2019 Ibis Ripley V4 - Page 12- Mtbr.com
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  1. #2201
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    Quote Originally Posted by moff_quigley View Post
    Finished my build Sunday.

    Frame: Medium, Factory DPS (my height 5'9")...
    Nice pragmatic build!

    Can you share your cycling (not pants) inseam and saddle height measurements?

    - Another 5'9"er

  2. #2202
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    What width are the spacers?
    5mm each

  3. #2203
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    I'm strongly considering the Ripley as my next bike, but have seen some posts about it running small. I'm 6'3" with average proportions for this height. Do any of you think the XL would feel too small for me?

    Looking at the geo numbers and sizing guide on Ibis' website, it seems like I should be fine. I'm currently on an XL 2017 Specialized Camber, which feels good to me.

  4. #2204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Peepers View Post
    I'm strongly considering the Ripley as my next bike, but have seen some posts about it running small. I'm 6'3" with average proportions for this height. Do any of you think the XL would feel too small for me?

    Looking at the geo numbers and sizing guide on Ibis' website, it seems like I should be fine. I'm currently on an XL 2017 Specialized Camber, which feels good to me.
    XL should be fine. I first bought a large and it was just a bit too small. Sold that one to a buddy and got a XL. The XL with a 40mm stem feels perfect to me.

    6'2" 33" inseam, ape +2

  5. #2205
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    How often does Ibis change their colour schemes? should we expect new choices in 2020 for the Ripley?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #2206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Peepers View Post
    I'm strongly considering the Ripley as my next bike, but have seen some posts about it running small. I'm 6'3" with average proportions for this height. Do any of you think the XL would feel too small for me?

    Looking at the geo numbers and sizing guide on Ibis' website, it seems like I should be fine. I'm currently on an XL 2017 Specialized Camber, which feels good to me.
    you'll be fine unless you're locked into a 35mm stem.

  7. #2207
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    How often does Ibis change their colour schemes? should we expect new choices in 2020 for the Ripley?
    I want to say that Ibis typically waits two years to switch colors as a way to goose sales for the last year or so of the frame's life. So 2021 if that holds true.

  8. #2208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Peepers View Post
    I'm strongly considering the Ripley as my next bike, but have seen some posts about it running small. I'm 6'3" with average proportions for this height. Do any of you think the XL would feel too small for me?

    Looking at the geo numbers and sizing guide on Ibis' website, it seems like I should be fine. I'm currently on an XL 2017 Specialized Camber, which feels good to me.
    That's my size (192cm, 92cm inseam), and XL fits fine.
    (45mm stem)

  9. #2209
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    My New Ride

    Finally finished my Ripley build:

    Frame- IBIS Ripley 4 140mm/120mm (Large)
    Rear Shock- Fox Float DPS Factory EVOL
    Fork- Fox 34 Factory Evol 140mm 44mm/Kabolt
    Crank- Raceface Next R Cinch Boost 170mm w/ 32t
    Btm Brkt- Chris King 73mm w/ conversion #21Wide
    Derailleur- Shimano XTR M9100
    Cassette- Shimano XTR M9100 10-51t
    Chain- Shimano XTR M9100
    Shifter- Shimano XTR M9100
    Headset- Cane Creek 110 44/56mm/Chris King Spacers
    Chain Guide- Absolute Black
    Stem- Enve M6 40mm
    Handlebar- Enve M6 780mm 25mm rise
    Grips- ODI AG-2 Lock-On
    Seatpost- KS Lev CI Carbon Internal Dropper 150mm
    Remote- KS Lev Carbon
    Saddle- Tioga Undercover Stratum Titanium
    Front Brake- Shimano XTR M9120 4-Piston
    Rear Brake- Shimano XTR M9120 4-Piston
    Front Disc- Shimano XTR Ice Tech 203mm MT900
    Rear Disc- Shimano XTR Ice Tech 180mm MT900
    Pedals- Crank Brothers Mallet E 11

    Front Wheel- I-9 Hydra Boost Centerlock 110/15mm
    Ibis S35 Carbon Wheel 29" 32h 35mm inner diameter
    Sapim CX-Ray Spokes
    I-9 Tubeless stem valve (Ordered Orange)
    Front Tire- Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.6"

    Rear Wheel- I-9 Hydra Boost Centerlock 148/12mm
    Ibis S35 Carbon Wheel 29" 32h 35mm inner diameter
    Sapim CX-Ray Spokes
    I-9 Tubeless Stem Valve (Ordered Orange)
    Rear Tire- Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.6"
    Hub Drive- I-9 MicroSpline Driver

    27 lbs. 9 oz.
    (Yes with pedals)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2019 Ibis Ripley V4-img_0026.jpg  

    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-img_0021.jpg  


  10. #2210
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    That's a nice build. Should be a great spec for a capable trail bike.

    I just put our names on the waiting list for a pair (Sm,Lg)!

  11. #2211
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    Quote Originally Posted by RipleyV4 View Post
    Finally finished my Ripley build:

    Frame- IBIS Ripley 4 140mm/120mm (Large)
    Rear Shock- Fox Float DPS Factory EVOL
    Fork- Fox 34 Factory Evol 140mm 44mm/Kabolt
    Crank- Raceface Next R Cinch Boost 170mm w/ 32t
    Btm Brkt- Chris King 73mm w/ conversion #21Wide
    Derailleur- Shimano XTR M9100
    Cassette- Shimano XTR M9100 10-51t
    Chain- Shimano XTR M9100
    Shifter- Shimano XTR M9100
    Headset- Cane Creek 110 44/56mm/Chris King Spacers
    Chain Guide- Absolute Black
    Stem- Enve M6 40mm
    Handlebar- Enve M6 780mm 25mm rise
    Grips- ODI AG-2 Lock-On
    Seatpost- KS Lev CI Carbon Internal Dropper 150mm
    Remote- KS Lev Carbon
    Saddle- Tioga Undercover Stratum Titanium
    Front Brake- Shimano XTR M9120 4-Piston
    Rear Brake- Shimano XTR M9120 4-Piston
    Front Disc- Shimano XTR Ice Tech 203mm MT900
    Rear Disc- Shimano XTR Ice Tech 180mm MT900
    Pedals- Crank Brothers Mallet E 11

    Front Wheel- I-9 Hydra Boost Centerlock 110/15mm
    Ibis S35 Carbon Wheel 29" 32h 35mm inner diameter
    Sapim CX-Ray Spokes
    I-9 Tubeless stem valve (Ordered Orange)
    Front Tire- Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.6"

    Rear Wheel- I-9 Hydra Boost Centerlock 148/12mm
    Ibis S35 Carbon Wheel 29" 32h 35mm inner diameter
    Sapim CX-Ray Spokes
    I-9 Tubeless Stem Valve (Ordered Orange)
    Rear Tire- Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.6"
    Hub Drive- I-9 MicroSpline Driver

    27 lbs. 9 oz.
    (Yes with pedals)
    sweet build have you rode it yet, that new drive train is amazing

  12. #2212
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    Big Blue
    GX build, carbon bar, XT(203/180) brakes, PNW Bac, and Ibis carbon wheels. Love this bike!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2019 Ibis Ripley V4-r4.jpg  


  13. #2213
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    Hi, I am considering a Ripley frame build up with parts used on my Yeti Sb4.5. I feel like the sb4.5 has been the near perfect bike for 99% of the Vegas trails I ride. The main reason for an upgrade is the updated geometry, at 6'4" 205 pounds I feel like it would give me better climbing efficiency and longer wheelbase for my height. Has anyone had experience on both bikes, and is it worth the upgrade when my Yeti is still running strong? Lastly how would a 140mm Fox 34 51mm offset workout on the Ripley? Thanks!

  14. #2214
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    question for those who swapped to 140mm fork. currently i have fox 130mm, but the actual exposed stanchions are 140mm. does it mean when i swap air spring that i will be able to use full length of stanchions and geometry will not change, since it seems it is at 140mm now, but only 130mm are getting used?

    thanks

  15. #2215
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    Hi, I'm trying to get decals for the Fox fork and S28 rims matching the blue color of the Ripley 4. Does anybody know where I can find them?
    I contacted Ibis and they only have for the shock.
    Thank you.

  16. #2216
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavo View Post
    question for those who swapped to 140mm fork. currently i have fox 130mm, but the actual exposed stanchions are 140mm. does it mean when i swap air spring that i will be able to use full length of stanchions and geometry will not change, since it seems it is at 140mm now, but only 130mm are getting used?

    thanks
    The geometry will change by the increase in travel, the new air shaft simply extends the travel by being longer to match the amount of the increase. The fork will never use the full upper length of the stanchion for travel, you would get very close to hitting the tire on the bottom of the crown if it did.

  17. #2217
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavo View Post
    question for those who swapped to 140mm fork. currently i have fox 130mm, but the actual exposed stanchions are 140mm. does it mean when i swap air spring that i will be able to use full length of stanchions and geometry will not change, since it seems it is at 140mm now, but only 130mm are getting used?

    thanks
    Fox tend to have 8-10mm more stanchion than travel, so if you put in a 140mm shaft, you'll have 150mm stanchion showing.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

  18. #2218
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinibis View Post
    Hi, I'm trying to get decals for the Fox fork and S28 rims matching the blue color of the Ripley 4. Does anybody know where I can find them?
    I contacted Ibis and they only have for the shock.
    Thank you.
    Slikgraphics.com does GREAT work with decals. They matched my Ripley perfectly after I gave them the Pantone #. Give Owen a shout and tell him you want Ripley decals like Brian's. They're way better than some of the other ones I've tried.
    Ibis Ripmo
    Ibis Ripley V4
    Ibis Mojo HD4
    Pivot Mach 4SL
    Pivot LES SS
    Colnago C60 Disc

  19. #2219
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    What's the pantone doe the blue

  20. #2220
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    What's the pantone doe the blue
    Pantone 5425.
    https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/5425-C
    Ibis Ripmo
    Ibis Ripley V4
    Ibis Mojo HD4
    Pivot Mach 4SL
    Pivot LES SS
    Colnago C60 Disc

  21. #2221
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    Slikgraphics.com does GREAT work with decals. They matched my Ripley perfectly after I gave them the Pantone #. Give Owen a shout and tell him you want Ripley decals like Brian's. They're way better than some of the other ones I've tried.
    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    Thanks!!!!!

  22. #2222
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    Slikgraphics.com does GREAT work with decals. They matched my Ripley perfectly after I gave them the Pantone #.
    Another happy SlikGraphics customer. I have probably got at least a half dozen sets of fork decals from them and they have all been great, they have done good color matches for me from just sending them pictures, with the Pantone# it will be perfect. I just got decals from them last week for my new Ripley but it was a stealth set so no match required.

