Page 11 of 11 FirstFirst ... 7891011
Results 1,001 to 1,072 of 1072
  1. #1001
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    40
    I just bought a used PH frame with the raw finish. Of course it looks pretty cool, but surface rust is a real issue. I suppose it could eventually turn into a structural problem. Some custom frame builders are hesitant to do raw finish for this reason. Not too much of a surprise that GG stopped offering this.
    Last edited by kapow!; 10-05-2018 at 12:12 PM.

  2. #1002
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    24
    Got 52 miles of singletrack in over the weekend. Fit was looking real good, and this thing is everything you guys have said it would be! Handles like a dream, hitting some decent sized drops, getting through rock gardens, and blasting down some flow.

    I haven't ridden a hardtail slacker than 69* and this makes a huge difference (that and 29x2.5" tires) on what I was able to tackle on the trail. Stoked to get some more miles on it this weekend as well. Might be goodbye to my Hightower LT for the season.

    The MRP Ribbon was worth the wait as well. Glad I had it built at 140mm!

  3. #1003
    mtbr member
    Reputation: C.A.S.H.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    75
    I canít get my photos to upload, but if anybody is curious I was able to put a 3Ē Highroller II on the rear with plenty of room to spare.
    The only reason I put it on is because the sidewall on my Rekon is shot and I havenít gotten a new tire yet.
    The HRII definitely hooks better than the Rekon on my trails, but I can tell a HUGE difference in pedaling effort with it on there.
    The more Marines I have around, the better I like it.
    -Wesley Clark

  4. #1004
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 6280's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    111
    I had 3Ē Nobby Nics on mine before I switched over to a 2.8Ē Minion DHF front and 2.8Ē Rekon in the rear. I instantly felt the difference in grip and roll. Huge improvement overall.
    Bring on the snow ⛄️


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #1005
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    Anyone running a reduced offset fork? I got a 29+ fork now, looking to go down to a 27+/29 with more travel, figured I could get two birds by getting a 42mm offset like I run on the Smash.
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  6. #1006
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Just assembled mine last night. Does anyone have a recommendation on grease vs anti-seize for the dropper post? It's super tight and difficult to slide in and out. I have to remove it to shorten the cable and I'm thinking about using grease instead of anti-seize.

  7. #1007
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Just assembled mine last night. Does anyone have a recommendation on grease vs anti-seize for the dropper post? It's super tight and difficult to slide in and out. I have to remove it to shorten the cable and I'm thinking about using grease instead of anti-seize.
    I had the same issue when I overhauled my dropper. I used Super Lube, hoping that the it's thinner consistency would help. It's still very difficult to adjust or remove.

    The tightness works out, sort of, because it makes it possible to use lower torque on the seat post clamp. This can help with some droppers that tend to get stuck short on return. In many cases this is caused not by a faulty return spring, but because a too-tight seat post clamp deforms the lower a teeny bit- the tolerances between the lower and the inner are very precise, so it doesn't take much to cause sticking, which will disappear, if it's the cause, when less torque is used on the clamp.

    One concern I have is this: Is anti-seize necessary to account for possible corrosive issues due to steel-aluminum contact? EDIT: A teeny bit of Googling shows that galvanic corrosion, resulting from electron exchange between dissimilar metals, is pretty much a non issue in the presence of grease and/or anodizing (and, of course, anti-seize compound). It's also a non-issue if the seat post is removed and cleaned with some sort of regularity, as in once or twice every few of years. (I'd do it more often, just to avoid the dreaded stuck post.) In any case, I couldn't find anything that suggested anti-seize was superior to grease for the purpose. The only advantage I could find was that being purpose-made, anti-seize is better at holding things in place while still preventing seizing.
    Last edited by yrrekr; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:26 AM.

  8. #1008
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Thanks. I'll try grease when I remove it later to shorten the cable.

  9. #1009
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Thanks. I'll try grease when I remove it later to shorten the cable.
    I dropped GG a line, and asked about seat post lube, cuz I need to know about this for my frame. I asked about Super Lube, specifically. They said to use anti-seize, but didn't say why. Guess I'd go with their recommendation... in order to avoid finding out why...

  10. #1010
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by yrrekr View Post
    I dropped GG a line, and asked about seat post lube, cuz I need to know about this for my frame. I asked about Super Lube, specifically. They said to use anti-seize, but didn't say why. Guess I'd go with their recommendation... in order to avoid finding out why...
    Dang, ok thanks. I haven't reinstalled it yet so that's good info to have.

  11. #1011
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    302
    The answer probably has to do with the bike being made from steel and not aluminum. I. E it could corrode.

  12. #1012
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    I found out that the seat tube wasn't just tight but that I physically can't insert my
    OneUp dropper more than 16cm into the seat tube(there's about 80mm sticking out). There's a lip where the top tube intersects the seat tube. I called GG and they said the seat tube can be honed out but I'm not sure how difficult that is or if any local shops know how to do that. Honestly, that's really annoying. I'm 6'5" with a 36" inseam but can't fit a 170mm dropper on this bike.

    Also, they have an option for a 185mm BikeYoke 185. If they intend for anyone with less than a 40" inseam to ride this bike then something is wrong with my seat tube.
    Last edited by jeremy3220; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:01 PM.

  13. #1013
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Large frame, One Up 170mm dropper inserts to within 20mm of the collar, fits just right for my 33Ē inseam and 165mm cranks.
    Did you have to hone the seat tube at all? Mine will only insert to within about 80mm of the collar on an XL frame.

