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  1. #1
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    Does anyone regret their Ripmo buy ?

    Anyone wish they went Megatower or Yeti 130/50?

    I see all these amazing reviews and I just wanna check to see if people are satisfied...

    I test rode one yesterday


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  2. #2
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    I donít regret it, but Iím still working on a solution to hand pressure and pain due probably to multiple factors. The steep seat tube angle favors your weight forward on hands compared to older geometry. I have about 500 miles on it and have had it since October.

    If I find a solution, I will be very happy. If not, I will probably sell it and get something else. The bike handles so well, itís hard to think about finding anything else that can compete in that area.


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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I donít regret it, but Iím still working on a solution to hand pressure and pain due probably to multiple factors. The steep seat tube angle favors your weight forward on hands compared to older geometry. I have about 500 miles on it and have had it since October.

    If I find a solution, I will be very happy. If not, I will probably sell it and get something else. The bike handles so well, itís hard to think about finding anything else that can compete in that area.


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    Iím looking at this for all day trail riding 3 - 4 hours punchy climbs - switchbacks - rocks - with not many crazy descents ...
    Is this too much bike ?


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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I donít regret it, but Iím still working on a solution to hand pressure and pain due probably to multiple factors. The steep seat tube angle favors your weight forward on hands compared to older geometry. I have about 500 miles on it and have had it since October.

    If I find a solution, I will be very happy. If not, I will probably sell it and get something else. The bike handles so well, itís hard to think about finding anything else that can compete in that area.


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    I switched my cockpit out (bars, stem and grips) and I'm in heaven. The Ibis bars were a weird bend. Stock grips were hard AF and I added a bit of rise in my stem. All minor tweaks but a massive improvement.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Iím looking at this for all day trail riding 3 - 4 hours punchy climbs - switchbacks - rocks - with not many crazy descents ...
    Is this too much bike ?


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    Certainly doesnít sound like too much bike. Itís a surprisingly agile climbing bike, and downhill bike descending capabilities. Not a combo that many others on the market can claim. The only awkward conditions are flat-ish trails, and only because these are the conditions that really make you notice your weight forward on the bars.

    I have some ESI Extra chunky foam grips and a super short riser stem coming, and already a bunch of other changes such as 12 degree backsweep SQLab bars and cleats moved all the way back on my shoe. I feel like Iím getting closer.


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Anyone wish they went Megatower or Yeti 130/50?

    I see all these amazing reviews and I just wanna check to see if people are satisfied...

    I test rode one yesterday


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    My SB150 demo left a lot to be desired. It liked to plow the snot out of DH, but lacked the "poppy" playfulness of the Ripmo and felt really long and wandering while climbing. Which I know long is a trend, but Ripmo seems like a better "all arounder" - SB150 more enduro racer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Iím looking at this for all day trail riding 3 - 4 hours punchy climbs - switchbacks - rocks - with not many crazy descents ...
    Is this too much bike ?


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    The Ripmo is a better descender than it is a climber.

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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    The Ripmo is a better descender than it is a climber.
    I think itís easier to whip around then the MT tho?


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    Quote Originally Posted by sbd View Post
    I switched my cockpit out (bars, stem and grips) and I'm in heaven. The Ibis bars were a weird bend. Stock grips were hard AF and I added a bit of rise in my stem. All minor tweaks but a massive improvement.

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    What bar and stem did you end up with?

  10. #10
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    Honestly sounds like you would be better off with the new Ripley. It leans more towards the trail side instead of enduro but still has that Ripmo geometry.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TX_CLG View Post
    What bar and stem did you end up with?
    Swage 50mm stem with 5 degree rise, RF NextR bars with 20mm rise, 8 degrees of sweep and 5 degrees of rise and Ergon GE1 grips.

    The combination of bar and stem rise took pressure of my hands and onto my saddle and these grips are simply perfect. Not big and goey. Not hard and thin. Great shape. Perfect durometer.

    This bike was a huge update for me. I was riding a 2008 HT 29er previously. I demod a lot of bikes. Got the Ripley last April and haven't looked back. Riding is so fun again I can't stop.



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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbd View Post
    Swage 50mm stem with 5 degree rise, RF NextR bars with 20mm rise, 8 degrees of sweep and 5 degrees of rise and Ergon GE1 grips.

    The combination of bar and stem rise took pressure of my hands and onto my saddle and these grips are simply perfect. Not big and goey. Not hard and thin. Great shape. Perfect durometer.



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    This gave you more reach ? Wouldnít a 60 mm stem open the cockpit more ?


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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Iím looking at this for all day trail riding 3 - 4 hours punchy climbs - switchbacks - rocks - with not many crazy descents ...
    Is this too much bike ?


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    Having ridden both, the Ripley would be my choice for your described riding. Ripley definitely feels like a min-Ripmo, but lighter feeling. Throw a 140mm fork on the Ripley and it'll handle gnarly descents pretty well.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    This gave you more reach ? Wouldnít a 60 mm stem open the cockpit more ?


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    I didn't want more reach. I wanted more rise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tuskenraider View Post
    Having ridden both, the Ripley would be my choice for your described riding. Ripley definitely feels like a min-Ripmo, but lighter feeling. Throw a 140mm fork on the Ripley and it'll handle gnarly descents pretty well.
    Looking at this now - Ripley - 500 reach XL - great reviews - mtb awesome said itís a better xl than the ripmo tho it needs a better rear shock.
    Now Iím really confused! Lol


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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Looking at this now - Ripley - 500 reach XL - great reviews - mtb awesome said itís a better xl than the ripmo tho it needs a better rear shock.
    Now Iím really confused! Lol


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    Riding a brand new FOX DPS on the Ripley demo yesterday, it felt reeally good. I don't remember it feeling as nice when my V2 was new. I'm sure there's been some updates over the past 3 years. Nonetheless, I had my DPS redone by Avalanche and I don't think it feels better than the Cane Creek DB IL I mostly run now. I would recommend the CC or try the Manitou McCleod, which has piqued my interest. Maybe a DPX2 if they fit.......Either way, might be happy with the DPS until it gets "old".
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  17. #17
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    Nope. It's the best bike I've ridden. I love everything about it and would not swap it for any other bike.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    Certainly doesnít sound like too much bike. Itís a surprisingly agile climbing bike, and downhill bike descending capabilities. Not a combo that many others on the market can claim. The only awkward conditions are flat-ish trails, and only because these are the conditions that really make you notice your weight forward on the bars.

