Original i-Drive riders still out there?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Original i-Drive riders still out there?

    I picked up a 2001 XCR-1000 frame a couple years back. It sustained the typical seatpost crack with less than 100 miles on it and had been replaced on warranty and the guy had kept the old frame. I had it re-welded and have been riding it ever since and love it. It's my fourth full-susser and by far my favorite. It was also one of the last US made bikes before the bankruptcy.
    Anyhow, it's a great climber, great for XC and a great all around bike. I even use it for commuting. But I never see anyone else around here on one, which makes me wonder, how many people are still out there on the original i-drive design?

    Here's my baby (though I blew the SID rear and now have a 5th Element on there)
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    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  2. #2
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    I still rock the old eccentric iDrive system on my freeride bike. It's an '05 Ruckus 2.0 and still rides like new going into six years old. Pretty impressive i think.
    This is an older photo. She's had a few upgrades since and has shed a few grams.
    I'm Ron Burgundy?

  3. #3
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    nice! freeriding usually takes more guts than I have. I mostly stick to the XC stuff, but I've played a few times.(It probably doesn't help that I'm getting older and think more about how much a crash would hurt than I used to)
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  4. #4
    Recogonize.
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    I had an old xcr 4000 frame I built up years ago. Loved the way it rode. Like eatyapees, I sold the bike and bought a Stinky for freeriding.
    "We're gonna need a bigger boat."

  5. #5
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    My 99 xcr is still my main off road bike. I rarely see anyone on a GT, let alone an old GT.

  6. #6
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    my 99 is still going strong
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  7. #7
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    I just picked up a 2001 I-Drive off of CL for 50$.

    Granted, it's the 6.0, so the lowest end, but it is still great for 50$ I have big plans for this baby. I'll try posting pictures sometime soon.

    Update: Heres some photos. I can't believe I got this for 50$. This is why I prowl craigslist daily! it finally paid off!




    She has seen better days, but she also has better days ahead.
    Last edited by Buggyr333; 01-23-2011 at 11:17 AM.

  8. #8
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    I still rock my 2000 XCR 3000 on the trails. Until recently it was my main mountain bike! Now I rock two other GTs.
    Quote Originally Posted by forkboy
    And don't be scared to walk. Walking is one of the mystical 3 gears of Single Speed.

    Sit
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    Walk.

  9. #9
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    2001 I-Drive race still going strong

    My 2001 i-drive race is used as a back up bike to a Giant Trance X2 but I love the i-drive design from an engineering standpoint. Just added some new wheels and tires (well new to this bike!!). I rebuilt the whole bike 2 years ago.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img_0226-large-.jpg  


  10. #10
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    nice bike and neighborhood steve. buggy, nice find for 50 bucks!
    "We're gonna need a bigger boat."

  11. #11
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    Raukman, I love the finish. Is it just the polished aluminum and did it come that way or did you do it? May have to give that a try sometime.

    Buggy, I'll give you $55 for that bike. I need a new ride for my wife and you just made me totally jealous.

    Steve, A Trance and a i-Drive race? Lucky! I still need to figure out how to convince my wife that more than 1 bike at a time is a good thing.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  12. #12
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    Nice I-Drives!!!!!

    I rode an loved mine until it cracked in the winter of '08-'09

    XCR1500

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmdj
    Raukman, I love the finish. Is it just the polished aluminum and did it come that way or did you do it? May have to give that a try sometime.

    Buggy, I'll give you $55 for that bike. I need a new ride for my wife and you just made me totally jealous.

    Steve, A Trance and a i-Drive race? Lucky! I still need to figure out how to convince my wife that more than 1 bike at a time is a good thing.
    Its a ball burnish real easy to polish up , there is a thread here in GT section were a guy stripped and polished his zaskar up.
    Here is a pick from my shiny fetish
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman
    Its a ball burnish real easy to polish up , there is a thread here in GT section were a guy stripped and polished his zaskar up.
    Here is a pick from my shiny fetish
    I think I just got drool on my keyboard
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  15. #15
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    2001 GT I Drive Timberline - Upgraded

    One of my favorites! Has treated me well for 5 years now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imag0376.1.jpg  


  16. #16
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    Another 2001 Timberline I-Drive
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-timberlines7301211.jpg  


  17. #17
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    Here's mine. 2001 model? Has XT components(LX crank) RS Judy Race, and SID rear. Looks like crap, and I'm upgrading the brakes to disk. Picked it up for $200.00 about a month ago. I like it!

  18. #18
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    Holy crap!!! Fun for all. Still rockin the '01 iDrive 4.0. The only stock component left is the rear spring. Got it down well below 27 lbs and I'm guessing it probably has almost 5000 miles on it.

    I've ridden every subsequent iDrive design and this one still delivers a firmer ride and better feel for XC. Seems the newer ones are designed around shocks with platforms. This one didn't need it.

    This one grew up in rocky/rooty Ct. and now resides in flowy Georgia. Love it to deth.





    '01 iDrive 4.0 Frame
    '05 Manitou Black Super Air SPV 80
    American Classic hubs, Mavic x317s with Wheelsmith DB14s and alu nipples
    Mix of '04 - '05 Shimano LX and XT
    Square taper '04 Truvativ Firex SLs
    IRC Mibros 2.25/2.1 with Stans
    Maxm MX-6 bars, ODI Ruffian Lockons
    990 Cassette
    Bontrager Race 2014 post, WTB Rocket V ProGel (don't make these anymore)

    Overall, just a *****in bike. Like I said...I've tried just about everything else and this one rides better than almost all of them. I'll be upgrading the bars soon since these are about 5 years past their service life. Other than that, rock on!


    AJ
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  19. #19
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    idrive Team

    I got an '01 idrive team on CL a couple years ago. I was just beginning to love it and the bearings went on the eccentric pivot. I can't find replacements anywhere! Grrr. Any ideas?

  20. #20
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    I have a set

    Quote Originally Posted by jxp356
    I got an '01 idrive team on CL a couple years ago. I was just beginning to love it and the bearings went on the eccentric pivot. I can't find replacements anywhere! Grrr. Any ideas?
    Drop me an email. I have an installed but unused set. If yer local I can install em too.

    Mcseforsale.at.yahoodotcom

    AJ
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  21. #21
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    Here is an update on my 2001 GT Idrive 6.0 that I scored for 50$ In January with all the stock components.
    Well here it is a few months later, with Many upgrades:
    -RS Tora 302 85-135mm Uturn fork
    -Fox Float Rear shock
    -Deore XT Rd
    -Deore XT Crankset
    -Shimano Gripshifter (only rear, 1x8 setup)
    -Wellgo DH pedals
    -Sette Venn seatpost
    -WTB rocket V saddle
    -WTB Wolverine 2.2 tires
    -ESI chunky black grips
    -FSA Gravity bars
    -XTR V brakes

    Wheelset is next on the upgrade list.




    (for when it gets mucky out, rear fender was improvised from a broken old front one)

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    Here is an update on my 2001 GT Idrive 6.0 ..........
    Did you happen to weigh the frame when you had it all stripped down?

  23. #23
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    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)

  24. #24
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    Buggy, that looks great!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.

  27. #27
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    Hope OK, Don't make fun but....

    here ya go. I used to hang out here heavily. I never had to report my frame because the iDrive 1.0-4.0 are the same. The 5.0-6.0 are the same and the Race and Team are the same. Here's yer listing....

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/li...spensionframes


    AJ


    Quote Originally Posted by bme107
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  28. #28
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    3540g in XL, so my LG would be somewhere around 7.5 lbs. My guess was right on the money.

  29. #29
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    Nice job Buggy! Ya know,you've got disc tabs on there.

    You've spent a lot on that bike but in my opinion,that frame is worth it.

    Funny, when my neighbor gave me that beat Timberline I-Drive, I politely thanked him and wheeled it into my shed and figured I'd save the BB7's and just put the bike in the trash a few months later. LOL Now,it's my favorite ride! I've ridden it in the past when it was in good operating condition and it never impressed me. The short stem 24" wide bars and 80mm fork on it made it scary on the chunky downhills. It was way too twitchy. Now, with the 26" bars,130mm fork and longer stem,it feels much better going down. It's not quite as stable going down as my 68 degree Jamis XLT, but it's close.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Nice job Buggy! Ya know,you've got disc tabs on there.

    You've spent a lot on that bike but in my opinion,that frame is worth it.
    Yeah, the disk tabs are tempting, but at the moment I am enjoying the bling factor of XTR v brakes. And on top of that I don't have disk hubs yet, and if I were to have disks i'd have the ugly studs on the fork sticking out.

    As far as spending alot, I actually haven't spent much at all on it. Probably right around the 400$ to 500$ mark, with the initial cost of the bike included. Most of the parts I either had lying around, took off another of my bikes, or got for very cheap. The only exception is the fork which ran me about 200$. Brakes came from a bike I had lying around, as did the bars and saddle. and most of the other parts were cheap from a bike swap meet.

  31. #31
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    I asked this in another thread with no answers, so I figured I would ask here.
    Does anyone know what the difference in performance between the old eccentric idrive system and the newer system seen on the more modern gt bikes? or did they just change the system to make it more user friendly and lighter?

  32. #32
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    I've ridden most of the new designs...

    I think there were a couple of primary design philosophies when they started with the re-design.

    First, the original one with the eccentric was very complicated and difficult to manufacture. With the giant bearings they had to use and all the complex machining (just take a good hard look at your eccentric from a mechanical perspective..) to produce the parts, it wasn't sustainable I don't think. Plus, the new designs use far less parts, creating far less exposure to support issues.

    Second, I think all the newer designs were built with different shock rates to make them MORE active and use platform shocks, whereas the original ones were designed when platform shocks weren't around yet...thus making the design and rates of the suspension responsible for the platform.

    With that said, I still prefer the original iDrive for most trail riding. I'm sure the new ones are more betterer at other things, but without all the platforms engaged, the new ones feel too squishy for me...which is why I liked the iDrive in the first place.

    AJ



    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    I asked this in another thread with no answers, so I figured I would ask here.
    Does anyone know what the difference in performance between the old eccentric idrive system and the newer system seen on the more modern gt bikes? or did they just change the system to make it more user friendly and lighter?
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sonmike
    Here's mine. 2001 model? Has XT components(LX crank) RS Judy Race, and SID rear. Looks like crap, and I'm upgrading the brakes to disk. Picked it up for $200.00 about a month ago. I like it!
    Looks like a 2000 model XCR3000. And I'd lower that seatpost/get a longer one ASAP.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    Yeah, the disk tabs are tempting, but at the moment I am enjoying the bling factor of XTR v brakes. And on top of that I don't have disk hubs yet, and if I were to have disks i'd have the ugly studs on the fork sticking out.
    Unscrew the studs and put rubber plugs in the holes. The main reason I changed to discs is because I got tired of my rims wearing out from the abrasive type dirt that I ride in. My rims used to split at the braking track in only one season of riding. I remember wearing a set of pads out in one 1.5 hour ride. It was raining hard and the soil had a high Mica content. The braking surface was cupped pretty badly too. A few rides later,the braking tracks started to split and fold over. I got tired of this and have been using discs for the past 6 years with no unusual wear problems.

    Today, V-brakes would probably work much better for me as I almost never ride when the trails are wet. Dirt with a high sand content, plus water, equals a very effective grinding compound. It also grinds up the the drivetrain prematurely.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Unscrew the studs and put rubber plugs in the holes. The main reason I changed to discs is because I got tired of my rims wearing out from the abrasive type dirt that I ride in. My rims used to split at the braking track in only one season of riding. I remember wearing a set of pads out in one 1.5 hour ride. It was raining hard and the soil had a high Mica content. The braking surface was cupped pretty badly too. A few rides later,the braking tracks started to split and fold over. I got tired of this and have been using discs for the past 6 years with no unusual wear problems.

    Today, V-brakes would probably work much better for me as I almost never ride when the trails are wet. Dirt with a high sand content, plus water, equals a very effective grinding compound. It also grinds up the the drivetrain prematurely.
    Well even if I unscrew the bosses themselves, there's still an inch long cone sticking out on both sides. And my xtr's work fine, my environment is mostly dry (Southern California), and I've never had problems with my rims grinding away. And besides, I don't like disks all that much, I'm not too good at getting adjusted quite right. I have one bike with Avid BB7's and one with Juicy 7's. While I like how easy it is to adjust the bb7s to not scrape the rotors, I always have to pull the lever all the way to the grip to skid, and while the Juicys offer excellent stopping power, I cannot get them to stop scraping the rotors.

    So I'll stick with my XTR v brakes. I just enjoy how easy they are. And they're a conversation piece on the trail "Oh those look really interesting, what are the benefits to that design?" blablablah.

    And btw, with my most recent upgrades, I am loving the living hell out of my idrive. I don't know if I like it more than my 29ers, But definitely have a whole lot more fun on it than I did when I first got it.

  36. #36
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    I2k

    I2K with some old parts thrown on....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-i2k3.jpg  


  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    While I like how easy it is to adjust the bb7s to not scrape the rotors, I always have to pull the lever all the way to the grip to skid
    Well, I have BB7's on two of my bikes, including the I-drive. Either your cable housings are very worn and/or are compressing or the inner or outer pads are not adjusted properly. I'm assuming the calipers are aligned with the discs. The stopping power should be close to the hydraulics - just need more hand pressure.

