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  1. #1
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    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread

    About time the HD4 gets it's own Pic and Build thread! Mods, can you stick this one?

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    I guess I will start this one off...


    HD4 Large
    2018 Fox 36 160mm
    Chromag BZA 35mm bars 25mm rise
    Chromag BZA stem 35mm
    Shimano XTR brakes F/R 180mm rotors
    Wheels- Chris King hubs laced to DT Swiss 511 rims
    Fox Transfer dropper 150mm
    Ergon Smr3-L seat
    Shimano XTR cranks
    One-up components chainring 34T
    Chris King BB
    Shimano XTR deraiuller
    Shimano XTR shifter
    Shimano XT cassette

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    Nice. Looks very orange. Maybe its the lighting. What weight with pedals?

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    dup (wtf?)

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    Nice image! Chopper style. I've never seen silver hubs on an mtb. Unique! Looks awesome! Keep them polished! How about a head shot? It looks like you have some orange detail in the bars.

    jacksonlui, you must be getting close.

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    The wait sucks big hairy ass with a major case of dingle-berries...grrrrr!
    Last edited by jacksonlui; 02-27-2019 at 01:57 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Nice. Looks very orange. Maybe its the lighting. What weight with pedals?

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    Not sure of the weight, it is lighter than the sb6 I came from though with the same build. The top of the frame definitely has an orange tint to it, frame really pops in the sun I love it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    The wait sucks big hairy ass with a major case of dingle-berries...grrrrr!
    It was quoted for end of August but won't get it till this coming week.
    I can't believe you haven't gotten yours yet? Why so long?

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    I dont know . Maybe its a red frame delay issue

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    I dont know . Maybe its a red frame delay issue

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    That could be. My local shop has four bikes in stock and they are all silver !

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    I got my red frame almost a month ago

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    Was told that ibis had red paint issues or something about not liking the paint jon1. You must've been on the 1st red shipment.

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  13. #13
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    Went with the basic Ibis NX build. The GX build would have been ideal with its 12 speed and 10-50 cassette but prices jump up considerably with our poor Canadian dollar. Perhaps I'll look into a Sunrace 11-46 in the future... or better yet, get into shape over the winter.

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-hd4.jpg

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    Nice Gear room..bikes, canoes, Liquor

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    Quote Originally Posted by drew840 View Post
    That could be. My local shop has four bikes in stock and they are all silver !
    That's weird. I ordered mine from Jenson on 09/09 , and the red NX build was in stock. Maybe Jenson doesn't care about the color issue?


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    Not sure. Maybe Jenson preordered in advanced.
    Anyways mine came and the top portion is more like orange. Kinda like the limited edition fox forks. Its pretty loud but not ugly. Just means if i dont perform on my bike I'll look like a poser. Spent over 5 hrs cleaning and putting on self healing xcel frame protection. Would be gone with inivisframe if it was available in the interest of time but i feel i did a better job and has much more coverage than what invisiframe offers at less than half the price if you dont count the time spent.

    If you look under your linkage it says "I'm down". Not sure what its intended for?

    I'll post more details since today will be spent on the build. The M frame with x2 shock, guard, and seat clamp is 1300g.

    Roxy's design is sick. Love the curves.
    The paint job is really nice and everything is of high quality. I love the little indent for the x2 climb switch. It may seem like an afterthought at first but its pretty slick only if you have an x2 otherwise its just a dent.

    Ive seen the silver in person, i think its just as nice. I just didn't like the green.



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    Jackson, the frame looks great. Your second picture link doesn't work.

    I've never heard of the frame protector you used. Do you have a link to the exact one you bought? I would like to get that on my bike when it arrives next week. Also any tips for installation?


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    The wait is over! Congrats!

    Spent over 5 hrs cleaning and putting on self healing xcel frame protection. Would be gone with inivisframe if it was available in the interest of time but i feel i did a better job and has much more coverage than what invisiframe offers at less than half the price if you dont count the time spent.
    Yes, what is that stuff? And, I spent probably 15 hours installing my invisiframe.

    If you look under your linkage it says "I'm down". Not sure what its intended for?
    I find that after I take a bike apart I often wish I had paid more attention to the orientation of the parts when I'm trying to put it back together. In seems that with your link, the orientation is clearly marked.

    Its pretty loud but not ugly. Just means if i dont perform on my bike I'll look like a poser.
    lol. Recently, my preferred black Hadley hubs were out of stock, but there were red Hadley hubs in stock. Ultimately, I decided that I wasn't a good enough rider to sport red hubs. Maybe some day!

    Roxy's design is sick. Love the curves.
    Yes! I think they should get rid of the HD4 moniker and call it the RoxyLo 4. Much more panache!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Not sure. Maybe Jenson preordered in advanced.
    Anyways mine came and the top portion is more like orange. Kinda like the limited edition fox forks. Its pretty loud but not ugly. Just means if i dont perform on my bike I'll look like a poser. Spent over 5 hrs cleaning and putting on self healing xcel frame protection. Would be gone with inivisframe if it was available in the interest of time but i feel i did a better job and has much more coverage than what invisiframe offers at less than half the price if you dont count the time spent.

    If you look under your linkage it says "I'm down". Not sure what its intended for?

    I'll post more details since today will be spent on the build. The M frame with x2 shock, guard, and seat clamp is 1300g.

    Roxy's design is sick. Love the curves.
    The paint job is really nice and everything is of high quality. I love the little indent for the x2 climb switch. It may seem like an afterthought at first but its pretty slick only if you have an x2 otherwise its just a dent.

    Ive seen the silver in person, i think its just as nice. I just didn't like the green.



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    Jackson's Eagle landed. You'll be rolling by the weekend. Congrats!

    Now i gotta look at my linkeage to see if I'm Down"

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    Its excel self healing film. Ive spent 40 on it. Here's the item number on ebay. 291738832774
    Its 4 inch wide but they sell different widths, you pay by foot. It takes time cutting out the pieces so you'll need to create your own patterns. I used paper then traced it, just remember when you trace its mirror imaged because you can only trace on the non film side. Ive made that mistake twice.
    15hrs for invisiframe install is really long. Ive completely covered the chainstay, thats where most of scrapes would be. The top tube was a bitch since its curved and requires a long piece. The good thing is that you can peel off and redo or squeegee out the water. Remember to use lots of spray solution on the frame, film and fingers and take your time. Try to avoid sharp edges otherwise it'll lift over time. Im happy with how it came out. Like it a lot more than invisiframe. I only had 3hrs of sleep. Gonna leave work early.

    Btw. For those looking for this info. My ks lev 175mm dropper can be slammed all the way in the medium frame!! Nice.

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    Man, I was hoping that was a pre-cut kit. I can barely apply window tint, let alone cut weird shapes and apply it to the bike.

    I bet the linkage that says I'm down is just a humorous way to tell you the orientation of the linkage itself.

    EDIT: On the Ibis site, my HD4 NX build has 68/73 BB listed. Which one is it, and is that gxp or bb30 standard?
    Last edited by djevox; 09-13-2017 at 01:15 PM.

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    my HD4 NX build has 68/73 BB listed. Which one is it,
    If the BB on the frame is 68mm wide, like on the HD4, then you use a certain configuration of spacers included with the BB; if the BB on the frame is 73mm wide, then you use fewer(no?) spacers. The tech docs for the BB will tell you how to configure the spacers depending on whether your frame has a 68mm or 73mm wide BB.

    and is that gxp or bb30 standard?
    The BB30 standard is for a press fit BB while Ibis frames have threaded BB shells, and according to Bike Radar's Complete guide to bottom brackets, SRAM's GXP bottom brackets/cranks are compatible with a threaded BB:

    Crank designs that will fit: Standard 24mm external type (Shimano Hollowtech II, SRAM/Truvativ GXP, Campagnolo Ultra-Torque, FSA MegaExo, Race Face X-Type, etc), square taper, ISIS, BB386 EVO, many others

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    If the BB on the frame is 68mm wide, like on the HD4, then you use a certain configuration of spacers included with the BB; if the BB on the frame is 73mm wide, then you use fewer(no?) spacers. The tech docs for the BB will tell you how to configure the spacers depending on whether your frame has a 68mm or 73mm wide BB.


    The BB30 standard is for a press fit BB; Ibis uses threaded BB shells, and according to Bike Radar's Complete guide to bottom brackets, SRAM's GXP bottom brackets/cranks are compatible:
    Thanks for putting that info up, I forgot about the spacer arrangement between 68 and 73. However, the second statement from the article confuses me. GXP is 24 mm drive side and 22 mm non- drive side. In the case of a hollowtech crank, it has a straight 24mm shaft. Am I missing something with this?


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    The right and left sides of a BB can have the same external diameter but different internal diameters, right? So an SRAM BB and a Shimano BB can have the same external diameters on both sides of the BB, and therefore both can fit in an Ibis frame, but an SRAM BB can employ two different internal diameters, so as to fit an SRAM crank; while a Shimano BB can employ two identical internal diameters so as to fit a Shimano crank. Consequently, you can't use an SRAM BB with a Shimano crank, nor can you use a Shimano BB with an SRAM crank. Do you want to use a Shimano crank?

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    Happy, I was trying to understand the difference between the two, and I get it now; I appreciate you explaining it. I had an HDR build that I recently scrapped due to frame damage, and I had a shop install the gxp BB because I didn't know the difference. I bought the HD4 nx with the intention of upgrading to eagle later. Now that I get it, it will make it easier when I decide to go through with the upgrade.


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    Talk in the other thread, this thread is for builds

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_20170903_091406.jpg

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_20170903_091420.jpg

    HD4 Large
    Fox 36 160mm
    Chromag BZA bars
    Chromag BZA stem 50mm
    Shimano Saint brakes w 203mm/180mm rotors
    Zelvy Carbon rims on White Industries XMR+ hubs
    KS Lev dropper 150mm
    Chromag Lynx DT saddle
    Raceface Turbine cranks
    Shimano XTR derailleur
    Shimano XTR shifter
    SRAM X01 cassette
    DMR vault pedals

    Weight: 13.8kg with pedals

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    Nice Gear room..bikes, canoes, Liquor
    Thanks!