    I have some ESI Extra chunky foam grips and a super short riser stem coming, and already a bunch of other changes such as 12 degree backsweep SQLab bars and cleats moved all the way back on my shoe. I feel like Iím getting closer.


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    I've only had a handful of rides on my Ripmo, but yeah, I feel that too on flat-ish trails. And exacerbated by faster, rougher flatish trails. I found if I move my butt as far back on the seat as possible, it helps alleviate the hand pressure. Therefore I moved my seat back about 5mm on the seat post to see if that helps. My old man knees are pretty sensitive to changes like this, so this is an experiment for sure.

    I ride an XL frame, 50mm stem (no rise), 780mm wide bar, 8* back, 4* up, 30mm rise. And 30mm spacer under stem. I'm 6'3" FYI...

    I have a history of hand/wrist injuries from racing and crashing. I find when I'm in "rehab" stage, the Ergon winged grips like the GA3 really help me to get back riding while getting my strength back. That may help too.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Anyone wish they went Megatower or Yeti 130/50?

    I see all these amazing reviews and I just wanna check to see if people are satisfied...

    I test rode one yesterday


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    Yes, definitely satisfied. Will keep for long time. I miss the dw link suspension of my old Turner 5Spot. And the Ibis quality and attention to detail is all-time!

    Full disclosure: I never tried the SC or Yeti. Didn't need to.
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  20. #20
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    Love my Ripmo, have no regrets at all.
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    Nope. For what it is, at least for what I ride it for, it is the best thing I've ridden. A technical trail ripper for trails with big rocks and ledges that are mostly all up and down. It's not bad on flatter, smoother stuff, either, but I have other bikes for that.
    Yeti SB100
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    I'm curious how many threads the OP is going to create on this topic.

    Dude is all over the place. Go demo some bikes. Pick the one you like the best. Most of them are awesome; you'd have a tough time screwing it up.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  23. #23
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    No regrets -- the Ripmo is an awesome bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    I'm curious how many threads the OP is going to create on this topic.

    Dude is all over the place. Go demo some bikes. Pick the one you like the best. Most of them are awesome; you'd have a tough time screwing it up.
    My posts are fire bro


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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I donít regret it, but Iím still working on a solution to hand pressure and pain due probably to multiple factors. The steep seat tube angle favors your weight forward on hands compared to older geometry. I have about 500 miles on it and have had it since October.

    If I find a solution, I will be very happy. If not, I will probably sell it and get something else. The bike handles so well, itís hard to think about finding anything else that can compete in that area.


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    Just adjust your seat backward, or get a setback seat post (if you can find a dropper with one). The "steep seat angle" moves the seat just 3-5 cm forward depending on the size of the frame ...

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davide View Post
    Just adjust your seat backward, or get a setback seat post (if you can find a dropper with one). The "steep seat angle" moves the seat just 3-5 cm forward depending on the size of the frame ...
    9point8 is the only dropper I have found that offers a set-back. And is what I currently use. Pretty happy with them.

    If anyone else knows of other droppers with a set back option, please let me know.
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  27. #27
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    Nope, love mine. (Anyone looking for a well loved V1 Ripley uber pimp build?) ;-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by SylentK View Post
    9point8 is the only dropper I have found that offers a set-back. And is what I currently use. Pretty happy with them.

    If anyone else knows of other droppers with a set back option, please let me know.
    Someone on another Ripmo thread mentioned 9point8 as a setback dropper post option. I had already swapped the stock Reverb for a Fox Transfer unfortunately, but I did move my seat back about 1/4Ē last night, which is as far back as it will go. I will reinstall the SQLab bars on the new short riser stem with the new foam grips and try it out.

    Ergon GE1 grips are ok, but my hands got noticeably sore (bruised for 3 days) with these grips on Spank Riser bars after a single ride. It has more to do with the bars than grips, as it was the first and only ride after swapping over from the SQLab 12deg backsweep bars.

    So many variables, and so much $$ thrown at this problem, but I love the bike in every other way!


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    Iím coming from an HD3 to the Ripmo, so for me its not just a switch to a new bike but also a switch to a new wheel size.

    While I wouldnít say I regret the Ripmo (I do love it and mine is a no expense spared build), it is not the ďgame changerĒ some others have suggested it would be.

    Iím personally finding the 29Ē tires to be a little wagon wheel like in technical terrain. Iím not confident on this bike like I was on the HD3. Iíve only done three rides and each one is better than the last, so Iím hopeful it clicks.

    Perhaps I just lack talent (I do)?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by SylentK View Post
    9point8 is the only dropper I have found that offers a set-back. And is what I currently use. Pretty happy with them.

    If anyone else knows of other droppers with a set back option, please let me know.
    The Specialized Command post came in setback form a couple years ago. Not sure if the current ones do or not.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackPenquinn View Post
    Iím coming from an HD3 to the Ripmo, so for me its not just a switch to a new bike but also a switch to a new wheel size.

    While I wouldnít say I regret the Ripmo (I do love it and mine is a no expense spared build), it is not the ďgame changerĒ some others have suggested it would be.

    Iím personally finding the 29Ē tires to be a little wagon wheel like in technical terrain. Iím not confident on this bike like I was on the HD3. Iíve only done three rides and each one is better than the last, so Iím hopeful it clicks.

    Perhaps I just lack talent (I do)?
    Give it time. Itíll click, once your brain has a chance to recalibrate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I donít regret it, but Iím still working on a solution to hand pressure and pain due probably to multiple factors. The steep seat tube angle favors your weight forward on hands compared to older geometry.
    I've been on this site for the last year or two and don't recall much about the downside of the currently fashionable steep seat tube angles. The resulting pressure on wrists/hands from a steep STA sounds logical and could be a concern for me too. Stating the obvious, there's always tradeoffs in engineering. It seems many (most?) bike reviewers are currently pushing ever slacker HTA and steeper STA.

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    Quote Originally Posted by overmyhead View Post
    I've been on this site for the last year or two and don't recall much about the downside of the currently fashionable steep seat tube angles. The resulting pressure on wrists/hands from a steep STA sounds logical and could be a concern for me too. Stating the obvious, there's always tradeoffs in engineering. It seems many (most?) bike reviewers are currently pushing ever slacker HTA and steeper STA.
    I am starting to lose hope now, as I donít want to continue throwing money blindly at potential fixes without knowing something is going to help. Iím not sure a setback post will help. The foam grips I ordered a few days ago were of no help.