  14. #1014
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    I found out that the seat tube wasn't just tight but that I physically can't insert my
    OneUp dropper more than 16cm into the seat tube(there's about 80mm sticking out). There's a lip where the top tube intersects the seat tube. I called GG and they said the seat tube can be honed out but I'm not sure how difficult that is or if any local shops know how to do that. Honestly, that's really annoying. I'm 6'5" with a 36" inseam but can't fit a 170mm dropper on this bike.

    Also, they have an option for a 185mm BikeYoke 185. If they intend for anyone with less than a 40" inseam to ride this bike then something is wrong with my seat tube.
    Yeah, GG seems to have a little issue with the seat tubes on Pedalheads- there are more than a few stories of super-tight tubes and points of interference at the top tube interface. Honing violates the warranty, unless you talk to GG about it and either convince them you're qualified to do it yourself or find a GG-agreed upon shop to do it.

    I can get my seatpost to fit me -- a KS eTeni 125mm on a med. frame, 33" inseam-- but it's "bottomed out" near the top tube, and fits REALLY tight, to boot. When I replace the dropper, I'll have to be VERY careful about the post, which is too bad; I'd like to go to 150mm drop, but I'm not sure I can find a dropper that'd fit.

    I have to twist the post a fair amount to get it to move, which is kind of a no-no for droppers. I'm considering honing, but haven't talked to GG about it yet.

    Guess I'm a little surprised GG hasn't solved this issue. I know they've also had the opposite issue on some frame, i.e. slipping posts, so they may be erring on the tight side of things. It's really the only thing I'm not quite happy with on what's otherwise a great frame.

  15. #1015
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Is honing really the proposed solution? I think a reamer might make more sense? The issue will be finding the right size.

  16. #1016
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by yrrekr View Post
    Yeah, GG seems to have a little issue with the seat tubes on Pedalheads- there are more than a few stories of super-tight tubes and points of interference at the top tube interface.
    The issue on mine is that there's a distinct change in internal diameter near the top tube. There's a clear line all the way around the inner circumference of the seat tube. I'm pretty sure if I had ordered the bike with a 170mm or 185mm dropper they would have reamed the seat tube further in. I think because the bike came specced with a 125mm dropper (I already had a 170mm OneUp to swap in) they didn't bother reaming it out all the way.

  17. #1017
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Is honing really the proposed solution? I think a reamer might make more sense? The issue will be finding the right size.
    Honing is more gentle, and takes less sophisticated tools (Honing tool and a drill). Reaming takes an expensive and very precise tool, and, I hear, it can be a bit sketchy if you don't have a really sharp precise tool and some prior experience. I guess it's pretty easy to do wrong or badly, especially on thin-walled frames. Many bike shops won't ream or hone at all.

    I've read that honing can be done pretty safely and cheaply at home because it can remove metal very gradually. But, it still needs to be done correctly to ensure an even bore. The nice thing, apparently, is that it takes no real precision- hone a bit, fit the post to monitor (gradual) progress, and repeat, stop while it's still a little tight.

  18. #1018
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    The issue on mine is that there's a distinct change in internal diameter near the top tube. There's a clear line all the way around the inner circumference of the seat tube. I'm pretty sure if I had ordered the bike with a 170mm or 185mm dropper they would have reamed the seat tube further in. I think because the bike came specced with a 125mm dropper (I already had a 170mm OneUp to swap in) they didn't bother reaming it out all the way.
    That's interesting. Mine doesn't have any sort of clear line. It just gets gradually tighter and tighter. Must be a fair amount of variance in internal tube diameter.

  19. #1019
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by yrrekr View Post
    That's interesting. Mine doesn't have any sort of clear line. It just gets gradually tighter and tighter. Must be a fair amount of variance in internal tube diameter.
    Yeah, mine has a distinct step in diameter like they only bored it out to that point.

  20. #1020
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    Mine was tight as hell, had to grease the shite outta the post and tube, but it went in and it's tight but will move with some effort. Tight is good as long as it doesn't get stuck ... stuck is very bad.

    Do they really ream the seat post tube? I'd be curious to know how they prep the tube.
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  21. #1021
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    Do they really ream the seat post tube? I'd be curious to know how they prep the tube.
    I found this on page 7...

    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa View Post
    Every frame has the seat tube reamed and checked before it leaves. The challenge here is NOT that we don't feel like spending 15 seconds to check something. If it was that easy, you'd never hear about it. Check the fit with a seat post? We used to do that on every frame, but since we paid a chunk of change to have a more precise checker tool machined that works better than just a dropper post. And it is used on every frame. We have a pile of reamers that are in use until they wear down 0.001", then they are thrown away and replaced. Even with that, there is still a small tolerance.
    Perfect? No. Always improving? Yes.

    The challenge is that a seat post to seat tube fit means you need a slip fit of 0.002" - 0.004" over a long distance. The seat tube ream itself has a tolerance of several thousandths of an inch, as does the seat post itself. You can see from this that some will naturally be tighter of a fit, and some will have a looser fit. We control ours to the tightest tolerance that is possible given the manufacturing technology available to us. This isn't a situation of frames slipping through the cracks, it's a situation of asking for an extremely tight fit tolerance, and with frame-only sales, we can't check your seat post fit ahead of time.

    On complete bikes, if the post to frame fit is tight, we hone it at assembly. But, if we simply reamed all of them larger, the complaint here would be that the fit is too loose.