    It's actually my living room but it'll have to do until I get a place with a garage. Hahaha!

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    First hd4 ride today. After the build, the first thing i thought was, damn, its a big bike.

    Its been about a month since ive been on bike and i took it out on my normal route, about 17 miles and 2300ft. Coming off the mojo3 and here are my initial thoughts. Fortunately the hd4 exhibited none of the concerns i had. It didnt wander on steep climbs and it climbed well. It didnt climb as well as the m3. It felt noticeably heavier and required a little more effort however the traction on the techy climbs were improved, surprisingly, may be attributed to the float x2. The hd4 was more stable and wasnt as agile as the m3 but was good enough. The hd4 wanted to go straight and on some gnar i did just that. It was fun plowing but during the entire time i was thinking, omg, what am i doing, what if i get in over my head. The hd4 performed flawlessly. The downhill doesnt need a review, its satisfyingly crunchy. The climbing was tough i have to say. I dont know if it's the extra weight or the slack angles and im usually a decent climber. Towards the end of the ride i developed cramps in both of my inner quads. I dont know if its because i haven't been on a bike in a while, only having slept 6hrs in 2 days, or im using different muscles due to the slackness of the bike. I do have my seat about 15mm forward. The mojo3 was easier to jump and pop off things. I think the m3 is a bit more fun and probably a good match for the trails i ride. The hd4 allows me to descend faster with more stability and thats a different type of fun. There are no surprises moving from the m3 to hd4. You don't get anything for free, youre just moving attributes around. I'll need at least a month to get use to the new bike. One thing i didnt like is that i can't fit my 28oz bottle in the frame. It can only hold a small bottle, im not sure if its even worth doing. I do like the position of the climb switch, very easy to reach. I didnt notice a difference between that and open though, not sure why. The bike is a little more stiff but not by much nor would it matter to me. It wasnt so stiff that its uncomfortable.

    I have xtr brakes, shifter, e13 cassette, rekon 2.8, g4 cranks, 175mm ks lev dropper. The fox36 rc2 and x2 are fabulous components, they are so compliant. My build came out to about 28lbs with pedals and probably 30lbs with all the crap i hang off it (pumps, bag, tool, bottle). My fork has 91psi and shock has 210psi. Im about 185-190 kitted. All the compression settings are default as listed in the manual and seems to be good for now.

    The only thing ive changed from the m3 is going from 30 to 28 chainring and went from 170 to 175 cranks. Didnt notice anymore anymore pedal strikes but i was searching for gears a lot. Just need to get use to the new gear ratio. In hindsight, the m3 would've been fine and a better all day bike, more balanced. However, the m3 sometimes feels like it's not enough bike in certain sections. I think in the long run I'll be faster overall once i get use to the new geo. I didnt break any PRs today.


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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    First hd4 ride today. After the build, the first thing i thought was, damn, its a big bike.

    Its been about a month since ive been on bike and i took it out on my normal route, about 17 miles and 2300ft. Coming off the mojo3 and here are my initial thoughts. Fortunately the hd4 exhibited none of the concerns i had. It didnt wander on steep climbs and it climbed well. It didnt climb as well as the m3. It felt noticeably heavier and required a little more effort however the traction on the techy climbs were improved, surprisingly, may be attributed to the float x2. The hd4 was more stable and wasnt as agile as the m3 but was good enough. The hd4 wanted to go straight and on some gnar i did just that. It was fun plowing but during the entire time i was thinking, omg, what am i doing, what if i get in over my head. The hd4 performed flawlessly. The downhill doesnt need a review, its satisfyingly crunchy. The climbing was tough i have to say. I dont know if it's the extra weight or the slack angles and im usually a decent climber. Towards the end of the ride i developed cramps in both of my inner quads. I dont know if its because i haven't been on a bike in a while, only having slept 6hrs in 2 days, or im using different muscles due to the slackness of the bike. I do have my seat about 15mm forward. The mojo3 was easier to jump and pop off things. I think the m3 is a bit more fun and probably a good match for the trails i ride. The hd4 allows me to descend faster with more stability and thats a different type of fun. There are no surprises moving from the m3 to hd4. You don't get anything for free, youre just moving attributes around. I'll need at least a month to get use to the new bike. One thing i didnt like is that i can't fit my 28oz bottle in the frame. It can only hold a small bottle, im not sure if its even worth doing. I do like the position of the climb switch, very easy to reach. I didnt notice a difference between that and open though, not sure why. The bike is a little more stiff but not by much nor would it matter to me. It wasnt so stiff that its uncomfortable.

    I have xtr brakes, shifter, e13 cassette, rekon 2.8, g4 cranks, 175mm ks lev dropper. The fox36 rc2 and x2 are fabulous components, they are so compliant. My build came out to about 28lbs with pedals and probably 30lbs with all the crap i hang off it (pumps, bag, tool, bottle). My fork has 91psi and shock has 210psi. Im about 185-190 kitted. All the compression settings are default as listed in the manual and seems to be good for now.

    The only thing ive changed from the m3 is going from 30 to 28 chainring and went from 170 to 175 cranks. Didnt notice anymore anymore pedal strikes but i was searching for gears a lot. Just need to get use to the new gear ratio. In hindsight, the m3 would've been fine and a better all day bike, more balanced. However, the m3 sometimes feels like it's not enough bike in certain sections. I think in the long run I'll be faster overall once i get use to the new geo. I didnt break any PRs today.


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    Maybe drop down to 2.6-2.5 tires to makes things more lively.

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    Yeah was thinking of that. I have a new set of dhf/ rekon 2.8 tires i was gonna use too.
    Or maybe my suspension is isnt set optimally. It may be too soft, may need to play with the lpw speed compression setting.

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  31. #31
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    Love this bike!

    Large frame
    Fox 36 RC2 and Fox X2
    Ibis Carbon wheels
    Sram GX Eagle with XO cranks
    Sram Guide RS brakes
    Fox Transfer 150mm dropper with Wolftooth lever
    Ibis carbon bar
    Maxxis Minion DHF 2.6 and Rekon 2.6
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_0929.jpg  


  32. #32
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    What size water bottle is that?

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  33. #33
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    22oz

  34. #34
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    Somebody please start and HD4 owner review/action shot thread!

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    Ive placed a 22oz in my medium frame and looks like the float x2 will hit the bottle. I dont think itll work. Thats a bummer. I really liked having a 28oz bottle on my mojo3.

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    I have the same issue with a large frame and the float x2. It is a little better with the Arundel side loader cage since it has two different sets of mounting holes but I need to find a bottle that is about a 1/2 inch shorter.

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    I dont think anything useful can be used with the float x2 on my medium. Would be nice to have an odd shaped 1L custom made bottle. I dont want to hang a stubby 16oz, looks stupid.

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  38. #38
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    I see all this water bottle talk, and I could not imagine drinking less than half to 1 gallon of water on my rides; I'm firmly in the Camelback camp. Is that water bottle on you guy's frames the only water you drink when you're riding?


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    You guys are so SLACKED OUT!! Jealous over here, keep the pics comin'

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    Some ppl train not to need so much water but i go through 2-3 liters in 3hrs if its hot and much less when its not.

    Went out riding today
    New dirt, riding blind. Hd4 performed flawlessly. It gives up a little to the m3 but only a little. Its the combo of weight and slackness BUT you give up a little and get more confidence on the downs. I'll take it. The low seat tube length and flats saved my ass as a hit a turn on a soft corner. I dab'd quick like Bruce Lee. I took some ibuprofen for my sore muscles the other day which i think was from having my seat 1 inch too low. Im very happy with the hd4. Now i need to figure out the water siruatiin1
    Might need to get a bum pack like the evoc race. Its 1.5L which is probably a little overstated. I got a few mutherload straps too. If anyone wants to buy a new one in teal. let me know. Thr default suspension settings seems to be perfect so far. Im running 15%/25% sag. The HD4 is a good pedaler in open mode. 2.8 rekons have been great. Would like to try 2.6 to see what its like.

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  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Some ppl train not to need so much water but i go through 2-3 liters in 3hrs if its hot and much less when its not.

    Went out riding today
    New dirt, riding blind. Hd4 performed flawlessly. It gives up a little to the m3 but only a little. Its the combo of weight and slackness BUT you give up a little and get more confidence on the downs. I'll take it. The low seat tube length and flats saved my ass as a hit a turn on a soft corner. I dab'd quick like Bruce Lee. I took some ibuprofen for my sore muscles the other day which i think was from having my seat 1 inch too low. Im very happy with the hd4. Now i need to figure out the water siruatiin1
    Might need to get a bum pack like the evoc race. Its 1.5L which is probably a little overstated. I got a few mutherload straps too. If anyone wants to buy a new one in teal. let me know. Thr default suspension settings seems to be perfect so far. Im running 15%/25% sag. The HD4 is a good pedaler in open mode. 2.8 rekons have been great. Would like to try 2.6 to see what its like.

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    My 22oz bottle clears the X2 no problem.
    It didn't clear at first, it would bump the bottle forward into the frame when there was about 15mm of stanchion left.
    I had to move the Arundel side loader to the upper mounting holes to push it closer to the seat tube. Then had to put some washers ( 2 back, 1 forward) under the cage so the back bottom of the cage doesn't rub the frame. Now the back of the bottle just rests against the seat tube, so I put a little protective tape there. Works great now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_0934.jpg  

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_0933.jpg  


  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Some ppl train not to need so much water but i go through 2-3 liters in 3hrs if its hot and much less when its not.