    My palms are still bruised and fatigued. The rain is probably giving me a good break so they can heal a bit.

    Starting to think about hand and core strengthening to adapt to the bike rather than holding out hope that the bike can be adapted to me.


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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I am starting to lose hope now, as I donít want to continue throwing money blindly at potential fixes without knowing something is going to help. Iím not sure a setback post will help. The foam grips I ordered a few days ago were of no help.

    My palms are still bruised and fatigued. The rain is probably giving me a good break so they can heal a bit.

    Starting to think about hand and core strengthening to adapt to the bike rather than holding out hope that the bike can be adapted to me.


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    Buy 40 mm renthal riser bars. You can also reduce reach by running spacers under the stem and you can increase reach by running no spacers under the stem.
    I think you just have too much weight thrown forward on your hands for the kind of riding you do. Good luck.

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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I am starting to lose hope now, as I donít want to continue throwing money blindly at potential fixes without knowing something is going to help. Iím not sure a setback post will help. The foam grips I ordered a few days ago were of no help.

    My palms are still bruised and fatigued. The rain is probably giving me a good break so they can heal a bit.

    Starting to think about hand and core strengthening to adapt to the bike rather than holding out hope that the bike can be adapted to me.


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    You need to get your bars up. Get some high riser bars. This will increase your reach and move your grips up. Slide your seat back as far as it will go and you should be in the ballpark fit of your old bike.
    If you saddle to bar drop and seat to grip reach is in the range you can tolerate, then something is wrong with your fork.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I am starting to lose hope now, as I donít want to continue throwing money blindly at potential fixes without knowing something is going to help. Iím not sure a setback post will help. The foam grips I ordered a few days ago were of no help.

    My palms are still bruised and fatigued. The rain is probably giving me a good break so they can heal a bit.

    Starting to think about hand and core strengthening to adapt to the bike rather than holding out hope that the bike can be adapted to me.


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    When you sit on the bike - are your chest and head over the bars ?

    Sounds like the bike simply does not fit you ... like youíre being propelled forward and pushed down ... leading to your hands holding you up.

    What size frame ?


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  37. #37
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    Does anyone regret their Ripmo buy ?

    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    When you sit on the bike - are your chest and head over the bars ?

    Sounds like the bike simply does not fit you ... like youíre being propelled forward and pushed down ... leading to your hands holding you up.

    What size frame ?


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    I have these 50mm rise bars:



    And these 45mm rise bars:



    This stem will be here this week to replace the 50mm Ibis stem:



    The DMR Defi stem shaves 1/2Ē off the clamp length, pulls reach from 50 to 35mm and has 5mm rise, which will pull my hands back and should net about 15mm more rise because I can fit more spacers under it with my short cut steerer.

    Even with the riser bars and stock stem, my saddle is 1.5Ē to 2Ē above the highest point of the bars.

    Iím 6í4Ē with 35Ē inseam, so nothing crazy proportionally. Frame is an XL.

    My chest and arms are not over the bars. The bike feels normal as far as fit, but definitely more upright than Iím used to - like a beach cruiser vs my past bikes feeling more set back in the saddle. This is the steeper ST.

    Saddle is all the way back, and nose up, but I still feel weighted hands. Iím still playing with the nose height with my new Ergon saddle (most comfortable saddle Iíve had). I would be having numb nuts with most saddles at this angle, but so far itís ok with the Ergon. I may try it a little steeper.

    I think I need to get my bars higher, but the LBS cut the steerer where it is, and I have the Max spacers under the (Ibis) stem right now, which is 25mm. The new stem will let me get another 10mm of spacers under it.

    Do I go back to my LBS 6 mo the after purchase and ask them to pay for Fox to install a new steerer, and this time donít cut it too short? Itís taken me a long time to figure this out, and still not convinced I have yet. Even so, I donít think I can blame the LBS.

    Not me on the bike, but gives you an idea about setup.




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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I have these 50mm rise bars:



    And these 45mm rise bars:



    This stem will be here this week to replace the 50mm Ibis stem:



    The DMR Defi stem shaves 1/2Ē off the clamp length, pulls reach from 50 to 35mm and has 5mm rise, which will pull my hands back and should net about 15mm more rise because I can fit more spacers under it with my short cut steerer.

    Even with the riser bars and stock stem, my saddle is 1.5Ē to 2Ē above the highest point of the bars.

    Iím 6í4Ē with 35Ē inseam, so nothing crazy proportionally. Frame is an XL.

    My chest and arms are not over the bars. The bike feels normal as far as fit, but definitely more upright than Iím used to - like a beach cruiser vs my past bikes feeling more set back in the saddle. This is the steeper ST.

    Saddle is all the way back, and nose up, but I still feel weighted hands. Iím still playing with the nose height with my new Ergon saddle (most comfortable saddle Iíve had). I would be having numb nuts with most saddles at this angle, but so far itís ok with the Ergon. I may try it a little steeper.

    I think I need to get my bars higher, but the LBS cut the steerer where it is, and I have the Max spacers under the (Ibis) stem right now, which is 25mm. The new stem will let me get another 10mm of spacers under it.

    Do I go back to my LBS 6 mo the after purchase and ask them to pay for Fox to install a new steerer, and this time donít cut it too short? Itís taken me a long time to figure this out, and still not convinced I have yet. Even so, I donít think I can blame the LBS.


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    I'm 6'4" on the same bike with 10mm riser bars and 60mm stem with 25mm of spacers. My seat is all the way back and perfectly level. At our height getting the bars level with the saddle is usually not feasible.

    Your seat should be as level as possible.

    I come from an XC/road background so my bars feel very high and my trails are very steep(45+%).

    The next thing I would try is a 170mm fork. It will raise your bars and slacken your STA. It's under $40 and your fork probably needs a service anyway, even if it's brand new. I like to replace my stock seals with Push seals as they are better/slicker.

    I would personally not put a 35mm stem on the bike, but everyone is different and it might work better for you. If you get your weight to far back the bike will not have enough front wheel grip on flatter corners.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    I'm 6'4" on the same bike with 10mm riser bars and 60mm stem with 25mm of spacers. My seat is all the way back and perfectly level. At our height getting the bars level with the saddle is usually not feasible.

    Your seat should be as level as possible.

    I come from an XC/road background so my bars feel very high and my trails are very steep(45+%).

