x set-up has poor chainline by about 2-3mm or almost the equivalent of one cog and has sought out better inboard spacing chainring alternatives. If SRAM was looking to sell more rings due to wear from the harsh cross chaining effect, they failed here. I'm hoping the reasons are more complicated and less cynical than this.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by oaklandish View Post
    Thanks! I remember you having some other chainline comments that helped me spec my last build.

    I'd be interested to find out why SRAM keeps pushing this chainline of 50mm for non-boost and 53mm for boost. Almost everyone I know riding SRAM's 1x set-up has poor chainline by about 2-3mm or almost the equivalent of one cog and has sought out better inboard spacing chainring alternatives. If SRAM was looking to sell more rings due to wear from the harsh cross chaining effect, they failed here. I'm hoping the reasons are more complicated and less cynical than this.
    I'm running non-boost Next SL on my LS with seam 1x and a 30t ring. No issues.

  12. #12
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    Non Boost cranks on Ripley LS with boost

    So I finally have the bike and I'm good to go. I need to use a BB spacer for some reason. Do I go drive side or non drive side? This is with non boost cranks on boost rear end. Thanks in advance!

  13. #13
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    Spacer usually goes on the drive side, but can go on NDS depending on if the space between the cranks and chainstays is the same on both sides or not with spacer in DS.

    Quote Originally Posted by marcus_dukakis View Post
    So I finally have the bike and I'm good to go. I need to use a BB spacer for some reason. Do I go drive side or non drive side? This is with non boost cranks on boost rear end. Thanks in advance!
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  14. #14
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    Whichever side gives you the best chainline.
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    I just think the same.

    Quote Originally Posted by oaklandish View Post
    That's what I thought they would say. If you are buying new, follow their advice and you should have no worries about the chainring clearance to the chainstay. This may or may not result in the best chainline however. All my 1x experience so far has led me to buying the chainrings with the most offset I can find to help with the chainline in the big cog. So if boost moves the 42t cog to the outside by 3mm then I figure a standard crankset will give me a better chainline for this gear.

    I understand that you are using XT, and I do not have experience with that set-up so take this with a grain of salt. Basically XX1 chain lines are not ideal for many bikes and often result in unwanted upshifts when backpedalling. To fix this folks (me included) are buying these offset chainrings that are often 2-3mm inboard from SRAM's 50mm spec.
    Oaklandish, I just think the same as you. The boost frames move the cassete 3mm to the outside (drive side). I noticed since the firts day on my 1x11 sram transmission that my chainline would be the best if my chain ring or my cassete was exactly 2 or 3mm far away on the outside.
    So, when I have to get my boost frame, I will continue to use my Sram 168mm Qfactor XX1 crankset. I will get the chainline that I was waiting for.

  16. #16
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    Anyone set up their Boost LS with 2x non-boost cranks? Trying to confirm if their is an issue with chainring clearance at the chainstay or if there are any problems getting the front derailleur to shift to the inner chainring.

    Thanks!

    -D

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel~ View Post
    Anyone set up their Boost LS with 2x non-boost cranks? Trying to confirm if their is an issue with chainring clearance at the chainstay or if there are any problems getting the front derailleur to shift to the inner chainring.

    Thanks!

    -D
    I would also be very interested in an answer to this question. I'm currently acquiring parts for an LS build and my preference is to use a XT 2X non-boost. I'm reasonably comfident based on what I've read that the cranks and rings will clear the chainstay, and chainline will be fine, but the front derailleur positioning relative to the chainrings is the unknown.

  18. #18
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    Sounds like you guys might be in somewhat uncharted territory.

    On my Mojo3 with non boost XT cranks (1X) the chainring size is somewhat limited.
    Max for me would be a 32t, not sure if the Ripley has additional clearance.
    That might be an issue with 2X set up since XT large rings are 36 or 38 and the large ring chainline will be the same as a 1X set up when using XT cranks.