    Went out riding today
    New dirt, riding blind. Hd4 performed flawlessly. It gives up a little to the m3 but only a little. Its the combo of weight and slackness BUT you give up a little and get more confidence on the downs. I'll take it. The low seat tube length and flats saved my ass as a hit a turn on a soft corner. I dab'd quick like Bruce Lee. I took some ibuprofen for my sore muscles the other day which i think was from having my seat 1 inch too low. Im very happy with the hd4. Now i need to figure out the water siruatiin1
    Might need to get a bum pack like the evoc race. Its 1.5L which is probably a little overstated. I got a few mutherload straps too. If anyone wants to buy a new one in teal. let me know. Thr default suspension settings seems to be perfect so far. Im running 15%/25% sag. The HD4 is a good pedaler in open mode. 2.8 rekons have been great. Would like to try 2.6 to see what its like.

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    Where did you ride? Do you mean it gives up a bit on the climbs to the M3?

  43. #43
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    Road with the trek girls group ride today at sycamore. First time at beelers and Martha. The m3 feels a little lighter and climbs a little easier and a little easier to turn on tight switchbacks which all makes sense. I still prefer the hd4 for what i want. If i was more trail and xc, m3 all the way. I like more rocky tech sections. The hd4 climbs better on techy sections though. Not sure why.

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  44. #44
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    [QUOTE=jacksonlui;13340192]Road with the trek girls group ride today at sycamore. First time at beelers and Martha. The m3 feels a little lighter and climbs a little easier and a little easier to turn on tight switchbacks which all makes sense. I still prefer the hd4 for what i want. If i was more trail and xc, m3 all the way. I like more rocky tech sections. The hd4 climbs better on techy sections though. Not sure why.

    Cool! I think I know someone from that ride group. I haven't rode there in a while. Glad you are liking it so far. Probably a much bigger change from the M3 then from an HD3.

  45. #45
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    I am having a hell of a time getting the HD4 cockpit set-up for my liking.

    In some respects it is unfair, as I have the Evil Calling dialed for me. The Calling fits me like a glove. It fits so well, that it lets me do so many fun things when riding it. Here's the weird thing, the HD4 which has a longer front center yet feels smaller when out of the saddle.

    I have been beyond fickle with the set-up, changing spacers under the stem, bar roll, bar width, etc. I do think I am closer. The Calling has a higher stack and I have a spacer under the stem, but I have learned that I can't set the HD4 similarly owing to the longer front center. I know I am tweener size being 5' 8.5", but the large would be too big. I don't like short stems, I prefer 50mm. I also have the Firebird and that bike feels long. I was something more playful.

    I really want to get the fit dialed as I truly believe the HD4's extra travel and geometry will make it perfect match for the Calling.

    Positives....
    1) I use to think the Insurgent was one of the best pedaling bikes, but this one is better. It just accelerates when in the saddle. Cliche but true, it feels like you have an extra gear with this bike. The suspension is not as plush when pedaling, but you can motor up and over things, it requires a different technique to get to the top.
    2) Once you get the HD4 going, wow it comes alive, it almost scary and you start to feel like the riders in the video. It is cool feeling, but I haven't been consistent doing this yet.
    3) The color, looks, bottle in triangle, threaded BB, etc are awesome
    4) Fox Transfer post works great
    5) no low BB issues that I had with the Mojo 3

    Negatives
    1) I do find HD4 noisy, I get these weird pops/creaks here and there.
    2) Not sure about the Fox 36, I use to be a Fox guy, than I went Pike/Lyrik with MRP and the Fox just feels harsh and I think makes the rear end feel a tad harsh, if I let the air out it sags too much for liking.
    3) just can't dial the bike in yet - this probably more me than anything.

    More to follow when I finally dial it in...

  46. #46
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    I do find HD4 noisy, I get these weird pops/creaks here and there
    Have you checked the torques on all the linkage bolts?

  47. #47
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    My hd4 is pretty quiet. Only one gear makes a little noise but i think its the derailleur or e13 cassette. Im also 5.8 and doesnt feel cramped. Do you think the balance of your suspension can cause how the bike feels out of saddle?

    I've had a chance to weight the bike and it came out to be 27.5 lbs without pedals and 28.25 with pedals. But after I add on the pump, bag, tools, cage, empty bottle, bell, etc... It's closer to 30lbs.

    The 28T chainring e13 9-46t combo is what I have. In the 9T, the chain rubs the plastic guard a little, not really that big of a deal and I don't use that cog much at all. Just some info for others who is thinking of a 26T chainring, it might be a problem. The e13 doesn't shift that great but I love the range. Others have reported similar experiences. It's a little better with the XTR clutch off. I don't think I need the clutch since I'm using an absolute chainguard and taco bash.

  48. #48
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    I found my 36s awful for 6 months after coming off lyriks. Things I've found that help:
    - open rebound, I now run 12-14 clicks from closed
    - open HSC, I basically run none (2) and let the spring do the work
    - moderate LSC, I'm running 6 clicks from closed, and basically adjust this as I did on pike/lyrik

    Despite the open settings there is still plenty of control, which was a surprise as I generally ran my lyrik very slow

  49. #49
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    Thanks for the helpful suggestions

    Fit - I realize some of this is muscle memory. The HD4 is definitely harder to dial in. What I am finding is that I need to run wider bars, it feels more natural when doing this, but also got some pain in my shoulder when doing this. The only other bike that I constantly fiddled with cockpit is the Firebird. The Firebird is a long bike so getting it dialed for in the saddle and out of the saddle seem to be at odds with each other. In general, I feel like I am battling my hand position on the HD4 with bars and overly weighting the front end. I am not giving up on this.

    Noise - being that bike is brand new, I would assume the normal culprits are out. It occurs in or out of the saddle. I did find two linkage bolts loose, but that was some time ago and the noise is still there. I wonder if it is the internal routing and how the cables are stacked relative to each other.

    Fork - thanks! I will try this on the Fox 36. The Pike and Lyrik with MRP ramp up are amazing. Yes I find the Pike and Lyrik to be slow in the parking lot, but work so well on the trail.

  50. #50
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    It occurs in or out of the saddle.
    My number one creak fixer is: remove the pedals, clean the threaded axle portion as well as the threaded hole in the crank, regrease the threaded axle portion making sure the shoulder is greased, reinstall.

  51. #51
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    Dude, what size bars are you running?


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    Dude! Maybe the shockwiz might help with the more complicated rc2 and x2.

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    Pops are often headset, perhaps it wasn't greased when assembled? You can also get pops/cracks if the teflon washer has been removed from the rear axle.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by thepusher View Post
    Dude, what size bars are you running?


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    In general, I have found ~770mm bars to work best on many of my bikes. I seem to prefer ~780mm on the HD4, it is surprising how 10mm actually slows the front end handling down and the increase in leverage in controlling the bike. I can throw the bike around with greater confidence. It is truly amazing. However, after doing this two weeks ago, I got a pain in my shoulder the the following day it was so bad that I almost went to hospital. The pain eventually went away. I am slowly trying the 780 bars again because at 770 it is too twitchy and feels more like an XC bike. With 780 bars, I can really attack the trail.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creg View Post
    Pops are often headset, perhaps it wasn't greased when assembled? You can also get pops/cracks if the teflon washer has been removed from the rear axle.
    Thanks. I build all of my bikes, as I have learned that I care the most about the build and will take my time to do it right. I also enjoy building my bikes. Therefore, I know the headset is properly greased, etc. I feel like I may need to take the shock off and check the bolts. It is definitely more of a pop than a creak.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Dude! Maybe the shockwiz might help with the more complicated rc2 and x2.

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    I haven't been overly impressed with the shockwiz but may pull it out for this.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dude! View Post
    In general, I have found ~770mm bars to work best on many of my bikes. I seem to prefer ~780mm on the HD4, it is surprising how 10mm actually slows the front end handling down and the increase in leverage in controlling the bike. I can throw the bike around with greater confidence. It is truly amazing. However, after doing this two weeks ago, I got a pain in my shoulder the the following day it was so bad that I almost went to hospital. The pain eventually went away. I am slowly trying the 780 bars again because at 770 it is too twitchy and feels more like an XC bike. With 780 bars, I can really attack the trail.
    It's funny, I expected your answer to be 800mm for some reason. It's interesting to that you find 780 to be a good width, because that's what Ibis put on my build. I get my bike tonight, so I'll see how I like them. I'm 5'6" with a somewhat short reach, so it will be interesting to see what combo stem/bars I end up with.


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  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by thepusher View Post
    It's funny, I expected your answer to be 800mm for some reason. It's interesting to that you find 780 to be a good width, because that's what Ibis put on my build. I get my bike tonight, so I'll see how I like them. I'm 5'6" with a somewhat short reach, so it will be interesting to see what combo stem/bars I end up with.


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    No way I could ride 800mm. I am 5 8.5" with fairly wide shoulder (all of those years of swimming), and I find 780 to be my max. On a DH bike, may consider wider, but even than never felt the need.

    I learned some time ago how important the whole bar width, stem, spacers under the stem, bar role influence the behavior of the bike. I have different bars, stems, and use the santa grips which have hard inner shelf so you can slide them out a bit to tinker with bar width. My buddies thought I was crazy and my one buddy came over to my house and I changed this slightly on his bike and he was blown away by the impact.

    I did try a 40mm stem on the bike, and it was okay.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dude! View Post
    Thanks. I build all of my bikes, as I have learned that I care the most about the build and will take my time to do it right. I also enjoy building my bikes. Therefore, I know the headset is properly greased, etc. I feel like I may need to take the shock off and check the bolts. It is definitely more of a pop than a creak.
    Oh right, I thought when you said it was all new that you bought a complete build

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creg View Post
    Oh right, I thought when you said it was all new that you bought a complete build
    Sorry, yeah bought a complete bike, but built it myself! Of course I swapped some of my favorite parts on it in the process.