    The next thing I would try is a 170mm fork. It will raise your bars and slacken your STA. It's under $40 and your fork probably needs a service anyway, even if it's brand new. I like to replace my stock seals with Push seals as they are better/slicker.

    I would personally not put a 35mm stem on the bike, but everyone is different and it might work better for you. If you get your weight to far back the bike will not have enough front wheel grip on flatter corners.
    How you get the Fork to 170? Spacers I guess ?


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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I have these 50mm rise bars:



    And these 45mm rise bars:



    This stem will be here this week to replace the 50mm Ibis stem:



    The DMR Defi stem shaves 1/2Ē off the clamp length, pulls reach from 50 to 35mm and has 5mm rise, which will pull my hands back and should net about 15mm more rise because I can fit more spacers under it with my short cut steerer.

    Even with the riser bars and stock stem, my saddle is 1.5Ē to 2Ē above the highest point of the bars.

    Iím 6í4Ē with 35Ē inseam, so nothing crazy proportionally. Frame is an XL.

    My chest and arms are not over the bars. The bike feels normal as far as fit, but definitely more upright than Iím used to - like a beach cruiser vs my past bikes feeling more set back in the saddle. This is the steeper ST.

    Saddle is all the way back, and nose up, but I still feel weighted hands. Iím still playing with the nose height with my new Ergon saddle (most comfortable saddle Iíve had). I would be having numb nuts with most saddles at this angle, but so far itís ok with the Ergon. I may try it a little steeper.

    I think I need to get my bars higher, but the LBS cut the steerer where it is, and I have the Max spacers under the (Ibis) stem right now, which is 25mm. The new stem will let me get another 10mm of spacers under it.

    Do I go back to my LBS 6 mo the after purchase and ask them to pay for Fox to install a new steerer, and this time donít cut it too short? Itís taken me a long time to figure this out, and still not convinced I have yet. Even so, I donít think I can blame the LBS.

    Not me on the bike, but gives you an idea about setup.




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    Why would you pull your hands and bars closer ?

    On a small drop that lets say you donít see right or read right - imo you increase your chances of being bucked OTB


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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    I'm 6'4" on the same bike with 10mm riser bars and 60mm stem with 25mm of spacers. My seat is all the way back and perfectly level. At our height getting the bars level with the saddle is usually not feasible.

    Your seat should be as level as possible.

    I come from an XC/road background so my bars feel very high and my trails are very steep(45+%).

    The next thing I would try is a 170mm fork. It will raise your bars and slacken your STA. It's under $40 and your fork probably needs a service anyway, even if it's brand new. I like to replace my stock seals with Push seals as they are better/slicker.

    I would personally not put a 35mm stem on the bike, but everyone is different and it might work better for you. If you get your weight to far back the bike will not have enough front wheel grip on flatter corners.
    I didnít mention, I have the 170mm fork modification (spacers). My trails are moderately steep, and everything feels good on all but the flat/ transitions between climbs and descents. I lowered my fork pressure to 65psi and that made it feel more plush. Iíve never bottomed out, but am within 3/4Ē of Max travel. Iím about 210#.

    My assumption is a longer stem will push my weight even further forward. Am I thinking about this wrong?


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    Does anyone regret their Ripmo buy ?

    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Why would you pull your hands and bars closer ?

    On a small drop that lets say you donít see right or read right - imo you increase your chances of being bucked OTB


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    This is perplexing to me. I assumed a closer stem moves weight off the hands, and longer pushes it onto the hands, but??

    Last week, I put my Spank riser bars back on and tilted them forward (grips about an inch further forward). I had the worst hand pain and pressure on and after that ride than with any other Ripmo setup so far. I rotated the bars back, and the pressure was noticeably less.

    The top tube on this bike is long, so my current 50mm stem saddle to bar distance is the same as my XL JET 9 with 110mm stem.


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    Demoed a SB130 before buying the ripmo and glad I went with the ripmo. Yeti felt more glued to the ground and almost "dead" whereas the ripmo is much more playful while still being very stable. Also felt the ripmo rolled over chunky climbs better than the sb130. The sb130 did seem to accelerate faster climbing though, but I felt it got hung more on chunky stuff on climbs

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    ...Even with the riser bars and stock stem, my saddle is 1.5Ē to 2Ē above the highest point of the bars.

    Iím 6í4Ē with 35Ē inseam, so nothing crazy proportionally. Frame is an XL.

    My chest and arms are not over the bars. The bike feels normal as far as fit, but definitely more upright than Iím used to - like a beach cruiser vs my past bikes feeling more set back in the saddle. This is the steeper ST. ...


    ...I think I need to get my bars higher, but the LBS cut the steerer where it is, and I have the Max spacers under the (Ibis) stem right now, which is 25mm. The new stem will let me get another 10mm of spacers under it.

    Do I go back to my LBS 6 mo the after purchase and ask them to pay for Fox to install a new steerer, and this time donít cut it too short?...
    For your information I'm 191 cm which I believe is quite close to what you are and I have a size XL Ripmo also. I like to ride on a quite upright position on my bikes and on my previous bike (Ripley v1) the top of the saddle was on the same level as the middle of the handlebar ends.

    I specifically requested the Ibis dealer who built up my Ripmo to not cut the steerer tube too short and to set the handlebars at the same height compared to the saddle as on my Ripley. When they were building up the bike they called me to tell me that even with the steerer tube uncut they couldn't get the handlebars as high as requested. So the with the steerer tube uncut the top of the handlebar is on the same level as the top of the saddle on my bike.

    With this seating position the bike still feels balanced but I do still get a little more pressure on my hands compared to my Ripley. This is not disturbing however.

    My Ripmo is the XX1 version with 55 mm stem and the Enve handlebar that comes with the build kit. The saddle height is 81 cm measured from the center of the bottom bracket [Edited: to the top of the saddle].
    Last edited by Portti; 3 Days Ago at 10:54 PM.
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  45. #45
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    I'm not sure I get why a steeper seat tube angle would have anything to do with your issues. Reach numbers are reach numbers, regardless of the seat angle. No? What was the reach on your old bike? What is the reach on your new bike? Are you running the same stack height in relation to your saddle height?

    Did you ride bikes 10 years ago, when bikes had super long stems and your weight was over the front of the bike? Do you ride road at all? Do you have these issues on your road bike? Just curious if maybe it's something else?

