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  1. #1
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    Headset problems on Mojo - anyone else?

    I've had my Mojo SL for about a year now and LOVE the bike - but have had problems with the headset since day one. At the beginning it was a minor annoyance - but the creaking got so loud and consistent that I finally took it in a while ago and upgraded to a Cane Creek 110.

    The first ride, the 110 was amazing - literally a night and day difference - but probably because there were some real problems with the part it replaced. Day 2, everything felt good but I noticed some play after a long run through a rock garden. Hopped off the bike and noticed it was VERY loose - the headset was visibly sliding around and the fork was rocking internally. I loosened the bolts on the stem and started tightening the head bolt. I was using a small trail tool so didn't over-tighten - but was surprised to find when I thought I had everything fixed that the handlebars wouldn't turn - tightening the head bolt literally locked the handlebars down (they would move - but only with significant effort). I loosened the head bolt again, right to the point where it wasn't rattling too bad and limped out of the trail.

    Called the shop that installed it and they had no idea - told me to bring it back in but I can't get in until this weekend and wanted to ride. Anyone else ever had the same problems or have any easy suggestions for a fix? Other than the headset, the Mojo is incredible - after hundreds of miles on this thing I still have to stop sometimes and wonder how it does what it does.

    Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
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    Have you carefully followed the Cane Creek IS instructions on measuring & properly setting the gaps using the shims?

    http://www.canecreek.com/manuals/Hea...structions.pdf

  3. #3
    MountainGoat aka OldGoat
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    I had this problem also. the shims that came with the 110 were not enough. so I used another shim from my old CC and now everything is great. Just remember to install the shims under the split ring.
    Vote with your feet.
    No bike is perfect!

  4. #4
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    Great! Thanks for the quick replies - much appreciated. I called the shop with your advice and they said to bring it in and they'd fix it - said there wasn't anything that I could do on my own. Hopefully they fix the issue - it's been a nagging annoyance since I got the bike. I'll post their findings back here - but will also share the advice above.

  5. #5
    No dabs.
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    Just guessing, but from the sound of it the problem is not with your bike or either of your headsets, but with the hacks at your bike shop.

  6. #6
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    Well - they're a pretty reputable shop and an Ibis and SC authorized dealer - but who knows. They didn't have anything to do with the first one but yeah - I was a little pissed when I had the same problem (although worse than ever before) on my 2nd ride. To their defense, the tech I spoke with today sounded pretty pissed off as well and said someone f'd up the install. This was after I told him they installed it.

  7. #7
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    The same thing happened to me, except it wasn't the headset.Ibis had a few SL's where their wasn't enough epoxy used to bond the carbon headset bearing inserts to the frame.Mine happened very slowly over a few rides.If this is the case Ibis will take care of you very quickly as always.One reason I own an Ibis is because they have the best CS.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71
    The same thing happened to me, except it wasn't the headset.Ibis had a few SL's where their wasn't enough epoxy used to bond the carbon headset bearing inserts to the frame.Mine happened very slowly over a few rides.If this is the case Ibis will take care of you very quickly as always.One reason I own an Ibis is because they have the best CS.
    Interesting - thanks. Is this something a tech should be able to clearly see when they try to fix it (was planning on taking it in tonight) or should I contact Ibis right away? Really appreciate all the help guys.

  9. #9
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    Give the tech a heads up, as the bearings need to be out of the frame to check the carbon inserts.

  10. #10
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    I had a similar experience on mine recently with the CC 110. Went through a rocky section of trail and everything became very loose. Tightened it down and went straight to the shop, they told me there weren't any issues.

    The one thing that is different is the bottom of the headset now sits directly on the headtube. when I first got the bike there was a small gap b/w the two.

    I'm thinking something is off as I'm having similar issues again. I'm not an expert on installation of headsets so any insight is appreciated. Should there be a gap b/w the headset and headtube?

  11. #11
    Monkey Wrench
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    I've seen this on quite a few Ibis' and other carbon IS-type headset. Most drop-in headsets tend to settle into the frame, so when installing it can be good to overtighten to help seat the bearings and then back off to the correct preload. This ensures that it is fully seated into the frame. There is a risk that you can indent the bearings into their races, especially on cheaper headsets, so do this with care, and please don't blame me if you f it up.
    The other key here is that you use enough spacers with the 110 to keep the top bearing cap from contacting the frame...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninety9TJ
    I've had my Mojo SL for about a year now and LOVE the bike - but have had problems with the headset since day one. At the beginning it was a minor annoyance - but the creaking got so loud and consistent that I finally took it in a while ago and upgraded to a Cane Creek 110.

    The first ride, the 110 was amazing - literally a night and day difference - but probably because there were some real problems with the part it replaced. Day 2, everything felt good but I noticed some play after a long run through a rock garden. Hopped off the bike and noticed it was VERY loose - the headset was visibly sliding around and the fork was rocking internally. I loosened the bolts on the stem and started tightening the head bolt. I was using a small trail tool so didn't over-tighten - but was surprised to find when I thought I had everything fixed that the handlebars wouldn't turn - tightening the head bolt literally locked the handlebars down (they would move - but only with significant effort). I loosened the head bolt again, right to the point where it wasn't rattling too bad and limped out of the trail.

    Called the shop that installed it and they had no idea - told me to bring it back in but I can't get in until this weekend and wanted to ride. Anyone else ever had the same problems or have any easy suggestions for a fix? Other than the headset, the Mojo is incredible - after hundreds of miles on this thing I still have to stop sometimes and wonder how it does what it does.