  61. #61
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    Just got mine today! My wife saw me on camera carrying the box to the garage and texted "don't hurt the bike with your boner." I'm cutting some 3m clear film for frame protection tomorrow, then finishing putting it together. I haven't bought a brand new bike in 21 years, so this is pretty fun.





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    Lol. Youre wife is funny.
    Still dialing the suspension. Rebound seems quick. Seems harder to pop off things. But loving it. Crunch crunch

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  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Lol. Youre wife is funny.
    Still dialing the suspension. Rebound seems quick. Seems harder to pop off things. But loving it. Crunch crunch
    What do you mean by harder to pop off things?


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  64. #64
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    Off little boulders, small launches with a small face or lip. Maybe its just dialing in the suspension and getting use to a longer bike with more travel. Ive slowed down the rebound just now front and back.

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  65. #65
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    Daleyriding. What pressures are you using front and back for that 2.6 combo? I was thinking 19/20

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  66. #66
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    Seems harder to pop off things....Ive slowed down the rebound just now front and back.
    So, right before taking flight you pump to compress your suspension, but instead of the rebound launching you into the air, the suspension rebounds like molasses, and you don't leave the ground? I suggest you speed up the rebound, i.e. decrease rebound damping, i.e. turn the knob counter clockwise. You could do the same for the compression damping as well.

  67. #67
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    Wouldnt turning the hsc/lsc compression counter clockwise make it more mushy?

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  68. #68
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    Counter clockwise reduces damping. Damping slows things down. Compression damping converts some of the energy that you use to compress your suspension into heat, and therefore that energy is not available for rebound.

    If you want a fork that will help you pop off things, then turn all the knobs fully counter clockwise. That will be the maximum popiness.

    Wouldnt turning the hsc/lsc compression counter clockwise make it more mushy?
    Yes, in the sense that if your suspension was fully damped, it would be a rigid bike. I like to think of counter clockwise as springy, rather than mushy, and clockwise as less springy.

    Perform two tests:

    1) Turn all knobs fully clockwise, and see how popy your bike feels.
    2) Turn all knobs fully counter clockwise and see how popy your bike feels.

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Daleyriding. What pressures are you using front and back for that 2.6 combo? I was thinking 19/20

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    I run 18 front 19 rear

  70. #70
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    What rotor sizes are you guys running? Mine came with f180/r160, but I have a brand new 203 and 180 icetech rotors collecting dust. I also have a 160 to 180 bracket, but have to pick up the 180 to 203 bracket for the '18 fox 36 performance shock. I loved the large combo on my 26er, am I'm guessing I will on the hd4 also.


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  71. #71
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    Im running 160/180 , no brackets. I dont have enough sustained downhills and seems fine. I so use semi metallic pads tho.

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    Mine came 180f 180r. Just bumped the front to 200. I like it better.

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    Thx happyriding. Ive always associated r
    rebound with springy speed and compression as stiffness. I'll play with it.

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  74. #74
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    compression as stiffness
    Increasing compression damping does make the fork feel stiffer. The fork doesn't compress as far when you pump on it making it feel firm. The fork converts some of the energy you put into compressing the fork into heat in the oil. As a result, the (air) spring doesn't compress as far, storing less energy for the rebound. And if you damp the rebound, then some of the lesser stored energy will get converted into more heat in the oil, reducing the pop of the rebound even more.

    Keep in mind that the goal of finely tuned suspension is to keep your wheels on the ground to maximize traction, which is at odds with what you are trying to achieve. I also think that Ibis's recommended settings make the Fox 36 RC2 feel dead, albeit on an HD3, so I have been reducing damping to give my 2018 Fox 36 RC2 more pop.

  75. #75
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    What fork settings do you have currently that youre happy with?
    Psi
    Rebound from closed
    Hsc / lsc from closed?


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  76. #76
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    Dude! - my M3 drove me crazy with a pop. I had to give up my man-card and took it to the local Ibis dealer and they put teflon tape around the shock at the lower mount. Never seen or heard of that in 16 years of full suspension creak tracking. Only just got it back but cannot get it to pop in what was previously very easy to repeat. Apologies if that is something you have already tried!

  77. #77
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    Never seen or heard of that in 16 years of full suspension creak tracking.
    Well known on the Ibis forum:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNebDTwadd8

  78. #78
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    1 picture - 4 generations of HDs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-21558854_1854899124526470_1323227732416872063_n.jpg  


  79. #79
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    Love the low seat tube, can't wait to build it up.

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    Last edited by jacksonlui; 02-27-2019 at 02:11 PM.

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Did 30 miles and 3400ft climbing today at cuyamaca and noble canyon on my HD4. It was in its element. Great climber for sure. I opened up the lsc 2 clicks. Love the low seat tube, i almost have my dropper slammed. Lots of stability and confidence. Love the bike.

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    Sounds sweet! I'm jealous!

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Did 30 miles and 3400ft climbing today at cuyamaca and noble canyon on my HD4. It was in its element. Great climber for sure. I opened up the lsc 2 clicks. Love the low seat tube, i almost have my dropper slammed. Lots of stability and confidence. Love the bike.

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    How did you overcome your original reservations from your first review? Looking at the frame myself but concerned that the wheelbase on medium is too long. Bike wants tomgo straight and not turn, explosive acceleration into jumps might suffer and poppiness off small features.

  82. #82
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    I didnt. The m3 is still more agile. I got the hd4 because i had wanted something a little more stable at speed and more capable on tech features which also didnt give up much in the climbing dept.
    Last edited by jacksonlui; 02-27-2019 at 02:10 PM.

  83. #83
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    Nice pic Dijck. Nice ride jacksonlui.

    What fork settings do you have currently that youre happy with?
    Psi
    Rebound from closed
    Hsc / lsc from closed?
    I'm not sure how it would be relevant to you but...

    psi: 90 (Fox recommends 106 psi)
    HSC: 22 clicks counterclockwise (Ibis recommends 18 clicks)
    LSC: 15 clicks counterclockwise (Ibis recommends 13 clicks)
    rebound: 9 clicks counterclockwise (Fox recommends 5 clicks for 90 psi)

    I'm still playing around, but that feels pretty good.

  84. #84
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    Cool thx.

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    Last edited by jacksonlui; 02-27-2019 at 02:10 PM.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    Nice pic Dijck. Nice ride jacksonlui.


    I'm not sure how it would be relevant to you but...

    psi: 90 (Fox recommends 106 psi)
    HSC: 22 clicks counterclockwise (Ibis recommends 18 clicks)
    LSC: 15 clicks counterclockwise (Ibis recommends 13 clicks)
    rebound: 9 clicks counterclockwise (Fox recommends 5 clicks for 90 psi)

    I'm still playing around, but that feels pretty good.
    Thatís interesting that fox says the max psi of the 36 fork is 125, but a lot of riders seem to be between 170-200 lbs. Thatís not much leeway between 100-125.


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  86. #86
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    Don't forget, you can add spacers to the fork and lower the pressure.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    Don't forget, you can add spacers to the fork and lower the pressure.
    I had my inaugural ride of the hd4 today. It's an NX build with '18 fox performance 36 float fork, and '18 performance dpx2 float rear shock. I'm 200lbs, so about 210 depending on what I'm carrying on the ride. I set the front shock to 100 psi for sag. Set the rear at 185 to achieve the right sag. The front and rear don't have hsc/lsc knobs, only rebound and the 3 position knob. I was very unimpressed with the performance of both over small jumps. The largest jump I hit had me about 5 feet in the air, and I bottomed both shocks. They were almost bottoming on 1-2 foot jumps, and I got a lot of bobbing when pedalling. I'm going to have to do something to get these shocks in order. I'm guessing the rear can still have volume spacers put in it, but I don't know for the front since the fork is an '18. I wonder if more fluid can be put in, or if I need something else? (I've read that '18's don't use tokens any more)

    On a different note, I was extremely unhappy with the 2.6 minion dhf's (on ibis 738 rims) while running tubes. I had to run 28psi to not roll the tires; my front end was almost washing out on most of my turns. I don't know what the deal with that was, but I've already converted them to tubeless. Additionally, I'm not really thrilled with Ibis's logo rear hub. Not suprisingly, they have low engagement and are pretty loud. I don't know if I'll be replacing the hubs or not.

  88. #88
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    I'm going with a dhf 2.6 3c and using 19psi tubeless on 35mm id.


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    Last edited by jacksonlui; 02-27-2019 at 02:17 PM.

  89. #89
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    Well, my fox float x2 is stuck down so I am going to have to warranty it. It is a good thing I live close to Fox. Bummer I missed out on riding the HD4 this weekend. That's why you own more than 1 bike to avoid downtime!

    BTW - I just brought the MRP ramp up upgrade for the Fox 36. The nice thing about the 2018 FOX the MRP is simple switch, where previous models required much more work and dropping the lowers. I have enjoyed the MRP ramp up on the PIKE and LYRIK so excited to try this on the Fox 36.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dude! View Post

    BTW - I just brought the MRP ramp up upgrade for the Fox 36. The nice thing about the 2018 FOX the MRP is simple switch, where previous models required much more work and dropping the lowers. I have enjoyed the MRP ramp up on the PIKE and LYRIK so excited to try this on the Fox 36.
    Did they provide some type of instructions for the 2018 fork?



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  91. #91
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    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by thepusher View Post
    Did they provide some type of instructions for the 2018 fork?



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    just did some research, and I think I will be trying one of these. I like how it doesnít mess too much with initial or mid stroke.