    I have issues with numb hands as well, but mostly when descending. I've had the issue for years, and on all of my bikes, so in my case, it's not my Ripmo, but more of a me issue. I am now running the SQLabs 12 degree bars, and the revolution grips, but I'm not sure how much any of that helps. What does help most is to focus on heavy feet, and light hands. I also move my hands inwards off the grips when riding on flat sections, or non technical smooth climbs which helps tremendously.

    I've found my issue is at its worst when riding really rough trails, with constant trail chatter. The more you can improve your forks small bump compliance the better. I ride in the CO front range, so chunk and trail chatter are unavoidable. Good luck with your hands. Sucks to be descending steep chunky trail and your hands start going numb.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebry74 View Post
    I'm not sure I get why a steeper seat tube angle would have anything to do with your issues. Reach numbers are reach numbers, regardless of the seat angle. No? What was the reach on your old bike? What is the reach on your new bike? Are you running the same stack height in relation to your saddle height?

    Did you ride bikes 10 years ago, when bikes had super long stems and your weight was over the front of the bike? Do you ride road at all? Do you have these issues on your road bike? Just curious if maybe it's something else?

    I have issues with numb hands as well, but mostly when descending. I've had the issue for years, and on all of my bikes, so in my case, it's not my Ripmo, but more of a me issue. I am now running the SQLabs 12 degree bars, and the revolution grips, but I'm not sure how much any of that helps. What does help most is to focus on heavy feet, and light hands. I also move my hands inwards off the grips when riding on flat sections, or non technical smooth climbs which helps tremendously.

    I've found my issue is at its worst when riding really rough trails, with constant trail chatter. The more you can improve your forks small bump compliance the better. I ride in the CO front range, so chunk and trail chatter are unavoidable. Good luck with your hands. Sucks to be descending steep chunky trail and your hands start going numb.
    Reach #ís change according to the STA


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  47. #47
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    Oh, and for the OP, since it's your thread; no, I do not regret getting the Ripmo. I do regret selling my HD3 though. I loved that bike and felt it was one of the best trail bikes out there. Seemed to do everything well for my riding style and ability.

    Based on the type of riding you describe, it may be an unnecessary amount of bike for you. A Ripley with a 140 fork, or some other more trail oriented bike would probably be more enjoyable. It's my opinion that most people tend to over-bike for their ability and the trails they ride.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by SylentK View Post
    I've only had a handful of rides on my Ripmo, but yeah, I feel that too on flat-ish trails. And exacerbated by faster, rougher flatish trails. I found if I move my butt as far back on the seat as possible, it helps alleviate the hand pressure. Therefore I moved my seat back about 5mm on the seat post to see if that helps. My old man knees are pretty sensitive to changes like this, so this is an experiment for sure.

    I ride an XL frame, 50mm stem (no rise), 780mm wide bar, 8* back, 4* up, 30mm rise. And 30mm spacer under stem. I'm 6'3" FYI...

    I have a history of hand/wrist injuries from racing and crashing. I find when I'm in "rehab" stage, the Ergon winged grips like the GA3 really help me to get back riding while getting my strength back. That may help too.
    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I am starting to lose hope now, as I donít want to continue throwing money blindly at potential fixes without knowing something is going to help. Iím not sure a setback post will help. The foam grips I ordered a few days ago were of no help.

    My palms are still bruised and fatigued. The rain is probably giving me a good break so they can heal a bit.

    Starting to think about hand and core strengthening to adapt to the bike rather than holding out hope that the bike can be adapted to me.


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    Haven't really read all you have tried so far, so just ignore this if I repeat it.
    1. Try more spacers under the stem or a different bars with more raise
    2. Try adjusting the saddle angle. Move the tip higher.
    3. Get Revolution grips. They aren't cheap, but they do work. I have inflammation in my hands and these grips helped a lot.
    4. Make sure the fork is set up properly


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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Reach #ís change according to the STA


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    Dude. No.

    Effective Top Tube changes with seat angle. Reach does not.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I lowered my fork pressure to 65psi and that made it feel more plush. Iíve never bottomed out, but am within 3/4Ē of Max travel. Iím about 210#.
    65PSI seems like not enough pressure for that fork at 210 lbs. Could be that your fork is always sinking/diving way too far into its travel, causing you to tip forward, putting tons of weight and pressure on your hands. All the extra height you've added with spacers and riser bars exacerbates the problem.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    This is perplexing to me. I assumed a closer stem moves weight off the hands, and longer pushes it onto the hands, but??

    Last week, I put my Spank riser bars back on and tilted them forward (grips about an inch further forward). I had the worst hand pain and pressure on and after that ride than with any other Ripmo setup so far. I rotated the bars back, and the pressure was noticeably less.

    The top tube on this bike is long, so my current 50mm stem saddle to bar distance is the same as my XL JET 9 with 110mm stem.


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    Iím 6í2Ē with 35 inseam. I have my bars even with saddle height which took a lot of spacers and riser bar. Interestingly, my bars on 40mm stem are 30mm closer than on previous bike which was a niner RIP 9 RDO XL. I feel much better in terms of seat/hand weight balance on Ripmo. My hands are significantly more weighted but thatís been good because it was a struggle on previous bike.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebry74 View Post
    What was the reach on your old bike? What is the reach on your new bike? Are you running the same stack height in relation to your saddle height?

    Old bike reach was about the same (48.0cm on Jet 9 with long stem). Ibis XL reach = 49.3cm. Stack height was less on Jet 9, but resulted in the bars being higher with a lower riser bar.

    Did you ride bikes 10 years ago, when bikes had super long stems and your weight was over the front of the bike? Do you ride road at all? Do you have these issues on your road bike? Just curious if maybe it's something else?

    Yes and yes. Some issues with road biking, but not as bad, and the Jet 9 didn't cause the same discomfort. I'm trying out Ergon GA3 grips and padded gloves. Currently running GE1 Ergon, and I don't feel enough palm support.

    I also move my hands inwards off the grips when riding on flat sections, or non technical smooth climbs which helps tremendously.

    I don't have much room inside of my grips with dropper post, brake lever, remote for lights and a bell on the left side and shifter and brake levers on the right. Makes sense that this would push your body up and back though.

    I've found my issue is at its worst when riding really rough trails, with constant trail chatter. The more you can improve your forks small bump compliance the better. I ride in the CO front range, so chunk and trail chatter are unavoidable. Good luck with your hands. Sucks to be descending steep chunky trail and your hands start going numb.