  23. #2223
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    Slikgraphics.com does GREAT work with decals. They matched my Ripley perfectly after I gave them the Pantone #. Give Owen a shout and tell him you want Ripley decals like Brian's. They're way better than some of the other ones I've tried.
    Could you post some pictures of the decals they did for you?
    Thank you.

  24. #2224
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinibis View Post
    Could you post some pictures of the decals they did for you?
    Thank you.
    If you donít want to take their word for it, then donít. Have you ever heard of Google search?

  25. #2225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicane32 View Post
    If you donít want to take their word for it, then donít. Have you ever heard of Google search?
    What a pointless and needlessly adversarial post. Heís not doubting them; heís just asking to see pictures of the setup heís interested in.

  26. #2226
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonlong724 View Post
    What a pointless and needlessly adversarial post. Heís not doubting them; heís just asking to see pictures of the setup heís interested in.
    That's it.

  27. #2227
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    Anyone riding on the traction tune with the Fox fork and shock? Wondering what the reviews are with the new tune.

  28. #2228
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    Hi guys. Just got my Ripley frame. I see INVISIFRAME don't do a kit for the Ripley V4 yet. I think a few people have used the Ripmo kits and said its ok. Is this correct. How much trimming etc is required?

  29. #2229
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    idk, but i have a matte Ripmo kit for sale fairly cheap if you want to try it.

  30. #2230
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Hi guys. Just got my Ripley frame. I see INVISIFRAME don't do a kit for the Ripley V4 yet. I think a few people have used the Ripmo kits and said its ok. Is this correct. How much trimming etc is required?
    About 70% of the Ripmo kit fit. I have to trim the downtube and top tube. Maybe a few other pieces.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  31. #2231
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    I got one from a different company that was perfect, I think Ride Wrap iirc?

  32. #2232
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    Which one is better out of ride real and invisiframe?

  33. #2233
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    Ridewrap is terrible compared to Invisiframe.

  34. #2234
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Hi guys. Just got my Ripley frame. I see INVISIFRAME don't do a kit for the Ripley V4 yet.
    Quote Originally Posted by sg10 View Post
    I got one from a different company that was perfect, I think Ride Wrap iirc?
    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Which one is better out of ride real and invisiframe?
    Indeed, Ride Wrap has a Ripley v4 specific kit but Invisiframe is widely considered the best protection kit. Unfortunately, they don't have a v4 kit yet ... and seem to be taking their sweet time getting one out.

  35. #2235
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Which one is better out of ride real and invisiframe?
    I have an XL ride-wrap available cheap. PM me if interested.

  36. #2236
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt.s67 View Post
    Ridewrap is terrible compared to Invisiframe.
    Do tell

  37. #2237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Peepers View Post
    I'm strongly considering the Ripley as my next bike, but have seen some posts about it running small. I'm 6'3" with average proportions for this height. Do any of you think the XL would feel too small for me?

    Looking at the geo numbers and sizing guide on Ibis' website, it seems like I should be fine. I'm currently on an XL 2017 Specialized Camber, which feels good to me.
    I'm also 6'-3" and the Ripley fits me perfect. 50mm stem and Ibis 30mm rise carbon bars. In fact it is one of the best "fitting" bikes I've rode.

  38. #2238
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    True

  39. #2239
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot45 View Post
    I'm also 6'-3" and the Ripley fits me perfect. 50mm stem and Ibis 30mm rise carbon bars. In fact it is one of the best "fitting" bikes I've rode.
    Good to hear. Your response seems to match the others that replied. I'll likely be getting one ordered through my LBS.

    Thanks for the input everyone.

  40. #2240
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    FYI, Fanatikbike.com has an XL in stock....

  41. #2241
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    I haven't had any issues with my ridewrap installed on my large black v4 frame a couple months ago. Have about 350 miles on it. Earlier in this thread I posted images of it post install.

    Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

  42. #2242
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    Hello, I need help urgently!!!!!
    Today I was tightening the rear axle wheel of my Ripley 4 and suddenly I heared a loud "clack". I unscrewed the axle and two thin treads fell down. I have overtightened. Now the axle doesn't tight, it spins freely. What can I do? Will it be enough with a treading tap?
    Which is the thread pitch of the Ripley 4 rear axle?
    Thank ypou.

  43. #2243
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    Did you confirm if the threads in the frame or damaged or threads on the axle?


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  44. #2244
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    It is in the frame. The axle seems to be ok

  45. #2245
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinibis View Post
    It is in the frame. The axle seems to be ok
    Ugh, that sucks. That's new swingarm time. Unless Ibis has some way to replace that insert, or try a Timesert or Heli-coil. Thread is M12x1.5

  46. #2246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    Ugh, that sucks. That's new swingarm time. Unless Ibis has some way to replace that insert, or try a Timesert or Heli-coil. Thread is M12x1.5
    I thought about Helicoil, but the question is if the insert is thick enough to drill it and make a new thread to insert the Helicoil

  47. #2247
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinibis View Post
    I thought about Helicoil, but the question is if the insert is thick enough to drill it and make a new thread to insert the Helicoil
    I'd call Ibis

  48. #2248
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinibis View Post
    I thought about Helicoil, but the question is if the insert is thick enough to drill it and make a new thread to insert the Helicoil
    Yeah, that's why I like Timeserts, if the old insert is thin the Timesert could be bonded in and the strength of the new threads won't be affected. But definitely see what Ibis can do first. If you are stuck buying a new swingarm, repair may be worth a shot.

  49. #2249
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    Imho, call Ibis first, if it require a whole triangle take it to a machine shop before doing any helicoil at home.

  50. #2250
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    Yes, I emailed Ibis. Waiting....

  51. #2251
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    While I wait for Ibis answer I am looking for more options, apart from helicoil or timesert, maybe a longer axle with a nut, such as this from Shimano:
    https://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Thru-Axl...BOOST-Outboard

    It is 177mm long, Ibis axle I think is 171mm, so the Shimano axle would protude 6mm or so and could be tightened with the nut.

  52. #2252
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinibis View Post
    While I wait for Ibis answer I am looking for more options, apart from helicoil or timesert, maybe a longer axle with a nut, such as this from Shimano:
    https://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Thru-Axl...BOOST-Outboard

    It is 177mm long, Ibis axle I think is 171mm, so the Shimano axle would protude 6mm or so and could be tightened with the nut.
    i feel your pain. i did similar when i got my HD3 frame. took it apart to install clear protection, and upon assembling rear triangle back to front, i screwed upper front triangle pivot bolt in cross threaded. i damaged the threads and the bolt. had to drill it out and while doing so messed the threads even more. ibis suggested helicoil but i was worried about the wall thickness of insert after drilling, so as first option i just tried to re-thread with tap. fortunately that ended up working, i guess there was enough material left, and i was able to tighten the bolt properly, had years of fun, and even forget about it up until now .

  53. #2253
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    Just ordered a Ripley, NX build, in size XL. Can anybody here tell me how many fork steerer tube spacers are normally included in Ibisí factory builds? Iím hoping there are something like 40 mm which I imagine would be enough for me to adjust the handlebar height.

  54. #2254
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    Probably not that many, but theyíre super easy to get at any bike shop.


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  55. #2255
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    ^Sorry about my bad english. I meant as in how long they will leave the steerer tube

  56. #2256
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    Iíve seen a few people mention that Ibis bikes come to dealers as a frame and a box of parts. Not what you normally see, which is that the bikes are mostly assembled and just require final assembly and adjustment. If thatís the case, it may be up to your shop to determine how long to cut the steerer.

    If anyone can speak to this, thatíd be great. Iím planning on ordering a Ripley and would actually prefer to take it home in the box and build it up myself.

  57. #2257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panttaani View Post
    Just ordered a Ripley, NX build, in size XL. Can anybody here tell me how many fork steerer tube spacers are normally included in Ibisí factory builds? Iím hoping there are something like 40 mm which I imagine would be enough for me to adjust the handlebar height.
    Considering most fork manufacturers say no more than 30mm of spacers, I seriously doubt a bike company is going to put 40mm on it.

    Straight from Fox:
    "6. Install the fork on to the bicycle. Install any steerer stem spacers (no more than 30mm), the stem, stem cap and M6 stem cap bolt on to the bicycle. Lightly tighten the stem cap bolt so that the fork turns freely without drag or free play.
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

  58. #2258
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    I also used the Ride Wrap Kit and it has been flawless. I had an invisiframe on my last bike (Pivot Mach 5.5) and I felt they were similar quality and coverage.

  59. #2259
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    Invisiframe now have the kits for the v4 up on their website in M and L

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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Considering most fork manufacturers say no more than 30mm of spacers, I seriously doubt a bike company is going to put 40mm on it.

    Straight from Fox:
    "6. Install the fork on to the bicycle. Install any steerer stem spacers (no more than 30mm), the stem, stem cap and M6 stem cap bolt on to the bicycle. Lightly tighten the stem cap bolt so that the fork turns freely without drag or free play.
    My Ripley size L came with 25mm of spacers. Also, they are probably cutting the steerer tubes at the factory. At least, that's what they did in the Santa Cruz factory video.

  61. #2261
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiddyHitch View Post
    My Ripley size L came with 25mm of spacers. Also, they are probably cutting the steerer tubes at the factory. At least, that's what they did in the Santa Cruz factory video.
    I've built many Ibis bikes and the build kits always come with a brand new, uncut fork.

  62. #2262
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt.s67 View Post
    I've built many Ibis bikes and the build kits always come with a brand new, uncut fork.
    Ah, interesting. I have obviously never built one. Ha.

  63. #2263
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    Ride wrap worked for me. Be ready to put some time though, extremely detailed!

  64. #2264
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    Is anyone having serious problems with durability of the Schlawbe NN and HD? I have already had to replace two tires on my new V4 and just discovered another hole too large for the sealant to seal. I do not ride anything that should be puncturing these tires that quickly, mainly dirt and roots.

    I rode on a pair of Specialized Ground Control's for over two years and well over 500 miles on the same exact trails and never had a problem!

  65. #2265
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    Schlawbe tires are fast rolling and offer decent grip, but they are not durable. It you live where there are sharp rocks they will self destruct in short order. It's a function of their lightweight casing and thin rubber. This is one of the main reasons I switched to Maxxis after 10+ years on Schlawbe. I miss the speed but not the flats.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Is anyone having serious problems with durability of the Schlawbe NN and HD? I have already had to replace two tires on my new V4 and just discovered another hole too large for the sealant to seal. I do not ride anything that should be puncturing these tires that quickly, mainly dirt and roots.