    Bare XT cranks are only $100 or so, I ended up with both, sold the boost set for nearly what I bought them for after I got the bike all dialed in. (or return them if possible)

    I'd assume the FD would be fine, since they are universal, boost or non-boost you use the same type.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rglsr View Post
    That might be an issue with 2X set up since XT large rings are 36 or 38 and the large ring chainline will be the same as a 1X set up when using XT cranks.
    I don't think the chainlines are the same. Shimano lists the FC-M8000 1X chainline at 50mm and the 2X at 48.8. So the big ring on a 2X is about 52 to 53mm (I forget the ring to ring pitch . . . 6.5mm I think).

    Quote Originally Posted by rglsr View Post
    I'd assume the FD would be fine, since they are universal, boost or non-boost you use the same type.
    Yes, the mounting interface is the same either way. But I assume, since the derailleurs are the same, that the lateral offset of the mounting surface on the frame is different: 3mm further outboard in a Boost-optimized frame. 3mm isn't a lot, so I'm hoping the adjustment range of the derailleur will accommodate it. One observation that has me less than 100% confident: the QBP band-clamp high-direct-mount adapters (for adding front der to current Salsa bikes, etc) come in both Boost and non-Boost offset. So clearly there is some functional difference.

  20. #20
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    Not sure if this helps, but:

    XT FC-M770-10 - 24x32 (pre-boost) - 50mm chainline - fits, but clearance of the 32 is tight
    XTR M980 -10 - 24x36 (pre-boost) does NOT fit. 36, which is an SLX ring, contacts the metal chainstay guard
    FC-M8000 - 11 - 24x34 non-boost - have not had a chance to install, but will report back on clearance

    -D
    Last edited by Diesel~; 01-08-2017 at 03:58 PM. Reason: clarifying that the XT 8000 is non-boost

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    Lots of good data points @Diesel, thanks. We're starting to narrow in on the specific case .

    Still not directly applicable, though. The M770 is a triple, so I'm not surprised the 32T is tight. The 50mm chainline matches @rglsr use of M8000 1X non-boost, and he also says 32T is tight on the Mojo3.

    If one assumes a 52mm chainline on the large ring of non-boost 2X crank, its sounding unlikely that 2mm adds sufficient clearance to jump to 34T. Eventually someone will weigh in here who tried.

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    Hmm, I didn't know the XT 2X M8000 has some offset different than 1X. (never seem to work with those!) Agree that 52mm chain line on the large ring might not get you there. The 1X XT boost chain line was not great at 53.4 mm with 1X, I wonder where the boost chain line ends up with 2X? (assuming some additional chainring offset the large ring would be >53.4mm)

    On the derailleur that makes sense on the 3mm offset frame direct mount, I also wondered about that since the direct mount versions look to be universal.

  23. #23
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    I was able to get my hands on the Shimano 2016 Technical Information document, so I have some definitive numbers. The following lengths are distance from BB center to the inner edge of chainring, not the tooth center. So intended for clearance dimensions, not chainline, but the relative differences will be identical if comparing chainline.

    This is for the "middle" ring (= middle on 3X, outer on 2X and only on 1X)

    FC-M8000-1 47.8mm
    FC-M8000-2 50.2mm
    FC-M8000-3 49.2mm
    BC-M8000-B1 50.8mm
    FC-M8000-B2 53.2mm

    FC-M780 (3X) 48.2
    FC-M782 (3X) 48.3
    FC-M785 (2X) 50.2

    Note how close the 2X non-boost is to the 1X boost! So if one is concerned about chainstay/ring or chain/tire clearance, and wants to use a non-boost crank, you're better off putting your one ring on the 2X crank.