    My seat tube is tight but will slide in fine until it reaches that step in diameter. It's not going any further than that. I'm pretty sure mine was just reamed 16cm in.

  22. #1022
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    52
    About two weeks ago I received my complete Pedalhead with a 160 Bike Yolk dropper. It came at the start of my work week.....and than I got shingles. Anyhow, I built it up last night and am kinda alarmed about just how tight that seat tube is: I can't seem to budge the post at all. Luckily it happens to be positioned perfectly, but my spidey senses tell me I should want to be able to move it.

  23. #1023
    I like goin' fast
    Reputation: Guerrilla Gravity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    45
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    The issue on mine is that there's a distinct change in internal diameter near the top tube. There's a clear line all the way around the inner circumference of the seat tube. I'm pretty sure if I had ordered the bike with a 170mm or 185mm dropper they would have reamed the seat tube further in. I think because the bike came specced with a 125mm dropper (I already had a 170mm OneUp to swap in) they didn't bother reaming it out all the way.
    Hey Jeremy, apologies for the fitment concerns with your OneUp post. We ream Pedalheads as far as we can for each frame size, not based off the dropper length ordered. This typically means reaming down to the top tube intersection with the seat-tube.

    With the bend in the seat-tube we find that most riders will run a size shorter dropper on a Pedalhead than they would on any of our full-suspension bikes (which are reamed to 240mm on every size except the XS). Most riders are limited to 125mm dropper posts on Pedalhead frames with the exception of riders who are sizing down to a smaller frame. 150mm externally routed dropper posts work for some riders depending on leg length since they don't require as much insertion depth as a stealth dropper. There are cable guides under the top-tube for external routing if you'd prefer this option.
    Guerrilla Gravity
    Badass bikes. Made for goin' fast. Handbuilt in Colorado.

  24. #1024
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrilla Gravity View Post
    Hey Jeremy, apologies for the fitment concerns with your OneUp post. We ream Pedalheads as far as we can for each frame size, not based off the dropper length ordered. This typically means reaming down to the top tube intersection with the seat-tube.

    With the bend in the seat-tube we find that most riders will run a size shorter dropper on a Pedalhead than they would on any of our full-suspension bikes (which are reamed to 240mm on every size except the XS). Most riders are limited to 125mm dropper posts on Pedalhead frames with the exception of riders who are sizing down to a smaller frame. 150mm externally routed dropper posts work for some riders depending on leg length since they don't require as much insertion depth as a stealth dropper. There are cable guides under the top-tube for external routing if you'd prefer this option.
    Any chance you have the insertion depth for each size frame available?

    I'm trying to find a dropper that works for me. I've tried a Specialized Command Post I had lying around, but even at 125mm I can't get a low enough seat height.

    ac

  25. #1025
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrilla Gravity View Post
    We ream Pedalheads as far as we can for each frame size, not based off the dropper length ordered. This typically means reaming down to the top tube intersection with the seat-tube.

    With the bend in the seat-tube we find that most riders will run a size shorter dropper on a Pedalhead than they would on any of our full-suspension bikes (which are reamed to 240mm on every size except the XS).
    So do you use a different reamer for the Pedalhead that only reaches 160mm? I'm not sure what you mean about the bend in the seat tube, it's about 6-8cm below the top tube intersection (on the XL at least). I'd have no problems if I could sink the dropper to the bend; I'd actually be able to run an even longer dropper if that was the case.

    I guess I'm just confused because some people (with shorter inseams) can fit 170mm droppers further into their Pedalhead seat tube. What is different about their bikes?

    You also offer up to 185mm droppers as an option for this bike. At 6'5" (36" inseam) I could run a 200mm dropper on my Hightower if I wanted. Who do you expect to run the 185mm dropper you offer with the Pedalhead? They'd need to have about a 39" inseam if they got my frame.

  26. #1026
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    I have a large pedalhead that fits a One Up 170mm dropper to within one inch of the maximum insertion. It was a PITA getting it inserted, but it was doable.

    I would have liked it to be easier, perhaps reaming the seat posts to the bend would be helpful?

    Even with a hardtail, most folks using droppers want to maximize the dropper length.
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  27. #1027
    Anytime. Anywhere.
    Reputation: Travis Bickle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,037
    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrilla Gravity View Post
    Hey Jeremy, apologies for the fitment concerns with your OneUp post. We ream Pedalheads as far as we can for each frame size, not based off the dropper length ordered. This typically means reaming down to the top tube intersection with the seat-tube.

    With the bend in the seat-tube we find that most riders will run a size shorter dropper on a Pedalhead than they would on any of our full-suspension bikes (which are reamed to 240mm on every size except the XS). Most riders are limited to 125mm dropper posts on Pedalhead frames with the exception of riders who are sizing down to a smaller frame. 150mm externally routed dropper posts work for some riders depending on leg length since they don't require as much insertion depth as a stealth dropper. There are cable guides under the top-tube for external routing if you'd prefer this option.
    I'm not sure why anyone woild want a shorter dropper on their hardtail. I ride my Moxie on all the same trails as I do my FS bike, and would not give up my 160mm Revives for anything, except a 185 Revive. The Pedalhead was one of the frames I had considered during my hardtail quest, but if I had known this it would have been off the list.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  28. #1028
    I like goin' fast
    Reputation: Guerrilla Gravity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    45
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Any chance you have the insertion depth for each size frame available?
    ac
    Depending on your leg length and frame size you might need to run a shorter dropper post than that. We've ordered 100mm droppers for shorter riders on smaller frames or worked out shorter cranks and pedals in order to make the bike fit properly with a 125 mm dropper.