    I rode on a pair of Specialized Ground Control's for over two years and well over 500 miles on the same exact trails and never had a problem!
    That's the main complaint about Schwalbes in general - low durability with a high price tag.

    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    Schlawbe tires are fast rolling and offer decent grip, but they are not durable. It you live where there are sharp rocks they will self destruct in short order. It's a function of their lightweight casing and thin rubber. This is one of the main reasons I switched to Maxxis after 10+ years on Schlawbe. I miss the speed but not the flats.
    I'm still trying to figure out what the Maxxis equivalent of the Nobby Nic is - any suggestions? Rekon? Aggressor? Dissector?

  67. #2267
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiddyHitch View Post
    That's the main complaint about Schwalbes in general - low durability with a high price tag.



    I'm still trying to figure out what the Maxxis equivalent of the Nobby Nic is - any suggestions? Rekon? Aggressor? Dissector?
    I was about to ask the same thing! Overall I like the tires, so an equivalent Maxxis would be great!

  68. #2268
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    I was about to ask the same thing! Overall I like the tires, so an equivalent Maxxis would be great!
    Probably the Forekaster

  69. #2269
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    Nothing wrong with good ol' set of Ardents if not chunky. I'm running the HD / NN combo on my new Ripley and am a bit worried, grip is great, but don't want flats, only have 25 miles on them so far. My Ripmo has DHR/DHF and my Pivot has DHR/Aggressor combo. Only 1 flat in 3 years on the Maxxiss and I've ridden a ton of places and terrain.
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  70. #2270
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    Quote Originally Posted by fillyo View Post
    Nothing wrong with good ol' set of Ardents if not chunky. I'm running the HD / NN combo on my new Ripley and am a bit worried, grip is great, but don't want flats, only have 25 miles on them so far. My Ripmo has DHR/DHF and my Pivot has DHR/Aggressor combo. Only 1 flat in 3 years on the Maxxiss and I've ridden a ton of places and terrain.
    Yeah, I am torn between the Ardent and the Rekon to replace the NN and HD. I want something that doesn't inhibit my climbing, but capable on the way down. Any suggestion?

  71. #2271
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Yeah, I am torn between the Ardent and the Rekon to replace the NN and HD. I want something that doesn't inhibit my climbing, but capable on the way down. Any suggestion?
    I went from HD/NN which I never gelled with to a Dissector/Rekon and then Dissector / Dissector on my Ripley and am real happy with them. Great for lose over hard in NorCal.




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  72. #2272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shane_CA View Post
    I went from HD/NN which I never gelled with to a Dissector/Rekon and then Dissector / Dissector on my Ripley and am real happy with them. Great for lose over hard in NorCal.
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yeah those treads look sweet. I should have specified I am in the Southeast, so our conditions vary like crazy. Sometimes extremely dry, sometimes wet. Not sure how those would hold up in wetter conditions. Any experience on them in wetter conditions?

  73. #2273
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Yeah those treads look sweet. I should have specified I am in the Southeast, so our conditions vary like crazy. Sometimes extremely dry, sometimes wet. Not sure how those would hold up in wetter conditions. Any experience on them in wetter conditions?
    Unfortunately no wet condition experience. NorCal is drier than dry right now. Curious myself how it does with mud.


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  74. #2274
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Yeah those treads look sweet. I should have specified I am in the Southeast, so our conditions vary like crazy. Sometimes extremely dry, sometimes wet. Not sure how those would hold up in wetter conditions. Any experience on them in wetter conditions?
    I run Recon front and rear in Florida and North Carolina, either 2.6 or 2.3 depending on how sandy. Work great and roll fast.

  75. #2275
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    does recon 2.6 max terra really only weight 780g?

  76. #2276
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    does recon 2.6 max terra really only weight 780g?
    From my experience with 2.25, the weight is very close - 670g claimed and I have 650g and 670g tires. There is always manufacturing differences of 5%. I would say 780g is going to be close.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Sent from the singletrack...

  77. #2277
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertVelo View Post
    From my experience with 2.25, the weight is very close - 670g claimed and I have 650g and 670g tires. There is always manufacturing differences of 5%. I would say 780g is going to be close.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    I am only wondering because 2.4 size in same flavor lists higher weigght than 2.6 one.

  78. #2278
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Yeah, I am torn between the Ardent and the Rekon to replace the NN and HD. I want something that doesn't inhibit my climbing, but capable on the way down. Any suggestion?
    Iíve been spending way too much time reading through Maxxis tire threads here and there seems to be a general consensus that the Ardent Race works better than the Ardent, much to everyoneís surprise. Again, no first hand knowledge on my part.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shane_CA View Post
    I went from HD/NN which I never gelled with to a Dissector/Rekon and then Dissector / Dissector on my Ripley and am real happy with them. Great for lose over hard in NorCal.
    Was there a noticeable increase in drag going from the Rekon to the Dissector in the rear? How do they compare to the NN in that terrain (Iím in the Bay Area)?

  79. #2279
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiddyHitch View Post
    Iíve been spending way too much time reading through Maxxis tire threads here and there seems to be a general consensus that the Ardent Race works better than the Ardent, much to everyoneís surprise. Again, no first hand knowledge on my part.



    Was there a noticeable increase in drag going from the Rekon to the Dissector in the rear? How do they compare to the NN in that terrain (Iím in the Bay Area)?
    No I didnít see any noticeable increase in drag going from the Rekon to the Dissector. Itís a fast tire.

    I really prefer the Dissector over the NN. Both are fast tires but the Dissector brakes a lot better.

    Iím also running a Dissector as a rear with an Assegai up front on my big bike. Moved to that from a DHF / Aggressor combo.



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  80. #2280
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    does recon 2.6 max terra really only weight 780g?

    mine was 800gr

  81. #2281
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    Looking to pick up a NX build. What parts would be on your list to swap out over time? Thinking of swapping out the NX cassette and brakes with some REI gift cards I have.

  82. #2282
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Yeah, I am torn between the Ardent and the Rekon to replace the NN and HD. I want something that doesn't inhibit my climbing, but capable on the way down. Any suggestion?
    I ran 2.4 Ardent front and Ikon (crossmark prior) rear for many years. Running 2.6 Rekon front and Ikon rear now and great combo everywhere (southeast). Rekon is a much better all around tire than the Ardent.

    I agree Maxxis tires wear like iron and are incredibly puncture resistant!

  83. #2283
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29ftw View Post
    I ran 2.4 Ardent front and Ikon (crossmark prior) rear for many years. Running 2.6 Rekon front and Ikon rear now and great combo everywhere (southeast). Rekon is a much better all around tire than the Ardent.

    I agree Maxxis tires wear like iron and are incredibly puncture resistant!
    Thanks for the info! Sounds like the Rekon might be the ticket. Just out of curiosity, are you running the Ikon in the rear for faster rolling? How is the breaking with the Ikon in the rear? Trying to decide if I should go with Rekon front and rear, or Ikon/Rekon combo. TIA!

  84. #2284
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Thanks for the info! Sounds like the Rekon might be the ticket. Just out of curiosity, are you running the Ikon in the rear for faster rolling? How is the breaking with the Ikon in the rear? Trying to decide if I should go with Rekon front and rear, or Ikon/Rekon combo. TIA!
    The Ikon is really fast rolling. I think I may try the Rekon 2.4 in the back next though. It should be "fast enough" given how well the 2.6 rolls

  85. #2285
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    I am only wondering because 2.4 size in same flavor lists higher weigght than 2.6 one.
    the 2.4 is 60 tpi, the 2.6 is 120tpi. They weigh about the same.

  86. #2286
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    Looking to pick up a NX build. What parts would be on your list to swap out over time? Thinking of swapping out the NX cassette and brakes with some REI gift cards I have.
    I've got the NX build and am curious what would be the lightest SRAM cassette that is compatable with the OEM/shimano freehub? The NX is a boat anchor..

  87. #2287
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    All other sram cassettes need the XD driver. You could use shimano, but they need the MS driver. Garbaruk and e*thirteen also uses the XD driver.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  88. #2288
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    All other sram cassettes need the XD driver. You could use shimano, but they need the MS driver. Garbaruk and e*thirteen also uses the XD driver.
    Thanks, man. I've got dt350 hubs so maybe should just upgrade the driver as well

  89. #2289
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    Answer to the question how they are shipped-

    Yes they come completely unbuilt, only thing installed is shock, kit is separate depending on build, fork is uncut.

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    Need shorter bolts to mount XT caliper to the adaptor for a 203mm shimano rotor ?

    Quote Originally Posted by gigero View Post
    No worries.
    Depends on what fork you're using. But, if it's the Fox 34 then you'll need a 160mm post to 203 rotor adaptor.

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F2...-Brake-Adapter

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    With the SM-MA-F203P/P adaptor to use the 203mm rotor, did you have to source some shorter bolts to mount the caliper to this adaptor?

    I have a 180mm rotor & my XT brakes are currently mounted to the fox 34 using 2 long bolts that go through the caliper, the 180mm adapter (SM-MA-F180P/P2) & into the fork posts.

    it seems the 160 to 180 adaptor (SM-MA-F180P/P2) has holes for long bolts that go through caliper, adapter & into fork. The 160 to 203 adaptor (SM-MA-F203P/P) appears to have separate holes for mounting adaptor to fork & then caliper to adaptor.

    To go up to 203mm with the SM-MA-F203P/P adaptor, it looks like the short bolts the adaptor come with are used to mount the adapter to the fork posts. Then, with this SM-MA-F203P/P adaptor, it looks like the caliper is mounted to a separate set of holes in the adaptor & those holes look like they'll need short bolts - shorter than the onces currently mounting my XT caliper to the 180mm adapter. below are links to images of the adaptors on jenson and a PDF showing the different adapters.

    160 to 203: https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F2...tm_medium=AVLK

    160 to 180: https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F1...-Brake-Adaptor

    shimano-disc-mount-adapters_EV-SM-MA-5155.pdf
    Last edited by nebio; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:43 AM.

  91. #2291
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    Quote Originally Posted by nebio View Post
    With the SM-MA-F203P/P adaptor to use the 203mm rotor, did you have to source some shorter screws to mount the caliper to this adaptor?

    shimano-disc-mount-adapters_EV-SM-MA-5155.pdf
    Yes, you'll need short bolts to attach the caliper to the adapter.

    I had the bolts leftover from previous builds. They should be easily purchased/or given to you from a bike shop.

  92. #2292
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    Yes. You need shorter bolts. 2 to mount the adapter, that it should come with and 2 to mount the caliper to the adapter.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  93. #2293
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    What water bottle cage are you using in this picture (Ripley)? Thanks.