    Edit: Tapatalk has me quoting myself? Weird

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  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by thepusher View Post
    I had my inaugural ride of the hd4 today. It's an NX build with '18 fox performance 36 float fork, and '18 performance dpx2 float rear shock. I'm 200lbs, so about 210 depending on what I'm carrying on the ride. I set the front shock to 100 psi for sag. Set the rear at 185 to achieve the right sag. The front and rear don't have hsc/lsc knobs, only rebound and the 3 position knob. I was very unimpressed with the performance of both over small jumps. The largest jump I hit had me about 5 feet in the air, and I bottomed both shocks. They were almost bottoming on 1-2 foot jumps, and I got a lot of bobbing when pedalling. I'm going to have to do something to get these shocks in order. I'm guessing the rear can still have volume spacers put in it, but I don't know for the front since the fork is an '18. I wonder if more fluid can be put in, or if I need something else? (I've read that '18's don't use tokens any more)
    If you read the instructions about how to add volume spacers to a 2018 Fox 36 fork, there is no exclusion for any of the various versions of the Fox 36. In other words, my reading of the docs is that you can add spacers to any 2018 Fox 36 fork. The only other thing that I've read about the spacers said that they are easier to install in the 2018 forks: apparently all you have to do is remove the top cap and shove a spacer into the fork leg.

    According to the Fox docs, you should have an inner knob on your three position adjuster with 22 clicks of compression damping that applies to the Open mode only. If you do have that inner knob, I would turn it clockwise to dial in some compression damping to help you with bottom out. If you do not have that inner knob, you could at least turn the three position knob to Firm to get some compression damping.

    I have a new HD3 with a 160mm 2018 Fox Performance 36 with the RC2 damper (HSC/LSC knobs == C2, one rebound knob == R). It sounds like you have the FIT4 damper. Today I was doing some urban riding, and I found a 2 foot wall next to a steep utility driveway. At the top of the driveway, I could access a dirt patch along the top of the wall, then ride along the dirt patch until I picked a spot to drop onto the driveway. I weigh 250 lbs geared up, and I have 90 psi in my fork. I just went and measured the distance my o-ring is from the top of my stanchion, and I've got 50mm of travel left. According to the info on that 2018 Fox 36 page, a 160mm Fox 36 comes with 1 spacer installed from the factory, and you can install up to 6 spacers. I wonder if your fork has 0 spacers installed, or whether my fork has more than 1 spacer installed?!

    jacksonlui,

    The 28T chainring e13 9-46t combo is what I have.
    Are you aware that a lot of (most?) enduro bikes are designed around a 34 or 36 1x chainring? There's no information yet about the HD4 at linkagedesign, but according to linkagedesign the HD3 is optimal with a 36T chainring. I imagine the HD4 won't be significantly different. Have you thought about going to a 2x instead of using such a small 28T chainring? Then at least some of your riding would be closer to using an optimal chainring for your HD4's DW link suspension.

    Also, today I felt no bucking sensation on the drops I was doing with my rebound settings dialed out. I was also playing around on some stairs with a landing between the stairs. I rode down the first set of stairs onto the landing, then I tried to bunny hop and clear the lower set of stairs. I never cleared the lower set of stairs, so my back wheel would hit the last couple of stairs, and I never felt like my rebound was trying to buck me off the bike. I'm going to try dialing out my HSC and rebound some more to get more pop off the landing.

    Dude!,
    Well, my fox float x2 is stuck down so I am going to have to warranty it. It is a good thing I live close to Fox.
    Wtf?! How did that come about? Helicopter off the Red Bull Tower, then landing to flat? How much do you weigh?
    Last edited by happyriding; 09-25-2017 at 04:03 AM.

  93. #93
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    Happy, thanks for linking that. I put my 4 digit code in foxís site, and no product literature showed up. Right now Iím looking at MRP versus Push asc-3. I want to keep things as light as possible, but since I have the base performance fork (no hsc/lsc adjustment), I donít know if itís worth it to just buy an upgraded fork.


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    The Squeaky Wheel has posted in several places that he prefers a custom tuned FIT4 to the stock RC2:

    1: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspen...4-1054339.html
    2: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspen...a-1043157.html

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by thepusher View Post
    Happy, thanks for linking that. I put my 4 digit code in foxís site, and no product literature showed up. Right now Iím looking at MRP versus Push asc-3. I want to keep things as light as possible, but since I have the base performance fork (no hsc/lsc adjustment), I donít know if itís worth it to just buy an upgraded fork.


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    The MRP does two things easily - 1) you can adjust your bottom out, it actually gives you a better feel for how much spacers/bottom you need. 2) it is a hydraulic bottom out, it is more controlled. This doesn't replace the HSC, LSC, R tuning, but it does let you make the air pressure more linear or progressive based on the bottom out. Turning a knob and notice the difference is much easier than changing spacers and it basically provides more subtle changes in the progression.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    Wtf?! How did that come about? Helicopter off the Red Bull Tower, then landing to flat? How much do you weigh?
    Haha - I wish, if you consider jumping off a curb red bull than I am in. I got new digital shock pump and was dialing in the air pressure and tested in front of my house and instantly it blew through the travel and got stuck down. Fox is already on it and will be back and running in no time. I will get the 411 on the why this happened and report back.

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    Happy
    Can u quantify the efficiency diff between the 28 and 36? I didnt think it was significant or noticeable.
    I dont want a 2x and the 28t is niceeeee!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dude! View Post
    The MRP does two things easily - 1) you can adjust your bottom out, it actually gives you a better feel for how much spacers/bottom you need. 2) it is a hydraulic bottom out, it is more controlled. This doesn't replace the HSC, LSC, R tuning, but it does let you make the air pressure more linear or progressive based on the bottom out. Turning a knob and notice the difference is much easier than changing spacers and it basically provides more subtle changes in the progression.
    I had a great conversation with a guy at MRP. We discussed me keeping the fork I have versus buying one with the high and low speed compression adjustment. I ended up ordering the cartridge for the fork I already have; I will have the cartridge day after tomorrow. Now if I could just get some freakin float x Air spring spacers. You would think those things are gold with how hard they are to get.


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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post

    According to the Fox docs, you should have an inner knob on your three position adjuster with 22 clicks of compression damping that applies to the Open mode only. If you do have that inner knob, I would turn it clockwise to dial in some compression damping to help you with bottom out. If you do not have that inner knob, you could at least turn the three position knob to Firm to get some compression damping.
    Just saw this. I have the performance- the compression damping (over the 3pos knob) starts with the performance elite.

  100. #100
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    I thought I had read somewhere that the new DW link was optimized around a 32 tooth chainring.

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    I asked ibis and they said its so minor i wont notice a difference. With the 28t oval i probably get a little more antisquat and more kickback which i dont feel or at least not problematic. Too much antisquat will cause traction issues on techy climbs which i havent experienced. I did notice the climb switch didnt really do much. Open mode on the x2 seems to climb well. So in the end it seems like any inefficiency isnt a hinderance that i can see thus far. I like having my climbing gears. Suffering is so overrated.

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  102. #102
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    Just got this in, and am installing it today-


    Also bought a used monarch RT shock to put on the bike while I send the dpx2 to Avalanche for some magic.


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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    I asked ibis and they said its so minor i wont notice a difference. With the 28t oval i probably get a little more antisquat and more kickback which i dont feel or at least not problematic. Too much antisquat will cause traction issues on techy climbs which i havent experienced. I did notice the climb switch didnt really do much. Open mode on the x2 seems to climb well. So in the end it seems like any inefficiency isnt a hinderance that i can see thus far. I like having my climbing gears. Suffering is so overrated.

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    28T cranking to an an Eagle on the back? :-) I think 28T oval will act like a 30T (for antisquat) or least that is when you applying the greatest force on pedals.

    But I am tempted to try a oval ring on when I get my new bike.

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    Not eagle. I have the e13. Poor man's eagle.

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  105. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Not eagle. I have the e13. Poor man's eagle.

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    Lol, Iíve never heard that before. With everything Iíve been hearing and reading about eagle problems, I stuck with an 11sp build on my new bike; I believe 11sp is the right choice until the kinks get worked out.


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  106. #106
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    If you look at the pic of Robin W. on mtbr today's front page, it looks like he was able to fit a 28oz bottle which has a smaller lid to avoid the shock. Anyone know what bottle that is?

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  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    If you look at the pic of Robin W. on mtbr today's front page, it looks like he was able to fit a 28oz bottle which has a smaller lid to avoid the shock. Anyone know what bottle that is?

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    Dollar store water bottle.


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  108. #108
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    Im gonna let out the air in my shock and stick a big bottle in and see if it hits while compressed.

    As far as dialing in the suspension, im moving towards recommended clicks as per the fox manual.

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  109. #109
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    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread

    It was really cool on robin wís race rig how he had the spare tube tied up, and the co2 on the side of the water bottle. I want that.

    Oh, and dollar store water bottle was a joke if anyone didnít catch that.


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    12milea at Ringwood NJ. It does not sound to much, but it was around 3.5h moving time... You know how it is when you have to use the rocks to smooth out other rocks


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    I'm absolutely loving the bike! Just got back from Oakridge, we climbed 13k ft and descended 17k The HD4 preformed amazingly.

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_4428.jpgMojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_4429.jpgMojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_4436.jpgMojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_4449.jpgMojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_4461.jpg

  112. #112
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    Congrats. Two nice rides on that hitch!

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  113. #113
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    Anyone using a mrp cartridge in their fox 36 and feel it makes a big difference?

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    Added EDC and pork chop to go packless on shorter rides. I liked the EDC so much I got the OneUp pedals too

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_20171007_180624.jpg

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_20171007_180638.jpg

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_20171007_180647.jpg

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_20171007_180730.jpg

  115. #115
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    Some nice looking new builds!!!!

    I am back on my HD4, Fox gave me a new shock. My creak continued until I finally broke down and tore all of the linkages apart, regreased them, loctite, torque - now the bike is silent -woohoo! I was kind of annoyed that I had to do this and scratched the bike slightly in the process. Each day is a new day, so I moved along and it is a mountain bike so it is meant to be scratched. However, if your bike creaks, take my advice and start with the linkages. I did everything else before doing this with increased my annoyance.