    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    So do you use a different reamer for the Pedalhead that only reaches 160mm? I'm not sure what you mean about the bend in the seat tube, it's about 6-8cm below the top tube intersection (on the XL at least). I'd have no problems if I could sink the dropper to the bend; I'd actually be able to run an even longer dropper if that was the case.

    I guess I'm just confused because some people (with shorter inseams) can fit 170mm droppers further into their Pedalhead seat tube. What is different about their bikes?

    You also offer up to 185mm droppers as an option for this bike. At 6'5" (36" inseam) I could run a 200mm dropper on my Hightower if I wanted. Who do you expect to run the 185mm dropper you offer with the Pedalhead? They'd need to have about a 39" inseam if they got my frame.
    Dropper fit has to do with leg length, crank length, and pedal stack height. We have the longer droppers on the builder for people who might be able to run a longer post on a smaller frame.

    Each frame is reamed as deep as possible which is normally just below the top-tube junction with the seat-tube.

    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    I'm not sure why anyone woild want a shorter dropper on their hardtail. I ride my Moxie on all the same trails as I do my FS bike, and would not give up my 160mm Revives for anything, except a 185 Revive. The Pedalhead was one of the frames I had considered during my hardtail quest, but if I had known this it would have been off the list.
    This is in comparison to our full-suspension bikes which can fit incredibly long seatposts. Most riders end up running a size shorter dropper on a Pedalhead due to the bent seat-tube on the Pedalhead compared to the straight seat-tube on our full-suspension bikes. Agree on all points on the Revive, it's the best post out there!
    Guerrilla Gravity
    Badass bikes. Made for goin' fast. Handbuilt in Colorado.

  29. #1029
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrilla Gravity View Post


    Dropper fit has to do with leg length, crank length, and pedal stack height. We have the longer droppers on the builder for people who might be able to run a longer post on a smaller frame.

    Each frame is reamed as deep as possible which is normally just below the top-tube junction with the seat-tube.
    Taller people are the ones who need the taller droppers. People expect the bigger bikes to fit the longer droppers. Since the bend isn't the issue on the XL frames you really should get a longer reamer. Most people buying a progressive XL bike expect to fit at least a 170mm dropper and longer wouldn't be abnormal.

  30. #1030
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Little_twin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Taller people are the ones who need the taller droppers. People expect the bigger bikes to fit the longer droppers. Since the bend isn't the issue on the XL frames you really should get a longer reamer. Most people buying a progressive XL bike expect to fit at least a 170mm dropper and longer wouldn't be abnormal.
    It has nothing to do with the length of the reamer, it is about the location of the bend in the seat tube.

    People seem to have forgotten that in order to make bikes ride a certain way sacrifices need to be made, and that proper fit should always trump something trivial like dropper size.

    The biggest problem I see is that most people buying bikes are basing their decisions on the "expert opinions" of a bunch of strangers on the internet.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  31. #1031
    Anytime. Anywhere.
    Reputation: Travis Bickle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,037
    Dropper length is not trivial for me on some of the trail I take my hardtail down, and is not something I would compromise on.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  32. #1032
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by Little_twin View Post
    It has nothing to do with the length of the reamer, it is about the location of the bend in the seat tube.
    Nope, not on the XL frame. I have about 6cm more in my seat tube it could be reamed before the bend. GG even said it could be honed out further and offered to do it (I'm not local or I would take it to them).

    The biggest problem I see is that most people buying bikes are basing their decisions on the "expert opinions" of a bunch of strangers on the internet.
    You make a convincing argument stranger.

  33. #1033
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Little_twin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    477

    Guerrilla Gravity - Pedalhead

    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    Dropper length is not trivial for me on some of the trail I take my hardtail down, and is not something I would compromise on.
    Frame builders aren't building bikes so that YOU can fit the longest dropper available to mankind, they are building bikes that fit the masses.

    Debating the difficulty and steepness of your trails is not something I will engage in as it is pointless, I could tell you that I ride my fixed post xc bike down a local trail that drops 1700' in 1.2 miles, but how would you know if that's true, or how fast I do it.

    It also worth comparing the pedalhead to other similar bikes. Here is a comparison to a spot rocker. If you compare seat tube back you'll notice that the PH has a 1.5" lower standover and shorter chainstays. This doesn't come without some compromise and you don't have to be an engineer to figure out where that compromise is made.

    For the riders out there with freakishly short legs and crazy long torsos I am sorry you're just screwed and probably won't ever be able to get comfortably behind your bike, but for the rest of us I just don't see where slamming the seat damn near to the bb is a necessity, steep trails or not.

    A dropper post isn't like your pedals, bikes function just fine without one.

    Guerrilla Gravity - Pedalhead-img_7581.jpg

    Guerrilla Gravity - Pedalhead-img_7582.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  34. #1034
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    12,159
    ---
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  35. #1035
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Little_twin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Nope, not on the XL frame. I have about 6cm more in my seat tube it could be reamed before the bend. GG even said it could be honed out further and offered to do it (I'm not local or I would take it to them
    I've used both flex hones and bore hones to get clearance in frames where the weld or a water bottle boss protruded too far int to the seat tube to allow my post to pass. I would imagine it would be a little time consuming but likely would work in your situation. Both types of hones can be bought for around $20 and attached to any drill. Obviously you should clear this with GG.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  36. #1036
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    I am selling my 2018 Pedalhead Frame, sz Large, color is GG Black.