  94. #2294
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    Any other opinions on 130 vs 140mm forks?

    Can't decide between that and the Pike or Fox 34.

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    fox is 5mm shorter on paper, but the pike most likely inherently will run a little more sag. the charger 2.1 damper in the pike is really good if you dont need/want a lockout. i'd vote pike, and alot of folks are running them on ripleys i believe.

    140 is fine on this bike b/c the BB is pretty low out of the box. just depends on your terrain.

  96. #2296
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    Quote Originally Posted by j0dan View Post
    Any other opinions on 130 vs 140mm forks?

    Can't decide between that and the Pike or Fox 34.
    MRP Ribbon SL if you are sticking with 130 or less. Stoked on mine so far. Feels way better than any Fox 34 I have run.

  97. #2297
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    Quote Originally Posted by j0dan View Post
    Any other opinions on 130 vs 140mm forks?

    Can't decide between that and the Pike or Fox 34.
    Dvo sapphire 34 140mm. Best fork Iíve ever used

  98. #2298
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    MRP Ribbon SL if you are sticking with 130 or less. Stoked on mine so far. Feels way better than any Fox 34 I have run.
    Wow. that's a really nice option.. and I didn't need more of them!

    Bit disappointed that the ShockWiz isn't compatible with the Ribbon's ramp control cartridge.

  99. #2299
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    counterpoint. the Ribbon is a bit spikey when ridden aggressively, and i'd take the supple negative spring of the RS over the ramp control or neg spring adjustability of the ribbon. they have supposedly updated some of the internals to reduce stiction, but keep in mind that the damper isn't tunable. it's characteristics are pretty much set outside of what the LSC dial gives you. you have to fiddle with poppet valve spring weight and oil weight to eek out any improvements.

    the RS just works.

    i hate rooting for team sram, but that's been my experience.

  100. #2300
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    All my Ribbons felt great at first, but my 130SL, 160, and even coil 160 had serious stiction issues after 10-20 hours of use. WAS impressed, but would not recommend them at all anymore.
    Ibis Ripmo
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  101. #2301
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    I run the pike ultimate in 140 and is great

  102. #2302
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    Quote Originally Posted by rafa300 View Post
    I run the pike ultimate in 140 and is great
    My experience exactly. It's supple off the top, good midstroke support, and works well all way to the limits of the V4 rear suspension.

  103. #2303
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    Quote Originally Posted by pking View Post
    My experience exactly. It's supple off the top, good midstroke support, and works well all way to the limits of the V4 rear suspension.
    Quote Originally Posted by rafa300 View Post
    I run the pike ultimate in 140 and is great
    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    i'd vote pike, and alot of folks are running them on ripleys i believe.

    140 is fine on this bike b/c the BB is pretty low out of the box. just depends on your terrain.
    Well that looks like the Pike is a clear winner here. Wish I could demo a Pike, but all the bikes I've tried only have Fox 34's.

    Thanks for all the advice.

    I want the most performance on the way up but when going down I usually keep it slow and like it on the firmer side to pop off small hits but want to be able to smooth out the chundery/rock garden bits without killing my (weak) wrists.

  104. #2304
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    no prob. and if you REALLY want to dial it in, send it to dougal (mtbr username) at Shockcraft. He does magic work.

  105. #2305
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Thanks for the info! Sounds like the Rekon might be the ticket. Just out of curiosity, are you running the Ikon in the rear for faster rolling? How is the breaking with the Ikon in the rear? Trying to decide if I should go with Rekon front and rear, or Ikon/Rekon combo. TIA!
    I ran the Ardent F/Rekon R combo for the first half of the year riding in both AL and FL. No flats or punctures and no issues with traction in multiple conditions.
    So many trails, so little time.

    2019 Santa Cruz 5010 C S, 140/130

  106. #2306
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    no prob. and if you REALLY want to dial it in, send it to dougal (mtbr username) at Shockcraft. He does magic work.
    Or you could get the Push upgrade for it that's not magic and has empirical data to backup all of the changes and exactly what the changes are.
    https://www.pushindustries.com/products/hc-97
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  107. #2307
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    Hey All, curious if you can help me. I have been trying to decide on my next bike for a while and have it narrowed down to the V4 Ripley and SB130. I live in Richmond, VA and plan to take this bike to the mountains more often next year, potentially even Pisgah 1 or 2 times.

    I am leaning toward the Ripley as I think the SB130 is a bit too much bike for my daily riding, but do like jumps, drops, etc. I even considered changing to a 140 fork. Curious if anyone is in the VA area and has experience. Thanks!

  108. #2308
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerjw View Post
    Hey All, curious if you can help me. I have been trying to decide on my next bike for a while and have it narrowed down to the V4 Ripley and SB130. I live in Richmond, VA and plan to take this bike to the mountains more often next year, potentially even Pisgah 1 or 2 times.

    I am leaning toward the Ripley as I think the SB130 is a bit too much bike for my daily riding, but do like jumps, drops, etc. I even considered changing to a 140 fork. Curious if anyone is in the VA area and has experience. Thanks!
    We have both bikes in the family (ripley4 for me & sb130 for my wife). In front Range, CO so no help for VA experience.... We were both coming off 15 to 20year old specialized FSR bikes so we probably don't have as much of a nuanced view of the ripley & sb130 compared to other riders here. Anyting modern feels amazing compared to our old bikes.

    The ripley4 feels to both of us like a more efficient climber. To us, The SB130 definitely feels more plush downhill & inspires a lot of confidence going down. The ripley still feels great downhill & feels poppier to me. super Fun to jump off little things with the ripley & feels easier to get into the air than the SB130. Ripley4 has not felt overwhelmed by the occasional 3' drops I've tried. the SB130 feels like it can plow through stuff with less concern for picking just the right line. It handles the same drops in what feels like a cushier way. The SB130 also climbs very well but the ripley just feels great in how it seems to want to continue to accelerate.

  109. #2309
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerjw View Post
    Hey All, curious if you can help me. I have been trying to decide on my next bike for a while and have it narrowed down to the V4 Ripley and SB130. I live in Richmond, VA and plan to take this bike to the mountains more often next year, potentially even Pisgah 1 or 2 times.

    I am leaning toward the Ripley as I think the SB130 is a bit too much bike for my daily riding, but do like jumps, drops, etc. I even considered changing to a 140 fork. Curious if anyone is in the VA area and has experience. Thanks!
    split the difference and go Ripmo. I'm serious.

  110. #2310
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    Really? I just can't imagine slugging that much bike around my daily trails. I have talked to some people on SB130 who say it is a tad much for Richmond so I feel like a Ripmo would be even more.

  111. #2311
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerjw View Post
    Hey All, curious if you can help me. I have been trying to decide on my next bike for a while and have it narrowed down to the V4 Ripley and SB130. I live in Richmond, VA and plan to take this bike to the mountains more often next year, potentially even Pisgah 1 or 2 times.

    I am leaning toward the Ripley as I think the SB130 is a bit too much bike for my daily riding, but do like jumps, drops, etc. I even considered changing to a 140 fork. Curious if anyone is in the VA area and has experience. Thanks!
    Fwiw, I rented a Ripley V4 in Harrisonburg from Shenandoah Bicycle. I took it over to Massanuttenís Western slope. I enjoyed pedaling it up hill and bombing back down while soaking up those big rocks. Unfamiliar with the trails and running from a storm kept me from doing more, drops, jumps, etc. Well worth the coin for the test ride.

    After the ride I ordered one and I am waiting. I fully expect it will rock Pocahontas, Buttermilk (et all) and my local Williamsburg trails very well. Should efficient enough for our pedally trails while leaving me enough bike for the mountains.

    Highly recommend renting for the day.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2019 Ibis Ripley V4-b7138e22-cd4e-476d-be41-4a4cfe56f065.jpeg  

    Last edited by mpowers; 1 Week Ago at 10:15 PM.

  112. #2312
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerjw View Post
    Really? I just can't imagine slugging that much bike around my daily trails. I have talked to some people on SB130 who say it is a tad much for Richmond so I feel like a Ripmo would be even more.
    Ripmo has a less aggressive head angle than the SB130.
    It's a shorter bike vis a vis the same size in the SB130.
    It weighs less than the 130.
    It pedals as well as the 130.


    You can put an inline shock on it and a 150 Pike and have a pretty sick little trail bike that is only marginally heavier and only marginally less efficient than the Ripley (if you're worried about the Ripley not being adequate or flexible enough)

  113. #2313
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    Thanks for the feedback. This is excellent. I have actually stopped in to that shop and they have one in my size on the way so I am going to go test it out. I ride Pocahontas and JRPS nearly everyday so this is really helpful.

  114. #2314
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    Interesting, I hadn't thought about this actually. It would be cool (but expensive) to have a second fork that would allow me to get the most out of it in different areas.

  115. #2315
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    awesome. they run a bit smaller than they look on paper fyi. enjoy.

  116. #2316
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    Got my v4 this week. Size Large, 28.5lbs. on my scale with pedals.

    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-58d55547-1536-41a5-8635-3cc705294316.jpg
    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-58f8d69a-c15e-4e18-ae41-0302baa8beec.jpg
    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-a2976dfc-92f1-459a-bb57-76fe1849dd22.jpg
    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-054bb4c6-29ae-4388-ad8a-82d4aebc34ce.jpg
    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-1d2c5597-07a2-43b3-a935-c9464b033b8e.jpg
    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-42b19581-7fcb-4f25-87ee-496f341fa33d.jpg

    Iíve been on a Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc the past six years. The SC is a touch lighter at 27.9 lbs., but other than weight so far the Ripley is better or equal to the SC on pretty much any criterion I can think of. Iíve only been on two rides so far though, so Iíll hold off on any grand pronouncements until I have more saddle time. Very pleased in the early going though.

    • Frame Ibis Ripley Gen 4 - Large
    • Rear Shock Fox Float DPS EVOL Factory
    • Fork Rock Shox Pike Ultimate RC2 140mm
    • Headset Cane Creek 40 Series
    • Wheelset Ibis S35 Carbon Rims - Industry Nine Hydra Hubs - DT Swiss Competition Spokes
    • Crankset Race Face Next SL Cranks w/ 28T Race Face Cinch NW DM Chainring
    • Bottom Bracket Chris King Threadfit
    • Pedals Crank Brothers Stamp 7
    • Cassette Sram XG-1299 XX1 Eagle 10-50T
    • Chain Sram PC XX1 Eagle
    • Rear Derailleur Sram XX1 Eagle AXS
    • Shifter Sram AXS Controller
    • Brakes Sram G2 Ultimate w/ 180mm Sram Centerline X Rotors
    • Tires Schwalbe Nobby Nic Apex TLE Addix SpeedGrip 2.6"
    • Seatpost Rock Shox Reverb AXS 170mm
    • Seat WTB Rocket Team Ti
    • Stem Enve M7 35 / 35mm
    • Handlebar Deity Skywire Carbon 800 / 15mm
    • Grips Deity Knuckleduster (Replaced with Ergonomic GA3)

  117. #2317
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    almost porsche acid green. needs a DVO shock to complete the build maybe. or a Deluxe Ultimate with decals. nice.