    With the BB7's set up properly, you should be able to skid or put yourself over the bars with say, only a 1/2" movement of the levers. Also, you should never use the barrel adjusters on your levers to adjust those brakes. Adjustment should be at the pads only. Keep the inner pad as close to the rotor as possible and use the outer pad to control the distance your lever travels before the brakes lock up. You can make your BB7's lock up anywhere within the lever travel using this method. If that doesn't work, then the problem lies with the cables or housing or contaminated pads/rotors.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Well, I have BB7's on two of my bikes, including the I-drive. Either your cable housings are very worn and/or are compressing or the inner or outer pads are not adjusted properly. I'm assuming the calipers are aligned with the discs. The stopping power should be close to the hydraulics - just need more hand pressure.
    It's none of that, it's actually because the rotors are warped, since the design relies on the flexing of the rotor to get any stopping power. They weren't like that at first, I just use that bike a whole lot, and can't justify the price of new rotors for the time being, since I can still skid the bike fine, it just needs more lever movement than the average bike.

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    Just finished building it!

    Literally just finished building this 2005 I-drive 2.0 for my brother. Enjoy!





    Quote Originally Posted by forkboy
    And don't be scared to walk. Walking is one of the mystical 3 gears of Single Speed.

    Sit
    Stand
    Walk.

  40. #40
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    I believe my bike is an early GT i-drive. bought it at a local pawn shop for $400. The frame style is sililar to these early 2000's GT's. My frame is a real shiney coper color. It came with a fox vanilla fork and a float RL in the rear also looks to be converted to hayes hydrolic discs. NO stickers can anybody tell me how to identify it? I am looking to exchange/upgrade a few parts but the bike rides real nice for me as is

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by iradi8 View Post
    I believe my bike is an early GT i-drive. bought it at a local pawn shop for $400. The frame style is sililar to these early 2000's GT's. My frame is a real shiney coper color. It came with a fox vanilla fork and a float RL in the rear also looks to be converted to hayes hydrolic discs. NO stickers can anybody tell me how to identify it? I am looking to exchange/upgrade a few parts but the bike rides real nice for me as is
    I'm sure with some good pictures it could be identified.

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    yeah I think so too but since I am new I cant start a new thread until 5 posts. This is #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by iradi8 View Post
    yeah I think so too but since I am new I cant start a new thread until 5 posts. This is #3
    then reply to this post .

    and the next one.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    I2K with some old parts thrown on....
    Nice ride! So what gives? Was this a special addition? It looks almost identical to a bike I speacial ordered in 2000'. Mine was an XCR-LE which also had the same GT Race blue yellow paint scheme and hand made frame at the Sana Ana plant. Made from Easton 6061 taper walled aluminum. Which shaved a pound off of any other I-drive offered in the 4.6" travel. Yours looks like it may have less travel than that. What year and model is that? Yours is obviously the same Easton tubing and from the same plant hence the "ping pong padel" decal on the seat tower which signified hand made Easton 6061 aluminum which only these frames received.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 07-02-2011 at 07:14 PM.

  45. #45
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    My 01 iDrive Race Rocks it like NO OTHER!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-933914_10200776644645837_425446189_n.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-933914_10200776644605836_51502507_n.jpg  

    Last edited by y33dave; 02-26-2014 at 01:02 PM.
    Live
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    SPIN

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    Great to see the ol i-drives still kick it. As soon as I take a one of my 1999 xcr-1000 i'll post it.

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    Not for much longer...

    I'm afraid the last holdout of my eccentric-era stable has succumbed to the dreaded seatpost mast failure, fourth or fifth one for me. Too bad, this had been a great frame thus far, been my daily commuter/'road bike' for a few years now. It was an '04 Pro model, lightweight short-travel version. The rear triangle broke about a year ago but I was able to find a take-off from a 1.0 or 2.0 version and keep it going, with a bit more travel thanks to different lower shock mount. It's super plush and comfy with a 6.75x1.25" shock and 130mm coil Revelation (both Push'd), kept me pedalling through the endless NorCal winter when all the trails were too muddy to ride... it has served well.

    I'm convinced that opening/closing the seatpost q/r is what does these frames in; this one, and my last 1.0 had extra material added in the problem zone and held up much longer than my first generation iDrives did for sure. But I learned to monitor and check regularly and sure enough, just like my 1.0 this one was fine one minute and cracked after removing and reinstalling the post. If you're still riding one of these I'd recommend running a bolt-type clamp instead of a quick release, and only adjust if absolutely necessary.

    Alas, unless I find a screamin' deal on a replacement eccentric frame it looks like this one will be upgraded to ID-style soon, I'll just nurse as many commutes out of it as possible in the meantime. Farewell old friend, thanks for the rides!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-jul11-101.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-jul11-103.jpg  


  48. #48
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    Seems to be lots of good info in here, and some sweet bikes! I've got a couple questions for those of you who are familiar with these give me some input as to this possible craigslist project...

    "This is just the frame, It is a size medium, it is missing the i-drive bearings but otherwise would make a good project bike. Asking $50"

    i'm not sure how expensive / difficult replacing the bearings is (still researching), but would this be an alright frame to build off of or do you think i'd be better off scrounging craigslist more...

    edit: can't post pics/link yet but heres the link minus http with a pic in it: ://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/bik/2482418296.html

    sorry for the noob post and thanks for any info!

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTfreefall View Post
    One of my favorites! Has treated me well for 5 years now.
    Over look at Tasali, NC
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imag0424.jpg  


  50. #50
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    I have a 98 STS xcr 2000 I still ride. Bone stock except for the seat. Thinking of lightening it up a bit. Anyone done a recent build on one of these frames? Wondering how light I could go.

  51. #51
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    Picked this 2002 (i think) ruckus 2.0 frame up last winter and had to put it together on a budget. I'll continue upgrading as funds allow. But after this first summer of abuse I'm pretty pleased.

    2011 Marzocchi Bomber 55tst2 air
    Rock Shox monarch 3.1
    WTB dual duty fr wheels
    WTB MX prowler tires
    Bontrager King Earl crank
    Truvativ stem
    Truvativ hussefelt handlebar
    Truvativ howitzer bottom bracket
    Avid bb7 brakes, came off old bike
    Deore LX derailleurs and shifters, came of a 1999 xcr4000
    WTB seat and seat post
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dsc01577.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dsc01579.jpg  


  52. #52
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    I had a Ruckus 2.0 then a ID5 1.0, both got replaced due to I-drive issues after many years of service and I miss riding them both.

    Old I-drive system rode better though.

  53. #53
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    I still have an ride my 99 xcr i drive.
    an like mentioned i rarely see another on the trails


  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by jballz01 View Post
    I have a 98 STS xcr 2000 I still ride. Bone stock except for the seat. Thinking of lightening it up a bit. Anyone done a recent build on one of these frames? Wondering how light I could go.
    I believe you are incorrect in the year of your i-Drive. The first year of that design was 1999.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric. View Post
    I'm afraid the last holdout of my eccentric-era stable has succumbed to the dreaded seatpost mast failure, fourth or fifth one for me. Too bad, this had been a great frame thus far, been my daily commuter/'road bike' for a few years now. It was an '04 Pro model, lightweight short-travel version. The rear triangle broke about a year ago but I was able to find a take-off from a 1.0 or 2.0 version and keep it going, with a bit more travel thanks to different lower shock mount. It's super plush and comfy with a 6.75x1.25" shock and 130mm coil Revelation (both Push'd), kept me pedalling through the endless NorCal winter when all the trails weree too muddy to ride... it has served well.

    I'm convinced that opening/closing the seatpost q/r is what does these frames in; this one, and my last 1.0 had extra material added in the problem zone and held up much longer than my first generation iDrives did for sure. But I learned to monitor and check regularly and sure enough, just like my 1.0 this one was fine one minute and cracked after removing and reinstalling the post. If you're still riding one of these I'd recommend running a bolt-type clamp instead of a quick release, and only adjust if absolutely necessary.

    Alas, unless I find a screamin' deal on a replacement eccentric frame it looks like this one will be upgraded to ID-style soon, I'll just nurse as many commutes out of it as possible in the meantime. Farewell old friewell old friend, thanks for the rides!


    Well you sure stuck it out (with that design) for a hell of a lot longer than I did. Back in 2000' I special ordered the premier i-Drive. An XCR-LE which I rode fairly aggressively for six months. At the six month mark the now infamous seat mast failure happened. GT stepped up and replaced the frame with one of the last LE's produced. I questioned the GT sales Rep if this was a common problem? and is it a desiign flaw? will this inevitablely happen again to this new frame? He responded saying it is not a design flaw and out of the numerous thousands of i-drive frames built he only heard of two such failures happening. So with some peace of mind I rode that frame normally ( fairly aggressively) but mind you I would often stop in the middle of a ride to check the seatmast area for stress cracks.
    Well low and behold one day in the middle of a 12 mile ride while standing out of the saddle I hear a tinging sound. I in my head immediately think "oh no" the same sound I heard on the first frame failure. I hit the skids and jump off to check and sure enough a stress crack in the EXACT same spot as the first frame. And what really tripped me out was that it happened EXACTLY at the SIX month mark. The same amount of time it took for the first frame to fail. Well needless to say rode the last six miles out of the saddle to the trail head. Well back to get a warranty replacement frame. In my head knowing I received the last LE produced last time I wondered what frame they were going to downgrade me to. Well upon my arrival at my lbs the salesman tells me GT filed bankruptcy and therefore no GT warranty's are being honored. I was dumbfounded and asked to talk to the manager
    I explained my situation and he knew I special ordered that bike and paid $4500.00 for it with an additional $500.00 in gear a year prior. And I was a frequent repeat customer at his store. So being the stand up person and shop that they had a reputation of. Did what they could do and what GT at that point couldn't do. He offered me a $500.00 discount on another brand frame of my choice. Along with free tear down a build of the new frame.Well having no other option I took the deal. I was in luck that they carried other top brands. I chose to go with an Intense UZZI-SL which was a $2000.00 frame. Most of my parts from the GT were switched over. But I was forced to buy a new fork $650.00 and I chose to go with newer brakes Hope minis hydros to replace the crappy Formula hydros the GT came with. So this GT seatmast failure cost me substantial amount of coin due to the GT bankrupsy. I miss that i-Drive LE and loved the way it handled and performed flawlessly in all situations. It climbed like a mountain goat and descended with precision. And IMO one of the best suspension designs of all time. I don't get the corrilation between that old i-drive design and the new one. In my eyes they are not even close,not enough so to warrant the i-drive name to be branded on the new design.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 10-01-2011 at 12:50 PM.

  56. #56
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    hi all, i have a 05 gt i-drive 2.0 that im building up , i use it for xc,freeriding and downhill .. jack of all trades any ways last thing to upgrade is the front forks .. it still has the stocks ones , i wanna put a set of 140 or 50mm forks on .. been looking on chainreactioncycles.for a set but dunno what steer tube size i need .. if any one could let me no a good set that will fit .. wanna keep it under $400 a set if i can .. cheeeers boys .

  57. #57
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    I'm sure your frame is a 1 1/8th inche ht.

  58. #58
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    cheers mate yeah its 11/8"


    heres my rig (i-drive 2.0) ... just a fun budget style build .. nice and cheap fun . pretty much all done just need sum new forks , then its all sweet ..used for freeriding and sum downhill ..


    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6525.jpg

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6516.jpg

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6514.jpg

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6511.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6527.jpg  


  59. #59
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    Hello all,

    New to forums. Glade to see a great GT Post.

    Just a quick question. I have a line on two 2001 GT Idrive Team frames, one has a Talas RCL fork and they both have Fox RC race shocks. Any idea what they’re worth. I want to build one for my son and one for myself.

    Don't know much about them but they are just cool looking frames!!!

    Thanks

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by missionbound08 View Post
    Hello all,

    New to forums. Glade to see a great GT Post.

    Just a quick question. I have a line on two 2001 GT Idrive Team frames, one has a Talas RCL fork and they both have Fox RC race shocks. Any idea what they’re worth. I want to build one for my son and one for myself.

    Don't know much about them but they are just cool looking frames!!!

    Thanks
    Well the 2001' Team was GT's top of the line frame for that year. It was GT's last horay before the Big Bankruptsy. It was a frame designed for XC Racing. All i-drives prior to that point and the rest of that years lineup were 4.6" travel bikes. But the Team and its sister frame the Race which was the same frame with lower components both had 3" travel. More oriented for XC racing. They had Race Edition geometry which meant longer toptube and shorter chain stays. They were hand built at the Santa Ana plant using lightweight Easton 6061 custom butted taperwall aluminum. A much higher grade aluminum which is just as strong but much lighter than the 7000 series aluminum uses on all other i-drives except the 00' LE which was also handbuilt Easton 6061 taperwalled but that frame was 4.6" travel
    Great find by the way and as far as price well the Team frame sold new for $2000.00. So in today's market a good condition one I would say a fair price of $400-$600. Oh and also the Team came only in one color combo of team GT race colors which were blue/yellow.,,
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 10-05-2011 at 07:13 PM.

  61. #61
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    I came here to start a similar thread but am glad to see this one going.
    I ride a 2001 4.0 that is 100% original. Not many miles on it at all. Just pulled it out of the garage to start riding again.

  62. #62
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    Picked up one of two Idrive team frames!!