    Frame is in excellent condition.

    I'm selling to buy an FS XC frame for endurance racing and bikepacking.

    Also available:
    One Up 170mm dropper with One Up carbon dropper lever. Dropper inserts to the bend, ~ 1" of post base is exposed.
    Can Creek 40 headset.

    PM for details.
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  37. #1037
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    65
    Looking to possibly add a Pedalhead to my quiver of currently one. Right now, I'm on a Spot Rollik 557 which I friggin love but also am interested in having a 29/27.5+ option just because bikes are fun and variety is the spice of life. Ideally, I'd like a superlight sidekick to the Rollik but I don't have tons and tons of money to throw out. Just enough to have second bike (first world problems for sure). Anyways, if I was trying to keep the cost low, but the fun meter high, what first upgrade would ya'll make to the Ride 1 build? Ribbon fork? Bike yoke or oneup dropper? Lighter wheels? Lighter, stronger drivetrain? Would like to keep the price to 2500-2600 as i plan to buy a 27.5+ wheelset in addition to the stock 29 to use for the soft spring conditions here in Rifle, CO. Interested in anyone's opinion, thanks for taking time to respond. Cheers!

  38. #1038
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,763
    Quote Originally Posted by fids11 View Post
    Looking to possibly add a Pedalhead to my quiver of currently one. Right now, I'm on a Spot Rollik 557 which I friggin love but also am interested in having a 29/27.5+ option just because bikes are fun and variety is the spice of life. Ideally, I'd like a superlight sidekick to the Rollik but I don't have tons and tons of money to throw out. Just enough to have second bike (first world problems for sure). Anyways, if I was trying to keep the cost low, but the fun meter high, what first upgrade would ya'll make to the Ride 1 build? Ribbon fork? Bike yoke or oneup dropper? Lighter wheels? Lighter, stronger drivetrain? Would like to keep the price to 2500-2600 as i plan to buy a 27.5+ wheelset in addition to the stock 29 to use for the soft spring conditions here in Rifle, CO. Interested in anyone's opinion, thanks for taking time to respond. Cheers!
    If you're tall, a dropper. You can get a replacement Pike air shaft for ~$40 if you want to try 130/140 fork. I went econo when I ordered my Smash, but upgraded the bar and crank (happy in retrospect). My PH presently has an alloy bar, but I prefer CF. The M1900 i30 is a good budget wheelset; hard to justify an upgrade for a P/T set, but you know what a fine wheelset can do. In a nutshell, if your fork is covered, cockpit and wheels.

  39. #1039
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by She&I View Post
    If you're tall, a dropper. You can get a replacement Pike air shaft for ~$40 if you want to try 130/140 fork. I went econo when I ordered my Smash, but upgraded the bar and crank (happy in retrospect). My PH presently has an alloy bar, but I prefer CF. The M1900 i30 is a good budget wheelset; hard to justify an upgrade for a P/T set, but you know what a fine wheelset can do. In a nutshell, if your fork is covered, cockpit and wheels.
    I am not tall, all of 5'7" lol. I do have a carbon RF Next bar at home here that I will slap on whatever bike I get so I'm good there. Looking at the fork right now.... is the extra $60 worth it to have a Ribbon over Pike? Hahaha my mechanic works at MRP so I better not even think of anything other than a Ribbon if I do upgrade the fork!

  40. #1040
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by fids11 View Post
    I am not tall, all of 5'7" lol. I do have a carbon RF Next bar at home here that I will slap on whatever bike I get so I'm good there. Looking at the fork right now.... is the extra $60 worth it to have a Ribbon over Pike? Hahaha my mechanic works at MRP so I better not even think of anything other than a Ribbon if I do upgrade the fork!
    The separate neg and pos air on the Ribbon is pretty nice for getting exactly the feel you want. Ramp control is awesome as well for. The Ribbon comes with spacers for easily changing travel, too. Considering the minimal price difference, the Ribbon is the way to go. Many MRP riders seem to prefer the Ribbon Coil, so that's a consideration, too.

    One drawback to MRP last winter was lead time-- going MRP instead of something else pushed the bike out an additional 4-5 weeks. Not sure if that's still the case, but it's worth finding out if you think it's an issue for you...

  41. #1041
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,763
    Quote Originally Posted by fids11 View Post
    I am not tall, all of 5'7" lol. I do have a carbon RF Next bar at home here that I will slap on whatever bike I get so I'm good there. Looking at the fork right now.... is the extra $60 worth it to have a Ribbon over Pike? Hahaha my mechanic works at MRP so I better not even think of anything other than a Ribbon if I do upgrade the fork!
    Sounds good. I think most would reco the Ribbon upgrade; I would have gotten one on my Smash at that cost. But I am not unhappy with my Pike RC.

    Good luck in your quest!

  42. #1042
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by She&I View Post
    Sounds good. I think most would reco the Ribbon upgrade; I would have gotten one on my Smash at that cost. But I am not unhappy with my Pike RC.

    Good luck in your quest!
    Yeah I have a Pike RCT on my Rollik and I really like the feel of it as well. Ribbon is so highly spoken of though plus made only 45 miles away from me, I'd be kind of a gomer for not going with it. Just wanting to know if the Revelation is a good enough fork to upgrade other areas first?