  118. #2318
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    @contemplating, great combination of parts and awesome colors. Good weight as well. Some folks have been getting the weight down to 25lbs with pedals. It seems hard to find where to save a whopping 3.5lbs off what you have put together.

  119. #2319
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    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    @contemplating, great combination of parts and awesome colors. Good weight as well. Some folks have been getting the weight down to 25lbs with pedals. It seems hard to find where to save a whopping 3.5lbs off what you have put together.
    Yeah, seems most large are in the 28# range with pedals. Might lose another 1/2# with different tires.

  120. #2320
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    Quote Originally Posted by contemplating View Post
    Got my v4 this week. Size Large, 28.5lbs. on my scale with pedals.

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    Iíve been on a Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc the past six years. The SC is a touch lighter at 27.9 lbs., but other than weight so far the Ripley is better or equal to the SC on pretty much any criterion I can think of. Iíve only been on two rides so far though, so Iíll hold off on any grand pronouncements until I have more saddle time. Very pleased in the early going though.

    • Frame Ibis Ripley Gen 4 - Large
    • Rear Shock Fox Float DPS EVOL Factory
    • Fork Rock Shox Pike Ultimate RC2 140mm
    • Headset Cane Creek 40 Series
    • Wheelset Ibis S35 Carbon Rims - Industry Nine Hydra Hubs - DT Swiss Competition Spokes
    • Crankset Race Face Next SL Cranks w/ 28T Race Face Cinch NW DM Chainring
    • Bottom Bracket Chris King Threadfit
    • Pedals Crank Brothers Stamp 7
    • Cassette Sram XG-1299 XX1 Eagle 10-50T
    • Chain Sram PC XX1 Eagle
    • Rear Derailleur Sram XX1 Eagle AXS
    • Shifter Sram AXS Controller
    • Brakes Sram G2 Ultimate w/ 180mm Sram Centerline X Rotors
    • Tires Schwalbe Nobby Nic Apex TLE Addix SpeedGrip 2.6"
    • Seatpost Rock Shox Reverb AXS 170mm
    • Seat WTB Rocket Team Ti
    • Stem Enve M7 35 / 35mm
    • Handlebar Deity Skywire Carbon 800 / 15mm
    • Grips Deity Knuckleduster (Replaced with Ergonomic GA3)
    Nice! I would have expected that build to be a bit lighter though. Is your scale a Park? If so, then your actual weight is likely.75 to 1 lb less. (Park scales are inaccurate heavy.) Beautiful bike!

  121. #2321
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    Anyone know what amount of head and seat tube angle changes there would be when changing from a 130 to 140mm fork?

    Half a degree. More?

  122. #2322
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    Quote Originally Posted by j0dan View Post
    Anyone know what amount of head and seat tube angle changes there would be when changing from a 130 to 140mm fork?

    Half a degree. More?
    Yep. Bout half a degree.
    Ibis Ripmo
    Ibis Ripley V4
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  123. #2323
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    Here's my build:
    Large GX
    DVO Sapphire 34 set to 140mm (love this fork so far!)
    Avy tuned Float DPS
    RF Next R carbon wheelset
    Bontrager XR4 2.6, XR3 2.4 tires
    Bike Yoke 185 dropper
    XT brakes 180/180 rotors
    Ibis carbon bars
    Ergon grips
    RF Chester pedals
    Stikrd decals

    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-20191106_161301.jpg
    Last edited by Tronner; 1 Week Ago at 10:24 AM.

  124. #2324
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    Sweet ride.

  125. #2325
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    Hi, does anybody know what is the max oval chainring size for Ripley 4?
    Thank you

  126. #2326
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    Can I put an Oval chainring on my bike?
    Yes, the max size oval chainring we recommend is a 32T. Not all oval chainrings are the same, so we recommend double checking clearance before installation.

  127. #2327
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    Ok. Thank you

  128. #2328
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinibis View Post
    Hi, does anybody know what is the max oval chainring size for Ripley 4?
    Thank you
    i run absolute black oval 32 and it fits fine. 34 would prob be too big

  129. #2329
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    Has anybody tried 34t oval?

  130. #2330
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    You guys are killing me with these builds!!! Gonna make me write checks!

    I'm 200-205 lbs nekked on any given week. Currently riding an '18 Jeffsy AL 27.5 with an MRP Ribbon coil and Super Deluxe. I just got back into riding a little over a year ago. I'm 52 years old, rode dirt bikes in the woods for years. Anyway, with a year under my belt I feel like I've got into this groove of doing longer rides, adventure rides, climbing doesn't suck anymore. I will still let it loose through some rocks, but I'm not going to be doing any big drops or airs. Climbing the tech stuff and picking my way down through some ledges, etc. The Ribbon has been enough to keep me going in the right direction most of the time. And not using all of my travel 99% of the time so feeling like a shorter travel bike is in order.

    All that said, I guess I'm still feeling like I should be doing a Fox 36 or perhaps the Pike at my weight? I was chasing plushness back when I added the Ribbon Coil. Since then I've gotten faster and more aggressive and liking the feel of some of the air forks I've ridden lately. My Jeffsy came with a Rhythm, absolute garbage, so that's really all I know. I'm definitely a suspension tinker'er and no matter how fast I think I am, I'm not that fast and comfort is still quite important. I saw Fanatik has Fox 36 140mm option on their website for a frameset purchase...which is what I'll do. I'm certainly open to other suspension suggestion.

  131. #2331
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    For those of you with the matte black frames, howís the durability of the paint so far? I think it looks great, but Iím tempted to go with the gloss blue just for the ease of cleaning and not showing scratches and scuffs as much.

    My last two motorcycles have had matte finishes, and theyíve held up extremely well, but theyíre not subject to the same kind of abuse that a mountain bike would be.

  132. #2332
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonlong724 View Post
    For those of you with the matte black frames, howís the durability of the paint so far? I think it looks great, but Iím tempted to go with the gloss blue just for the ease of cleaning and not showing scratches and scuffs as much.

    My last two motorcycles have had matte finishes, and theyíve held up extremely well, but theyíre not subject to the same kind of abuse that a mountain bike would be.
    Get invisiframe and then ride right through cactuses.

  133. #2333
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerjw View Post
    Hey All, curious if you can help me. I have been trying to decide on my next bike for a while and have it narrowed down to the V4 Ripley and SB130. I live in Richmond, VA and plan to take this bike to the mountains more often next year, potentially even Pisgah 1 or 2 times.

    I am leaning toward the Ripley as I think the SB130 is a bit too much bike for my daily riding, but do like jumps, drops, etc. I even considered changing to a 140 fork. Curious if anyone is in the VA area and has experience. Thanks!
    Hey Tyler, I am in East TN and have a V4. I absolutely love it and it rides all of the trails around here without a problem. I also have 4, 20-30 mile days in Pisgah on it and it crushes out there. I am not sending anything too big, but for those long days out there it is perfect for me. Climbs so well!!!!

    I was also between the V4 and SB130, and decided the SB130 was just too much for the riding I do in the southern Appalachians.

  134. #2334
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Hey Tyler, I am in East TN and have a V4. I absolutely love it and it rides all of the trails around here without a problem. I also have 4, 20-30 mile days in Pisgah on it and it crushes out there. I am not sending anything too big, but for those long days out there it is perfect for me. Climbs so well!!!!

    I was also between the V4 and SB130, and decided the SB130 was just too much for the riding I do in the southern Appalachians.
    how much you weigh??

  135. #2335
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    I also have 4, 20-30 mile days in Pisgah on it and it crushes out there. I am not sending anything too big, but for those long days out there it is perfect for me. Climbs so well!!!!
    My experience riding the V4 in Pisgah as well. Perfect bike IMO.

  136. #2336
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    I run a dvo diamond on mine. Very plush.

  137. #2337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    how much you weigh??
    Depends on how many beers I had that day, but ~185 with gear/water.

  138. #2338
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    does it climb or descend better than the rollik?

  139. #2339
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    Quote Originally Posted by imabeast7 View Post
    does it climb or descend better than the rollik?
    its not a fair comparison but i will say yes. i never owned rollik, but have demoed it maybe 10 times (i live 5 minutes from Spot HQ) and i owned mayhem for roughly 1 season. when i compare rollik to HD3 that would be more apples to apples and HD3 is way better bike. i still own HD3 but have not ridden it since i got V4. Ripley is faster, smoother and more stable on everything except very rough and steep climbs and very rough and fast descends. this type of terrain consists maybe 20% of my riding and ripley can still handle it fine, but there is obviously limits to how much you can do with 120mm. if i was riding this terrain more, i would most likely be on ripmo.

  140. #2340
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    Hey All,

    Another bike-dilemma/question. I am currently on a newer Transition Smuggler, my first full suspension after years on a Chromag hardtail.

    I like the bike, it does everything pretty good and love it when it's pointed downhill but I feel it leaves some to be desired on the climbs and flatter sections. I'm wondering if the Ripley will be a massive difference to the Smuggler given their similar geometry and suspension travel. I realize Horst vs DW is significant but don't have a reference how big these differences are in real life, I assume Ripley climbs better but what does it give up on downhill and vice versa (it's all a compromise I'm sure..).

    I'm a solid intermediate rider, usually prefer natural trails/tech over flow, nothing super gnarly and not big into gap jumps, massive hucks, etc. Local trails are typical Pacific Northwest, rocky, rooty, usually wet

    I think there's a few people here with some time on the Smuggler and would love to hear comparisons. I've seen some Ripmo vs Smuggler threads but strangely not many people comparing to the Ripley. And yes, I should demo one to be sure, but living on an island and traveling a ton has made that a bit challenging..

    Thanks All!

  141. #2341
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    i demoed smuggler last year and really liked it. i was actually thinking about getting one but ended up getting deal on mayhem. it ended up being a mistake but thats a different story. anyways, i actually felt the smuggler was decent climber but i flicked the shock to trail mode. with ripley i just run open the whole time. also with smuggler i believe there was limited rear tire clearance which is not an issue with ripley. thats all i can tell you, it was just short demo ride on smuggler, but i left quite impressed.