    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Well the 2001' Team was GT's top of the line frame for that year. It was GT's last horay before the Big Bankruptsy. It was a frame designed for XC Racing. All i-drives prior to that point and the rest of that years lineup were 4.6" travel bikes. But the Team and its sister frame the Race which was the same frame with lower components both had 3" travel. More oriented for XC racing. They had Race Edition geometry which meant longer toptube and shorter chain stays. They were hand built at the Santa Ana plant using lightweight Easton 6061 custom butted taperwall aluminum. A much higher grade aluminum which is just as strong but much lighter than the 7000 series aluminum uses on all other i-drives except the 00' LE which was also handbuilt Easton 6061 taperwalled but that frame was 4.6" travel
    Great find by the way and as far as price well the Team frame sold new for $2000.00. So in today's market a good condition one I would say a fair price of $400-$600. Oh and also the Team came only in one color combo of team GT race colors which were blue/yellow.,,
    DIRTJUNKIE.

    THANKS. Great info. I did get one of the frames today. I told the LBS owner that I'm trying to build it for my son (1 of 4). I mentioned putting 24" tires with disc hubs ( found online for $200). And a 150mm crank. He loved the idea so much that he gave the frame to him they do have a good relstionship, he has had my son to the shop to "work" several times. I don't think I'll get that price for the second but we'll see. Don't know if it will all work as far as geometry but we are going to give it a try. Probably take the Talas 90-130mm off and go short as possible. I have a Duke 63-108mm. Will try to add picts as possible. Any thought are welcome.

  63. #63
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    Cool thread! I used to have a 01' XCR 1.0 and loved it.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by missionbound08 View Post
    DIRTJUNKIE.

    THANKS. Great info. I did get one of the frames today. I told the LBS owner that I'm trying to build it for my son (1 of 4). I mentioned putting 24" tires with disc hubs ( found online for $200). And a 150mm crank. He loved the idea so much that he gave the frame to him they do have a good relstionship, he has had my son to the shop to "work" several times. I don't think I'll get that price for the second but we'll see. Don't know if it will all work as far as geometry but we are going to give it a try. Probably take the Talas 90-130mm off and go short as possible. I have a Duke 63-108mm. Will try to add picts as possible. Any thought are welcome.
    Sounds great! And I would say your son is a lucky young man. Well for your frame I would suggest running a 163mm fork. That is what the Team was designed to run. Some people have ran 180mm and have said they liked it. But 163mm matches the rear travel and the geometry of the frame. As far as your sons build with running 24" wheels that is going to be trial and error picking the correct travel fork. Your idea of running the Duke with its adjustability from 63-108mm sounds like a great plac to start. I certainly would like to hear the progress of both builds. Keep us informed along the way. And congratulations to both of you I think you will be very happy with your choice of frames.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 10-06-2011 at 10:37 PM.

  65. #65
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    Always changing my bike, figured I would update. Still love the hell out of it, and no sign of any seat mast failures, and Ive been riding her hard.




    Parts List:
    Fork: 2001 Marzocchi Z.1 Mcr 130mm
    Rear Shock: Fox Float
    Wheelset: Velocity Synergy in Yellow, GT front hub, STX rear hub.
    Tires: Forte Pisgah 2.3 front, 2.1 rear
    Brakes: XTR
    Levers: Avid FR5
    Bars: UNO 680mm wide riser Gold
    Grips: ESI Chunky
    Stem: Titec Big Al
    Shifters: Sram Attack grip shifters
    Front Derailleur: Shimano alivio
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR mid cage
    Cassette: Shimano 11-32
    Crankset: Shimano XT hollowtech 1, 22-32-bash
    Pedals: Shimano dual spd
    Seatpost: Deity Tibia
    Saddle: Nashbar F1

    Right around the 30lb mark.

  66. #66
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    Thats a sexy bike you got there buggy.

    I just recently got a 99 xcr-3000 from my step dad, thing runs like a dream and you cant beat the price of free. Had one question though. Some of you guys seem like you have disc brakes on the rear, my lbs told me that I wouldnt be able to put them on my bike so just wondering how you all did.

    Cheers

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Sounds great! And I would say your son is a lucky young man. Well for your frame I would suggest running a 163mm fork. That is what the Team was designed to run. Some people have ran 180mm and have said they liked it. But 163mm matches the rear travel and the geometry of the frame. As far as your sons build with running 24" wheels that is going to be trial and error picking the correct travel fork. Your idea of running the Duke with its adjustability from 63-108mm sounds like a great plac to start. I certainly would like to hear the progress of both builds. Keep us informed along the way. And congratulations to both of you I think you will be very happy with your choice of frames.
    Don't know if you meant 63mm instead of 163mm. I used to have a 2001 Team frame and the longest fork you should run is a 80mm travel fork. Anything more than that it will really screw up the geometry and it won't handle right. Trust me, I tried running a 100mm and it never felt right. running a 180mm fork is like running 7 inches of travel when you should be running no more than 4 inches. Of course, these are also part of the seatpost crack issue. Mine never cracked and rode great but two things to watch for on the seatpost. 1. Make sure that when you adjust the post that you have at least half inch showing through the bottom to distribute the weight better, no less than that. 2. try to balance out the saddle (fore and aft) on the seatpost. If you place it too far back you will be putting unnecessary strain on that weld. Have a great time with that frame, it was definitely one of my favorite bikes to ride. I had mine weighing 24 lbs which was unheard of for a full suspension bike in the early 2000's.
    Still loving my GT's!! find me on the "GT Bike Group" page on FB. I hardly ever hang out in here anymore.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by gt jorgito View Post
    Don't know if you meant 63mm instead of 163mm. I used to have a 2001 Team frame and the longest fork you should run is a 80mm travel fork. Anything more than that it will really screw up the geometry and it won't handle right. Trust me, I tried running a 100mm and it never felt right. running a 180mm fork is like running 7 inches of travel when you should be running no more than 4 inches. Of course, these are also part of the seatpost crack issue. Mine never cracked and rode great but two things to watch for on the seatpost. 1. Make sure that when you adjust the post that you have at least half inch showing through the bottom to distribute the weight better, no less than that. 2. try to balance out the saddle (fore and aft) on the seatpost. If you place it too far back you will be putting unnecessary strain on that weld. Have a great time with that frame, it was definitely one of my favorite bikes to ride. I had mine weighing 24 lbs which was unheard of for a full suspension bike in the early 2000's.
    Yes I meant 63mm sorry it must have been a long day.

  69. #69
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    I ride a 100% stock 2001 idrive 4.0
    I bought it new then quit mtb'ing until just recently. Learning about shelf wear.
    I ride to make me like myself.

  70. #70
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    how is the ride of the I-Drive compared to an LTS? Anyone here ridden both?

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClayP View Post
    how is the ride of the I-Drive compared to an LTS? Anyone here ridden both?
    I didn't on the LTS, but I'd say rear wheel tracking on the climbs are so much better with an i-Drive. But a 4 bar linkage would be faster on rough terrain, since the i-Drive is kinda slow with the suspension design.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClayP View Post
    how is the ride of the I-Drive compared to an LTS? Anyone here ridden both?
    I was a GT dealer when the idrives came out and got to ride both LT's and idrives back to back, quite often.

    The LTS was only slightly more plush than the Idrive, since the LTS had about 1/2" more travel.

    The sensation of riding an Idrive after having ridden an LTS for so long, was that the Idrive just floated over terrain.

    The LTS had noticeable pedal feedback
    Last edited by iheartbicycles; 12-17-2011 at 01:18 PM.
    Stupid, but sometimes witty. Occasionally brilliant. Slow and fat though.

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  73. #73
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    I-drive 2004 geometry

    There is one I-drive 3 , model 2004, hanging from garage floor, waiting, maybe forever new parts. I had to disassemble poor bike, these parts which joins rear and front ends were badly worn out.And well served as this one was there were lots of (new) usefull parts in my newer bike...
    This GT is size S, I wonder if anybody has really measured seatpost and steering angles?

    Martti, Greetings from Finland, the real home of Santa Claus

  74. #74
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  75. #75
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    sorry to ask this here, but what is the story on the large bottom bracket? i think that has something to do with the iDrive, but what is the purpose, and how does it work?

    i like it when people come up with a new solution to an old problem. actually, i'm not even sure what problem they were trying to fix.

  76. #76
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    i-drive

    i-drive stands for independent drive. This was GT's solution to the problem of bicycles with a rear suspension affecting the drive train by slacking the chain when the suspension compresses, causing chain slap, dropped chains and inconsistent pedal motion. There is a small titanium i-beam that goes from the bottom of the down tube into the the larger "can" surronding the bottom bracket. When the suspension compresses, the i-drive rotates the inside of the "can" much like a headset rotates when you turn your handlebars. This makes it so the pedal motion or drive is now independent of the input from the suspension's motions.

  77. #77
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    Very cool. Thank you very much for explaining.

  78. #78
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    Sorry if this is the wrong place, but would this bike on cg be worth it?

    providence.craigslist.org/bik/2712098031.html

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by daringh View Post
    Sorry if this is the wrong place, but would this bike on cg be worth it?

    ♦♦♦ GT FULL SUSPENSION HYBRID / COMFORT BIKE-LIKE NEW
    On bikepedia.com : 2001 GT Timberline i-Drive

    Looks like a nice little cruiser for bike path. Just be sure to check everything good and that the frame has no cracks, especially at the welds of the seat tube area and main frame.

    And no, $300 for that bike is still way too much. Offer them $100 and see how it goes. FYI, I paid a like new GT XCR 3000, year 2000 model, for $350. And that bike was twice the price has this one new ($1500).

    David
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  80. #80
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    My 2000 GT i-2k special edition limited


  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    My 2000 GT i-2k special edition limited

    Sweet bike. I like that stand too. Infos ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  82. #82
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    Thanks! Yes it's my 2000 GT i-2k special edition i-drive...only made in limited quantities. USA made 6061 alu from the Santa Ana factory. Never was available to the general public but only for GT reps and selected dealers...based on the 99 XC frame.

    Fork: Rock Shox SID Hydra Air XC
    Rear Suspension: Rock Shox SID Dual Air
    Rims: Mavic CrossMax SL SSC w/ Exalith coating for V-brakes
    Crank/Gearset: Shimano XTR
    Brakes/Levers: Shimano XTR V-Brakes & Koolstop pads/XTR levers
    Headset: Chris King
    Stem: Thomson Elite
    Bars: Easton MonkeyLite CT2 carbon
    Seat: WTB Rocket-V
    Seat Post: original Syncros
    Tires: Specialized “The Captain” S-Works
    Grips: Lizard Skin
    Computer: Avocet 25

    Parts mostly considered outdated by today's standards but they still work great!

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Thanks! Yes it's my 2000 GT i-2k special edition i-drive...only made in limited quantities. USA made 6061 alu from the Santa Ana factory. Never was available to the general public but only for GT reps and selected dealers...based on the 99 XC frame.

    Fork: Rock Shox SID Hydra Air XC
    Rear Suspension: Rock Shox SID Dual Air
    Rims: Mavic CrossMax SL SSC w/ Exalith coating for V-brakes
    Crank/Gearset: Shimano XTR
    Brakes/Levers: Shimano XTR V-Brakes & Koolstop pads/XTR levers
    Headset: Chris King
    Stem: Thomson Elite
    Bars: Easton MonkeyLite CT2 carbon
    Seat: WTB Rocket-V
    Seat Post: original Syncros
    Tires: Specialized “The Captain” S-Works
    Grips: Lizard Skin
    Computer: Avocet 25

    Parts mostly considered outdated by today's standards but they still work great!
    Nice ride RX! As you know that frame made it into production in 2000' under a different model name. I special ordered one in 2000'. It was called an XCR-LE which was a limited produced frame, hence the LE insignia. It was also hand buillt in the Santa Ana plant which is where all the high end GT frames were built. Made out of Easton 6061 taperwalled aluminum. That frame was identical to yours but had a different parts build than yours. I would suspect yours was the prototype model or models that turned out to be the XCR-LE in 2000'
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-21-2012 at 04:39 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  84. #84
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    Here's my XCR 3000, hand-built in CA, model year 2000.
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Sorry but your 3000 was not "hand built' out of the Santa Ana plant. There was another GT plant in Cal. that the frames were machine made. And they used 7000 series aluminum not the premium Easton 6061 Taperwalled aluminum. Which shaved close to a pound off the frame weight compared to the 7000 series. Scroll up and look at the blue bike above. Do you see the "Ping Pong Paddle" sticker in black and red on the seat tower. That is an insignia that only the high end hand built frames out of the Santa Ana plant received. I know you are going to say Mabe my sticker is missing. Trust me I S/O my LE in 2000' and I know what models came out of that plant and the 3000 was definately not one of them. That's not to say your bikes not nice. In fact it looks brand new.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Nice ride RX! As you know that frame made it into production in 2000' under a different model name. I special ordered one in 2000'. It was called an XCR-LE which h was a limeted produced frame, hence the LE insignia. It was also hand buillt in the Santa Ana plant which is where all the high end GT frames were built. Made out of Easton 6061 taperwalled aluminum. That frame was identical to yours but had a different parts build than yours. I would suspect yours was the prototype model or models that turned out to be the XCR-LE in 2000'
    DIRTJUNKIE Yes you're right...the i-2K that I have is based off the XCR-LE ...well maybe it's based off the XCR-LE or reverse, the XCR-LE was based off of the i-2K. Both were Easton 6061 hand welded at the Santa Ana factory but I think the i-2K was indeed a prototype version with a different paint scheme and name that was given only to select few GT dealers and reps.

    Although my bike is a 2000 year (also indicated by the name i-2k), I believe it was based on a 1999 version of the frame that eventually led to the production XCR-LE frame. As you can see in this pic, my bike does not even have rear disc brake mount tabs welded on swingarm like some 2000+ XC frames even though it is considered a "2000".