    Something about noise holds you back a little bit when riding, because your brain says this isn't a good sound something bad may happen. Now that it is quiet you push the bike harder!

    I also believe I figured out my cockpit. I am a tad shorter than 5' 9" so I fall right on the infamous tweener sizing. A large HD4 is too long for my preferences and actually feel the medium HD4 is the right size for me. I purchased a 55mm stem. I was running a 50mm stem, but just couldn't get it to felt quite right. I needed some more room. I tried a 40mm stem, it was too short and just a different riding style - very easy to get the front end up.

    I feel way more balanced with the bike with the 55mm stem. I feel like the zone to weight the front and rear became larger, whereas with the 50mm stem it was quite narrow so you are constantly focusing on your position for proper weighting. The steering is a little slower, but cornering is faster as I can now push harder into the bike with corners. The confidence on the downs and through the rock gardens is awesome. It is allowing me to carry much more speed than I normally do with more control and ease. I now need to build my muscle memory and I will be good to go!!!

  116. #116
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    Awesome. Glad youve figured it out. Im surprised 5mm makes that much of a difference. The x2 is really nice, love all the settings.

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    Last edited by jacksonlui; 02-27-2019 at 02:06 PM.

  117. #117
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    Im surprised 5mm makes that much of a difference.
    I think thinner shorts/chamois along with thinner gloves might lengthen your reach by 5mm! You've got to be on top of your kit to keep your reach that precise.

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    I think thinner shorts/chamois along with thinner gloves might lengthen your reach by 5mm! You've got to be on top of your kit to keep your reach that precise.
    I strongly disagree with your assumption. Yes, I agree 5mm is small. However, it makes a difference in weight distribution of your bike and it affects your handling. Have you tried a 40mm and 50mm stem on the same bike or 50mm to 60mm stem on the same - you notice a significant difference handling - the 5mm is 50% of that.

    You can dramatically change the feel of the bike by just rolling the bars forward or rearward. Change the number of spacers...

    As I said before, as bikes get longer finding the sweet spot takes a little more time.

    Before you knock it, give it a try you be surprised by it. I remain surprised that it has the affect it does. If you would have told me a year or two ago, a 5mm change in stem would have this effect, I would have thought no way. I have helped my friends dial their bikes in and they leave my house saying the same thing, didn't think these small changes would modify the bike behavior that much.

    This is the only reason why I posted it, is to inform people that a 5mm change in stem has an influence and when you dial the bike in, it allows you to ride so much better in control, popping left and right, etc - it is a lot of fun. It opens the bikes potential. Again I would never thought this small difference would change the bike's behavior that much.

  119. #119
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    Do you like the bars rolled forward? I've tried both and cant seem to decide between forward and neutral

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    I was also interested in the orbea rallon. Not a lot of chatter about it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aztomex View Post
    Not sure of the weight, it is lighter than the sb6 I came from though with the same build. The top of the frame definitely has an orange tint to it, frame really pops in the sun I love it.
    How do you think it compares to the SB6?

  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    I was also interested in the orbea rallon. Not a lot of chatter about it.

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    These are the two bikes I'm considering in replacing my Intense T275. I demo'd both. They're both very good. I wood give the edge to the Rallon in high speed chunk/chunder thanks to the 29 wheels. I would give the edge to the HD4 for a little easier maneuverability/playfulness. It's really horses for courses.

    On the negative side for the Rallon where:

    1) about a 2lb weight disadvantage (apples to apples spec)

    2) a lot of chainslap noise (the chainstay sits very close to the chainring).

    3) about a $1,000 price premium.

    The slack HA on the HD4 was a bit floppy in steep climbing but the flip side is it was super stable at speed.

    I'm still undecided and want to demo the new Pivot Mach 6 before deciding what's best for me.

  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Do you like the bars rolled forward? I've tried both and cant seem to decide between forward and neutral

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    It depends on the sweep/rise bars and overall bike geometry, etc. I like my bars such that when I am riding my arms/hands feel comfortable (eg natural) for the downhills/corners when out of the saddle. I believe you can compensate more when in the saddle pedaling. Out of the saddle requires more attention, at least for me.

    For example, if the bars are rolled back too much, you may drop elbows because of the fit of the bars. For my Calling, the bars are fairly neutral. For the HD4, they rolled back a little bit.

    Basically I want to be balanced on the bike - not over the front or hanging off the rear. I want to be able push through bike corners.

    Bars with more sweep/rise require subtle changes in roll to have an effect, bars with less sweep and rise don't. Look Anvl bars, they are starting to recognize the long geometry reducing sweep/rise (i think 7 and 5 degrees). The Ibis bars have a 9 degree sweep/5 deg rise

  124. #124
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    Thx. I've been using easton haven 35 bars for a long time.

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  125. #125
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    Ive lined the upsweep of my bars with the rake of the suspension, so when you look from the top, theyíre slightly rolled back. If you followed up the suspension with a straight edge, the bars would look in line with that. I guess that is neutral setup?


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  126. #126
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    There's a new HD4 review at mtb-mag.
    The article didnt really have any substance. It spent most of the time describing what came with the bike rather than the dynamics on the trail. Briefly mentioned climbing was neutral.

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  127. #127
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    Pretty good video test ride here on Youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtl_ea3gcIQ

  128. #128
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    ^ I already wanted an hd3 or hd4, but that video is what made me decide to go through with an hd4.


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  129. #129
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    I went for a ride this morning with my bars neutral ( from back). Neutral to me is relative to the horizontal ground rather than the head angle. If i lined up to center of stem then it'll be rotated backwards.

    Seems more lively, twitchy, responsive steering. Its not better or worse but it feels pretty good. Im gonna try it for a while. Neutral or forward will angle my elbows out more.
    Thx for the tip. Love trying new things.

    Ordered the Arundel cage and an evoc race hip pack. Hopefully it'll work out for me.

    Currently on 2.6 dhf/rekon at 18/19 psi. I feel i can drop another 1-2psi and be ok.

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  130. #130
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    http://reviews.mtbr.com/ibis-mojo-hd4-first-ride-review

    Mtbr updated their review after more time on the bike.

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  131. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    http://reviews.mtbr.com/ibis-mojo-hd4-first-ride-review

    Mtbr updated their review after more time on the bike.

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    Seems like they still are pretty positive about it, though I donít really know if they had any cons on the original review.


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  132. #132
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    I sure wish they had more black ones like the MTBR review guys got. I don't think the wife would notice the swap!

    I'm kind surprised we haven't seen more reviews around, but I suspect Ibis sent one to the Bible of Bike test, and that one is the main one they care about.

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock View Post
    I sure wish they had more black ones like the MTBR review guys got. I don't think the wife would notice the swap!

    I'm kind surprised we haven't seen more reviews around, but I suspect Ibis sent one to the Bible of Bike test, and that one is the main one they care about.
    When do they update that?


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  134. #134
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    The Bible testing is underway right now I think. I hope so, because I'm sure winter is coming fast in Michigan.

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    Never really thought much about bible tests. Always seemed biased

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    the bible of bike test is literally a joke.

  137. #137
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    I enjoy reading it, but it's not as good as in years past. I miss some of the old crew. I don't think a lot of their test locations recently are good for a lot of the bikes they are testing.

  138. #138
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    Agreed testing enduro bikes on lower speed twisty tracks is not a good idea. I will make all the trail bikes shine though.

  139. #139
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    It is confirmed. For those who read such things, they will be testing the Ripley (3) and the HD4. Hopefully they have the terrain for the HD4.

  140. #140
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    I'm 5'9.5" with longer arms. Currently riding a Yeti SB66 Medium (17.5). What size medium or large? Btw leaning towards a Jensen NX bike.

  141. #141
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    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Coopie View Post
    I'm 5'9.5" with longer arms. Currently riding a Yeti SB66 Medium (17.5). What size medium or large? Btw leaning towards a Jensen NX bike.
    Ibisís frame chart shows 5í9Ē at the top of the range for medium. To be comfortable and keep a short stem (inevitably youíd most likely want a longer stem on the medium), you should consider large. Largeís c-t is 17.5Ē, and the height range is 5í9Ē to 6í2Ē. This should work well with your long arms.


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  142. #142
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    Thanks. A very nerve racking decision. Always been on Medium bikes.

  143. #143
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    i'm 5'9" and i'm on a large

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    Its better to go demo one if possible. Too expensive not to.

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  145. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coopie View Post
    I'm 5'9.5" with longer arms. Currently riding a Yeti SB66 Medium (17.5). What size medium or large? Btw leaning towards a Jensen NX bike.
    Do you know your cycling wingspan (I've been told it's wrist-bend to wrist-bend by shop)?

    Quote Originally Posted by djevox View Post
    Ibisís frame chart shows 5í9Ē at the top of the range for medium. To be comfortable and keep a short stem (inevitably youíd most likely want a longer stem on the medium), you should consider large. Largeís c-t is 17.5Ē, and the height range is 5í9Ē to 6í2Ē. This should work well with your long arms.
    I'm a little taller 5'10" and a bit, but more leg than torso/arms. 33.25" cycling inseam. Height puts me firmly in Large territory, but shop and Ibis are saying I could go either way, with shop recommending a Medium w/60mm stem and 30mm rise bars and 170mm dropper post (can't get needed BB to saddle rail height on a medium with a 150mm dropper according to Ibis charts).

    I'm on a Large V2 original Ripley now that I will be keeping for trail riding. It's set up with Ibis lo-fi carbon bars and a 60mm stem.

    This would be my second Ibis ordered without a test ride - was able to test ride a V1 Ripley at Dirt Fest before ordering my V2 (glad I waited for the V2 upgrades). My first Mojo V1 was ordered based on talking with Ibis and shop and worked out great.

    Brother-in-law trying to convince me to order a Patrol Carbon 3 size medium based on what he's riding. Again, a demo ride is going to be just about impossible.

    Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. I'm thinking that a large with short stem will be what I end up ordering, as I'm getting the HD4 as an addition to the Ripley, not a replacement...

  146. #146
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    I think at that point itís personal preference. I personally despise long stems, but I know other people who like them. My riding style is very aggressive with jumping at every chance, and for that, the short stem just plain feels right.


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  147. #147
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    I agree on the stem part, but wonder what you consider long. Are we at the point where a 60mm stem is considered long? I'm thinking I'll go with a 35mm or so on the large. Going to talk with the shop some more, and maybe call Ibis one more time.

    Hope to have some pics to post up with build soon...

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrc2006 View Post
    I agree on the stem part, but wonder what you consider long. Are we at the point where a 60mm stem is considered long? I'm thinking I'll go with a 35mm or so on the large. Going to talk with the shop some more, and maybe call Ibis one more time.

    Hope to have some pics to post up with build soon...
    I run a 35 stem on my large

  149. #149
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    Went from a 40 to a 50 on my medium. Not too much difference. Gonna give it some time to see.

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  150. #150
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    anybody in the market for a large frame
    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2272506/

  151. #151
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    That was quick

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  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    That was quick

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    I usually only keep bikes for 5-6 months and then try something different. Terrible addiction I know

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrc2006 View Post
    I agree on the stem part, but wonder what you consider long. Are we at the point where a 60mm stem is considered long? I'm thinking I'll go with a 35mm or so on the large. Going to talk with the shop some more, and maybe call Ibis one more time.

    Hope to have some pics to post up with build soon...
    I like as short as possible, and do consider 60 long for what I like. Is 60 considered long in the biking community? Iím guessing there will be a thousand different opinions on the subject, but itís probably medium. I remember my carbon cannondale came with a 120mm stem. I went to a 60, then a 30mm stem. Each jump was a night and day difference compared to the last. Iím running a 35 right now, and will probably try a renthal 31 when I change bars. I have a feeling 35 to 31 will cross the point of diminishing returns.




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  154. #154
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    Thanks for the input.
    The effective top tube difference between M and L is 24mm, and the reach difference is 20mm.
    The L HD4 is 27mm more reach than my Ripley L, and 9mm longer effective top tube (M is 7mm more reach & 15mm shorter effective top tube).

  155. #155
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    I wish this became mainstream, Iíd be all about it:



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  156. #156
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    Size L in red ordered. Went w/ 40mm stem.
    NX kit with upgrade to RC2 and X2. Working on a list of upgrades as budget allows. Already have a set of new XTs to use instead of the Levels.

  157. #157
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    Great choice!
    Iím on a large red with 40mm stem and Iím just under 5í10Ē.
    Enjoy! Itís an awesome bike!

  158. #158
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    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by wrc2006 View Post
    Size L in red ordered. Went w/ 40mm stem.
    NX kit with upgrade to RC2 and X2. Working on a list of upgrades as budget allows. Already have a set of new XTs to use instead of the Levels.
    Nice! The levels arenít terrible. I swapped rotors to icetech 203/180, and really improved brake feel- so much so that Iím leaving the level brakes on there until they take a crap. Iím definitely not a fan of the nx rear derailleur, as I have to do an adjustment every time I ride. Also, good choice on the x2 over the dpx2. That dpx2 has all but driven me insane trying to fine tune it. I am 200lbs and ride really hard, though.

    Oh, and be prepared for that lighter red to be bright orange looking.


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    In the process of trying out a few bikes to find the right one here in NC. So far l've take the Mach 5.5 out for a demo, another tomorrow but no dealers local with an HD4 at this time.

    Wasn't there a black HD4 l have seen in some reviews? I don't hate the silver/gray but like a more stealthy looking bike than poppy colors.

    Also are there any riders who have an HD4 or tested one who are a bigger guy like myself? I am guessing the rear shock for my size will have to be the DOX2 or maybe a DHX2; l'm not quite Peter Griffin but 6ft, 260.

  160. #160
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    I currently have 180/160 rotors. Does going 203/180 make that much of a difference? I was thinking of going 180/180 instead.

    Im also on a resin and semi metallic mix. It feels perfect but dont like how one side wears faster than the other and that one piston is pushed out further. Dont really want to go full semi-metallic, might be too grabby. Thinking upping my rear rotor might allow me to go back to resin pads.

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  161. #161
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    New beauty arrived!

    Just finished it, was not able to ride it yet due to fault in rear shock which came out after built

    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-image1.jpg

  162. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by SaintJV View Post
    Just finished it, was not able to ride it yet due to fault in rear shock which came out after built

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    What was the fault in shock?


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  163. #163
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    I dont know yet, tomorrow I will go to the dealer and we will disassembly it. But for now when the shock is moving, strange noise is going out of it. Like a click noise.

  164. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyRdWarrior View Post
    In the process of trying out a few bikes to find the right one here in NC. So far l've take the Mach 5.5 out for a demo, another tomorrow but no dealers local with an HD4 at this time.
    Iím not sure where you are in NC, but Ibis has a demo scheduled for 11-11-17 in Knoxville. It might be worth a drive for you.

  165. #165
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    Howís the MRP cartridge feel in the 36?

  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    I currently have 180/160 rotors. Does going 203/180 make that much of a difference? I was thinking of going 180/180 instead.

    Im also on a resin and semi metallic mix. It feels perfect but dont like how one side wears faster than the other and that one piston is pushed out further. Dont really want to go full semi-metallic, might be too grabby. Thinking upping my rear rotor might allow me to go back to resin pads.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Personally, I think there's a big difference between a 180 and 203 on the front. 203 allows me to brake later before a turn. The drop in speed between a 180 and 203 is significant in my experience. I've got the 203 front / 180 rear combo on all my bikes, even the smaller trail bike just because it's more effective in dropping speed.

    Don't have first hand experience on running mixed pad sets, but since the bigger rotor provides more leverage, I don't see why you couldn't go to back to full resin setup and still have increased braking performance.

  167. #167
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    GChuckyB, thanks for the heads-up on the demo in TN. I'm trying a shop who sells Pivot and Ibis tomorrow in the mountains for l would much rather take a bike out for a day over just an hour. I may see if l can make that happen and curious to compare to HD4 to the Mach [email protected] and Mach 6 l just took out.

    Color isnt everything but wish there was a carbon or black HD4 available.

    Thanks again!

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyRdWarrior View Post
    Color isnt everything but wish there was a carbon or black HD4 available.
    To each their own. I just ordered my Mojo 3 in red instead of the matte black. For some reason, I just feel the unique shape and lines on Ibis frames pop more with bright colours. I would have taken the Silver/Black HD4, though full silver would be better IMO.

    Also I have this paranoia that if I every crashed and needed help in the middle of the woods, someone would find me easier with bright colors. That's why I'm stockpiling on lime green jerseys and hot pink shorts to match my red Mojo3.

  169. #169
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    I hear ya, some are just a bit too "pretty" for me but I do like some of the brighter colors on some bikes. I really swore I saw an HD4 in some articles that was black. They would have been from this spring/summer, not 12-18 months ago which is why I thought it was an HD4, not the 3. I need to ride and HD4 and maybe a Mojo 3 for I don't believe there's much difference except for the build kits but I'm looking for a DPX2 in the rear and a Fox 36 up front with upgraded brakes so I'm hitting up some of the build your own sites online now.

  170. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyRdWarrior View Post
    I hear ya, some are just a bit too "pretty" for me but I do like some of the brighter colors on some bikes. I really swore I saw an HD4 in some articles that was black. They would have been from this spring/summer, not 12-18 months ago which is why I thought it was an HD4, not the 3. I need to ride and HD4 and maybe a Mojo 3 for I don't believe there's much difference except for the build kits but I'm looking for a DPX2 in the rear and a Fox 36 up front with upgraded brakes so I'm hitting up some of the build your own sites online now.
    I haven't ridden the HD4, but based on the amount of travel and geometry...there is much difference between the Mojo 3 and HD4. If you're comparing to the older HD3, then main difference was the travel.

    If you want the Fox36 and DPX2, then HD4 is the way to go. You can do a custom build with the Mojo3 I'm sure, but you're going to pay a big premium.

  171. #171
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    Ive owned the m4 prior to the h4. M3 is more agile and playful and h4 is more stable at high speeds. M3 os closer to rowdy xc and h4 closer to rowdy downhill. I like the h4 more for my style of trails.

    The black h4 you saw was reviewed ny mike levy i think. That was a prototype or preproduction build. If u want the dpx2 and fox36, that probably puts you closer to the hd4. The only concern i had was its climbing ability. Its unfounded, climbs great. In fact, im currently out riding. Only 1hr of daylight left. Have fun on your build.

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    smoothmoose, I just was building up one online and you are very very right, premium indeed without a specific kit including those I mentioned. I'm thinking a LBS could upgrade me to the DPX2 however I don't think I want to build up one from a frame, way too much $$$. Just hoping to be able to ride a Mojo 3 and HD4 in the coming weeks.

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    jacksonlui, great info! I thought at one time it could have been a limited pre-release build but will definitely check out both models, my size tells me to go with the HD4 but only if they'd just make an HD3.5. Anyways enjoy the ride and the sunset and thanks for the info!

  174. #174
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    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-2017-10-14_15-53-49_hdr.jpg
    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-20171014_155601_001.jpg

  175. #175
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    Anyone running 2.8 front / 2.6 rear?
    Does it feel too slack or imbalanced?

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  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Anyone running 2.8 front / 2.6 rear?
    Does it feel too slack or imbalanced?

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    Different ratio but, I've been riding 2.5wt front / 2.3 rear and it feels killer. Very balanced.

  177. #177
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    I think the 2.8 has a slightly larger diameter than the 2.6, not 100% sure. The 2.5 and 2.3 should have the same diameter.