  142. #2342
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    im assuming your saying the Ripley is faster etc than your hd3.
    gotta say your the first person ive seen say a comparable bike climbs and descends better than a spot mayhem/rollik

  143. #2343
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    i demoed smuggler last year and really liked it. i was actually thinking about getting one but ended up getting deal on mayhem. it ended up being a mistake but thats a different story. anyways, i actually felt the smuggler was decent climber but i flicked the shock to trail mode. with ripley i just run open the whole time. also with smuggler i believe there was limited rear tire clearance which is not an issue with ripley. thats all i can tell you, it was just short demo ride on smuggler, but i left quite impressed.
    That's good feedback, thanks. I think I struggle mainly with my lack of comparison, maybe the Smuggler is a great climber in this class of bike and I'm just making unrealistic comparisons to my hardtail. Not sure if the Ripley would solve that..
    Do you have any thoughts on comparing the 2 bikes descending or was your demo not quite long enough?

  144. #2344
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    I demo'd both a Ripley and a Smuggler at Outerbike this fall and really liked both of them. The ride time was not extensive, but I still got a decent feel for the bikes. The Ripley was my favorite of any bike I tried because of how well it would suit the riding I do the most. It really does feel great climbing. It did feel a bit harsh though and I was having to shake my hands out on the latter part of the 3 hr ride, but some adjustments could improve that (140mm fork, different grips, maybe wider tires).

    The Smuggler actually has a similar personality to the Ripley. I didn't do a lot of climbing on it but it felt fine. It felt glued turning and going down. With the way it was set up for my ride, it had the edge over the Ripley going down, but the adjustments to the Ripley I mentioned would close that gap. The Ripley was very precise steering, which I enjoy and I think that makes for a great riding experience on the less techy trails. They are both great bikes and I think I'd be happy owning either.
    Last edited by bizango; 4 Days Ago at 07:13 AM.

  145. #2345
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    I've been asking myself the same question, been on an SBG Smuggler for the past year but wanting something slightly more XC oriented for the riding I do while not giving up a ton in the downhill capability and the Ripley came on my radar. Haven't demo'ed a Ripley yet but got a pretty good summary from a back and forth with a writer at the Crankjoy website.

    Basically, he noted that out the box the spec makes a big difference, fork/tires/etc. He said the Ripley is a lighter bike with slightly more efficient pedaling while the Transition Smuggler feels plusher throughout its travel.

    https://crankjoy.com/modern-geometry-overhyped/

    Hoping to get on a Ripley to demo in the near future and see if there is a big difference!

  146. #2346
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    Quote Originally Posted by michel77 View Post
    That's good feedback, thanks. I think I struggle mainly with my lack of comparison, maybe the Smuggler is a great climber in this class of bike and I'm just making unrealistic comparisons to my hardtail. Not sure if the Ripley would solve that..
    Do you have any thoughts on comparing the 2 bikes descending or was your demo not quite long enough?
    it was a while back, i was in market for new 29er a that time and smuggler ended up being my favorite bike of all i demoed. i probably demoed 20 of them, including ripmo, scott spark and genius, trek fuel, sentinel, mayhem, stompjumper, alchemy arktos, instinct...

  147. #2347
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    Quote Originally Posted by escrowdog View Post
    You guys are killing me with these builds!!! Gonna make me write checks!

    I'm 200-205 lbs nekked on any given week. Currently riding an '18 Jeffsy AL 27.5 with an MRP Ribbon coil and Super Deluxe. I just got back into riding a little over a year ago. I'm 52 years old, rode dirt bikes in the woods for years. Anyway, with a year under my belt I feel like I've got into this groove of doing longer rides, adventure rides, climbing doesn't suck anymore. I will still let it loose through some rocks, but I'm not going to be doing any big drops or airs. Climbing the tech stuff and picking my way down through some ledges, etc. The Ribbon has been enough to keep me going in the right direction most of the time. And not using all of my travel 99% of the time so feeling like a shorter travel bike is in order.

    All that said, I guess I'm still feeling like I should be doing a Fox 36 or perhaps the Pike at my weight? I was chasing plushness back when I added the Ribbon Coil. Since then I've gotten faster and more aggressive and liking the feel of some of the air forks I've ridden lately. My Jeffsy came with a Rhythm, absolute garbage, so that's really all I know. I'm definitely a suspension tinker'er and no matter how fast I think I am, I'm not that fast and comfort is still quite important. I saw Fanatik has Fox 36 140mm option on their website for a frameset purchase...which is what I'll do. I'm certainly open to other suspension suggestion.
    I think the 36 is overkill and making the Ripley into something its not. I'm about your size and went with the Pike Ultimate at 140mm and LOVE IT. This is from someone who always hated Pikes and preferred Fox. Rockshox really nailed it with the new Pikes. Stiff, supple, great support. I'm very impressed. I romp my Ripley pretty hard here in Vegas with a lot of guys riding enduro bikes and now with the Pike I don't want for a bigger bike at all.

  148. #2348
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    Quote Originally Posted by bizango View Post
    I demo'd both a Ripley and a Smuggler at Outerbike this fall and really liked both of them. The ride time was not extensive, but I still got a decent feel for the bikes. The Ripley was my favorite of any bike I tried because of how well it would suite the riding I do the most. It really does feel great climbing. It did feel a bit harsh though and I was having to shake my hands out on the latter part of the 3 hr ride, but some adjustments could improve that (140mm fork, different grips, maybe wider tires).

    The Smuggler actually has a similar personality to the Ripley. I didn't do a lot of climbing on it but it felt fine. It felt glued turning and going down. With the way it was set up for my ride, it had the edge over the Ripley going down, but the adjustments to the Ripley I mentioned would close that gap. The Ripley was very precise steering, which I enjoy and I think that makes for a great riding experience on the less techy trails. They are both great bikes and I think I'd be happy owning either.
    Thanks for the detailed write-up, good info, thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by EastFallsShredSquad View Post
    I've been asking myself the same question, been on an SBG Smuggler for the past year but wanting something slightly more XC oriented for the riding I do while not giving up a ton in the downhill capability and the Ripley came on my radar. Haven't demo'ed a Ripley yet but got a pretty good summary from a back and forth with a writer at the Crankjoy website.

    Basically, he noted that out the box the spec makes a big difference, fork/tires/etc. He said the Ripley is a lighter bike with slightly more efficient pedaling while the Transition Smuggler feels plusher throughout its travel.

    https://crankjoy.com/modern-geometry-overhyped/

    Hoping to get on a Ripley to demo in the near future and see if there is a big difference!
    Thanks, would be good to hear your feedback once you had a chance to demo the Ripley

  149. #2349
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    Quote Originally Posted by bizango View Post
    I demo'd both a Ripley and a Smuggler at Outerbike this fall and really liked both of them. The ride time was not extensive, but I still got a decent feel for the bikes. The Ripley was my favorite of any bike I tried because of how well it would suite the riding I do the most. It really does feel great climbing. It did feel a bit harsh though and I was having to shake my hands out on the latter part of the 3 hr ride, but some adjustments could improve that (140mm fork, different grips, maybe wider tires).

    The Smuggler actually has a similar personality to the Ripley. I didn't do a lot of climbing on it but it felt fine. It felt glued turning and going down. With the way it was set up for my ride, it had the edge over the Ripley going down, but the adjustments to the Ripley I mentioned would close that gap. The Ripley was very precise steering, which I enjoy and I think that makes for a great riding experience on the less techy trails. They are both great bikes and I think I'd be happy owning either.
    Quote Originally Posted by EastFallsShredSquad View Post
    I've been asking myself the same question, been on an SBG Smuggler for the past year but wanting something slightly more XC oriented for the riding I do while not giving up a ton in the downhill capability and the Ripley came on my radar. Haven't demo'ed a Ripley yet but got a pretty good summary from a back and forth with a writer at the Crankjoy website.

    Basically, he noted that out the box the spec makes a big difference, fork/tires/etc. He said the Ripley is a lighter bike with slightly more efficient pedaling while the Transition Smuggler feels plusher throughout its travel.

    https://crankjoy.com/modern-geometry-overhyped/

    Hoping to get on a Ripley to demo in the near future and see if there is a big difference!
    Just to tag on, that was a good article and your comments at the end perfectly captured my dilemma so Chad's comments in turn were super helpful!

  150. #2350
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot45 View Post
    I think the 36 is overkill and making the Ripley into something its not. I'm about your size and went with the Pike Ultimate at 140mm and LOVE IT. This is from someone who always hated Pikes and preferred Fox. Rockshox really nailed it with the new Pikes. Stiff, supple, great support. I'm very impressed. I romp my Ripley pretty hard here in Vegas with a lot of guys riding enduro bikes and now with the Pike I don't want for a bigger bike at all.
    That's great info! I don't have any experience on Rockshox forks, only the Super Deluxe shock...which fits my needs and style perfectly. Really wish there was something besides Fox available with a factory frameset. Although the new valving for the Ripley sounds like they addressed some things. Back to the fork, the RS appears to be a little lighter than the 36 as well. And agree, I need to fight making this bike something it's not. Sucks it's definitely not demo season anymore. I really need to get out and ride some of these bikes!

  151. #2351
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradwin2 View Post
    Nice! I would have expected that build to be a bit lighter though. Is your scale a Park? If so, then your actual weight is likely.75 to 1 lb less. (Park scales are inaccurate heavy.) Beautiful bike!
    My scale is the fairly ubiquitous Feedback Sports Alpine Digital Scale.

    2019 Ibis Ripley V4-img_20191105_112315%7E2.jpg

    The weight is complete with pedals, because that's how I prefer to ride the bike

    FWIW the shop weighed my bike at 28.7lbs.

  152. #2352
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    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    @contemplating, great combination of parts and awesome colors. Good weight as well. Some folks have been getting the weight down to 25lbs with pedals. It seems hard to find where to save a whopping 3.5lbs off what you have put together.
    I have no idea how anybody would get these down to 25lbs. for a size large. There's not a lot to be taken out of my build. Narrower rims, bladed spokes, reduced spoke count, lighter fork, minimalist seat, narrower bars, lighter brakes, smaller rotors, alloy nipples, lighter hubs, minimalist saddle, etc.; sure, you can chip away in all these areas, but my quick back-of-a-napkin calculations say it's going to be really tough to come up with 3.5lbs.

    Not that the lowest possible weight is everything anyway, I'm not trading in my wide tires for anything -- you can pry my 2.6s from my cold dead hands

  153. #2353
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    almost porsche acid green. needs a DVO shock to complete the build maybe. or a Deluxe Ultimate with decals. nice.
    How to explain to the wife/CFO that my new "no expense spared dream build" already needs an upgrade...

