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  1. #1
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    Ibis Mojo HD Sizing

    Hi

    I am thinking of getting the Ibis Mojo HD with a 180mm Fox Float RC2
    I am 5'8.5" tall, with a stand over of 30.5".

    Should I get a size M or L?

  2. #2
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    Medium, especially if running the 180 mm fork.

  3. #3
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    should i get a L if i am running a 160mm fork?

  4. #4
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    Large if you like short stems such as a 50 or 60mm, and also if you like more stability on fast loose DH rather than a little more nimbleness through trees and tight turns. Remember the Mojo is sized smaller than comparable bikes like some Treks and Specialized.

    If you like 80-100mm stems and like the feeling of the small frame go with the medium.

    I'd think most people would tell you medium, but I'm a fan of bigger frames, especially if you understand the benefits. Some people seem to enjoy the handicap of having what they believe to be a more maneuverable bike.

    Saying that with the 180mm fork, the standover clearance will be less and if its less of a climber you might still be able to throw the short stem on that medium and blast it DH, but if I had to guess since I don't know you're size, it will likely feel cramped on the climbs but still doable.

    So really, go test ride one

  5. #5
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    Advice fo me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Large if you like short stems such as a 50 or 60mm, and also if you like more stability on fast loose DH rather than a little more nimbleness through trees and tight turns. Remember the Mojo is sized smaller than comparable bikes like some Treks and Specialized.

    If you like 80-100mm stems and like the feeling of the small frame go with the medium.

    I'd think most people would tell you medium, but I'm a fan of bigger frames, especially if you understand the benefits. Some people seem to enjoy the handicap of having what they believe to be a more maneuverable bike.

    Saying that with the 180mm fork, the standover clearance will be less and if its less of a climber you might still be able to throw the short stem on that medium and blast it DH, but if I had to guess since I don't know you're size, it will likely feel cramped on the climbs but still doable.

    So really, go test ride one
    I'm 6.0....what do you think L or XL...i like stem 50, 70 mm.
    Thk

  6. #6
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    Lopes is almost 6' tall about 5'11. He rides Small to Large sizes in the C, and Medium to Large in the HD, depending on the corner speeds, from the pictures I've seen. He rode medium C's most of the time for trail rides until this year but posted a few months ago on his site that he is using the Large size more now.

    Lopes really can handle a bike, if you haven't noticed. But for the rest of us hacks a larger size is more stable and forgiving and easier to ride.

    I'd say unless you really know you want a shorter wheelbase, then go for the larger size Ibis recommends if you are between their recommended sizes. Ibis recommendation is are based on at least 100 years combined pro experience in the partners alone, plus Lopes and other expert opinions.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydesg
    Hi

    I am thinking of getting the Ibis Mojo HD with a 180mm Fox Float RC2
    I am 5'8.5" tall, with a stand over of 30.5".

    Should I get a size M or L?
    I am 5'10" and just demo'd a medium with 160mm fork, 70mm stem...very comfortable, and I felt I could have gone to a 50mm stem.

    Even with a 180mm fork I'd go with a medium.

    What make/size is your current bike?
    Taking it easy for all you sinners.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by vittorio64
    I'm 6.0....what do you think L or XL...i like stem 50, 70 mm.
    Thk
    Large with a 70mm or a xl with a 60mm, tough call.

  9. #9
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    currently have a giant trance x1 with a 80mm stem
    riding a small, feels abit tight.

    the front wheel touches my feet sometimes.

  10. #10
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    I'm a tad over 6' and went with a large with a 160 fork. Using a 70mm stem. So far so good.

  11. #11
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    Just FYI, Im 510" and own a Large. I tried a M and it was too small in my opinion. With the large and a 90mm stem (which I think is bigger than what most of mojo owners in here have) I feel very comfortable.

    I will probably try a 70mm stem in the future, just to give it a try.

    Regards

  12. #12
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    would it steer nicely if i were to get a large with a 50mm stem and 180mm fork?

  13. #13
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    I'm 5'10", I ride a large enduro with a 50mm stem and I really wish I had a shorter frame. My HD is for sure going to be a Medium with a 70mm 0 rise stem and a Lyrik DH coil. Forget all that fox nonsense! The new DH damping system on the Lyrik will blow even a PUSHd van out of the water.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diggidy
    I'm 5'10", I ride a large enduro with a 50mm stem and I really wish I had a shorter frame. My HD is for sure going to be a Medium with a 70mm 0 rise stem and a Lyrik DH coil. Forget all that fox nonsense! The new DH damping system on the Lyrik will blow even a PUSHd van out of the water.
    Specialized Enduro sizes are probably one of the largest around! Their medium Enduro is for riders between 5'7 - 6'0. You definitely is a medium enduro, not large enduro. I'm 5'7 and i ride a medium enduro and i have to shrink the cockpit by switching to a shorter stem and get rid of the layback seat post. I wish I had gotten a small enduro.

    I know a guy riding Mojo large and he's 5'10 and he's perfectly comfy with that both up and down the mountain. Also know another guy who's 5'7 and he's very comfortable with a medium Mojo. At 5'10, you're borderline medium and large. Mojo sizing is definitely smaller than Enduro sizing. I'd do more research.