    I want to go from a 160mm icetech rotor in the back to a 180mm and will require a Shimano Adapter. Does anyone have a part number? Ibis hasn't responded to my email in over a week. I want to go 180 front and 180 back for a little more stopping power.

  178. #178
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    Ive been riding with the shock in open for everything and has been great. However, sometimes the lever gets pushed in a little, keep that in mind next time u ride. I thought I'd use the climb switch more but cant tell that much of a difference in climbs. Bike climbs really well for a super slack enduro bike. Love it!

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  179. #179
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    What size frame is that?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sprocking_Crail View Post
    I'm absolutely loving the bike! Just got back from Oakridge, we climbed 13k ft and descended 17k The HD4 preformed amazingly.

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  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    i think the 2.8 has a slightly larger diameter than the 2.6, not 100% sure. The 2.5 and 2.3 should have the same diameter.

    I want to go from a 160mm icetech rotor in the back to a 180mm and will require a shimano adapter. Does anyone have a part number? Ibis hasn't responded to my email in over a week. I want to go 180 front and 180 back for a little more stopping power.
    esmmaf180pp2

  181. #181
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    @ devincisean I went XL

  182. #182
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    Got my med HD4 built up, I love this bike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-img_3860.jpg  


  183. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottW View Post
    Got my med HD4 built up, I love this bike.
    Nice! How do you like the MRP, air or coil?


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  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by nyrangerfan222 View Post
    Nice! How do you like the MRP, air or coil?


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    I'm really liking the MRP, its the Ribbon air. I'm going to play around with the air pressure more but right now at 60+/65- it is very plush but still supportive. Doesn't blow through it's travel or feel harsh. I've been on a Pike for the last couple years and my HD4 demo ride had a 36 RC2, I think the ribbon feels better than either of them. Pike was plush but lacked some mid stroke support, the Fox 36 overall felt good (and I didn't have a lot of time to tune it) but felt a bit harsher than the Ribbon.

  185. #185
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    Just picked up a size Medium XX1 X2 build to replace my 2017 Santa Cruz Nomad X01, size medium frame, Lyrik fork, Monarch plus shock, DHF 2.5 f, DHR II 2.4 r tires. 29 lbs 4 oz including water bottle cage and pedals.

    I'm 5'8" and weigh 146 lbs ready to ride including helmet, shoes & 21oz water bottle. (138lbs in my birthday suite)

    The HD4 is my everyday trail bike including lift service at ski resorts and jump tracks. I also have a 100mm XC bike for the less rowdy XC trails and longer rides.

    Ibis 742 Carbon wheels DHF 2.6 tires, 18 psi front, 22 psi rear.

    Quick note about this wheelset. Hub engagement is incredible, they're very stiff and you can feel them carving up the trail even with these big 2.6 DHF meats on there.... they're not too harsh at all. Hub engagement is perfect!

    Bars cut down to 760mm, 40mm stem with 20mm spacers below the stem

    Fox float 36 RC2 Fork: 56 psi, LSC & HSC full open, rebound 7 from full fast

    Fox float X2: 155 psi, LSC 16 HSC 19 LSR 14 HSR 13, resulting in 16mm sag. I also have 2 orange volume spacers and a bottom out bumper.

    The HD4 weighs 29 lbs 9 oz with water bottle cage, fender & pedals.

    I should also mention, I swapped out the KS Lev Carbon dropper for a Fox Transfer 150mm dropper.

    I've got just over 100 miles on the HD4 and it's starting to feel really good.

    It took a number of rides messing around with different settings but I'm happy with where I'm currently at. I'm sure there will be many adjustments in my future. My previous bikes didn't have nearly the amount of tunability in the fork or shock. This is all a little new to me...

    The bike, in its current settings, feels really poppy and playful but still very stable at speed. I still need to mess with the fork a little... sometimes at speed coming into corners I feel like the fork is diving (lacking support) a little bit and I'm sure it can be corrected with more time messing with compression and psi... I'm sure I'll get this all sorted out in the next handful of rides.

    I've now had two rides with over 3,000 vertical feet of climbing in about 20 miles. Bike seems to climb really well and stays high in its travel. For a bike that descends as well as this, I'll take it!

    I've ridden the HD4 back to back with a 2017 Pivot Firebird, 2018 Santa Cruz Bronson, 2017 & new 2018 Santa Cruz Nomad and I couldn't be happier with my decision to go with this HD4!

    Other bikes I've ridden in the last 6 weeks but not back to back with the HD4 include, Pivot Mach 6, Pivot Mach 5.5, Rocky Mountain Altitude, Santa Cruz Hightower, Santa Cruz Hightower LT, Rocky Mountain Instinct and Giant Trance.

    Of the bikes I've ridden in the past 2 months the Santa Cruz Hightower LT stood out as one of the very best in terms of do everything bikes but I wanted to stay with a 27.5 wheel size for my long travel bike.

    I was stuck between the pivot Mach 6 and the Ibis HD4 and honestly could have gone either way. They're both really good bikes.

    The Ibis HD4 just felt a little more poppy and I wanted to try this new crop of 2.6 tires. Plus... that Fireball Red and Kashima

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    Last edited by jason04; 11-26-2017 at 01:43 PM.

  186. #186
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    Still sorting out my thoughts on the 2.6 DHF tires... the rear feels slow compared with the 2.4 DHR II on my previous bike.

    I've got a 2.6 Rekon & Forekaster to test out on the rear over the next few rides.

    Including dropping some weight, I think either of these tires will roll a fair bit faster than the DHF out back. I'll keep the DHF as a front tire for now.

    I forgot to mention, the 21oz Camelbak water bottle fits in a Medium frame with X2 shock and Specialized Zee cage without problem. I remember reading somewhere people were unsure on the matter.

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  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottW View Post
    Got my med HD4 built up, I love this bike.
    What size tires are you running and what is the internal diameter of those LB carbon hoops? Bike looks money!

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  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprocking_Crail View Post
    Different ratio but, I've been riding 2.5wt front / 2.3 rear and it feels killer. Very balanced.
    Is this on the Ibis 742 wheels? What wheelset and internal diameter? Thx!

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    @Jason04, Recently l got to demo the Mach 6 and then the 5.5 for a very short time. I'm heading to demo an Ibis and possibly an Intense and Mondraker next weekend near Pisgah. Ibis seems to have the best customization for the price than Pivot so l'm anxious to compare the ride of the HD4/Mojo 3.

    For a bike that's playful with moderate travel here in central NC would you still recommend the Ibis? I'm looking at the HD4 GX build with DPX2 and Fox 36 Factory but the dealer (4hours away) suggested DVO.
    Last edited by RockyRdWarrior; 11-26-2017 at 12:49 PM. Reason: Duplicate

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyRdWarrior View Post
    @Jason04, Recently l got to demo the Mach 6 and then the 5.5 for a very short time. I'm heading to demo an Ibis and possibly an Intense and Mondraker next weekend near Pisgah. Ibis seems to have the best customization for the price than Pivot so l'm anxious to compare the ride of the HD4/Mojo 3.

    For a bike that's playful with moderate travel here in central NC would you still recommend the Ibis? I'm looking at the HD4 GX build with DPX2 and Fox 36 Factory but the dealer (4hours away) suggested DVO.
    I think you'll have a lot of answers after your Ibis demo next weekend! If your priority is a "playful" bike than I'd look to the Mojo3 or Santa Cruz 5010. They're both incredibly playful but on longer and more harsh descents they get worked. Rear shock heats up and begins to feel dead and loose stability at mach chicken speeds.

    If you're interested in a longer travel 27.5 bike the HD4 is as stable and composed as any in the category while still having a poppy and playful feel to it. I put over 40 miles on a Santa Cruz Bronson this week and the HD4 feels as playful or more so than the Bronson. More stable at speed and overall better grip and cornering.

    Each bike has their own personality... you just need to demo and find the one that speaks to you! For me, the Ibis is everything I was looking for in a long travel 27.5 bike! Good luck!

  191. #191
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    I ordered an HD4 frame and will be building it up as soon as it gets here. I'm upgrading from an M3, and am wondering if anyone can confirm if the HD4 chainline is better with a boost or non-boost chainring? My M3 chainline was much more centered running a non-boost ring, even though it was a boost frame.

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by activ3 View Post
    I ordered an HD4 frame and will be building it up as soon as it gets here. I'm upgrading from an M3, and am wondering if anyone can confirm if the HD4 chainline is better with a boost or non-boost chainring? My M3 chainline was much more centered running a non-boost ring, even though it was a boost frame.
    I also came from an m3 and i just reused my non boost oval on the hd4 without issues.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  193. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by activ3 View Post
    I ordered an HD4 frame and will be building it up as soon as it gets here. I'm upgrading from an M3, and am wondering if anyone can confirm if the HD4 chainline is better with a boost or non-boost chainring? My M3 chainline was much more centered running a non-boost ring, even though it was a boost frame.
    I carried over my 28T, non-boost round ring from a T275 onto this HD4. Works great but I would guess anything bigger than a 30T would not clear the CS.

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    Thanks for the info!

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    Don't think hd4 is limited to a 30t, should be able to go bigger. The pros dont run 30t, they push bigger gears.

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    I think he means it may need a boost offset chainring to run larger than a 30t. I have a 32t non-boost oval here that came off of my M3 that I'm hoping to run.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Don't think hd4 is limited to a 30t, should be able to go bigger. The pros dont run 30t, they push bigger gears.

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    As stated in the post that's for a non boost chainring. A boost chainring will accomodate much larger thanks to sitting further away from the chainstay.

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    Gotcha!

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  199. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by jason04 View Post
    What size tires are you running and what is the internal diameter of those LB carbon hoops? Bike looks money!

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    Tires are Maxxis Minion DHF/DHRII 2.5 and 2.4 The Light Bike rims are 31mm internal width.

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    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-tobp2gx.jpg
    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-wvultfe.jpg
    Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread-yh5bjky.jpg

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