    This leads me to believe it's a late 1999 prototype frame. Nevertheless, it's a rare frame and I have no intentions of letting it go anytime soon :-p I'll clean it up and post better detailed pics in a few weeks

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    DIRTJUNKIE Yes you're right...the i-2K that I have is based off the XCR-LE ...well maybe it's based off the XCR-LE or reverse, the XCR-LE was based off of the i-2K. Both were Easton 6061 hand welded at the Santa Ana factory but I think the i-2K was indeed a prototype version with a different paint scheme and name that was given only to select few GT dealers and reps.

    Although my bike is a 2000 year (also indicated by the name i-2k), I believe it was based on a 1999 version of the frame that eventually led to the production XCR-LE frame. As you can see in this pic, my bike does not even have rear disc brake mount tabs welded on swingarm like some 2000+ XC frames even though it is considered a "2000".



    This leads me to believe it's a late 1999 prototype frame. Nevertheless, it's a rare frame and I have no intentions of letting it go anytime soon :-p I'll clean it up and post better detailed pics in a few weeks
    Yep the Y-2k was the prototype that lead to the production version LE. The frames were identical except the disc brake tabs. The reason they didn't need the tabs was due to the Team GT cross country racers in 2000' were riding the y2-k. And due to XC race weights v-brakes were lighter hence the tabs were not needed. When they produced the LE for the public disc brakes were new and all the rage. So the production version Y2-K was named the LE and was sold with disc brakes. The next year 01' GT came out with a shorter travel longer toptube shorter seat stays XC race oriented Team and Race models. Both versions were hand built with Easton 6061 tubing at the Santa Ana plant. That was GTs last hoorahh before the "Big" Bankrupsy. I was a victim of that big deal. I broke my LE at the dreaded seattower six months in. GT warranteed me one of the last LE frames made. Well exactly six months later I had the same failure same spot. The bankruptcy just went through and I was S.O.L. Luckely my LBS stepped up and gave me a credit of $500 towards another brand frame. I had no choice even though the LE frame alone sold for $2000.00 I opted for an Intense frame for $2000.00 and had the parts swapped over. I lost $1500.00 due to the GT bankruptcy. I loved that LE and nothing rides like an early i-Drive. Take care of that sweet Y2-K.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-08-2012 at 06:24 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Last edited by Goinslo; 01-08-2012 at 07:13 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Yep the Y-2k was the prototype that lead to the production version LE. The frames were identical except the disc brake tabs. The reason they didn't need the tabs was due to the Team GT cross country racers in 2000' were riding the y2-k. And due to XC race weights v-brakes were lighter hence the tabs were not needed. When they produced the LE for the public disc brakes were new and all the rage. So the production version Y2-K was named the LE and was sold with disc brakes. The next year 01' GT came out with a shorter travel longer toptube shorter seat stays XC race oriented Team and Race models. Both versions were hand built with Easton 6061 tubing at the Santa Ana plant. That was GTs last hoorahh before the "Big" Bankrupsy. I was a victim of that big deal. I broke my LE at the dreaded seattower six months in. GT warranteed me one of the last LE frames made. Well exactly six months later I had the same failure same spot. The bankruptcy just went through and I was S.O.L. Luckely my LBS stepped up and gave me a credit of $500 towards another brand frame. I had no choice even though the LE frame alone sold for $2000.00 I opted for an Intense frame for $2000.00 and had the parts swapped over. I lost $1500.00 due to the GT bankruptcy. I loved that LE and nothing rides like an early i-Drive. Take care of that sweet Y2-K.
    Wow! thanks for that bit of info! I originally wanted to convert the bike to full disc brakes which isn't a problem on the front, but the rear arm has no brake tabs. I was looking around online to see if I could source an XC rear swingarm with the disc tabs because none of that disc brake adapter junk stuff would work with my current rear swingarm anyway...but now that I think about it, I do have something special and your bit of info about how Y2-k Team frames chose not to use disc brakes due to weight savings back in the day, I'm just gonna keep the bike setup the way it is and preserve the rarity of it. I guess I was bitten by the disc brake bug but in reality, my XTR V-brakes with the Exalith coated Mavic SSCs stop on a dime, better than mechanical discs and maybe even as well if not better than some hydro discs. Do you happen to have any old pics left of your XCR?

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    Yes I knew it! My blue i-2K above is the prototype version Easton 6061 hand welded frame that eventually led to the year 2000 production XCR-LE, but the frame design was based on the '99 XCR-1000 like Goinslo's white bike above, hence the non disc brake tab rear swingarm. Some interesting info guys. I learned a bit more about my bike today. Thanks!

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    1999 xcr-1000

    I bought this new in 1999. I have update a few parts over the last 2 years fork Magura Menja, Crossmax ST wheels, rear Cane Creek Cloud Nine shock. I didn't change the seat post for fear of the dreaded seat post clamp frame crack. I will ride it till I can't ride it anymore. I love this bike. Sorry for the low quality pics (cell phone pics).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00078-20110806-1058.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00132-20120108-2005.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00133-20120108-2006.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00134-20120108-2007.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00135-20120108-2008.jpg  


  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Wow! thanks for that bit of info! I originally wanted to convert the bike to full disc brakes which isn't a problem on the front, but the rear arm has no brake tabs. I was looking around online to see if I could source an XC rear swingarm with the disc tabs because none of that disc brake adapter junk stuff would work with my current rear swingarm anyway...but now that I think about it, I do have something special and your bit of info about how Y2-k Team frames chose not to use disc brakes due to weight savings back in the day, I'm just gonna keep the bike setup the way it is and preserve the rarity of it. I guess I was bitten by the disc brake bug but in reality, my XTR V-brakes with the Exalith coated Mavic SSCs stop on a dime, better than mechanical discs and maybe even as well if not better than some hydro discs. Do you happen to have any old pics left of your XCR?
    I totally agree with you on the rarity your Y2-K and if I were you I would leave it as original as possible. In fact due to the seattower issues would be afraid to ride it. Not for fear of injury but rather ruining such a fine peace of GT history. It belongs in a GT museum if one was ever developed. The Y2-K and the LE were the highlight of the old i-drives the best they ever made. The Team a year later was in that catagory but was of a shorter travel. And yes I do have old prints of my LE but have no way of scanning and uploading. I will dig them out and try to get them up.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    I totally agree with you on the rarity your Y2-K and if I were you I would leave it as original as possible. In fact due to the seattower issues would be afraid to ride it. Not for fear of injury but rather ruining such a fine peace of GT history. It belongs in a GT museum if one was ever developed. The Y2-K and the LE were the highlight of the old i-drives the best they ever made. The Team a year later was in that catagory but was of a shorter travel. And yes I do have old prints of my LE but have no way of scanning and uploading. I will dig them out and try to get them up.
    Now where exactly is the seat tower known to crack? I've ridden this bike everywhere and heard of other frames of the like cracking at the seatpost/tower but have yet to experience it and hope to never experience it! I can't replace this frame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Now where exactly is the seat tower known to crack? I've ridden this bike everywhere and heard of other frames of the like cracking at the seatpost/tower but have yet to experience it and hope to never experience it! I can't replace this frame.
    The seat tower is known to crack right near the seat clamp on the front. I have no way of posting a picture. But a guy named Eric posted a good shot of it in this thread. Go to the first page all the way at the bottom. The picture is of a blue bike. Look real close in front of the seat clamp. This is the same spot that both of my frames cracked. Oh and also you may want to check out further up that page. Another Guy posted a photo of his Y2-K.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Sorry but your 3000 was not "hand built' out of the Santa Ana plant. There was another GT plant in Cal. that the frames were machine made. And they used 7000 series aluminum not the premium Easton 6061 Taperwalled aluminum. Which shaved close to a pound off the frame weight compared to the 7000 series. Scroll up and look at the blue bike above. Do you see the "Ping Pong Paddle" sticker in black and red on the seat tower. That is an insignia that only the high end hand built frames out of the Santa Ana plant received. I know you are going to say Mabe my sticker is missing. Trust me I S/O my LE in 2000' and I know what models came out of that plant and the 3000 was definately not one of them. That's not to say your bikes not nice. In fact it looks brand new.
    Thanks. Just want to clarify a few points thought.

    1. I know about the Ping-pong sticker and the whole story already.

    2. I never said it was built in Santa Ana. I said in CA. I have the sticker on the left side chain stay that says "Designed and built in California USA". It never had the ping pong sticker anyway.

    3. This is a 6061 frame. Again, there's the sticker to prove it, right on the inside of the curve that join the top tube and seat tube.

    4. Thanks, my bike is really nice. And yes, it is pretty much in brand new condition. We just did a overhaul of the drive train today and we only have to get a new rd cable because the end frayed. And we ordered a new chain, because even if the stock one was still very good, we didn't want to waste time cleaning it after cleaning out the whole drivetrain. It has the original tires, brake pads, housing, grips, etc...

    We did put new tires (the stock ones still had about 40% life left, but my brother decided he wanted to do so), changed the shifters to the same Deore ones, because the gear optic display was broken on one and the other shifter had trouble. Then the plastic top cap of the stock stem broke due to wrong handling, so we put a nice RaceFace Deus XC stem. Then we had to change the i-drive bearings and crowns races due to 10 years without any maintenance into them, so sand made his way in. Everything else is like new. Even the fork stanchions are perfects. Not a single scuff or scratch. Paid the bike $350. Put in about $80 in upgrades, $150 in maintenance/repairs and countless hours of owner's care and love. The BB is showing some wear signs, but will hold for a while. Drive train has little wear, negligible. Ride quality is awesome

    My brother :
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326088585.750564.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Btw, here's why I don't own that bike myself. Long story short, i had a deal I couldn't pass on this bike while in the USA, so my dad paid cash (US currency) and I was supposed to paid him back when we get back home (Canada) because I didn't had a US bank account. He never wanted me to pay him back. Instead he gave it to my little brother for his 17th birthday present last year... And I gave him another GT bike too for his commuting now that he started college. So basically he got a hell of a bike for free while I had to work to pay my own bikes. At least I have someone to ride with.

    But he doesn't have a job yet, so when he got the i-drive bill, he started taking care way more of that bike

    So I'm teaching him how to ride, to wrench and to own a bike. Not always easy but at least I don't have to pay the bills. But since I'm doing most of the wrenching, tune ups, cleaning, etc on that bike, I take the liberty to call it mine around here

    Another shot of my bro. You can see the piece of junk I had to build up to ride trails with him instead of riding MY GT
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326089151.169407.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Wink

    David,



    OK your 3000 is a nice bike but you are wrong on one point. You said it was a 6061 frame. Your bike may have been built in Cal. but it wasn't hand built out of Santa Ana. Only the bikes that came from that plant used Easton 6061 taperwalled aluminum. If yours says 6061 it's not Easton taperwalled. There was another plant in Cal. that machine built frames using 7000 series and some 6061 but not (Easton taperwalled tubing) There was only a select few models that were hand built out of Santa Ana and the 3000 was not one. And high end ones out of that plant was the LE,Y2-k, STS Carbon, Team,Race and,a couple hardtails and a couple road bikes. As far as the "regular" GT i-drive line up goes out of the other Cal. plant. The model lineup is as follows from the top of the line to the bottom. The 1000 then 2000 then 3000 then 4000 and bottom was 5000. So you can see yours is in the middle. Keep in mind even the top of that line the 1000 was a whole pound different in frame weight to any of the i-drives coming out of Santa Ana. They used the regular 6061 (not Easton taperwalled) tubing on the 1000,2000 and your 3000.
    BTW good job on keeping her up and running.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-08-2012 at 11:56 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    OK your 3000 is a nice bike but you are wrong one point. You said it was a 6061 frame. Your bike may have been built in Cal. but it wasn't hand built out of Santa Ana. Only the bikes that came from that plant used Easton 6061 taperwalled aluminum. If yours says 6061 it's not Easton taperwalled. There was another plant in Cal. that machine built frames using 7000 series and some 6061 but not Easton taperwalled tubing. There was only a select few models that were hand built out of Santa Ana and the 3000 was not one. And high end ones out of that plant was the LE,Y2-k, STS Carbon, Team,Race and,a couple hardtails and a couple road bikes. As far as the "regular" GT i-drive line up goes. From the top of the line to the bottom. The 1000 then 2000 then 3000 then 4000 and bottom was 5000. So you can see yours is in the middle. Keep in mind even the top of that line the 1000 was a whole pound different in frame weight to any of the i-drives coming out of Santa Ana. They used the regular 6061 (not Easton) tubing on the 1000,2000 and your 3000.
    BTW good job on keeping g her up and running.
    I didn't say it was hand built in Santa Ana. But that it was hand built in CA. Might not totally hand built though. Here's the stickers attached. I was going on my memory, and I don't think it was hand-built like they would do in Santa Ana. I never said it was the Easton tubing either. It's 6061 heat treated aluminum. I know about the signification of the 3000, 2000,1000, etc. As far as I know, 3000 and 1000 frame were pretty much the same, except the color, not talking about components.

    And I take great prides in my GT's
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn3704_web.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn3703_web.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn3707_web.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn3720_web.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  99. #99
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    finishing up my sons GT Idrive team.

    I’ve seen the rear shock mounted in both directions on different Idrive bikes. Does it matter what direction it is mounted for performance.

    Also I would like to post pictures. What’s the easiest way? The Picture button asks for a URL, can I just grab a picture from "My Photos” or do I need to upload the photo somewhere first.