    Even more fascinating, the distance from BB center to the inner edge of the drive side crank arm IS IDENTICAL ON ALL THE MODELS ABOVE (72.2mm). So no additional crank arm clearance on Boost models. I guess that is consistent with the claim that Boost didn't increase Q.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel~ View Post
    Not sure if this helps, but:

    XT FC-M770-10 - 24x32 (pre-boost) - 50mm chainline - fits, but clearance of the 32 is tight
    XTR M980 -10 - 24x36 (pre-boost) does NOT fit. 36, which is an SLX ring, contacts the metal chainstay guard
    FC-M8000 - 11 - 24x34 non-boost - have not had a chance to install, but will report back on clearance,

    -D
    FC-M8000 - 11 - 24x34 non-boost - 2-3 mm of clearance between the largest chainring and the anti-chainsuck plate. Approximately the width of 1 US nickel; 2 US dimes don't fit.

    -D
    Last edited by Diesel~; 01-08-2017 at 03:59 PM. Reason: clarifying that the XT 8000 is non-boost

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel~ View Post
    FC-M8000 - 11 - 24x34 boost - 2-3 mm of clearance between the largest chainring and the anti-chainsuck plate. Approximately the width of 1 US nickel; 2 US dimes don't fit.

    -D
    Hey Diesel, thanks for the measurements! Some clarifying questions:
    is the FC-M8000 the -B1 model or the -B2 model? As you can see from my posts above, the -B2 is more outboard. The -B1 cranks *do* have threaded holes for the inner 64mm ring pattern, so can be retrofitted with inner rings, but will suffer on the clearance. If you have a "native" 2X setup from a real store (not random eBay) then presumably is a -B2. I think it should say the -B1 or -B2 near the pedal on the drive side.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Hey Diesel, thanks for the measurements! Some clarifying questions:
    is the FC-M8000 the -B1 model or the -B2 model? As you can see from my posts above, the -B2 is more outboard. The -B1 cranks *do* have threaded holes for the inner 64mm ring pattern, so can be retrofitted with inner rings, but will suffer on the clearance. If you have a "native" 2X setup from a real store (not random eBay) then presumably is a -B2. I think it should say the -B1 or -B2 near the pedal on the drive side.
    Great clarifying question; it is a native 2x setup.

    Not a lot of options out there in 180mm.

    Here is what I ordered.

    Specifications:
    Model Number : FC-M8000-2
    Series : DEORE XT
    Cassette Compatibility : 11
    4-Arm Chainrings (Must use M8000*specific chainrings only)
    Chainring Sizes : 38-28T, 36-26T, 34-24T
    Bolt Circle Diameter : P.C.D. 96/64mm
    Crank Arm Length : 165, 170, 175, 180 mm
    Crank Arms : HOLLOWTECH II Technology
    Bottom Bracket : BB-MT800 / BB-MT800-PA (Not Included)
    Chain Line : 48.8mm

    -D

    Non Boost cranks on Ripley LS with boost-20161229_020922867_ios.jpg

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel~ View Post
    Great clarifying question; it is a native 2x setup.

    Not a lot of options out there in 180mm.

    Here is what I ordered.

    Specifications:
    Model Number : FC-M8000-2
    Series : DEORE XT
    Cassette Compatibility : 11
    4-Arm Chainrings (Must use M8000*specific chainrings only)
    Chainring Sizes : 38-28T, 36-26T, 34-24T
    Bolt Circle Diameter : P.C.D. 96/64mm
    Crank Arm Length : 165, 170, 175, 180 mm
    Crank Arms : HOLLOWTECH II Technology
    Bottom Bracket : BB-MT800 / BB-MT800-PA (Not Included)
    Chain Line : 48.8mm

    -D
    Funny, I'm also a 180mm guy, and that's half the reason for my own inquiries!

    So the URL you linked and the description above are for the *non-boost* version of the crank! Is that an error on your part? I've also been watching the Jenson inventory, and the 180mm 2X boost cranks have been on backorder for quite some time (and are also >> $109) so I'm wondering if perhaps you actually bought the non-boost and the photo you showed is actually a non-boost FC-M8000??