    My issues are completely limited to anything other than steep up or steep down riding. I don't have vibration issues, just pressure from weight on hands.
    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Haven't really read all you have tried so far, so just ignore this if I repeat it.
    1. Try more spacers under the stem or a different bars with more raise
    2. Try adjusting the saddle angle. Move the tip higher.
    3. Get Revolution grips. They aren't cheap, but they do work. I have inflammation in my hands and these grips helped a lot.
    4. Make sure the fork is set up properly

    Thanks - maximum stem spacers, but new shorty clamp stem coming today or tomorrow will give me 15mm more, and 5mm rise. That should help. I've tried the saddle, and makes very little difference. Thought about Rev Grips, but since it's not a vibration issue, - it's pressure, I'm not sure they will work. A super gel-like soft grip might help. ESI Extra Chunky foam grips were still too hard.
    Fork/ Shock setup - I'm renting 2 Shockwiz units this weekend to see how my fork/ shock setup pans out, and hopefully dial that in.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Portti View Post

    I specifically requested the Ibis dealer who built up my Ripmo to not cut the steerer tube too short and to set the handlebars at the same height compared to the saddle as on my Ripley. When they were building up the bike they called me to tell me that even with the steerer tube uncut they couldn't get the handlebars as high as requested. So the with the steerer tube uncut the top of the handlebar is on the same level as the top of the saddle on my bike.

    Interesting, thanks. The top of my riser handlebar (grips, not stem clamp) is 1.5" below the top of my saddle. My shop cut it, which I wish they wouldn't have.

    My Ripmo is the XX1 version with 55 mm stem and the Enve handlebar that comes with the build kit. The saddle height is 81 cm measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the saddle rails.

    Mine measures 77.5 cm (same measurement). You must have really long legs.
    Quote Originally Posted by attaboy View Post
    Iím 6í2Ē with 35 inseam. I have my bars even with saddle height which took a lot of spacers and riser bar. Interestingly, my bars on 40mm stem are 30mm closer than on previous bike which was a niner RIP 9 RDO XL. I feel much better in terms of seat/hand weight balance on Ripmo. My hands are significantly more weighted but thatís been good because it was a struggle on previous bike.

    I'm hoping that the DMR Defi stem, new grips and which ever of the three riser bars that I own end up working, I can find that balance. I definitely do not have any issues with the front not being weighted enough, so I can afford, and would welcome some of my weight shifting from my hands to my pedals or saddle!
    Thanks.
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  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    My issues are completely limited to anything other than steep up or steep down riding. I don't have vibration issues, just pressure from weight on hands.
    If this is the case, you really need to try and focus taking some of the weight off of your hands. I just don't think it's normal to feel so weighted. Do you work out your core? A strong core will definitely help with this, and mountain biking in general. Maybe you need to adjust your saddle so you're not sliding forward. This can make a significant difference, and minor adjustments (1 degree at a time) can be major.

    I also have clutter inside of my grips, brake dropper, and brake shifter, but I just rest my hands over top with a very loose grip. Also, what width bars are you running. Wider bars are going to bring your weight forward as well. Wider is NOT always better.

    Good luck!

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by SylentK View Post
    I've only had a handful of rides on my Ripmo, but yeah, I feel that too on flat-ish trails. And exacerbated by faster, rougher flatish trails. I found if I move my butt as far back on the seat as possible, it helps alleviate the hand pressure. Therefore I moved my seat back about 5mm on the seat post to see if that helps. My old man knees are pretty sensitive to changes like this, so this is an experiment for sure.

    I ride an XL frame, 50mm stem (no rise), 780mm wide bar, 8* back, 4* up, 30mm rise. And 30mm spacer under stem. I'm 6'3" FYI...

    I have a history of hand/wrist injuries from racing and crashing. I find when I'm in "rehab" stage, the Ergon winged grips like the GA3 really help me to get back riding while getting my strength back. That may help too.
    The seat tube angle is why I cancelled my Ripley order. I wanted to see what it felt like but I'm already about as far back on the rails as I can be on my Evil Following and a ~2 degree steeper angle means a relative position of ~20mm forward. I'm not sure my knees would like that.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    The seat tube angle is why I cancelled my Ripley order. I wanted to see what it felt like but I'm already about as far back on the rails as I can be on my Evil Following and a ~2 degree steeper angle means a relative position of ~20mm forward. I'm not sure my knees would like that.
    Did you test ride it ?


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  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Did you test ride it ?


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    No. I will but the motivation is low, still love my bike (V1 Evil Following with XX1/X01, Pike RCT3, carbon Roval, Factory shock, Factory Transfer, ENVE bar) but itís old enough itís probably not worth much so Iíd have to really love something to pull the trigger. The order was an impulse buy and I got a hint of buyers remorse the next day so I cancelled it while I could.

    It just kind of hit me that my Evil is the longest Iíve ever kept the same bike, even road bikes and I got hit with the "new toy" bug and thought the Ripley sounded cool but then backed out. Still planning on buying something, just taking my time.

  57. #57
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    I find the amount the bar is rolled forward or back makes a huge difference with hand and wrist pain. Rolling the Ibis bar back a bit seems to make my wrists a lot more happy. My old Enve bar was more comfortable.

    No regrets on the Ripmo. Not many bikes made me want to move on from the HD3!

  58. #58
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    You don't understand reach, huh?

    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Reach #ís change according to the STA


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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    You don't understand reach, huh?
    Letís think about it ... if that STA is moved from 72 to 77 - your reach will change .


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  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebry74 View Post
    If this is the case, you really need to try and focus taking some of the weight off of your hands. I just don't think it's normal to feel so weighted. Do you work out your core? A strong core will definitely help with this, and mountain biking in general. Good luck!
    Great advice here, and definitely matches my experience. When I slack off on core exercises (combo of strength training, yoga, and stretching) I notice it in my back but also my hands. Numbness as you describe. Back on the exercises & the issues go away...
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  61. #61
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    You don't understand reach, huh?

    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Letís think about it ... if that STA is moved from 72 to 77 - your reach will change .


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  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Letís think about it ... if that STA is moved from 72 to 77 - your reach will change .


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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    You don't understand reach, huh?
    A picture is worth a thousand words:
    https://s3.amazonaws.com/ibiscycles....pmo-230318.png

    The reach does not change with STA. A severe change in STA may have other changes that follow that do change the reach and stack, but by itself, no, the STA does not change the reach.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebry74 View Post
    If this is the case, you really need to try and focus taking some of the weight off of your hands. I just don't think it's normal to feel so weighted. Do you work out your core? A strong core will definitely help with this, and mountain biking in general. Maybe you need to adjust your saddle so you're not sliding forward. This can make a significant difference, and minor adjustments (1 degree at a time) can be major.