    Thanks
    Joe

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    David,
    Let me say that it's awesome what you are doing for your brother.
    Yes like I said earlier the 1000,2000 and 3000 were identical framewise. Just different components. They were machine built from Cal. With 6061 aluminum but "not" Easton 6061 "taperwall" tubing. Those frames used 6061 straight tubing. Granted these frames used a higher grade aluminum than the 4000 and 5000 models which were machine built with 7000 series aluminum.
    To give you some comparison the LE and Y2-k that were hand built out of Santa Ana using the Easton taperwall was a whole pound lighter than the 1000 in frame weight.
    Some other comparison your 3000 fully built cost a little over $600.00. The LE "frame only" cost $2000.00 and sold built for $3900.00. That's how much different it is to save a pound in frame weight they all had the same geometry.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-09-2012 at 05:46 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  101. #101
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    Anyone has tried to upgrade the rear shock to something more recent such as a Float or Monarch ?

    The current SID Dual-Air is great, but lack adjustability, like the rebound and speed compression. Maybe a lock-out too for when you ride flats ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  102. #102
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    No good

    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Anyone has tried to upgrade the rear shock to something more recent such as a Float or Monarch ?

    The current SID Dual-Air is great, but lack adjustability, like the rebound and speed compression. Maybe a lock-out too for when you ride flats ?
    I'm not sure what modern shocks will work. But my LE was speced out with a FOX Float RC. I can highly reccomended that shock and it has a lock out lever. Call or e-mail works best -this company they can hook you up and reccomend the best thiing to do. Push Industries - Home Be sure to ask if they have a rebuilt FOX you could buy.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-09-2012 at 09:42 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    I'm not sure what modern shocks will work. But my LE was speced out with a FOX Float RC. I can highly reccomended that shock and it has a lock out lever. Call this company they can hook you up and reccomend the best thiing to do. Push Industries - Home
    Yeah, I was thinking about giving them a call, but I'd prefer to see if anyone had tested other shocks before. I think even if I change the shock, it would be great to have it Push'd to match the low weight of my brother (around 120) and get it tine for the exact suspension rate and curve.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Anyone has tried to upgrade the rear shock to something more recent such as a Float or Monarch ?

    The current SID Dual-Air is great, but lack adjustability, like the rebound and speed compression. Maybe a lock-out too for when you ride flats ?
    I know its not a FOX or Rock Shox product and it may not be considered modern but the Cane Creek Cloud Nine I replaced my SID with, has been great. I set it up for a more plush ride, its very smooth has good rebound and compression adjustments as well as a lock out. I've been thoroughly impressed by it.

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    i havent been around on the forums in a while now, but i still ride my idrive 6.0, i think from '01 and i also have a DHi from about the same time peroid that i just built a couple years ago.

    here is my 6.0. it started life as the bottom of the barrel entry level idrive, the first bike i ever got from a bike shop. it was fire engine red and all cheap components. i had to strip the paint to fix a crack in the frame and i figured, what better time to give a complete overhual. its fairly well equipped, been constantly upgrading since i got it. makes for a nice mid range all mountain ride now, still my go-to rig.


    hmm, i thought i had a pic of the DHi, guess not, lol.

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    That pic makes me want to raw my 6.0. I'd like to see that eccentric DHI too, don't see too many of those around.

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    Subrally...where did the bike crack and was it easy to repair? very impressive looking bike btw...can you post more up-close pics of different angles? I love the old i-drives but maybe it's because i'm a bit biased
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    On bikepedia.com : 2001 GT Timberline i-Drive

    Looks like a nice little cruiser for bike path. Just be sure to check everything good and that the frame has no cracks, especially at the welds of the seat tube area and main frame.

    And no, $300 for that bike is still way too much. Offer them $100 and see how it goes. FYI, I paid a like new GT XCR 3000, year 2000 model, for $350. And that bike was twice the price has this one new ($1500).

    David
    Found a Timberline Idrive on Craigslist for $100. It was stock and probably not worth any more. I added about $350 in upgrades. Well worth the project bike if you have time and money. Frame is a little heavier than my 03 GT idrive 1.0, but the seat post frame is made stronger. I have thrown everything at this bike, and it keeps on rolling! Cheers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Subrally...where did the bike crack and was it easy to repair? very impressive looking bike btw...can you post more up-close pics of different angles? I love the old i-drives but maybe it's because i'm a bit biased
    i have some side shots of the bike. but nothing close up of the repair. the cracks were in the swing arm near the shock mount area. i think there might have been another crack on the seat post as well, but its been a while and i dont quite remember as well as i would like, lol.


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    ill try to get some shots of the DHi this weekend if i can. i dont usually get home until after dark, so its hard t oget into the shed to get the bike during the week.

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    Quote Originally Posted by subyrally View Post
    i have some side shots of the bike. but nothing close up of the repair. the cracks were in the swing arm near the shock mount area. i think there might have been another crack on the seat post as well, but its been a while and i dont quite remember as well as i would like, lol.

    Nice! I really like the look of raw polished aluminum, but my bike is a limited year and paint scheme so it's probably better to just leave it blue
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    The GT frames are naturally good looking. And, a raw or polished frame is beautiful. Put the two together and you have a guaranteed knockout.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Yeah, I was thinking about giving them a call, but I'd prefer to see if anyone had tested other shocks before. I think even if I change the shock, it would be great to have it Push'd to match the low weight of my brother (around 120) and get it tine for the exact suspension rate and curve.
    I've contacted them and they said they don't work on any SID shock. Plus they said they wouldn't be able to provide me with a seal kit or any maintenance parts to service the shock. They said this was too old for them. But I'm sure I can get my lbs to find the parts I need. The shock's shaft is not damaged, but I have a very small loss of air over months, plus it's making creaking noise when compressing, which make me think it should be time for new seals, fluid, o-rings and dust wipers after a 12 years of operation. I would like to upgrade the shock itself to get at least rebound, but money is an issue as the expense being onerous. Did anyone know what could the price be about for at least a seal kit ? I know Push sells a seal kit for the Fox Float shocks for $15, but it's not a Fox I need. I think I could have the parts number, but then I need a database to enter them to find them anyway.

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Try these guy for your suspension needs.

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    I had my Fox rear shock PUSHed and it was a great investment. Too bad they don't service older SIDs. Good luck.
    Still loving my GT's!! find me on the "GT Bike Group" page on FB. I hardly ever hang out in here anymore.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gt jorgito View Post
    Try these guy for your suspension needs.

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    I had my Fox rear shock PUSHed and it was a great investment. Too bad they don't service older SIDs. Good luck.
    Thanks,

    I'll give them a call.

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Thanks,

    I'll give them a call.

    David,
    Did you ask Push about buying a rebuilt FOX shock from them? I think that some times they will do that. Yeah the FOX Float RC that my LE was speced out with worked flawlessly. It never lost air and was very plush and the lock out lever was easy to flip on the go. After my second frame cracked from the dreaded seatpost tower problem. That was at the big GT bankruptcy and I was forced to go with a different brand frame. I tried to get that shock returned to me but they refused. Saying it was part of the deal. I know damn well the shop manager scammed that shock off that frame for himself
    There was no more GT warrants at the time so it wasn't like the shock had to be returned with the frame to GT. The shop stood up and gave me $500 towards another brand frame. I just thought it was kinda weak that I wasn't allowed to keep the shock. If so, you would be welcome to it now in your situation.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    FormulaRX,
    Please don't even think about polishing that sweet Y2-K. Although I love the polished look and like someone else said the old i-drives were a perfect frame for that look. But the color combo your Y2-K and my LE received was extremely rare in GTs lineup. Only the hand built top of the line frames received the Team GT Race Colors of the dark blue and yellow. Out of ALL i-drives there were only THREE models that ever received that color combo. They were your non production Y2-K the LE and later in 01' the Team. Not only was that color combo used so rare but IMO the best color combo period. I would consistently get complements on that color. As you have I'm sure. Team GT
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    FormulaRX,
    Please don't even think about polishing that sweet Y2-K. Although I love the polished look and like someone else said the old i-drives were a perfect frame for that look. But the color combo your Y2-K and my LE received was extremely rare in GTs lineup. Only the hand built top of the line frames received the Team GT Race Colors of the dark blue and yellow. Out of ALL i-drives there were only THREE models that ever received that color combo. They were your non production Y2-K the LE and later in 01' the Team. Not only was that color combo used so rare but IMO the best color combo period. I would consistently get complements on that color. As you have I'm sure. Team GT
    Lol it was just a thought, but i'm not going to strip it down. The paint is surprisingly still in great shape and I don't even have any tape or downtube protectors or any of that stuff. I'm actually planning on taking the bike apart down to the frame to clean, regrease, and freshen everything up. Might even upgrade a few parts as i'm putting it back together. One thing I will not do is put the bike in storage. If the frame cracks, then I'll just have to get it rewelded but I'll worry about that if(when?) it happens ... fingers crossed I'm in the market for another bike soon but until that happens, the GT is my only bike and will have to do. I'm having a hard time trying to find someone to rebuild my SID fork...it's the earlier ones with the 28mm stanchions and was told it's too old to be serviced...sounds like some BS to me
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Lol it was just a thought, but i'm not going to strip it down. The paint is surprisingly still in great shape and I don't even have any tape or downtube protectors or any of that stuff. I'm actually planning on taking the bike apart down to the frame to clean, regrease, and freshen everything up. Might even upgrade a few parts as i'm putting it back together. One thing I will not do is put the bike in storage. If the frame cracks, then I'll just have to get it rewelded but I'll worry about that if(when?) it happens ... fingers crossed I'm in the market for another bike soon but until that happens, the GT is my only bike and will have to do. I'm having a hard time trying to find someone to rebuild my SID fork...it's the earlier ones with the 28mm stanchions and was told it's too old to be serviced...sounds like some BS to me
    Sounds good!
    About the fork is yours a SID SL? That is was what I had on the LE. Great fork but it was a little flexy. But that was due to it being built a half pound lighter than the XL. Anyway as far as it being too old to service I like you find it rather fishy. I don't get these companies I think they can still service them but are afraid of the liability after the item turns a certain length of time in age. It is the same with Alpine ski bindings. Either that or they are in with the companies that produce the item. In order to get us as consumers to buy new. Then we start the cycle all over again. I assume you contacted Push correct?
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    No I haven't...i was just asking around a few local shops. Mine is the SID XC ... yeah it's a little flexy but I think more so with disc brakes. I'm a little bit of a weight weenie when it comes to this bike, so that's why I want to keep this fork.
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Lol it was just a thought, but i'm not going to strip it down. The paint is surprisingly still in great shape and I don't even have any tape or downtube protectors or any of that stuff. I'm actually planning on taking the bike apart down to the frame to clean, regrease, and freshen everything up. Might even upgrade a few parts as i'm putting it back together. One thing I will not do is put the bike in storage. If the frame cracks, then I'll just have to get it rewelded but I'll worry about that if(when?) it happens ... fingers crossed I'm in the market for another bike soon but until that happens, the GT is my only bike and will have to do. I'm having a hard time trying to find someone to rebuild my SID fork...it's the earlier ones with the 28mm stanchions and was told it's too old to be servi yeah it's a little flexy but I think more so with disc brakes. I'm a little bit of a weight weenie when it comes to this bike, so that's why I want to keep this fork.
    Yeah that's what I meant SID XC not XL. Any way my brother has an XC on an older bike. My SID SL was a half a pound lighter. Both are great forks but flexy. Good luck with the rebuild process. Push??
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    I serviced a couple of my older SID's myself. Not hard at all when all the info is online. The hardest thing to change will be your teflon coated bushings if they are scratching your stanchions. I changed them in one of the forks and the other I didn't. All the o-rings and seals are easy to replace. If you are slightly mechanically inclined and enjoy stuff like that you will do fine.
    Still loving my GT's!! find me on the "GT Bike Group" page on FB. I hardly ever hang out in here anymore.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    David,
    Did you ask Push about buying a rebuilt FOX shock from them? I think that some times they will do that. Yeah the FOX Float RC that my LE was speced out with worked flawlessly. It never lost air and was very plush and the lock out lever was easy to flip on the go. After my second frame cracked from the dreaded seatpost tower problem. That was at the big GT bankruptcy and I was forced to go with a different brand frame. I tried to get that shock returned to me but they refused. Saying it was part of the deal. I know damn well the shop manager scammed that shock off that frame for himself
    There was no more GT warrants at the time so it wasn't like the shock had to be returned with the frame to GT. The shop stood up and gave me $500 towards another brand frame. I just thought it was kinda weak that I wasn't allowed to keep the shock. If so, you would be welcome to it now in your situation.
    Side note here, I'm speaking for my brother, since it's his bike and he's the one who deal with the bills and he don't have a job yet.

    No, I didn't ask them about the Fox, because it would have been too expensive to get a new shock. I'm trying to find the parts I need, like the o-rings and air seals (like the Fox kit below). That's a shame too that guy didn't want to let you have the shock... Weak service. I'll be mad at him too... Anyways.

    The shock itself is still plenty good, just needs maintenance. I got the new chain (KMC X9.99) and a SS rd cable yesterday. So now we'll get the annual tune-up done And I got myself SD 7 levers

    But is the stock shock on the XCR tuned for the i-drive or just factory tuned ? Because if I ever put a new rear shock I would like to know if it needs to get custom valving to match the suspension curve.

    Thanks,

    David
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-prod-52-img-250-s2-40.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    This bike looks like it could use a nice polishing job... Plus the price isn't too bad.