    ...nah, I want to live to enjoy the bike :-)

  154. #2354
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    Quote Originally Posted by contemplating View Post
    I have no idea how anybody would get these down to 25lbs. for a size large. There's not a lot to be taken out of my build. Narrower rims, bladed spokes, reduced spoke count, lighter fork, minimalist seat, narrower bars, lighter brakes, smaller rotors, alloy nipples, lighter hubs, minimalist saddle, etc.; sure, you can chip away in all these areas, but my quick back-of-a-napkin calculations say it's going to be really tough to come up with 3.5lbs.

    Not that the lowest possible weight is everything anyway, I'm not trading in my wide tires for anything -- you can pry my 2.6s from my cold dead hands
    Mine is not a weight weenie build, everything was on a budget, but my large V4 is 25 pounds. FWIW, I'm 160 pounds, Cat 1 XC type, never have mechanical DNF.

    Brakes: XTR Race 160 rear, switch between 180 and 160 front
    Fox Factory 130 fork
    Wheels: custom built, 1450 grams, 32H, alloy nips, 28mm inner Chinese carbon rims, Sapim, DT350 rear, lightweight no-name front hub. Cost about $700 set, been on 3 bikes, no issues over the years.
    Drivetrain: xtr 12sp trigger, X01 cassette, GX chain, Praxis LYFT carbon crank with 32T
    Brand X dropper which is lighter than my Fox Transfer
    Ti 143mm saddle, Eggbeater ti spindles, 760mm carbon bars, lightweight 40mm stem (ebay), foam grips, tires vary from 630g Fast Trak Gripton 2.3 front to several 700g Vittoria Mezcal or Barzo, and sometimes a beefy DHF 2.3

    So nothing crazy boutique or expensive other than the cranks. Also have XX1 DUB crank/bb combo, but it's about the same weight.

    Heaviest build with the DHF, esi grips (install for vacations to the likes of St. George for extra weeklong comfort) and 180 front rotor is about 27 pounds.

  155. #2355
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    Quote Originally Posted by danK View Post
    Mine is not a weight weenie build, everything was on a budget, but my large V4 is 25 pounds. FWIW, I'm 160 pounds, Cat 1 XC type, never have mechanical DNF.

    Brakes: XTR Race 160 rear, switch between 180 and 160 front
    Fox Factory 130 fork
    Wheels: custom built, 1450 grams, 32H, alloy nips, 28mm inner Chinese carbon rims, Sapim, DT350 rear, lightweight no-name front hub. Cost about $700 set, been on 3 bikes, no issues over the years.
    Drivetrain: xtr 12sp trigger, X01 cassette, GX chain, Praxis LYFT carbon crank with 32T
    Brand X dropper which is lighter than my Fox Transfer
    Ti 143mm saddle, Eggbeater ti spindles, 760mm carbon bars, lightweight 40mm stem (ebay), foam grips, tires vary from 630g Fast Trak Gripton 2.3 front to several 700g Vittoria Mezcal or Barzo, and sometimes a beefy DHF 2.3

    So nothing crazy boutique or expensive other than the cranks. Also have XX1 DUB crank/bb combo, but it's about the same weight.

    Heaviest build with the DHF, esi grips (install for vacations to the likes of St. George for extra weeklong comfort) and 180 front rotor is about 27 pounds.
    Wow, so it can be done! Sounds like the biggest gains are in the wheelset (The Griptons alone are 1.2 lbs. lighter than my Nooby Nics) and pedals (claimed 179g for Ti Eggbeaters!!!)

  156. #2356
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    Quote Originally Posted by danK View Post
    Wheels: custom built, 1450 grams, 32H, alloy nips, 28mm inner Chinese carbon rims, Sapim, DT350 rear, lightweight no-name front hub. Cost about $700 set, been on 3 bikes, no issues over the years.
    You building these yourself? Of is there someplace you can direct me to for a set?

  157. #2357
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    Quote Originally Posted by escrowdog View Post
    You building these yourself? Of is there someplace you can direct me to for a set?
    I too would be interested in how to get a set of these wheels. Do they handle seating tubeless tires etc pretty effortlessly?

  158. #2358
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    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    I too would be interested in how to get a set of these wheels. Do they handle seating tubeless tires etc pretty effortlessly?
    I used a local master wheelbuilder. I've had this set on 3 bikes. The spokes were from Dan's Comp before prices skyrocketed. Paid extra for alloy upgrade. The rims were from well-known Chinese seller having sale on ebay. Haven't checked in months, but they can be found for $125 when on sale. We snagged 4 so it was worth the shipping. Rear DT350 hub was huge discount eBay new in box, same as front hub. Builder charged $40 per wheel labor. I'm 160, builder said a 300 pound moron could ride them and still be reliable.

  159. #2359
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot45 View Post
    I think the 36 is overkill and making the Ripley into something its not. I'm about your size and went with the Pike Ultimate at 140mm and LOVE IT. This is from someone who always hated Pikes and preferred Fox. Rockshox really nailed it with the new Pikes. Stiff, supple, great support. I'm very impressed. I romp my Ripley pretty hard here in Vegas with a lot of guys riding enduro bikes and now with the Pike I don't want for a bigger bike at all.
    Alot of people bring this up and I dont quite understand it. So I'd love to hear what people mean by making it something its not or just by a ripmo.

    The way I see it going to 140mm with a fox 36 or all the way to a Ripmo are at least a little bit different.

    A. Fox 36
    140mm, will very slightly decrease the efficiency(10mm travel), and slightly change the handling characteristics (bb + hta change).

    The 36 will just change the stanchion size, resulting in slightly more weight, and slightly more stiffness in the fork

    B. Ripmo
    You now have a bike that is extremely similiar to a ripley geo wise and frame wise.

    However you do have an additional 20 travel in your fork and 25 in your shock(and likely a heavier duty shock), if I understand right this will result more travel to blow through at the expense of reduced efficiency.

    So is it not valid to take the

    120/140 burly fork bike

    over the

    145/160 burly shock and fork bike?


    Just trying to understand why everyone says that, as I really dont think I need that much travel in the midwest, and I don't like either of the Ripmo colors at all, however I am a decent sized guy (210 with kit) and do head to bentonville for some bigger riding 4-6 times a year. Thoughts/advice?

  160. #2360
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    I have ridden both bikes with the same set of tires/wheels. My Ripmo was a higher end build and was the same weight as the Ripley. The Ripley had a 140 fox 34.

    Both bike are amazing in the same way. Tires make more of a difference than travel.
    I time both of them on the same 1.2 mile climb and with the same average HR they had identical times.

    The Ripmo is a better choice is you want to put a 36 on it as it gives up almost nothing to the ripley in climbing performance. The ripmo is more versatile as a trail bike.

    The ripley is a better choice if you want a slightly lighter overall build with tire/brake setup to match. The Ripley could be a killer trail/marathon bike.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  161. #2361
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prof View Post
    Hey Tyler, I am in East TN and have a V4. I absolutely love it and it rides all of the trails around here without a problem. I also have 4, 20-30 mile days in Pisgah on it and it crushes out there. I am not sending anything too big, but for those long days out there it is perfect for me. Climbs so well!!!!

    I was also between the V4 and SB130, and decided the SB130 was just too much for the riding I do in the southern Appalachians.
    Thanks for the feedback. I'm thinking the same thing about the 130 here in Richmond although I demoed a Kona Process 134 last week and seemed to use up most of the rear travel riding my local trails. Still leaning heavily towards the Ripley with a 140 fork but it seems like I can't really go wrong.

  162. #2362
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot45 View Post
    I think the 36 is overkill and making the Ripley into something its not. I'm about your size and went with the Pike Ultimate at 140mm and LOVE IT. This is from someone who always hated Pikes and preferred Fox. Rockshox really nailed it with the new Pikes. Stiff, supple, great support. I'm very impressed. I romp my Ripley pretty hard here in Vegas with a lot of guys riding enduro bikes and now with the Pike I don't want for a bigger bike at all.
    I run a 140mm Fox 36 on my Ripley and it is really a good fit for a ~200 lb rider. Good stiffness and higher BB=win. Pisgah is my home trail system and its a damn near perfect bike with a 36 for this area.

    I do have a GG Smash also which is more equivalent to a Ripmo but I find myself on the Ripley most of the time for long miles in the mountains. Climbs way better and is plenty capable downhill with the 36 out front.

  163. #2363
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    Quote Originally Posted by escrowdog View Post
    You building these yourself? Of is there someplace you can direct me to for a set?
    you can get complete wheelset built from china. I have been using EIE for all my bike wheels, the price shipped to my door is around $600 per set of 29mmID asymmetrical with bladed spokes and bitex hubs. i have had 0 issues with these wheels so far in 3+ years of using on 3 of my bikes.

  164. #2364
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    Quote Originally Posted by contemplating View Post
    Wow, so it can be done! Sounds like the biggest gains are in the wheelset (The Griptons alone are 1.2 lbs. lighter than my Nooby Nics) and pedals (claimed 179g for Ti Eggbeaters!!!)
    can be done for sure. the way i do it i always get a cheapest build, in V4 case NX build, but i asked for gx cassette upgrade so i dont have to mess with shimano hub, plus 180 bike yoke. the source i buy my bikes throw this in for free. i then pretty much strip the shitty parts and sell on pinkbike and get better but slightly used parts. wheels i get new from EIE. it is fairly easy and cheap way to get your bike custom to where you want it.
    my ripley v4, size XL in blue, after selling all the crap components and stuf i wanted to replace and getting new/used components off pinkbike was just shy of 4k, weigths in 27.2lbs ready to ride including pedals. if you were to buy thi sbike new, prob 6-7k bike.

    also, a tip on getting light pedals cheap. i get pair of candy, cheapest ones are like 40 bucks, then google this guys who sells ti axles for them, american made, $60 per pair of ti axles, just swap axles and you have super light pedals for 100 bucks. the pair comes in at 240g vs candy 11 for $450 and weigh 249g.

  165. #2365
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavo View Post
    you can get complete wheelset built from china. I have been using EIE for all my bike wheels, the price shipped to my door is around $600 per set of 29mmID asymmetrical with bladed spokes and bitex hubs. i have had 0 issues with these wheels so far in 3+ years of using on 3 of my bikes.
    Looks like closer to $900 now for complete wheels, based on what I priced out on their site. With 350 hubs, flat blade spokes, micro spline hubs.

  166. #2366
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    Quote Originally Posted by rafa300 View Post
    I run the pike ultimate in 140 and is great
    Is your Pike 42 or 44 OS? Just got a v4 frame and kicking around fork options.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  167. #2367
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Is your Pike 42 or 44 OS? Just got a v4 frame and kicking around fork options.
    29Ē Pike only comes in 42 or 51.