  43. #1043
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    I could use some advice on rear tire pressure and options.

    I'm currently setup with a 29x2.6 Bontrager SE2 on the rear on a 30mm inner width rim. I'm really struggling to find a balance between a bouncy, traction-less ride and constantly bottoming out on the rim. I'm a fat-ass, about 240 riding weight. I know I'm not the "lightest" rider, coming off FS bikes forever.

    20psi seems to be the crossover. 20psi feels pretty good with traction and compliance, but if I ride up a step or through rocks I feel the rim. Much higher and it feels like I'm riding on a balloon.

    Suggestions? Might one of the Cush Core or Nukeproof ARD or other foam thingies help solve my issues?

    ac

  44. #1044
    Anytime. Anywhere.
    Reputation: Travis Bickle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,037
    I am strongly considering inserts on my similar hard tail. I want to run low pressure for traction, but don't want to clang off of the rocks. Almost went with Cushcore, but installation and tire swaps are a bit of a PITA. I have high hopes for Nukeproof ARD, fingers crossed.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  45. #1045
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I could use some advice on rear tire pressure and options.

    I'm currently setup with a 29x2.6 Bontrager SE2 on the rear on a 30mm inner width rim. I'm really struggling to find a balance between a bouncy, traction-less ride and constantly bottoming out on the rim. I'm a fat-ass, about 240 riding weight. I know I'm not the "lightest" rider, coming off FS bikes forever.

    20psi seems to be the crossover. 20psi feels pretty good with traction and compliance, but if I ride up a step or through rocks I feel the rim. Much higher and it feels like I'm riding on a balloon.

    Suggestions? Might one of the Cush Core or Nukeproof ARD or other foam thingies help solve my issues?

    ac
    Some of this may just be needing to accept or reconcile the difference in feel between fs and a hard tail. I had to make a little adjustment when I went from an Epic FS to the Pedalhead.

    I ride 15# on my 27.5+ Rekon 2.8's, and I'm 165# or so. I prefer 14#, but I begin to feel the rim, and occasionally burp the bead. On terrain that really pushes the hard tail (for me), I need closer to 20# to protect the rear rim a bit. This makes me think 20# is probably gonna be a little soft for you, at least on hard-edged terrain.

    I haven't used Cushcore or the like, but, as long as you can stand the weight increase, it seems like it'd be a good direction for you. What you're describing is pretty much exactly what Cushcore is made for. If I lived in a region with consistently harsher terrain, I'd probably check out Cushcore myself, if only on the rear.

  46. #1046
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Quote Originally Posted by yrrekr View Post
    Some of this may just be needing to accept or reconcile the difference in feel between fs and a hard tail. I had to make a little adjustment when I went from an Epic FS to the Pedalhead.

    I ride 15# on my 27.5+ Rekon 2.8's, and I'm 165# or so. I prefer 14#, but I begin to feel the rim, and occasionally burp the bead. On terrain that really pushes the hard tail (for me), I need closer to 20# to protect the rear rim a bit. This makes me think 20# is probably gonna be a little soft for you, at least on hard-edged terrain.

    I haven't used Cushcore or the like, but, as long as you can stand the weight increase, it seems like it'd be a good direction for you. What you're describing is pretty much exactly what Cushcore is made for. If I lived in a region with consistently harsher terrain, I'd probably check out Cushcore myself, if only on the rear.
    Yeah, that's what I meant by not being the "lightest" rider. I know my HT skills need honing. I'm sure I am rougher on the rear than I should be ideally.

    I would definitely only be looking at an insert for the rear. With the fork up front I have no rim strikes at ~15psi in the front.

    Honestly, I'm not a fan of these 2.6" tires. I think they are trying to solve a problem that simply doesn't exist. I think a more aggressive 2.4 tire is a better answer than a faster rolling 2.6.

    ac

  47. #1047
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    [QUOTE=avc8130;13873197
    20psi seems to be the crossover. 20psi feels pretty good with traction and compliance, but if I ride up a step or through rocks I feel the rim. Much higher and it feels like I'm riding on a balloon.

    [/QUOTE]

    That seems like really low pressure. I'm about 215 geared up. I'm running a 2.3 Aggressor at 27 psi and that's probably about as low as I can get away with. I think the main issue is just adapting to not having rear suspension soak up the bumps. A hardtail is going to be bouncy compared to a FS. I'm having to readjust to riding a hardtail myself. Although it's only been a couple months since I had a hardtail, I still noticed I need to be more active to absorb bumps.

  48. #1048
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    488
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I could use some advice on rear tire pressure and options.

    I'm currently setup with a 29x2.6 Bontrager SE2 on the rear on a 30mm inner width rim. I'm really struggling to find a balance between a bouncy, traction-less ride and constantly bottoming out on the rim. I'm a fat-ass, about 240 riding weight. I know I'm not the "lightest" rider, coming off FS bikes forever.

    20psi seems to be the crossover. 20psi feels pretty good with traction and compliance, but if I ride up a step or through rocks I feel the rim. Much higher and it feels like I'm riding on a balloon.

    Suggestions? Might one of the Cush Core or Nukeproof ARD or other foam thingies help solve my issues?

    ac
    Iím 270#. I am currentlyrunning Bontrager xR4 2.6 front and 2.4 rear , On reserve 30mm carbon Wheels. Iím running 25psi front and 34psi rear. I do also run the 2.6 in the rear sometimes at around 30psi. Seems to work well without any major issues.