    GT I-Drive 1.0 Full Suspension bike with Disc brakes

    GT I-Drive 1.0 Full Suspension bike with Disc brakes - $450 (Bend)

    Date: 2012-01-12, 12:49AM PST

    GT I-Drive 1.0 mountain bike size Large. Bike is in good condition. Has scratches from normal use and a bike rack. Bike has Shimano Deore and Alivio components, disc brakes, Rock Shox SID rear air shock, Rock Shox Psylo Race air fork, etc.
    Selling to buy hardtail. Asking $450 obo Call (XXX) XXX-XXX.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn0800.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn0797.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn0799.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn0798.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    David you lost me. When you say xcr that is just a prefix to most i-drive model names. As far as a FOX shock I don't know if there would be any special valving. Just the eye to eye needs to be the same. There is a gauge that comes with an I-drive to set the sag correct to rider weight. But that should be used with any shock you choose. Well GT georgito says he has rebuilt a few SIDs and said it's not too difficult. So maybe that would be your best route.
    GT georgito do you still have your 01' Team? If not what happened? Please tell me it wasn't part of the dreaded "seat tower" failure.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Well, when I say XCR, I'm talking about the 2 first i-drive generations ('99 and '00). Off course the 2001 and up i-drive are the same as XCR.

    I know to adjust sag, but do you know the amount of SAG recommended for the i-drive ? I'm thinking ~15% here.

    And GT Gorgito was talking about fork I believe ? I have the 2000 RS service manual on PDF already, but not the parts yet and not the spanner wrench to unscrew the air can.

    Any tips on the SID rear shock would be appreciated. Model year 2000.

    Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    That is a 2001' 1.0 and it came from the factory polished. Every thing on that bile is exactly the way it came originally. And $450 is a pretty good deal. That is the first i-drive that came polished. GT before the i-dtives were commonly polished from the factory. Buy this was a first for the i-drive.
    And 2001' was the last year for the old i-drives.
    And the 1.0 was at the top of the line for the 4.6" i-dtives in 01'.
    The very top of the line for 01' was the hand built out of Santa Ana models/ the Team and Race frames.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Well, when I say XCR, I'm talking about the 2 first i-drive generations ('99 and '00). Off course the 2001 and up i-drive are the same as XCR.

    I know to adjust sag, but do you know the amount of SAG recommended for the i-drive ? I'm thinking ~15% here.

    And GT Gorgito was talking about fork I believe ? I have the 2000 RS service manual on PDF already, but not the parts yet and not the spanner wrench to unscrew the air can.

    Any tips on the SID rear shock would be appreciated. Model year 2000.

    Thanks.
    David are you thinking of buying that 1.0? Did you read my above post about it? That bike is so original I doubt it's been abused. It also is the first i-drive that came with a 100mm fork and tubeless wheel set. The only thing I see that isn't original is the seat,tires and pedals. A sweet deal for $450.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    David are you thinking of buying that 1.0? Did you read my above post about it? That bike is so original I doubt it's been abused. It also is the first i-drive that came with a 100mm fork and tubeless wheel set. The only thing I see that isn't original is the seat,tires and pedals. A sweet deal for $450.
    I would love having another i-drive, but I just stumble on this ad while googling info on SID shock. Plus I don't even checked where Bend is... I'm in Montreal Quebec if that matter.

    And I've checked bikepedia for that bike and according to them, this was supposed to be a XT/XTR build with Hayes hydro brakes... Nothing like the Deore/Alivio and Shimano mech brakes this bike has in the ad...

    But I'd still dig the frame. Only problem it's a large. I would need a medium ideally. The XCR 3000 we have is a large too, so it fits my brother barely since he has a big linger legs then me.

    And when I was talking about polishing that frame, it was because the job is like already done, just have to strip the decals and give it a buff.

    And another thing too. Just out of curiosity, I've checked the 2000 XCR 3000 specs on bikepedia, then checked the specs of the 1000 and 1500 model of the year 2000... Mine was a regular 6061 tubing, but on bikepedia, it shows the 1000 and 1500 as made out of elite 6061 tubing... Not saying you were wrong, but that bikepedia might be wrong then... Anyway
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I would love having another i-drive, but I just stumble on this ad while googling info on SID shock. Plus I don't even checked where Bend is... I'm in Montreal Quebec if that matter.

    And I've checked bikepedia for that bike and according to them, this was supposed to be a XT/XTR build with Hayes hydro brakes... Nothing like the Deore/Alivio and Shimano mech brakes this bike has in the ad...

    But I'd still dig the frame. Only problem it's a large. I would need a medium ideally. The XCR 3000 we have is a large too, so it fits my brother barely since he has a big linger legs then me.

    And when I was talking about polishing that frame, it was because the job is like already done, just have to strip the decals and give it a buff.

    And another thing too. Just out of curiosity, I've checked the 2000 XCR 3000 specs on bikepedia, then checked the specs of the 1000 and 1500 model of the year 2000... Mine was a regular 6061 tubing, but on bikepedia, it shows the 1000 and 1500 as made out of elite 6061 tubing... Not saying you were wrong, but that bikepedia might be wrong then... Anyway
    Well I didn't read the classified add on the 1.0. Just glancing at the picture on my tiny cell phone it looked to be very original. You had me curious so I dug up the original sales broshure for 2001'. That bike came with Hayes Hydraulic and XTR rear derailleur XT Crank and Cassette Like I said it also had Mavic Cross Rock tubeless rims.the fork is original and 100mm. I wad wrong saying it was the first 100mm on an i-drive. My buddy bought new back in the day a yellow year 2000' XCR-2000 that came stock with a SID 100mm.

    As far as the year 2000' XCR-1000 and 1500 they came with 6061 tubing not of Easton and not taperwalled and not hand built out of the Santa Ana plant. I compared frame weights on an LE and a 1000 back in the day and they were a half pound different in frame weight and one pound different built up, as sold factory built. This was due to the taperwall Easton tubing on the LE. What has always bothered me about this 5 year old thread is that the original poster has a year 2000' XCR-1000 and lists it as a 2001 model year. The huge majority of old i-drive owners these days are second third and fourth hand owners of them. And they either don't know what they have or they do but are unfamiliar with where thier bike falls in the GT lineup. I concider myself lucky to have purchased new the best GT ever had to offer i-drive wise before the bankruptcy. What was cool is back in 2000 and 2001'
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-15-2012 at 05:03 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Upset

    Continue of my above post due to cell phone wouldn't allow such a long post.
    Any way what was cool was back in 2000'-2001' and for several more years the trails were full of every model i-drive. They were a very popular bike and I have only seen two other LEs on the trail even to this day. The XCR-1000 was pretty common and many of those guys knew how special the LE was. They didn't or couldn't shell out the extra $2000.00 difference between the LE and 1000. The builds were not that far off it was the hand built Easrton taperwall tubing on the LE that made the cost so much different. That's what a half a pound in frame weight costs in terms of dollars.
    The 1000 was popular due to it being the top of the line on the sales floor. The LE was a special order bike and early on in 2000' was not on any salesfloor and few consumers even knew about it. When I purchased mine I. went in to one of the biggest bike shops at the time a warehouse bike shop called Supper Go. I told them I wanted an XCR-LE and they "all' were dumbfounded. None of them even the shop manager had heard of the LE. They thought the 1000 was the best GT made. They got their GT sales rep.on the line who informed them what it was. He said they were hand built out of Santa Ana and have just become available for purchase by special order only. So I placed my order and in two weeks it arrived. When I went to pick it up all the employees were in awe of it. Placing it next to a XCR-1000 and weighing the two the bikes as built were a pound different. About a year later that shop had an LE and a 1000 bare frame only. I had them weigh both side by side and the LE was a half a pound lighter. Hence the Easton Taperwall 6061 tubing. Like I said the 1000&1500&3000 were 6061 tubing not Easton taperwall and they were not hand built from Santa Ana but rather machine built out of another Cal. Plant from 6061 uniformed tubing.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-15-2012 at 04:02 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Thanks for the writing, but the only thing I was saying is why would Bikepedia list the 1000 and 1500 as Elite 6061 and the rest as regular 6061 ? Is it their mistake ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    ...The huge majority of old i-drive owners these days are second third and fourth hand owners of them. And they either don't know what they have or they do but are unfamiliar with where thier bike falls in the GT lineup. I concider myself lucky to have purchased new the best GT ever had to offer i-drive wise before the bankruptcy. What was cool is back in 2000 and 2001'
    DIRTJUNKIE Are you trying to find another old i-drive? I think since you have a soft spot for it, you should try to find one just to have in your garage for collection I'm sure they're hard to find but they're out there. BTW what happened with your LE frame? Did you chuck it after it cracked? It was probably repairable.

    Also, it's been a while and I don't remember the specs but can anyone tell me some info on my rear shock? Was this the same shock that came on your LE? ...and is my shock on backwards? It's always been like that but it seems backwards since a lot of the shocks I've seen have the smaller end mounted to the swingarm. thanks

    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Thanks for the writing, but the only thing I was saying is why would Bikepedia list the 1000 and 1500 as Elite 6061 and the rest as regular 6061 ? Is it their mistake ?
    When you say the rest which ones are they saying was 6061? This is what I know the 1000/1500/2000/3000 were regular uniformed 6061. They were all made out of Cal. By machine. The word elite should and should not have been used. Any 6061 aluminum is elite over 7000 series. They should of used that word for all of them or not at all. And just left that word for the hand built ones out of Santa Ana. Which used the Easton 6061 Taperwall.
    Edit: I just went on Bike Pedia and looked at my LE. Guess what they made TWO mistakes on the specs. They say it came speced with Syncros riser bars WRONG it came with Easton Monkeylite Carbon. They say it came with Ritchy pedals. WRONG it came with Time ATAC pedals. Those two items were part of that elite package. All other i-drives of 2000' came with Syncros aluminum riser bars and Ritchy pedals. So here is TWO mistakes I found on Bike Pedia just glancing at ONE bike.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-15-2012 at 11:19 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    [QUOTE=FormulaRX;8912753]DIRTJUNKIE Are you trying to find another old i-drive? I think since you have a soft spot for it, you should try to find one just to have in your garage for collection I'm sure they're hard to find but they're out there. BTW what happened with your LE frame? Did you chuck it after it cracked? It was probably repairable.

    Also, it's been a while and I don't remember the specs but can anyone tell me some info on my rear shock? Was this the same shock that came on your LE? ...and is my shock on backwards? It's always been like that but it seems backwards since a lot of the shocks I've seen have the smaller end mounted to the swingarm. thanks



    FormulaRX,
    Well if they didn't crack at the seat tower I would have an LE in my garage. I loved everything about that bike except the Formula disc brakes sucked. I didn't know how bad until my next biike I upgraded to HOPE Minis/ awesome brakes. I got those in 02' and I am still running them.
    As far as what happened to my LE frame I will explain again.
    My first frame cracked six months in. GT warranted me one of the last LEs made. My second frame broke exactly six months later "same" spot on the seat tower. It was too late GT had filed Bankruptcy and warrants were not being honored. I was screwed and raised hell after paying $4k. For that bike. Super Go stepped up and gave me $500 towards another brand frame. I had no choice I took the offer they kept the frame and shock. I asked for the shock and they said it was part of the deal. I never thought of it until now but I bet an employee welded that frame and scored a sweet ride. Bastards!
    About the SID shock on your bike. It's hard to say for sure due to it being a prototype frame. But there were other Y-2Ks and the ones I have seen have that shock. That was a funny time with GT they speced some models with SID and some with FOX. I think what happened was they used FOX in the nintys and then to SID and back to FOX. Anyway all the bikes that I have seen that came with SID were mounted that way. I always wondered why it may be due to cooling purposes. So IMO your shock is correct for that bike and mounted correctly.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-15-2012 at 10:58 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Thanks! and yes that sucks that you traded the frame in cuz I bet the bike shop guy just took it and maybe had it re-welded a little stronger at the crack and is still riding it today If mine cracks i'll just have it welded but hope it never does *knock on wood* ... just got back from the bike shop (which is also an authorized GT dealer) to have the rear wheel trued and some of the guys there were complimenting my bike. One of the older guys who still rides his Zaskar, calls one of the young techs over and says "look at this...this was THE bike of its day. Bet you've never seen anything like this before" ... Let's just say it put a smile on my face i'm never getting rid of this bike
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Thanks! and yes that sucks that you traded the frame in cuz I bet the bike shop guy just took it and maybe had it re-welded a little stronger at the crack and is still riding it today If mine cracks i'll just have it welded but hope it never does *knock on wood* ... just got back from the bike shop (which is also an authorized GT dealer) to have the rear wheel trued and some of the guys there were complimenting my bike. One of the older guys who still rides his Zaskar, calls one of the young techs over and says "look at this...this was THE bike of its day. Bet you've never seen anything like this before" ... Let's just say it put a smile on my face i'm never getting rid of this bike
    Sweet! Ya gotta love those complements. I know my LE got quite a few back in the day. I can imagine what people think today when they see it. As far as the color combo blue/yellow I don't know about you but even to this day it really sticks out in a crowd. Maybe it's the fact that it has that GT Race heritage behind it. Speaking of which I live in San Diego which is right down the road from Santa Ana (Orange County) a hotbed for GT before the bankruptcy. Anyway about a year ago I was on the freeway between here and there. Guess what pulls up next to me? An old enclosed 30' trailer full on blue and yellow Team GT from back in the day. Someone obviously picked it up at an auction post bankruptcy. As I passed I gave him the thumbs up. He in exchange returned the gesture all smiles. I just wish I had a chance to talk to him about it. What can I say I was seriously into those old i-drives.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    I've been a big fan of GT back since my BMX days when GT owned the sport. I live just 30 minutes from Santa Ana and many of the OC bike shops still have diehard GT guys working. I don't know if you are aware of Adrenaline Bike shop in Orange, CA but Gary Turner frequents that shop all the time but he's not really into talking much about GT these days...maybe it's a sore spot I guess lol.