  168. #2368
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    Quote Originally Posted by escrowdog View Post
    Looks like closer to $900 now for complete wheels, based on what I priced out on their site. With 350 hubs, flat blade spokes, micro spline hubs.
    I dont go through the website i deal with this "entity" called Pretty via email. you can negotiate a bit. 350 hubs are probably more than Bitex that i use on my wheels too.

  169. #2369
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelandk2 View Post
    Alot of people bring this up and I dont quite understand it. So I'd love to hear what people mean by making it something its not or just by a ripmo.

    The way I see it going to 140mm with a fox 36 or all the way to a Ripmo are at least a little bit different.

    A. Fox 36
    140mm, will very slightly decrease the efficiency(10mm travel), and slightly change the handling characteristics (bb + hta change).

    The 36 will just change the stanchion size, resulting in slightly more weight, and slightly more stiffness in the fork

    B. Ripmo
    You now have a bike that is extremely similiar to a ripley geo wise and frame wise.

    However you do have an additional 20 travel in your fork and 25 in your shock(and likely a heavier duty shock), if I understand right this will result more travel to blow through at the expense of reduced efficiency.

    So is it not valid to take the

    120/140 burly fork bike

    over the

    145/160 burly shock and fork bike?


    Just trying to understand why everyone says that, as I really dont think I need that much travel in the midwest, and I don't like either of the Ripmo colors at all, however I am a decent sized guy (210 with kit) and do head to bentonville for some bigger riding 4-6 times a year. Thoughts/advice?
    Ibis themselves have said that if you're planning to throw a Fox 36 and a DPX2 on a Ripley, you would be better off just getting a Ripmo since the frame weights between the two are not that different.

  170. #2370
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelandk2 View Post
    Just trying to understand why everyone says that, as I really dont think I need that much travel in the midwest, and I don't like either of the Ripmo colors at all, however I am a decent sized guy (210 with kit) and do head to bentonville for some bigger riding 4-6 times a year. Thoughts/advice?
    I say you do you man. I ride a Ripmo, but considered a V4 with a 140mm fork (i'd prob go Pike - save about 1/3 pound). But - if you like a 36, go for it! There is no reason not to do that. In fact, I'd even throw a DPX2 on a Ripley if the right size existed. The "why not go to a Ripmo" argument doesn't make sense to me. The answer is simply "cause I want a shorter travel bike".
    Honzo CR Radtail | Ripmo | RLT Steel Groadie

  171. #2371
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    Quote Originally Posted by VooDooBokor View Post
    I say you do you man. I ride a Ripmo, but considered a V4 with a 140mm fork (i'd prob go Pike - save about 1/3 pound). But - if you like a 36, go for it! There is no reason not to do that. In fact, I'd even throw a DPX2 on a Ripley if the right size existed. The "why not go to a Ripmo" argument doesn't make sense to me. The answer is simply "cause I want a shorter travel bike".
    I run a dpx2 on my Ripley ls. Itís a big improvement over the factory dpsi was using. Or use a dvo topaz3.

  172. #2372
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    Quote Originally Posted by VooDooBokor View Post
    I say you do you man. I ride a Ripmo, but considered a V4 with a 140mm fork (i'd prob go Pike - save about 1/3 pound). But - if you like a 36, go for it! There is no reason not to do that. In fact, I'd even throw a DPX2 on a Ripley if the right size existed. The "why not go to a Ripmo" argument doesn't make sense to me. The answer is simply "cause I want a shorter travel bike".
    Cant you just change the air spring in the Fox 34? I get that some like the pike more or want the 36 but this seems to be the most cost effective.

  173. #2373
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    I don't understand the logic of the 34 is good, Pike is better, but the 36...well you need to get a Ripmo. The new 36 grip2 is a great fork, and will make Ripley a better ride in any chunky terrain at speed and adds only about 8oz in weight. My new Ripley build goal is a 26lbs with a 36!!

  174. #2374
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCI View Post
    I don't understand the logic of the 34 is good, Pike is better, but the 36...well you need to get a Ripmo. The new 36 grip2 is a great fork, and will make Ripley a better ride in any chunky terrain at speed and adds only about 8oz in weight. My new Ripley build goal is a 26lbs with a 36!!
    I think I read the pike ultimate is ~2-3oz more than a stepcast 34. Assuming you're on a regular 34 factory, they're likely even closer.

    So you're looking at roughly 8oz, or half a pound for the 36? That's not nothing.

  175. #2375
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    Stepcast is only 120, so not a consideration for most Ripley buyers due to pedal strikes.
    Approx weights...
    Fox 34 = 1740g w/ Kabolt
    Pike Ult.= 1832g
    Fox 36 = 1956g w/ Kabolt

    So yes its a penalty, but if you live in rocky/rooty terrain I think it well worth it to get the Pike or 36.

  176. #2376
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    Good point on the SC34 @120.

  177. #2377
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    Quote Originally Posted by pctloper View Post
    Bike fit---XL
    Today I stopped at a local LBS and they had an XL which I rode around a paved trail and it felt way more comfortable with the extra inch of cockpit. So I need to go demo but the factory demo is closed till 11/1 so need to wait.
    Have you demoed the XL yet?

  178. #2378
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    racerlex-----In the end I passed after having ridden a few new geo bikes in xl I concluded I am most comfortable with a 460-470 reach and STA around 75. Bought a Pivot Trail 429 in large and have been pleased. I wanted to love the Ripley (new bright shiny object syndrome) and it is a great bike but just like the TB4 was not the best for me.
    The Pivot has the cockpit length I lacked on the Ripley no doubt due to the STA not being as steep.

    Good luck with the search

  179. #2379
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    Congrats on your new ride! I sat on a Large Ripley but felt slightly cramped in the reach. The local Ibis dealer doesnít stock XL so Iím stuck doing ďinternet demos.Ē

  180. #2380
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    Quote Originally Posted by RacerLex View Post
    Congrats on your new ride! I sat on a Large Ripley but felt slightly cramped in the reach. The local Ibis dealer doesnít stock XL so Iím stuck doing ďinternet demos.Ē
    How tall are you Lex? The overly steep STA angle on new bikes make a correctly sized bike feel kind of small. Sliding the seat all the way back will still give you a steep STA and great climbing, but will lengthen the cockpit. Even though the current trend is super short 35-50mm stems, a 60mm stem is still short and it is better to fit on the correct size vs sizing up and shortening the stem to match. This is especially true on the XL sized bikes. On a small you could go either way as the rear/front balance is better.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  181. #2381
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    I'm 6'0, 34" cycling inseam and 34/35 shirt sleeve length.

    I had this same fitment issue on the OG Hightower, Large frame. I slid the seat all the way back on the rails and went to a 60mm stem. It was the wrong bike to do that on because the seat tube angle is already slack to begin with. Also my seat was jacked up to the sky.

    I'm thinking an XL Ripley with a 140mm fork, 40mm stem, and seat forward on rails would be the right fit. I prefer to feel "in" the bike vs "on top of" the bike.

  182. #2382
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    At 6' you can go either way. If you want the longer bike, then the XL would be the better choice, but sliding the seat forward will put more weight on your hands and you will need to keep you bars lower to get weight on the front of the bike or the front tire won't have enough grip in flater corners. Also the slid forward seat will place you higher up with more handlebar drop.

    In a parking lot test the XL with the stock setup will fit better, but the large will ride better with your seat back and a longer stem. I think you would be better off on a large ripley because of it's short rear end.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  183. #2383
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    Quote Originally Posted by RacerLex View Post
    I'm 6'0, 34" cycling inseam and 34/35 shirt sleeve length.

    I had this same fitment issue on the OG Hightower, Large frame. I slid the seat all the way back on the rails and went to a 60mm stem. It was the wrong bike to do that on because the seat tube angle is already slack to begin with. Also my seat was jacked up to the sky.


    I'm thinking an XL Ripley with a 140mm fork, 40mm stem, and seat forward on rails would be the right fit. I prefer to feel "in" the bike vs "on top of" the bike.
    Iím the same size. Rode both large and xl. Large is much better in actual riding conditions in Pisgah forest trails.

  184. #2384
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    Quote Originally Posted by RacerLex View Post
    Congrats on your new ride! I sat on a Large Ripley but felt slightly cramped in the reach. The local Ibis dealer doesnít stock XL so Iím stuck doing ďinternet demos.Ē
    Where are you located? Perhaps someone here will let you throw a leg over theirs.

  185. #2385
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    I am 6' and originally went with a L....the same as all the others I've owned in the last 15 years. I couldn't demo and heard the comments of the tight cockpit but went for it as I figured the shorter bike would work better on the tight east coast trails I ride. Even with a 70mm stem and my seat slammed back it felt really small...like I measured it because I thought it was a medium. I ended up trading to a XL and it is definitely the right size for me. I'm using the stock 50mm stem and still have my seat back as far as the indicated seat marks. Saddle to bar it measures the same as my other large frames...a Trek Stache and Salsa Beargrease. It is definitely a long bike but I have no problems with slow speed stuff and tight switchbacks. The front end does feel a bit heavy, but I noticed the same thing on the L. Maybe I am just getting used to the slacker head tube and my weight being more centralized on the bike instead of over the rear wheel.

    In either case the bike is incredible...but at 6' I think it is worthwhile to find a demo.

  186. #2386
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    Quote Originally Posted by ej_92606 View Post
    where are you located? Perhaps someone here will let you throw a leg over theirs.
    Wash D.C.

  187. #2387
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    racerlex---I am your exact measurements and no way I could get used to a large--sta felt really odd--cockpit cramped-- and the pressure on my hands was not acceptable but your view could differ for sure--but I would agree you need to find a way to ride as it would be a costly error it you get the wrong size and there are more than a few folks on these forums who have had fit issues with this bike and/or had hand issues so make sure.

  188. #2388
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    2019 Ibis Ripley V4

    Post removed

  189. #2389
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    Youíre right, I really do need to demo before buying. It will likely be mid-to-late next year before a factory demo comes out my way. I donít think Ibis or even Santa Cruz did a factory demo in my area in 2019. Will have to be patient.

  190. #2390
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    What size riser are people using?

  191. #2391
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    What size riser are people using?
    Flat 770mm carbon with 9d sweep, 12mm spacer under a zero rise 40mm stem.
    Frame is large, rider is 178cm, XC background. Saddle pretty level, a little past center rails on dropper with no setback.

    I ran a 15mm rise on the same setup and even added a 3mm spacer. I found my climbing suffered and I had less weight on the front cornering.

    Risers, stem angle, spacers....it's all personal setup.

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