    I also have clutter inside of my grips, brake dropper, and brake shifter, but I just rest my hands over top with a very loose grip. Also, what width bars are you running. Wider bars are going to bring your weight forward as well. Wider is NOT always better.

    Good luck!
    Good advise. My core is not very strong right now. I hurt my back every few years when I stop paying attention to my core, and I kick myself. Iím on borrowed time right now. In addition to core exercises, is there anything someone could do for their hands to build up strength or tolerance for pressure points?

    Bars are 780 (cut down from 800). I came from old style 680 (or so) carbon riser bars. It took a while to get used to the wider bars, but I now like them.


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  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRSpalding View Post
    A picture is worth a thousand words:
    https://s3.amazonaws.com/ibiscycles....pmo-230318.png

    The reach does not change with STA. A severe change in STA may have other changes that follow that do change the reach and stack, but by itself, no, the STA does not change the reach.
    Iím not talking about the number I mean your torso is now more forward - less over the rear ...
    Your saddle comfort changes


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  65. #65
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    You're the most aggressively dumb new person on this site in some time. Congratulations.

    Maybe do more reading and less posting, so you don't seem so foolish.

    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Iím not talking about the number I mean your torso is now more forward - less over the rear ...
    Your saddle comfort changes


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    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    You're the most aggressively dumb new person on this site in some time. Congratulations.

    Maybe do more reading and less posting, so you don't seem so foolish.
    A degree of STA Change - changes the reach by a cm - schmuck


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  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    A degree of STA Change - changes the reach by a cm - schmuck


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    The total change in top tube length is variable base based on actual STA and stack. You are confusing it with reach.

    Reach is a fixed measurement from directly above the BB to the center of the headset at stack height.

    STA has zero effect on it.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    A degree of STA Change - changes the reach by a cm - schmuck


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    "Reach" is a defined term in bike geometry and fit. It has a specific meaning and you are consistently using it incorrectly.

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    The total change in top tube length is variable base based on actual STA and stack. You are confusing it with reach.

    Reach is a fixed measurement from directly above the BB to the center of the headset at stack height.

    STA has zero effect on it.
    We understand this - my point wasnít about any of this - it was about torso change - feeling pushed forward.

    STA absolutely can make you feel cramped or comfortable.

    I just had a convo w a SC - yeti fitter about this.


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  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    We understand this - my point wasnít about any of this - it was about torso change - feeling pushed forward.

    STA absolutely can make you feel cramped or comfortable.

    I just had a convo w a SC - yeti fitter about this.


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    You can't possibly be this dense?

    Yes, STA matters in how a bike feels. What you are describing is the shorter top tube length. You should be using "ETT" or "Top Tube" length in your comments. Your use of the term "Reach" is objectively incorrect.

  71. #71
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    moving seat forward changes ETT. reach is a measurement specific to front of the frame; the distance between the bb and the HT.

    you can colloquially say moving seat changes reach, but that is not how the term is typically used in this context. you're both talking past each other.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Anyone wish they went Megatower or Yeti 130/50?

    I see all these amazing reviews and I just wanna check to see if people are satisfied...

    I test rode one yesterday


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    bro if your 6'5 230 you should probably stay away from Yeti until they figure out the seat tube cracking issue(s) and all that.

    megatower will be most durable for you, ripmo best all around bike, just make sure you have your warranty papers in case the lower pivots ever give you issue.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    moving seat forward changes ETT. reach is a measurement specific to front of the frame; the distance between the bb and the HT.

    you can colloquially say moving seat changes reach, but that is not how the term is typically used in this context. you're both talking past each other.
    Adding a longer stem can also change reach theoretically - correct ?


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  74. #74
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    yea. but Reach, capital R, is a term used to describe frame dimensions.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    bro if your 6'5 230 you should probably stay away from Yeti until they figure out the seat tube cracking issue(s) and all that.

    megatower will be most durable for you, ripmo best all around bike, just make sure you have your warranty papers in case the lower pivots ever give you issue.
    Isnt the Megatower really a DH aimed bike ?

    I wasnít aware of the seat tube issues on the 130?

    Ripmo best choice eh ?




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  76. #76
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    Regardless of the jargon there is really nothing exceptional about the seat tube angle or reach on a Ripmo at this point.

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  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbd View Post
    Regardless of the jargon there is really nothing exceptional about the seat tube angle or reach on a Ripmo at this point.

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    it's a little excessive unless you're short-femured. I have other bikes that i like to get the MTB pedal position semi-close to.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Isnt the Megatower really a DH aimed bike ?

    I wasnít aware of the seat tube issues on the 130?

    Ripmo best choice eh ?




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    MT is a bit on the enduro side. won't pedal as well.

    Yeti tribe members will fight this to the death, but there's documented issues there.

    Ripmo is one of the best all-around bikes ever made IMO.

    if you're not sold, maybe wait until the next Intense Primer comes out in August.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Adding a longer stem can also change reach theoretically - correct ?


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    No

    It's like saying that change fork travel changes offset. It does not. It changes trail. They are different things.

    You can say that you need more reach and get it by adding a longer stem, but Reach of a frame is a technical term with well defined parameters.

    Just use ETT or top tube and you will be technically correct. STA does effect it.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  80. #80
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    You guys are being incredibly patient. I wish I had that gene. Well done.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    Adding a longer stem can also change reach theoretically - correct ?


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    The stem does not change the frame's reach, but it changes what I like to call 'effective reach'
    And it's something I look at when I'm comparing two bikes and how they will fit when in the standing position.
    I had a L Yeti that felt about 5mm too short while standing with a 60mm stem and chose a L Mondraker that gained me the 5mm in length I desired, but with a preferable 35mm length stem.

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  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    it's a little excessive unless you're short-femured. I have other bikes that i like to get the MTB pedal position semi-close to.
    In your opinion.

    What I was trying to say that the STA on the Ripmo is now commonplace on a lot of newer bikes.