    Anyway, how's this for ya? Found a pic while surfing the web. Man what I would give to have one as a spare...and apparently the the i-2K is a play on words i-drive + Y2K = i-2K even though the frame was introduced in 2001

    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    [QUOTE=FormulaRX;8913736]I've been a big fan of GT back since my BMX days when GT owned the sport. I live just 30 minutes from Santa Ana and many of the OC bike shops still have diehard GT guys working. I don't know if you are aware of Adrenaline Bike shop in Orange, CA but Gary Turner frequents that shop all the time but he's not really into talking much about GT these days...maybe it's a sore spot I guess lol.

    Anyway, how's this for ya? Found a pic while surfing the web. Man what I would give to have one as a spare...and apparently the the i-2K is a play on words i-drive + Y2K = i-2K even though the frame was introduced in 2001

    Nice!!! A spare hell I'd be happy with just one again. That frame wouldn't happen to be in the classifieds would it?

    Yes I have heard of Adrenaline bikes but have never been there. As far as the play on words I for some reason have always called it Y-2K when it's actually i2-k. Anyway you said it was introduced in 01'. It was a prototype that launched the LE in 2000'. So it must have been late 99' that it was out there. I remember after I bought my LE I would see pictures posted of the XC races and Team GT were riding the i-2k. I was conffused at the time seeing what looked to be my LE labeled different and having V-brakes. It was never launched to the public. But rather re-named the LE and disc brakes added for the consumer. I didn't put all this together til many years later. Too cool you are a lucky man and I hope the seat tower holds out until you are old and grey.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    I don't know, the pic was on some UK forums so if it even was for sale, shipping to get it here would be a lot ... i did a careful inspection of my bike today around the seatpost area and so far so good! No cracks...not even signs of paint crack. Welds still look fine. I guess I'm one of the lucky few to even have an i-2K and an intact one at that!
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    I don't know, the pic was on some UK forums so if it even was for sale, shipping to get it here would be a lot ... i did a careful inspection of my bike today around the seatpost area and so far so good! No cracks...not even signs of paint crack. Welds still look fine. I guess I'm one of the lucky few to even have an i-2K and an intact one at that!
    That's for sure yours could be the last one. Better put it away for that future GT museum.
    We have been so active on this thread lately all my LE memory's are flooding back. Like I said earlier over all these Years I have only seen two other LE's on the trail. One was way back in 02' when I had just built my Intense from the my last broken LE's frame. That is why I remember. It was one of my first rides on the Intense. Heading down a trail that is on your neck of the woods. The San Juan Trail. I just got back to the parking lot and a Guy was leaving with an LE in the back of the truck. The only other time was here in San Diego one flew by going downhill on Noble Canyon. I was on my Intense so he never even blinked and kept going. I would have liked to talk to him. Never during the time I rode the LE did I see another. That is how rare they are. And in today's world even more. Your i-2K is even more rare and yours is most definitely one of a select few left.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    I'm not going to put it away any time soon. I actually haven't been riding it in any crazy harsh conditions lately, which is why it still looks good. I enjoy riding it and it would be sad if I stored it somewhere and just looked at it. I'll post some high quality pics as soon as I finish cleaning it up ... you need to find and rebuild for yourself an old i-drive. Who cares about the cracked seatpost problem...just strip it down, beef up the welds and powdercoat the frame when you're done. Add top components and you've got a bike worthy of competing with the newest on the market. Do it! You know you want to
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Sir buggy,I made my gt I drive fix with fox talas 160 but my rear shock dhx 3 has a problem,let say broken and planning to change it with manitou swinger 6,question is if it will fit in my gt I drive?thanks

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    Hi All,

    I bought an idrive a few years ago - I think it's a medium but im starting to think its too small. I've had a look on the frame but I can't see any size on it. Could anyone tell me the frame measurements to identify what size it is?


    thanks.
    andy

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    FormulaRX,
    Something interesting for you to ponder. I was just looking through some old GT broshures that I have. I am looking at the original.al 2001' broshure. Well there is a photo of a Team GT XC racer obviously running the 2000' race circuit. He is riding a 2000' XCR-LE or possibly a i-2K it is painted in the LE blue yellow paint scheme. But it is running. V-brakes rather than disc that the LE came with. And also it has a SID shock rather than the FOX. I wish I could make out the model name on the toptube. It is defiantly a race prototype frame that has the LE paint. I have no doubt in my mind that the i2-K and. LE were one in the same. The i-2K being the prototype that lead to the LE production model. Too cool! I wish I could scan this photo out of the broshure for you.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    FormulaRX,
    Something interesting for you to ponder. I was just looking through some old GT broshures that I have. I am looking at the original.al 2001' broshure. Well there is a photo of a Team GT XC racer obviously running the 2000' race circuit. He is riding a 2000' XCR-LE or possibly a i-2K it is painted in the LE blue yellow paint scheme. But it is running. V-brakes rather than disc that the LE came with. And also it has a SID shock rather than the FOX. I wish I could make out the model name on the toptube. It is defiantly a race prototype frame that has the LE paint. I have no doubt in my mind that the i2-K and. LE were one in the same. The i-2K being the prototype that lead to the LE production model. Too cool! I wish I could scan this photo out of the broshure for you.
    hmmm lots of mystery surrounding the origins of the XCR-LE & i-2k frames...I think GT was experimenting with a mixture of both V-brake and disc version rear swingarms around 2000/2001 ... i'm interested in any bits of info you can provide for me. If you can scan it, that'd be awesome! if not, how about just a high res picture? My i-2k has SID fork and rear shock. From what you are saying, it seems to me that only the early i-2k or the actual race team's i-2k frames used the rear V-brake swingarm. Were any LE frames available to the public with rear V-brakes or were all the original i-drive frames only available with rear disc? What I really mean is did all original i-drive rear swingarms come with disc brake tabs? My i-2k does not even have the disc tabs on the swingarm and therefore V-brakes are the only brakes that I can use.

    Anyway, the big questions i'm wondering about...is my i-2k a 2000 or '01?
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Better hurry up ! I'm bidding on it tomorrow if you font get it Dirty J's !
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Better hurry up ! I'm bidding on it tomorrow if you font get it Dirty J's !
    yea hurry up before I change my mind...I might need a spare frame and I'm only 30 minutes away from the seller so I can just stop by and scoop it up...free shipping!
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    yea hurry up before I change my mind...I might need a spare frame and I'm only 30 minutes away from the seller so I can just stop by and scoop it up...free shipping!
    Gosh, that frame for 600 cookies is cheap !
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Gosh, that frame for 600 cookies is cheap !
    Yeah that's a rare find in this day and age. That IS a 2000' XCR-LE like the one I had. And like the seller says went for $4300 built up new. The frame itself new cost $2000.00. So yeah that is a killer deal and if I hadn't cracked two of those frames I myself would jump on it. Yes it was the best 4 6" i-drive ever produced. Hand made out of Santa Ana Easton 6061. That head tube badge was the only item I managed to get off my first warranty frame. It says Limited production hand built Santa Ana CA.
    David or RX if you are willing to pay knowing it will eventually crack as will the i-drives you are currently on go for it. It can be welded. But if you are in the market for another i-drive this is the holy Grail as it weighs .5lbs less than the other 4.6 " travel i-drives.
    RX,
    Getting back to your question. Your bike the i-2K is a prototype. A race bike they used in late 99'- through 2000'. It is identical to the production year 2000' LE. They didn't t have a need for disc brakes as a race bike due to weight. When they took that frame to production in 2000' they added disc brakes gave it a slightly different paint scheme. They kept the theme of Team GT blue/yellow and re-named it the LE instead of i-2K. The SID shock was replaced with FOX due to a contract change back to FOX. All GT's in 2000' were spec d with FOX.
    Your i-2k being a prototype race bike would fall into a 1999' 1/2 model year. If I were you I would leave it as original al with V- brakes.
    That's funny becauue the one item that was used on the LE that sucked were the Formula disc brakes. They would always rub. And I needed to shim the calipers to prevent it. And even that wouldn't last very long before I had to start all over again. On my next ride I went with Hope Minis and couldn't be happier. I am still running the same set ten years later.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-22-2012 at 10:02 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Well if you can get the frame welded back if it cracks, why won't you buy it anyways ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Well if you can get the frame welded back if it cracks, why won't you buy it anyways ?
    Because I'm not in the market for another bike. If I had $600 burning a hole in my pocket I would buy it. I'm not trying to discourage anyone from buying it. It is an awesome bike except the seat mast failure issue. That all the i-drives are prone to. But I have heard (on these forums) of people who have had it welded after the failure. Which would be interesting to hear feedback post welding it. But I weighed 205lbs at that time
    A lighter rider may never have the seat mast failure issue. And if you are dead set on another i-drive you best grab this one as it it the best GT ever made.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-22-2012 at 11:00 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  154. #154
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    Something else that was never mentioned here. The "dog bone" which is the small brace that holds the eccentric in the canister of the i-drive was made of titanium on the LE. Whereas on all other i-drives besides the 2001' Team it was made from steel. I'm sure the i-2K had the titanium "dog bone" as well.
    titanium
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  155. #155
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    My i-2k frame is M size...this LE frame is L...someone snatch it up quick! It's too big for me. I weigh only 160lb so I have never had a problem with my frame cracking...and yeah my bike with V-brakes and Koolstop pads stop better than mechanical discs
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    My i-2k frame is M size...this LE frame is L...someone snatch it up quick! It's too big for me. I weigh only 160lb so I have never had a problem with my frame cracking...and yeah my bike with V-brakes and Koolstop pads stop better than mechanical discs
    I'm 110 and a Large is what my brother have right now, and it's definitively too big even for him. He managed to ride it even, but would be better off a Medium frame.

    Yeah, and I'm pretty sure the whole i-drive system on the higher end frame was also made with lighter material, which could also explain the weight difference. I know the 1999 models had the inner races made out of steel, while the 2000 were alu, so that's definitively a major weight saver. I always though the only weakness of those i-drive bike was the weight of the assembly, which was the reason they modified it, but if you made all those parts out of Ti, that thing would be the ultimate XC race bike ! I could take those $600 and buy Ti and machine the wholes parts and make the frame 15lbs lighter
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  157. #157
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    DirtJunkie...it's the perfect bike for u. It's too big a frame for Dave or myself. You might not need it now, but u will prob want to build one in the future. Snatch it up and hold onto it til ur ready! These frames don't come around everyday
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    DirtJunkie...it's the perfect bike for u. It's too big a frame for Dave or myself. You might not need it now, but u will prob want to build one in the future. Snatch it up and hold onto it til ur ready! These frames don't come around everyday
    RX & Dave,
    That's too bad it's too big for you guys, I was hoping of you would have latched on to it. And yes it is a Large which is exactly what mine was and fit me perfect. And you are right I doubt this opportunity of any LE in that kind of shape will ever come along again. But unfortunately.things are super tight with me financially right now. If I were to jump my girl may kick me out.
    What was that link again?
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    RX & Dave,
    That's too bad it's too big for you guys, I was hoping of you would have latched on to it. And yes it is a Large which is exactly what mine was and fit me perfect. And you are right I doubt this opportunity of any LE in that kind of shape will ever come along again. But unfortunately.things are super tight with me financially right now. If I were to jump my girl may kick me out.
    What was that link again?
    Well you can always come ride it with us meanwhile

    I would love to get that frame, but due to not being the right size, I would not be able to enjoy it as much as deserved. Btw, did you heard about MoneyMart.com ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    David C I don't remember you mentioning what bike you own...is it an i-drive as well? And yes if XCR was M size, i would totally snatch it up right away. It's in almost new condition and I would't have to pay anything for shipping since it's located just half an hour from me. I wouldnt know what to do with a large sized frame ... maybe i'll just buy it and when you're mentally and financially ready DirtJ, just hit me up and it'll be here for you
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    David C I don't remember you mentioning what bike you own...is it an i-drive as well? And yes if XCR was M size, i would totally snatch it up right away. It's in almost new condition and I would't have to pay anything for shipping since it's located just half an hour from me. I wouldnt know what to do with a large sized frame ... maybe i'll just buy it and when you're mentally and financially ready DirtJ, just hit me up and it'll be here for you
    Thanks RX but mentally I'm all there, so I've been told.
    It's the financial part that's just not lined up right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    David C I don't remember you mentioning what bike you own...is it an i-drive as well? And yes if XCR was M size, i would totally snatch it up right away. It's in almost new condition and I would't have to pay anything for shipping since it's located just half an hour from me. I wouldnt know what to do with a large sized frame ... maybe i'll just buy it and when you're mentally and financially ready DirtJ, just hit me up and it'll be here for you
    It's a '00 XCR 3000 Large. Was supposed to be mine, but my lil' brother now owns it.

