Internal cable route questions (drivetrain replacement) - Ripmo-
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  1. #1
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    Join Date
    Apr 2008

    Internal cable route questions (drivetrain replacement) - Ripmo

    I am going to upgrade the entire drivetrain and brakes on my Ripmo. Currently its a SRAM NX drivetrain. I have already purchased a full 12sp XT 8100 drivetrain and am ready to upgrade.

    I have never really dealt with internally routed cables, so I am kinda lost.

    Whats the best way to route the new rear derailleur cable? Just push it through the current housing thats installed in the bike? Or is there a compatibility issue between SRAM and Shimano? Is the rear derailleur internal route fully housed from the shifter all the way to the chainstay?

    As for the rear brake, I am planning on removing the hose from the current brake caliper, taping the new brake line to the old one, and pulling it through the frame. Would that work? Kinda like an electrician uses a fish tape to pull wire. Or am I way off?? Does the crankset need to come off to run any of these lines?

    I appreciate any and all help with this. Waiting on the brakes to arrive then I am going to do the work.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    I would replace derailleur housing not because of compatibility ( they are totally compatible ) but just because it will always improve your shifting to have clean new housing!

    If I'm reading the docs right, all the cables have FULL carbon fiber tubes in the frame, so you don't have to worry about fishing ... just push new cables through.

    See setup book:

    For cable routing, the Ripmo / Ripley features carbon fiber tubes molded inside the frame.
    Just push the housing through and it pops out the other end. Simple! And quiet too.

    Regarding the brake cables - you don't need to do what you said, but just for knowledge: you should be careful that the fluid doesn't mix because SRAM uses DOT and Shimano uses mineral oil. Word on the street is that if you contaminate the world will end. ( But seriously, probably want to try to make sure that doesn't happen )

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DrewBird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    A few quick pointers:

    1) I would almost certainly change the cable housing, not because of compatibility but because it'll get gunky and shifting will degrade over time.

    2) There are full carbon tubes in the Ripmo, makes it easy. Trickiest part in my experience is the curve in the chain stay near the cranks. I find it easiest to push housing through from the back of the bike. Push it through the chainstay, pull out 3-4' of housing at the crank, then insert that into the downtube. Trying to do it continuously (i.e. threading housing from chain stay directly into downtube and then pushing it through inch-by-inch) is a pain. Removing the crankset is not absolutely required but will make the whole process much much easier.

    3) If you ride in mud or dust, there will probably be a lot of grit in the inner carbon tubes, particularly that curve in the chain stay as it is lower than either end of the carbon tunnel; gunk pools there. I gave mine a flush with water and a blast of compressed air once the housing was removed. Getting rid of the grit makes the fresh housing go through much easier.

    4) Brakes: You should remove the hose from the lever, not the caliper. Once removed, you'll need to cut the end off the hose to get rid of the olive and barb fitting and allow you to thread hose through the frame (you'll want to cut it anyway to shorten it so you don't have a huge loop of hose at the bars). New Shimano brakes come with the barb and olive you need to shorten the hose at the lever. So procedure is: Remove hose from lever by unscrewing the bolt fitting surrounding the hose where it leaves the lever, cut hose ~1/2" upstream, thread hose through frame beginning at the rear of the bike, figure out how long you want your hose, cut hose to that length, slip bolt over cut hose, then olive, then install barb in the end of the hose, thread bolt back into lever and tighten. Plenty of instructional videos on this.

    5) You'll need to bleed the brakes once installed, which is an annoying fact of life with internal hose routing. I'd take this opportunity to buy a bleed kit and some Shimano mineral oil, and learn the procedure. Definitely something any avid biker should know how to do!

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Thank you both a ton!! So much help for sure! Exactly what I was looking for. Cheers guys. Ill let you know how it goes. Just waiting for my brakes to arrive, then the fun begins!

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