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  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    Bars are 780 (cut down from 800). I came from old style 680 (or so) carbon riser bars. It took a while to get used to the wider bars, but I now like them.
    780 is pretty wide! I'm 5'11" and built on the thinner side and I have most of my bars cut down to 760, which is still plenty wide. Depending on your size, shoulders width, and how you want the bike to feel, you may want to consider cutting the bars down a bit. One thing you could to depending on what grips you have, is just remove the end caps, and move the grips inward to where 760 would be or even 740 and see how it feels before you cut. You may be surprised by the difference.

    I also would stay away from gloves with any padding. I feel the padding just creates pressure points. Just find a good grip that is the correct size for you hands. I recently tried the SQLabs 711 MX grips and like them. SQLabs also has a tool to measure the size of your hand so you're not guessing.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    You guys are being incredibly patient. I wish I had that gene. Well done.
    I'm not sure it's patience. Nothing about interacting on the internet should hold you up or cause you to tolerate any sort of pain. You can always just move on. I think it's the empathy or kindness gene you may be missing. I mean seriously, we aren't talking politics or religion here.

  85. #85
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    idk. empathy is way overused. it's hard to have empathy for someone who *chooses* not to use their brain or just wants to be pedantic or obstinate. maybe if that person says "hey guys i'm sorry bear with me, i'm autistic" empathy would apply. otherwise, he's got a point.

    sorry for the derail.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    idk. empathy is way overused. it's hard to have empathy for someone who *chooses* not to use their brain or just wants to be pedantic or obstinate. maybe if that person says "hey guys i'm sorry bear with me, i'm autistic" empathy would apply. otherwise, he's got a point.

    sorry for the derail.
    Bwahahahaha!

  87. #87
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    this is what happens larry

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebry74 View Post
    780 is pretty wide! I'm 5'11" and built on the thinner side and I have most of my bars cut down to 760, which is still plenty wide. Depending on your size, shoulders width, and how you want the bike to feel, you may want to consider cutting the bars down a bit. One thing you could to depending on what grips you have, is just remove the end caps, and move the grips inward to where 760 would be or even 740 and see how it feels before you cut. You may be surprised by the difference.

    I also would stay away from gloves with any padding. I feel the padding just creates pressure points. Just find a good grip that is the correct size for you hands. I recently tried the SQLabs 711 MX grips and like them. SQLabs also has a tool to measure the size of your hand so you're not guessing.
    Iím 6í4Ē, (and 210#) so wider bars are more proportional correct for me I think. If it would help my posture to cut them down, Iím open to it. Iíll play with the grip positioning width wise and see if it improves things. Iíve also started a core workout plan this morning, and some PT exercises for my Ulnar nerve, so Iím hoping that helps.

    My first ride with Ergon GA3 grips will be tomorrow morning, so I hope those soft wings spread some of the pressure out.




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  89. #89
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    https://youtu.be/qo2jfMTIflA


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  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    Originally Posted by Portti View Post

    ...My Ripmo is the XX1 version with 55 mm stem and the Enve handlebar that comes with the build kit. The saddle height is 81 cm measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the saddle rails.

    Mine measures 77.5 cm (same measurement). You must have really long legs.
    Oops, sorry my mistake. That 81 cm is actually to the top of the saddle. Sorry for that. I corrected my original post to reflect the actual situation.
    Pertti
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  91. #91
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    I regret not having bought a Ripmo yet.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I lowered my fork pressure to 65psi and that made it feel more plush. Iíve never bottomed out, but am within 3/4Ē of Max travel. Iím about 210#.
    Quote Originally Posted by ReXTless View Post
    65PSI seems like not enough pressure for that fork at 210 lbs. Could be that your fork is always sinking/diving way too far into its travel, causing you to tip forward, putting tons of weight and pressure on your hands. All the extra height you've added with spacers and riser bars exacerbates the problem.
    I agree, 65psi "should" be way too low. At 210 you should be up around 90 give or take

    You may want to use Fox's setup guide and get the fork back to their recommended baseline and go from there. If you are really running 65psi I would think you would have to be running a lot of compression to keep the fork from blowing through its travel.

  93. #93
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    I ordered my Ripmo about a week ago. Hasn't come yet but I have no regrets.
    My name is Chris and I ride a Prophet 650b with a Lefty.

  94. #94
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    isleblue65 try moving your cleats back. this will move your feet forward and you will have to lower your seat.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I am starting to lose hope now, as I donít want to continue throwing money blindly at potential fixes without knowing something is going to help.
    Have you tried adjusting your seat angle at all? It's amazing what even a half a degree can do. I have an old wrist injury and arthritic hands so am very sensitive to too much weight on them. Tilting my seat back just a tiny bit helps big time if I notice my hands and wrist getting sore. I know if I've tilted it too far back because then my butt starts to hurt. You just have to find the happy medium!

  96. #96
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    Does anyone regret their Ripmo buy ?

    Iím renting two Shockwiz suspension tuning modules this Friday for a week, and I will set my sag and fork setting to factory recommended settings first. I can tell you that Iím not bottoming out my fork, and it feels a lot more plush since lowering the pressure from factory recommendation.

    Iíve already moved my cleats all the way back. I adjusted my saddle fore, aft and tilt. Strangely these didnít make much difference.

    The Ergon GA3 grips helped a lot. Iím still working on core strength and some setting changes to reduce hand pressure, but the GA3s do a good job of distributing the pressure across my outer palms.




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  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    Iím renting two Shockwiz suspension tuning modules this Friday for a week, and I will set my sag and fork setting to factory recommended settings first. I can tell you that Iím not bottoming out my fork, and it feels a lot more plush since lowering the pressure from factory recommendation.

    Iíve already moved my cleats all the way back. I adjusted my saddle fore, aft and tilt. Strangely these didnít make much difference.

    The Ergon GA3 grips helped a lot. Iím still working on core strength and some setting changes to reduce hand pressure, but the GA3s do a good job of distributing the pressure across my outer palms.




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    I was around your weight and found the Fox setup guide to be pretty much useless.

    Around 80 psi, and two volume reducers you should get plushness with decent support.

    I'm now 198 and running 78 psi and this same setup and it is working very well

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

  98. #98
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    I regret selling mine and now im building up another.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rom3n View Post
    I regret selling mine and now im building up another.
    Which other bikes do you own at the moment and why did you regret selling it?

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  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbd View Post
    I was around your weight and found the Fox setup guide to be pretty much useless.

    Around 80 psi, and two volume reducers you should get plushness with decent support.

    I'm now 198 and running 78 psi and this same setup and it is working very well

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
    Agree with SBD. This seems like a better starting point for you, OP, than the Fox suggestions.

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