    I might be in the market for another XCR or i-drive from '00-'01 in medium size to add an XC bike to my armada since I might not be able to switch my FR frame to an AM any soon. But I would buy in person, not online to give the bike a full inspection prior to purchase. Looking into the $400 range. Like that i-drive 1000, polished one would be killer. One thing I'm concerned with is the i-drive assembly itself, as it needs to be maintain on a regular base, and I don't want to end up paying the $120 bill for new races and bearings. Everything else can be checked easily. Even just a frame alone, as I already have all the parts for a 4" trail bike. Not much going on around here, but I've seen a few good deals on XCR's, i-drive's and STS/LTS from times to times. Might worth setting up an google alert or such.

    My dream XCR (or i-drive) would be either a 2000-2001, with SID fork, BB7 w/SD 7 levers, 160/140, good wheelset, 2.1 Tioga Factory Extreme XC tires, 2x10 drivetrain. Full RaceFace Deus XC cockpit, crank and seat post with SRAM shifter/ders. KMC TiNi gold chain, Push'd RP23, super thin flats, color matched housing. Bling hardware.

    Think I would need to do a lot of Photoshop to transform one into that description meanwhile if you don't get it yet
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Good job!

    Awww man only two hours left to bid. 0 bids so far.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Once in a lifetime! It has your name written all over it DirtJ...i'd hate to see it just end up with someone who has no appreciation for it. For me, if only that frame were M size...
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    I opt out of this one guys. The frame is too big for me, but time is ticking down...someone PLEASE pull the trigger !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    I opt out of this one guys. The frame is too big for me, but time is ticking down...someone PLEASE pull the trigger !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Ok, put $400 and I'll shoot the last $100, you pick it up and I'll come down there to ride with y'all
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  168. #168
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    PssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssT

    This one's losing air quick.....
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  169. #169
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    no go for me...this one's either you or dave ...time's winding down
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

  170. #170
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    No freakin' bid !

    We need to watch it real good for the relisting ! If we're lucky it's gonna be $300 obo !
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  171. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    no go for me...this one's either you or dave ...time's winding down
    Wow! That was a painful couple of hours.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Wow! That was a painful couple of hours.
    So did you managed to sell your parents meanwhile to afford this frame for the relist ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  173. #173
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    lol why am i upset? i wasn't gonna buy it anyway...just wanted to see if any of you guys would jump on it ... if/when it relists, better snatch it up DirtJ...it's just your size too
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

  174. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    lol why am i upset? i wasn't gonna buy it anyway...just wanted to see if any of you guys would jump on it ... if/when it relists, better snatch it up DirtJ...it's just your size too
    Trust me I still feel the pain. It's like someone kicked me in the stomach.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Trust me I still feel the pain. It's like someone kicked me in the stomach.
    Oh, that was me. Don't worry
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  176. #176
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    The size of my frame is 20inches from centre of crank to top of seat post would that make it a large?
    thanks

  177. #177
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    Wow,I bought a 2000 GT XCR-5000 2 years ago mint condition and 2 additional GT's in the process(02 timberline ltd,11 korakoram 3.0 and a old 95 Pantera frame) I read numerous posts saying it was not worth building up,but within this thread I see that there is plenty of support for this frame.very reassuring thanks!
    andyhill1982, I believe you have a medium size frame.
    Last edited by VChuck; 01-28-2012 at 05:36 PM.

  178. #178
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    Hey guys, look what I found today on the 'bay !


    GT i-drive Eccentric Cups, Seals and Bearing kit

    Brand new, not the heavy steel ones, only $40 ???

    My brother had to pay about $120 for all those at the lbs when he had to change them last fall.

    So two things :

    1. We got screw by the lbs charging full MSRP and having to wait 3 weeks for the parts (which is normal for the lbs to charge MSRP).

    2. This kit at $40 isn't worth sh#t.

    If option #1 is the good one, then that thing could come handy
    Last edited by David C; 01-26-2012 at 01:49 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  179. #179
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    My question is how do I even know my idrive is going bad? Is it something u see or feel? Mine seems ok but I might buy the kit just in case
    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    My question is how do I even know my idrive is going bad? Is it something u see or feel? Mine seems ok but I might buy the kit just in case
    Well think of it like a big headset. You got the bearing crowns, inner and outer races.

    GT recommended to do a cleaning of the i-drive to like each 25 hours or so, I don't remember exactly. So since I didn't know when was the last time maintenance was done on that bike, we brought it in to my lbs to get it cleaned up. So they found out the races had scuffs and nicks due to grit entering the system. If we had left it that way, it could have get worse. Other then that, since that i-drive don't rotate much, it's not very easy to feel any kind of grind.

    If you plan on keeping your bike, I'd said it worth the shot to at least have the parts on hand if needed next time you service your i-drive. Just make sure it's the right kit btw. I can't confirm anything on the compatibility of this one. So do your homework first

    I have a link of the service guide, but it's in French

    http://xxxophe78.free.fr/repIdrive.php3

    Found that a while ago. Might have an English guide somewhere on the web too. Lucky, my mech at my lbs is a dead fan of the i-drive. When the '00 came out, it was his dream bikes.

    So he's happy to work on them and knows a lot on the i-drive service procedure.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  181. #181
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    Sorry guys I left the building for a few days. I had to get my head and thoughts together along with mourning my loss.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  182. #182
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    Hey guys my brothers birthday is coming up and I want to buy him a GT. He's always liked mine and I want to get him something so that he can ride with me. I found this ad on craigslist but the price seems steep. What do you guys think a 2006 GT I Drive 4.0 is worth? Mind you the owner says it has never been used.

    GT I drive 5

  183. #183
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    Definitely steep. You can get a better bike new for that price (a gt too) Nashbar - Full Suspension I doubt it will last long at that price though.

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyhill1982 View Post
    The size of my frame is 20inches from centre of crank to top of seat post would that make it a large?
    thanks
    Yes!
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  185. #185
    VChuck
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    well I stand corrected,
    Hey DIRTJUNKIE while your still here you think a team Idrive for 500 bucks worth it (I am not sure what year but I think 2001 ,had manitou shocks fr/r Team blue/yellow
    sorry could not post link,being a noob to the forum
    just had my 02 GT timberline commuterwith new michelin pilot's ripped off this afternoon
    . made a deal with the dude to hold it for me whaddya think?oh it's in mint condition. thanks

  186. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by VChuck View Post
    well I stand corrected,
    Hey DIRTJUNKIE while your still here you think a team Idrive for 500 bucks worth it (I am not sure what year but I think 2001 ,had manitou shocks fr/r Team blue/yellow
    sorry could not post link,being a noob to the forum
    just had my 02 GT timberline commuterwith new michelin pilot's ripped off this afternoon
    . made a deal with the dude to hold it for me whaddya think?oh it's in mint condition. thanks

    Looks like a good deal. A frame alone new was running for that price (the team version or similar). You can post the link, just put like a space somewhere in the URL, so we'll just remove it and going check it by ourselves. Do something like : www google com
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  187. #187
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    Yo Dave and DIRT, got some pics up of the cleaned up bike. Lemme know what you think

    http://forums.mtbr.com/gt/heres-my-g...ve-766752.html

    2000 GT i-2K...the original i-drive

  188. #188
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    Nice one
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  189. #189
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    Sounds like great deal for an 01' Team. The frame alone cost $2000.00 back in the day.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  190. #190
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    I'll second that!!
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  191. #191
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    I'll second that!!
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  192. #192
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    I'll post it up as soon as I have enough posts, nice bikes....

    posted in the other thread too. Still riding it, original owner. Looking to move on soon though, but I'll keep it around.

    <a href="https://s1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/EEEliminator/?action=view&amp;current=photo.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/EEEliminator/photo.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

  193. #193
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    How do the air shocks compare with the coil? Is the ride any softer? I've always found the coil to be a bit harsh, however I keep reading about how coils are really plush.

  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by EEEliminator View Post
    How do the air shocks compare with the coil? Is the ride any softer? I've always found the coil to be a bit harsh, however I keep reading about how coils are really plush.
    The main difference between both is the air is progressive and coil is linear. Think about the air one as a big balloon. More you compress it between your hands, harder it gets, but the beginning is easy while the end is like impossible. Then it will go back fast once you release it. Harder you compress, faster it will expend back. Spring is linear in both way.

    Now you can have air shock that feels like spring (DHX air 5.0) or spring that can feel like air (most high end ones like CCBB or Vivid). With all the uber super tuning adjustments, you can achieve very similar feel with both. But a coil one stiff more tunable on the damping. Air are lighter. A lot of personal preference too. They say you should try to keep it air/air or coil/coil (air fork and shock or coil fork and shock) to keep the bike balanced and easier to tune the suspension action. I think air shock really have their place on XC to AM bikes, but FR and DH could really use coil.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  195. #195
    VChuck
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    Sorry for late reply, I was taking possesion of 97 GT Zaskar ball burnished,mint condition with all original components to replace my 02 timberline ltd.that was stolen.That 97 Zaskar is the bike I wanted most of my life! whoo hoo!
    that 01 team I drive did'nt last long,the dude must have sold it the same day I posted about it.,he pulled the CL ad.aw well.

  196. #196
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    I should check in here more often. It's been a loooooong time. Anyhow, several people mentioned the crack issue and I wanted to throw in my two cents, for what it's worth.
    First, I bought my 2000 XCR1000 with the crack already on the post. Had it welded almost 3 years ago. Since then I've put thousands of miles on the bike (I also use it as my commuter to work) and have never seen a sign of a crack again.
    I have heard theories about the cause of the crack, such as the clamp was too close to the weld or people were raising and lowering their seats too much, but at interbike this year a guy at the campy booth told me the reason for the failure was stress from people shortening their seatposts or setting them up higher than the bottom of the seat tube. I hadn't heard that before but it made sense. Since then, every picture I've ever seen with a bike with the crack has the seatpost higher than the bottom of the seat tube.
    Anyhow, thought I'd throw that out there for those who are considering buying one of these (I still think mine is the best of the well over 20 bikes I've owned) or anyone who is trying to avoid having it happen to theirs.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmdj View Post
    I should check in here more often. It's been a loooooong time. Anyhow, several people mentioned the crack issue and I wanted to throw in my two cents, for what it's worth.
    First, I bought my 2000 XCR1000 with the crack already on the post. Had it welded almost 3 years ago. Since then I've put thousands of miles on the bike (I also use it as my commuter to work) and have never seen a sign of a crack again.
    I have heard theories about the cause of the crack, such as the clamp was too close to the weld or people were raising and lowering their seats too much, but at interbike this year a guy at the campy booth told me the reason for the failure was stress from people shortening their seatposts or setting them up higher than the bottom of the seat tube. I hadn't heard that before but it made sense. Since then, every picture I've ever seen with a bike with the crack has the seatpost higher than the bottom of the seat tube.
    Anyhow, thought I'd throw that out there for those who are considering buying one of these (I still think mine is the best of the well over 20 bikes I've owned) or anyone who is trying to avoid having it happen to theirs.
    Great to get some feedback on how a welded one is holding up. As for the guy with the theory about the seatpost being cut too short. That would cause that area to fail. But that is not what happened in the this case. Both of my frames that failed I had 1" of seatpost sticking out the bottom of the frame. That was when the seat was at it's highest postition. It was just a weak point in that frame design. Possibly caused by lowering and raising the post numerous times. But even so that should not happen and it is a design flaw. That area should have been beefed up more. And I'm sure it would have been if GT didn't go bankrupt right after the 2001' model launch.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 02-24-2012 at 05:38 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  198. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Great to get some feedback on how a welded one is holding up. As for the guy with the theory about the seatpost being cut too short. That would cause that area to fail. But that is not what happened in the this case. Both of my frames that failed I had 1" of seatpost sticking out the bottom of the frame. That was when the seat was at it's highest postition. It was just a weak point in that frame design. Possibly caused by lowering and raising the post numerous times. But even so that should not happen and it is a design flaw. That area should have been beefed up more. And I'm sure it would have been if GT didn't go bankrupt right after the 2001' model launch.
    Glad to hear from experience. I think your right. In addition, I think in newer models around the bankruptcy time they moved the release up higher from the weld as well, at least it looks kind of like that from pictures. I know for me it is probably a mix of pretty rarely moving my seat and that I asked the guy at the shop that welded it to lay it on pretty good that has kept it from cracking again. I'm a little bigger at 200 lbs, but I'm not a hucker, so since the weld the thing has probably seen 20% XC and 80% commute riding of the near 3,000 miles I've put on it since having it welded. I'm sure that has probably helped as well. I hope to keep this thing for many more years as it really is the best bike I've ever owned.

    BTW, if there is anyone out there with a cracked LE or Race frame that is thinking of throwing it out, send it my way, I'll take care of it for you
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  199. #199
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    Hi everyone,

    I have a 2001 iDrive 5.0 (flat black/grey) that I bought new. It is bone stock. My son and I are now starting to ride more so I want to get lighten up my rig. What are the best upgrades to start with? Are disk brakes worth the cost, new forks/shocks, if so, what models are good? If anyone can provide a parts list that would be great!

  200. #200
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    Upgrade when it breaks. Then buy the best you can afford and judge appropriate.

    Now a more technical question. I've serviced the SID rear shock on the XCR 3000 and a few impressions : Damn that thing runs smooth for a 12 years old shock. The psi required for the right SAG was 165, but I'm only about 120... SAG was set to 15-20%. Then I guess I should set the negative pressure to allow a quick compression and a slower rebound ? So the i-drive soak up quick and don't kick you back ? Negative air is set at 180 psi right now, feels good but didn't had the chance to actually ride the bike yet. Might be able to do so in less than a month, maybe days if weather keep on getting better.

    Rawww ! Love the i-drive !
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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