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Funny, I'm also a 180mm guy, and that's half the reason for my own inquiries!

    So the URL you linked and the description above are for the *non-boost* version of the crank! Is that an error on your part? I've also been watching the Jenson inventory, and the 180mm 2X boost cranks have been on backorder for quite some time (and are also >> $109) so I'm wondering if perhaps you actually bought the non-boost and the photo you showed is actually a non-boost FC-M8000??
    I think I figured out what is going on. The Jenson page for the non-boost calls out boost in the description (see below), so I ordered from that page, but to your point, the description is incorrect, and they have a separate page for the boost crank. Looks like I ordered the non-boost version, based upon the description from Jenson. I didn't look at the box too carefully and only confirmed fitment with my particular setup.

    I went up to the attic and took a pic of the box for you to confirm.

    Upside with this setup is that chainline is better. Downside is that I would prefer XTR if the non-boost 24/34 would fit.

    Hope that helps, and sorry for any confusion.

    -D

    Non Boost cranks on Ripley LS with boost-jensonxtcrank.jpg

    Non Boost cranks on Ripley LS with boost-xtcrank.jpg

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel~ View Post
    Looks like I ordered the non-boost version, based upon the description from Jenson. I didn't look at the box too carefully and only confirmed fitment with my particular setup.

    I went up to the attic and took a pic of the box for you to confirm.

    Upside with this setup is that chainline is better. Downside is that I would prefer XTR if the non-boost 24/34 would fit.
    Happy ending. At least we now know definitively that the non-boost 2X 34/24 will clear the chainstay with "acceptable" (but certainly not "generous") clearance. Given my chainline number table above, that implies that a boost 2X, which adds 3mm, should clear a 36/26 no problem.**

    Presumably your BB install in the photo of chainring clearance was the standard 2.5mm spacer on drive side only?

    EDIT: ** - duh, that's what Ibis installs on the 2X build kits, so no surprise

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Happy ending. At least we now know definitively that the non-boost 2X 34/24 will clear the chainstay with "acceptable" (but certainly not "generous") clearance. Given my chainline number table above, that implies that a boost 2X, which adds 3mm, should clear a 36/26 no problem.**

    Presumably your BB install in the photo of chainring clearance was the standard 2.5mm spacer on drive side only?

    EDIT: ** - duh, that's what Ibis installs on the 2X build kits, so no surprise
    Would imagine that the boost 26/36 would fit with no issues. Would be concerned about a 26/36 non-boost.

    Confirmed that I have a single 2.5mm spacer on drive side only. Current gen XTR bottom bracket.

    -D

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    Hey @Diesel,

    How's the non-boost 34/24 been working out for you on the Ripley?

    I'm finally finishing my build and am about to pull the trigger on crank/chainring purchases. If you've been riding without any rubbing or regrets w/ 24/34 non-boost, I'll likely go that way.

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    Just as an FYI I'm running M9020 non boost with a 30t 1Up Oval.

    The 32t oval fit on a M3 but not the Ripley so I had to size down.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Just as an FYI I'm running M9020 non boost with a 30t 1Up Oval.

    The 32t oval fit on a M3 but not the Ripley so I had to size down.
    Was your M3 a non-boost and your Ripley a Boost rear?

  34. #34
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    Been working out fine! In retrospect, may have gone with the e13 11s wide range and skipped the FD, but it wasn't out when I was purchasing my setup.
    Good luck with the build!
    -D

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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Was your M3 a non-boost and your Ripley a Boost rear?
    Did the M3 come in non boost?

    Both Boost that's why I mentioned it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Did the M3 come in non boost?

    Both Boost that's why I mentioned it.
    I haven't followed the M3 closely so my question was asked in ignorance. I was just trying to imagine a reason that the bike w/ shorter chainstays and bigger tire clearance (M3) would have *more* chainring/chainstay clearance than a bike w/ longer chainstays and smaller tire clearance (Ripley). Obviously I'm oversimplifying since there are differences in wheel size and shock linkage/assembly . . . but your observation was sort of the opposite of what I would have expected.