    Thanks for any help!
    So what ever became of this?

  13. #13
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    Mine is not creaking but I get water inside the head tube.

    Installing a new fork in my Mojo SL I've realized that my head tube seats (for the headset bearings) doesn't have the finish quality I expected. The surface is not flat and there is some material missing.

    Headset problems on Mojo - anyone else?-my-ibis-mojo-sl-head-tube.jpg

    I'm concerned because Cane Creek (I have an IS-110) is very precise with the importance of a good fit between the seats of the head tube and the bearings. In the IS-110 mounting instructions they insist in the need of using a head tube reaming and facing tool to prepare the top and bottom of the frame's head tube.

    What do you think? Have you seen something similar in your Mojo SL? Any suggestion?

  14. #14
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marmoto

    I'm concerned because Cane Creek (I have an IS-110) is very precise with the importance of a good fit between the seats of the head tube and the bearings. In the IS-110 mounting instructions they insist in the need of using a head tube reaming and facing tool to prepare the top and bottom of the frame's head tube.

    What do you think? Have you seen something similar in your Mojo SL? Any suggestion?
    I'll take a stab, I'd venture to guess that info is specific to traditional head tubes and headsets. So that info is not relevant to the IS version as found on an SL.
    NOAH SEARS
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    I'll take a stab, I'd venture to guess that info is specific to traditional head tubes and headsets. So that info is not relevant to the IS version as found on an SL.
    I am with you on this.
    milesW

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles wadsworth
    I am with you on this.
    x2, I don't understand two things about the Ibis forum and people who spend big money on bikes and don't know how to work on them at all:

    1) Why anyone would ever have a problem with a headset, it is one of the easiest to adjust, almost zero-maintenance parts on a bike

    2) Why anyone would ever 'upgrade' a headset or spend big money on one. They are literally the simplest part of a bike, and expensive ones have such a small inconsequential difference in performance over cheaper ones, it is silly to upgrade unless you are a weight weenie or like anodized purple.

    So as far as I understand, all headset problems on mojo come from either the epoxy on the inserts was bad (similar to the seatpost insert problems on the regular mojo) and the cups are moving around which is a warranty issue, or someone installed the IS-110 headset incorrectly, I don't own a 110 but from what I read, there is a specific order for the parts to go on. If you have water in the head tube, it is likely that the seals on the headset are set up wrong. I would hazard to guess that the OP's problem had nothing to do with the headset, but was likely dirt in the cable stops.
    Last edited by Coloradoxj13; 11-25-2010 at 01:51 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coloradoxj13
    x2, I don't understand two things about the Ibis forum and people who spend big money on bikes and don't know how to work on them at all:
    ..........


    Yeah, some of us enjoy spending big money in our bikes and even more in our headsets

    My headset is correctly mounted. I'ts not so difficult.

    Thank you for your help

  18. #18
    Too Much Fun
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    110 is easy to figure out

    Quote Originally Posted by Coloradoxj13
    or someone installed the IS-110 headset incorrectly, I don't own a 110 but from what I read, there is a specific order for the parts to go on.
    it's actually pretty idiot proof IMO.

    The only question is whether to use the spacer(s) that ship with the 110, which in turn is pretty easy to figure out: if you've got NO space between the cup and the frame, you should use a spacer.

    There are two (thicker, thinner) and the thinner one should be enough. I'm not sure if Ibis has official comment one way or the other, but it's the sort of thing that most people with eyes would be able to spot... But if your bike is built up by someone else, you might miss it.
    - -benja- -

  19. #19
    Turn off the TV
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    Some people are not mecanically inclined. Do you do all the work on your car, lawn mower, electronics, apliances, home improvements, etc...? I have friends that never work on their bikes but they ride well.

  20. #20
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    You are right, most of my riding colleagues don't like to be involved in the mechanics of their bikes. This is not my case. On top of my engineering background I really enjoy building and maintaining my bikes since... long time ago (I'm 53yo). So I have (and use ) all the tools I need to do that properly, including 1-20 and 10-80 Nm torque tools. My bike "downtime" is really small

    Benja55,
    Yes, when I installed the IS110 headset, I inserted the spacers needed to have the top cap as close as possible to the top of the top tube without rubbing on it. Thank you for your advise.

  21. #21
    Unpredictable
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    Creaking in the headset seems a little too common with my CC IS2. However, it almost always comes form the star bolt setting and rust buildup from washing the bike upside down. After a muddy last year lots of bits of running gear are suffering from frequent washing etc. Had to do another headset maintenance this weekend. The actual headset bearings however remain in good shape.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coloradoxj13 View Post
    x2, I don't understand two things about the Ibis forum and people who spend big money on bikes and don't know how to work on them at all:

    1) Why anyone would ever have a problem with a headset, it is one of the easiest to adjust, almost zero-maintenance parts on a bike

    2) Why anyone would ever 'upgrade' a headset or spend big money on one. They are literally the simplest part of a bike, and expensive ones have such a small inconsequential difference in performance over cheaper ones, it is silly to upgrade unless you are a weight weenie or like anodized purple.

    So as far as I understand, all headset problems on mojo come from either the epoxy on the inserts was bad (similar to the seatpost insert problems on the regular mojo) and the cups are moving around which is a warranty issue, or someone installed the IS-110 headset incorrectly, I don't own a 110 but from what I read, there is a specific order for the parts to go on. If you have water in the head tube, it is likely that the seals on the headset are set up wrong. I would hazard to guess that the OP's problem had nothing to do with the headset, but was likely dirt in the cable stops.
    Get over yourself.

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