  49. #1049
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    My Pedalhead size large is looking for a home.

    Color is beautiful black, no damage, very fresh.

    It takes a One Up 170mm dropper inserted to within 20mm of full insertion.

    PM for details
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  50. #1050
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    302
    Why are you selling? I thought you liked the Pedalhead better than the Smash?

  51. #1051
    since 4/10/2009
    Reputation: Harold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    23,562
    Quote Originally Posted by cassieno View Post
    Why are you selling? I thought you liked the Pedalhead better than the Smash?
    Ben cycles through bikes a LOT. I dunno how many he keeps around at any one time, but he's owned more bikes in the past 4 years than I think I've owned in 20yrs.

    If I like a bike, chances are I'm going to keep it for a decade or more. I typically only sell it sooner if I hate it.

  52. #1052
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    302
    Yep, I have seen that. Ben has only had the bike for 2 months though and curious what made him go from "Best.Frame.Ever." to looking to sell.

    If it had been 6 months I wouldn't have questioned it . Just doesn't seem like enough riding time is all.

  53. #1053
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    186
    Quote Originally Posted by cassieno View Post
    Yep, I have seen that. Ben has only had the bike for 2 months though and curious what made him go from "Best.Frame.Ever." to looking to sell.

    If it had been 6 months I wouldn't have questioned it . Just doesn't seem like enough riding time is all.
    Everyone needs someone like that, local, and the same size...

  54. #1054
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    My Pedalhead size large is looking for a home.

    Color is beautiful black, no damage, very fresh.

    It takes a One Up 170mm dropper inserted to within 20mm of full insertion.

    PM for details
    Can you quantify that seat height? I have a medium and I wish for more reach, but I already struggle with a 125 dropper.

    Maybe a BB to seat rail measurement?

    Trying to figure out saddle height on a frame with a dropper is mind numbing for some reason.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  55. #1055
    since 4/10/2009
    Reputation: Harold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    23,562
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Trying to figure out saddle height on a frame with a dropper is mind numbing for some reason.
    It's not too bad, actually. Gotta have a starting point, though.

    For me, that starting point is a professional road bike fitting. That gives me the absolute highest my seat should be at full extension. Make sure to include crank length. Most shops should have a tool that will measure from the center of the pedal spindle to the top of the saddle so you can get leg extension where you need it on any bike.

    The critical dimension for droppers is how much exposed seatpost you NEED for the full up position for a given frame, crank length, and saddle height. All the other measurements simply go into that equation to help you control for the other variables. If crank length will be the same between the two bikes, then you don't need to measure it. If you will be using the same saddle, then you don't need to measure it. Leaving the frame and exposed seatpost. If same frame, then you don't need to measure that, either. That gives you just the exposed seatpost.

    You also need to consider the amount of space the particular frame has available for seatpost insertion. So you'll need to measure the inside down to any obstructions like bends, bosses, the end of any honed portion of tubing, etc.

    IME, finding the dimensions of what I NEED is easier than finding the post with the most drop that fits those criteria, has a reasonably good performance/reliability record, and gives me the ability to lower it at least a few mm (since my mtb fit doesn't exactly match my road bike fit).

  56. #1056
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    I just love arm chair critics, you totaally know me but you couldn't pick me out in a crowd, too funny.

    So yeah, I do love it, it rides very well, best hardtail I've had since my Honzo days. I bought the Pedalhead to use for bikepacking and gravel burning, but I just can't tolerate the lack of rear suspension on long rides; I'm a broken down old man dontcha' know

    I have a Smash, it's a great bike, I scored a second set of wheels (27+), so I'll ride it as an only "child".

    If someone wants to buy the Pedalhead as a complete, that's an option too, GX drivetrain, DT Swiss/Duroc wheels, Pike fork.

    Quote Originally Posted by cassieno View Post
    Why are you selling? I thought you liked the Pedalhead better than the Smash?
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  57. #1057
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    You have a 125mm dropper now. How much post base is showing above the collar? If you have 50mm, then you could easilly get a 150mm dropper.

    Keep in mind that you need more inseam space above the collar and more insertion space below the collar.

    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Can you quantify that seat height? I have a medium and I wish for more reach, but I already struggle with a 125 dropper.

    Maybe a BB to seat rail measurement?

    Trying to figure out saddle height on a frame with a dropper is mind numbing for some reason.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  58. #1058
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I just love arm chair critics, you totaally know me but you couldn't pick me out in a crowd, too funny.

    So yeah, I do love it, it rides very well, best hardtail I've had since my Honzo days. I bought the Pedalhead to use for bikepacking and gravel burning, but I just can't tolerate the lack of rear suspension on long rides; I'm a broken down old man dontcha' know

    I have a Smash, it's a great bike, I scored a second set of wheels (27+), so I'll ride it as an only "child".

    If someone wants to buy the Pedalhead as a complete, that's an option too, GX drivetrain, DT Swiss/Duroc wheels, Pike fork.

    Damn Ben, where was this post four months ago? You would have saved me some coin. So it goes.
    Donít let the keyboard pontificaters razz ya. Who the hell keeps a bike for a decade?