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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    I haven't followed the M3 closely so my question was asked in ignorance. I was just trying to imagine a reason that the bike w/ shorter chainstays and bigger tire clearance (M3) would have *more* chainring/chainstay clearance than a bike w/ longer chainstays and smaller tire clearance (Ripley). Obviously I'm oversimplifying since there are differences in wheel size and shock linkage/assembly . . . but your observation was sort of the opposite of what I would have expected.
    Trust me I was surprised.
    M3 has a 68mm BB and the Ripley a 73mm BB, but that shouldn't matter since you use spacers to make it the same width anyway.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcus_dukakis View Post
    Thanks for the replies.

    The official word from Ibis is to use the boost crank
    So I will buy BOOST products from my LBS. According to ENVE: "Boost is here to stay… At least until the next standard is developed." All about the Boost Axle Standard

    Cool. Then I will buy BOOST now. When the "new standard" come out, it will be better. I will buy that too from my LBS. #RepeatCycle


  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by klasse View Post
    When I discovered the man my wife was cheating on me with rode Ibis bikes, I decided to do what any man would, troll the Ibis thread on MTBR.
    Such a sad story.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    When I discovered the man my wife was cheating on me with rode Ibis bikes, I decided to do what any man would, troll the Ibis thread on MTBR. .
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Such a sad story.
    Agree. Suggest you ride more, spend less time on the internet..

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by klasse View Post
    Agree. Suggest you ride more, spend less time on the internet..
    How unoriginal for a troll.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

  42. #42
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    I've got a boost ripley ls that I built up with xtm8000 non boost cranks, xt 11-46 cassette and it shifts fine but is GD noisy when laying down the watts... Spacer? Boost cranks? Help? Chain is new, cogs are new, chainring is wolftooth 32 oval.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Back2MTB View Post
    I've got a boost ripley ls that I built up with xtm8000 non boost cranks, xt 11-46 cassette and it shifts fine but is GD noisy when laying down the watts... Spacer? Boost cranks? Help? Chain is new, cogs are new, chainring is wolftooth 32 oval.
    What type of noise? Creaking? Drivetrain lash? Still running the stock lube on the chain?

    -D

  44. #44
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    Mostly grinding, slightly creaky. You think it is the new chain? Tbh it seemed noisier today on extreme climbs actually requiring the 46 than it has on the first 6-8 rides on the new bits. Not sold on 46 yet, really missing the gear in the middle and not liking the big jump.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by MountainHead View Post
    Just went thru this with Ripley LS boost build XX1 and Race Face Next SL crank. Race Face said to use the standard non boost crank. It shifts perfectly.
    This. I'm running an XTR group with a non-boost Raceface Next crank. We had to play with the spacers to get the chainline right, and I won't lie, its a little close to the chainstay, but it rides and shifts perfect. I spoke to Ibis about it and they were super cool about it, but didn't give me any useful advice other than to try different spacers and see what works.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by mando54 View Post
    This. I'm running an XTR group with a non-boost Raceface Next crank. We had to play with the spacers to get the chainline right, and I won't lie, its a little close to the chainstay, but it rides and shifts perfect. I spoke to Ibis about it and they were super cool about it, but didn't give me any useful advice other than to try different spacers and see what works.
    Ibis might not be comfortable with the how close the chainring is to the CS or don't want to limit the front ring too much. When I purchased my Mojo 3 they flat out said non-boost cranks wouldn't work.

    It was few posters on here that convinced it it would and was better. Glad I found those threads. Same thing applies to the boost Ripley- only it has less clearance.

    I had to go from a 32t oval on the M3 to 30t oval on the Ripley. it would be interesting to know how the CS changed for the V3 and if the non-boost cranks still work better.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

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