  15. #15
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    What size HD 140 should i get for AM riding - M or L?
    max 70mm stem. 71cm(28") handelbar, 150mm fork
    I never ride saddle higher than handlebar.
    I like manual rolls and bunnyhops
    I want a big 4x bike with ability to ride local mtb marathon for fun


    competitivecyclist FIT CALCULATOR says "M" but most of you recommend "L"

    here is my parameters:
    -------------------------------------------
    Inseam: 81
    Trunk: 64
    Forearm: 33
    Arm: 62
    Thigh: 62
    Lower Leg: 58
    Sternal Notch: 148
    Total Body Height: 182 (5 feet and 11.65 inches)


    XC
    -------------------------------------------
    Standover Height Range: 30.3 - 31.0 inches
    Virtual Top Tube: 23.2 - 23.6 inches
    Stem Length: 9.2 - 10.8 cm
    BB-Saddle Position: 72.2 - 73.8cm
    Saddle-Handlebar: 52.1 - 53.7 cm


    All Mountain Fit
    -------------------------------------------
    Standover Height Range: 30.3 - 31.0 inches
    Virtual Top Tube: 22.7 - 23.1 inches
    Stem Length: 6.7 - 9.1 cm
    BB-Saddle Position: 67.7 - 73.8 cm
    Saddle-Handlebar: 50.2 - 52.0 cm


    Gravity Fit
    -------------------------------------------
    Standover Height Range: 30.3 - 31.0 inches
    Virtual Top Tube: 22.5 - 22.9 inches
    Stem Length: 3.5 - 6.6 cm
    BB-Saddle Position: N/A
    Saddle-Handlebar: N/A
    Last edited by dreicha; 08-31-2010 at 06:21 AM.

  16. #16
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    For 4X racing? then probably M; for enduro then L. But it doesn't seem like a good 4x racer from what I see those guys race on, unless custom lowered and head angle much steeper. The Tranny would be best for 4X, lighter, stiff, and quick steering.

    I just did a 20 mile demo on the HD. I'm 6'1 owning a large C 4 years set up with short stem wide bar AM fit, with no desire for a larger size for mostly tight handling difficult trail use. And the HD large fit the same depending on seat position, but the HD has a higher CG and pedal clearance, and a longer turning radius with the slacker fork angle. It is not quite as nimble as the standard Mojo C, but much more solid in feel and feedback, even more confidence inspiring over sketchy trail and higher speed and landing jumps with nearly the same great balance overall as the C and SL.

  17. #17
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    It would be nice if all mfg. went with reach (bb to ht) measurements instead of tt measurements since the seat tube angle will have an effect on the tt measurement. In fact, I wouldn't be suprised if the reach on the mojo and mojo hd are the same and its just the slacker seat tube angle on the hd that makes the tt longer. To me, this is a better way to judge how a bike will fit because in reality I will have my seat in the same position relative to the bb across all bikes that I intend to pedal up.

    Maybe time for an Ibis reach and stack measurement thread?

  18. #18
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    Lopes is not that tall

    I have friend who lives in Laguna Beach and sees him regularly in town. He is about my height. Wikipedia puts him at 5' 9", which is pretty close to my height.

    I have a medium Mojo and a medium Mojo HD. The HD has a slightly longer top tube, or so it feels to me.

    The HD feels like a bigger, longer more stable bike -- even in the same size.

    BTW, I have Fox 36 Talas 160 + 70 mm stem on the HD, and a Fox 32 Van 140 (converted to 15qr) + 80 mm stem on the Mojo.

    I would love the Fox 36 Talas 180 with Kashima..... but there is no $$$ left.

    Mike

    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    Lopes is almost 6' tall about 5'11. He rides Small to Large sizes in the C, and Medium to Large in the HD, depending on the corner speeds, from the pictures I've seen. He rode medium C's most of the time for trail rides until this year but posted a few months ago on his site that he is using the Large size more now.

    Lopes really can handle a bike, if you haven't noticed. But for the rest of us hacks a larger size is more stable and forgiving and easier to ride.

    I'd say unless you really know you want a shorter wheelbase, then go for the larger size Ibis recommends if you are between their recommended sizes. Ibis recommendation is are based on at least 100 years combined pro experience in the partners alone, plus Lopes and other expert opinions.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squib38 View Post
    It would be nice if all mfg. went with reach (bb to ht) measurements instead of tt measurements since the seat tube angle will have an effect on the tt measurement. In fact, I wouldn't be suprised if the reach on the mojo and mojo hd are the same and its just the slacker seat tube angle on the hd that makes the tt longer. To me, this is a better way to judge how a bike will fit because in reality I will have my seat in the same position relative to the bb across all bikes that I intend to pedal up.

    Maybe time for an Ibis reach and stack measurement thread?
    I hope all bike manufacturers jump on board with this. Makes things much simpler.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squib38 View Post
    It would be nice if all mfg. went with reach (bb to ht) measurements instead of tt measurements since the seat tube angle will have an effect on the tt measurement. In fact, I wouldn't be suprised if the reach on the mojo and mojo hd are the same and its just the slacker seat tube angle on the hd that makes the tt longer. To me, this is a better way to judge how a bike will fit because in reality I will have my seat in the same position relative to the bb across all bikes that I intend to pedal up.

    Maybe time for an Ibis reach and stack measurement thread?
    I actually think almost all measurements are very close to the same on all Mojo's/HD's/SL's/SLR's. The longer headtube, 1 deg difference in HA, and 1/4" of chainstay to allow for 160 travel are the only real changes from the trail bike frames(original Mojo, SL, SLR) versus the HD & HD140. At least that's what I see on a quick overlay of the frames. If you think about it, as the fork gets longer the TT also gets slightly longer because the bike rotates back. Simple geometry.

  21. #21
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    One size larger is better. Then you can run a short steam.


    Thanks Michael

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