  59. #1059
    since 4/10/2009
    Reputation: Harold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    23,562
    Quote Originally Posted by Cozzy View Post
    Who the hell keeps a bike for a decade?
    I do. I have owned 2 different bikes that long, though none of my current ones are (my oldest current one is 4yrs old and will probably own it for at least a decade). I also prefer to keep cars at least that long (my current one is 11yrs old). I have also kept computers for that long. That is a short list.

    I passed no judgement on Ben...just an observation that he buys and sells bikes more often than I do. He can do as he pleases. I can't afford to buy expensive bikes much more often than I do.

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

  60. #1060
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    You have a 125mm dropper now. How much post base is showing above the collar? If you have 50mm, then you could easilly get a 150mm dropper.

    Keep in mind that you need more inseam space above the collar and more insertion space below the collar.
    I've got ~1" between the top of the seat tube and the dropper collar, but the post won't insert any more.

    ac

  61. #1061
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    12,159
    Quote Originally Posted by Cozzy View Post
    Who the hell keeps a bike for a decade?
    So true. I sold my Nomad to a buddy after 9.5 years and was a bit bummed not to get to a full decade with it. Maybe I can get there with my Smash? #BikeGoals
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  62. #1062
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I've got ~1" between the top of the seat tube and the dropper collar, but the post won't insert any more.

    ac
    That can be fixed with an adjustable reamer. You'll still be limited by the bend in the seat tube but you can do the math to figure out it that's going to interfere with the dropper based on the insertion depth.

  63. #1063
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    That may be it for your frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I've got ~1" between the top of the seat tube and the dropper collar, but the post won't insert any more.

    ac
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  64. #1064
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    That can be fixed with an adjustable reamer. You'll still be limited by the bend in the seat tube but you can do the math to figure out it that's going to interfere with the dropper based on the insertion depth.
    Do you have a link to the tool you are suggesting?

  65. #1065
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,050
    Well, that was waaay back in the summer when I was playing a Trek

    Sorry for your loss. Ummm, wait, what?

    You all think I go through bikes fast, you should have been there when I was into tele or whitewater; Iíve slowed down in my old age

    Quote Originally Posted by Cozzy View Post
    Damn Ben, where was this post four months ago? You would have saved me some coin. So it goes.
    Donít let the keyboard pontificaters razz ya. Who the hell keeps a bike for a decade?
    Lrg GG Pedalhead 29/27+
    XMed GG Smash 29/27+
    Lrg Devinci Hendrix 27+ (Loaner)
    Pivot Shuttle 27+ (wife)

  66. #1066
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Do you have a link to the tool you are suggesting?
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I believe the shank where the tap handle attaches is 1/2".

  67. #1067
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I believe the shank where the tap handle attaches is 1/2".
    That's not too bad. The theory here is just cleaning up the weld penetration at the seat tube/top tube junction, right?

  68. #1068
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    That's not too bad. The theory here is just cleaning up the weld penetration at the seat tube/top tube junction, right?
    Yeah for the most part. GG reams/hones it as far as their tools reaches (about 16cm). Yet, some people have been able to insert their droppers further than that straight from the factory. So if there's a change in diameter, it's super minimal. It would probably only take one pass of the reamer.

  69. #1069
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Ok, great. I'm going to pull my dropper and see how far I can insert a straight seat post. If it looks like it's hanging to before getting to the s bend I'll be buying a reamer!
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Yeah for the most part. GG reams/hones it as far as their tools reaches (about 16cm). Yet, some people have been able to insert their droppers further than that straight from the factory. So if there's a change in diameter, it's super minimal. It would probably only take one pass of the reamer.
    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  70. #1070
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    I did some more investigating. I now know that my bike uses a 31.6-30.9 shim for the seat!

    I also think I determined that there is nothing I can do to get more insertion depth. I do think my seat stops at the top tube junction, but looking at how quickly the S turn occurs, I gotta think the dropper actuator assembly is bottoming out on that at just about the same time, no?

  71. #1071
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jeremy3220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I did some more investigating. I now know that my bike uses a 31.6-30.9 shim for the seat!

    I also think I determined that there is nothing I can do to get more insertion depth. I do think my seat stops at the top tube junction, but looking at how quickly the S turn occurs, I gotta think the dropper actuator assembly is bottoming out on that at just about the same time, no?
    I believe the older Pedalheads had a 31.6mm seat tube.

    It might depend on your frame size. Mine is an XL which has a significant amount of straight seat tube below the top of the top tube.

  72. #1072
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    648
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    I believe the older Pedalheads had a 31.6mm seat tube.

    It might depend on your frame size. Mine is an XL which has a significant amount of straight seat tube below the top of the top tube.
    Yeah, mine is an M. Doesn't look like there is much straight tube at all.

    ac

Page 11 of 11 FirstFirst ... 7891011

Similar Threads

  1. Gravity FSX for a 400#er??
    By Kesrick in forum Clydesdales/Tall Riders
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 07-31-2015, 04:50 AM
  2. Gravity G29 FS
    By adrenalinejoe in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 10-28-2014, 04:21 PM
  3. Gravity HTX-7
    By hardrocke in forum Motobecane
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-18-2011, 08:51 PM
  4. Gravity Soul video from the Gravity East #7
    By thegravitysoul in forum Videos and POV Cameras
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-20-2011, 05:04 AM
  5. stans gorrilla ghetto
    By b-kul in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-17-2011, 07:02 PM

Members who have read this thread: 298

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

mtbr.com and the ConsumerReview Network are business units of Invenda Corporation

(C) Copyright 1996-2018. All Rights Reserved.