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Thread: 357 Nine update

  1. #1
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    357 Nine update

    Yesterday is the second real ride day I got, again up in Plattekill. I've been stepping the speed up a bit during which I did crash it, but I kept riding.

    The rear brake line is a problem; with the swingarm travel, the line was looping in towards the spokes, I tried nylon ties to the brake rod, but they didn't work out. I left it and kept repositioning the brake line after every run, until the line took a new turn, bending at the last line clip, and then I noticed the clip was wearing out the brake line cover and finally the clip was gone and now it seems to be the best way to leave it, with no clip. BUT I need a new brake line, WARRANTY JILL?

    The rear brakes are making a horrible loud howl, WTF???!!! Could it be that floating brake? I changed out the pads, no change. Should I do away with the floating brake JILL?

    The seat post clamp has got to go, it hooks my shorts and I get stuck at really bad moments. I'll get a bolt type.

    The rear shock (Metal) sounds like a squeeking mouse with every little bump. Why????

    Other that these few little bits, I really like the bike, but it is still faster than me. Oh, I stopped at the hospital on the way home and my thumb is fractured!!!!
    Can't wait to race next weekend.
    Last edited by Bawitdaba; 05-27-2007 at 04:41 PM.

  2. #2
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    Well I changed out and did away with the floating brake deal, and I tweeked the platform valve, so that seems better, we'll what happens when I ride next weekend.

  3. #3
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    Before and after pics. The brake rod was bending so that set-up had to go...luckily the drop out parts come with the bike, they must have known that some folks wouldn't want the floating brake deal...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
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    Howdy Bawitdaba,

    Sorry to hear about your thumb! One of the hazards of this sport....

    Anyhow, I have answered your PM's regarding this. Most people find that the floating brake arm just makes too much noise so they end up removing it. Before we made the decision to dicontinue the .357 bikes, the plan was to just not even spec the 2007 bikes with the arm since nobody was using it. The bikes work just fine without it.

    This is the first I've seen of the arm bending. You have my e-mail, so we can discuss getting you a replacement.

  5. #5
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    As usual, You're right on the ball, thanx Jill!!!

  6. #6
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    I have been riding mine with no floater and have felt little difference.

    My cable was doing the same thing as yours is. First off stop using the plastics cable holds and use small zip ties.
    Then just run all the zip ties loose not tight and the cable with slide with the frame as it absorbs bumps.

    Seatpost clamp was gone before I ever rode the bike, quick release is lame on a DH bike.

    Scrap the metal shock and get something better. I have the brand new swinger 6 way that came on my bike. PM I have no use for it.

    Jill, bring back the bike!!

  7. #7
    Unfit Norwegian
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    Exactly how do you remove the floating mechanism?

  8. #8
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    You simply un-bolt it all and remove it. However, to re-attach the rear brake caliper, you'll need to replace the floating disk drop-out with a solid drop out. The bikes come with the solid DO in the box; your dealer should give it to you when you buy the bike.

  9. #9
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    Ah, so your recommendation is just to get the bike set up/delivered with the solid DO, then?

  10. #10
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    I can't speak for Jill and Haro, but I certainly suggest it....I am engaged in dialog with Brian Berthold at Therapy Components to see if they can come up with something...

  11. #11
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    Come up with something for what? I thought the "problem" was solved with the floating dropout and arm removed and replaced with the solid dropout?

  12. #12
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    We're going to see if they can come up with a float system that works....

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dazed
    Ah, so your recommendation is just to get the bike set up/delivered with the solid DO, then?
    The bikes come assembled with the floating DO. Provided you can find a dealer that has a .357 (we have discontinued the .357's), be sure to ask them for the solid DO. You can have them swap it out for you however they may charge you a few bucks to so.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bawitdaba
    We're going to see if they can come up with a float system that works....
    Aha. What exactly is so nice about a floating caliper, btw?

  15. #15
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    It allows the brake caliper to "float" independent of the swing arm so brake jack that often plagues single pivot bikes can be minimized.

  16. #16
    Unfit Norwegian
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    I get the "float" part, but how does the swing arm travel affect braking on a bike with hydraulic brakes? (Remember; I've previously only owned hardtails.)

  17. #17
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    from the Brake Therapy site:


    Brake force is transmitted into the rear suspension, resulting in....

    *Suspension feels unresponsive while braking

    *Up to 50% loss of rear suspension travel

    *Brakes lock up and chatter over bumps

    *Rear end hops and bounces over bumps

    With a float system brake force is removed from the rear suspension, resulting in....

    *Suspension is free to respond to all bumps

    *Full suspension travel is used, even while braking

    *Rear brake offers much more stopping power

    *Rear tire follows terrain, increasing traction and control

  18. #18
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    I know a dealer here in Norway that has one in my size in stock, and I like the look of the bike. However: Im sceptical to these problems with the brake lines and the squealing rear brake. That would annoy the h3ll out of me.

    Should this be enough to put me off getting the bike, or will both the rear suspension and the brakes be fine with the solid DO? What's the best fix for the rear brake line? Lots and lots of semi-loose cable ties?

  19. #19
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    If you run the floating caliper, you will more than likely have brake noise and some chatter. I'll be honest with you and say most people did experience this and ended up just taking the damn thing off. In fact, if the 2007 bikes would have went into production, they were going to be spec'd without it.

    Regarding the brake lines, the best thing to do is zip tie them instead of using the clips. Zip tie them just tight enough to keep them in place, yet loose enough for the lines to be able to slide through a little bit. Issues with the brake lines crimping up happen sometimes when the lines are clipped or zip-tied too tight to your frame. The clips that come on the frames look really clean, but they don't allow for this movement.

  20. #20
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    Great. Thanks.

    I was just checking what time it is in California, and just as I found out that the business day was starting there, your reply was in the thread! Fantastic!

  21. #21
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    Does anyone know the rear shock eye to eye end stroke?

    Thanks in advance!

  22. #22
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    9.5x3.0

  23. #23
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    Thanks!

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